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BUILD THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE

1. FIT THE TAIL CONE oe he J ST1 Glue the die cut 1 8 balsa tail cone former F11TC on the end of the fuselage Remove material as needed to clear the torque rods and pushrods There must be no possibility of binding here 4 ST2 Refer to the photo at step V2 on page 44 It shows the V tail but the straight tail is the same Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood tail cone mounts to the tail cone former Cut round notches in the tail cone to clear the joiner wire Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four 2 x 3 8 screws Make sure the screws do not interfere with the elevator torque rod w ST3 Remove the elevators and joiner wire Mount the tail cone to the fuselage J ST4 Fill the small space between the top of the tail cone and the TE of the rudder with leftover balsa Use lightweight hobby filler to blend the fin to the stab and the tail cone to the fin SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE LJ 1 If you are going to hook up working lights now is a convenient time to route the wire for the light in the tail Route the wire through the formers Glue the wire to the formers with rubber cement or a drop of CA so they don t rattle around Allow enough wire to extend past former F11 so it will extend about 2 past the back of the tail cone J 2 Cut a 3 32 x 3 x 30 balsa sheet to a length of 28 True both edges of the sheet with a hobby knife and a straightedge Pin the sheet to t
2. LJ v9 Sheet the bottom of the turtle deck on the other side the same way LJ J v10 Make a top turtle deck sheet for the left side of the turtle deck with the top turtle deck pattern on the plan and one of the soft 1 16 3 x 24 balsa sheets you set aside Test fit the sheet to the turtle deck and trim where needed J LJ v11 Glue the top turtle deck sheet to the turtle deck Use a paint brush to liberally apply a 50 50 mixture of alcohol and water to the sheet especially from the leading edge of the stab to the end of the sheet Be patient bend the sheet a little at a time and keep applying water and alcohol fy a V12 Sheet the other side of the turtle deck the same way Fill in the space between the two turtle deck sheets on top near former F7A with a leftover piece of 1 16 balsa I V13 Apply hobby filler where needed Use masking tape to keep filler off the sheeting where it isn t needed Do not build up a fillet z ad V14 Trim then sand the turtle deck sheeting so it is flush with former F7A and F114 The sheeting at the front should be even with F7A where it meets the step on the side stringer IMPORTANT NOTE Some modelers prefer to sand as they build instead of waiting until the very end If you prefer to do a little sanding now to even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse sides you may do so but do not excessively thin the 1 16 turtle deck sheeting because the ABS tail cone and
3. Use the plans to make templates of the doors and the luggage hatch from a clear butyrate plastic sheet Sand the edges of the templates with 320 grit sandpaper Stick a few layers of masking tape to the bottom of the templates near the edges to raise it off the surface This will prevent the ink from wicking underneath Cut a hole in the center of the templates so you can tape them in position without the tape extending over the edges Position the templates on the fuse Trace the outlines with a Top Flite Panel Line Pen APPLY THE DECALS The decal sheet does not give you everything you need to completely trim your model but it does provide most of the intricate detailing and difficult items 1 Study your documentation package and the photos on the box to decide where to place the decals 2 Thoroughly clean your airplane before applying decals 3 Cut out the decals and carefully apply them to your model You can float the decals into position by first applying soapy water just a teaspoon of dish detergent to a quart of water to the model s surface Squeegy out the water and soap with a piece of soft balsa or a credit card wrapped with a tissue Blot the surface dry and let the decal cure for at least 12 hours before runningthe engine GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY BALANCE YOUR MODEL NOTE This section is VERY important and must NOT be omitted A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyab
4. CA to the ledge portion of the side stringer from the tirewall to former F6 Working quickly position the side sheet on the ledge of the side stringer and press it into position where you have applied the glue After the CA dries apply thin CA to the side stringer and side sheet aft of former F6 from inside the fuse A long CA applicator tip such as the Pacer Z Ends with a Teflon tube helps you apply the CA just where you need it 39 J J 6 A little section at a time carefully pry the fuse side from the fuse side doubler and apply thin or medium CA between the two Quickly press them together Do this until the fuse side is thoroughly glued to the side doubler J LJ 7 Glue the fuse side to the side stringers with thin CA and hold them together until the CA cures You can really see how the bottom half of the fuse will remain straight true and flat as flat as your building board when you remove it from your building board J 8 Return to step 1 and glue another side sheet to the left fuse side the same way J 9 Add pieces of leftover 3 32 balsa to extend the side sheets to the end of the fuselage See the photo at step 11 J 10 Remove the T pins and lift the fuselage from your building board Reinforce glue joints you couldn t reach earlier or those that don t look strong J 11 Trim then sand the fuselage side sheeting and stringers that extend aft of former F11 so they are flush GLUE THE TAIL CON
5. Glue the die cut 118 balsa aft upper former F11A to former F11 J ST2 Securely glue the die cut 1 8 plywood straight tail stab saddles to the top of the main fuse side stringer and F11A F10A i l ST3 Glue the die cut 118 plywood upper former FIOA to the top of former F10 Glue the front of the stab saddles to F10A J ST4 Use a bar sander with 80 grit sandpaper to sand the front of the stab so the TE will align with F11A LJ ST5 Use a hobby knife or a Multi Pro with a sanding drum to cut F11A to clear the horn on the elevator joiner wire and the rudder torque rod J ST6 Mark the center of the stab 1 8 from the TE Use the die cut 1 8 plywood rudder torque rod drill guide to drill a 3 16 hole through the center of the stab at the mark Make sure you drill from the top of the stab Hint A 6 piece of 3 16 brass tube sharDened at one end cuts a clean hole RUDER TOROUE ROD CUT OFF ny 518 LJ ST7 Cut the threaded end of the rudder torque rod so the threads extend 5 8 as in the sketch Tap threads in the nylon swivel horn with a 6 32 tap Thread it onto the rudder torque rod until it is even with the end LJ ST8 Insert the rudder torque rod through the hole from the bottom of the stab You ll have to force it a little because of the bend in the wire Beech Quote The Beechcraft Bonanza is a masterpiece of engineering it s an airplane that constitutes a modem miracle of aeronautical desi
6. If you have retractable landing gear remove whatever material is necessary so the retractable nose strut and steering arm will clear the cowl k iJ 11 Remove the cowl and make a template out of thin cardboard to locate the needle valve J 13 Remove the cowl and cut the hole for the needle valve Start with a small hole Mount the cowl to the fuselage and check your accuracy Enlarge the hole while you simultaneously change its position if necessary LJ 14 Use the same template method to make holes for the glow plug exhaust fueling system and engine head if necessary The location for the fuel filler valve and retract fill valve are up to you but we have provided die cut 1 8 plywood mounting brackets for these items The head on the SuperTigre 75 barely contacted the cowl in one area so we just ground away that small portion of the fins without any ill effect nna pse OO J 15 Make sure you have thoroughly sanded the inside seams of the fuselage Use 30 minute epoxy to glue 1 wide fiberglass cloth over all the seams inside the cowl Add 1 squares of glass cloth inside of the cowl over the holes for the cowl mount screws Redrill the holes after the epoxy cures 62 J 16 Fill the seams in the cowl with Bondo filler There are other fillers that you can use but we have found that Bondo works the best Squadron Green or White putty also works well but it takes longer to dry and shrinks You co
7. a 095 x 12 nose steering pushrod Connect the clevis to the servo Connect the other end of the pushrod to the Screw Lock connector in the steering arm Cut the pushrod about 1 4 past the connector Make a slight bend in the pushrod near the Screw Lock connector so it aligns with the hole in the connector Temporarily secure the pushrod to the connector with a set screw F12 Securely glue the nose steering servo tray to the servo rails Make sure your servo is centered and tighten up the 4 40 jam nut on the clevis with a drop of thread lock for extra security File small flat spots in the nose gear strut to securely hold the set screws That was easy wasn t it Now hook up the throttle It sjust as easy Skip to Hook Up The Throttle on page 55 Beech Fact Nearly 10 000 V tail Bonanzas have been manufactured and over 1 800 of its straight tailed cousins have been manufactured A very large percentage are still flying today Experts cite many factors contributing to the Bonanza s success including Walter Beeches reputation the Bonanza s built to last forever design and appearance new Class A tooling ordered before the Bonanza went into production and its all around performance Retractable nose gear Note While there are other retractable nose gear units that may work in the Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft the Robart 631 is shown in this manual because it rotates 105 and is designed specifically for
8. have access to one or use a hand drill to drill the holes with a 29 or 9 64 drill bit for 8 32 screws Tap 8 32 threads into the mount Screw the mount back onto the firewall Screw the engine to the mount with 8 32 x 1 screws to see how it fits MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR Continue with these instructions if you are installing fixed landing gear If you are installing retracts skip to Retractable gear on page 53 Fixed gear J F1 Draw a line connecting the punch marks on both die cut 1 8 plywood nose landing gear braces Cut the braces off at the line Glue the two die cut 1 8 plywood nose gear plates together Ll F2 Place the braces over their location on the plan Mark the location of the 1 4 plywood landing gear rails onto the braces I F3 Remove the engine mount from the firewall L F4 Cut a bevel on the end of the 1 4 x 9 16 x 9 plywood landing gear rails to match the angle on the end of the braces Test fit a rail through the right side of the firewall and in the notch in former F2 Position the right brace and align the front of the rail with the front of the brace Mark the rail 1 8 aft of former F2 Remove the rail and cut it at the mark Mark the other rail in the same manner J F5 Use 30 minute epoxy to simultaneously glue the rails to the firewall and former F2 and the rail braces to the rails and the firewall Make sure the front of the rails are even with the front of the bra
9. masking tape with an arrow on it near the other end of the string Slide the tape along the string and align the arrow with the corner of one of the stab halves Swing the tape over to the other corner on the other side of the stab Shift the stab and slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with both corners of the stab J ST6 Mark the LE of the stab where it aligns with former F10A ALIGN THE STAB HORIZONTALLY J STI Place two clothespins on the top of former F4 and rest a straightedge on the top of the fuse sides propped up against the clothespins See the following photo ST2 Stand behind the fuselage and view the stab and the straightedge to see if they align If necessary carefully sand one side of the stab saddle so the stab will align with the straightedge J ST3 Move the rudder pushrod wire back and forth to make sure the clevis and horn do not interfere with the fuse sides and the rudder torque rod can move freely If necessary adjust the pushrod wire or the clearance slot in the stab saddle There must not be any possibility of binding here I ST4 Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the stab to the saddle Place the stab on the saddle so the marks you made earlier align Before the epoxy cures confirm alignment once more using the pin and string technique Do not proceed until the epoxy has fully cured 46 MOUNT THE FIN LJ STI Trim the sheeting on the bottom of the fin u
10. molded into the cowl You can cut the louvers out or just paint them black Scale Lighting We ve provided details for how to mount your wing tip lights while you were building the wing The rest of the wire routing and hookups are easy because everything else is open and accessible Fit the rest of the wiring and lights Temporarily mount the circuit boards and the battery holders so you can relocate them in case you need to adjust the C G Follow the instructions that come with the lighting kit to hook up and operate your lights FINAL SANDING Nearly all imperfections in your wood structure will show through the covering Make one last check of the entire structure Repair dings or scratches with filler Sand all surfaces with progressively finer grits of sandpaper COVER YOUR MODEL WITH MONOKOTE FILM It is assumed that you are an intermediate to advanced modeler so we won t go into many details on covering techniques but here are some tips you should consider 1 Most importantly NEVER CUT THE COVERING DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING The Bonanza depends greatly upon the sheeting for its strength Modelers who do this tend to cut into the sheeting and this will weaken the structure 2 Remove all dust from the structure with a vacuum with a brush attachment compressed air or a Top Flite Tack Cloth 3 Use a Top Flite Hot Sock to minimize dents in the wood from the iron 4 Some modelers have three irons going at once o
11. replace them at least once a year J 5 Sheet the forward fuse deck with leftover 3 32 balsa After you glue the sheeting in position sand the front even with the firewall Sand the back even with FIA but do not sand the rest of the sheeting until you fit the cabin E16 If you re installing retracts turn the fuselage over and build a small framework from leftover balsa to support the sheeting around the nose wheel cutout 17 Use leftover 1 16 balsa sheeting to seal the area around the nose gear between F1 and F2 This will prevent fuel and exhaust residue from entering the fuselage U8 Use leftover 3 32 balsa to sheet the bottom forward fuse aft of the cowl Cut the wheel well for the nose wheel and strut if you are installing retracts T9 Remove the tank and foam rubber Coat the inside of the fuselage between the firewall and former F2 including the back of the firewall with fuel proof paint epoxy or finishing resin FIT THECGASIN TOP 1 Bevel one end of four 1 2 x 1 2 x 5 8 basswood blocks so they fit between the fuse main side stringers and formers F3 and F6 where shown on the plan Glue the blocks in position 2 If your fuel tank is in the fuse remove it for now 1 3 Place the die cut 1 8 plywood cabin crutch on the fuselage so it is centered and the edges slightly extend past the side stringers Use masking tape to hold the cabin crutch to the fuselage 44 Drill four 1
12. the aft cabin former on top of the crutch Place a piece of thin cardboard between the aft cabin former and F7A The thickness of the cardboard should be approximately 1 64 or 015 This is to provide a little clearance for painting and covering Trace the outline of F7A onto the piece of cardboard Cut approximately 1 4 outside of the line you drew Reposition the cardboard shim and glue the aft cabin former to the crutch with the shim in place J 11 Make a shim and glue the front cabin former to the crutch the same way LJ 12 Temporarily position some balsa sticks between the front and aft cabin formers to make sure they and the shims tightly contact the fuse You are going to fit the cabin top to the shims so the more accurately they fit the fuse the more accurately your cabin top will fit the fuse I 13 Position the cabin top on the fuse so the front contacts the cardboard shim and the centerline on the cabin top aligns with the centerline on the fuse Use a lead pencil to mark areas of the front of the cabin top that need to be sanded for a perfect fit Carefully and lightly sand the areas you marked erase the pencil marks and reposition the cabin top Continue to mark sand and fit the cabin top until the front fits well 1 14 Perform the same procedure to the aft edge of the rear of the cabin top until it fits the rear cardboard shim and the cabin top drops into place _J 15 With the cabin top on
13. the fuse make your pencil marks where the bottom needs to be trimmed Sand the bottom edges of the cabin top until it fits i 16 Thoroughly roughen the entire inside of the cabin top with 220 grit sandpaper so glue and paint will stick J 17 Use a Dremel tool with a carbide cutter or a similar type of rotary tool or small scissors to cut the window openings along the cutlines inside the cabin top The window outlines in the cabin top are about 1 16 smaller than the windows themselves 58 This will allow you to accurately fit the windows later but do not enlarge the openings yet just roughlycut them along the cutlines for now MOUNT THE CABIN TOP A 1 Remove the screws that temporarily hold the crutch to the fuse Glue four pieces of 3 4 x 3 4 leftover 1 8 plywood to the crutch over the holes Using the holes in the crutch as a guide drill 1 16 holes up through the 1 8 ply pieces you just glued on Temporarily screw the crutch to the fuse with the screws J 2 One at a time remove a screw and enlarge the hole through the crutch and the blocks in the fuse with a 1 8 drill After you drill each hole temporarily insert a 4 40 x 3 4 Phillips head screw to hold the crutch in alignment as you drill the rest of the holes J 3 Remove the crutch from the fuse and press 4 40 blind nuts into the holes in the top of the crutch Glue them with a little thin CA LJ 4 Lightly spray the edges of the c
14. the servo rails Position the mounts and the tray so the output shaft of the servo is centered between the 1 8 holes in former F2 Glue the servo tray and the mounts in this position 4 R12 Cut two 4 5 8 pieces from the white nose steering cable inner pushrod guide tube and slide the pieces through the holes in the firewall and former F2 Glue the tubes to the firewall and F2 CONNECT THE NOSE STEERING PULL PULL Several pull pull steering cable systems are available that will work in your Bonanza We selected the Sonictronics 121 Pro Contro l Cable System J R1 Enlarge the hole in two Screw Lock pushrod connectors with a 46 or 5 64 drill bit Mount the screw lock connectors to a large servo arm and fasten each with a nylon retainer Connect one end of a 14 long pull pull cable to a threaded rod included with the pull pull steering set using the swage to secure the cable Fit the threaded rod into one of the Screw Lock connectors and temporarily lock it down with a 4 40 x 118 socket head screw Connect another piece of cable to the other Screw Lock connector the same way then thread the cable through the guide tubes toward the nose gear strut J R2 Install a 0 80 threaded ball link ball not included onto the arm on both sides of the nose wheel strut with a 0 80 nut Connect the other end of both cables to the threaded ball links with the swages Tighten the loop in the cable just enough So it will not come off
15. up the pushrods Make sure you can move the controls without any interference or binding Make adjustments if necessary The twin engine Model 18 was being produced for the military in a variety of configurations But as unpatriotic as it may have seemed at the time one had to think ahead to postwar years The twin would certainly continue but the Model 17 Staggerwing was a question mark the biplane was on its way out The trend was continuing toward all metal light planes started by Luscombe as early as 1934 At Beechcraft design work on a new model was to be done on a voluntary overtime basis After much careful study of the market to find out what type of plane to build and after hours of design wind tunnel and static testing on December 22 1945 the first Bonanza was on its maiden voyage ilown by test pilot Vem Carstens 47 BUILD THE TURTLE DECK JJ ST1 Glue formers F7A F8A and F9A to the tops of their respective formers J LJ ST2 Cut the turtle deck stringers from seven 3 16 x 3 16 x 30 balsa sticks Glue the stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo Note the arrangementof the stringers at F9A Important Align the formers with a straightedge as you glue the stringers to them J LJ ST3 Sand the stringers and formers so they blend together J LJ ST4 The turtle deck is sheeted with four 1 16 balsa sheets one sheet on the bottom of each s
16. wheel steering servo and tray between the rails Adjust the position of the aft rail to fit your servos Glue the aft servo rail in place Do not glue the servo trays in place until instructed to do so 1 4 Glue the FIT FIDT assembly to the top of the firewall Use a straightedge to make sure they align C1 5 Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood firewall doubler to the back of the firewall centered on the engine mount punch marks 1 8 below the notch in the center of F1DT as shown on the plan FIXED LANDING GEAR VIEWED FROM THE FRONT 7 32 RETRACT LANDING GEAR IVIEWED FROM THE FRONT Q 6 Drill the correct size holes through the punch marks on the front of the firewall as shown in the sketches above Tightly hold a thick block of wood on the back so the drill does not split the wood when it comes through 1 7 Press four 8 32 blind nuts into the holes on the back of the firewall Use an 8 32 x 1 1 2 socket head cap screw with some large washers to draw the blind nuts into the wood Wick thin CA around the back of the blind nuts to permanently hold them in place l LJ 8 Temporarily clamp the die cut 1 8 plywood tank floor to the forward servo rail so it is centered on the back of the firewall doubler Turn the fuselage over and push the tank floor up until it contacts the edge of the bottom blind nuts Glue a 3 16 x 3 16 x 3 balsa stick to the back of the firewall under the tank floor to serve as a forwar
17. 16 holes through the crutch into the center of the blocks you glued to the fuse After you drill each hole temporarily hold the crutch to the fuse with a 2 x 1 2 screw 35 Use a ballpoint pen to mark areas of the crutch that need to be sanded for a perfect fit to the fuse main side stringers Remove the crutch sand 57 the edges and screw it back onto the fuse A little at a time mark then trim the crutch until it accurately fits the fuse main side stringers 36 Use scissors to cut the molded ABS cabin top along the cutlines which are most visible from inside the cabin top The cabin top will be slightly oversize to allow you to trim it for an exact fit to your model Use a felt tip pen to mark the molded in center marks at the front and aft edges of the cabin top so they will be easier to see while fitting Do not trim the cabin top to fit your fuse until instructed to do so W 7 Lightly mark the center of the front fuse sheeting over former F2A over the center stringer Mark the center of the turtle deck sheeting over former F7A over the center stringer J 8 Position the die cut 1 8 plywood aft cabin former F7B on top of the crutch so it contacts former F7A Lightly sand the edges of F7B so there is approximately a 1 16 difference between F7B and F7Ato accommodate the cabin top 19 Test fit and shape the die cut 1 8 plywood forward cabin former F2B to former F2A the same way 1 110 Reposition
18. ABS cabin have yet to b fitted and must match the sheeting It s beginning to look like a Bonanza isn t it HOOK UP THE RUDDERVATORS V1 Cut the remaining two hinge slots on the TE of the stabilizers Test fit the ruddervators to the stab with the hinges al V2 Tap threads into both nylon swivel horns with a 6 32 tap Thread one of the swivel horns onto one of the ruddervator torque rods so the bottom of the swivel is 7 16 from the end of the torque rod Thread the other swivel horn onto the other ruddervator torque rod the same amount Compare the two torque rods and make sure both swivels are threaded on the same amount 43 I V3 Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to extend the centerlines on the stab TE until they meet in the center of FIIA Position the torque rods on the centerlines so the swivels are 3 16 apart Accurately mark the location of the arm portion of the torque rods that fit into the ruddervators on the TE of the stab J V4 Remove the torque rods and fit the ruddervators to the stab with the hinges Transfer the marks to the LE of the ruddervators l V5 Drill a 1 8 hole in the center of the leading edge of the ruddervators at the marks you made Cut a groove in the LE s to accommodate the torque rods Test fit the ruddervators to the stab with the torque rods Hint Use a 1 8 brass tube sharpened at one end to cut the grooves for the torque rods LJ V6 Cut away form
19. AILERONS 3 4 up 1 2 up 3 4 down 1 2 down FLAPS Takeoff Landing 1 down 2 down Right Left Elevator Elevator RIGHT RUDDER 1 4 down 1 4 up LEFT RUDDER 3 4 up 1 2 down This is the amount of elevator throw with ruddet input only Caution Use care when you assemble your Bonanza at the flying field DO NOT lay the fuselage upside down resting on the cabin top as this could cause the windows to loosen STRAIGHT TAIL CONTROL SURFACE THROWS These control surface throws are for the straight tail model only We recommend the following ontrol surface throws NOTE Throws are measured at the widest part Df the control surface High Rate 11 16 up 11 16 down Low Rate 9 16 up 9 16 down ELEVATOR RUDDER 1 right 1 left 3 4 right 314 left AILERONS 3 4 up 314 down 1 2 up 112 down FLAPS Takeoff 1 down Landing 2 down NOTE This applies to both the V tail and straight tail TRIM MIXING If your transmitter has flap to Elevator mixing we recommend mixing 1 32 of down elevator at half flaps and 1 16 of down elevator at full flaps This will keep the nose level when the flaps are deployed The surface throws and balance point listed in this manual are the ones at which the Bonanza flies best Set up your aircraft to those specifications If after a few flights you would like to adjust the throws to suit your tastes that is fine The Bonanza has large el
20. BUILD THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE ld 1 Cut a 45 degree angle at the aft end of two 1 4 x 3 8 x 36 stepped balsa side stringers so you can splice them onto another stringer later STEP 7 LJ 2 Pin the stringers over their location on the plan so the step is on the bottom and faces the outside of the fuselage The front end of the stringers should align with the dashed lines near the front and extend past the firewall by 1 8 Use plenty of T pins to hold the stringers down so they conform to the curvature of the plan Wl 3 Cut another 1 4 x 3 8 x 36 stepped balsa side stringer in half Bevel one end of both stringers to match the angles you cut on the stringers already pinned to the plan Pin the stringers to the plan and glue them to the front stringers with thin CA Trim the ends so they extend past former F11 by approximately 1 8 You can see the splice in the following photo I 4 Position but do not glue formers F1 through F11 on the side stringers so the embossed names on the formers face forward Are your 3 76 pushrod holes drilled Ll 5 Glue formers F2 through F11 to the side stringers holding them vertical with a 90 degree triangle Don t be concerned about formers that are slightly warped or twisted that is normal You will be able to straighten these formers when you glue the 3 16 stringers to them oy 6 Glue the firewall to the side stringers using the die cut 1 8 plywood firewall
21. D LI 5 Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges If necessary insert a pin in the center of the hinges to keep them centered in the elevator and stab Make sure there is approximately a 1 64 gap between the elevators and the stab so you do not glue them together J 6 Cut a paper towel into 2 squares Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on both the top and bottom Use the paper towel squares to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap before it cures Do not use CA accelerator on any of the hinges and do not glue the hinges with anything but thin CA Do not attempt to glue one half of the hinge at a time The hinges will not be properly secured and could come out while the model is in flight 65 J F Glue the bearing tubes to the TE with a dab of 30 minute epoxy 3 J 8 Use the same hinging method to join the rudder to the fin if building the straight tail and the ailerons to the wing I 9 Thoroughly roughen the flap hinges with coarse sandpaper Mix enough 30 minute epoxy to do one flap at a time Use a piece of leftover wire to thoroughly coat the holes in one of the flaps and the holes in the wing with the epoxy Coat one side of the flap hinges with epoxy and insert them into the wing Coat the other side of the hinges with epoxy and join the flap Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures LJ LJ 10 Position the flap and the hinges so the flap is centered and fits the wing Tape the fl
22. E TOGETHER LJ 1 Cut both formed ABS tail cone halves along the cutlines The cutlines can be most easily seen from the inside We highly recommend a pair of curved Kyosho Lexan Scissors because you can cut straight lines or small tight curves easily and accurately You could also use a small pair of regular scissors or score the plastic along the cutlines with a hobby knife and flex the plastic until the excess breaks free J 2 True the edges of both tail cone halves with coarse sandpaper and a bar sander Thoroughly sand the mating surfaces so glue will stick Carefully glue the tail cone halves together with thin CA Use just a few drops at a time Note Do not use CA accelerator on any of the ABS plastic Accelerator may cause the plastic to develop cracks over time and prevent some types of paint from sticking J 3 Trim the clear plastic tail lens to fit on the end of the tail cone Do not glue the tail lens in place until after you paint the tail cone J 4 If you are installing a tail navigation light make an aft tail cone former from a piece of leftover ABS plastic and glue it to the rear of the tail cone Drill a 5 32 hole in the rear of the tail cone for the tail light lens included with the lighting kit Test fit the tail light 40 nir Fe If you are building the straight tail Skip to Mount the Sfraight Tail Stab and Fin on page 45 MOUNT THE V TAIL STAB Note Build accurate
23. Shape and fit the other fairing block the same way 46 Use lightweight hobby filler to blend the belly pan to the wing and sand it smooth after it dries BUILD AND FIT THE COWL TO THE FUSELAGE 1 Cut the molded ABS cowl left side right side and front along the cutlines seen from the inside Cut a notch in the top of the right cowl half and the bottom of the left cowl half so the lap joints do not interfere On the aft edges of the right and left cowl sides cut about 1 8 aft of the cutlines This gives you a little extra material to work with so you can accurately fit the cowl to the fuse Cut the openings in the front of the cowl If you have one use a rotary hand tool with a cutting burr followed by a sanding drum Sand the edges so they are straight and even J 2 Thoroughly sand all areas that are to be glued including a 1 2 strip along the inside edges of the cowl so the fiberglass reinforcement tape will stick J 3 Tape the cowl together with masking tape Test fit the cowl to the fuse Glue the seams with thin CA LJ 4 Test fit the die cut 1 8 plywood cowl rings on the firewall If necessary sand the edges of the cowl rings so they are inset from the edges of the balsa fuselage sides approximately 1 16 Glue the cowl rings to the firewall J 5 With the engine mounted fit the cowl to the fuselage Mark the high spots on the aft edge of the cowl where you need to remove material so it ac
24. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the model until the epoxy is fully cured 41 J V11 Turn the fuselage over and inspectthe glue joints that hold the stab in place If necessary add 30 minute epoxy to joints that may not have received enough J V12 After the epoxy fully cures sand the joiner portion of flush with the top and bottom of the stabs Add balsa filler if needed Sand the filler so it is smooth and matches the contour of the stab sheeting Beech Fact In the April 1959 issue of Fortune Magazine the Beechcraft Bonanza was included in the 100 best designs list The only other aircraft included in the list was another world famous airplane the Douglas DC 3 E BUILD THE TURTLE DECK 4 V1 Glue formers F7A F8A and F9A to the tops of their respective formers J v2 Cut the turtle deck stringers from six 3 16 x 3 16 x 36 balsa sticks Trim the aft edge of the stringers that contact the stab so they fit the sheeting Glue the stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo Note the arrangement of the stringers at F9A Important Align the formers with a straightedge as you glue them to the stringers J v3 Sand the stringers and formers so that they will blend J J V4 The turtle deck is sheeted with four 1 16 balsa sheets one sheet on the bottom of each side of the turtle deck and one sheet on the fop of each side of the turtle d
25. angle gauge to hold the firewall at the correct angle 37 J 7 Test fit then glue the die cut 1 8 plywood fuse side doublers to formers F2 through F6 only and to the side stringers Do not glue the doublers to the firewall until the next step You may have to reposition some of your T pins so they do not interfere with the side doublers Use your 90 triangle to hold the formers vertical while you glue the doublers to them ul 8 Glue the fuse side doublers to the firewall with 30 minute epoxy using the firewall angle gauge to make sure the firewall is set at the correct angle Use a large C clamp or masking tape to securely hold the doublers to the firewall until the epoxy fully cures Cut one 3 long piece from each of the 2 1 2 x 36 balsa tri stock pieces Shape the pieces so they fit between the firewall and the fuse sides on both the left and right sides behind the firewall Glue them in place with 30 minute epoxy LJ 9 Locate two of the 24 pushrod tubes Sand the outside of the tubes so glue will stick Slide them through the holes in formers F6 through F10 so they extend forward of former F6 by Do not glue the pushrod tubes in place until instructed to do so Refer to these photos for the next four steps Disregard the servos 10 Glue the 3 16 x 1 2 x 9 7 8 balsa bottom fuse sheeting support in position Sand the ends even with the fuse side doublers Cut and fit but do not glue the aft bottom fuse s
26. ap in place until the epoxy is fully cured LJ 11 Join the other flap to the wing the same way Q 12 Reinstall any pushrods you may have disconnected while covering and mount the control horns to the ailerons GLUE IN THE WINDOWS 0 1 Use a special canopy glue such as J amp Z Products Z RC 56 JOZR5007 to glue the windows to the cabin top This kind of glue is formulated for plastic and dries clear Wipe away excess glue with a tissue dampened with water before it dries Use masking tape to hold the windows to the inside of the cabin top until the glue is dry If you decide to use CA use medium CA not thin Use it sparingly and do not use accelerator J 2 Trim the clear plastic tail lens to fit the tail cone MAKE DOOR AND HATCH OUTLINES Use a Top Flite Panel Line Pen to draw the door and baggage compartment hatch outlines or use a Smart Stripe to cut narrow strips of MonoKote Film and iron them on If you use the Panel Line Pen use a straightedge with a few pieces of masking tape stuck to the underside of the straightedge to keep the ink from wicking underneath it Use the Top Flite Scale Template for rivets hatches fuel caps and other details Some cleaners will remove the ink lines so test your cleaner before you spray it on your model You can remove mistakes with alcohol You ll need to touch up some of the lines from time to time because they fade with lots of handling and fuel spillage D D mor me
27. ces El F6 Drill 1 8 holes through the punch marks in the nose gear plate Press four 4 40 blind nuts into the holes in the plate and secure them with thin CA 52 LJ F7 Position the nose gear plate on the front of the braces Trim the rails so the blind nuts do not interfere Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the nose gear plate to the rails and rail braces Hold the plate in position with masking tape until the epoxy is fully cured Add balsa triangle braces as shown on the plan cut from leftover fuse corner stringers See the photo at step 11 J F8 Mount the nylon nose gear bearing to the nose plate with four 4 40 x 1 2 screws Enlarge the holes in the nose gear bearing for the nose gear strut with a 10 drill bit if you don t have a numbered drill set an 11 64 drill bit will work too LJ F9 Enlarge the outer hole in the black nylon steering arm with a 41 drill bit or a hobby knife Mount the heavy duty Screw Lock connector to the steering arm with the one way star washer Mount the 3 16 nose gear wire to the nose gear bearing with a 3 16 wheel collar and set screw and the steering arm and a 6 32 x 1 4 socket head cap screws as shown on the plan Notice that the steering arm is slightly off center when the nose gear is centered a FIO Temporarily fit your nose steering servo and tray on the forward servo rails Fit a servo arm to your servo J F11 Thread a 4 40 hex nut followed by a 4 40 metal clevis onto
28. curately fits the fuselage and aligns with the backplate of your spinner At first the cowl will be too long but as you zero in on the fit place the backplate of your spinner on your engine to help you align the front of the cowl This is a cut and fit procedure that takes a little time but it s one of those areas where you can really show your craftsmanship Take your time and remove small amounts of material at a time 61 Note If the head of the engine the needle valve or carburetor interferes with the cowl remove them for the time being J 6 Test fit eight 1 2 x 1 2 x 5 8 maple cowl mount blocks in the notches in the cowl ring Sand the blocks so they match the shape of the cowl Glue them in place Mark the center of each cowl mount block on the fuselage Test fit the cowl to the fuselage to make sure none of the blocks interferes with the cowl LI 7 Securely tape the cowl to the fuselage Using the marks as a guide drill 1 16 holes through the cowl and the cowl mount blocks 1 4 in front of the aft edge of the cowl Hint After you drill each hole screw ina 2 x 3 8 screw to keep the cowl accurately aligned as you proceed 8 Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes in the cowl only with a 3 32 drill bit LJ 9 Test fit the cowl to see how it fits Use 2 x 3 8 screws to hold it in place L 10 If you have fixed landing gear cut a slot in the bottom of the cowl to clear the landing gear wire
29. d tank floor ledge Do not glue the tank floor to the ledge until instructed to do so J 9 If you have not already done so sand the fuselage side doublers and fuselage sides so they are flush with the front of the firewall O 10 Cut the spacer bar off both engine mount halves and trim off any flashing so they easily fit together Loosely bolt your engine mount to the firewall with four 8 32 x 1 1 4 socket head cap screws 8 lock washers and flat washers Adjust the mount so your engine will fit Tighten the screws to securely hold the mount to the firewall Use small clamps to hold your engine to the mount so the front of the drive washer or the back plate of your spinner is 6 1 4 from the firewall Mount a flat wood stick or the back plate of your spinner to the engine so you can measure the distance Beech Fact In addition to the aforementioned benefits the V tail offers others include lower manufacturing costs through fewer parts fewer parts for Beech dealers to stock reduced damage from debris thrown from the prop and wheels and spin recovery superior to that of an airplane with a conventional tail 51 E 11 Mark the engine mounting bolt holes on the mount Hint Mark the holes with a wire rod sharpened at one end Heat the tip of the rod with a torch to dimple the engine mount in the center of the holes LJ 12 Remove the engine from the mount and the mount from the firewall Use a drill press if you
30. e the Bonanza really scoots along so you should manage the throttle when performing high G diving maneuvers such as split esses and loops CAUTION THIS APPLIES TO ALL R C AIRPLANES If while flying you notice any unusual sounds such as a low pitched buzz this may indicate control surface flutter Because flutter can quickly destroy components of your airplane any time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane Check all servo grommets for deterioration this may indicate which surface fluttered and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play If the control surface fluttered once it probably will flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the free play or flexing in the linkages Here are some things which can result in flutter Excessive hinge gap Not mounting control horns solidly Poor fit of clevis pin in horn Side play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight bends Poor fit of Z bend in servo arm Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire Excessive play or backlash in servo gears and Insecure servo mounting LANDING When it s time to land fly a normal landing pattern and approach The Bonanza may bleed off airspeed more rapidly than the sport planes you are used to but it still tends to float once it enters ground effect For this reason be prepared to add a little power during approach and touchdown For
31. eck Examine the four 1 16 x 3 x 24 balsa sheets and set the two softest sheets aside to be used for the tops J LJ v5 Follow the Hot Tip that follows and make the skin for the bottom of the left turtle deck side from one of the 1 16 balsa sheets you selected for the bottom Use the bottom turtle deck sheet pattern on the plan to cut the sheet to the approximate shape D O morre How to use the patterns to make the turtle deck skins Cut the pattern from the plan Spray the back of the pattern and one of the sheets with 3M 75 Repositionable Spray Adhesive Press the sheets together and press the pattern onto one of the sheets Cut the skins along the lines with a sharp 11 blade J LU v6 Test fit the bottom turtle deck sheet and trim where needed The top edge of the sheet ends in the center of the third stringer If necessary wet the sheet with a 50 50 solution of alcohol and water so it will bend easier Hint The best way to accurately cut the sheet to fit your model is with careful test fitting close observation and removing only small amounts of material at a time When done this way you will be rewarded with a great looking model even before you cover it Then sheeting will be your favorite part 42 OQ A v7 Glue the bottom turtle deck sheet to the stringers formers and stab J LJ V8 Fill in the small wedge between the bottom turtle deck sheet and the fuse side with a leftover piece of 1 16 balsa
32. en the fuse bottom and glue these in permanently Never stick weights to the cowl because it is not designed to support weight BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY D 1 Mount your wing fd 2 With the wing level carefully lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the fin or tail cone this may require two people Do this several times I 3 If one wing always drops when you lift the model that side is heavy Balance the airplane by gluing weight inside the other wing tip An airplane that has been laterally balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers INSTALL YOUR RECEIVER BATERY PACK AND RETRACT COMPONENTS The location of your receiver and battery pack may be determined by the C G On our prototypes we mounted the battery pack and receiver nearly as far forward as possible With this arrangement no additional ballast was required to achieve the recommended C G If this is where you wish to mount your battery pack and receiver you may use the mounting plates provided with this kit or fashion your own method to secure your battery pack and receiver J 1 Securely glue a die cut 1 8 plywood plate back to the die cut 1 8 plywood radio mounting plate 67 S 3 2 Secure your battery pack to the mounting plate with a few rubber bands and 1 4 thick foam rubber in between Test fit the battery pack and mounting plate in the front of the fuse as shown in the photo Securely glue the m
33. er F1 IAV so the torque rods can move back and forth Reposition the ruddervators with the torque rods and make sure they do not interfere with former F11AV It should look something like the photo when you re done Ld V7 Cut 7 frOm the non threaded end of a 074 x 36 pushrod wire Clean residual oil from the wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other solvent Cut six 1 4 long bushings from the white inner pushrod tube then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become stuck during flight If the bushings slide onto the wire easily hold them in place with a drop of thin CA Make sure the CA cures before you proceed so you do not inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes Slide a silicone retainer onto a nylon clevis and thread the clevis onto the wire about 15 full turns Make a second pushrod the same way I V8 Install the pushrods in the guide tubes Temporarily connect the clevises to the torque rods and fit the ruddervators to the stab Place a servo arm on your ruddervator servos 1 1 4 1 V9 With the servos centered and the ruddervators neutral use a felt tip pen to mark the pushrods exactly 1 1 4 from the holes in the servo arms Remove the pushrods from the fuselage Cut them at the marks you made J V10 Silver solder a threaded coupler onto each wire pushrod Reinsert the pus
34. es Walter and Olive formed the Beech Aircraft Co whose first plane into production was the Model 17R negative stagger wing biplane which later became known as the Beech Staggerwing SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING CENTER SECTION J 1 Install your servo extension cords Y connectors and air lines if you are installing retracts The servo extension cords don t have to be connected to the servos and the air lines don t have to be connected to the retracts but they should be installed so you can finish the sheeting Plan this carefully Be certain you have connected both aileron extension cords into the same Y connector and both flap extension cords into the same Y connector Give yourself plenty of slack on the wires and air lines so you will be able connect everything after you cover your model J 2 Sheet the bottom of the wing center section with two 3 32 x 3 x 30 balsa sheets and leftover 3 32 balsa if needed Before you glue the sheet that goes over the wing bolts first cut two 1 lengths from the 9 16 diameter x 8 cardboard tube Glue that sheet in position with the cardboard tubes Glue the cardboard tubes to the sheeting and wing bolt plates After the glue dries cut and sand the tubes flush with the sheeting Hint Temporarily fit the flaps to the wing and cut the ends of the bottom aft sheet to provide the correct spacing at the ends of the flaps MAKE THE BELLY PAN J 1 Bolt the wing to the fu
35. ething round such as a pen or a piece of brass tube This will allow you to plug the wing into the fuselage without too much resistance 3 12 Spread a thin film of 30 minute epoxy on one side of both wing dowel plates and fit them over the dowels protruding through former F2D inside the fuse Accurately mark the location of the plates on F2D m 13 Remove the wing Clamp the wing dowel plates to F2D with C clamps Wipe excess epoxy from the holes if any is present SHEET THE FORWARD DECK AND BOTTOM 4 1 Assemble your fuel tank Position the tank floor and the tank in the fuselage and determine where to drill the holes for the fuel lines Drill the holes with a 1 4 drill or 15 64 drill for a better fit J 2 Remove the tank and tank floor Position the die cut 1 8 plywood cabin crutch on the fuse main side stringers so the aft edge contacts former F7A Position the die cut 1 8 plywood former FIA on the fuse main side stringer so it contacts the 56 crutch Glue F1A to the side stringers only Remove the crutch 3 3 Cut the stringers from pieces of leftover 3 16 x 3 16 balsa to fit from F1A to the firewall Glue the stringers in position while using a 90 degree triangle to hold F 1A perpendicular to the top of the stringers J 4 Place 1 4 foam rubber on the tank floor Test fit your fuel tank with 32 rubber bands included with this kit Note Rubber bands deteriorate over time so you should
36. evators and does not require much throw Too much throw can force it into a stall so remember More is not better PREFLIGHT CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer BALANCE YOUR PROPELLERS Carefully balance your propellers before you fly An unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen possibly with disastrous effect but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam which will in turn cause your engine to run hot or quit We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer TOPQ5700 in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer GPMQ5000 in our flight box FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY The best place to fly your model is an AMA chartered R C club flying field Contact the AMA their address is on page 3 or your hobby shop dealer for the club in your area and join it Club fields are intended for R C flying making your outing safer and more enjoyable The AMA also provides insurance in case of a flying accident If an RIC flying field is not available find a large 69 grassy area at least six miles from buildings st
37. f a 54 piece of string and connect it to the T pin in the top of the firewall Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow on it near the other end of the string Slide the tape along the string and align the arrow with the corner of one of the stab halves Swing the tape over to other corner on the other stab half Shift the stab halves and slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with the corners on both stab halves Once you have confirmed that the stabs will align remove them from the fuselage J V8 Glue the 1 16 plywood V tail LE doubler to the front of former F1OAV with 30 minute epoxy Study the next three steps before you proceed Then work quickly and carefully J V9 Mix enough 30 minute epoxy to thoroughly coat both sides of the joiners on former F1OAV and the insides of the stab halves where they contact the joiners You may add some Great Planes Milled Fiberglass to the epoxy to thicken it and add strength a V10 Coat both sides of the forward V tail LE doublers the front of the rear joiners the tops of the saddles the insides of the stab halves where they contact the joiners and the TE of the stabs where they contact the joiners with epoxy Slide the stab halves into position and use rubber bands to hold them in place Use the pin and string to align the stab halves and if necessary use T pins or masking tape to hold them in position Apply a fillet of epoxy where both stab halves meet
38. gn and in our opinion marks a new milestone in the progress of aviation Walter H Beech August 1 1946 45 CENTER THE STAB LJ ST1 Cut 7 from the non threaded end of a 074 x 36 pushrod wire Clean residual oil from the wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other solvent Cut six 1 4 long bushings from the white inner pushrod tube then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become stuck during flight If the bushings slide onto the wire easily hold them in place with a drop of thin CA Make sure the CA cures before you proceed so you do not inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes Slide a silicone retainer onto a nylon clevis and thread the clevis onto the wire about 15 full turns Make a second pushrod the same way LJ ST2 Connect one of the pushrods to the nylon swivel horn on the rudder torque rod and slide the pushrod into the rudder pushrod guide tube in the fuselage Position the stab on the stab saddle Place a weight on top of the stab to hold it in place ST3 Align the TE of the stab with the center of former F1 1 Mark the TE of the stab above the stab saddles J ST4 Insert a T pin in the center of the top of the firewall I ST5 Tie a loop on one end of a 54 piece of string and connect it to the T pin in the top of the firewall Put a piece of
39. he bottom of the fuselage in the center so the end butts against the front edge of the tail cone 3 True both edges of another 3 32 x 3 x 30 balsa sheet Position the sheet on the bottom of the fuselage next to the center sheet Use a ballpoint pen to mark the side of the fuselage onto the sheet Cut the sheet along the line you drew Do the same with the remainder of the sheet on the other side of the fuselage 0 4 Glue the three bottom sheets together After the glue dries sand the fuselage bottom sheet so it is flat and the edges are even Sand the bottom at the formers and stringers so that they are even and flat Glue the fuselage bottom sheet to the bottom of the fuselage 4 5 Shape the bottom corners of the fuselage as shown in the cross sections on the plan so they blend with the tail cone at the rear 50 MOUNT THE ENGINE id 1 Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood servo tray doublers to the bottom of both die cut 118 plywood forward servo trays Mount your throttle servo to one tray and your nose wheel steering servo to the other tray J 2 Cut a 8 3 4 forward servo rail from a 1 4 x 3 8 x 36 basswood stick to fit between the fuselage sides behind former F2 Test fit then glue the servo rail to the fuse sides and former F2 1 7 8 below the top edge of F2 tui 3 Cut a 8 13 16 aft servo rail to fit between the fuselage side doublers 7 8 aft of the forward servo rail Place the throttle and nose
40. he stab with a leftover piece of 1 16 balsa J ST12 Sheet the right side of the turtle deck the same way Add the partial fillet between the fin and the stab L ST13 Trim then sand the turtle deck sheeting so it is flush with former F7A and A The sheeting at the front should be even with F7A where it meets the ledge on the side stringer IMPORTANT NOTE Some modelers prefer to sand as they build instead of waiting until the very end If you prefer to do a little sanding now to even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse sides you may do so but do not over thin the 1 16 turtle deck sheeting because the ABS tail cone and ABS cabin have yet to be fitted and must match the sheeting HOOK UP THE RUDDER AND ELEVATOR Note As on the full size Beechcraft the elevators and rudder can touch but the rudder throw will be set so that this does not happen during flight J ST1 Install the pushrods in the guide tubes Temporarily connect the clevises to the rudder control horn and fit the rudder and elevator in place 0 ST2 Place a servo arm on your rudder and elevator servos With the servos centered and the rudder and elevators neutral use a felt tip pen to mark the pushrods exactly 1 1 4 from the holes in the servo arms Remove the pushrods from the fuselage Cut them at the marks you made J ST3 Silver solder a threaded coupler onto each wire pushrod Reinsert the pushrods into the fuselage and thread a ny
41. hrods into the fuselage and thread a nylon clevis onto the couplers Temporarily connect the pushrods to the servos and ruddervators Adjust the length of the pushrods if necessary by turning the clevises in or out FIT THE TAIL CONE JV1 Glue the die cut 1 8 balsa tail cone former FIITC on the end of the fuselage Remove material as needed to clear the torque rods and pushrods 44 J V2 Glue the die cut 1 3 plywood tail cone mounts to the tail cone former Cut U shaped notches in the top of the tail cone to clear the torque rods Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four 2 x 3 8 screws Make sure the screws do not interfere with the ruddervator torque rods LJ V3 After you have fitted the tail cone skip to Sheet the bottom of the fuserage on page 50 Beech Fact The F33A it turns out is one of the most confusing Bonanzas This is because there were two versions built The F33 produced in 1970 was the short cabin and the produced in 1971 was the long cabin and is the subject of our Top Flite Gold Edition straight tail The additional 19 inches of the cabin on the 33A matched the baggage space formerly available only on the V tail With this additional new found cabin space other options such as six place seating and a larger cargo door were available Price of the 33A was 41 600 back then a Hires MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN ST1
42. ide of the turtle deck and one sheet on the top of each side of the turtle deck Examine the four 1 16 x 3 x 2 4 balsa sheets and set the two softest sheets aside to be used for the top J J STS Cut one of the bottom turtle deck sheets to a length of 21 1 2 Position the sheet on the left side of the turtle deck so the top edge contacts the bottom of the stab and is parallel to the third stringer from the bottom as shown in the photo J IJ ST6 Use a ballpoint pen to mark the bottom of the stab onto the sheet Remove the sheet and cut along the line you marked J I ST7 Reposition the sheet Mark and cut it along the line Do this until the sheet accurately matches the bottom of the stab CJ CI ST8 Fill in the small wedge between the turtle deck side sheet and the fuse side with a leftover piece of 1 16 balsa See the following photo LJ J ST9 Trim the top of the sheet so it ends in the center of the third stringer Trim the bottom of the sheet so it matches the top of the fuse side Glue the sheet in position J LJ ST10 Trim another 1 16 x 3 x 24 balsa sheet to fit between the bottom turtle deck sheet and the top center stringer Trim the aft end of the sheet so it fits the fin and ends at former FIOA Glue the sheet in position Make a wedge from a 1 16 leftover piece of balsa to fit between the two turtle deck sheets in the front 48 LJ STI 1 Fill most of the space between the fin and t
43. le a Ld 1 See the Hot Tip that follows to accurately mark the balance point on the top of the wing on both sides of the fuselage The balance point is shown on the plan CG and is located 66 6 3 8 162 mm back from the leading edge at the wing root as shown in the sketch and on the plans This is the balance point at which your model should be balanced for your first flights Later you may experiment by shifting the balance up to 1 2 forward or 1 4 back to change the flying characteristics If you move the balance point forward it may improve the smoothness and tracking but your Bonanza may then require more speed for takeoff and become more difficult to slow down for landing If you move the balance aft it may make the Bonanza more agile with a lighter feel and allow you to slow the model more for landing In any case please start at the location we recommend and do not at any time balance your model outside the recommended range D morre How to mark the balance point The balance point is measured from the center leading edge Since the center section of the wing is not visible when the wing is on the fuse you need to mark the balance point outward a few inches so you can see where to lift the wing when it s bolted to the fuse To do this mark the balance point with a felt tip pen or tape on both ends of the center section Place a straightedge across the marks Mark the balance point along the straigh
44. lon clevis onto the couplers Temporarily connect the pushrods to the servos and rudder and elevator Adjust the length of the pushrods if necessary by turning the clevises in or out BUILD THE DORSAL FIN O ST1 Use the pattern on the plan to make the dorsal fin base from leftover 1 16 balsa Glue the dorsal fin base to the top of the turtle deck Make sure the front of the base is centered on the fuse centerline Dorsal fin LE 1 ST2 Cut the 15 tapered balsa dorsal tin LE to the shape shown on the plan Glue the dorsal fin LE to the fin LE and the dorsal fin brace LJ ST3 Make two dorsal fin sheets from leftover 1 16 balsa sheeting and pattern on the plan Test fit and glue one of the sheets to the turtle deck and dorsal fin base Wet the sheet and glue it to the dorsal fin LE Make sure you do not pull the dorsal fin LE off to one side when you glue the sheet to it Glue the other dorsal fin sheet in position 49 I ST4 Glue the 1 16 die cut plywood fin filler to the dorsal fin and fin 4 ST5 Apply Hobbylite filler to the dorsal fin and fin filler to blend them to the fin Apply filler to the front of the dorsal fin to complete the taper and blend it to the turtle deck Do not apply all the filler in one application but build up thin layers allowing each layer to fully dry before you apply the next J ST6 Sand the fillet blending the dorsal fin fin filler and fin into one smooth contour
45. ly during the next few steps The stab saddle and the aft formers align the stab and set the incidence which will greatly affect the way your model flies Refer to this photo for the following three steps Ww V1 Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood aft upper former F11AV to the aft bottom former F11 Make sure F11AV accurately aligns with F11 J V2 Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood V tail stab saddles to the top of the main side stringers and F11AV The angle of the aft edge of the stab saddle sets the angle of F11AV which is 90 J V3 Glue the die cut 1 8 plywood former FIOAV to the top of F10 and the front edge of the stab saddles F1OAV may be slightly aft of F10 J V4 Test fit the stab halves on the fuse by sliding them onto the joiner portion of former FIOAV Bevel the ends of the stabs as necessary so they fit all the way onto former F1OAV Bevel the top inner edge of the stab saddles to match the angle of the stabs but do not change the incidence angle The ends of former F11AV should contact the inboard ends of the stab lJ V5 Remove the stab halves Temporarily position the die cut 1 16 plywood V tail LE doubler on the front of former FIOAV and test fit the stab again Make adjustments if necessary so the stab aligns the same as it did in the previous step Use 64 rubber bands to temporarily hold the stabs to F11AV J V6 Insert a T pin in the center of the top of the firewall V7 Tie a loop on one end o
46. nd F2 Glue the stringers in place J 3 Sand the stringers even with the formers Sand the fronts of the triangle corner stringers so they blend to the ply side doublers and the bottom sheeting support STEP 44 One at a time remove the T pins in the main side stringers aft of former F6 Replace them at an angle from the outside so they will not interfere with the side sheeting Beech Fact Walter H Beech died of a heart attack late in 1950 at the age of 53 During this time the military was evaluating the YT 34 prototypes for use as a trainer SHEET THE FUSELAGE SIDES LJ LJ 1 Glue two 3 32 x 3 x 48 balsa sheets together to make a 6 x 48 fuse side sheet After the glue is dry sand the sheets so they are flat even and smooth 3 32 SIDE SHEET MAIN FUSE STRINGER 12 True one edge of the fuse side sheet Hold the side sheet on the right fuse side and mark the wing saddle and corner stringer on the sheet Trim the sheet about 3 16 outside of the lines Note The side sheet will not reach all the way back to the end of the fuselage We will instruct you to add a piece of leftover 3 32 balsa to the rear later aLJ3 Reposition the side sheet on the fuse Mark and trim the front bottom of the side sheet 1 87 above the bottom of the balsa front fuse doubler wlll 4 Test fit the side sheet and make any further adjustments necessary for a good fit be J 5 Apply a bead of medium
47. ne on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching the covering around curves like wingtips one on medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and stab and a Trim Iron for small areas 5 When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as the wing bond the covering in the middle and work outward pushing out air as you proceed Do not move the iron in a circular motion but move it span wise with the grain of the wood 6 When you cover smaller parts with square edges such as the elevators and ailerons cover the ends with separate pieces first Then all you have to do is wrap the covering around the top and bottom and iron it down 7 When you cover sharp junctions like where the stab meets the fuse cut narrow strips of covering 3 8 to 1 2 and apply them in the corners before you cover the major surfaces The larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller pieces This technique also eliminates the need to cut the covering after it has been applied Recommended Covering Sequence Fuselage Tail junction strips as described above Stab bottoms then tops Fin if straight tail right then left side Fuse bottom aft then front Fuse sides Turtle deck may be done in one or two pieces Front deck aft of cowl NOJA OUN a Wing 1 Hidden areas and corners such the TE in the flap and aileron area 2 Bottom of center section 3 Bottom of one then the other oute
48. ns mention the V tail which uses two torque rods instead of a single joiner wire as used on the straight tail If you re building the straight tail follow these instructions except where the torque rods are mentioned CUT THE COVERING AWAY FROMTHE SLOT LJ 1 Start with the stab and elevators Remove a small strip of covering from the hinge slots For the V tail remove a small strip of covering where the plastic bearing tubes contact the TE ASSEMBLE THEN APPLY 6 DROPS OF THIN CA TO CENTER OF HINGE ON BOTH SIDES THE CA WICKS ALONG THE TUNNELS TO THE ENTIRE HINGE SURFACE Q2 Drill a 3 32 hole 1 2 deep in the center of the hinge slots on the stab and elevators A high speed Dremel Tool vith a cutting burr works best for this but you can use a drill or a sharpened brass tube instead J 3 If you are building the V tail use coarse sandpaper to roughen the part of the torque rods that will be inserted into the ruddervators and the plastic bearing tubes If you are building the straight tail roughen the joiner wire Use a toothpick to dab a small amount of petroleum jelly on the ends of the V tail plastic bearing tubes to keep epoxy out O 4 Fit the hinges in only the stab or elevators without glue Fill the torque rod holes in the elevators with 30 minute epoxy Install the torque rods in the elevators Wipe away excess epoxy with a cloth dampened with alcohol TEMPORARY PIN TO KEEP HINGE CENTERE
49. ntil it matches the top of the stab Make sure you trim both sides evenly so the fin sits vertical Trim the fin sheeting in front of former F104 so it is even with fin rib R1 as shown in the photo R1 of the fin should rest on former F10 and the rear of the stab m ST2 With the fin on the stab place the basswood fin post on the front of F10A and slide it up into the fin until it hits the LE Hold the fin post in position and remove the fin Mark the location of the fin post Apply 30 minute epoxy to the fin post and FIOA Clamp the fin post to FIOA aligned with the marks you made Be certain the fin post is vertical and is centered on former FIOA The fin post aligns the front of the fin with the fuselage AFA J ST3 After the epoxy cures position the fin on the fin post and confirm that the fin remains vertical Make adjustments if necessary Use the pin and string technique or a ruler to measure the distance between the tip of the fin and the stab tips J ST4 Glue the top of the fin post to the inside of the fin with 30 minute epoxy and milled fiberglass or microballoons so all the epoxy won t run down to the bottom of the fin Glue the base of the fin and fin sheeting to the stab with 30 minute epoxy Make sure the TE of the fin is centered over former F11 Apply a small fillet of epoxy between the stab and the fin sheeting Use masking tape to hold the fin until the epoxy is fully cured itor and temporarily hook
50. o not touch the engine during or immediately after you operate it Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire To stop the engine close the carburetor barrel rotor or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel flow Do not use your or any body ekes hands fingers or any body part to stop the engine Never throw anything into the prop of a running engine FLYING The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is a great flying sport scale airplane that flies smoothly and predictably yet is highly maneuverable Compared to other scale models its flight characteristics are docile and forgiving The Bonanza also has excellent slow speed flight characteristics It does not however have the self recovery characteristics of a primary R C trainer therefore you must either have mastered the basics of R C flying or obtained the assistance of a competent R C pilot to help you until you are able to safely and competently pilot the model by yourself FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than an un cowled engine For this reason the fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed By running the engine slightly rich you will help prevent dead stick landings caused by overheating TAKEOFF If you have dual rates on your transmitter set the switches to high rate for takeoff especially when taking off in a cros
51. or a razor saw to cut the firewall to accommodate the strut Retract the nose gear and make sure it does not interfere with the firewall Note Adjust the centering spring on your retracts so the nose wheel is neutral and make sure the nose wheel is centered on the strut On the Robart 631 strut we inserted two 8 washers between the wheel and the strut to center the wheel The nose wheel must be neutral and centered to fit between the rails when retracted Hint File or sand a slight bevel to the bottom edges of the rails to guide the nose wheel in case LJ R8 If you have your air pump and some quick disconnects handy temporarily connect them to your nose gear air cylinder and actuate the nose gear with the air pump This will give you a good indication of any problem areas that you can correct now J R9 Cut 3 16 off the aft edge of the die cut 1 8 plywood nose steering servo tray Mount your nose steering servo to the servo tray so the output shaft is on the left side of the servo tray as shown on the plan See the photo at step R11 Note that the servo is offset toward the aft edge of the servo g R10 If you would like to mount your air control valve in the same location as in our prototype drill a 1 2 hole in the die cut 118 plywood right nose steering servo tray mount at the punch mark 54 L R11 Test fit the servo tray with the servo in the die cut 1 8 plywood servo tray mounts and fit the assembly in
52. ounting plate to the fuse side doubler LJ 3 Install your receiver the same way Route your receiver antenna through the antenna tube Note If in the future you have to remove then reinstall your receiver or battery pack first hook the rubber bands to the tabs on the mounting plate Next stretch the rubber bands and slide your battery pack and receiver underneath L 4 Cut the two 1 8 x 1 dowels to a length of 3 4 Glue the dowels into the holes you drilled in the bottom of former F6 Cut the aft edges of the servo trays so they are even with the servo rails Temporarily strap the air tank in place using two rubber bands Air control valve Right servo tray mount 5 Mount your air control valve and servo On our prototype we mounted the air control valve to the right nose steering servo tray Mount yours the same way or find an alternate location Mount the servo to two rails made from leftover 1 4 x 3 8 basswood Note It will be easier to connect your air lines to the air control valve before you mount the air control valve in the airplane 6 Mount your on off switch and charge jack in a location where it will not get covered with engine exhaust residue 7 Connect your battery pack receiver switch and servos Connect the air lines to your air tank with a T fitting connected to your air fill valve If you are installing the Cabin Interior route the air lines and servo cords through notches in the fo
53. proximately 1 7 8 aft of former F5 where shown on the plan It will be helpful if you cut the rail to a length that will provide a friction fit between the fuse side doublers so it will temporarily stay in position without using glue Position the aft servo tray rail between the fuse sides J 4 Position your servos into the servo trays and place the trays on the rail and former F5 Temporarily thread two nylon clevises just a few turns onto two 36 one end threaded pushrods Install the pushrods into the pushrod guide tubes and connect the clevises to servo arms on your servos 38 J 5 Position the rail and the servo trays so the servo arms align with the pushrods Glue the rail and servo trays to former F5 and the fuse sides in this position Drill 1 16 holes in the servo trays and mount the servos with the screws that came with your radio FINISH FRAMING THE FUSE J 1 Refer to the photo in the following step and test fit a die cut 1 8 balsa forward fuse doubler on the right side of the fuse The front edge of the forward fuse doubler should align with the front edge of the fuse side doubler Wet the outer surface of the doubler and glue it in place Be sure that former F2 remains square and flat 2 Glue the other forward fuse doubler to the left side of the fuselage Use 3 16 x 3 16 balsa sticks leftover from the aft bottom stringers to make the forward bottom stringers that fit in the notches of the firewall a
54. r panel includingthe wing tips 4 Top of the center section 5 Top of one then the other outer panel including the wing tips Control Surfaces 1 Ends bottoms then tops of elevators flaps and ailerons 2 End and bottom of tip then one side then the other side of the rudder if straight tail 3 Flap and aileron servo hatch covers 64 PAINTING At this stage all your plastic pieces should have the seams filled with Bondo or putty Spray all the molded plastic parts and scale accessories with at least one coat of primer We used Top Flite LustreKote on just about everything that needed to be painted Wet sand between coats with 400 grit sandpaper Use Great Planes 1 8 EZ Mask Flexible Masking Tape GPMRI000 for masking fine lines Kyosho Masking Cover Sheet KYOR1040 for quickly masking large areas a Top Flite Tack Cloth TOPR2185 to remove dust just before paining and LustreKote paint for a MonoKote matching finish For painting the pilots we recommend acrylic water base paints such as the types found in craft stores This type of paint looks great on a pilot because it is not glossy and best of all it cleans up with water We recommend gluing the clear plastic wing tip lenses to your wing before you cover or paint them We used strips of Top Flite MonoKote Trim Sheets to cover the clear wing tip lenses Part of the wing tips are to remain clear JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES HINGING These instructio
55. reets and other RIC activities A schoolyard is usually not an acceptable area because of people power lines and possible radio interference GROUND CHECK YOUR MODEL If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R C models ask an experienced modeler to inspect your radio installation and control surface set up Follow the engine manufacturer s instructions to break in your engine After you run the engine on your model inspect your model closely to make sure all screws remain tight and your pushrods and connectors are secure RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO Ground check the range of your radio before the first flight of the day With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control Have an assistant stand by your model and while you work the controls tell you what the control surfaces are doing Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model using hand signals to show you what is happening If the control surfaces do not respond correctly do not fly Find and correct the problem first Look for loose servo connections or broken wires corroded wires on old servo connectors poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell in your battery pack or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NOTE Failure to follow these safet
56. rmers A a Recheck the C G Q 9 If you haven t already centered your servos take the servo arms off all the servos and turn on your transmitter and receiver this is most important for the flaps Center the trims and put the servo arms back on your servos and secure them with the screw 10 While you re at it double check all the servos and make the servo arms are secured and make sure all the clevises have a silicone retainers 4 11 Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction as illustrated in the following sketches 4 CHANNEL RADIO SETUP STANDARD MODE 2 V TAIL SETUP Jl LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP gt RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES DOWN NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN 4 CHANNEL RADIO SETUP STANDARD MODE 2 4 ELEVATOR MOVES UP RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES itiwy gt RUDDER MOVES RIGHT NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN 68 12 Adjust your pushrod hookups and set up your radio to provide the control surface movements as follows V TAIL CONTROL SURFACE THROWS These control surface throws are for the V tail model only We recommend the following control surface throws NOTE Throws are measured at the widest part of the control surface High Rate Low Rate ELEVATOR 15 16 up 518 up 15 16 down 5 8 down
57. rutch and crutch formers F7B and F2B with CA accelerator Place the crutch on the fuse with the cardboard shims Slip a piece of wax paper between the shim and crutch formers at the back and front of the crutch Fasten the crutch to the fuse sides with four 4 40 x 3 4 cap screws and washers accessible from inside the bottom of the fuse we use a long Great Planes 3 32 Hexdriver Ball Wrench GPMR8002 Position the cabin top on the crutch Tape the cabin top to the fuse sides 5 Make sure you have a CA applicator on your medium CA bottle A little section at a time simultaneously press the side of the cabin top down and to the side and glue the cabin top to the crutch with a small fillet of medium CA Do only a small section at a time making sure the crutch is pressed down to the fuse main side stringer as you glue You should be able to reach all areas of the crutch through the window cutouts Since you pre primed the crutch with CA accelerator you should have to hold the parts together for only a few seconds Glue both sides of the cabin top to the crutch Note Do not build up a large fillet of CA between the top of the crutch and the cabin sides Be careful not to glue the cabin sides or the crutch to the fuse main side stringer This should not be a problem if you do not use too much CA 4 6 Glue the cabin top to the front and aft cabin formers Hint It will be easier to glue the cabin formers to the cabin top if yo
58. selage Place the die cut 1 8 plywood belly pan former F2W on the front of the wing so it is resting against fuse former F2 Trim the bottom of F2W so it sits 3 32 below the bottom fuselage sheeting to accommodate the belly pan sheeting Carefully glue F2W to only the wing 3 2 From a 3 16 x 3 16 x 30 balsa stick cut one 6 1 2 piece two 4 3 4 pieces and two 2 1 4 pieces to make the belly pan stringers Sand one end of the stringers so they conform to the shape of the bottom of the wing Glue them in position Hint Place a piece of sandpaper on the bottom of the wing and move the stringers back and forth sanding them to the correct shape J 3 Sheet the belly pan with leftover 3 32 balsa sheeting Featherthe edges with lightweight hobby filler After the filler dries remove the wing and sand the belly pan to blend with the fuse 60 J 4 With the wing off the fuse sand one of the 1 x 1 3 4 x 2 wing fairing blocks to match the curvature of the right side of the fuse at the leading edge of the wing Bolt the wing to the fuse Sand the side and rear of the wing fairing block so it fits between the wing and the fuse as shown in the photo Glue the wing fairing block to the wing only 5 Remove the wing and sand the wing fairing block to match the shape of the top of the wing The fairing block extends below the bottom sheeting so blend it to the belly pan and the bottom of the wing with filler
59. span 8 5 10 5 Lbs TWO VIEW DRAWING ing your trim scheme Use this layout for plann
60. swind Although this model has good low speed characteristics you should always build up as much speed as your runway will permit before lifting off This will give you a safety margin in case of a flame out Use as much of the available runway as possible and practical When the plane has sufficient flying speed lift off by smoothly applying up elevator don t jerk it off into a steep climb and climb out gradually Do not use 70 flaps for your initial takeoff After you have the feel of the Bonanza takeoffs may be made with the flaps set at 50 Never use 100 flaps for takeoff ecause of the high drag 1 20 4 STROKE NOTE If you have installed a 1 20 4 stroke engine you must manage the throttle on takeoff and throughout the flight Use slightly more than half throttle for your first few takeoffs and be ready to apply right rudder to counteract torque as you increase power Add power gradually until you become familiar with the Bonanza s flight characteristics FLIGHT We recommend that you take it easy with your Bonanza for the first several flights gradually getting acquainted with this realistic model as your engine gets fully broken in Add and practice one maneuver at a time learning how she behaves in each For ultra smooth flying and normal maneuvers we recommend using the low rate settings as listed on page 68 amp 69 High rate elevator may be required for crisp snap rolls and spins With a 1 20 engin
61. tedge further out on the wing Mount the wing to the fuselage 0 2 Temporarily place your receiver and battery pack inside the fuselage where you plan to mount them or lay them on the fuselage over the location you plan to mount them This is so you can change the mounting location of the battery pack or receiver to change the C G without adding any additional nose or tail weight You can do the same with lighting system components as well if you are installing the lighting package Otherwise all other components should be in the model and it should be in a ready to fly condition with the fuel tank empty 13 With the wing attached to the fuselage lift the model at the balance point We use the Great Planes C G Machine shown in the sketch for this If the tail drops the model is tail heavy and you must shift your battery pack or other components forward or add weight to the nose If the nose drops it is nose heavy and you must shift your battery pack or other components aft or add weight to the tail In order to save weight relocate your battery pack and or receiver or other components before you add additional weight to arrive at the correct C G You may easily install nose weight by using a spinner weight or gluing lead weights to the firewall You may add tail weight by sticking on Great Planes GPMQ4485 stick on lead weights on the bottom of the fuselage under the tail Later if the balance proves to be OK you can op
62. the wing and sand the high spots so the wing matches the fuse as accurately as possible Do not sand the ply fuse side doublers O 4 Remember the pin and string method you used to align the stab Get your string out and stick a T pin in the center of the bottom middle stringer just ahead of the tail cone AL 5 Use the arrow on the tape to align the wing with the fuse the same way you did the stab 0 6 Once you have the wing aligned place weights over the center section to keep it from shifting during the next few steps Keep your string handy so you can recheck alignment as you proceed J LJ 7 Drill through only one wing bolt plate the top sheeting and the wing bolt block on one side of the wing with a 7 drill Keep the drill bit perpendicular to the wing bolt plate as you drill so the head of the wing bolt will rest flat J I 8 Remove the wing and tap threads into the wing bolt block with a 1 4 20 tap Enlarge the hole in the wing bolt plate and the top sheeting with a round file or a 17 64 drill Replace the wing on the fuselage and bolt it down with the one 1 4 nylon wing bolt J 9 Replace the 7 drill bit in your drill Repeat steps 5 6 7 and 8 1 10 Bolt the wing to your fuselage and leave the wing bolts barely snug Realign the wing J 11 Drill 1 4 holes through the 1 8 x 1 x 2 plywood wing dowel plates Slightly enlarge the holes with a round file or a piece of sandpaper wrapped around som
63. the ball Crimp the swages Temporarily hook up the steering servo to your radio system and test the movement Adjust the tension on the cables or make other adjustments if needed Note If your nose gear steering arms did not come bent 90 as shown do so now FINISH CONSTRUCTION HOOK UP THE THROTTLE 4 1 Mount your engine mount and engine to the firewall Mount your muffler to make sure your throttle pushrod will not interfere This is the throttle servo location for fixed gear This is the throttle servo location for retractable gear J 2 Place your throttle servo tray with the servo in the rails Connect the 074 x 12 throttle pushrod to your servo with a small brass Screw Lock connector Connect the other end of the throttle pushrod to the engine with a nylon ball socket and a 0 80 threaded ball and 0 80 nut Use a drop of thread lock on the nut Glue the throttle servo tray to the rails 55 MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSE Remember the wing Go get it so you can mount it to the fuse LJ 1 Bevel the end of both 1 2 x 1 x 2 1 4 maple wing bolt blocks so they match the angle of the die cut 1 8 plywood wing bolt block holder QO 2 Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt blocks and holders in the fuse where shown on the plan See the photo at step 8 3 Place the wing in the wing saddle on the fuse Observe high spots in the saddle of the balsa fuse sides that prevent the wing from fitting Remove
64. this model A 90 unit would work but the mounting position would have to be raised and the rails would have to be slanted upward toward the front of the model in order to achieve the scale appearance of the full size Beechcraft These modifications are up to you J RI If you re using the Robart 631 nose gear retract mark a line 7 7 8 from one end of both 1 4 x 9 16 x 9 plywood landing gear rails This will position the pivot point of the 631 nose gear 7 7 8 from the aft edge of F2 53 1 8 SPACER 1 4 SPACER NOSE GEAR RAIL MARK O R2 Glue one 114 x 9 16 x 2 1 4 plywood rail spacer and one 1 8 x 9 16 x 2 1 4 plywood rail spacer on the end of both rails that you made the mark on but on the other side of the rail I R3 Temporarily place the landing gear rails LI R4 Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the rails to the firewall and former F2 and the die cut 1 8 plywood landing gear braces to the rails and the firewall D R5 Use small clamps to hold the nose gear to the rails so the pivot point on the Robart 631 s aligns with the marks you made on the top of the rails Mark the locations of the mounting holes on the landing gear rails LY R6 Remove the landing gear and drill 5 32 holes at the marks you made Temporarily mount your landing gear with 6 32 x 3 4 screws and blind nuts not included L R7 Remove the two 3 16 stringers that interfere with the wheel and strut Use a Dremel Tool
65. tringers from seven 3 16 x 3 16 x 36 balsa sticks to fit in the notches of the formers as shown on the plan and in the photo Save the leftover pieces The three bottom stringers extend to the sheeting support You can see the stringers in the photo at step 5 page 38 11 Glue the fronts of the three bottom stringers to the sheeting support then use your 90 degree triangle to hold each former at the correct angle and glue the bottom stringers to the formers J 12 Glue the 3 16 x 3 16 side stringers and pushrod guide tubes to the formers J 13 Cut the bottom corner stringers to fit on the formers where shown on the plan from two 1 2 x 36 balsa triangle sticks Glue the corner stringers in place MOUNT THE SERVOS LJ 1 Optional For routing your receiver antenna out the back of the fuselage cut a third 3 16 outer pushrod guide tube not included to a length of 21 Roughen the outside of the tube with coarse sandpaper so glue will stick and slide the tube through the holes in the bottom of the formers until the front extends past former F7 by approximately 1 2 Glue the tube to the formers this tube is visible in the photo at step 5 J 2 Test fit your servos in the aft servo trays or ruddervator elevatorservo trays to make sure they fit Glue a servo tray doubler to the bottom of the front of both trays J 3 Cut an aft servo tray rail from a 1 4 x 3 8 x 36 basswood stick to fit between the fuse sides ap
66. u perform this step If you re not going to install the full Cabin Interior glue the die cut 1 8 plywood instrument panel to the crutch where shown on the plan Use the glareshield template on the plan to make the glareshield from thin cardboard such as a manila folder Lightly spray the glareshield with CA accelerator Glue it to the instrument panel and the cabin top Add whatever other details you 63 would like to the cockpit and mount your pilots to a piece of leftover 1 8 plywood glued between the fuselage sides SCALE DETAILS Antennas This is the fun part if you re not staying up late rushing to get your model finished for competition There are many scale details you can add to your Bonanza that will really bring it to life We added the antennas and the air scoop as shown on the plans The air scoop is the only one of these that is included with your kit and is molded in two halves Build the air scoop the same as the cowl and tail cone The antenna bases were carved from wood then primed and painted white Use maple basswood or a similar dense grain hardwood Drill a 1 16 hole for antennas made from 1 16 brass tubes When your scale details are finished mount them to your model with double sided tape or 1 16 double sided foam tape or rubber cement We recommend that you do not permanently mount the antennas to your model so you can replace or repair them in case of hanger rash Cowl The ouvers are
67. u carefully place the fuselage on its nose and on its tail cone LJ 7 Remove the cabin top and add medium CA to areas you couldn t reach before Fasten the cabin top to the fuse and lightly sand the fuse to match the cabin top J 8 Cut the front cabin former and the crutch to accommodate the fuel tank 59 FIT THE WINDOWS Note The windows are individually cut and glued to the inside of the cabin top J 1 Cut each of the molded clear plastic windows along the cutlines which are approximately 1 8 outside of the raised edges Sand the edges smooth and even with 220 grit sandpaper Use care not to scratch the windows J 2 Fit the bottom of one of the windows in the bottom of the matching window opening in the cabin top Observe how much the top front and aft edges of the window openings must be trimmed so the window will fit the rest of the way in Remove the window and use a rotary tool with a sanding drum or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to enlarge only the top front and aft edges of the window opening until the window accurately fits Do not trim the bottom edge of the window cutouts so the windows remain in line I 3 Fitthe rest of the windows the same way Beech Fact Walter H Beech and Olive Ann Mellor first met at the Kansas based Travel Air Co in the late 1920 s Thete Walter served as president and Olive was the office manager They married in 1930 In 1932 with two other business associat
68. uld use Squadron putty for smaller parts like the tail cone Here are some tips for applying the Bondo to your cowl 1 Thoroughly roughen all seams and other areas with 150 grit sandpaper where you will apply Bondo 2 Mix the Bondo thoroughly but rapidly to allow as much time as possible to apply it 3 Bondo cures within a few minutes so mix only enough to fill one seam at a time 4 Use an expired credit card or a piece of plastic as a spatula to apply Bondo Bend your spatula to build up a slight moundover the seam 5 Apply only enough Bondo to fill the seams and uneven edges It s easier to apply a second coat than it is to sand gobs of it off 6 Wet sanding is best Start with 150 grit sandpaper Transition to finer grits as you proceed and finish with 400 grit sandpaper When you re done your cowl should look something like the one in the photo just enough Bondo left to fill in the low spots near the seams Note Refer to the cowl flaps on the side view of the fuse plan If you are installing retracts the cutout in the bottom of the cowl for the nose wheel will be large enough to allow an adequate air exit for cooling the engine In this case the cowl flaps are optional If you are installing fixed gear you will have to build either the aft or forward cowl flaps to allow adequate air exit The aft cowl flaps are cut in the bottom of the fuse and are in the scale location If you add the aft cowl flaps
69. y precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others Store model fuel in a safe place away from high heat sparks or flames Do not smoke near the engine or fuel as it is very flammable Engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide so do not run the engine in a closed room or garage Get help from an experienced pilot when you learn to operate engines Use safety glasses when you operate model engines Do not run the engine near loose gravel or sand the propeller may throw loose material in your face or eyes When you start and run the engine keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller Always be aware and very conscious of hand movements and be deliberate in your reach for the needle valve glow plug clip or other items near a spinning propeller Keep loose clothing shirt sleeves ties scarfs long hair or loose objects away from the prop Be conscious of pencils screw drivers or other objects that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets Use a chicken stick or electric starter and follow the instructions to start your engine Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or get into the running propeller Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear while you start the engine and operate the controls Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller The engine gets hot D
70. you will have to cut holes in the firewall to allow the air to exit through the aft cowl flaps The forward cowl flaps are cut in the cowl and are not in the scale location but are easier to build You ve come a long way This is the end of the construction portion of the model so there s no more woodwork It s all just details and other last minute stuff before your Bonanza will be ready to paint and cover FINISHING FUELPROOFING You may fuelproof your model before or after you cover it Fuelproof all areas that may be exposed to fuel or engine exhaust such as the wheel wells wing bolt recesses in the wing the firewall fuel tank compartment the front of the belly pan and former F2 in the fuse etc Use thinned 30 minute epoxy finishing resin or fuelproof model paint Note Fuelproof the wheel wells and flap wells before you cover the wing Otherwise the paint may soak through the balsa and add blemishes to your covering CABIN DETAILS Wd 1 If you have decided to install the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Interior Kit you may do so at any time but some fitting and maneuvering is required so we recommend you install it before you cover and paint your model It is not necessary to permanently install the interior kit at this time but you should at least fit it and prepare it for painting Refer to the installation instructions included with the Scale Interior Kit Ld 2 Make sure your windows are fitted before yo
71. your first landings plan to land slightly faster than stall speed and flare a few inches off the runway onto the main wheels FLAPS Full flaps make the Bonanza very steady in the landing pattern Just carry a little extra power to make up for the increased drag This drag allows you to make shorter steeper approaches Touch down with a slightly nose high attitude to avoid letting the nose gear contact the runway first You can execute touch and go s and slow flyby s with full flaps but be ready to use a little more up elevator You should use only half flaps for taking off and climbing because the plane will accelerate and climb much better than it would with full flaps If you have to attempt a go around your first priority should be to smoothly apply power and establish a steady climb After you reach a safe altitude reduce flaps and then make your turn to get back into the landing pattern Have a ball But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING THIS MODEL BELONGS TO NAME ADDRESS STATE PHONE AMA SFA Cut this placard out fill it out and place it inside your model If you enjoyed building the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza try one of these other outstanding 60 size Gold Edition kits as your next project Cessna 182 Skylane TOPA0300 81 Wingspan 10 12 Lbs F4U Corsair TOPA0100 62 Wingspan 7 9 5 Lbs P 47D Thunderbolt TOPA0135 63 Wing

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