Bernina 740 / 741 / 742 Owner's Manual
Contents
1. aada sagesse BERNINA GEGAUF LTD BERNINA SEWING MACHINE FACTORY STECKBORN Switzerland Terms of Guarantee We engage ourselves to repair free of charge any defects dueto faulty material and or workmanship arising during five 5 years in the machine and during two 2 years in the motor of the Bernina Model 740 741 or 742 sewing machine supplied by us All other claims are excluded from this guarantee whieh is valid only towards the first buyer of the machine This guarantee becomes valid on the day of the delivery of the machine A buyer wishing to claim under the guarantee should return the machine to the Bernina representative next to his domicile Transport char ges as well as any damage caused by faulty packing are at buyer s expense The guarantee does not cover normal wear and tear nor any damage resulting therefrom such as cable breaking burning out of electric bulb 5 0 This guarantee does not apply If the buyer does not treat the machine in the Fight way as indicated in the instructions for use if the machine is not properly cleaned and lubricated nor in the right way if third persons not appointed by us are allowed to effect alterations and or repairs Damages doe to faulty manipulations are not covered by this guarantee The guarantee is only valid if high grade sewing machine ofl and needles of the system no 130 are used RNINA SEWING MACHINE FACTORY STECKBORN Switzer2. ection of cloth feed during first operatio Direction of cloth feed a Examples with two needle hemstitch during second operation gt oat ring initials There are two methods of embroi 1 Embroidering initials with feed dog lowered and guiding the embroidery frame by hand 2 Embroidering with the feed dog using the auto matic satin stitch control executed by the ma chine In both cases some practise will be found indispe sable An embroidery frame is always to be used wherein the fabrie is stretched Only quite hard and stiff cloths will permit to work wit embroidery frame With method no 1 please observe the following ad justments a Insert a needle no 70 According to the fineness of the fabric correspondingly thinner needle will be employed b Insert the wool darning presser foot wer dog feed d Thread the sewing machine For the upper thread use embroidery yarn no 100 f i DMC no 100 For the under thread use embroidery yarn no 100 Place material into embroidery frame in s manner that the Initials designed come to lie right in the centre of sald frame 1 Adjust the width according to the size of th Then stitch length is s position intended initials almost upon zero After having placed the embroidery frame under the needle the bottom thread should be brought up Lower presser foot Start sewing machine and keep
3. TAT and 742 have been equipped with feet easily as electrica n no screwdriver being needed and a reliable stability guaranteed a How to remove the presser foot soe fig 22 The presser bar with presser foot attached means of the lifting le e head Now inues under the se the cl d at the back of mping lever 46 OU ping cam 48 of p r foot 49 far enough for the hook 47 of said elamp lever 45 to release the clamping cam 48 entirely Now resser foot will drop automatically or with very little assistance from the presser bar so tha When replacing the presser foot push and fix it with foot firmly onto the presser bar cone he aid of the ver 46 The plain stitch For plain stitching adjust the sewing machine 1 Raise thread lever to it position 2 Insert zigzag foot but if to sew qu lot of visable 3 Thread through t the rom front to Then draw 5 Unserew stitch regulating device 24 the a ped as a turnable the stitch length eas adjusted by turning same in oF ou the stitch length device on the wished for n Set zigzag kno ch a way that Make sure that th Forward and backward sewing and adjustment of different stitch lenghts titch regulating ward forming by the way long or short stitches If the stiteh regulating lever 24 is pushed down until the marked line is j
4. the zipper must n to the left see The stitching of the right side be performed with needle positi fig 38 Layer of fabrie aber zero on hus a h w Zigzag sewing esult When g the tme x t will n Zigzag sewing with service by hand n 4 the pointer me h At the r TE the b h in egulated v n n ate your eko ing e f the nee on t e ch w Whe how wil Gai in a straight line at the right edie of the adjusted Gran width see fig 36b needle position to the right Thus the different zigzag stitch widths are only to be seen on the left side of the seam On the other hand if the arrow points to the left the piereing of the needle will be in a straight line only at the left edge of the adjusted zigzag width see fix 36c needle position to the left Most zigrag sewing work is done with the zigzag stitch adjusted in central position while the sewing machine needle is generally set to its left position when making buttonholes sewing on buttons and producing ornamental stitches For other ornamental stitches often the right zigzag position is used so metimes also by means of combining with the pre viously mentioned two needle positions Zigzag sewing Never use 6 ply threads but only 2 or For zigzag sewing adjust the sewing machine as follows 1 Raise thread lever 7 to its uppermost position 2 Insert zigzag foot not to be mistaken for the zigz
5. Sight hole for tension control Flap plate covering spooling device Handwheel release ta rE Plain stitch zigzag and buttonhole sewing control knob Switeh button for buttonhole device Switch button for satin stitch stop Extension plate Regulation knob for adjusting closeness of stitches with buttonholes and satin stitch seams Stitch length regulating lever Peed retracting knob 16 Handwheel rel 26 Motor 27 V belt 28 Belt protecting plate 29 2 pole coupling p combined for cable to supply circuit and f foot 31 Date plate The Bernina Favorite sewing machines models 740 and 741 well as 742 are driven by a horizontal motor fixed at the back of the machine on the ba lance wheel side Drive is effected by means of a V belt acting directly onto the groove of the balance wheel The coupling plug 29 is of the 3 pole type The cable for the footstarter as well as the cable with plug for Junction to the electric supply circuit are both connected therewith A so called data or rating plate 81 giving particulars of the voltage and power of the motor is fixed on the casing Prior to connecting the flex to the mains make definitely sure that the voltage indicated on the rating plate i e the number of volts corres ponds to the mains voltage Said mains voltage is indicated on the current meter of your home Dot not rely on the number of volts indicated on plu
6. rie by 180 degrees and sew the way that the needle when the hole Geek e every sixth stitch pierces int already existing from the first needle In the m of the pattern just between the two orname ings there will be a normal seam with th h length 1 h width rom 3 40 3 5 2 Hemstitch sewing with the patented double needle Bernina zigzag and plain stitch sowing machines with transversely set shuttle zigzag stitch pl and zigzag presser foot the machine instead manner as when sewing pintucks see operating instruc tions As upper thread use f i DMC no 100 with lefthand twist As under thread use f i DMC no 50 with righthand twist With zigzag machines set the pon plain stitch lever at zero point or In both cases the stit adjusted upon 1 to 1 5 length regulation lever should be Direction of cioth food After having b thread lay the This will prod fig 89 such he under nder the nd make a straight ce hemstiteh see kn If a hemstitch known as a terri hematiteh must needle to touch the cloth when it is turned round be made second working operation will be needed that point Now the second seam can be made in th After having sewn the single hemstitch turn the same way but take care that the large needle always enters the prev ly p fabrie es allowing the point of the L
7. BERNINA Model 742 Zigzag Sewing M without automatic ornam ch device FR GEGAUF LTD BERNINA SEWING MACHINE FACTORY STECKBORN Switzerland lt Pa gt lt gt EO Table of contents Page Guarantee urr SO 1 Motor e 8 Bobbin case and bobbin 10 Spooling the under thread 10 Threading the under thread 12 Needle and thread eek 18 Threading the upper thread Cleaning and oiling ZZEE Plainstiteh erezi B Forward and backward sewing and adjust ment of different stitch lengths Darning The fellerfoot FRERE The hemmer The gathering foot The zipper foot Zigzag sewing Elastic sewing of knitted goods The tricot or elastic side seam Running on lace BRRRERE i Buttonboles with cord inlay Sewing buttonholes without us matic buttonhole device Darning with wool GEO Appliqu work Ornamental stitches hand operated Satin stitch control Automatic fancy stitches Applicable only to models 749 and 741 The ornament indicator Blindstitch sewing uu Pintucking a Hemstiteh sewing Embroidering Initials Eyelet embroidery broderie anglaise How to avoid machine trouble Normal accessories for model 740 Normal accessories for model 741 Normal accessories for model 742 7 amp
8. It e hinge nnect it he under t ect stiteh is obtained r than the one used for which more p he under thread upper thread Th e winding has to be performed the tw In order to prevent the whole machine from running needlessly when winding turn with your right hand handwheel release screw 16 as far as possible towards you and at wheel 15 firmly wi ame time holding the hand Place the bobbin 34 ont ft truding from the hinged takes place as follows Fi the reel round the winder pre that the thread thread guide bolt the thread should w bobbin Now push lever 33 ag it geta enga Now the 1 he thread from and from there to thread bobbin din clockwise Then the motor e the knes n be start er respectively on the pedal starter the ism being still at rest Operate the machine until the bobbin is filled whereupon the winder will stop automatically After the fi taken off lever 37 with winder pretension device cover 14 can artine p hand wheel release screw 16 once more 4 bobbin has been should be turned be returned to its u Inserting the bobbin into the bobbin case and threading the under thread When replacing bobbin into bobbin case make sure that bobbin turns in direction of arrow when thread is pulled After having inserted the bobbin into bob bin case pass thread through slot 40 b
9. let the needle in the left stiteh and turn embroidery frame into the novel direction In that case you must not sew over the already finished edge but leave a gap thus producing a break in the outlines this will be necessary for shaping many letters of the alphabet In many cases the letters cannot be stitched in one single go If brakes are necessary a few small stitches with stitch width zero should bbe made at the end of every finished edge in order to secure the seam but when you begin stitching RIDE a novel edge this has to be done with the same width of edge like the first time until the initial will be finished Various and effective results can be obtained by means of stitching another seam along the outlines of a letter but with a narrower stitch Eventually this can be made with yarn of a different colour oversewn by means of an inlay thread as has been illustrated in Fig Ma BF Embroidery nen 1 Set needle stiteh to left position by turning grip 17 see fig 2 to the left 2 Lower feed de 25 see fig 2 by turning reversible knob to darning symbol 3 The normal stitch plate must be changed against the eyelet embroidery stitch plate which is equipped with exchungeable slides provided with guide journals whereby also the special embroidery presser foot must ren be inserted Position of slide when executing eyelet embroideries Always use the embroidery frame We recom mend
10. 58 06 11 00 53 06 08 00 53 06 1 8 00 58 06 15 00 58 06 46 00 54 12 05 00 53 06 48 00 63 06 18 01 58 06 29 01 58 06 50 00 53 06 20 00 1 embroidery ring 1 connecting cable to the mains 1 inatruction book Available againat extra charg 1 rolling and scalloping hemmer combined 1 broad hemmer 1 felling presser foot 1 edger with quilting guide 1 gathering presser foot 1 darning ring for stockings 1 narrow hemmer 1 special buttonhole presser foot 1 wool darning presser foot 1 attachment for general standard presser feet normally to be found in the trade Pintucking equipment Eyelet embroidery equipment Knee control lever complete 1 presser font for sewing on buttons Part no 64003001 84003101 113100 08 64 09 00 1802 11 34 00 3700 067000 1087100 6100 53113200 6011 33 00 63111200 154 12 01 00 Normal accessories for model 742 On the sewing machine 1 Extension plate with plug socket for machines with pedal starting device 1 Extension plate with arrangement for horizontal machines In sewing kit 1 zigzag presser foot 1 embroidery presser foot 1 special buttonhole presser foot 1 buttonhole knife 1 wooden support 1 darning presser foot 1 small darning plate 6 bobbins one of them being on machine 1 small screwdriver 1 special screwdriver 1 oiler 1 package of assorted needles of the 180 system 1 embroidery ring 53111000 54 12 05 00 58 06 48 01 53 0
11. it anew a few stitches before the righthand edge has become as Jong as the leefthand one and set the needle up again see fig 53 4 Sewing the second end stitches Awain set the zigzag lever 18 to the stop After a few stitehes have been sewn stop the machine once more und set the needle up as you did before see fig 59 mest 5 Sewing the fastening threads For sewing the fastening threads pull the zigzag lever 18 which is still against stop II towards the front then push it entirely to the right passing thereby over stop I see fig 60 In this position the sewing machine sews now the plain stitch in order to make fastening threads When stitching these securing threads it is recom mended to hold the fabrie slightly back For the next buttonhole zigzag lever 18 and the other necessary levers should be adjusted as follows 1 Set zigzag lever 18 once more against stop 1 2 Turn lever 17 to the left until the white lines of the levers 17 and 18 are facing each other 1 ree 3 Push the stitch length regulating lever 24 upwards as far as possible until it touches the stop Thus the sewing machine is again correctly adjusted for buttonhole sewing and the handling of zigzag lever 18 is once more effected as stated under The step by step sewing of the buttonhole Sewing the buttonhole in one single operation To the contrary of the just described method the butt
12. not n a sewing machi ans of the adjusting disk 9 t tension can b poses if any If the marked line is moving behind sight hole 10 to the right the thread tension will be reinforced whereas if said marke moves to the left the tension will be weaker By m 15 le To lower the feed dog fis 16 is set when the m Correct norn marked line is right above the fixed marked line feces py certain sewing purposes and mainly for darn he feed dog should always be lowered Below nou on the right side of the sew hine a control eare e 4 knob ded by moans of which the feed dog eba be started the sador thros can be bro at of action or set ready for sew should be drawn up With thumb and forefinger of eta S the right of sald knob 28 are Be th RS ond o tae nase Tital ioni llustrating the actual position i e to the right for ing it slack from hand to needle Now turn hand E dde sewing towards you unt wheel with one single revoluti protruding from the eye of the needle the thread causes ad lever to ascend approximately t highest Presently draw a little bit the end of the ni read whereby the unde a will come through the stitch hole towards abov Tighten darning hem ds under the p r and under thread slightly and pas Thread cutter The pressure foot hold device on the Bernina sewing machines is sign ed in such a way
13. stop and be firmly clamped by the needle holder screw Correct needle and thread selection System 130 needles should be used exclusively on the Bernina Favorite model 740 and model 741 as also model 742 In order to obtain good results us only first class need also high grade thread First select the thread suitable for the intended work and then the needle to accommodate the thread con sulting Lo this intent the table hereafter Needle and Threa The relation between needle and thread is correct the thread when pl needle groov lls this latter well and ean be freely moved to and fro ved in the lon For sewing the usual needle sizes are no 80 90 and 100 whereas for darning use needles of the six 0 and 80 and thread table 80 100 Guran 50 80 50 70 30 40 E 4050 30 40 100 0 Thread suitable for sewing and arning h sewing No 60 00 three and degi For plain s unglazed darning No 50 80 two ply For zigzag sewing No 60 80 three ply only For and 40 two ply 13 Lett and right hand twisted thread For darning left hand twisted thread should only be used as upper thread The under thread may be right or left hand twisted The twist of the thread be determined as shown in fig 10 With both hands take hold of a thread end and with the thumb turn thread towards you Left hand twisted thread will tighten s
14. that This small gadget helps time expecially scissors are not ely at hand 16 leaning and Oiling To clean the machine To Insert the cover plate move It upwa tion of the nd Introduce the during sewing particularly aroi b nto the rovide wetween stitch plate and at its mentally aff where the stitch pl To oil the machine The sewing machine should ren be oiled frequently but never too liberally A few drops of oil will be sufficient to keep he machine running freely Oil in excess will drain off unused and may only soil the f Always oil your machine be fore sewing and not after wards Use clear oll which is free from resin and acid such all the Ber your sewing machine the oil o jam dries up and be s tacky The figures 18 and 20 show the oiling points indieated by a series of black lines By means of opening the slide on the base plate you will have access to the shuttle of which the race should be oiled frequently but only lightly at the point indicated by an arrow see fig 18 18 The shuttle The Bernin ing from wrong man 20 Plain stitching with standard and special presser foet Exchanging the presser teet The di ng work sity of frequent changes of the var ferent tasks of sewi the this reason the els 7 Bernina sewing machines feet which can be connecte
15. when using the rolling hem mer The zigzag stitch bridges the enti seam Tight top thread tension and lan itch length produce the scalloped ef hem is employed mainly knitted linen g Introduce a soft cord in the guide hole of the embroidering foot which is marked by one red line nd stiteh or embroider over with zi Use mercerized thread 50 2 or 60 2 ptained with th our thread coloured cord or a A great variety of type of work number said effect jacent seams 2 8 0 will still enhane ght soft fabrics such as Batiste Georget cred using the em ring foot and working with stitch length upon 4 When ruffling rather stiff fabrics such as Poplin Reps or Wool 2 4 0 p introduzed into the gu foot and stitched onto the unde fab of 1 5 with a zigzag stitch with a w itch length of from 1 5 to as wi whereupon both rows or the arn are shoved together when needed m ruffle If the ruffled part is combined wit ght one this seam shou be sewn in betwee wo raffled AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE SEWING There are three different kinds of buttonhates a The ordinary butt b The buttonhole with cord inlay The raised buttonhole The ordinary buttonhole This is sewn with normal u a special threading of the bobbin case The sewing of the ole is performe arning the cloth round This can be made either step by step th
16. winding strips of cloth around ist outer ring in order to obtain a better tension of the fabrie to be embroidered and to prevent its being damaged Only after having clamped the fabric the holes should be punched with the piercers Embroider within the Supplied embroidery frame ren Position of slide for circular ext oideries It will be of advantage to design the holes pre viously on the fabric Then place the material un der the eyelet embroidery presser foot so that the guide journal of the slide should come to lie in the hole As has been mentioned already heretofore the needle stitch should be set to left position Far both upper and bottom embroidery thread no 60 80 two phy should be used which will give best results in even sewing around the holes For eyelet embroidery the thread tension is of ut most importance The under thread tension should be sligthly stronger than that of the top thread so that the thread knots should only show themselves on the lower face of the fabric The slide in the embroidery plate should be posi tioned in such a way that the needle when making a righthand atiteh enters in the recess of the guide journal exactly beyond the edge of the material This setting has to be changed according to stitch width and should therefore be repeated every time Then allow the sewing machine to operate at regu lar speed and turn the embroidery ring at the same time three o
17. 6 08 00 53061802 53062901 53 06 82 03 53 06 15 00 53 06 11 00 53 06 13 00 5306 20 00 5306 4401 53 06 46 00 58 06 50 00 1 connecting cable to the mains 1 instruction book Available against extra charge 1 darning ring for stockings 1 narrow hemmer 1 broad hemmer 1 special buttonbole presser foot 1 wool darning presser foot 1 blindetiteh presser foot 1 edger with quilting guide 1 rolling and scalloping hemmer combined marked with two red lines 1 felling presser foot 1 presser foot for sewing on buttons marked with 2 black lines 1 standard presser foot for plain stitching 1 gathering presser foot 1 attachment for general standard presser feet normally to be found in the trade Pintucking equipment Eyelet embroidery equipment Knee control lever complete FR GEGAUF LTD BERNINA SEWING MACHINE FACTORY itzerland STECKBORN
18. 8 see fig 1 and 51 remains in its po sition as with gez sewing 3 The needle displacement lever ix set to left posi by turning lever 17 completely to the left see fig 36 In he white marking 4 Set zigzag pointer 18 on 1 5 to 1 7 When sewing a buttonhole in knitted material select stitch width 2 5 Set stiteh length regulating lever 24 so that it comes to lie a little bit below the zero mark to the left of the stitch length scale plate This can only be done if the grip of the said stitch length regu lating lever 24 is not fully screwed in 6 Set drop feed reversing knob 25 see fig 1 on sewing symbol by turning it to the right T Now sew the first edge to the Lt length of the desired buttonhole ss The last needle stitch of the fi ven nished edge must be to the right whereby the needle should be al lowed to remain inserted only rai to 4 in the fabrie 8 Raise buttonhole presser foot and turn cloth by 180 degrees in clock wise direction Then lower presser foot again and allow the needle to enter the fabric towards the left il ES E Again here the needle should pene trate into the material only with the point Set zigzag lever 18 to few end atitehes for the bar In doing pull the fabric lightly to wards SO feed Last needle stitch should be 5 and sew to the left Allow needle to pene the fabric only with the Set zigzag knob pointer 18 o
19. 9 01 53 06 11 00 53 06 13 00 53 06 46 00 53 06 20 00 53 06 44 01 53 06 50 00 1 pintuck needle of 1 embroidery ring 1 connecting cable to the mains 1 instroction book Available against extra charge darning ring for stockings narrow hammer special buttonhole presser foot wool darning presser foot rolling and scalloping hemmer combined marked with 2red lines felling foot xthering presser foot presser foot for sewing on buttons marked with 2 black lines 1 standard presser foot for pinin stitching attachment for general standard presser feet normally to be found in trade Pintucking equipment Eyelet embroidery equipment Knee control lever complete 16 Part no 640030 01 640031 01 6411 0800 53 06 08 04 53 16 09 00 58 06 18 02 53 06 82 08 53 11 34 00 5311 37 00 5406 70 00 3408 71 00 5407 61 00 60 11 33 00 53 11 32 00 53111200 Normal accessories for model 741 On the sewing machine 1 Extension plate with plug socket for machines with pedal starting device 1 Extension plate for horizontal machines In sewing kitz zigzag presser foot embroidery presser foot special buttonhole presser foot blindstitch presser foot buttonhole knife wooden support darning presser foot small darning plate bobbins one of them being on machine special screwdriver small arewdriver oiler package of assorted needles of the 180 system GSP ae et 54 12 01 00 53111000
20. ag embroidery foot which has ita lower sur face hollow ground When raised leave zigzag foot in this position Thread upper and under thread and place both threads under and to the back of zigzag presser foot 4 Turn knob 25 to the right the symbol being set on sewing ee 5 Adjust stitch length regulator 24 onto the wished for stitch length 6 Fix slide on table 7 Lower zigzag presser foot Proceeding from stitch length zero to four and with a stitch width equally from zero to four the simple zigzag seams will appear with central needle position us shown hereunder Of course all intermediate sizes Pr define frum pre Sarri Te Ere tic Sewing of Knitted Goods for basting tricot and r do it with basting WM The thinnest area of material should be placed always under and to the left of preaser foot If the tricot seam is not regular test whether the needle is accurately set b size of thread does really correspond with size of needle oF not If the zigzag seam seems to be not clastic enough it will just be necessary to adjust a larger width and a shorter stitch length in order to obtain better elasticity of the seam Mending tricot and other knitted goods by means of elastic seams A fresh piece of tricot fabric is placed on top of the damaged area in the di rection of the loops and basted by hand ising darning thread to this intent Stitch a zigzag seam along patchwork e
21. d f threads over the first line of stit her begin a bit out af already stitch threads This second layer shoul a bit more apart Darning stockings The durning apparatus is available only aga For darning stockings the darning appar he stocking led in auch a way that the damaged area comes to lle in the middle of the apparat Now place the stretched stocking under the press foot for darning and work a simple plain stitch ro around the damaged area This stitching will prevent laddering fig Continue by stitching from fro direction of the loops one row along the o fig 256 The darning rows should be Inid about 3 u to Pei beyon edge of the damaged area This should be done with lines of unequal lengths After the ati darning appa and begin with the coverin stitches In order t visible work hing has been completed turn us round about by one quarter turn of ese covering lines lesa make hem in the direction of the loops beginning outside of the farthest first li fig 25e These covering lines of different should run parallel with the loops Finally fill in the small spaces remaining in the darning area properly speaking working lines of stitches in the same dire tion before but these li ould not reach beyond the edge of the former hole see fig 26d the THE FELLERFOOT In order to connect two pieces of materia
22. dge about the depth of presser foot towards inside Adjustment of machine Zigzag width upon 2 4 Stitch length upon 1 ve Tricot seams With ordinary tricot it seams advisable to make a fold with all seams and then only stitch across Graz width upon 25 or3 Stitch Jength upon 15 The tricot or elastic side seam Cut off projecting edge at about 4 Now stitch another seam distance from seam accross the new edge of cloth winding round Zigzag width from 3 tt Zigzag width upon 15 Stiteh length from 15 Stitch length upon 1 Sewing on lace Roll Hemmer use short stitch lengths stitch widths as a rule length regulating lever is set at rom 1 to 2 Place ewn approxi de edge in order to facilita Now attach the then sewing on edge project e with zig ff the material aid zigzag seam The ro zed by two red lines s similar in shape to nary hemmer The nce is th The rolling hen inary hemmer foot The knob 18 wee fig 1 approximately 3 or 4 ms are used part edging fine material ing hemmer charac m its sha only diffe its stitch h roum Jongated so that 2 zag seams can be sewn with it B if the ordi the or Rolled ularly for The scalloped hem For scalloped hems use the mer too The mater rolling hem tricot serted in the E s the case
23. e wing machine being after each operation r in one working process i e without interrupting jer thread tension with the various working stag to learn the sewing of bi p by s time you will be able to sew the entire button hole in one single working process as well Thr f the under thread An increased tension of the unde thread produces still better results when sewing buttonholes Ti this higher bottom thread tension without changing the lower tes itself which is correctly set normal sewing see fig 50 a h has been drilled through the finge the bobbin g the bobb explained on page se For normal se ded as case thre For sewing buttonholes the machine should be adjusted as follows 1 Insert buttonhole presser foot 2 Feed drop knob 25 see fig 1 must stand on symbol sewing 3 Draw zigag knob grip lever 18 downwards so that it ean work together with the fixed stops on sewing machine stand 4 To engage the buttonhole device proceed ax ex plained hereafter Draw the upper lever 19 whieh is marked with a buttonhole symbol with a light movement towards you and then upwards Now let it go the buttonhole device is now engaged in its working position To disengage the buttonhole device proceed in the reverse onder 5 The stitch length adjusting lever 22 is pushed up wards as far as possible 6 After the stop has been brought into
24. e should always be in front i on the side where the machine has to be thres ded b the needle is the correct size for the thread used for darning of fine fabrics take needle size no 70 and for other sewing work needle size 80 or no 90 As regards sizes of needles with cor responding threads see page 13 The machine is properly cleaned Remove free arm cover plate and clean all lint thereunder Then cleanse feed dog with brush d shuttle is properly cleaned with but a few drops of oll soe fig 18 no thread ends are stuck between the thread tension dises 1 no thread ends are jammed under the bobbin ease tension spring the sewing machine can easily be started with the handhweel Note Make it a rule always to raise thread take up lever to its upmost position it will help to avoid a lot of machine troubles 2 The causes of upper thread breaking may be the following The use of badly polished needles of inferior quality Needles should always be purehased at a Bernina shop b Needle incorrectly set Remember that long groove must always be in front Needle is blunt or bent d The relation ebtween size of thread and needle is not o k see table on page 13 Upper tension thread is too tight 1 Thread of bad quality full of knots Thread dried out by too long storage Thread should never be stored in heated rooms If the machine has been in use for a fairly lon
25. eans of lever 13 see fig 1 and 72 Set lever 12 on blindstiteh cam see no 1 d Set needle into right position of stitch Set zigzag knob 18 to a atitch width between 2 and 3 according to the thickness of the material to be sewn f Set stitch length regulation lever 24 on a stitch length of 2 3 or 4 depending on the kind of cloth to be sewn Set feed dog reversible knob 25 on sewing symbol The blindstitching itself is made exactly as has been described under section 1 i prak The pintucking device is only delivered lead dog extra chang jouble for ks of appr ely Yau and ekers with 7 groc intuek e pintuc vice for cord inla Ea When preparing the sewing machine for pintucking proceed as foll 1 Set necdle to centre position in stitch hole by a sting grip 17 see fig 1 to the mi 5 itch lever 18 see fig 1 upon z move standard nee duce a double needle di s8 4 Throsd tension regulator 35 Spool pin 7 Thread take up lever 44 Thread gulde slit 8 Thread tension 45 Necdle holder eyelet s 100 Additional tension Threading the two upper threads To thread the two upper threads pintucking proceed sewing mach see fig 81 Place the two reels read onto the two pins 35 of the the back of the top of the machine the thread of the front reel through pre n 43 equally at the back of machine from the slit 44 running across top arm and draw the th
26. elow tension spring and allow it to come out at the end of tension spring 42 The screw 38 fixes the thread tension spring whereas screw 39 regulates said tension see fig 8 Replacing bobbin case with bobbin into shuttle Insertion of bobbin case is possible only when the thread level is approximately in its uppermost po sition The bobbin case is held by the opened bizk same as when removing it see fig 5 Thum wrefinger of the left hand hold the open hinged latch A in such a way that the opening of the bobbin case points upward and can enter the recess in the shuttle race cover Then place the bobbin case on the pin of the bobbin case finger until it strikes the bottom of the shuttle Now release latch and make sure that the bobbin case is properly closed so that it cannot fall out any more Long groove facing you D Setting the needle Use only system 180 needles Needles with blunt points or bent needles should never be employed Turn handwheel 15 towards you until the needle bar fo at ite highest Hold nedle between thumb and forefinger of the left hand so that the long groove faces you The flat tened end of the needle shank must therefore be a the rear Now loosen the needle holder screw b turning it to the left and insert the needle until it strikes above Then retighten needle holder serew by turning it to the right It is important that the needle should be pushed right up to the needle
27. ess of the fabric d Set stitch length regulati length 4 r to stitch Set feed dog reversible knob on sewing symbo 55 pen Biindstiteh presser foot No 680682 03 Position of nende stitch to the lett Folded upper layer of cloth Needle plate Material stop and guide Position of needle stitch to the right After having threaded the sewing machine put the lower flat piece of cloth underneath the blindstiteh presser foot then place the upper piece of cloth on top and fold it in such a way that it al ways touches the elastic guide Now lower the blindstitch presser foot and start sewing The zigzag stitch width should be adjusted in such a way on the zigzag button 18 that in its left deflection the needle is stitching through the middle of the folded piece of cloth which will make the seam invisible on the upper piece of material when flattened Said stitch width is between 2 and 3 depending on the thickness of the cloth used 2 Adjustment of sewing machine for working with the blindstitch cam Whereas when blindstitehing with the normal zigzag stitch the folded piece of cloth is pierced after every second stitch when employing the blindstitch eam there are five straight plain stitches between each piercing of the folded piece of material Thus the machine should be adjusted as explained hereunder Attach blindstiteh presser foot b Connect automatic device backwards by m
28. fig 62 ree The raised buttonhole This kind of a buttonhole is sewn with a slack lower tension and a strong upper thread tension The upper thread tension should be so strong that the bottom thread appears in a straight line on the upper side of the fabrie used For raised buttonholes the upper thread should ab solutely be unglazed 8 ply no 40 thread whereas a very thin thread will be necessary for the bobbin f i no 60 2 Adjusting the sewing machine from automatic buttonhole sewing to zigzag or straight plain stitch The grip lever of the pointer knob 18 see fig 51 is pushed upwards Now the lever of zigzag knob 18 can be swivelled at will from zero to four over the stops I and Lever 17 is now swivelled into up right position causing the needle to pierce into centre of stitch hole with zero stitch width Grip lever 19 with its buttonhole symbol is drawn to the front and pushed into its sowest position Never put the machine away before having changed offer from buttonhole adjustment to zigzag or straight plain sewing in order to have the machine ready for sewing these kinds of works when using it another day Sewing buttonholes without using the automatic buttonhole device Buttonholes can also be sewn without employing the automatic buttonhole device In such cases make the following adjustments 1 Insert buttonhole presser foot marked with three black lines on its shaft 2 The lever 1
29. g time thread breaking may have a cause only competent sewing machine mechanic can deal with Stiteh place hole has been damaged by the needle and requires re polishing ask for the specialist Shuttle point is damaged 3 Cause of under thread breaking be Under thread tension too tight b Under thread badly wound on bobbin Bobbin is deformed and jams in the bobbin case d Stitch plate hole has been damaged by the needle and requires re polishing Call for skilled se wing machine mechanic 4 Missing stitches be caused by a using unsuitable needles of other make Always employ needles of system 130 b needle is bent needle not correctly set Long groove must al ways be exactly in front When inserting needle push it up as far as it will go d needle of inferior quality or badly polished e size of needle is not fit for size of throad or vice versa 5 Needle breaking may have the following reasons Needle holder screw is not securely tightened b Upper thread tension is too tight The material has been pulled from under the presser foot towards the front after having fi nished with the sewing work Thereby the needle got bent Always remove the cloth from the machine by pulling it back from under the presser foot base d Size of needle and size of thread are not in cor rect relation together Often the needle is too thin for to thick yarn w
30. gs and socketa Care of the motor a Lubrication The motor has friction bearings by means of which a nearly silent running can be obtained The bearings are automatically lubricated so that they need service at all by Carbon brushes From time to time the length of the carbon brushes should be seriously controlled In order to accomplish this task the upper and lower brush support plates situated at the front side of the motor must be unscrewed and the carbon brushes removed If these carbon brushes are not removed in due time with a minimum length of Vs they will damage the collee tor and soon the motor no more be used When reinserting the carbon brushes please take care that the ground rounding which must match with the rounding of the collector is not introduced the wrong way The sewing light The lamp is mounted in the swivelling head cover to enable an even distribution of light over the en tire sewing area completely free from any glare It is switched on and off by pressing the light button 6 The bulb can be changed as is usual currently with all lamps Turn it to the left to remove and to the right to insert Bobbin Case and Bobbin Removal of bobbin case Turn the handwheel until the thread lever 7 pproxim highest position ithdraw be h which f the bobbin Spooling the under thread The winding of the bobbin bear e Bernin g machines
31. he feed towards the presser foot be always sufficient by means of very lightly pushing the tricot on both sides of presser foot 7 The machine operates too slowly The motor does not work correctly it should be examined by skilled mechanic Probable cause Tension of drive belt may be too tight Ask the expert b The sewing machine has been idle for a fairly long time in a moistened room In such a ease it General notice Notes of Bernina Representative regarding instructions home calls and eventual warranty work Part 64 00 0 01 640081 01 641131 00 53 060204 53 16 09 00 53 06 08 00 58 06 15 00 53 06 82 03 63 06 18 01 58 11 34 00 53113700 06 70 00 54 0671 00 54 07 61 00 53112200 60113300 58 111200 Normal accessories for model 740 On the sewing machine 1 Extension plate with plug socket for machines with pedal starting device 1 Extension plate for horizontal machines In sewing kit 1 zigzag presser foot 1 embroidery foot marked with 1 red line 1 broad hemmer 1 edger with quilting guide 1 blindstiteh presser foot 1 buttonhole presser foot 1 buttonhole knife 1 wooden support 1 darning presser foot 1 small darning plate 6 bobbins one of which being on machine 1 small serewdriver 1 special svrewdriver 1 oiler 1 package of assorted needles of the 130 system 54 12 01 00 11 10 00 54120500 53 06 48 01 53 06 18 02 53 06 2
32. hereby the needle be comes bent of course Use of thread of inferior quality showing knots or unevenly twisted n f During sewing never pull the cloth too strongly towards the back 6 Faulty seams A faulty uneven seam results 1 if there are thread ends remaining between the thread tension dises 2 if there are thread ends under the bobbin case tension spring 3 if the bobbin is deformed and jams in the bobbin case the thread ix not always evenly thick in all ite length 5 if the shuttle is not regularly oiled b When sewing tricot or other k sure of the following items 1 tricot should always be basted with darning thread never with basting thread 2 use perfect needles of size no 70 or no 80 3 the thin aren of the fabrie should always be placed to the left side of the presser foot 4 sizes of needles and thread must always per fectly correspond ed goods make 5 if the zigzag stitch seems not to be elastic enough adjust for a larger width and a shor ter stitch length in order to increase the elasticity of the seam Disagreeably puckered fabric In most cases the cause of puckering Is too tight tension well on the upper as on the under thread When sewing tricot and other knitted goods the material must never be pulled to the back with the hands otherwise it will get puckered of course Care should be taken that when se wing tricot or the like t
33. it running smoothly at a fair speed thus get ting the best results Guide the embroidery frame with both hands slowly and steadily along the de signed initials but without turning same After some practising the initials can be embroidered also without using the wool darning presser foot Fig 93 illustrates a few examples of embroidered initials With the method no 2 the same settings should be made as described here for the first one only with the following exception r foot instead of t b instead of lowering the feed dog this device must remain in sewing position a insert the embroidery pre the wo presser fo darni adjust fabrie speed on a small stitch length which can easily be made with the aid of the satin stitch control d adjust stitch width according to size of initial to be embroidered Here too the initial should be designed onto the fabric after having spanned the cloth into the frame the initial should come to lie right in the centre of the embroidery frame i e just under the needle As illustrated in fig 94 begin to sew edge and fter completion having reached the top of the initial stop sewing machine leave the needle stuck in the fabric with stitch to the right and turn the embroidery frame round the needle until the di rection towards edge B is nttained Now you will be able to sew edge B When swivel ling anew after having reached the required length
34. l lin gents shirts a s o by means of a firm seam the fellerfoot is used whereby the felled seam is ob tained in two different operati 1st operation see fig 27 Arrange the fabric sections to be joined together on top of each other in such a manner that the bottom section slightly projects from the top one and pass Hemmer al to be g t by me emain quite e pre ial h ng mach foot lever erial back al Adjust the sewing machine upon plain stitch sewing and introduce the edger instead of the standard preaser foot The edger with its stitch hole farthest to the right of foot is specially suited for edge stitching For this purpose the edge stiteher is employed without the quilting guide The edger with quilting guide is mostly used for quilting works see fig 1 when the distance of the guide from the needle determines the width between the rows of stitches Adjust correspondingly and when sewing guide the fabric in such a way that the quilting guide runs always within the precedent seam In such a way all the seams the cross seams included are quite parallel one with respect to the others n THE ZIPPER FOOT Available only against extra charge When inserting zippers be sure that for the stitching of the left side of the zipper the needle position to the right must be used see fig 34 Thus knob 17 must be set to the right see fi
35. land FR GEGAUF LTD Fig 1 hereunder sbows Bern sewing machine with orn tions are marked thereon worite sewing machine model 740 with horizontal motor It is zigzag device The controls referred to in the operating instruc and identified as well 10 12 Base plate Necdie holder Thread Pace cover Light ewiteh Thread lever Thread tension and Unread guid Thread tension control Sight hole for tension control ight hole for ornamental stiteh indicator control dere gri 17 18 21 22 23 24 or right Plain stitch zigzag and buttonhole sew nur Switch button for buttonbole devie Switeh button for satin stitch stop Plug socket for tight Extension plate Regulation knob for adjusting d stitches with buttonho Stiteh length re lever Peed retracting knob The figure no 2 hereunder shows a Ber 741 sewing machine The con d to in the operating instruc marked thereon and identified In the opposite fig no 3 you will see Bernina sewing machine of model 742 whereon the controls referred to in the operating instructions are marked thereon and identified ax well So No um sw n Base plate Neede plate Needle holder Thread regulator Pace cover Light switch Thread lever Thread tension and thread guide Thread tension control plate 14 15 16 17 18
36. machine and passes this sight hole where it clearly be seen sce fig 77 Even when operating the machine at high speed this symbol will be observed when it passes through As soon as the front end of the decorative stitch is cutting the mark the sewing machine begins t stitch a new ornament When one half of the orna ment has passed the marked sight hole this means at half mament has been achieved With this marked sight ho vw possible to notice the moment when the machine is beginning to sew ornament This device will be of special impor ing ornaments of which only one tance when s single decoration has to be stitched and placed within a certain specified area It will also be of great value when changing an ornament altogether Blindstitch sewing ndstitch two pieces of cloth wh and sewn onto the lo the seams This kind of work is p with the blindstiteh presser foot see fig 78 which possesses an elastic cloth guide between the fingers on its base but otherwise identical with a normal presser foot Blindstiteh sewing can also be accomplished with the ordinary zigzag stiteh or by m doviee with built in blindatiteh cam 1 Setting of machine when sewing with ordinary zigzag stitch Attach blindstiteh presser foot fleet needle to right position Set zigzag kno itch width between according to the thickn
37. nce more to 1 5 or 1 7 and sew the somewhat shorter length than the first one Last needle stitch to the left cond edge over 11 Set zigzag knob 18 again at twice the edge width and sew the end stitches for the b Again pull the fabric a little bi the feed Last needle stitch to the left ebe bar back to shorten 2 Set zigzag knob 18 on zero on and sew a few fastening stitches again pulling the fabri lightly forwards towards you always in order to shorten the feed 13 Finally lay the work on the wooden support and eut the cloth between both edges by means of the buttonhole blade See fig 65 wi for d erdera Woollen socks are pulled over the free arm without using the darning ring for stockings Darning with wool is performed in two operations ines 1 The damaged area is covered with wool 2 The covering wool rows are sewn down Inthethree figures no 67 67b and 67e the working process when darning is clearly indicated Au it appears from fig 67a the wool is introduced in the slot of the presser foot whereby the thread is allowed to project over the rear edge of the presser foot by approximately Ga Now span the wool over the hole as is shown in fig 67b Start at the left hand top corner of the damaged rea and stretch the wool sideways i e from left to ight and vice versa by shifting the cloth accordingly to and fro At the end of each row the zigzag sti
38. onhole can easily be sewn in operation i e without stopping the sewing machine after the dif ferent working steps The buttonhole ix sewn in one single operation as described hereafter Having ad justed the sewing machine for buttonhole making and having preased zigzag lever 18 against stop I see fig 54 set the machine going and keep on holding zigzag lever 18 without the least interruption As soon as the wished move the t against s or length of the edge is igzag lever 18 with a vigorous TI see fig 57 only a few stitches are necessary for sewing the fastening ends move the lever 18 correspond g to the sewing speed so to say immediately once more to stop I sce fig 58 and press moveme and beeause said stop soon as the second r ge has reached the length of the firs except for a few stitches move the zigzag lever 18 towards stop II and since here too only a few stitches are required for the fastening of the second edge move the zigzag lever im in nediately quite to the right accordance with the sewing speed i e beyond I by drawing the zigzag lever 18 towards you i e to the front fig 59 and 60 Regulating the closeness of stitches The Bernina sewing machines vely 741 and 742 are vice by means of whic can be changed when sewing buttonho the satin stitch according to the material being stitched and the sewing thread pe
39. r four times around the guide journal In the same regular way in clockwise direction Finally set zigzag knob 18 see fig 2 upon zero position and secure the thread by a few stitches These binding stitches should be parallel to the em broidery stitches so that they will remain practi cally invisible When the slide of the stitch plate is reversed as has been shown in fig 97 the guide journal can be employed as a centre in sewing cireular embroi deries In doing the needle pierces through the long slit of the slide By changing the density of the stitches i e by va rying the speed of rotation of the embroidery ring during the stitching and using threads of different colours very attractive and multifarious patterns can be produced enhancing by the way the look of the eyelet embroideries As a rule kindly observe when executing eyelet em broidery works that the holes of the same size should always be finished successively that the slide need ot be changed too often w HOW TO AVOID MACHINE TROUBLE First of all we should like to give you some hints how machine troubles might be avoided then what may be their cause and finally how to remedy them 1 On principle In most cases troubles are resulting from faulty manipulations of the sewing machine However if other causes are presumed the machine should be examined whether 2 the needle has been correctly inserted The long groov
40. rated with the aid of fitted with seale num he stitch bered from According to the ki medium or stroni feed of the fabrie will diffe le edges The stronger and softer the material the more the f fabric to be stitched finer er ones or even tric when sewing bi favorit e dd be increased This change takes place by mning regulation knob 23 This regulating kn equipped with m uivalent to those of the fixed scale on the machine stand itself If number 1 is placed opposite the fixed seale it means that the smallest feed has been chosen for the buttonhole edge Turning said regulation knob to the left the numbers w her and the feed is thereby increased as regards the fabrie used for this operation be hi That means that hereby for every kind of fabric the corresponding closeness of stitches can be chosen will The same adjustment which has been chosen for making the edges of the buttonholes is valid too for ornamental stitch with the same kinds of fabric Buttonholes with cord inlay As inlay use thin cotton cord and place it as is shown in fig 63 on the nose at the back of the buttonhole presser foot and sew the buttonhole in the manner described hereabove The cord loop protruding beyond the back end of the finished buttonhole is tightened in such a way that the loop under the back fastening disappears Then the two thread ends are cut see
41. read ion dise down to thres n regulator 4 again through the back bore of thread take up lever 7 Then down again to needle holder eyelet 45 and finally from front to rear through the eye of left needle With the second thrend draw it through the right tension disc and foll still through additional tension 100 From there thread tension regulator 4 up to threa into the front slit of same Now down onze more to needle jet and finally through the eye of right needle joth threads should always run separately through thread tension 8 in order to produce finer pintucks proceed in the same manner but ing this hrough ean lever 7 and The pintucking A pintuek is created by the bottom thread which pulls both upper threads together so that the fabric bet ween the needles is raised and forms tuck or pintucks with inserted cord the insert is passed from the ball slipped on a thread reel pin of the accessory case through the groove in the up through the hole in the stitch plate between both teeth rows of the feed dog and guided away from operator below and to the back of the pintueking presser foot Ornamental seam with double needle employing one pintucking needle and the stan dard zigzag presser foot a parallel double decorative seam can be produced whereby it will be advanta ega to choose two threads of different colours When using a double needle with 1
42. tch will fasten the wool to the fabrie when direction of movement is changed Make sure that these rows are as close as possible together because later on no more wool will be used As soon as the damaged area will be entirely covered with wool the wool thread should be eut off at the darning presser foot Now fasten the wool rows with zigzag stitches across them as is shown in fig 67c by shifting the cloth forward and backward Zigzag stitch is employed to ensure that the mend remains fully elastic but care should be taken not to place the individual zigzag rows too closely together Applique Work SATIN STITCH CONTROL The adjustment of the right stitch length for decorative es and buttonholes is very easy on the Bernina se wing machines thanks to the patented satin stitch control Suppose the stitch length regulation lever is on no 2 snd the stitch length must be adjusted for sewing a button hole First he satin stitch control lever 20 is swivelled as d afterwards the stitch length ards until it stri Je upwards ver 24 is equally pushed u satin stitch control ust be brought into the d ack ngugement of the satin stitch con akes place by pressing the down whereby the normal state for the choice of the stitch length for and backward is again restored ard sewing This di s following the thickness of the yarn which has to be imployed for
43. the different works this stiteh length ought to be smaller or larger the stitch control for satin stitch isla ic axis By turning knob 23 to the left said stitch length will be increased following the numbers ated on said knob on which you will find the num bers from 1 to 5 The thicker the yarn to be used and the stronger the cloth to be worked the more the knob must be turned towards the left in the direction of the next higher number on ki ed to the fixed mark be adjusted in a way sms of uniform thickness can be achieved 28 The number is exactly oppos which wh the creation of decorative stitches w having to manipulate control whataoeve Just select the desired pattern he through the sewing ma with both Bernina sewing m e equipped with an for four different de s identical to that of model no 740 Reversal upon automatic ornamental stitch sewing The rever r aig m the alot in the atic ornamental stitch device ntrary push leve the machine for At the left of this reversible namental stitch selecting from graduated plate 1 bols of the twent Automatic Fancy Stitches yo joo which will eatch automatically remaining position When displacing the needle is position The stitch such way th the white line After threading th Pull lever 12 to the ri i
44. till more whereas right hand twisted thread will loosen It will be the best way to buy sewing and darning thread at the Bernina dealer s shop There you will be sure to get all the products suitable for your Bernina sewing machine Threading the upper thread fig 11 and 12 Place a reel of thread on one of the two spool pins 35 situsted at the back of the top arm From there lead thread through the pretension 43 equally placed st the back of arm then into slot running across top arm In its centre the double thread tension 8 is arranged The central tension disk is protruding a little bit from slot 44 When sewing with one thread only it does not matter whether the thread is drawn at the left or at the right of the central tension disk into the tension properly speaking At the front pass the thread down to thread regulator 4 Then up again through front bore of thread lever 7 down once more through needle holder eyelet 45 and eye of the needle itself from front make sure that thr finally throu to rear W lever 7 and needle are in th upmost position Thread tension fig 1 The Bernina sewing machines off vantage that tension mi he thre changed Only two marked lines are provided for trol When the fixed marked line on top arm and th m mobile part of thread tension device are set one above the other the perfect thread tension is attained With Bi graduated scale is
45. ts gelatin nt an be started exactly in t way as wi resistance will be felt and displa il the image nary sewing the ornamental stitch and hite mark of the When switching back to normal zigzag stitching lever are facing themselves then release said lever place switching lever 13 again in front position Stitch width upon no 4 The faney stitches of model no 741 are all marked Stitch Jength nearly upon zero ans of an asterisk A 1e 4 9 10 1 19 14 15 16 17 18 19 Stitch length upon Automatic decorative stitches with one single needle nearly zero to four A further variation is possible when combi ning Individual decora tive stitches during a Patterns combined with each other see fig 14 b m pat mbined ti see fig 75 Automatic decorative stitches with two needles fir thes are equally possible when sewing with rinciple the r than al Naturally ornamental stitehes made w modified by ch reads of two differe THE ORNAMENT INDICATOR The Bernina sewing machines of the models 740 and 741 have been equipped with a novelty the so called ornament indicator showing the actual posi tion of the ornament being stitehed At the front side of the arm to the right near the tension sight hole another sight hole 11 has been arranged which is filled with a mark Now when the mach sewing an ornament the decorative stitch symbol Is moving inside the
46. u or Ye needle distance an additional small zigzag motion can also be performed The needle deflection should however only be so large that neither needle fouls the hole on the stitch plate either on the left or on the right Therefore the zigzag knob 18 see fig 1 should only be moved very sligthly to the left starting from zero point vith P ch ne titch can be ob partie k ut also me tot h ds to b djustn Hemstitch sewing with the single hematitch needle on Bernina zigzag sewing machines For fine fabrics dy organza adjust zigzag lever to stitch width 2 and stitch length adjusting lever to 1 After having brought up the under thread lay the fabric under the presser foot and begin to sew in the well known manner The result will be a hemstitch as shown in fig 83 If suitable d corative stitches of the automatic system are used instead of the usual zigzag stitch effectiv rnamental hemstitches will be produced such as they are show lowing illustrations With amisi stitch com ne 1 Blindstiteh Sew first seam After having attain uired length turn the fabric by 180 degrees and sew the the zigzag stitches d the erdi seam in such a way th opposite each other Stitch length 15 Stitch width 35 With decorative stitch eam no 1 Sew first seam After having reached the wished for length turn the
47. ust below number zero at the left side of scale the machine will sew forward If to the contrary the stitch regulating lever 24 is Pushed upwards to just above number zero the ma ching will sew backward Forward and backward sewing serves to strengthen certain sewing areas and to secure the ends of th thre The more the st placed eiti the forward or buckwan ensure that both forward and backward atitehes will be of the same length the lock screw of the stiteh regulating lever 24 should be turned respectively tightened sened In this manner the upwar and downward movement of the stitch regulating 4 can be limited When loosening said Jock h regulating N down screw 24 is ard the longer be In order to screw the displacement of the lever will be incrensed whereas in tightening same it will be reduced ade ately To remove the work rom the machine Raise the thread lever to its uppermost position Then raise also the presser foot by means of the lifting 1 This will release the upper thread ten e working piece can now easily be re moved without having to draw on the thread pre viously pd to the lef ero poi erate bund Darning table linen towels rk by hand so th along the other It w hreads about beyond h omewhat different lengh This w to streng teri k titehing h been me
48. working posi tion by moving the grip le ver of the zigzag knob 18 get hold of it and swivel it in such a way that the pawl comes to lie agninst stop pin L This is done by moving said grip lever e slightly to the right Now the pointer pin of zigzag knob 18 will be approxima pen tely opposite scale number 15 7 Adjust needle position re gulating knob 17 see fig 2 The lever is turned so far to the left until the white mark at the top end is lying exactly opposite the mark on the zigzag le I ver 18 Now the machine is perfectly adjusted for but tonhole sewing reu The step by step sewing of the buttonhole is performed as follows 1 Sewing the lefthand edge Start the machine then the lefthand edge is swen with backward stitches A scale on the buttonhole presser foot serves for determining the length of sald buttonhole After the wished for length of the Jefthand edge has been attained stop the machine at once Always take care that at that moment the needle is up and outward of the work itself 2 Sewing the first end stitehen For this purpose take hold of the zigzag lever 18 and give it a strong push to the left until it touches stop IL The sew a few end stitches and after that en stop the machine once more and set the neodle up see fig 57 3 Sewing the righthand edge Bring the zigzag lever 18 back from lefthand stop 1 to righthand stop I and start the machine again Then stop
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