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SINGER Professional 5

1. Q O How to Replace the Moveable Upper Knife LA Danger Before replacing the moveable upper knife disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle e The moveable upper knife should be changed when it becomes dull The moveable upper knife can be replaced according to the directions provided however if there are any difficulties experienced consult your Singer representative to make the replacement Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source Open the looper cover and set the moveable upper knife a in the working position Loosen the moveable upper knife set screw b and remove the moveable upper knife a Turn the hand wheel to lower the moveable upper knife holder to its lowest position In this position put a new moveable upper knife in the groove of the moveable upper knife holder making sure that the edge of the moveable upper knife is approximately 0 5 to 1 0 mm below the surface of the fixed cutting blade d e Tighten moveable upper knife set screw b 65 How to Exchange Light Bulb A Danger Always unplug before re lamping a Light cover screw e Light bulb is available at your Singer shop Take old bulb to the Singer shop and ask for the same bulb e f voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 1
2. How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem a N e The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation e The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible e Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch See page 43 Note The three thread flatlock stitch can also be used See page 44 e Set the stitch length dial at 4 e Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric then back to the right side with 6 mm 1 4 inch beyond the fold e Stitch on the extended hem edge allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold Note An optional blindstitch foot is available See page 68 How to Sew Pin Tucks e Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment e Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch See page 43 Note The rolled hemstitch can also be used for this technique e Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position See page 35 e Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks using a water soluble fabric marker 60 e Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew e Press the pin tucks in the same direction Turning Square Corners 1 Outside Corner e Cut out approximately 2cm 51 6
3. Underside ATD D Light Weight Tension Dial fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e Spreader Woolly nylon Spreader Additional Information About Rolled Hemming e Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam e Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained e The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1 5 mm 1 16 inch since the cutting width cannot be set below 3 5 mm 9 64 inch To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain e Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam Allow to dry then cut the chain close to the stitches Note Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness before use 57 25 STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam e A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2 thread or 3 thread overlock stitch sewing the seam and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam e The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only 1 Machine Set Up e Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle e Begin with the machine threaded and tension ATD E balanced for the 2 thread overedge page 42 or 3 thread flatlock stitch A
4. The 4 thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 2 thread overedge and double chainstitch 9 Five thread Safety Stitch Wide ATD B The 5 thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 3 thread overlock and double chainstitch A wide seam is formed by using left needle Overedge and seaming can be done in one operation on non stretch fabrics 10 Five thread Safety Stitch Narrow ATD A 11 Cover Stitch Narrow 2 8mm ATD K The 5 thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 3 thread overlock and double chainstitch A narrow seam is formed by using right Needle Overege and seaming can be don in one operation on non stretch fabrics 2 needle 3 thread cover stitch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knits etc A narrow seam is formed by using left and middle needles 12 Cover Stitch Wide 5 6mm 2 needle 3 thread cover stitch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knits etc A wide seam is formed by using left and right needles 13 Triple Cover Stitch 5 6mm 3 needle 4 thread cover stitch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knits etc A triple seam is formed by using left middle and right needles 14 Three thread Rolled Hem ATD C 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for sewing narrow rolled hems Depending on the needle positions used this machine ca
5. C Remove overedge right needle B and overedge left needle A e For Triple 5 6mm cover stitch install cover stitch right needle E cover stitch middle needle D and cover stitch left needle C See pages 25 29 e Pass thread through needles E D and C and thread cover stitch looper brown See pages 20 21 e Install seam guide plate See page 40 e The graduations on seam guide plate indicate the Cover stitch i i i i j distance from cover stitch middle needle Use it as a middle needle oa ete H guide when positioning fabric edge D 1 2 25mm e Close looper cover 49 Additional Information About Cover Stitch Start and end of sewing Note Follow the instructions given below when sewing cover stitches because chaining off at the end of sewing is not possible At start of sewing e Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter e Place material under presser foot behind the needle e Lower presser foot by raising the presser bar lifter Note When you start to sew from the middle of the fabric place the fabric at the desired starting point of sewing 50 2 Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Ne
6. front and back bodices skirt hems etc in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before assembling into garment To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering e Set differential feed adjusting dial below setting N Setting of adjusting dial depends on material being sewn as well as the amount of desired gather Therefore set dial to suit the fabric and test sew before sewing your garment Note For normal overedge stitching set differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N 33 Stretch Overedge e Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars sleeves skirt hems etc on loosely knit and woven fabrics To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch e Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above setting N e To sew a Seam apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot Note if amount of stretch is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn the fabric is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge seam In such case reset differential feed adjusting dial closer to the center mark Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N for normal overedge stitching 34 18 HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE E N UPPER KNIFE A Caution Be sure to turn off power switch To
7. 5 and the slot of take up lever cover 6 Then slip thread into the right slot on the thread guide 7 and into the right slot on the thread guide 8 Before threading eye of needle slip thread behind thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp e Thread the eye of the right needle 9 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy e The position of the thread must be behind the thread guide e Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye towards the rear of machine e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 5 Threading the Chain Stitch Needle Orange r N D on needle clamp e Thread the left needle as indicated 1 9 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs e Pass thread from back to the front through the A N thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover Thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Continue to thread points 4 8 Note Slip thread into the middle slot of the thread guide 5 and into the slot of take up lever cover 6 Then co
8. 8 5 16 5mm 9 8mm 3 16 3 8 Right needle Chain stitch needle a Width adjustment knob E As shown on the illustration turn the dial counter clockwise to increase width of cutting and clockwise to decrease width of cutting 16 HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE e The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics e Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure However there are some instances where adjustment is necessary such as when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics e In such case N for normal 1 for the lightest pressure and 5 for the heaviest e For lightweight fabric Decrease the pressure e For heavyweight fabric Increase the pressure 32 17 DIFFERENTIAL FEED e Differential feed is a system which stretches or gathers the fabric when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed e The differential feed ratio ranges from 1 0 6 1 2 0 Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right e Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias e Setting N is differential feed adjusting dial setting for ratio 1 1 Gathered Overedge e Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring sleeves yokes
9. 80 14 90 11 80 14 90 11 80 30 SPECIFICATION Sewing speed Stitch length feed amount Differential feed ratio Overedge stitch width Cover stitch needle gauge Needle bar stroke Pressure foot rise Needle Number of threads Machine dimensions mm Width Depth Height Weight kg 1 300 som maximum 1 4 mm standard rolled hemming 1 2 ordinary overedge N 2 5 1 0 6 1 2 with differential feed machine Rolled hemming 1 5 mm ordinary overedge 3 0 9 8 mm Standard 4 mm Two needles 2 8 mm narrow 5 6 mm wide Triple needles 5 6 mm 27mm 4 5mm Singer 2022 EL x 705 14 11 2 5 71 Please note that on disposal this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical electronic products If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance G5P21
10. A into B Auto tension settings are based on medium weight fabric and standard 60 polyester spun thread It can satisfy most Se for sewing If using a different thread weight or fabric and the result is not as you expected please adjust tension in small increments 8 3 ACCESSORIES Accessories are contained in the accessory case Screw driver large size 1 Knife stationary 1 Thread Unwinder spool cap 5 Anti spill net 5 Oiler 1 Allen Screw driver small 1 Tweezers 1 Needle set 1 Brush 1 Cone Adapters Waste tray Machine cover OMNAOARWND oO 5 on machine 1 in carton 1 in carton cae N 4 NEEDLE INFORMATION e This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle that eliminates the possibility of inserting the needle backwards e Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing machine needle of any size or type in this overlock Singer needle 2022 size 14 90 is furnished with the machine e Only use Needle 2022 size 14 90 and 11 80 as supplied in the accessory case 2022 Overlock needle 5 PRINCIPAL PARTS e ei ek ei ee ea NOOR WN O 18 Thread guides and holder Handle Left needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange Right needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue Upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green Lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red Chain stitch looper thread tension
11. Thread Guide Holder e Take out the thread guide from the top of Styrofoam and insert it as shown on illustration e This machine is shipped with the thread guide holder in the lowered position e Fully extend the thread guide holder e The two joints on the telescope will click into place when they are correctly positioned e Center the thread guides above the spool pins e Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins Note Your new machine is threaded to sew Triple Cover Stitch Refer to Page 30 for instructions on tying on to the threads Anti spill Net e When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone slip the anti spill net furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top of the anti spill net as shown on illustration Anti spill net Spool cap Spool Cap e When using a regular thread spool fit the spool cap supplied with the machine onto the thread spool as shown on illustration Thread spool A 14 11 HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES Needle Position e With this machine five needles can be inserted into the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only one or two or three needles are to be used for sewing Do not attempt to use four or five needles e The Instruction Book refers to different needle
12. Threads go through take up lever cover for Cover stitch as shown Tension Color Code Cover Stitch 1 Cover stitch looper thread Brown 2 Right needle thread 008 Green 3 Middle needle thread 5 Blue 4 Left needle thread Orange a Chain stitch Overlock To Thread The Machine Correctly A N A Caution L D Be sure to turn off power switch Note The instructions on this page and the following pages EA ch will guide you through the proper threading for each A color coded threading path i Before threading refer to the Handy Reference Chart for information on Stitch Types Settings Needle les Sockets and Color Coded Threading Paths 1 Threading the Upper Looper Green e Thread the upper looper as indicated 1 9 e Raise Presser foot to release tension discs Note The presser foot is raised by lowering the Presser bar lifter The motion allows a clear path for the fabric when sewing e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pul
13. aid in threading the looper e Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through threading guide 4 e Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through the front slot of threading guide 5 e Thread the looper eye A from front to back Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread through the looper Position thread into V cutout B on threader Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull threader lever C up into place D 4 Threading the Overedge Right Needle Blue B on needle clamp e Thread the right needle as indicated 1 9 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs 21 a 9 i ant f O_O a i l e wy e Pass thread from back to the front through the a thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Continue to thread points 4 8 Note Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread guide
14. and can be hazardous e The snap on type presser foot of this machine permits easy removal and replacement AN Caution Be sure to disconnect the power line plug or turn off the power switch when changing the presser foot Snap On Type Presser Foot Removal e Raise presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter and raise needle bar to ist highest position e Press red colored lever A located on back of clamp under the presser foot shank raise presser bar lifter to its High Lift position by pressing down on the presser bar lifter and while holding the presser bar lifter in this position remove the presser foot plate Replacement e Place presser foot on needle plate under presser foot shank so that hinge pin C will fit in slot B of the shank Then lower presser foot by raising presser bar lifter e If presser foot can not be placed under presser foot shank easily raise presser bar by pressing down on the presser bar lifter to its High Lift position and while holding it in this position place presser foot plate under presser foot shank Then lower presser by raising presser bar lifter e Raise presser bar lifter and make sure the presser foot is properly attached to the presser foot shank 67 Optional Presser Feet 1 Elastic Foot e This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the garment and the amount of contraction of the elastic tape can be adjusted as required
15. e e Upper looper thread Chain stitch needle thread Upper looper thread Chain stitch needle thread Upper looper thread TA Underside Lower KS Upper looper thread eae axe a acon ae ae eet R Si Lower looper thread Chain stitch needle thread Underside Underside Lower looper thread Underside hairstitch looper thread looper thread 23 HOW TO SEW A COVER STITCH e This machine can produce a 3 thread 5 6 mm wide bottom cover stitch e The cover stitch can be used for covering binding or top stitching necklines and for hemming the bottom of T shirts and sweat suits etc in addition to flat joining seams plain seaming e The cover stitch is most suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knit e t also can be used in woven fabrics such as denim but careful attention must be paid to the tension settings or there is the possibility of thread breakage and or skipping e If you experience skipping or thread breakage sewing denim change needles first and then adjust the tensions little by little 1 4 number at a time Machine Set up A Caution Be sure to turn off the power switch e Open looper cover See page 12 e Disengage upper looper See page 40 e Place the movable upper knife in the non working position See page 35 e Set seam width finger knob on R side See page 37 Set C L clutch see page 40
16. fine tuning lever brown Needle plate Cloth plate Looper cover Power amp light switch Stitch length dial Hand wheel Spool stand Cone adaptor Spool pin Waste tray Auto tension dial EW 10 LT PRINCIPAL PARTS 19 Presser bar lifter and tension release 20 Differential feed adjusting dial 21 Cutting width dial 22 Presser foot pressure adjusting dial 11 6 HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER A Caution Be sure to turn off power switch e Push the cover to the right as far as it will go e Pull cover down toward you A Caution Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing Note Machine will not operate when Looper Cover is open 7 PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE LOOPER COVER 1 Upper looper 2 Moveable Upper knife 3 Presser foot 4 Fixed position lower knife 5 Lower looper 6 Chain Cover looper 7 Rolled Hem lever 8 Spreader 9 Upper looper clutch 8 PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING e Connect the controller electric plug to the machine receptacle e Plug power line into electric outlet e Power Switch Push mark side to turn ON Push O mark side to turn OFF e To run the machine and control the speed press the controller e The harder you press the faster the machine will sew e To stop the machine from sewing remove your foot from the controller ad WARNING Use
17. positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right Note When both the left and right overedge needles are inserted the left needle will be slightly higher than the right When all cover stitch needles are inserted the center needle will be slightly higher than the right needle and the left needle slightly higher than the center needle To Remove Needle s IN Caution Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle s e Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needles are at their highest position e Place a thick piece of fabric such as felt under the presser foot Lower the needles halfway into the fabric e Loosen but do not remove the needle set screws with the small allen screwdriver Hold the needles with your fingers and raise the needle bar The needles will remain in the fabric A Overedge left needle B Overedge right needle C Cover stitch left needle D Cover stitch middle needle E Cover stitch right needle To Insert Needles s e Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back e Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it will go e When inserting a needle if you first lower it down into the hole in the needle plate it will line up with the needle socket Then direct it upwards Note When inserting needles into the A or B sockets it is necessary to loosen both A amp B Allen Screws After inserting the needles equally tighten bot
18. tension discs 3 25 e Continue to thread points 4 8 Note Slide thread into front slot on thread guide 5 and slot of take up lever cover 6 Then slip thread into left slots of thread guides 7 and 8 Before threading eye of needle make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp e Thread the eye of the left needle 9 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy e Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 2 Threading the Cover Stitch Middle Chain Stitch Needle Blue D on needle clamp e Thread the cover stitch middle chain stitch needle as indicated 1 9 e Raise the Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs 26 e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Continue to thre
19. too loose Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position When the right needle thread tension is too loose Move the right needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position 46 ATD A NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N STITCH LENGTH 2 4 SPREADER N A Upper looper thread Cay Va TA AN Lower looper thread Underside Fabri Tension Dial atid Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e e wa ANNAN P A 2 eX Left needle thread Topside BEN UWE Lower looper thread Underside AUAwWAN RN AWAW Ate SANS I iit WM TES LOS Gre INNIN RRRRNRI K TETERA AAA TE NN Va TERI WEN Left needle thread Topside Lower looper thread Underside Lower looper thread Underside 8 4 thread Safety Stitch Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to as shown on illustration and test How sew on a sample of your fabric to Balance When the lower looper thread appears
20. 14T968DC Instruction Book SINGER HOME WORLD 14T968DC PREFACE Thank you for your purchase of this Combination Overlock Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch Sewing Machine This machine that is intended for household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy material lawn to denim Please refer to this Instruction Book for proper use and optimum service To get the most out of your sewing machine read the entire Instruction Book before attempting to operate the machine Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the Instruction Book page by page To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities the manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance design or accessories of this sewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation This SINGER sewing machine model 14T968DC has been tested by GS Certification of Electro technical Materials according to European standards and corresponds to the guidelines for electrical safety radio interference and surge immunity Conformity is documented by the GS symbol and the CE identification Rheinland i Product Safety gepr fte Sicherheit SINGER is a registered trademark of The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates 2008 The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates All rights reserved IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using this machine b
21. 2 Blind Hem Foot e This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics skirt and trouser seams where seam should not be visible 3 Shirring Foot e This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts yokes cuffs and frills on skirts etc e This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics together and gathering the bottom fabric in one operation 4 Pearl Sequin Foot e This foot is used for sewing on beads etc 5 Piping Cording Foot e This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting between two plies of fabric 6 Taping Foot e This sewing foot is suited for sewing on tapes etc 68 28 TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Fabric does not feed well Lengthen stitch length Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric Needle breaks Insert needle correctly Do not pull fabric while sewing Tighten needle set screw Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics Thread breaks Check threading Check for tangled or caught thread Insert needle correctly Insert new needle current needle may be bent or have a blunt Point Use only high quality thread Loosen thread tension Stitch skip Insert new needles current needles may be bent or have a blunt point Use only Singer Branded Style 2022 Needles Tighten needle set screw Insert needles correctly Change type or size of needles Check threading In
22. 20V ask for light bulb conforming to following specification Bayonet type 110 120V 15W e Glass shape T 20 e Lamp cap E12 e Overall length 48mm e Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illustration Turn bulb to the left to remove To replace the bulb push bulb into the socket and turn to the right a LA Caution Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before UE changing with a new one Warning Replace Remove Replace the light cover first before connecting Ky the power line plug e f voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 220 240V ask for light bulb conforming to following specification Edison type screw type 220 240V 15W e Glass shape 1 22 e Lamp cap E14 e Overall length 56mm e Remove light cover screw and while pushing the cover lightly to the rear swing cover to the left and remove from machine as shown in the illustration Turn bulb to the left to remove To replace the bulb screw bulb into the socket and turn to the right Replace ts os Remove 66 A 27 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES e The following optional presser feet specially prepared for this machine are available at extra charge Note Do not use presser foot made for other machines Use of such presser foot may result in interference with the needle and knife
23. 4 inch from the corner in line with the overedge seam edge e Sew one stitch beyond point A and stop e Raise needle and presser foot e Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the needle plate Note Presser foot has been removed to show detail e Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge e Pull slack threads up then start to sew 61 Cutting line Cutting line 2 Inside Corner e Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown e Sew along seam line e Sew up to end of fold Leave needle in fabric e Raise presser foot Leave needle in fabric Spread fold and re fold so that seam line is straight Pin Placement e Insert pins to the left of the presser foot The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives AN Caution Sewing over pins will damage and or destroy the cutting edge of the knives Securing the Thread Chain e Thread a large eye hand sewing needle such as a tapestry needle with the thread chain e Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread e Note To secure a rolled hem thread chain see page 57 62 Seam line Cut How to Reinforce a Seam e Inserting twill tape while overedge se
24. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH e The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions e Adjust the stitch length to N 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics e Adjust the stitch length to 2 N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering 15 HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH e Overedge seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position e Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position a When using left needle ceeeee 6mm 15 64 inch b When only right needle is used 4mm 10 64 inch c When using chain stitch needle 8 8 mm 11 32 inch Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob e Use of width adjustment knob will permit further adjustment within the width range shown below a When using left needle eeeeee 5 7mm 13 64 17 64 inch b When only right needle is used 3 0 5 0 mm 1 8 3 16 inch c When using chain stitch needle 7 8 9 8mm 5 16 3 8 inch 31 6 0 mm 15 64 t Left needle tZ Vas T EZ EZ NM ANI 4 0 mm 8 8 mm 10 64 11 32 Right needle Chain stitch needle 5mm 13 64 7mm 17 64 Left needle Re 3mm 7 8mm 1
25. TD F page 44 2 Flatlocking a Seam e Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side of the garment e Sew the seam trimming the excess fabric DN The needle thread orange or blue will form a V on the SN underside of the fabric Needle thread M e The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the Upper looper thread fabric edge Topside Underside e Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat es 58 3 Decorative Flatlocking e Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position page 35 The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch e Fold fabric wrong sides together e Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric e Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten 4 Additional Information About Flatlocking e The tensions must be correctly fine tuned for the fabric to pull flat e The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and needle e For a ladder stitch sew seam with right sides together The needle thread will be the prominent thread that creates the ladder A 59 NIN AA MARA iNi RAA SIN NK A NINNI CRS CF
26. Tension is automatically set when seiecting the NEEDLE POSITION desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size STITCH LENGTH 2 4 3 Size type and fibre content of thread SPREADER N A Upper looper thread Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to A or B as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric ATD A A Tension Dial Fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e o ATD B Tension Dial Fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e Upper looper thread How to Balance Needle shiad N yj Lower looper thread e When the upper looper thread lies on the underside Underside of the fabric Move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever Upper looper thread green to a higher position Or move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever Cee red to a lower position PSS SSS SEES Needle thread When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric Topside Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position Or move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green to a lower position e When the needle thread is too loose move the need
27. abric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Correct Balance How Set auto tension dial to B as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric to Balance When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric Move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green to a higher position Or move lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red to a lower position When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position Or move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a lower position When the left needle thread tension is too loose Move the left needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose Move the chain stitch needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position Or move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position 48 ATD B NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N STITCH LENGTH 2 4 SPREADER N A Upper looper thread KISIM Lower looper thread Chain stitch looper thread are Underside Chain stitch needle thread raD Tension Dial abric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e
28. achine until the needle penetrates the fabric e When starting to sew after threading the machine sew 2 3 cm on a scrap fabric and chain off to make a chain e At end of sewing pull the fabric lightly to the rear of machine and chain off 40 Chain stitch needle 2 2 thread Wrapped Edge Overlock m A oe vu Tension is automatically set when seiecting the NEP DLE POSITION 000 000 desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables SEAM WET ence X 1 Type and thickness of fabric STITCH LENGTH 2 4 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread SPREADER USE Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to D or G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric Underside ATD D Tension Dial Fabrig Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e Spreader e ATD G Tension Dial papri Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e Spreader e How to Balance e When the lower looper thread tension is too tight or needle thread tension is too loose Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a lower position Or move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a higher position e When the lower looper thread tension is too loos
29. ad points 4 8 Note Slip thread into the middle slot of the thread guide 5 and into the slot of take up lever cover 6 Then continue by slipping thread into the middle slot of the thread guides 7 and 8 Before threading eye of needle make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for Cover stitch and for Chain stitch 27 e Thread the eye of the middle needle 9 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy e Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye towards the back of the machine e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 3 Threading the Cover Stitch Right Needle Green E on needle clamp e Thread the cover stitch right needle as indicated 1 9 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Continue to thread points 4 8 Note Slip thread into the rear slot on thread gui
30. adjustments as necessary Information e Amark to indicate the needle location is provided on the presser foot fitted on this machine Use this mark as a guide when sewing 38 Mark Mark 22 SETTINGS AND SEWING ATD D 1 Double Chain stitch we NEEDLE POSITION OBO Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers STITCH LENGTH 2 4 according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric DRIVING CULTCH POSITION C 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Stitch length for double chain stitch should be set at over 2mm Correct Balance Chain stitch Needle thread looper thread e Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric Underside Fabri Tension Dial anre Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e How to Balance SpA Chain stitch e When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose Needle thread looper thread Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position B Or move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning Topside lever brown toward a lower position U
31. asic safety precautions should always be followed including the following Read all instructions before using the machine A N DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning Always unplug before re lamping Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts Be sure to replace the face plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine A N WARNING To reduce the risk of burns fire electric shock or injury to persons Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet wall receptacle is the same as the rated voltage of the motor Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Instruction Book Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Instruction Book To disconnect turn all controls to the off 0 position then remove plug from outlet Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any adjustments in the needle area such as threading needle and loopers changing needle changing throat plate or changing presser foot etc Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Instruction Book Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt Contact your neares
32. case to sunlight directly Also do not keep it in a very warm or damp place Do not touch the machine foot controller and power line cord with wet hand wet cloth or with anything wet Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to one power outlet with adapters Use machine on flat and stable table Be sure to close the looper cover before operating the machine Keep presser foot and needles away from children s reach Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before changing with a new one Do not dismantle or modify the machine yourself Be sure to turn off the power switch and disconnect the power line plug before caring for your machine as instructed in the Instruction Book The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision Young childen should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord SERVICING OF DOUBLE INSULATED PRODUCTS In a double insulated product two systems of insulation is provided instead of grounding No grounding means is provided on a double insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product Servicing of a double insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel Replacement parts for a double insulated product must be identical to those part
33. crease presser foot pressure Use a high quality thread Irregular stitches Fine tune thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Check threading Fabric puckers Loosen thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Use high quality lightweight thread Shorten stitch length Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabrics Irregular trimming Check alignment of knives Replace one or both knives Fabric jams Close looper cover before sewing Check for tangled or caught thread Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before sewing with overlock Machine does not operate Connect machine to power source 69 29 RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH THREAD AND NEEDLE Type of Fabric Type of Thread Needle Singer Cat 2022 Lightweight Lawn Organdy Voile Crepe etc Medium Weight Muslin Seersucker Satin Gabardine Broadcloth etc Heavy Weight Oxford Denim Tweed Serge Corduroy Tricot Wool woven knit Cotton 100 Silk Rayon 100 Spun 80 90 Polyester 80 100 Cotton 60 80 Silk Rayon 50 Spun 60 80 Polyester 60 80 Cotton 40 60 Silk Rayon 40 60 Spun 60 80 Polyester 50 80 Spun 80 90 Polyester 60 80 Spun 60 80 Polyester 60 80 Cotton 60 80 Spun 60 80 Polyester 50 60 Woolly nylon Woolly Polyester 70 11 80 14 90 11 80 14 90 11
34. d hem Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R 37 ae U 4m 21 CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING Note The following instructions do not apply to cover stitch For instructions on cover stitch see page 49 How to Sew a Cover Stitch e When the machine is completely threaded bring all of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot e Hold the threads and apply a slight tension e Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain e Lower presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter e Continue holding the chain and press on the foot controller until the chain is 5 7 5 cm 2 3 inches in length e Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample Note Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle causing it to break e At the end of the sample continue to run the machine with the presser foot down until the chain reaches 15 20 cm 6 8 inches in length Note In case it is difficult to chain off when chain stitching pull the fabric lightly backward e Cut thread Note Anytime you have rethreaded the machine always chain off and sew a text sample to test tensions and make
35. des 5 Slip the thread into the slot of the Take up Lever Cover 6 Slip the thread into the right slots for thread guides 7 and 8 Before threading eye of needle make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for Cover stitch e Thread the eye of the right needle 9 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy e Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye towards the rear of the machine e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 29 13 HOW TO CHANGE THREADS TIE ON METHOD e To change thread type or color clip thread near the spool e Place new thread on stand e Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot Clip thread tails to 2 3cm 1 inch length If clipped too short threads may come untied e Firmly pull both thread to test knot security e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs Pull the threads through the machine one at a time e If threads do not pull easily check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand e When pulling thread through the needles STOP when the knot is in front of the needle Cut the thread and insert it through the needle 30 14
36. e Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position 41 3 2 thread Overedge ATD E A Tension is automatically set when seiecting the NEEDLE POSITION ee an desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD 299 J 2ze Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size STITCH LENGTH 2 4 3 Size type and fibre content of thread SPREADER USE See page 36 for instructions on converting upper looper to spreader TA ics Correct Balance AK Needle thread e Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric Fabri Tension Dial e Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e Spreader e How to Balance e When the lower looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position Or move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a lower position e When the needle thread tension is too loose Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a higher position Or move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a lower position 42 4 3thread Overlock iC S Ue vu
37. edle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N 2 5 mm Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to K or H as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric How to Balance e When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose Move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a higher position When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too loose Move the cover stitch left needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position Or move cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose Move the cover stitch right needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue or orange toward a higher position Or move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position 51 ANT Topside Underside J a A NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH N 4 DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION C Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Cover stitch looper thread To
38. gh to the edge of fabric 53 24 HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM e This machine can sew four types of rolled hems e Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge e Light weight fabrics such as lawn voile organdy crepe etc perform the best e Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics NOTE Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overedge right needle Machine Set up A Caution Be sure to turn off power switch e Remove the overedge left needle chain stitch needle and cover stitch needle s e Move seam width finger knob to setting R e Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on needle plate by turning seam width adjustment knob as required e Set stitch length dial to 1 2 and a fine seam will be sewn e Needle Singer Cat No 2022 14 90 or 2022 11 80 lt e Thread A variety of thread combinations can be used for rolled hemming 54 Note For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread 1 3 thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric 2 3 thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to C as shown on illus
39. h screws This machine uses Singer 2022 needles Do not use Standard Household Needles 15 Overedge left needle _ Overedge right needle ca d Cover stitch right needle Cover stitch middle needle Chain stitch needle Cover stitch left needle S Right overedge Left and right needle thread D overedge needle thread fo OU obo Left middle and right cover stitch needle thread Chain stitch B needle thread NG q A B Pi N a 7 ie Flat surface to the rear A 12 THREADING THE MACHINE Threading Diagram Overlock and Safety Stitches e Acolor coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference e Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown Note Threads go through the take up lever cover for Overlock and Chain stitching as shown Tension Color Code Overlock and Safety Stitch 1 Upper looper thread eeee Green 2 Lower looper thread Red 3 Chain stitch looper thread Brown 4 Right needle thread ceee Blue 5 Chain stitch needle thread Orange Threading Diagram Cover Stitch e Acolor coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference e Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown Note
40. id in threading the looper e Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly from left and to the right of threading guide 4 e Place the thread with the point of the tweezers slightly from front and to the back of threading guide 5 e Thread the looper eye A from front to back Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread Position thread into V cutout B on threader Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever C up into place D 19 3 Threading the Chain Stitch Cover stitch Looper Brown e Thread the chain stitch cover stitch looper as indicated 1 4 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with fingers pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Turn the hand wheel toward you until the chain stitch looper extends out 10mm from the needle plate edge e Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color coded thread guides 4 11 Note Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to
41. l thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4 9 e Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 9 Note Make sure thread passes behind lower looper Note Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper e Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the needle plate 2 Threading the Lower Looper Red e Thread the lower looper as indicated 1 10 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 e Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper extends out 5 10mm from the needle plate edge e Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4 10 Note Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to a
42. le JNA ONN Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch TAA OS Left needle thread Y Topside OAA Underside Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread middle needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Underside Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread middle needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Underside Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch middle needle thread Cover stitch looper thread i f Cover stitch J Left needle thread aS Topside RO Underside AW Securing the seam end Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing secure the seam end in the following manner e When sewing through to the edge of fabric among the threads coming out of the fabric edge knot the needle threads 2 or 3 threads together first as shown on the illustration Then tie these threads with the looper threads e When sewing is stopped halfway pull out the needle threads 2 or 3 threads on the underside of the fabric and knot the threads in the same manner as described above e Cut extra threads Note Normally the seams at the start of sewing do not unravel but it is safe to secure the seam end following the same steps as described when sewing throu
43. le tension fine tuning lever orange or blue to a higher position 43 5 3 thread Flatlock Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to F as shown on illustration How and test sew on a sample of your fabric to Balance When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position Or move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a lower position When the upper looper thread tension is too loose Move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a higher position Or move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a lower position When the needle thread tension is too loose Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange or blue toward a higher position Or move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a lower position 44 ATD F Dw Cs NEEDLE POSITION 300 ele SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N STITCH LENGTH 2 4 SPREADER N A Tension Dial Fabric Ora
44. n sew 2 thread and 3 thread standard width 4 mm overedge and a 6 mm wide overedge seams Also for overedging heavyweight fabrics the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob See page 31 Overedge width 4 0 mm 6 0 mm Needle used Overedge right needle Overedge left needle Needle thread tension fine tuning 2 HANDY REFERENCE CHART Correct Threading Tension Path When Needle using the Auto Tension Dial ATD the correct tension is set automatically Stitch Type Position Orange Blue Green Red Brown Double Chain Stitch iz 9 UB Two Thread al Wrapped Edge Overlock Two Thread Overedge Three Thread Overlock Three Thread Flatlock Three Thread Ultra Stretch mock Safety Stitch four Thread Ultra Stretch mock Safety Stitch Four Thread Safety Stitch Five Thread Safety Stitch Wide Five Thread Safety Stitch Narrow Cover stitch Narrow Cover stitch Wide Triple Cover stitch Three Thread Rolled Hem ATD Auto Tension Dial Selection SL Stitch Length DF Differential Feed L C Upper Looper driving clutch position When option 2 3 6 8 selected use spreader When option 1 11 12 13 selected turn upper knife down move seam width finger knob to setting R and change looper cover attached cover
45. nce 64 Cleaning the Machine ccccceceeeeeeeeeeeteeeees 64 Olling the machi Essensen 64 How to replace the moveable upper knife 65 How to exchange light bulb eee 66 27 Optional ACCESSOLICS ccccceeeceeeeeteeeeteeeeees 67 Snap on type presser fOOt ccceeeeeeteeeeeeeees 67 Optional presser feet ccccessceceeeeeeeneeeeees 68 A Elastic fogt nei ea 68 2 Blind hemi OOt isisiucininriiernnnnstinnini 68 3 SHIMING oO bisaa an a ie 68 4 Pearl Sequin foot 68 5 Piping Cording foot eeeeeeeeteeeeeeeeeeeeees 68 6 TAPING TOO icices sec anini 68 28 Troubleshooting Chatt ccecceeeeeeeeeeeeeees 69 29 Relationship between Cloth Thread and Need 70 30 S PECIICALON a mssins 71 1 SELECTION OF STITCHES amp AUTO TENSION This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of Auto Tension Selected needle positions threading methods and the use of convertible right looper spreader Reference Stitch Type ATD Auto Tension Dial Selected Page Double Chain Stitch ATD D A 1 needle 2 thread straight stitch is used for construction or decorative stitching Seams also can be sewn at desired distance from edge of fabric by disengaging the right looper and movable knife Two thread Wrapped Edge Overlock ATD D ATD G 1 needle 2 thread stitch is
46. nderside 39 How to Sew The double chain stitch is sewn with 2 threads one needle and one looper Normally the machine trims the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn However a chain stitch seam can be placed at a desired distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a nonworking position disengaging the upper looper and installing the chain stitch seam guide plate LA Caution Be sure to turn off the power switch a Move knife into nonworking position e See page 35 for instructions on placing upper knife in nonworking position b Disengage upper looper e Turn handwheel till driving shaft is at its most right position otherwise danger may occur e Push clutch button to the left and up for cover stitch chain stitch or to the left and down for overlock c To re engage upper looper e Turn handwheel till driving shaft is at its most right position otherwise danger may occur e Push clutch button to the left and up for cover stitch chain stitch or to the left and down for overlock d To install the seam guide plate e Open the looper cover e Remove knife cover and install seam guide plate e The graduations on seam guide plate indicate the distance from chain stitch needle Use this as a guide when checking the distance between cover stitch left needle and fabric edge e Start and end of sewing e When starting to sew pull the thread chain lightly to the rear of m
47. ng Off and Test Sewing 0 ccee 38 22 Settings and Sewing Instructions 0 6 39 1 Do blechain Stit h iziii 39 2 2 Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock 41 3 2 Thread Overedge eeceeeeeeeeeseeeeesneeeeneeees 42 4 3 Thread OverlOCK iirinn 43 5 3 Thread FlatlOCkK minenn 44 6 3 Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch 45 7 4 thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safely Stitch 46 8 4 Thread Safety Stitch 0 eee 47 9 5 Thread Safety Stitch 0 eects 48 23 How to Sew a Cover Stitch 49 24 How to Sew a Rolled hem 54 1 3 thread standard rolled hem stitching 55 2 3 thread upper looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching c cceeeeeeeeeeeeeees 55 3 2 thread standard rolled hem stitching 56 4 2 thread lower looper thread wrapped rolled hem stitching c cceeeceeeeeeeeeeeees 56 25 Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques 58 Decorative Flatlocking cccceeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 59 How to sew an overlock blind hem 000 60 How to SeW Pin tUGKS siisii icsse seiniin 60 Turning square COFNETS cceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 61 Pin placement snena nia 62 Securing the thread Chain eceeeeeeeeeeeeee 62 How to reinforce a SCAM eeeeeeeseeeeeteeeeeteeetenes 63 Braiding by chaining Off ceeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 63 26 Machine Maintena
48. nge Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight bd e e Tension Dial Fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e A eedle threa cS Upper looper thread G pper loop we MOG FON TNI NI Wi wee SOS TS Needle thread Lower looper thread Underside Needle thread Lower looper thread Underside Needle thread 6 3 thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch ATD G Tension is automatically set when seiecting the NEEDLE POSITION a desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables j SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size STITCH LENGTH 2 4 3 Size type and fibre content of thread SPREADER USE Right Needdle thread Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric Tension Dial Fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight e e Spreader e How to Balance Right Needdle thread e When the lower looper thread tension is too loose Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red TW toward a higher position ae SS S NN Left Needle thread ZY 2 Lower l thread TXA ower looper threa Topside NN T eda e When the left needle thread ten
49. ntinue by slipping thread into the middle slot of the thread guides 7 and 8 Note For 4 thread overlock left needle Use needle A Before threading eye of needle slip thread behind thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp Note For chain stitch Use needle D Before threading eye of needle make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp e Thread the eye of the left needle 9 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy e The position of the thread must be behind the the thread guide e Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free e Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 24 6 Threading the Cover Stitch Needles 1 Threading the Cover Stitch Left Needle Orange C on needle clamp e Thread the cover stitch left chain stitch needle as indicated 1 9 e Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs e Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 e Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated e While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the
50. on the top of the fabric Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red to a higher position Or move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a lower position When the right needle thread is too loose Move the right needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose Move the chain stitch needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position Or move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position 47 ATD A NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N STITCH LENGTH 2 4 SPREADER USE Lower looper thread Overedge Needle thread Fabric Tension Dial Orange Blue Green Red Brown Medium weight Spreader e e Lower looper thread Chain stitch Needle thread N Y Topside KA AX e Overedge Needle thread Chain stitch Needle thread Topside Q Underside Overedge Needle thread M r Chain stitch looper thread A it f Underside Overedge Needle thread 9 5 thread Safety Stitch Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of f
51. only foot controller provided with this machine Type 4C 316B for U S A amp CANADA only Be sure to make reference to Warning on following Page NS 12 POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION FOR U S A amp CANADA ONLY This appliance has a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electric shock this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way AN Warning Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet wall receptacle is the same as the rated voltage of the motor Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles presser feet or when leaving the machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller 9 REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF WASTE TRAY Replacement e Insert the waste tray under the looper cover Be sure the left side of waste tray is mounted near the cutter where the scraps drop Removal e To remove hold the waste tray as shown and pull it outward 13 10 PREPARATION FOR THREADING a N l Setting Up the
52. ose Move the cover stitch left needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position Or move cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position When the cover stitch middle needle thread tension is too loose Move the cover stitch middle needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position Or move cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position When the cover stitch right needle thread tension is too loose Move the cover stitch right needle thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a higher position Or move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position When the top surface of fabric bulges between needle threads and the seams on the underside of the fabric becomes tight move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a lower position 52 ATD S NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH N 4 DRIVING CLUTCH POSTION C Cover stitch middle needle thread Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Underside Cover stitch Tension Dial looper Thread Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e e e Woolly nylon e e e e Cover stitch middle needle thread y
53. place movable knife in nonworking position e Open looper cover page 12 e Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go e Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position To place movable knife in working position e Open looper cover e Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go e Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the working position AN Caution Always close looper cover before operating machine 35 19 TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO ee SPREADER IN Caution Be sure to turn off power switch When not threading the upper looper the spreader must be engaged into the upper looper eye To Use the Spreader e To engage the spreader raise the white handle on the spreader to insert the tip into the eye of upper looper e When using the upper looper the spreader must be disengaged To Disengage to Upper Looper e To disengage the spreader lower the white handle on the spreader 36 20 STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING To Sew Standard Overedge e Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting N To Sew Rolled Hem e Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger and set it for rolle
54. pside Underside ATD K Cover stitch Tension Dial looper Thread Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e e e Woolly nylon e e ATD H Cover stitch Tension Dial looper Thread Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e e e Woolly nylon e e Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread Topside Cover stitch looper thread Cover stitch Left needle thread 3 Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N 2 5 mm Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to J as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric How to Balance e When the cover stitch looper thread is too loose Move the cover stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever brown toward a higher position When the cover stitch left needle thread tension is too lo
55. s in the product A double Insulated product is marked with the word DOUBLE INSULATION or DOUBLE INSULATED TABLE OF CONTENTS Page 1 Selection stitches amp Auto tension 5 2 Handy Reference Chatt cccecceeseeeeeeeeeeteeeees 8 3 ACCOSSONGS aeaa na natin iad haus 9 4 Needle Information ccc eceeeseeeeeeeeeeseeeeeeneeeeeees 9 5 Principal Parts iz ics eaer i i eaea 10 6 How to Open Looper Covel ccceeceeceeeeeeeeees 12 7 Principal Parts Behind Looper Over 12 8 Preparation prior to SCWING ccceeeeeerteeeeeeee 12 9 Removal and Replacement of Waste Tray 13 10 Preparation for Threading ccccceeeceeeeeeeeeees 14 Setting up the thread guide holdev 008 14 Antiespilll Net iris iepa niana aeai 14 SPO0l Capiasiiniciui aa AE ESET 14 11 How to Remove and Insert Needles 15 Needle postion cars oniro bashes aati 15 To remove needle S ccccceeeeneeeeeeeeeeteeeeeeeeeaee 15 To insert Needle S ccccceeeecceeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeeeenneees 15 12 Threading the Machine ceeseeeseeeeeeeeteeees 16 Threading diaQram ccccccceeeceeeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 16 Understanding the color code 16 To thread the machine correclly cceeeeeees 17 1 Threading the upper looper Green 17 2 Threading the lower looper Red 006 18 3 Threading the chain
56. sion is too loose Move the left needle thread tension fine tuning lever orange toward a higher position AINIS Da S a Lower looper thread Underside Left Needle thread Topside e When the right needle thread tension is too loose Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever blue toward a higher position Racal Sg ee T NN Left Needle thread Lower looper thread Topside N Underside 45 7 4 thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial ATD Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables 1 Type and thickness of fabric 2 Needle size 3 Size type and fibre content of thread Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to Aas shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric How to Balance When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of the fabric Move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a higher position Or move lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red to a lower position When the lower looper thread appears on the top of the fabric Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever red toward a higher position Or move the upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever green toward a lower position When the left needle thread tension is
57. stitch looper Brown 20 4 Threading the overedge right needle Blue 21 5 Threading the chain stitch needle Orange 23 6 Threading the cover stitch needles 25 Threading the cover stitch left needle Orange 25 Threading the cover stitch middle chain stitch needle Blue cccccccccceeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeeteeeeetees 26 Threading the cover stitch right needle Green 28 13 How to Change Threads Tie on Method 30 14 How to Adjust the Stitch length 00 ee 31 15 How to Adjust the Seam width eeeeee 31 Width adjustment by changing needle position 31 Width adjustment with adjustment knob 0 31 16 How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure 32 17 Differential FOG 2 cc csces dice cece eire i 33 Gathered Overedge ccccccseccseceeeeeeeeeeeeeteeeneeees 33 Stretch OVEredGe cccccccceceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaee 34 18 How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife 35 19 To Convert upper Looper to Spreadev 36 To use the Spreadel cccccccceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeteneees 36 To disengage to upper loOpel ceeeeeeeeeeee 36 20 Standard overedge and Rolled Hem Stitching 37 To sew Standard overedge eeceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 37 TO sew rolled NEM ccccccccceeesseeseeeeeceeeeeeteeeeaaeeess 37 Page 21 Chaini
58. t Service Center should any adjustment be required Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of the controller Always use the proper needle plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break Do not use bent needles When sewing keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needles causing them to break For double insulated machines when servicing use only identical replacement parts See instructions for Servicing of Double Insulated Appliances Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into the water Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or Service Center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth Never drop or insert any object into any opening Do not use outdoors Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered Do not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children Do not expose the machine or machine plastic
59. tration and test sew on a sample of your fabric 55 i OS NEEDLE POSITION O00 SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1 2 DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION L Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Underside ATD A Light Weight Tension Dial fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e e Woolly nylon e e e Needle thread ATD C Light Weight Tension Dial fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Polyester e e e Woolly nylon e e e Note For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread e Convert upper looper to spreader See page 36 3 2 thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric 4 2 thread Lower Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance e Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric 56 a Oe NEEDLE POSITION ooo SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1 2 SPREADER USE Lower looper thread DNUANINUAANA NAY A S Needle thread Underside ATD E Light Weight Tension Dial fabric Orange Blue Green Red Brown Woolly nylon Spreader
60. used for seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics It is also ideal for rolled and blind hemming A4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position Two thread Overedge INI 1 needle 2 thread stitch is used for overedging common fabrics It is also ideal for flatlock butted or lapped seams and blind hemming A 4 mm and 6 mm overedge seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position Three thread Overlock ATD A ATD B 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for overedging and seaming on common fabrics A4mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position Three thread Flatlock ATD F 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for butted or lapped seams and ornamental stitching with decorative thread Also a 4mm and 6 mm flatlock width can be obtained by changing the needle position Three thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch ATD G A Ay QY LN 2 needle 3 thread stitch that is ideal for lightweight extremely stretchy fabrics such as tricot and spandex Four thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch l VJA IN ke is SY J 2 needle 4 thread stitch that is ideal for medium to heavyweight stretchy fabrics such as double knits and swim Wear Stitch Type Auto Tension Dial Selected Reference Page 8 Four thread Safety Stitch ATD
61. wing will stabilize the seam e Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot e Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam e The tape is attached as the seam is sewn Braiding by Chaining off e Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position e Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill type through the hole in the front of the foot e Position the filler cord under the foot and chain off the desired length e Chained off braids can be used individually or woven into 3 or 4 ply braids 63 26 MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a conventional machine for two reasons 1 A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives 2 An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts Cleaning the Machine A N Danger Before cleaning your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle e Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush Oiling the Machine AN Danger Before lubricating your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle e The oiling points shown in the diagram should be oiled periodically Note Use only sewing machine oil Do not use any other oil or damage could result 64 Ka AA A CANN A IRA P H

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