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1. 2 Remove tem plate and extend the lines 3 Turn garment wrong side out and place on a table with the wrong side of the front facing up 4 Spray two layers of OESD Poly Mesh stabilizer with 505 Temporary Adhesive Spray smooth together so that layers adhere without wrinkles 5 Spray top layer with 505 Place the sprayed side of the stabilizer on the wrong side of the garment front over the design area Turn garment over so that the stabilizer is underneath the garment 7 Place embroidery hoop template in the embroidery hoop 8 Slide the top hoop with tem plate inside the garment aligning the horizontal and vertical marks with those on the hoop Keep the garment and the stabilizer flat and smooth 9 Loosen the screw on the bottom hoop and slide it under the top hoop 10 Press hoops together then tighten the screw EMBROIDERY 1 Attach the hoop to the machine 2 Pull onesie up from bottom edge to reveal the design area 3 Pin as much of the fabric out of the way as possi ble 4 Select the design Use your machine s Layout features to align the needle with the marked center on the garment 5 Using a Ballpoint needle embroider the design Use an awl or stiletto to hold excess fabric out of the way of the stitching Remove the garment from the hoop 7 Trim excess stabilizer from the back of the garment LETTUCE EDGING 1 Turn the garment right side out2. sewing machines have a specially designed stretch buttonhole that will stretch with the garment but spring back when released retaining its original shape The secret to this buttonhole is that the sides are composed of a series of tiny overlock stitches not the traditional satin stitch bead When sewing stretch buttonholes place a single layer of light weight tear away stabilizer underneath the garment to neutralize the stretch of fabric against the feed dogs Sew the buttonhole through all layers remov ing the stabilizer when the buttonhole is complete Note Place a layer of water soluble stabilizer on top of high loft or sweater fabrics to help feed on the top side of the fabric too Consider sewing stretch buttonholes in an unex pected thread such as variegated cotton or rayon TE XU per EW A l 2r i sj AS Ti E ji al ee 1 RD DKT e gt Bi P 1 5 Bl r il _ Bl a gt m j TE as 7 je E Eyo N i 1 These specialty buttonholes have the appearance of skeleton key doorplates hence the name keyhole They are designed in this manner to provide extra wiggle room in the but tonhole slot opening for extra wide chunky or shank style buttons As these heavier buttons are most often used on outer wear these buttonholes are formed by closely spaced zigzag rows with a rounded or pointed end These buttonhole
3. Several tiered skirt options including bias plaid ruffles and chiffon or lace tiers Vogue 7607 Several options for an asymmetrical skirt e Vogue 2005 A slim pant with a long and longer jacket style Vogue 7497 amp Butterick 6717 Pleated skirt options e Vogue 2364 Fur vest or fur trimmed style and more Have fun sewing for fall winter it s a great season to make something new and unique Ga K Ge Lani Through the Needle as gy Meg 2 ys FLOWERS amp LACE DIRECTIONS A e Fold firmly starched fabric down the center to form a crease ere _ Open folded fabric place under lt it apresser foot eee Select floral stitch 655 and sew the length of the fabric using the crease as a guide Select decorative stitch 657 alter stitch width to 6mm Sew along each side of previous stitching using the left front of the foot asa ids RS A 9K 657 4 Me J Cook up a new recipe for embellishment using the decorative stitches of your BERNINA sewing machine Try new combinations different direc tions overlapping patterns and unusual thread choices to get beautiful embroidery looks using _ decorative stitches BY DEBRA BOHIN _ ai Insert Wing needle and select entredeux stitch 701 Sew along each side of the previ ous stit
4. When is a buttonhole not just a button hole Step outside the traditional but tonhole box and consider the opening a buttonhole creates a clean finished slot Take your creativity one step fur ther and consider other possibilities for this opening other than accommodating buttons Ribbon fabric strip cord weaving Pocket slits using the manual but tonhole foot for infinitely sized open ings Create designer slashed fabric for a funky bou tique look Use buttonhole eyelets as perfectly shaped round doll and teddy bear eyes Seam Sealant Lightly coat the inner opening of your finished buttonhole with seam sealant Allow to dry completely then cut the buttonhole open The sealant will secure the fibers and your open buttonhole will be professionally and cleanly fin ished TIP Avoid over cutting the buttonhole length by placing a pin in each bar tack before cutting Buttonhole Cutter amp Block Set Indispensable for making clean cuts in your newly sewn button hole After the seam sealant is totally dry place the wooden block underneath the buttonhole to be opened Hold the cutter blade edge perpendicular to the fabric Press the blade into the fabric with one smooth motion a perfect cut every time TIP To cut very small button holes place the fabric on the block so that one bartack hangs over the edge Fold the excess fabric over the edge of the block then cut the butt
5. ribbon on the opposite side of heart group together as one object Select the heart and bow and group them together to form the third element of the design Switch the groupings on either side of the center heart rotate into desired positions Rotate the center heart motif into position When satisfied with the arrangement print a template of the altered design Using the paper template mark the position of the design on the collar front Stabilize the embroidery area with two layers of BadgeMaster stabilizer and one layer of lightweight Tear Away The BadgeMaster next to the fabric 1s easy to remove by rinsing and the Tear Away will pre vent the satin stitches in the small hearts and holly leaves from pulling and tunneling Hoop all layers in the large artista embroidery hoop Embroider design on one layer of collar When embroidery 1s complete gen tly remove all traces of the Tear Away stabilizer This can be accomplished easily using a pair of tweezers with no risk to the fabric since the BadgeMaster Stabilizer is still in place When all of the Tear Away stabilizer is gone remove the BadgeMaster stabilizer Sew front collar linings to collar backs Cut seam allowance from neck edge Fold collar so that the lining is positioned under the top and all raw edges are together Sew entredeux around the remaining raw edges of the collar omitting the neck edge begin at the left back sew the left side
6. Tear Away stabilizer for each design To get the designs to come out so that exactly six designs fit in the skirt area measure the finished width of the skirt and divide by six This number is the actual size each embroidery motif must be for exactly six pattern repeats The easiest way to align a row of embroidered designs quickly and easily is to create your own reference point at the beginning of each design at the point where the motifs meet in this case the foremost point of the first holly leaf To create a reference point Open design in an embroidery software with digitizing capabilities Use the Zoom tool to zoom in on the area where the reference point is needed Activate the Outline option and the Open Curve tool Select a color not contained in the design Left click one time on the desired location Press Enter Open the Color Film option in the Arrange menu Move the reference point to the beginning position December 2002 ON THE EMBROIDERY MACHINE For perfect positioning embroider the first design where desired Re hoop for the second design Go to Layout and select the Needle Start option Position design so that the needle is in the exact position needed to align the next embroidery motif In the embroidery screen forward to color 2 and stitching With this technique you can set your personal reference points in any desired location for any design Once embroidery is completed on skirt band sew corde
7. aids found on your BERNINA buttonhole foot make this technique simple and easy to learn The short center toe on this foot is designed for the express purpose of holding a cord in position when stitching the left and right hand sides of your but tonhole e Cut a generous length of filler cord 4 5 times the length of the finished buttonhole e Fold the cord in half with the loop facing you and the tails towards the back of the machine Take the first stitch of your buttonhole stopping with the needle down in the fabric e Raise the buttonhole foot and drape the folded part of the cord over the center toe of the foot Guide the left and right tails of the cord towards the back of the foot They will automatically fall into the groves in the sole of the foot the same place where the beads sides of the buttonhole will be guided e Lower the buttonhole foot and sew the buttonhole A small loop of filler cord will appear at the end of the buttonhole When the buttonholes is complete gently pull on one of the cord tails to draw the loop snug against the buttonhole bead satin stitches e Using a hand sewing needle with a large eye bring the tails to the underside then knot and clip the tails The center toe which holds the filler cord is located at the back of this foot while a rubber plug at the anler front secures the ends of the cord while the button hole is stitched e Sew the first stitch of the but
8. and lay the garment back side up 2 Mark a horizon tal line across the back just above the leg binding Mark two horizontal lines above and below the first line spaced 1 apart 3s Set up the serger for a three thread rolled hem with a stitch length of 1mm and a differential feed of 0 7 Insert a ballpoint needle into the right needle position 4 Thread the serger with regular serger u we thread in the needle and lower looper eee Woolly Nylon in the upper looper adjusting tensions as needed to accommodate the decorative thread generally loosen the upper looper and tighten the lower looper tensions 5 Fold the onesie along the top horizontal line with the back neck edge of the garment facing up and to the left 6 Place the fold about half way between the needle and the knife blade 7 Serge along the edge of the fold while holding the fabric edges taut in front of and behind the presser foot TIP Practice on a folded scrap of knit to achieve the correct amount of tension to apply Don t hold the fabric so tightly that it cannot move under the foot 8 Stop serging at the end of the marked horizontal line remove the threads from the stitch finger Continue serging to form a long tail 9 Repeat the above steps for each of the remaining four horizontal lines 10 After stitching steam don t press the rolled edges to make them ruffle even more 11 Use a large eyed needle to br
9. berninausa com for a dealer near you Currently i is constantly on projects to share with beg o seam Editor for BERNINA of America Jo is instru mental in the production of Through the Needle NANCY BEDNAR Buttonhole Banter One of BERNINA s freelance serging experts Nancy also creates exquisite stitched garments quilts and crafts She is also co author of The Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques as well as author of several other books and contrib utor to many sewing publications SUSAN FEARS BERNINA Fashion Susan enjoys all types of sewing especially gar ment making She got hooked on quilting while making a quilted jacket and now enjoys quilts throughout her home She finds inspiration every where especially through her travels as an Educator for BERNINA of America GAYLE HILLERT 3ERNINA News irl Gayle n and her ation for responsible ons relat hig T WAW TJ y HN PX dd H y i Tl Mi vo a ES LITT 1 from the n to creating healing quilts such as rica from the Ashes Donna adopts orphan quilt blocks that she finds at flea markets and garage sales She then lovingly fashions them into quilts and begins a history label for each one JENNIFER GIGAS Hiker s Hydration Pack Jennifer an Education Consultant for BERNINA of America combines serging sewing and embroidery in many of her up dated interpreta tions of
10. coat was pieced diamond shapes in an alternating black and white pattern trimmed in red and beaded to match the bodice of the dress 6499 Se e To start making your plans for attend ing the next International Quilt Festival VIEWERS CHOICE AWARD April 11 through 13 2003 in Chicago Diamonds Are a Girls Best Friend by Jenny Raymond Visit www quilts com Saqf Vertical htm 23 Through the Needle 24 Sewing the Season FASHION FALL WINTER 2002 2003 BY SUSAN FEARS here has probably never been a better time to be a sewer than now and with the sewing tools available to us achieving the look of couture or better ready to wear may be easier to sew than to buy Saving money as the driving reason to sew clothes lost its significance some time ago but are you sewing a typical 200 jacket or a spectacular 2000 jacket Combining runway looks with your own style and creativity can make your winter wardrobe very excit ing The great looks of fall begin with luxurious fabrics and embellishments Fabrics like velvet over dyed denim menswear wool plaids lace soft drapey knits and tweeds provide the per fect basis for any skirt suit coat or pant Add embroidery fur or leather trims beaded or metal trims and buckles and you have the beginning of a great sewn wardrobe Let s take a look at what some of the prominent design houses are showing for fashion in Fall Winter 2002 2003 INTERPRETING THE
11. keyhole round stretch and straight stitch Pages 10 11 HIKER S HYDRATION PACK Something for the hiker mountain climber and other outdoor enthusiasts A compact carrying pouch for a water reser voir keeps fresh water nearby and easily accessible Page 12 13 BABY RUFFLES Transform a plain onesie into a darling ruffled outfit for a special little girl Pages 16 17 THE QUILTMAKER S GIFT CHALLENGE Award winning quilts inspired by the beautifully illustrated book about a gener ous quiltmaker and a selfish king Pages 18 20 FESTIVAL OF QUILTS News from the fall Quilt Festival includ ing the winner of the second Bernina Fashion Show Masquerade Pages 22 23 BERNINA FASHION SEWING THE SEASON Find out what s new for Winter 2003 and learn how to incorporate these trends ruffles plaids and more into you sewing projects Page 24 25 STITCH RECIPE This beautiful stitch combination remi niscent of delicate insertion lace is per fectly suited for blouses pillow borders or French heirloom sewing Page 26 SOFTWARE SKILL BUILDERS THE FORGOTTEN RESOURCE This often neglected resource is right at your fingertips providing easy access to stitch patterns fancy fill illustrations and more Page 27 PROFESSIONAL PROFILE Get to know Jennifer Sheriff Product Development Director for Oklahoma Embroidery Supply and Design who quilts and creates costumes for Renais
12. the selec tion line for the pattern When selecting patterns on the design screen imagine the location of the selection line and click on that line you will successfully select the pattern every time Click on Fancy Fill on the Contents side of the screen to view all 150 Fancy Fills in color Printing these pages is the next best thing to stitching all the Fancy Fills yourself Notice that the fill number pattern name and best stitch angle are printed beside the preview making it easy to select and set up when you using the software Choose Design Samples Print these pages to create the perfect design selection reference Notice that each item includes the name of the folder where it is found the name of the file a color picture in artistic view and a color listing This color listing is a great reference to use along with the color numbers in Print Preview How many times have you wanted to know which parts of a design corresponded with which number Now you know Select Alphabets then scroll to find Anniversary Viewing all the letters is helpful when selecting just the right alphabet for a particular project A size range recommendation is shown at the bottom of the page indicating the best sizes for the alphabet cho sen follow these guide lines for the best embroi dery results Stitching ABCDEFGHIJKLM MOPORSTUVWHYL 868 1234561830 POA PIE H ic BCECCESIAL PMOOGG
13. HER STITCHING Trace the collar pattern behind the text on this page Cut two front collar pattern pieces and cut two back collar pattern pieces on the fold as noted on the pattern Sew outside front collar to back collar Using a fabric market draw straight lines 1 from raw edges and 1 from folded back edges Attach 2 5mm Double needle to machine Attach secondary spool holder Thread Double needles with red Mettler Silk Finish thread Wind a bobbin with Mettler 60wt embroidery cotton to match fab ric insert into machine Open the bobbin area door unreel some of the Designer 6 red then thread the end up through the open ing in the front of the stitch plate in front of the needle Select the feather stitch 332 on the artista from the quilt stitch menu Adjust the stitch length to 3 5mm and activate the Security Function or the Double Needle Limitation select 2mm Stitch this corded featherstitch along the lines drawn on the collar pivoting at the corners When pivoting take care not to pull excess bobbin thread and Designer 6 from under the needle Should this happen you will have a loop on the underside of the fabric HEARTS amp HOLLY EMBROIDERY Open the artista software Open OESD design NV194 Rescale to fit inside the large artista hoop Use the Polygon Select tool to select the holly leaves small hearts and ribbon on one side of the center heart Group this selection Select the leaves hearts and
14. OOUUUUEY DB Mi Recommended ketter height Supported Files and Disk Formats are seldom used areas of the On line Manual containing three pages of easy to understand charts showing exactly which design formats the artista embroidery software reads and writes as well as a com plete listing of graphic formats Last but not least are the Shortcut Keys While a printed copy of the shortcut pages is included with the software these pages may sometimes be misplaced or lost Thanks to the On line Manual you always have the option of printing these pages again and again TIP Laminate these pages to make them harder to damage or lose Keep in mind that you always have a copy of the embroidery software manual within your computer for easy access during class at the cottage or when you just don t want to walk to the bookshelf and grab that printed manual Make your On line Manual the Remembered Resource 2 Through the AN Not everyone who works in the sewing industry is a full time seamstress From pattern designers to embroidery digitizers to notions buyers it takes a multitude of skills to keep the industry moving Meet people with interesting jobs and find out how they got there 28 WHAT IS YOUR JOB My official title at OESD is Product Development Director That is a title that encompasses many different activities work in many tasks at OESD started out developing Embroidery Cards an
15. Par a ig ar R tan hoy Se hee eo m T a a ri 5 a Se ae ee E nl A oe h ran JUDGES CHOICE Pauline Salzman Treasure Island FL 46 x 48 Based on a 17th century icon Made for a quilt show that will be part of a celebration of the 300th birthday of St Pe T A Ta TT EE ee ee ne ee el E a n QE ar Petersburg Russia and St Petersburg FL Will go to the Russian Ethnographic Museum and will be presented to B 7 Prime Minister Putin or his representative at the Florida YOUNG QUILTER S AWARD festivities in 2003 Robyn Strumpf Northridge CA 51 x 62 This quilt was made for Project Books and Blankies a program Robyn founded Since 1999 she has donated thou sands of books to literacy programs shelters classrooms and those in need Every book basket is accompanied by a quilt made by Robyn so that the kids can get cozy when reading TRANSFORM YOUR CREATIVE IDEAS INTO WEARABLE ART Top designers use HEIDI LUND Quilters Resource created with z A cc ibi ay Ribbons amp Threads Oliver Twist Threads Cosmic Creations Isacord SHAREE DAWN ROBERTS designed with Elegance Ribbon Oliver Twist Threads Badge Master CHERYL TROSTRUD WHITE embellished with Elegance Ribbon Available at your local Quilt and Needleart shop Oliver Twist Threads Qu Resource Inc Cosmic Creations N Designer Threads PO Boz 148850 Chi
16. STEN LASA ied Mirine M 1 iS J EMBROIDERY j Un d N Q A y A a A ETAT LK ge gt 37S f t a Inside e BERNINA News e Hearts amp Holly Dress e Buttonhole Banter e Hikers Hydration Pack e Baby Ruffles e The Quiltmaker s Gift Challenge e Festival of Quilts BERNINA Fashion sewing the Season e Stitch Recipe Software Skill Builders The Forgotten Resource e Professional Profile PORTRAIT of the ARTIST with her N want my pieces to make you when you look at them BERNINA Barbara Randle fiber artist teacher I start with happy colors and then throw in the unexpected PH tell students Pick out a fabric you really love and then build on it Add colors that turn you on add fuzzy things beads tassels If you get to a point where you re stumped imagine what you think needs to go there and then do the opposite It s a fun way to stretch the imagination If you want to get this wild and crazy you need a Bernina I own five Bernina machines now but my favorite is the I80E Between all the decorative stitches and the 9mm stitch width I can get my embellishments so incredibly bold and beautiful I love the 16 directional sewing as well It s definitely the most fun you can have with a sewing machine Nothing Sews Like A Bernina Nothing BERNINA 2002 Bernina of America Visit www
17. TRENDS ROMANTIC Think updated broomstick skirt instead of cottons use chiffon and incorporate heirloom sewing techniques gathers crocheted lace accents puffing ruffles etc Soft ruffles drape off sleeves shorter ruffles are great for tops and don t overpower the wearer LACE Use lace to accent and soften menswear fabrics Burberry showed a plaid pleated skirt with lace appliqu s at the hem imparting a lingerie look Embroider lace designs there are many including collars in the Studio BERNINA Austrian Lace embroidery collection by Gerald and Volker Matt on chiffon and use as an overskirt over a traditional fabric such as wool gabardine or crepe EMBROIDERY Visions of Russia Tibet Peru a global attitude Use embroidery along borders or as focal point in cascading florals or swirled patterns Use brightly colored embroi deries and ground them on black for a strong deliberate contrast or use them mono chromatically matched with to the fabric Oscar de la Renta used wide embroidered bor December 2002 ders to edge coats with fur trim Some great embroidery collections to try Artistic Adornments by Sue Box Mega Hoop designs for the artista 200 the Studio BERNINA Crewel embroidery collection by Iris Lee Don t forget decorative stitches they too can cre ate the embroidered embellishments Stack them to create the look of embroidery For inspiration see the Stitch Recipe on page 26 for more Stitch Rec
18. at were started and never finished I felt they needed a story and a documented history I put the blocks together as well as I can they usually become table toppers or runners or if I m lucky enough a quilt I try to find out as much as I can about the blocks and I include the history on a label I wish I knew the whole stories of these orphan blocks but that s real rare Donna started created the first of her healing quilts as an outlet for her feelings during a particular ly difficult and emotional time in her life I made a quilt for my father when he went to a nursing home You can only give them so many slippers and robes He had dementia so I put things on the quilt that would remind him of the years on the farm and happier times He loved horses windmills sunrises and sun sets his family and God Every member of the family helped me by making a block Being from a small town the nurses had known him long before he moved into the home and the quilt gave them something to talk to him about I m not sure if it helped him or me more Then I made a few others to help me through tough times I lost a very good friend a member of our quilt group to cancer Through the last year of her life our group exchanged fabrics the last fabric I received from her included a note that said When life gives you scraps make quilts I made a quilt using the fabrics we had exchanged scanned her note and made it part o
19. cago IL 60614 Fax 1 773 278 1348 Shisha Glass www quiltersresource com 21 Through the Needle Festival of Quilts BY SUSAN BECK 22 LI Imagine a place where you could immerse yourself in quilting Shopping learning and friendship Days filled with exploring new quilting ideas learning about useful gadgets viewing art qual ity quilts and shopping at over 1 000 quilt related shops all in the same place Evenings bring wearable art fash ion shows more classes and a chance to visit with thousands of your new best friends about the topic you enjoy most quilting This place does exist but only once a year at the International Quilt Festival in Houston TX For four days near the end of October tens of thousands of stitchers interested in quilt ing come together to share the passion and keep the quilting flame alive This year the Festival was held from October 31 November 3 With dozens of special exhibits that included quilts wearable art dolls and more you could spend the entire time viewing and admir ing the juried entries for each exhibit But if you did that you d miss all the classes and the opportunities to learn from some of the best and most well known teachers in the quilt world What a perfect way to acquire new skills or hone old ones r 7 ra YS _ CR ME DE LA CR ME AWARD Fire Blossom Phoenix by Kayla Kennington whil
20. ching using the left outer edge of the foot as a guide foot should rest on the right side of stitch 655 Sew next to stitch 701 __ using floral stitch 747 on both sides Sew many stitches sew little time geri pmbreidery tiread 1 Embroidery needles Reverse Want to learn more Check out the artista 200 link on our website www bern n inausa com for more stitch recipes 26 December 2002 Check this page in each issue of Through The Needle to sharpen your artista software skills The Forgotten Resource BY MARLENE BRYANT A valuable tool for artista embroidery software users the On line Manual often goes unnoticed or is forgotten yet this easily accessed resource is a useful addition to the printed manual included with the software Let s begin by dispelling a couple of the myths surrounding the On line Manual First you do not need to be connected to the Internet to use it Second the software CD does not have to be in the CD drive The On line Manual is loaded onto the computer hard drive right along with the software so it s always available at the click of your mouse Help Open the BERNINA artista embroi dery software program To access the On line Manual left click on Help in the Main Menu Bar then choose On line Manual Help Topics Online Manual About Show Design Warning Bernina International Home Page B
21. d design Collections for consumers but all Embroidery Products This means that look for Manufacturers to develop Spe Clalty Products such as thread and Stabilizers or evaluate existing Products for incorporation into the OESp distribution network WHAT DO You LIKE BEST ABOUT YOUR JOB like the Variability of my job One day will be Out lo how they control their Quality in Making boxes get and travel around the world Yes lama quilter for the most part although dabble in Io SEW garments for everyday wear and cost Stuffed toys and home dec i in my hobbies as well ts of different activities umes for renaissance activities also create tems like to be challenged and enjoy a great deal 0f variety ANY LAST THOUGHTS never envisioned Making a career Out of Embroidery when my family started in all of this It just fell into place when came home to take some time to look for a new job My Organizational skills Were needed for a hew project and Made it into a full time career Not everyone is suited to work for their family but my Coworkers make it fun and the Job Stays interesting PORTRAIT ofthe ARTIST with her BERNINA N N Cre ativity is about breaking the rules about trying new things Linda Lee sewer author teacher 2 I m always combining different colors and textures and fabrics I love to mix heavy textures with shiny things or dres
22. d feather stitch pintucks as on collar from embroidery Sew one row on each side backing the embroidered panel with another piece of fabric if using white for the band Sew entredeux to top and bottom edges of embroidered panel from corded pintucks Sew band into 77 a circle matching embroidery pintucks and _ entredeux Once dress is completed insert into skirt band 3 T ae above folded hem using is A br your favorite entredeux to Pd 4 j Ta m fabric method see any a heirloom sewing book such BERNINA s Heirloom Beginnings by Gayle Hillert removing the amount of skirt fab ric replaced by the width of the band SLEEVE FINISH Sew entredeux to lower edge of each sleeve Cut two lengths of lace edging 1 5 times the width of the sleeve gather Attach to entredeux with zigzag stitch and Edgestitch Foot 10 10C Sew decorative ribbon to lower edge of sleeve at appropriate distance from the edge for elastic casing IIE Both necklines are finished as one Trim away seam allowance along neck edges of dress and collar Cut a strip of con a Contin trast fabric a scant 1 to fit Binder Inste Attachment 84 26 30mm Attach Attach in Ment t x er Binder Attachment and Foot 94 to the Placket O bind the machine Place collar on top of dress Much a it s an both right sides up easier d Bind neck edge i j Finish ends of bias Construct dr
23. e 3 generation of uiltmakers Instructions for twenty traditional quilt patterns from The Quiltmaker s Gift are included in Quilts from The Quiltmaker s Gift by Joanne Larsen Line and Nancy Loving Tubesing with beautiful illustrations by Gail de Marcken The directions for each quilt are clear and easy to follow and E 2Nd Prize any of the projects are suitable for dake Adanted trem the Book beginning and or young quilters A beautiful book to add to your collec Betty Frezon tion or give to a friend Rensselaer NY For my grandson Andy Frezon to donate to his school to raise funds for a exchange program for students from Ireland feel an early start in sharing puts young people on the right track in life 19 Through the Needle 20 GROUP QUILT WINNER Tracey Van Heule Anne Van Heule if iy a N N rhs a Soak wht NA N met amp Margie Jackson R E a a ja i a s Thermopolis WY 60 x 79 Adapted from Take Time to Quilt a i dit we See E wy kan DEDA ae ers am J yu ar ja Ke aU a Ew This quilt was made for the Hot Springs County Library Foundation Due Brt tea toy ea i to a severely limited budget no money is PARET ay a hg available for art in Our county library We feel this gift will provide inspiration beauty and comfort whether hanging on ah a wall or wrapped around a child
24. e hook and loop tape 2 zippers each 20 long e Heavy plastic clip optional e 2 buckles size to accommodate the webbing e Fabric Shield Fabric Protector 505 temporary spray adhesive e Size 90 14 Universal needles e Water Reservoir available at sporting goods stores 13 Introducing the Bernina artista 200E The only sewing amp embroidery system that s Microsoft Windows Powered Visit your Bernina Dealer or www bernina com to discover all the world s first features on the new artista 200E 2002 Bernina of America Microsoft A Windows m Powered artista 200 J BERNINA r 2 n Through the Needle 16 SUPPLIES BERNINA artista embroidery system or Deco embroidery machine BERNINA serger One piece baby s underwear onesie e Designs from Collection 767 Special Delivery by OESD Inc e QESD Poly Mesh stabilizer 505 temporary adhesive spray e Isacord embroidery thread QESD bobbin thread Organ Ballpoint needle Seam sealant e Ballpoint needle for serger 2 cones regular serger thread 1 cone variegated Woolly Nylon texturized thread BY KAY LYNCH PREPARATION 1 Place the tem plate provided in the card packaging in the desired posi tion on the gar ment Mark horizontal and vertical center lines with chalk or a water soluble mark ing pen
25. e on the path to perfecting your craft December 2002 BERNINA of America Inc sponsored several exhibits and activities including a doll exhibit entitled In Celebration of the Doll and the Let Kids Sew l ll Teach Myself activity where the next genera tion of quilters learned sewing machine skills while making a simple project to take home A highlight of the Festival the BERNINA Fashion Show featured wearable art gar ments from 48 designers who were invit ed to participate This year s winner of the Cr me de la Cr me award was Kayla Kennington for her layered floaty garment Fire Blossom Phoenix Kayla is a repeat winner from last year and even though her entry this year was strikingly differ ent from her previous winning gar BER iS Be ment it showed the same creative JUDGES MERIT AWARD fae we use of fabric sewing machine tech Venus on the Half Shell by Larkin Van Horn Wa niques and unique colors for which she is known The Judges Merit Award went to Venus on the Half Shell by Larkin Van Horn This striking aqua and black ensemble featured piecing applique beading and embroidery and was complete with matching handbag headpiece and necklace The winner of the Viewers Choice award was Jenny Raymond Her garment entitled Diamonds Are a Girl s Best Friend featured a red ruf fled dress with beaded bodice The over
26. e piece of fabri 25 AA jat lost their life that day At first the de vath th tolls were so high the n Jj n the quilt merciful py I was finishing up 063 red white and lore than six thousand victims As I worl G an te er O MY prayers On March 28 2002 da 3 063 people therefore each one of a av iN blue fabric pieces is in men hore of onerof the victims lost that day There were 4 2 830 people killed LS e m ed de bg in the World Trade Center in Ya Whepassengers and crew of the two high jacked planes The Ab X ee Pentagon had 125 victims on h e gro mad and American flight 77 had 64 passengers The United flight that went down ieee sania te had 44 victims in all Each one of these people will remain win MY thoughts and prayers su all remain in all our hearts forever l t vv Y e N a i 1 iii o e e 7 shi Mad 4 9 LI N PMO D j AI J A Y j FPL r ril 2002 gt D c do t K x gt qe eka ah f A Sels On A WAV P ba oy J r Dees Sey H V AES Te AN Hek ax a W 4 D i X we en AF Po A VPE y December 2002 n addition to her healing quilts Donna also collects and documents stray quilt blocks from flea mar kets and estate sales I love old quilts but the prices are always so high So I started collecting blocks th
27. ernina of America Home Page Embroidery Online The Acrobat Reader loaded along with the artista software opens the manual as a PDF file On the left side of the screen is a list of topics These correspond to chapters in the printed User s Manual Left Click on a topic in the Contents col umn information immediately appears on the right side of the screen making it much faster to move through the manual than by scrolling page by page At the lower edge of the screen is a page number indicated your place in the On line Manual If you d like to print specific pages of the On line Manual simply select Print and type the numbers of the desired pages into the dialog box Access Code Order Form I4 4 4530f605 gt MI 742x907in O You will notice differences between the printed User s Manual and the On line Manual For instance the On line Manual is in color this can be a wonderful aid in understanding diagrams Also in the On line Manual Appendices all the options are illus trated while the printed User s Manual shows only a few selec tions This makes working with Pattern Outlines and Fancy Fills much less of a mystery By printing the on line pages and saving them in a notebook you will have a handy reference for identify ing and selecting patterns Double click to open the Pattern Outlines Identify the folder and the pattern number Notice the dotted line that runs horizontally through each pattern This line represents
28. ess following the instruc s easier he on tions included with the pattern For an stitch ponon J pefore added touch of color thread two the back r finished strands of red D cor 6 through the zik em just holes of the entredeux as desired THE PERFECT HOLLY HANGER Make this dress even more special by embellishing a purchased padded hanger with Hearts amp Holly embroidery For instructions visit our website at www berninausa com and go to Free Projects gt Holly Hanger B ll nhole B BY NANCY BEDNAR W ebster defines the buttonhole as the hole or loop through which a button is fastened This simple and functional description underplays the creative and structurally enhancing buttonhole enhance ments made possible by BERNINA sewing machines Specially engineered buttonholes add strength to counteract stretch in knits and allow extra wiggle room in heavy coatings All take on a new perspective when sewn in unexpected threads over filler cord with fringy tails or framed with any of the many decorative stitches housed in our BERNINA s Let s explore some practical and creative possibilities Tailoring classes have long touted sewing over a cord as the preferred way of stitching a buttonhole unstable fabrics such as Chanel like boucles are stabilized while gaping frog lips closures are eliminates from stretchy fabric Although cording sounds like a tricky technique to master built in
29. f The Quiltmaker s Gift Quilt Challenge visit Our website at www bernin ausa com and go to ji u kd CF JE SWE Bn ths 71 LT A EY h EF i J Peti k 1 4 i g n 1 a he a if a i d F U 4 L n E J Fa U i ee i i P S M r E l aa i i R a BEST OF SHOW 1St Place Anything Goes Category Bear Mountain Cabin Linda Bergerson Cook MIN 80 x 75 Adapted from a Glad Creations pattern Made for my sister Paula who repre sents the same spirit of giving that the quiltmaker inspires As a single mother she has devoted her lift to bringing up her daughter No matter how difficult it may be for her any time someone is in need whether a family member or a friend she is there to help 2nd Place Anything Goes Category Untitled Debbie Wharton Corrales NM 80 x 75 Adapted from All Around the Neighborhood pattern Made for a local children s hospital December 2002 1St Prize Quilts Adapted from the Book Jane Marzewski Jonesboro AR 50 x 61 This quilt was made for daughter Sara age 16 Sara derives pleasure from giving to others selflessly She helps by giv ing surreptitiously to meet needs of others She admired the quilt in progress but never asked for it TIVE ERE Ai Hi Ol
30. f the quilt label She was such a gentle and kind lady with a very strong faith so I used the biblical block Jacob s Ladder for the quilt and appliqued flowers on the border I love that quilt it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling each time I see it After my father died in 1996 the quilt I made for him was such a comfort for my mother that I decided to make her a quilt of her own I made a crazy quilt with lots of flowers laces and trinkets Everyone in the family is represented in some way and the label lists everyone s birthdays and anniversaries deaths and adoptions so Mom will always have them at her fingertips Plus every time I go home to North Dakota I secretly add another charm or trinket so that every time she looks at it she ll find something new Also included in this quilt is a favorite verse Once upon a memory Someone wiped away a tear held me close and loved me thank you Mother dear Then came the terrible events of September 11 2001 I knew I wanted to make something so my grandkids would have something to mark that awful day I knew I wanted to include a flag for America and our freedom and I wanted each life lost that day to be represented by a piece of fabric The death toll was so high at first I worked on the quilt until Thanksgiving then I just had to put it away for a while as it was so depressing After the New Year I picked it up again and I a better feeling about it as the dea
31. favorite patterns many of which incorpo rate decorative serger techniques in unexpected places DEBRA BOHN Stitch Recipe Debra teaches software quilting garment construc tion heirloom and machine embroidery classes Her specialites are the artista software and embroidery systems She currently travels to many different deal erships to teach classes one of which is her popular Tips and Tricks for Successful Machine Embroidery class December 2002 SUSAN BECK Houston Quilt Festival With a background in Art and Home Economics Susan is interested in all types of sewing and crafts and has written several sewing books She loves to be creative on paper as well as in fabric and is the Director of Web and Education Communications for BERNINA of America Inc MARLIS BENNETT Hearts amp Holly Dress Marlis creates unique interpretations of classic and heirloom sewn garments incorporating deco rative stitching techniques and embroidery in imaginative projects As an Education Consultant for BERNINA of America Marlis puts her own stamp of creativity on machine sewn projects KAY LYNCH Baby Ruffles As a Card Production Assistant at OESD Inc Kay s job is to assist in the develop ment of designs and embroidery cards for BERNINA and OESD and to create projects using the embroidery designs She has a BS degree in Home Economics Education from Oklahoma State University She has
32. grati tude and often amazement at our talents from the recipient Enjoy your creating reap the benefits of sewing and have a wonderful holiday lt ugh N l g the Needle q Erp m 1 ot pe pee aea September H 2001 D gt y iy At 8 45 a m EDT a hitatked passenger jet ere Tn Flight 11 out of Boston Massachusetts aN into the north tower of the World Trade Center raia a gaping hold in the building and setting it afire At 9 03 a m a second hijacked airliner United Airlines Flight 175 from Boston crashes into the south tower of the World Trade Center and explodes Both buildings are burning At 9 43 a m American Airlines Flight 77 crashes into the Pentagon sending up a huge plume of smoke nG We Ome 0 am United Airlines Flight 93 also hijacked crashes into Somerset County Pennsylvania This jet was 1 probably headed for the White House but was brought down by passengers and crew Dai The last words reportedly said by the passengers were S Roll f at The death toll from this terrorist attack is apak ar in the tens o of thousands Behind the dead i he ly attacks is bin Laden of the Taliban in Afghaniste tan FAS E Al oes Rte T HAS This quilf wds ade to help me heal from the terror H we all rel ftei the tragedy that occurred on W ad 11 2001 Wad ted he Guill I wanted an individue red white or blu
33. ing the thread tails to the wrong side of the garment 12 Tie tails in knots close to the garment or apply seam sealant and let dry Trim excess thread SLEEVES 1 Place the edge of one sleeve right side up halfway between the needle and the knives There is no need to remove the original hemming stitches from the outfit first 2 Lettuce the edges of the sleeves in the same manner as for ruffles Through the Needle 18 BY JOJRETCHTE THE QUILTMAKER S GIFT Once upon a time there was a rather selfish king who had every thing in the world except a quilt The Quiltmaker s Gift is the charm ing story of that king and his many thwarted attempts to obtain one of the quiltmaker s special quilts This delightful storybook story text by Jeff Brumbeau with mar velously detailed illustrations by Gail de Marcken makes a wonder ful gift for anyone but especially for children and quilters who are all children at heart anyway Earlier this year BERNINA of America along with Quilters Resource Benartex fabrics and Scholatic books sponsored The Quiltmaker s Gift Quilt Challenge In keeping with the spirit of gener ousity exemplified by the quiltmak er in the story the only requirement for this contest was that the quilt must be made to be given away and be accompanied by the name of the recipient and the reason that person or charity was chosen To see more winners o
34. ipes go to the Sewing Studio and myartista 200 sections of www bernina com DENIM The mainstay of most American wardrobes is updated to go anywhere with embossed effects over dyeing and metallic fibers Most denim finishes are difficult for the home consumer to create but similar effects can be achieved with common dyes and textile paints Use Rit dye to over dye denim indigo with white warp the effect is a deeper indigo and the white threads take on the dye color brown creates a richer appearance and yields a fabric that is not so casual The denim jacket had a big showing this fall but as a blaz er with a new slimmer cut The jacket for this season has narrow puffed sleeves a band collar and patch pockets for casual wear Use a textured tweed and omit the pockets to create the new look at Chanel Coats were another big story on the runway peacoats with large buttons military styled coats leather bomber jackets and fur coats of all lengths or coats lined with fur and fur collars PANTS All versions and lengths narrow pants paired with the slim blazer or a boxier jacket wide leg or cargo style pants paired with a fit ted jacket the idea is to preserve the silhouette by contrasting the style of the pant with jacket New to the runway were cropped win ter pants narrower than the gaucho pants of the 70s updated in tweed fabric and worn with boots SKIRTS Crocheted skirts at Donna Karan
35. ise nylon sides together Serge down the side and across the bottom using a 4 thread balanced stitch Set aside POCKET PANEL Canvas 10 x 25 piece Rotary cut across the width of the panel 5 from the top Place a zipper right side down along the cut edge of the smaller canvas piece serge in place using the serger Multi Purpose foot Stitch the remaining zip per tape to the other portion of the pocket panel Make a 60 cut across the panel approximately 6 below the zipper Insert the second zipper Engage differential feed if needed to keep the fabric from stretching along the diagonal cut Convert the serger to a 3 thread narrow cover stitch Top stitch along the both sides of the upper zipper and the bottom edge only of the diagonal zipper Position the pocket panel on top of one of the remaining canvas pieces wrong side up pocket panel to right side of canvas Trim the pocket panel to fit but do not trim away the excess zipper at this time Topstitch the remaining zipper edge stitching though both layers to form the lower edge of the upper pocket Return serger to 4 thread overlock settings Cut a loop of webbing 6 long loop through key clip and serge ends together Position just inside the upper pocket and stitch in place at the sewing machine PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER Serge the remaining canvas panel to the bottom of the pocket front pack panel Position a 30 length of webbing just abo
36. onhole Through the Needle Wi May i W AW N N WY N Tk N 1 N NNN N q rr NN W AY RNY AY NN N W N We Qe eae N N N N N N y A N WW N NN KSN ry Jin FAO Mat HNN j 9 i i jin Ti mm f 4 J W N NNN N T Tu NY N NY N u Whether hunting fishing hiking or working around the yard this handy backpack will help keep you or a hiking enthusiast friend hydrated Constructed primarily on the serger this quick project makes a great gift for anyone who enjoys the outdoors add a bit of embroidery to the pocket panel for a personal touch BY JENNIFER GIGAS Yardage and cutting information is for a 2 liter reservoir Read all instructions carefully before beginning All seams allowances are unless otherwise noted CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS e FLEECE One 15 x 22 rectangle e CANVAS Two 9 x 23 rectangles One 10 x 25 rectangle e NYLON One 15 x 22 rectangle e WEBBING Two 30 lengths Two 20 lengths One 6 length INSULATED LINING CONSTRUCTION u Fleece and Nylon PEOPLE Spray one side of the nylon with 505 adhesive adhere to the metallic side of the fleece Spray the remaining side of the nylon with Fabric Shield Fabric Protector this creates a water resistant lining for the pack Serge across one 15 side to finish the edge this will become the top of the lining Fold in half length w
37. patched skirts from several designers and short flippy skirts at Chanel were some of the newer silhouettes of the season Think updated folklore bias ruffles added to A line skirts in plaid Marc Jacobs created a sweeping skirt with corduroy trimmed with a bias rayon print To duplicate this look use the Griffith Park pattern from Park Bench Patterns Park Bench Pattern Co The short flippy skirts at Chanel were paired with signature Chanel jackets Grifgith Parke with the new sleeve Short skirts abound in rich fabrics including leather yoked sometimes quilted with a little A line skirt attached to the yoke Worn with tall boots the look was fun rather than stuffy Update anything by adding fur or beaded trim Fur trims are being found by the yard in strips or look for full yardage in many faux styles When cutting fur cut from the back and use sharp narrow scissors to cut only the base fab ric not the fur Don t use a rotary cutter Scissors are more accurate and won t create a mess in your sewing area Beaded trims appear hanging off skirt hems and jacket hems they can be found in some fabric stores but also check home dec departments to find a greater assortment eA V CHECK OUT THESE PATTERNS FOR SOME OF THE NEW SILHOUETTES Butterick 3580 A slim jacket with updated sleeve and banded collar This pattern also includes flared pants great for embroidery and a tiered skirt with chiffon overlay e Vogue 7589
38. s are always stitched horizontal ly with the shaped end round or pointed of the buttonhole facing center front Yes you can cord a keyhole buttonhole Heirloom A delicate version of the traditional but tonhole with narrower side beads Heirloom garments sewn from fine linens and batistes require a finer more lightweight button hole with a narrower width Sizing and stitching this type of prepro grammed buttonhole is identical to creating stan dard buttonhole but the resulting buttonhole is much lighter in appearance Note Owners of older BERNINA models may replicate this look by decreasing the preset stitch width on their button hole beads before stitching and or by engaging the Double Needle function Browse through racks of vintage garments in your favorite antique shop and you will find many exam ples of this buttonhole style Our BERNINA machines can now dupli cate the buttonhole crafts manship of hand stitched buttonholes from years gone by Most appropriate on firmly woven fabrics this lovely buttonhole style has a more open appearance than other machine stitched version The stitches that form the right and left bead are created with a blanket stitch also called a buttonhole stitch and has only one bar tack and a rounded end This new buttonhole style is destined to soon become a favorite with gar ment and craft sewers alike ARARA AAAA eres ee TIT Ta TY Y at Ya Yi
39. sance Faires in her spare time Page 28 BY GAYLE HILLERT 8 X7e all have varying reasons for sitting in front of sewing Y V serging and embroidery machines The very act of creating can answer needs we have as human beings September 11 2001 was an unbelievably frightening experience for the entire world Different segments of society have worked through the ramifications of September 11 in different ways Many sewers began the healing process by putting fabric and threads together to speak to what they felt during the horror of that day and the days and weeks thereafter The wonderful inspi rational quilt on the cover of this issue America from the Ashes of Through the Needle is one woman s way of remem bering September 11 Studies have shown that sewing alleviates stress Many profes sionals are turning to creating with sewing systems as a way to supplement and enrich their business lives Quilters have known for generations that the rhythm and routine of quilting offers soothing and healing properties Women of years past met togeth er over a quilting frame to sew patches of fabrics together as well as share their isolation receive advice on raising children heal ing with herbs and natural ingredients and patching their own lives together with others of kindred spirits Today women sew for personal fulfillment rather than out of necessity Whether stitching quilts for loved ones designing garments which expre
40. ss a unique fashion sense or constructing items to embellish our homes we sew to express our creativity The wearable art mod December 2002 eled at the recent BERNINA Fashion Show in Houston Masquerade rep resents only a sam pling of the mar velous ways in which fabric and thread can be used to express concepts and feelings Another reason for sitting at our sewing systems 1s to create items for those we love The gift of giv ing is never more rewarding than when we have made the gift ourselves Every issue of Through the Needle offers many items for creating such as the adorable Hearts amp Holly dress for a very special little girl or the practical Hydration Pack for a favorite hiker or climber both featured in this issue Also included are quilts from The Quiltmaker s Gift challenge sponsored by BERNINA of America Quilters Resource Benartex fabrics and Scholastic books quilts that were made to be given away reflecting the spir it of giving exemplified by the generous spirit of the quiltmaker in The Quiltmaker s Gift When we give a gift we made with our BERNINA machines we often reap the benefits of the reward of giving more than the recipient There is nothing more fulfilling than planning a project concept from the very beginning selecting colors fabrics threads sitting and dreaming at our machine realizing the concept wrapping the pack age and receiving the
41. sy fabrics with ones that are more casual For instance I might try a silky top and add some organza to an edge and then put that over linen pants I m not afraid to combine things that seemingly don t go together With my Bernina I get perfect stitches on any fabric Some people can t sew on silk because they know their machine won t do it But my Bernina performs for me no matter what fabric I m working on It ll go from heavy wool to chiffon to five layers of velvet without a hiccup a ip aii l ak i Nothing Sews Like A Bernina Nothing 2002 Bernina of America Visit www berninausa com for a dealer near you Magazine Through The Needle 4 TTN4 w Stitchialk StitchTalk com your online bookstore now features a periodicle section Choose from current issues or browse for those hard to find back issues of your favorite sewing related magazines There s never been an easier way to find the exact issue you re looking for PEPA AD T E pela eed Thee eel eee DIRE TS OU ATI bie CT TUS OG SUPPLY amp DESIGN dedicated to all things Sewing SS EEE eee
42. taught serger classes for the past 12 years at Canadian Valley Technology Center in El Reno Oklahoma and at BERNINA of OKC South MARLENE BRYANT Software Skill Builders Finding time to sew recently Marlene has been cre ating whimsical and eclectic machine embroidered stitchery using the artista Designer software As an Education Consultant for BERNINA of America Marlene focuses much of her time on teaching dealers how to use the artista embroidery software Through the Needle TT 2 7 America from the Ashes Page 4 JCONTENTS Hikers Hydration Pack Page 12 The Quiltmaker s Gift Challenge Page 18 WHO WE ARE Get to know the excellent staff and stitch ers that contribute tips project ideas and stories to Through the Needle Page 1 BERNINA NEWS Healing quilts and handmade gifts are just a few of the many ways in which stitchers express their creativity and share their special talents Page 3 AMERICA FROM THE ASHES The story of one woman s effort to come to terms with the events of September 11 2001 by creating a memorial to those who lost their lives that day Pages 4 6 HEARTS amp HOLLY DRESS A precious dress for a little girl embel lished with embroidery off the edge stitching and decorative double needle pintucks Pages 7 9 BUTTONHOLE BANTER Who needs more than one buttonhole style You do Mystery buttonholes explained including
43. th toll had dropped so much Also wherever I went I saw that people that were proud to be Americans and were expressing their patriotism much more than before When the quilt was finally finished and shown in public many of the people that saw it began send ing charms and other items to me so I m continually adding to it I can t believe what a tremendous response it gets Included among the many charms military bars and jewelry pieces is a watch set at 8 45 a m representing the moment when time stopped as the first plane crashed into the World Trade Center and a tiny silver dog to commemorate the animals that went into the wreckage in search of survivors America from the Ashes has become a traveling memorial to the events of September 11th While making America from the Ashes didn t help me heal it did help me get my head and heart wrapped around what happened that terrible day And by showing the quilt and talking about it I know that I have touched a lot of hearts There are always lots of tears in the audience While it is easy to go on with life and let the import of these events slowly diminish it is important that we remember and not let them be pushed aside Through the Needle Dean 7 m ioe i a ay a i BF a E N me one l Sere a Donna Litt s America from the Ashes is a moving expression of the horror and sadness felt by people all over the world follo
44. then sew to the lower edge of left front to lower edge of right front to right side and finally to right back Trim all seam allowances from entredeux before beginning the next step DECORATIVE EDGING On the artista open an empty memory bank Enter one scallop stitch 719 Select the 4 direction menu enter directional zigzag stitch 41 Select direction 16 straight up enter two of stitch 41 into the memory Touch Edit move the needle position to the third dot from the left for both directional stitches Change the scallop stitch width to 6mm and the length to 1mm Close Edit Store design in memory Place two layers of BadgeMaster stabilizer under all entredeux edges of the collar Attach Clear Foot 34 34C Wind Designer 6 on an empty bob bin and insert into secondary bobbin case adjusting tension as needed Thread needle with Mettler Silk Finish cotton thread Position fabric so that the edge of the entredeux is directly under the left toe and aligned with the inside edge of the left toe When sewing only the V of the straight stitch scallop should stitch into the fab ric Begin sewing at the back of the collar sew around entire collar Knot beginning and ending threads and seal with seam sealant Trim threads Remove excess stabilizer Embroider one panel 6 wide by width of skirt piece of contrast fabric with the rescaled embroidery design Use two layers of BadgeMaster backed with one layer of
45. tonhole stopping with the needle down in the fabric Raise the foot and drape the cord from the back to the front Secure the ends between the two guide notches at the cen ter front of this foot Lower the presser foot and stitch the buttohole The loop will be created at the far end of this but tonhole Again when the buttonhole is complete tug on one of the filler cord tails to snug it up against the stitches Use heavy metallic serger threads as filler cord to add a subtle sparkle Consider knotting your thread tails on top of your project and fraying the ends for textural interest Classically a strand of topstitch weight thread color matched to the buttonhole thread is the filler of choice Other stable fillers include gimp pearl crown rayon and crochet cotton Take a time honored tip from tailors and use your fashion fabric thread to create your own filler cord e Cut 5 6 strands of the fashion fabric thread Bundle them together in your hand e Set your machine for a short zig zag SW 1 to Ith SL th Center the bundled threads under the presser foot and zigzag them together Custom cord Note The small round opening found in the crossbar of Embroidery Foot 6 makes it ideal for holding the multiple strands while zigzagging Just as seaming knit fabrics together requires stitch es that stretch buttonholes in knits work best when their stitches have some give Some BERNINA
46. ve the bottom seam Overlock the pack together along the side right sides together being careful to catch just the end of the webbing in the seam Pin a 25 length of webbing to the back side of the pack right sides together approximately from the finished side and 1 from the open seam Serge across the top edge of the pack to finish the raw edges and secure the webbing Position the remaining 30 length of webbing at the lower edge of the pack and overlock the remaining side seam Turn pack right side out Center hook and loop tape on the right side of the upper edge of the pack Stitch in place at the sewing machine Press in a fold 1 from the top Insert lining top of lining should be even with fold line Fold outer edge down and topstitch in place from the top edge Serge all exposed webbing ends to prevent fraying Thread web bing into buckle ends Adjust upper straps and topstitch webbing ends in place Leave lower webbing ends loose for adjusting cus tom fit Insert water reservoir leaving drinking tube accessible Use zippered pockets to keep ID keys etc safe and secure December 2002 SUPPLY LIST e BERNINA 1300DC serger e BERNINA sewing machine e Serger Multi Purpose Foot 4 cones all purpose serger thread e yard canvas or other durable fabric yard mediumweight nylon 3 yards of 1 wide nylon webbing yard HTC Thermal Fleece 6 of wid
47. wing the events of September 11 2001 Quilters as well as artists in other media have expressed their feelings and recorded events through their creative work for centuries December 2002 BY MARLIS BENNETT e BERNINA artista e BERNINA artista software e QESD embroidery design NV194 e Large artista embroidery hoop or Mega Hoop for artista 200 a e Second bobbin case for tension manipula y tion to accommodate D cor thread e Edgestitch Foot 10 10C e Embroidery Foot 15 e Pintuck Foot 31 5 groove e Clear Foot 34 34C e Binder Attachment 84 size 26 30mm with Foot 94 e 80 12 Universal needles e 75 11 Embroidery needles e 2 5 Double needle e 50wt Mettler Silk Finish thread Red e YLI Designer 6 Red e GOwt Mettler Embroidery Darning thread to match fabric e Embroidery thread as desired to complete lt embroidery design e QESD BadgelVlaster stabilizer for collar embroidery and collar edging e OESD Lightweight Tear Away stabilizer e 505 temporary spray adhesive e Fabric marking pen e Ruler e Pattern Martha Pullen s Grandmother s Hope Chest High Yoke size 18 mos e Fabric as required by pattern e Entredeux for collar edging and sleeves e Edging lace for sleeve ends e Decorative ribbon for sleeve casings e Optional Computer scanner Through the Needle Instructions Refer to pattern for detailed sewing instructions DECORATIVE FEAT
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