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Leena`s.com: PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site

1. Ga ee A e les Ey _ Babies Ladies vol 1 a Lbodice mac cl Lehurt mac L Children Ladies vol 2 i Leollar mac Lekirt mac 2 Demos Lingerie Bi Ldress mac ZJ Ladies jackets Men Youths Ej Ljacket mac Z Ladies pants Misses al Lpants mac L Ladies skirts Lblouse mac Ej Loullow mac Bl Files of type Macro File mac Cancel T Open as read only The program asks different things for different garments single or double breasted with or without sleeve amount of ease etc Choose the options by double clicking on the option or click on the option once and then click lt OK gt Note You have to choose an option in each dialog box If you click lt OK gt or type lt Enter gt without choosing any option the macro stops Next a dialog box for the measurements is opened Instructions for taking the measurements are given later in this tutorial Move from field to field in the dialog box with lt TAB gt key or by clicking the mouse M1 http www leenas com English tutorial html 2 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site LADIES BASIC BODICE 1 of 2 x Heck Circ Bust Circ ERE 37 2 Waist Circ Abdomen Circ 20 71 ard Hip Circ Bust Span 40 16 Dar Bust Height Waist Height 14 49 21 02 Back Length Back Width 16 26 14 8 X conen LADIES BASIC BODICE 2 of 2 X i Shoulder W aist Abdm 531 354 Wf aist Hi Biceps r4
2. hit hte left mouse button right mouse button Vselect the points to be rotated at front piece H1 H1 Accept the selection ht P type fromkeyboard 4 lt Enter gt 1 Clear the screen using command File New Answer No when the program sakes whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Lbodice mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements by clicking lt OK gt and lt OK gt with M1 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 2 Remove the back piece and its darts well as the sleeve and its centerline using the command Edit Erase Choose the command then select the objects to be removed one by one M1 M1 M1 M1 and accept the selection M2 3 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 4 Choose the command Edit Rotate Continue the exercise referring to the picture below EXERCISE 14 Rotating points to make an A line tunic as Sido the same to the corresponding points at back piece notice that the detance to be rotated amp now 4 because the rotation Eto be made clockwe e 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not 2 Run the macro Lshirt mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements offered by clicking lt OK gt and lt OK gt with M1 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key http www leenas
3. Erase the cutting lines Edit http www leenas com English tutorial html 18 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Erase 6 Rotate the pieces of the collar so that the outer edge of the collar opens increases by 2 5 cm at each intersection of the collar edge and the cutting lines Edit Rotate Choose the command select the topmost piece of the collar M1 accept M2 Choose the center point of the rotation as in the picture M1 M2 and type the rotation distance from keyboard 2 5 lt Enter gt Continue to rotate all the collar pieces similarly 7 Finally join the pieces of the collar together into one piece Edit J oin Choose the command select the topmost of the pieces M1 accept M2 and the second from the top M1 M2 Select again the topmost piece which now is a combination of the two joined top pieces M1 M2 and the next piece M1 M2 Join the collar piece by piece in this way Exercise 12 A draped dress 1 Use the dress macro for this exercise File Macro Ldress mac Erase the sleeve the back pieces and the facings Make a mirror copy of the front pieces Edit Mirror CtriF3 Choose the command select the front pieces M1 M1 and accept M2 Then choose as the top end of the reflection line the CF line top the neck vertex M1 and as the bottom end of the reflection line the CF bottom the hem vertex M1 more than two vertices for the line you have to use the polyg
4. select the facing with M1 and accept with M2 Using snap Exercise 24 Drafting facings Red number 1 3 CtriF3 are round point 4 and 6 CtriFe 2 0 Black number 4 5 CtriFe 2 2 P line corner point 1 6 CtriF3 1 7 CtrlF3 Pand 14 CtriF 20 S14 CtrFg ore 6 10 Ctr 22 1 5 ctriF 4 Band 10 CtriF 20 7 9 CtriFe ore 5 E 1 3 CiriFs 4 and 6 CtriF 2 0 SctriFe 2 2 Facings are drafted using two Snap modes Snap to End Point CtriF3 and Snap to Offset CtriF8 Snap to End Point is used to draw along the existing points of the original pattern piece e g points 1 6 of the CF facing in the picture to create the outside edge s of the facing and Snap to Offset is used to draw the points that form the inside edge s e g points 7 11 of the CF facing in the picture Lets assume that you want to draft facings which are 2 wide Select the command Draw Polygon from the main menu Start by clicking with the left mouse button M1 on the vertices that are shared with the original pattern piece and the facing e g points 1 6 of the CF facing in the picture Use snap to end point CtrlF3 Then change the snap mode to Snap to Offset CtriF8 In this snap mode two distances are asked If you want to define a vertex which is 2 from a vertex of the original pattern piece and on the line of the original piece e g point number 7 in the CF facing in the picture e which is 2 from vertex 6 and on the hem line of the original patt
5. there are only lines not arcs You must now change some of the corners to arcs In the pictures the arcs have been drawn with red There are two arcs in the CF facing 1 2 3 and 9 10 11 In the front armscye facing there are two arcs one after another 1 2 3 and 3 4 5 The numbers written in red indicate which points should be round points Use the Round Vertex command on the Point menu to change the appropriate points from corner points to round points Alternate method Rather than going back and converting points after they are drawn you can also create arcs and round points as you draw the polygon After you click on the point preceding the round point change the polygon tool to arc mode by clicking with M2 Choose Arc x from the menu and click on the screen where the round point is to be Then change the polygon tool back to the line mode after clicking on the arc point open the menu with M2 and choose Line Draft other facings correspondingly HINT Why do you want to use a facing for the sleeve cap In jackets and coats you get a perfectly shaped sleeve heads if you use this kind of a facing at the sleeve cap Use thick soft wool fabric for the facing When preparing to sew the sleeve to the armscye set the sleeve and the facing one on top of the other and ease stitch the facing to the sleeve cap Sew one stitch line through both fabrics using the the longest possible machine stitches Steam facing well it will shrink and the sleeve ca
6. without changing to arc mode and change the arc corner points afterwards to Round points with Point Round vertex After you have drafted the front and the back pieces of the overall erase all the original pieces Edit Erase Draw grain lines on the pieces Draw Line CtrlF5 Draw a collar for the overall if you want one You can use the collars macro Before drafting the collar make the neck opening of the overall 1 cm bigger in all directions Point Move vertex This exercise is based on the patterns of the basic sloper and it does not have enough ease at neck for a real garment pattern After making the neck opening bigger measure its length at front and at back Point Set Meas dist and multiply the result by 2 to get the whole neck circumference You will use this measurement in the collars macro In a real designing situation you would not have removed the sleeves at the beginning Please notice that if you want the overall to have sleeves you have to make the armscyes bigger too You have to lower the armscye of the bodice and broaden the sleeve at the armpit by the Same amount This makes the sleeve larger at the armscye Alternatively you can use another macro for the top of the overall e g the blouse macro or the jacket macro These macros already have the needed ease at the neck opening and at the armscyes and the sleeves Using these macros you need to add ease only to the pants part of the overall Exercise 6 Jacket with
7. www leenas com English tutorial html 31 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site intersection of front hem and the lines you just drew radii 3 and 9 cm Draw Circle CtrlF3 3 a Draw the right side wrap piece as in the picture using the existing points of the right side and dart points of the skirt and the intersection of the 9 cm circle with the right vertical guide line 3 b Draw the left side wrap piece as in the picture using the existing points of the left side and dart points of the skirt and the intersection of the 3 cm circle and the left vertical guide line Fading Wer Fro naht vrap GF 3 a Note that in the side seam from hip to waist there is an arc the top hip abdomen point is a round vertex You can change this vertex to a round vertex afterwards Point Round vertex or you can when you come to this point change the polygon tool to the arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 and choosing from the menu Arc x When you have finished the arc change the polygon tool back to line mode M2 Line When drawing the wrap pieces be sure to draw one vertex at the waist CF to be able to draw the center line later using this vertex Erase all the guide circles Edit Erase 4 Draw 7 cm wide facings at the edges of the wrap pieces a Draw a vertical guide line from the top of the front edge of the right side wrap piece as in the picture Draw Line CtriF3
8. 2 0 lt Enter gt 3 a Make a mirror copy of the back piece so it faces in the same direction as the pants back piece Edit Mirror Choose the command select the piece to be mirrored back piece M1 accept M2 Then give as the top point of the line to be reflected across the CB neck point M1 and as the bottom point of the line to be reflected against M1 Erase the original back piece Edit Erase b In order to add ease to the back piece move the points marked in the picture 2 cm to the right the same way you moved the points in the front piece Point Move vertex Use a selection window as illustrated in the picture http www leenas com English tutorial html 9 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site selection selection windo window 4 Now start designing the pants part of the overall Run the pants macro File Macro Lpants mac Erase center lines pocket mouth line waist band and the zipper extension Edit Erase 5 Add to the front and the back pants 2 cm ease in the same way you did in the top parts Point Move vertex Use a selection window illustrated in the picture 6 a Move the top back piece to touch the pants back piece so that their CB waist points lie on top of each other Edit Move CtriF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved back top piece M1 accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the CB waist vertex of the top M1 and as the destination of t
9. 3 lt Enter gt 3 Using the vertices of the waist and the guide lines draw the pattern pieces for the raised waist Draw Poly Ctrl F3 4 To draw waist facings copy the pattern pieces for the raised waist above the skirt pieces Edit Copy Move the pieces of the facings adjacent to each other Edit Move CtrIF3 Choose the command then select the piece to be moved M1 accept M2 Give as the starting point of the move one of the edge points of the piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the edge point of the other piece where you want the pieces to meet M1 Join the facing pieces Edit J oin After choosing the command select one of the pieces to be joined M1 accept M2 Then select the piece next to it M1 M2 Continue joining pieces one at a time selecting the piece which you just joined M1 M2 and then the piece the be joined with it M1 M2 ARN Radius 10 cm Round vertex 5 Join skirt pieces and the pieces for the raised waist To round the corner of the center front pieces at the hem add vertices on the CF line at a distance of 10 cm from the hem and at the hem line at a distance of 10 cm from CF use snap to measured distance CtrIF9 or draw guide circles with a radius of 10 cm Finally change the center front point of the hem to round point Point Round vertex Working with points Exercise 5 Drafting patterns for an overall 1 a First make preparations for the top part of the overall and run the b
10. CtrlF5 LJ h aj bi b Copy this line 7 cm to the right and to the left use command Edit Copy select the line to be copied M1 and accept M2 Type as the base point of the move 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination point of the move 7 0 lt Enter gt Then select the same line and type as the base point of the move 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination point of the move 7 0 lt Enter gt c Draw a help line starting at the intersection of the left line and the hem and from there horizontally CtriF5 to and across the edge of the piece as in the picture Use command Draw Line choose as the starting base point of the line the intersection of the left line CtriF7 and the hem change to snap to ortho CtriF5 move the mouse and click when you have moved across the right side guide line Draw similar guide lines for the left wrap piece 5 Draw wrap pieces with facings along the vertices of the existing wrap pieces and the intersections of the outer vertical line and the horizontal help line Draw Poly Move wrap pieces with facings to a blank place on the screen Erase the help lines and the wrap pieces without facings Edit Erase http www leenas com English tutorial html 32 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 6 Add seam allowances to the wrap pieces Draw Seam Allowance Give as the seam width 4 cm for the hems O cm for the front edges and 1 cm for all other edges
11. and the back pieces The whole circumference is thus decreased by 8 cm i e the ease that has originally been added to the body measurements in the basic bodice patterns Decrease the ease by moving points Point Move vertex Choose all the vertices that are to be moved in the same direction at one time M1 M1 M1 accept M2 Give as the base point of the move 0 0 from keyboard and as the destination point of the move 2 0 moving to the right or 2 0 moving to the left lt Enter gt Move the back piece and its waist dart to touch the front piece at the armpit vertex Edit Move Use snap to end point CtriF3 to be exact Draw a circle with 8 cm radius and center point at the bust apex and a circle with 2 cm radius and center point at the joint armpit vertex of the front and the back pieces Draw Circle CtriF3 Choose the center point of the circles and type the radius from keyboard 8 or 2 lt Enter gt 2 Draw the corset patterns according to the picture along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtriIF3 Round points corner points of an arc have been marked with R in the picture Draw the shoulder straps Draw Line or Draw Poly Erase the guide circles http www leenas com English tutorial html 6 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Exercise 3 Draftin atterns for hood 1 Measure the neck circumference of the garment not your neck circumference Divide it by 2 R Round
12. com English tutorial html 21 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 3 Erase the sleeve and its centerline as well as the collar and the cuff pieces using the command Edit Erase Select the objects to be erased one by one M1 M1 And accept the selection M2 4 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 5 Choose the command Point Rotate vertex Continue the exercise according to the picture below Exercise 15 From tailored collar to shawl collar 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro Mowe the collarso that Joi il d t t touches the center front piece FaR pieces E ditiloin ra b PON H fr a Base point of H f the moving ey Pi a r Destination of loy o the mowing Use snap to end point lt Ctri F3 gt to be exact 2 Erase all other pieces except the CF piece and the collar Choose the command Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept M2 3 Erase all other pieces except the CF piece and the collar Choose the command Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept M2 4 Move the collar so that it touches the CF piece as in picture Choose the command Edit Move Select the collar M1 accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the collar point which
13. end points of the line The line must begin exactly at the bust point and therefore you should use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt 5 Cut the front side piece with the line you drew Edit Cut After choosing the command select the side piece M1 and accept M2 Then select the cutting line M1 M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen to see that the cut was made successfully You should see the words Calculating Done 6 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase Choose the command then select the line M1 and accept the selection M2 7 Rotate the bottom part of the side piece so that the shoulder bust dart is closed Choose the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 point the center base and destination points M1 M1 M1 8 Rotate the bottom part of the side piece so that the shoulder bust dart is closed Choose the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 point the center base and destination points M1 M1 M1 NOTE When using the cutting the command Edit Cut you always have to select the piece to be cut first and the piece to cut with second Exercise 18 Drafting a raglan sleeve P i 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Erase the center line of the sleeve Edit Erase Move the front and back shoulder http www leenas com English tutorial html 25 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site darts temporarily to
14. is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 and as the destination point of the move the point of CF piece which is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 Use snap to end point to be exact lt Ctrl F3 gt 5 Join the collar to the CF piece after choosing the command Edit Join select the collar M1 accept M2 and select the CF piece M1 accept M2 6 If you want to you can remove the angle in the shawl collar by deleting the points in it Choose the command Point Delete vertex Select the points to be removed M1 accept M2 HINT Even if the outer edge of the shawl collar can be seen without joining the pieces it is usually wise to join the pieces This way it is much easier to draw seam allowances around the pieces Exercise 16 From jacket to A line jacket http www leenas com English tutorial html 22 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site lL Fa ea a E howe front pieces side by side Mowe back pieces side by side Destination of rotation Fd Base of rotation of rota p Rotate shoulder darts until closed ieee d ho Delete points of hem dart PointDelete vertex http www leenas com English tutorial html 23 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site and close the objects EdtClose obj 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run
15. line and hem CtrlF7 M1 Move the other help polygon similarly now to the line drawn down from the back armscye The base point of the move is now the intersection CtrIF7 of the line down from the back waist dart with the hem line and the destination of the move is the intersection of the line drawn down from the back armscye with the hem line 4 Draw the new shapes of the front back and side pieces following the existing points Draw Poly CtriF3 Draw the front center and the front side pieces as two separate pieces Draw the back piece as one piece with a shoulder dart Draw the side panel in one piece Picture 2b and picture 3 Picture 4 5 The shapes of the pieces are not quite satisfactory The back piece does not curve enough at the waist compared with the front piece The side panel is somewhat distorted Therefore move the waist vertices of the pieces as shown in the picture the waist vertices of the front side and the back pieces simultaneously to the right and the waist vertices of the side panel simultaneously to the left Point Move vertex You can do this by eye First use the snap to end point CtriIF3 to select the vertices to be moved and then snap to ortho CtriF5 to move the vertices horizontally When moving the points in this way in pairs the move of the points does not change the waist circumference of the garment Picture 4 Draw a cutting line on the front side piece at the top hip abdomen level
16. of the rotation is any point on the screen M1 Move the mouse and click M1 again when you are satisfied with the distance of the rotation the front and the back hips meet http www leenas com English tutorial html 35 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 1 ound point Scaling factors x 0 5 y 09 3J http www leenas com English tutorial html 36 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 3 Draft the leggings pattern by tracing along the existing points of the front and the back piece Draw Poly CtriF3 Use F5 to display the existing points As you draw skip over the waist darts and the waist side curve at the center front and at the center back Also make the curve a little deeper at the thigh and the knee area deactivate snap CtrlF1 for this Note too that there are arc points in the patterns These points determine the shapes of curves You recognize arc points by looking for the green points which do not lie on a line but beside it When you come to this kind of a point in the drawing change the polygon tool to the arc mode M2 Arc x click on the arc point and then change back to the line mode after the arc M2 Line If you find this difficult you can draw the object with corner points and change the points needed to round points after you have finished drawing the object Point Round vertex 4 Move the leggings pattern to anot
17. piece goes along the turning line of the lapel and continues from there as a tangent line across the collar Because this line has more than two points you cannot use the Line drawing tool Use the Draw Polygon tool Choose the first point of the polygon somewhere outside the CF piece look at the picture M1 Choose the following points of the line polygon at the bottom edge of the turning line for the lapel M1 and at the top edge of the turning line for the lapel M1 Open the drop down menu for the polygon with M2 and choose from it Tangent Line a line which continues in the same direction as the previous segment of the polygon M1 Finally place the last point of the cutting line outside the collar M1 Pan the view using the arrow keys in keyboard if you need to ka d KuvalPicture 3 5 Cut the collar and the CF piece with the line you just drew Use the command Edit Cut Select the collar M1 and accept it M2 Select the cutting line M1 accept M2 It is easiest to select a line near its end point Select the CF piece M1 accept M2 Select the cutting line M1 accept M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen to see that the cut really has taken place you should see Calculating done 6 Remove the cutting line Use the command Edit Erase Select the line M1 and accept the selection M2 7 Mirror the small pieces of the collar and the lapel you just cut on top of the front piece Use the comma
18. screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ldress mac File Macro Erase the sleeve and its centerline as well as all facings After choosing the command Edit Erase select the objects to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept selection M2 2 Choose the command Point Rotate Vertex Select the points of the CF piece to be rotated M1 M1 M1 look at the caption These points have been rotated in the picture below Then select the center point of the rotations at the waist point of the piece M1 refer to the picture Choose the hem point as the base point of the rotation M1 Type as the distance or end point of the rotation from keyboard 2 and press lt Enter gt 3 Continue as in the picture and rotate the corresponding points of other pattern pieces Please note that the points of the CF and CB lines are not rotated http www leenas com English tutorial html 28 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site NOTE When you rotate the points of both sides of a pattern piece the hem rises to the level where the hem points will be after the rotation Therefore it is necessary at least when the amount of the rotation is large to add a new point to hem between the hem points which are to be rotated This new point remains on the correct hemline after the rotation To be able to curve the hem you also need to add additional ne
19. the macro Ljacket mac File Macro 2 Move the front and the back pieces so that they touch at the hem Edit Move The base and destination points of the move have been marked in the picture 3 Rotate the shoulder bust dart of the front piece until it is closed Edit Rotate The center base and destination points of the rotation have been marked in the picture Use the snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact Rotate the back shoulder dart in the same way to close it 4 Join the front and the back pieces so that you get a single front and back piece Choose the command Edit J oin Select one of the pieces to be joined M1 accept M2 Select the other piece to be joined M1 accept M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen You should see calculating done Sometimes it may happen that the program cannot join pieces whose edges just touch In such a situation delete one or more of the overlapping segments from one of the pieces or both Point Delete Segment Select the segment you want to delete M1 accept M2 Note that there should be two segments together one from each object 5 Delete the points of the hem dart which appeared when you joined the pieces Point Delete Vertex Select the points to be deleted one by one M1 M1 M1 accept the selection M2 6 After you have deleted the points if the piece has an open section at the hem close it using the command Edit Close Obj Select the piec
20. to add length to the collar edge Select the piece to be rotated in the picture it is the right side piece M1 accept M2 Choose the point to rotate about with M1 marked in the picture the starting base point of the rotation also marked in the picture and finally type 5 3 from keyboard Draw the new shape of the collar along the existing vertices of the collar pieces Draw Poly If needed you can correct the shape of the new collar by moving points manually Point Move vertex Exercise 8 Changing the styling of a tailored collar 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro KuvalPicture 1 KuyvalPicture 2 2 Remove all other pattern pieces except for the collar and the CF piece of the jacket Edit Erase Do not remove the turning line for the lapel 3 Move collar so that it touches the CF piece choose the command Edit Move Select the collar M1 accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the point of the collar which is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 and as the destination point of the move the point of the CF piece marked with an arrow in the picture M1 Use snap to end point to be exact lt Ctrl F3 gt http www leenas com English tutorial html 14 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 4 Draw a cutting line which starts from outside of the CF
21. upper part of the center front piece the lower part of the center front piece and the front side piece Draw the back piece also in three separate pieces i e the upper part of the center back piece and the lower part of the center back piece and the back side piece d A 8 Rotate the upper part of the center front piece to close the temporary dart at the CF Edit Rotate CtriF3 Choose the command select the object to be rotated the upper part of the center front piece M1 accept M2 Choose the dart apex as the point to rotate about M1 the upper vertex of the dart at the CF line as the starting point of the rotation M1 and the lower vertex of the dart at the CF as the destination point of the rotation M1 Rotate accordingly the upper part of the center back piece to close the temporary dart at the CB and to move it to the shoulder Join the front and back center pieces together into whole pieces Exercise 19 A line dress by rotating points http www leenas com English tutorial html 27 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Center of rotation hese points have been rotated I about the point Base of rotation amp o o sEnter and d tance 2 lt Enter gt Rotate points of other pieces corespoandinghy Be sure to gwe the rotation detance negative i mhen the the rotation amp clockwise After the rotation you can delete top hip and hip points of allsearme 1 Clear the
22. 0 fi 1 81 Wrist Circ Overarm 7 28 foto Length from Waist Seam Allowance F48 E X cua After having answered to all the questions and given the measurements the program drafts all pattern pieces for the selected garment on the screen Wait until the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow If you cannot see the patterns at all or you see only part of them type the lt END gt key on your keyboard Then the screen is zoomed so that you can see the entire pattern Note When you want to try another macro clear the screen by choosing the command File New from the main menu Click the word File in the menu bar at the top of the screen with M1 and then the word New with M1 Usually you will answer No when the program askes whether you want to save the file or not If you want to add seam allowances to the patterns type the wanted width of seam allowance to its place in the measurements dialog box If you want your patterns to have no seam allowance type 0 zero as its value After having ran the macro you can use the command Draw Offset from the Draw menu After choosing the command select all the pieces one by one with M1 and accept the selection with M2 Using the command Draw Seam Allowance you can add a seam allowance of varying width to different edges of the pattern Please refer to the User s manual to learn more about this Layers In the black drawing area there are many layers superimposed one ove
23. 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 2 a Move the two front pieces and the two back pieces together so that they touch at the hem Edit Move choose the command select the front side piece M1 and accept the selection M2 Choose as the base point of the move the leftmost hem point of the front side piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the rightmost hem point of the center front piece Shown in the picture Use snap to end point CtrIF3 to be exact Move the back pieces the same way so that they touch each other at hem Draw a cutting line from the front shoulder bust apex to and across the front armscye Draw Line and from the back shoulder dart apex to and across the back armscye Be sure to use Snap to endpoint to be exact CtriF3 Cut the front and back side pieces with the lines you drew Use command Edit Cut Select the piece to be cut M1 accept M2 then select the piece to cut with the cutting line M1 accept M2 2 b Rotate the top pieces which you cut so that the shoulder darts are closed Edit Rotate CtrilF3 having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated M1 accept M2 Then select the point to be rotated about the dart apex point and the base and the destination point of the rotation M1 M1 M1 refer to the picture 3 a Draw the front and back pieces of the overcoat along the existing points Draw Poly CtriF3 Type F5 to see the points If you need to correct the shape
24. 4 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Method 3 Drafting the collar along the grid points of the screen Set the grid spacing to 1 cm using the command Misc Grid Activate snap to grid typing CtriF2 You show and hide the grid by typing F4 Select the starting point of the collar A anywhere on the screen M1 Notice that as you are using snap to grid CtrIF2 the cursor moves from grid point to grid point Select the rest of the points with mouse M1 going along the grid points as follows point B count 5 points from point A to the left and click with mouse M1 then change to arc mode M2 Arc x point C count 10 points from point B to the left M1 point D count 10 points to the left and 3 points down M1 change back to line mode M2 Line point E count 5 points to the right and 6 points down M1 change to arc mode M2 Arc x point F count 5 points to the right M1 point G count 5 points to the right and 1 5 points up please notice that as we are using a grid 1x1 cm there isn t any grid point here Therefore deactivate snap to grid CtriFl select the point by eye and activate snap to grid again CtrlF2 point H count 5 points to the right and 1 5 points up point J count 5 points to the right M1 and finish M2 Done closed Exercise 2 Patters for corset from basic bodice patterns R round point 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Decrease 2 cm of ease on the front
25. CF and to CB First draw cutting lines from the dart apexes to and across the CF and CB lines A B and C D Draw Line CtrIF3 Cut the center front piece and the back piece with the cutting lines Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut center front or back piece M1 accept M2 Then select the object to cut with cutting line M1 accept M2 Cut the other piece the same way Cut the sleeve into two pieces Draw a cutting line upon the sleeve starting from the center point of the sleeve cap and ending at the vertex which is at the center of the sleeve cuff Draw Line CtrIF3 If needed make the vertices visible with F5 After having drawn the line cut the Sleeve with it Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut the sleeve M1 accept M2 and the object to cut with line M1 accept M2 2 Radius 0 1 cm Erase all cutting lines 2 Rotate the upper piece of the center front piece and the upper piece of the back piece until the shoulder darts are closed Edit Rotate CtriF3 Choose the command select the object to be rotated M1 accept M2 Then point the vertex to rotate about the dart apex M1 and the base point of the rotation at front the left side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder and at back the right side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder M1 Finally point the destination point of the rotation at front the right side vertex of the shoulder dart at th
26. Draw Line CtrIF3 CtriF5 The line must extend over both edges of the piece Picture 5 Picture 5 Picture 6 Cut the side piece with the line Edit Cut Choose the command first choose the object to be cut the side panel M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with the cutting line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase Rotate the topmost piece of the front side pieces so that the shoulder dart is closed Edit Rotate CtriF3 Picture 6 In this kind of a jacket the pocket is positioned on this cutting line After you have sewn the front waist dart close the cutting line temporarily with zigzag stitches Iron a strip of interfacing to its wrong side When fastening the pocket you will cut the pocket mouth along this line If you are sewing a patch pocket position it so that the cutting line is hidden under the pocket Exercise 7 Making a collar wider http www leenas com English tutorial html 12 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Visible part ofthe collar 4 em Collar stand em raise at neck In order to make the collar wider you also have to lengthen the outer edge of the collar Otherwise it does not have enough space to lie flat on the back piece at the neck Tailored collar in the PatternMaker macros is 7 cm wide The raise at the neck is 3 cm and the visible part of the collar is 4 cm The aim of this exercise is to broaden the collar with 3 cm Wh
27. Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Erg Home page Suomeksi About Leena s Contact Site Map i Welcome to Leena s com Use Site Map This web site contains hundreds of pages of information To find what you need quickly please Welcome to Leena s com the tutorial and pattern drafting site for PatternMaker Drafting Sofware for PC In this site you will find tutorials pattern drafting instructions sewing instructions and many other sewing projects use the Please Enjoy Site Map Learning PatternMaker Software Manufacturers and Center e as Tutorials For PatternMaker software manufacturers and dealers Measuring please go to the Pattermaker website at Sewing instructions http www patternmaker com Sewing projects Pattern drafting Site Map Contact Tutorial Quick guide User s Manual Grading In this tutorial PatternMaker basics have not been touched We presume that you have gone through the information given in the User s Manual which you have gotten with the program delivery All exercises in this tutorial are real life design cases which can be used with or without PatterMaker So doing or viewing these exercises you will learn something about designing garments too After having done the exercises you will be able to apply your new skills to make your own designs For pedagocic reasons the exercises in this tutorial have been grouped according to PatternMaker editing commands There are of
28. a side panel 1 Run the jacket macro File Macro Ljacket mac Move the pieces so that they touch each other at hem Edit Move CtrIF3 a Draw vertical lines starting at the vertices on the armscye lines as in the picture and ending outside down from hem Draw Line Picture 1a Use snap to end point CtriF3 to grab the armscye vertices and then snap to ortho CtriF5 to draw vertical lines 2 Draw a polygon around the area between the side seams of the front and the back piece Draw Poly CtrIF3 Picture 1b Go along the existing vertices and use snap to end point CtrIF3 At the waist of the side seam there are three vertices the center one is a round vertex You need not draw all these vertices just draw one line point at the center vertex as in the picture In the same way draw a polygon around the back waist dart Draw Poly CtriF3 Picture 1c http www leenas com English tutorial html 11 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site aa Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 3 Move the polygons horizontally so that their new positions are on the lines that you drew down from the armscyes Edit Move CtrlF3 Picture 2a Choose the Move command select the polygon drawn between the side seams M1 accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the joint hem point of the front and the back piece CtriF3 M1 and as the destination point of the move the intersection CtrlF7 of the vertical
29. asic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Erase all other pattern pieces but the front and the back pieces Do not erase the back dart piece Use command Edit Erase select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept and execute the command with M2 b Draw a line to cut the pieces at the waist level as in the picture Draw Line CtrilF3 Start the line at the CF waist point and end at the CB waist point Then cut the pieces with the line Edit Cut Choose the command select the CF piece M1 accept M2 then select the cutting line M1 accept and execute the command M2 Cut the same way also the front side piece and the back piece as well as the back dart piece Erase the cutting lines and all pieces under the waist level Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept the selection and execute the command with M2 http www leenas com English tutorial html 8 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 14 1b Fe 2om Destination 2b zal Dase l Selection window Point to rotate about zZ cm Selection window 2 a Start designing the front pieces Draw a cutting line on the front side piece as in the picture Draw Line starting from the bust apex CtriIF3 and ending outside the side seam Cut the front side piece with the line Edit Cut Choose the command select the piece to be cut the front side piece M1 ac
30. center line Edit Erase Picture 2 Rotation distance 5 Cm Type 5 J Rotation distance 5 Cm Type 5 3 k Center point of 3al Center oir af a pote 2 a Draw lines to cut the sleeve with Refer to the picture 2 b You must draw the left side line using the polygon tool pencil icon or Draw Poly Open because it needs to contain three vertices Draw the polygon through the apex of the elbow dart CtriIF3 to snap to the apex 2 c Cut the sleeve in turn with each of these lines Edit Cut choose the command select the object to be cut sleeve M1 accept M2 and then the cutting object line M1 accept M2 http www leenas com English tutorial html 16 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 3 Round point Found point 4 Arc 3 a rotate the leftmost new piece of the sleeve counterclockwise use command Edit Rotate select the piece M1 accept M2 choose the Starting base point of the rotation M1 and the point to be rotated about M1 marked in the picture and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard 5 lt Enter gt 3 b rotate the rightmost new piece of the sleeve clockwise use command Edit Rotate When typing the distance from the keyboard type 5 lt Enter gt The negative number means the rotation is to be made clockwise 4 Move the center piece of the sleeve 6 cm up Edit Move choose the command select the piece to be moved
31. cept M2 and then the piece to cut with cutting line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase b Rotate the top part of the front side piece to close the bust shoulder dart and to open it to the side seam Edit Rotate Choose the command select the piece to be rotated top piece of the front side piece M1 accept M2 Select the point to rotate about it is marked in the picture bust apex M1 then select the base point of the rotation also marked in the picture M1 and finally the destination point of the rotation M1 c Join the front pieces together into one piece Edit J oin Choose the command select the CF piece M1 accept M2 then select the top side piece M1 accept M2 Finally select the piece you joined M1 accept M2 and the remaining bottom part of the side piece M1 accept M2 Add ease to the front piece by moving the vertices as in the picture i e 2 cm to the right Choose command Point Move vertex Select the points to be moved with a selection window it is shown in the picture The selection window is activated by the selection window icon or typing W from the keyboard after you have chosen the move vertex command Choose the left top corner of the selection window with M1 move the mouse and point the right bottom corner of the selection window with M1 refer to the picture Accept the selection with M2 Then type as the base point of the move 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination point of the move
32. ck shoulder point radius 10 and the front neck CF point radius 14 cm Draw Circle CtriF3 14 lt Enter gt Using the guide circles draw the shape of the front collar Draw Poly CtriF3 Refer to the picture Notice that there are arcs and lines in the collar In the picture the arc corner points round points are marked with letter R When you come to the starting point of an arc change the polygon tool to arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 and choosing the option Arc X 2 Draw guide circles Draw Circle CtrIF3 and the shape of the back collar on the back piece Draw Poly CtrlF3 Correct shape 5 A if needed Bese polit of rotation Point to rotate 3 Move the front and the back collar so that they touch each other at their joint shoulder vertex as in the picture Edit Move CtrlF3 Rotate the back collar so that you get a joined collar Edit Rotate CtriF3 The center base and destination points have been marked in the picture 4 Join the pieces Edit J oin If needed correct the shape of the collar in the place which is marked in the picture with an arrow by moving a point Point Move vertex 5 Draw cutting lines on the collar Draw Line Cut the collar with the lines Edit Cut Choose the command select the piece to be cut the collar M1 M2 and then the piece to cut with the line M1 M2 Then cut the remaining pieces of the collar with the remaining cutting lines similarly
33. course many commands which are used in each exercise but in all exercises there is one command in which we want you to pay special attention to There is no special order in which you should do the exercises You can pick any of them to start according to your personal preferences Use the links below to move to a certain exercise in this document What are the macros Each macro is a little computer program that draws a particular pattern based on measurements you give it These patterns are made up of polygon objects which can be modified like any other objects in your drawing PatternMaker macros were programmed in Finland and they are based on the Scandinavian Pattern drafting method They have been thoroughly tested in commercial and school use There is a very important benefit of the Scandinavian pattern drafting system All the measurements you have to take are unambiguous and easy to take There is no need to take cross measurements from shoulder tip to CF or CB which are quite difficult to take Front and back circumferences are measured as one and bust waist abdomen or hip circumference are not measured separately at front and at back The length of the side seam is not measured The PatternMaker macros have been programmed by a pattern drafting professional i e an end user of the program like you So she was able when writing the macros to test all the options of the macros by sewing the garments for herself A macro is a smal
34. e to be closed M1 and accept the selection M2 Exercise 17 Moving a dart to another place Destination of rotation Base of rotation Center ofi rotation y I i i 4 j T _ Mowe fron pies es Rotate shoulder dart side by side Edit Move until closed Edit Rotate http www leenas com English tutorial html 24 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site E n a fl 4 J i 4 Cebhter of Cutting ing _ rotation i Z i 4 Base of j rotation Draw cutting line Rotate bottom part of from bust apex across Side piece so that its side seam Draw Line hem point touches the hem point of the center and cutthe frontside front piece EditRotate seam with the line Edit Cut 1 Continue from where you left off in the previous exercise 2 Move the front pieces to that they touch at hem Choose the command Edit Move Select the piece to be moved M1 accept M2 Choose the base and destination points marked in the picture below M1 M1 Use snap to end point to be exact lt Ctrl F3 gt 3 Rotate the front shoulder bust dart until closed After choosing the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 choose the center base and destination points of the rotation as marked in the picture below M1 M1 M1 4 Draw a line from the bust point apex across the front side seam After choosing the command Draw Line Use M1 to enter the
35. e piece to be mirrored M1 and accept the selection M2 5 Choose one end of the mirror line at the CF point of the neck opening M1 and the other end at the CF point of the hip M1 use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact 6 Move the mirrored facing piece 4 cm to the left to form a button extension choose the command Edit Move select the facing piece M1 and accept the selection M2 7 Type as the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt and as destination point 4 0 lt Enter gt 8 Move the center front points of the center front piece 2 cm to the left choose the command Point Move Vertex select all points on the CF line M1 M1 M1 M1 M1 Accept the selection M2 Type from keyboard the base point of the move as 0 0 lt Enter gt and the destination of the move as 2 0 lt Enter gt 9 Move corresponding points on the CF line of the facing 2 cm to the right The command Point Move Vertex will repeat so you don t need to http www leenas com English tutorial html 33 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site choose it again Select the CF points of the facing M1 M1 M1 M1 M1 and accept the selection M2 choose as the base point of the move the CF hem point of the facing M1 and as the destination point of the move the CF hem point of the CF piece M1 10 Join the CF piece and the facing choose the command Edit J oin select the CF piece with M1 accept with M2
36. e shoulder and at back the left side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder M1 3 a Measure the distance between vertices E and F the armscye curve at front Use the dimension tool Draw Dimension CtrIF3 Choose the command select one end of the distance to be measured E M1 and then the other end of the distance to be measured F M1 Move the mouse and click the place where you want the distance to be displayed In the picture the distance is 8 1 cm On the back piece there is a similar vertex with similar distance from the back armpit vertex b Draw guide circles with a radius of 8 1 cm with the center points at the armpit vertices as in the picture Draw Circle CtriF3 Choose the command point at the center point of the circle and then type the radius from the keyboard 8 1 lt Enter gt Add new vertices at the intersection of the circles and the armscye lines Point Add vertex Having chosen the command select the arc where the new vertex is to be added at the armscye M1 accept M2 Choose the position of the new vertex using snap to intersection CtriF7 We mark these vertices with letters G and H 4 Move the front left half of the sleeve to a place where vertex F of the front piece and vertex G of the front sleeve are one on top of the other Use command Edit Move and snap to endpoint CtriF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved the left half of the Sleeve M1 and accept M2 Point with M1 verte
37. ece Notice that one cutting line has to go through the bust apex Use snap to end point CtrIF3 to be exact Cut the piece with the lines that you drew Edit Cut 5 a Rotate the pieces so that the dart which was moved to the armscye is closed and so that b each intersection of the cutting lines is opened to 5 cm The center and base points of the rotation have been marked in the picture The distance of the rotation is given by typing from the keyboard 5 lt Enter gt Rotating points and objects Please refer to the User s Manual to get more information about rotating points and objects Memorize this rule for rotating objects and points Click the mouse as follows M1 selection of the objects points to be rotated M2 accepting the selection M1 center point M1 base point M1 destination point i e M1 M2 M1 M1 M1 or M1 M2 M1 M1 distance lt Enter gt or M1 M2 M1 angle lt Enter gt EXERCISE 13 Rotating an object to close the bust dart 1 Select front side piece to be rotated hit 2 accept the selection ht Fj pointbase of rotation hid RIS 5 point destination of rotation hid A Rotating objects par http www leenas com English tutorial html 20 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site an 3 point center of rotation hid 2 point center of Use snap to end point rotation hli lt Cti FS to be exact q 3 point base of rotation hid
38. en this has been done the visible part of the collar will be 7 cm Collar drawn with the macro acm collar stand raise at neck Collar width visible part dcm visible part of collar added to cm CTTI Collar edge on top of back bodice 12 6 cm Collar edge on top of back bodice 17 9 cm Difference 5 3 cm As seen in the picture the new length of the outer edge of the collar at back is 17 9 cm which is 5 3 cm longer than the outer edge of the original collar So you have to lengthen the outer edge of the collar with 5 3 cm To draw the above picture 1 draw the collar stand from the neck shoulder point 3 cm upwards 2 draw the original height of the visible part of the collar from top edge of the collar stand to the shoulder line use guide circle 3 draw the new height of the visible part of the collar from top edge of the collar stand to the shoulder line Rotate http www leenas com English tutorial html 13 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 4 draw arcs starting from the intersection of the visible part of the collar and the shoulder line to the center back seam 5 Measure the lengths of the arcs i e collar back edges in both situation Point Set Meas dist Draw a cutting line across the collar Draw Line Cut the collar with the line Edit Cut Select the collar M1 accept M2 then select the line M1 accept M2 Then rotate one cut piece of the collar in order
39. ern piece type as the distances 2 and O or O and 2 the order of the distances does not matter and click lt OK gt Move the mouse cursor near point 6 You will notice that you have a choice of 4 vertices which are all 2 from point 6 and on a line or an extension of the line forming the original pattern piece When you move the mouse the cursor blinks as a yellow cross on these 4 points Choose the point that corresponds to point 7 in the picture 3 Points 8 10 are not on a line of the original pattern piece So you have to change both of Smee Us E BRE RUU EE the snap distances to 2 To do this type CtriF8 enter 2 for both distances and click lt OK gt Now move the mouse cursor upwards from point 7 You will notice that the cursor Distance jumps to a point offset from point 5 Click here to mark point 8 Continue upwards and click to create points 9 and 10 Change the snap distances again to 2 and O type CtrIF8 and click to create point 11 Distance Cancel Now you have finished marking the points and it s time to close this polygon object Open the menu for the polygon tool by clicking with the right mouse button M2 Close the polygon by choosing Done closed from the menu http www leenas com English tutorial html 34 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Note that the facings in the drawings above are formed of arcs and lines In the facing you drew in the preceding steps however
40. hange the polygon tool to the X arc mode M2 Arc x When you have finished the arc remember to change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line If you make a mistake you can undo it and try again M2 Undo last point If you find this difficult you can draw the collar first with all straight lines and change the arc corner points later to round points Point Round vertex Please note that there is not a point already drawn in the place where you have to draw point G To place this point use snap to intersection CtriF7 Change your snap mode back to snap to end point CtriF3 after you draw this point because snap to intersection will slow your computer down Method 2 Drafting the collar by typing points in from the keyboard Here you are entering exactly the same points as with Method 1 but without the frame to guide you Select the starting point of the collar A anywhere on the screen M1 and type other points from the keyboard as follows point B 5 0 lt Enter gt change the polygon tool to arc mode M2 Arc x point C 10 0 lt Enter gt point D 10 3 lt Enter gt change the polygon tool back to line mode M2 Line point E 5 6 lt Enter gt change to arc mode M2 Arc x point F 5 0 lt Enter gt point G 5 1 5 lt Enter gt point H 5 1 5 lt Enter gt point J 5 0 lt Enter gt finish M2 Done closed http www leenas com English tutorial html 5 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 2
41. he move the CB waist point of the back pant M1 b Rotate the top piece so that its waist is on the back pants waist Edit Rotate CtriF3 After having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated the top piece M1 accept M2 Choose the CB waist vertex of the top piece as the center point of the rotation the point to be rotated about M1 the waist side vertex of the top as the base point of the rotation M1 and the the waist side vertex of the pant as the destination of the rotation M1 These points are marked in the picture 6a c To add vertical ease at the waist of the overall move the back top piece 2 cm up Edit Move Choose the command select the piece to be moved back top M1 and accept M2 Give as the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination of the move 0 2 lt Enter gt Bib Fal Rotate Base ination d Rotate the back top so that you get an additional vertical ease at the CB waist Edit Rotate After having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated back top M1 and accept M2 Give the side vertex of the top waist as the center point of the rotation M1 and the CB vertex of the top waist as the base point of the rotation and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard 2 the distance is a negative number because the rotation is to be done clockwise lt Enter gt The points are marked in the picture 6c 7 a Now move the front top piece so tha
42. her place Remove the original pattern pieces Draw the grain line for the leggings pattern Draw Line Use snap to midpoint CtriF6 to place the line exactly on the midpoints of the waist and the cuff Hold the mouse still and wait for the cursor to stop moving before you click on the midpoint Calculating midpoints while the mouse is moving is a lot of work for your computer s processor so it may be slow to respond when you are in snap to midpoint mode If you find it difficult to keep the cursor in its place you can instead of clicking the mouse on the midpoint accept the point by typing lt Enter gt with your other hand 5 Resize the pattern according to the elasticity of the fabric you are going to use Edit Resize Let us assume that your fabric stretches 20 horizontally and 10 vertically then the scaling factors which the program asks would be x 0 8 and y 0 9 Choose the command select the object to be resized M1 and accept M2 Then type from keyboard F for scaling factor Type in the dialog box 0 8 as the x scaling factor and 0 9 as the y scaling factor and click lt OK gt 6 If you want to sew bike shorts shorten the legs according to your wishes Draw two circles to use as guides in drawing the cutting lines If you want the shorts to be 20 cm long from the crotch use circles with a radius of 20 cm Position the center points of the circles at the front and back crotch points Draw Circle CtriF3 M1 Type in 20 l
43. hion patterns and your own designs If you feel you want to learn more just wait In the near future we shall launch the advanced lessons with at least 20 design exercises With these new lessons you ll not only learn to use PatternMaker even more effectively but also a lot of design techniques BH Home page HH Suomeksi About Leena s Contact Leenas com is a subsidiary of PatternMaker Software USA Copyright 1998 2006 Leena L hteenm ki PatterMaker Software http www patternmaker com http www leenas com English tutorial html 40 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM
44. ial html 39 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site I a T E E i a E E E E L Nobody is a born master If you have not used CAD programs before you may feel at the beginning that drafting patterns with such a program is clumsy Sometimes you may think This could be done quicker with a pencil and paper That might be true at that time After you have learned to use the program you will notice that PatternMaker is superior to any method of drafting the patterns manually You can alter the patterns on the screen and print the patterns only when you are satisfied with them You can easily compare different versions of patterns print them as miniature patterns and save them for future use If you want to alter the patterns drafted by the macros and you have not yet learned how to do it quickly with the editing tools of the program you can print the patterns out and then make the alterations manually with a pencil or scissors before you cut the patterns Now you have learned the program and will be able draft any kind of patterns for yourself or for your friends or if you are in a line for business for your customers Only your own imagination and creativity set limits for you There is no sense nowadays to draft the basic patterns manually It is pure mathematics and can well be done by a machine You should concentrate on things that the machine cannot do creating fas
45. l computer program A macro is a small computer program which you run with your PatternMaker program After you choose the macro command from the main menu or by clicking on the macro icon the program asks you to choose the garment Then you are asked to give some information choose options and give measurements Usually you also choose one of three ease options minimum normal or maximum Please refer to the sewing instructions for the macros to learn about the ease amount of each ease category After you have answered all the questions the program runs the macro and you get all the pattern pieces you need for a fashion garment and everything has been drafted http www leenas com English tutorial html 1 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site according to the given measurements Tailored garments according to given measurements With the macros you draft patterns for tailored garments according to given measurements If the measurements have been taken correctly you usually get faultless patterns for the garment you have chosen Difficulties may rise with some unusual body shapes like strongly asymmetrical bodies as they would with any pattern drafting method To make sure that you have taken the measurements correctly it is strongly recommended that you sew a test garment muslin with the patterns for the basic bodice sloper It should fit very tightly on you like a second skin If the test garme
46. nd Edit Mirror Select the collar M1 and the lapel piece M1 Accept the selection M2 Point the bottom end of the line across which the mirroring is to be done bottom end of the turning line of the lapel M1 look at the picture Point the top end of the mirroring line the point where the cutting line crossed the collar M1 look at the picture 8 Remove the original cut pieces of the collar and the lapel Edit Erase 9 Alter the collar and or the lapel to the shape you want by moving its point s Use the command Point Move vertex Select the points to be moved M1 M1 accept the selection M2 Choose the base point of the move preferably near the points to be moved M1 Move the mouse and choose the destination of the move anywhere you want it to be M1 If you are not pleased with the result undo the move with the command Edit Undo and try again 10 When you are satisfied with the new shape of the collar and the lapel mirror them back to their original position to the left side of the turning line of the lapel Use the command Edit Mirror Select the collar piece M1 and the lapel M1 accept the selection M2 Choose the line across which the mirroring is to be done It is the same line as the previous mirroring line M1 M1 11 Remove the collar piece and the lapel on the CF piece Edit Erase 12 If you want to you can join the collar pieces to each other and join the lapel to the CF piece Edit J oin This is not necessar
47. nded to do Drawing objects Exercise 1 drafting a collar In this exercise you learn to draft a collar in three different ways 1 using a frame 2 typing the points of the collar from keyboard and 3 drafting the collar using the Grid points First make a plan as in the picture below According to the plan we are going to draft a collar which is 6 cm high at the CB A J and which has been curved at the neck 3 cm from point J downwards The collar is 6 cm high also in the CF D E and its point D extends 5 cm to the left from the CF point Let s assume that the measured neck circumference of the garment is 40 cm Then the half length of the collar is 20 cm Look at the collar in the picture to notice how it is composed of lines and arcs At the top edge of the collar there is a combination of an arc B C D and a line A B In order make the arc and the line merge into one another smoothly point A has to be on a Straight line with the starting point of the arc B and the corner point of the arc C At the bottom edge of the collar there is a combination of two arcs J H G and G F E In order to make these two arcs merge into one another smoothly the corner point H and the end point G of the first arc have to be on a Straight line with the corner point of the other arc F http www leenas com English tutorial html 4 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 6 cm 5 cm 20 cm 1 2 of the ga
48. nt is all right you can be sure that all PatternMaker macro garments fit well when the tested measurements are used Ladies s basic macros The Ladies basic macros are included in the program With these macros you can draft patterns for an entire wardrobe to given measurements You do not need to know anything about pattern drafting to do this The basic macros contain simple basic garments which are good for most figure types If you want to see what other macro collections there are plase go to the PatternMaker Website http www patternmaker com This is how to run a macro Try the macros first with the default measurements given Scandinavian size 42 to get familiar with the kinds of garments you can sew with the PatternMaker macros If you want need to get women s standard measurements for other sizes click here Choose the command File Macro from the main menu You can do this in three ways either you simultaneously press the lt Alt gt key and the underlined letter of the command lt AIt gt F then M or you pull down the File menu and then choose the command by clicking on it with the left button of the mouse M1 Or you can click M1 on the Macro icon on the left side of the screen It s the icon that says mac When you get the dialog box depicted above choose the macro you want to try by double clicking on its name with the left mouse button M1 or click on its name once and then click lt OK gt Look in
49. of the armscyes do it by moving one or more vertices Point Move vertex 3 b Measure the length added to the front and the back armscyes x and y Use the Dimension tool Draw Dim and snap to end point CtrIF3 Choose the command select the base point and the destination point of distance to be measured M1 M1 move the mouse and click the place where you want the dimension line to be displayed M1 Write down the measurements then erase the dimension lines Edit Erase 3 c Broaden the collar and the lapel according to your wishes e g 2 cm Use command Point Move vertex Select all the vertices of the collar to be moved simultaneously M1 M1 M1 accept the selection M2 click anywhere on the screen with M1 for the base point of the move move the mouse and when you are satisfied with the new width of the collar click again with M1 Do the same with the lapel Note when you broaden the collar you have to lengthen its outer edge otherwise it does not lie flat on the back How to do this is explained in Exercise 8 4 Draw cutting lines for the sleeve Draw Line Be sure to position the ends of the lines outside the sleeve Cut the sleeve with the cutting line Edit Cut 5 To alter the sleeve to match the altered armscyes rotate the sleeve pieces which you cut by the amount that you measured in 3b x and y Use command Edit Rotate Select the leftmost piece of the sleeve M1 accept with M2 and rotate it counter clockwise
50. of the pieces Draw center front lines and fold lines for the pieces as in the picture Draw Line CtrlF3 7 Draw a cutting line on the back piece starting from the dart apex CtriF3 and going vertically CtriF5 from there to and across the hem line Draw Line 8 Cut the back piece with the cutting line Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut the back piece M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with the line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase and move back pieces apart from each other Edit Move 9 Add seam allowances to the back pieces Draw Seam Allowance Give as the seam width 4 cm for the hems O cm for the center back seam and 1 cm for all other edges of the pieces 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not EXERCISE 23 Mirroring objects to draft facing 2 Run the macro Lbodice mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements offered by clicking lt OK gt and lt OK gt with M1 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 3 Erase the back piece and its waist dart as well as the sleeve and its center line with the command Edit Erase Select the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 M1 and accept the selection M2 4 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key Choose the command Edit Mirror Select the CF piece as th
51. on tool and not the line tool Select as the starting point of the line any point outside the armscye M1 as the second point of the line the bust apex point M1 and as the end point of the line any point outside the original front side piece M1 open the polygon menu with M2 and conclude the command by choosing Open done from the options Cut the mirrored front side piece with this line Edit Cut Choose the command choose the object to be cut mirrored front side piece M1 accept M2 and then the piece to cut with the cutting line M1 M2 U Y 2 Draw a cutting line across the mirrored front side piece as in the picture Draw Poly CtriF3 Because you need 3 Transfer the dart by rotating the topmost of the cut pieces so that the shoulder dart is closed and a dart opens up at the armscye Edit Rotate CtrlF3 Join all front pieces except the original front side piece into one piece Edit J oin Mirror 2 Base point Destination 1 EON of rotation of rotation in i Center point The reflecting arai line 5 5a Base point 17 Close avd http www leenas com English tutorial html 19 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site aS ae Clos 7 53 Destination __ Say Center open Sb base point _ F Sb Center Rotate 4 Draw cutting lines across the joined front pieces as in the picture Draw Line All the lines have to extend beyond the edges of the pi
52. p is gathered without puckers To make the final shaping to the sleeve cap pull on easestitching in the sleeve cap Sew the sleeve to the armscye along the easestitching The facing is fastened simultaneously Steam the seam allowances of the sleeve cap toward sleeve Another way of doing this is to use a bias strip of wool fabric in stead of the facing Scaling and resizing the objects Exercise 25 Patterns for leggings from the basic pants patterns 1 Run the basic pants macro File Macro Give as the cuff circumference the final desired cuff circumference of the leggings e g 28 cm Remove pockets waistband zipper placket grain lines and the pocket mouth line from the front piece Edit Erase 2 Make a mirror image copy of the front piece Use command Edit Mirror select the front piece M1 accept M2 give any vertical line as the line to be reflected against use snap to ortho if you need CtriF5 Erase the original front piece Move the mirrored front piece so that it touches the back piece at the hem Edit Move CtriF3 Choose the command select the front piece M1 and accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the leftmost vertex of the cuff of the front piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the rightmost vertex of the cuff of the back piece M1 Rotate back piece so that it meets the front piece at the hip Edit Rotate The point to be rotated about is the shared vertex of the cuffs M1 and the base point
53. r another You can use the layers to organize your pattern for instance by placing the different sizes of the garment 36 38 40 on different layers or different garments for one customer skirt jacket blouse on different layers You can change the settings of the layers by clicking the layer box in the status bar Layer 0 with M1 You can name the layers whatever you want Click in the box for a layer s name with M1 and write the new name on top of the old one http www leenas com English tutorial html 3 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site One of the layers is active at a time Drawing commands and the macros produce objects on the layer which is active Activate a layer by clicking with M1 in its Current column The layers can be visible or hidden To hide a layer click with M1 in the On column to change it to Off The printing command Print All prints the objects all the layers which are On So if you want to print the items on one layer only turn the other layers off HINT When you make alterations to the fashion patterns or basic bodice sloper which you have drawn using the macros run the macro twice first on layer 0 and then on layer 1 Then hide layer 0 Make the alterations to the patterns on layer 1 From time to time you can display layer 0 and compare the changed patterns with the original ones This is a good way to check that you have made all the changes you inte
54. r dart apex and then the point to be aligned hem CF point Note that in the side seam from hip to waist there is an arc the top hip abdomen vertex is a round vertex You can change this vertex to a round vertex afterwards Point Round vertex or you can when you come to this point change the polygon tool to the arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 and choosing from the menu Arc x When you have finished the arc change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line 4 Move the wraparound piece apart from the front piece Edit Move and change the vertex in the hem corner to a round vertex Point Round vertex Draw the center front line to the wraparound piece Draw Line CtriF3 and CtrlF5 Exercise 22 Another wraparound skirt Run the Lskirt mac macro File Macro Erase the lining Edit Erase Erase the outer vertices of the back piece zipper and the vent extensions 1 Mirror front piece using the center front line as the reflection line Choose command Edit Mirror Select the front piece M1 accept M2 Select as the top of the reflecting line the waist point of the CF line CtrIF3 M1 and as bottom of the reflecting line the hem point of the CF line M1 Draw guide circles at the waist and the hem points of the center front line radius 10 cm Draw Circle CtrlF3 2 Draw vertical guide lines between the intersections of the 10 cm circles and the waist and the hem Draw new guide circles at the http
55. rment neck circumference If you need to know more about arcs please refer to PatternMaker User s Manual Method 1 Drafting the collar in a frame Draw a rectangle 20 cm wide and 9 cm high Draw Rectangle Choose the command click somewhere on the screen with M1 this will be the left corner of the rectangle E and type the coordinates of the right top corner of the rectangle A from the keyboard 20 9 lt Enter gt The sign means that the coordinates of the latter point are given relative to the given location of the first point E Then draw another rectangle starting from the bottom left corner of the first rectangle using snap to end point lt CtriF3 gt M1 Type as the relative coordinates of its top right corner C 5 9 lt Enter gt Draw two additional rectangles of size 5x9 cm The first one starts at the right bottom corner of the second rectangle F and the other at the right bottom corner of rectangle F For the collar tip D draw a rectangle of size 5x6 cm starting from point E and going to the left select the starting point of the rectangle at point D M1 and type the coordinates of the opposite corner of the rectangle D from keyboard 5 6 lt Enter gt Now you can draw the collar following the points of the frame Draw Poly CtriF3 Please note that the points C F and H are corner points of an arc When you come to a corner point draw the point before the corner point in the usual way and then c
56. t Enter gt Repeat for the second circle Then draw a line which starts and ends at the intersection of the circle and the leg Draw Line CtrIF7 Deactivate snap to intersection when you don t need it any more It makes your program very slow CtrlF1 7 Then cut the pattern with the line you drew Edit Cut Choose the command choose the object to be cut M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with M1 accept M2 Erase the circles and the cutting line as well as the lower leg piece Edit Erase More designs In the following you have some exercises without specific instructions Look carefully at the pictures we are sure you can do these exercises too Use as your basic blocks the basic bodice or another macro according to your wishes Be certain to have the needed ease in the garment Exercises 26 and 27 Two corset tops for evening dresses http www leenas com English tutorial html 37 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Exercise 28 A long evening dress and a bolero http www leenas com English tutorial html 38 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Exercise 29 Drafting a flat collar Place iront and back pieces 0 5 con ontop of each other at shoulder tip GF Exercise 30 A closely fitting evening jacket Use the jacket minimum ease patterns 12 cm bust ease as base for this design http www leenas com English tutor
57. t it touches the front pant at waist the CF vertexes lie on top of each other Edit Move CtrlF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved the front top M1 accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the CF waist vertex of the top M1 and as the destination of the move the CF waist vertex of the front pant M1 http www leenas com English tutorial html 10 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site b Add 2 cm vertical ease at the waist Move the front piece up by this amount You do not need to select the command as it already is active Select the front top M1 accept M2 Type as the base point of the move from the keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination point of the move 0 2 lt Enter gt 7b ay fa 8 Finally draw the overall following the existing points Draw Poly CtriF3 Show vertices by typing F5 Do not go through the waist vertices Go directly from the hip point to the armpit point back and from the hip point to the bust dart point front Please notice that there are arcs and lines in the patterns When you arrive at a point where an arc begins open the polygon menu with M2 and choose from the options Arc x After having given the points for the arc start corner end and if there is not another arc after the first one change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line If you find this difficult you can draft the patterns with all straight lines
58. vertex ATN 2cm 35 40 crt nt 14 14 172 garment neck circumference 2 Draw a rectangle with size 1 2 of the garment neck circumference x 35 40 cm points A B C D 3 Draw a circle at the upper right corner of the rectangle with radius 8 cm 4 Add points as follows midway between points A and D point E 8 cm from point B to the left point F 8 cm from point B downwards point G midway between points C D point H use snap to mid point CtrlF2 midway between points C H point J midway between points D K point L midway between points H L point K 5 Move point A 2 cm to the left Move points D and L 3 cm down move point K 1 5 cm down 6 Change points B E H and L to round points Point Round Vertex Copying objects Exercise 4 A long evening skirt http www leenas com English tutorial html 7 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site ee EE 1 Run the skirt macro giving as the length of the skirt 90 cm File Macro Lskirt mac Remove the lining and the waist band Edit Erase Draw guide lines at the front and back waist of the skirt Draw Line as in the picture i e three lines per piece and one line for the zipper extension 2 Move the lines 3 cm up Edit Move Choose the command select the lines one by one M1 M1 M1 and accept the selection M2 Type as the starting point of the move 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination point of the move 0
59. w points between the original hem points and the point you just added Look at the picture below Base point Base point of rotate ofrotate 4 4 a ROR B 53 i x i y A R Round vertex Points to rotate about 1 a Run the jacket macro File Macro Use the maximum ease option bust circumference 16 cm Type the length according to your wishes e g 60 cm b Add 4 cm ease to the garment the ease of the overcoat will be 16 4 20 cm Add the ease by moving the right side vertices of the center front piece 1 cm to the right and the left side vertices of the center back piece 1 cm to the left use command Point Move vertex for each of these two moves Select all the vertices to be moved M1 M1 M1 before accepting the selection M2 Show the points if needed by typing lt F5 gt Use snap to end point CtrlF3 if it helps Type the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt Type as the destination point of the move from keyboard 1 0 lt Enter gt front and 1 0 lt Enter gt back The jacket has round points at the back shoulder dart apex Before going on it is best to change these points to corner points Point Corner vertex aj 2 al Destination of move n 2 4 Base of move J 2 1 Base of rotation 3 a cm fm c End of bi J a rotation E 2H Point to rotate about End of rotation http www leenas com English tutorial html 29 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22
60. with M1 accept M2 Type as the base point of the move 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination of the move 0 6 lt Enter gt 5 Draw the new shape of the sleeve along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtrlF3 If needed correct the shape of the sleeve cap by moving one or more vertices Point Move vertex Note that both sides of the sleeve cap are formed of two arcs with a line in between In order for the arcs to merge smoothly into each other the corner point of each arc should lie along the same line as the straight segment Exercise 11 A flared collar i ver R round vertex ed http www leenas com English tutorial html 17 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 3 Base start of rotation i pe _ F Destination of rotation Point to rotate about 1 Use the basic bodice macro for this exercise File Macro Lbodice mac Erase the sleeve and its center line Edit Erase Rotate the front side piece so that the shoulder bust dart is closed Edit Rotate CtriF3 The center point of the rotation is the dart apex point the base point of the rotation is the right side point of the shoulder bust dart points on the shoulder and the destination point of the rotation is the left side point of the shoulder bust dart points on the shoulder Design the shape of the collar upon the front piece the collar Draw Polygon For this purpose draw guide circles at the front ne
61. x G as the starting base point of the move and vertex F as the destination point of the move Move the back half of the sleeve accordingly http www leenas com English tutorial html 26 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 5 Rotate the front sleeve so that it touches the shoulder tip vertex Edit Rotate CtriF3 After having chosen the command select the object to be rotated front sleeve M1 and accept M2 Choose as the point to rotate about vertex F M1 Click with M1 for the starting point of the rotation anywhere on the screen M1 Move the mouse and when the the sleeve head touches the shoulder tip click with M1 for the destination of the rotation Rotate the back sleeve accordingly 6 Draw the raglan sleeves along the existing vertices Please refer to the picture to see vertices of the sleeve to be drawn Use command Draw Poly Choose the vertices of the polygon one by one M1 M1 M1 When you have pointed all the vertices and come to the last but one vertex open the polygon menu with M2 and choose the option Done closed When drawing use the snap which you find best in the Situation in question CtriF3 or CtriF4 or no snap You can draw the arcs angular and change the vertices in question later to round vertices Point Round vertex 7 Draw the new front and back pieces accordingly Draw Poly CtrIF3 Go along the existing vertices Draw the front pieces in three separate pieces i e
62. x cm Select the point to be rotated about shown in the picture and the base point of the rotation shown in the picture and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard x and type lt Enter gt Rotate the rightmost piece of the sleeve the same way Note that the distance to be rotated is now a negative number y as the rotation is to be done clockwise 6 Finally draw the new shape of the sleeve along the existing points Draw Poly CtrIF3 If you need to check how the sleeve cap is made of arcs and lines refer to exercise 1 Mirroring objects Exercise 21 Wraparound skirt http www leenas com English tutorial html 30 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site Found vertex 1 Run the basic skirt macro File Macro Lskirt mac Erase all pieces but the front and the back pieces Edit Erase 2 Mirror the front piece Edit Mirror Choose the command then select the piece M1 accept M2 and give the center front line of the skirt as the line to be reflected across Draw a vertical line Draw Line starting from the dart apex CtrIF3 down CtrIF5 and across the hem line as in the picture 3 Draw the wraparound piece along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtriF3 Add points to the CF at the waist and at the hem Align the hem CF vertex with vertex of the inner dart apex as in the picture Use command Point AlignX select first the point according which you want to align inne
63. y but if you want to draw seam allowances around the pieces it is easier when the pieces are joined Exercise 9 Adding ease to patterns Selection windows Note PatternMaker macros produce patterns which are ready to sew You don t have to add ease to them If you want to sew a T shirt or a sweater with the shirt patterns or an overcoat with the jacket patterns then you may want to add ease to the patterns 1 Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Lbodice mac File Macro http www leenas com English tutorial html 15 of 40 6 1 2006 1 22 24 PM Leena s com PatternMaker Tutorial Web Site 2 Erase all other pieces but the front and the back pieces and the back waist dart Choose the command Edit Erase Select the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept M2 Picture 1 3 Move the points of the front and the back piece Select the points with the help of a selection window as in the picture Choose the command Point Move Vertex Type from keyboard W or click the window _ icon in the icon area with M1 Choose one corner of the selection window M1 move the mouse and choose the opposite corner of the selection window M1 Accept selection with M2 f f Exercise 10 Sleeve with gathers 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Remove all pattern pieces except the sleeve and its

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