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Appliqué Art - Amazon Web Services

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1. HERE Y FPE DTE Port of Position the fabric wrong side down to stitch on the chalk marked line Stitch along the entire length of the fabric Gentle puckers will appear WA Continue to chainstitch smock in parallel lines alternating to the right and left of center smocking rows approximately 2 apart Hint use the width of the serger presser foot as a spacer between rows and avoid marking additional guidelines Continue to fill in the entire 8 width of fabric Remove the chainstitch smocked fabric from the serger Gently pull of the fabric on the right and left sides to straighten the gathers Lightly steam the smocking to set the puffing in the rows Trim the smocked center panel to 6 7 x 14 Set the serger to basic 4 thread overlock seaming with all purpose serger thread in all 4 positions all tensions balanced appx 4 5 SL 2 differential feed returned to Normal Install the serger Multi Purpose Foot on the serger Center one piece of filler cord on the wrong side of one piping bias strip SPECIAL CLASSROO EWI T Fold over the bias strip encasing the filler cord Place the folded cord filled strip underneath the Multi Purpose Foot so that the ridge of the filler cord is positioned underneath the tunnel located on the bottom of the foot Serge the bias strip together positioning the needles so that they stitch just outside the filler cord trimming excess fabric Repeat
2. Pivot with the needle on the outer edges of the appliqu shapes DIMENSIONAL APPLIQU Freestanding appliqu shapes that are tacked to the surface of the fabric giving a 3 D effect to the design Settings amp Supplies STITCH Zigzag Stitch STITCH LENGTH Varies STITCH WIDTH Varies NEEDLE POSITION As needed PRESSER FOOT Embroidery Foot 6 Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C Clear Appliqu Foot 23 Clear Embroidery Foot 39 SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION THREAD Needle Decorative machine embroidery threads cotton or rayon Bobbin 60 2 or 50 3 cotton NEEDLE Choose the needle based on the type and size of thread selected Machine Embroidery Metallica Metafil Topstitching TENSION Generally the tension for the upper thread is reduced lower number This allows for the top thread to be pulled to the underside of the background fabric as well as not making frequent bobbin thread changes necessary Technique The best fabric for this technique is a stable mid weight fabric It should be double sided such as Ultrasuede or be two pieces fused together with right sides out Using a water soluble marker draw the various pieces of the appliqu onto the fabric The best designs for this type of appliqu have multiple parts such a flower that has separate petals instead of one large bloom Cut out each drawn shape Optional For fabrics that ravel finish each section of the appliqu with a
3. BERNINA sewing machine to an authorized BERNINA dealer for an annual check up Schedule this before the sewing season starts and during time away from home so you won t miss your machine while it s gone The trained technician will remove all the covers clean and lubricate the interior parts and check the overall condition of your machine He she will also test and adjust the machine to meet the manufac turer s specifications and perform any factory recommended updates Conscientious upkeep of your machine will keep it at peak performance for years of uninterrupted sewing pleasure BY JENNIFER GIGAS esiding within the version 4 Designer Plus level of BERNINA Embroidery Software is a wonderful range of features that lend themselves beautifully to quilting techniques Try your hand at foundation piecing appliqu and creating new blocks Digitizing freemotion quilt motifs or tiny stipple stitches that are the envy of everyone in your guild is just the beginning of what you can create with this powerful easy to use software package Work through the Mastering Your BER NINA Embroidery Software workbook to familiarze yourself with the Designer MAssienng Tour Plus software The workbook available from your BER Softwars dealer is used in conjunction with your owner s manual and be will acquaint you with the functionality of the software and provide a reference point as you
4. depending on the desired hand of the finished project Both Poly Mesh and Aqua Mesh will leave the finished project with a soft feel The best combination may be both an applied fusible interfacing and either a cut away or tear away stabilizer CREATING A FINISHED EDGE APPLIQU Trace desired shape onto Aqua Film with an indelible marker Pin Aqua Film to right side of appliqu fabric Take care to keep the Aqua Film right side up Tip Writing the letter P on the Aqua Film will make it easier to keep the pattern piece oriented correctly SPECIAL Attach Non Stick Zigzag Foot 53 to machine Thread needle and insert bobbin with sewing thread Sew on traced lines around appliqu with a straight stitch Cut slit in center of Aqua Film trim seam allowance around out side of appliqu motif to 7 4 Clip curves and points if applicable Turn right side out Place right side up on ironing surface Press with warm iron The Aqua Film will draw up and pull the stitching to the wrong side Remove excess Aqua Film from center back of appliqu leaving the sides glued down Pin appliqu in place on background fabric 31 32 THROUGH THE NEEDLE DECORATIVE STITCHING Select desired stitch and sew around appliqu shape with a decorative thread The stitch that you choose for this step should complement the stitches and yarns that you are adding to the edge of your shape It must secure the edge of your shape with suffic
5. just outside Chicago They will share 3 days of classes fun sharing shopping laughter and learning The topics cover a wide variety of needle techniques including embroidery quilting needle felting serging embellishment and garment making all taught by talented BERNINA Educators The keynote speakers for this event are two designers who are sure to amuse and inspire While the artistic endeavors of Kayla Kennington and elinor peace bailey span a variety of genres and each has different areas of sewing expertise both offer exciting avenues of creative expression As a couture artwear designer Kayla loves making runway 1 masterpieces and is a 2 time winner of the Creme dela Creme 1 award at the BERNINA Fashion Show She continues to Fun in class participate in the show but her garments are no longer judged so that the other designers have a chance to win She also designs garments for her pattern collection Modular Designs for Couture Artwear which features unique individualized clothing items that can be worn by anyone The shapes are simple modular pieces that fit together from one pattern to the next For example a sleeve from one pattern can be combined with the body of another one The designs are simple to construct using Kayla s unique seaming techniques The styles may look boxy when laid flat however when made from the recommended soft drapey fabrics such as silk rayon and velvet the g
6. mainstream of stretchy seams and rolled edges to stitch within a piece of fabric n 8 BY NANCY BEDNAR to create delicate shirring on 14 x 10 rectangular pillow form insert 4 cones Mettler Metrocor polyester serger thread an easy and elegant pillow WEE Blend beautiful silks and BERNINA serger with differential feed and chain decorator weight wovens with Sue cepelbilities 5 Model 1300DCC or the unique feed dog regulating Model 009D for smocking plus any other feature to make people wonder model for piping and overlock seaming i Multi P F just how did she do that with wid o a serger PREPARATION AND CUTT e Center panel silk one piece 8 x 42 Pillow front sides stripe two pieces 7 x 14 each for a 14 x 10 rectangular pillow Pillow back stripe one piece 17 x 14 Fabrics Bias piping strips stripe two pieces 2 x 14 each Pillow center smocked insert 8 x 42 lightweight fabrics work best sample uses silk IRECTIONS dupioni Pillow sides back piping 2 yard of 54 wide mid weight decorator fabric Smocked Center Panel Serger smocking is possible because of a feature called differential feed Generally located near the stitch length dial it regulates how fast or how slow the feed dog pulls slow fabric At the lowest setting 0 7 the feed dogs drag the fabric slightly stretch ing it before it is sewn by the ne
7. on where on the PC you store your photos and pictures Click Open Drag picture to window While handles are still around picture resize to fit in window once tes Save in the Quilter Program remember this design will save as an arq file In QI nA Am Es order to access it through artista 4 0 software you must return to the Quilter Program and then click File lt Open Print out the Quilt Block templates File gt Print Preview gt left click Blocks gt left click OK gt left click Print from top of screen Creating the Paper Page NOTE You may want to experiment with Cut printed templates apart and trace onto various colors of scrapbook paper card stock 1 p p Pa the new stiffened or similar acid free paper of your choice fabrics that are available They are acid free and fun to sew on will not ravel or wrinkle Using OEDD 404 spray adhesive lay the pieces of your house in place Be careful that the pieces lie side by side and do not overlap Of course your adhesive must be acid free to preserve your masterpiece Attach Clear Foot 34 Using decorative embroidery thread Isacord is a good choice here because it is color fast polyester and quite strong stitch the pieces in place with decorative Stitches Select a stitch that goes from side to side such as the feather stitch or running stitch TIP Remember if you are using paper choose open stitches or increase le
8. an automatic buttonhole The BY LYN LACKEY 1 sliding gauge makes it easy to duplicate buttonholes manually repeating the same size over and over As the buttonhole is stitched the raised sole glides over the fabric while a rubber treated sole grips the fabric and travels backward and forward with it bernette models 65 80e and 90e Buttonhole Foot Requires a button to be placed in a slot on the foot to regulate the size of the buttonhole Keys to Success Mark accurately placing buttonholes about s from the garment edge e Always stabilize and interface buttonholes adequately choosing a stabilizer and or interfacing that comple ments the weight of the fabric so that the buttonhole area is neither too stiff nor too limp Always make a practice buttonhole using the same fabric interfacing stabilizer threads and needle that will be used on the project to assure that they all work well together Coordinate garment style and fabric with the type of buttonhole choose buttons and embellishments that complement or enhance the look of the finished gar ment Seal the cut edges of the buttonhole with a fabric sealant Making Buttonholes Automatic Buttonholes d r Bal l Equipped with an electronic A T TEES 0L sensor Automatic Buttonhole zi Foot 3A 3C works with most computerized models of BERNINA sewing machines The machine memorizes the size of the stitched buttonho
9. and rework a complete design Special thanks to Susan Fears for providing the original framework for this article D a r p Es RO 3 1 3 a A ON BY Jit DANKLEFSEN MARLIS BENI ETT amp PAT JENNINGS DD 9 si F ndamentals pe sata US het LR pos E NIA x T D p THROUGH THE NEEDLE Appliqu d embellishments have been used by generations of stitchers all over the world to add figurative elements to garments linens quilts and much more From the intricate Baltimore Album Quilts of the southeastern United States to the colorful Molas produced by the Cuna Indians off the coast of Panama to the symmetrical design of Hawaiian Quilts appliqu has been used as a S an S d l decorative technique to add fabric toa base color texture and ornamenta or background tion to projects of all types fabric Because you are not limited to one method appliqu becomes a palette of techniques from which to choose when planning a stitching adventure apepliequ n a method of ornamentation in which shapes of one material are applied to another to create a picture or design v to appliqu is to stitch shapes of one If you ve never stitched appliqu before the follow ing pages will introduce you to a variety of techniques supplies and tools Those experienced in the art of appliqu will gain insight into new meth
10. be able to learn from your creative struggles If your attempts aren t giving you the results you want then your problem may be technical try different techniques and keep going The creative experience is not reserved for the few As long as you don t care what kind of art you make you can make art all the time So no excuses get on with it Remember making bad art is better than making no Ki art at all SPECIAL C little purse BY MARLIS BENNETT Finished size 7 2 x 10 excluding handles This petite poche or little purse is easy to make and is the perfect size for holding just the essentials Marking The Design Transfer the needlepunch design see pattern to stencil plastic with indelible marker Place the marked stencil plastic on the picture frame glass Trace the design with a hot stencil cutter Do not connect lines or the shape will drop out of the stencil Place the template on the right side of one piece of felted wool note placement on pattern and on finished purse shown in photo Pounce with chalk bag to transfer markings to wool Pyn Pillow Watermelon Kit Shown here is a kit for a wool pincushion and thimble holder The wool roving in this kit is perfect in fiber and color for punching the design on the Petite Poche THROUGH THE NEEDLE Attach Decorative Needlepunch Attachment to machine following instructions included with the
11. begin to fully explore pim Designer P lus wr Dra Foundation Piecing Teach your artista to paper piece E EH EHH e E mn Creating the Embroidery File Note Before starting this exer cise change the settings on your computer to inches if needed Go to Control Panel Regional Options Measurement System to make this change For settings to take effect the embroidery software must be closed and re opened SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Open Designer Plus V4 0 Embroidery Software then open the BERNINA Quilter program Click on the Quilt Layout icon select 1 block across and 1 block down click OK Click on the Show All icon Select Simple Blocks Simple 1 the first block in the fifth row click on the blank block to assign the pattern Print and scan the block or make a Copy screen capture of the block using the Print Screen key see your computer manu al for instructions Open a graphics pro gram Paint Paint Shop Pro PhotoShop create a New file and Paste the image Crop the block and Save As Square in a Square jpg in your My Designs folder Return to the Designer Plus window Click on the Picture Tab click on the Load Picture icon select My Designs folder gt Square in a Square Open Select graphic open the Object Properties box and change the height and width settings to 5 Note 1 4 seam allowances for the block will be added later Select the Open Curve tool single st
12. created with the Magic Wand may be edited to adjust stitch angle stitch type and color Tip Remember to process the artwork using the Artwork Preparation tools prior to using automatic digitizing tools Closed Curve Tool The Closed Curve tool is used to manually create a closed area or solid shape The area may be digitized with an outline and or fill stitches The closed curve tool is best used for the more complicated areas of a graphic or areas that that you wish to alter from the original graphic Open Curve Tool The Open Curve Tool is used to manually create an open outline shape using any of the outline stitch types The open curve tool is best used for the more complicated areas of a graphic or areas that that you wish to alter from the original graphic When using automatic digitizing tools don t forget to activate Automatic Underlay and set the Pull Compensation to 0 4 Digitizing the Design Following the map made during the planning process create each area of the design Remember to save your work often after every major change You may wish to Save As rather than simply Save By using Save As the previous file is still available if you wish to go back and begin working again from an earlier point Take advantage of the Slow Redraw feature to preview the sewing sequence of the design Use Slow Redraw throughout the digitizing process to check your work It is easier to make changes as you work than to go back
13. ditch or over a piece of whole cloth Use as is or cut into strips to be sewn back together FABRIC CORD THREAD The choices of these three elements affect the look of the finished technique Match the thread color to the fabric to give the illusion of the cord being woven into the fabric Match the thread color to the cord to give the cord a more pronounced look Match the colors of the fabric cord and thread to create texture on the surface of the fabric Invisible thread makes the cord appear to float on the fabric surface br va wa kc iu Ba wat as 38 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Simple L Scrapbookers love paper and collect lots of it 2 Sewers love fabrics and threads and usually have a large stash 3 Crafters love to cut snip glue and sew all to combine and create What happens when all three of these creative types of people the scrap booker the crafter and the sewer are combined in one person Well the results can be truly amazing especially when you add today s easy to use sewing machines with their many and varied decorative stitches beaut iful embroidery editing and design soft ware variable alphabets and digitizing and appliqu tools You can create almost anything if you can think it you can create it If you re one of these creative people vent ure into the world of Sew S crapping scrapbooking by machine and see what happens To create truly memorab
14. me S ri zu 1 y reach 3 e ts yim 1 s r 1 aT awit Dd The new activa ins i a r E j A ga i nie 220 250 PE amp 240 EA Ji p ast fe Starting at 699 e Shae oc 18 UY Your dreams of awning a Bernina AI a Sar Pra can now come true Oh the zs precision the projects It s ali z 3 attainable with these new activa 5 pi 4 machines They offer features M like the legendary CB Hook and js FAS l one piece all metal presser TRES A AN feet for gorgeous stitches a P te 0 x pewertul DC matar for superior TMR penetration and Temporary LAT Altered Stitch Memory so 1 you can focus on sewing nal Sk adjusting your machine E That s true Bernina quality at a price that s less of a stretch m Nothing Sews Like A Bernina Nothing uS BERNINA m a lj h Noone supports the creative sewer like a Bemina Dealer www M com ae TEA LPR r CSD yf tae E a pitta 1 l2 Hes eae BAe Le ke E a NN ot m ji E a EDS SS Ae AUSSEN US eas ST P IS ru we xh J a res a Mer i ie ii MU wz aha Ts eje Mu ur aA qn er eS i a ae MS ul AERIS al Sr CSNLL 239 31033 3HL 0 E arie p Embroidery Design Collections Featuring Stand Alone Lace amp 3D Ornaments Recommended Stabilizer Aqua Mesh ar Badge Master For Mare Information about Expressive Lace and stahilizers Visit your
15. narrow buttonhole you may be able to decrease the width of the standard buttonhole using stitch width or double needle settings to create narrow beading Embellished Buttonholes Add personal charm and creativity to buttonholes with embellishments After sewing the buttonhole change to Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C or Clear Embroidery Foot 39 Sew a sample of the chosen motif to verify size and placement of the motif in relation to the buttonhole Select a decorative stitch acini Ga c ees ee E mm THROUGH THE NEEDLE After selecting the buttonhole and the digitized motif behind it engage Merge Buttonhole to remove the stitches underneath the buttonhole producing an embroidered buttonhole that can be cut open quickly and easily and sew the decorative pattern around the buttonhole on either side and or at each end Sewing the motif first and then stitching the buttonhole on top is another option To create eyelash buttonholes fold a length of decorative cord or thread to form loops secure to the buttonhole placement line and sew the buttonhole over the thread Loops may be snipped or not depending on the look you want to achieve BERNINA v4 Designer Plus Embroidery Software Create 14 Ruttanhales gives the option of adding buttonholes to a project l Buttonhole Compensation Plate One of the newest accessories from BERNINA the Buttonhole Compen sation Plate im
16. need to begin or improve your technique Appliqu Fundamentals Appliqu Techniques and Appliqu Plus High Falutin Fairy The centerpiece of this colorful mini quilt features the artwork of elinor peace bailey known for her fun spirit and unique dolls Simple Scrapping Design a page around one wow photo printed on fabric and stitched to paper Sewing Machine TLC Extend the life of your sewing equipment by treating it well and staying on top of routine maintenance Quilter s Toy Box Try your hand at appliqu foundation piecing and creating new blocks using the Designer Plus level of BERNINA Embroidery Software Designs All Around New hoops from Hoop It All make it easy to stitch extra large designs Initially Yours Add a bit of editing magic to a traditional monogram and it becomes something unique You ll never look at monograms the same way again Puzzle Pieces Dividing Large Designs Try this practice exercise to learn how to divide and stitch embroidery designs larger than the hoop Serger Smocking Blend beautiful silks and decorator fabrics with the serger s unique differential feed feature to make people wonder J ust how did she do that with a serger Software Scrapbooking Use the BERNINA Quilter software program to design a visual page layout a guide for assembling your scrapbook page To Koos and Beyond Create purses bags hats and even shoes with the embellishment techniques inspired by
17. of stitching on a scrap of fabric to remove the excess Oiling the oscillating hook system Oiling the rotary hook system Make Your Sewing Machine Happy The following short list details the key points of caring for your sewing machine NEEDLES Use only needles made to fit your brand and model of machine In general BERNINA and Schmetz needles are appropriate for BERNINA machines Needles should be replaced after 6 8 hours of sewing THREAD Select high quality long staple thread to minimize the amount of fuzz and lint deposited in the machine Inexpensive bargain thread can deposit large amounts of lint that build up in the feed dog and tension areas and can cause tension inconsistencies over time ROUTINE CLEANING After every sewing session remove the throat plate to brush out the lint and fuzz that accumulates around the feed dog and bobbin area Floss the tension disks as in the photo at left REGULAR LUBRICATION Oil as recommended by your sewing machine manufacturer using only the appropriate oil Do not use household oil or spray lubricant on your machine While some BERNINA sewing machines display a message when it is time to lubricate the hook there are times such as when using linty threads and fabric when more frequent cleaning and oiling is warranted particularly in machines that have a rotary hook systems YEARLY SERVICE In addition to regular maintenance take your
18. one has specific uses and can help you place the stitching exactly where it needs to be Move the needle position to the right if available and use the inside toe of the presser foot to guide the stitching along the edge of the appliqu Embroidery Foot BERNINA 6 has a deep tapered thread escape on the sole of the foot Open Embroidery Foot BERNINA 20 20C has no bar connect ing the toes in front of the needle provides excellent visibility Clear Embroidery Foot BERNINA 39 has a clear plastic sole good visibility and excellent fabric control Clear Appliqu Foot BERNINA 23 has a 3mm thread escape on the sole of the foot perfect for narrow and corded appliqu SATIN STITCH APPLIQU Traditional in style this method uses a zigzag stitch with a short length completely covering the raw edge of the appliqu shape Settings amp Supplies STITCH Zigzag Stitch STITCH LENGTH 0 2 0 5 depending on weight of thread STITCH WIDTH As desired NEEDLE POSITION Center or far right PRESSER FOOT Embroidery Foot 6 Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C Clear Appliqu Foot 23 Clear Embroidery Foot 39 THREAD Needle Decorative machine embroidery threads cotton or rayon Bobbin 60 2 Mettler embroidery thread NEEDLE Choose the needle based on the fabric and type and size of thread selected Machine Embroidery Metallica Metafil Topstitching TENSION Generally the tension for the upper
19. standard accessory BERNINA machines are able to make the tiniest of button holes or stitch one as long as needed even large enough for a pocket opening Always select the correct buttonhole foot for the job as described below Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide 3A 3C Designed for programmed buttonholes that stitch automatically This foot has a sensor to detect the length of the first buttonhole stitched then repeats that buttonhole until the size is changed This foot is included with most BERNINA sewing machines As the buttonhole is stitched the raised sole glides over the fabric while a rubber treaded sole grips the fabric and travels backward and forward with it The sliding gauge makes it easy to measure the length of the first buttonhole accurately Buttonhole Foot 3 3C Used when making a single buttonhole buttonholes larger than 29 mm and when stitching buttonholes in hard to reach areas The sole of this foot has two grooves that allow the fabric to move freely over the heavy build up of thread that forms the buttonhole Each side or bead of the buttonhole fits into one of the grooves so the foot will move smoothly The slight indentation on the sole in front of the needle assures that the foot can easily move over the thread as the stitching reverses to complete the buttonhole Buttonhole Foot with Slide 3B Foot 3B works with all BERNINA machines but was designed for those without
20. thread is reduced lower number This allows for the top thread to be pulled to the underside of the background fabric as well as not making frequent bobbin thread changes necessary Technique Fuse paper backed fusible web to the wrong side of appliqu shapes Draw shapes on the paper cut out Peel paper from the shapes and position them on the back ground fabric Fuse in place Stitch around the shapes covering the raw edges with the satin stitching The majority of the stitch should be on the appliqu shape with the needle penetrating the background fabric just outside the shape threads should be perpendicular to edge of the appliqu fabric laying side by side but not overlapping MITERED CORNERS Sew satin stitch to corner ending with needle down in the fabric pivot Reduce stitch width to 0 5mm take two stitches Increase stitch a width to Imm take two stitches Repeat the process of increasing stitch width and taking a couple of stitches until you are back to the original stitch width This covers the corner entirely with stitches giving the look of a mitered corner SMOOTH CURVES Stop and pivot slightly on a frequent basis for smooth curves Inside Pivot with the need in the fab ric at the inside edge of the appliqu Outside Pivot mne with needle in the fabric at the outside edge of the appliqu SECURING Overlap the ending with the beginn
21. to protect your pressing surface Position and fuse on top of the fusing sheet place a second sheet on top to protect the sole of the iron NEEDLE THREAD The highest quality thread is necessary for a successful appliqu project It is also very important to use the correct type of thread for the select ed technique For the majority of appliqu j techniques machine embroidery threads will be used Most machine embroidery threads are 2 ply and softly twisted different from construction quality threads which are usually 3 ply because they need to be strong enough to hold a seam together Machine embroidery threads on the other hand are usually decorative with a soft filled in appearance They are available in a wide variety of fiber contents including cotton rayon and polyester variations in fiber content give different sewn appearances when applied so experiment and have fun Ask yourself these questions before selecting a thread Will the project be washed repeatedly Will the stitching be subject to friction Will it be bleached or soaked in stain removing products requiring the thread to be color fast Do want a soft matte finish or a shiny look to the thread Your answers will help you select the appropriate threads from the list below Polyester tough durable soft enough not to cut the fabric colorfast OESD Isacord Embroidery Thread Mettler Polysheen Embroidery Thread YLI Varia
22. At this time select and group the remainder of the design with the exception of the long satin stitched line See Picture 3 48 BY FAITH REYNOLDS Designs larger than the hoop can be stitched by dividing them into sections and using multiple hoopings to embroider each portion of the design piecing them together for the complete design Use the design shown here as a practice exercise to learn this technique for divid ing any design Note This lesson covers the manual process of dividing a design If using the Mega Hoop with the artista 200E the Art Engine of the sewing computer will automatically split the design into sections Analyze the design to see how it can be divided into sections that will fit into your hoop Select the parts of design that will fit in the hoop group and name it Section 1 Continue until all sections have been selected grouped and consecutively numbered lf needed 6 91129 a part that can t be divided break it into sections that will fit within the previous hoopings overlapping the parts slightly Group each of the redigitzed sections with one of the numbered sections Add a reference line of straight stitching in the center of the design Copy and paste this line as many times as you have sections Group each section with one of the straight stitch reference lines Stitch the design rehooping for each section Align reference lines for a perfectly stitched design When embroide
23. Foot 10 10C a vine was stitched across the skirt Roses some embroidered directly on the fabric others stitched on Poly Mesh stabilizer and appliqu d to the skirt complete the look This technique is easy and allows you to experiment with the placement of the flowers before stitching them onto the garment Place the stabilizer in your embroidery hoop stitch out the design then use a stencil burning tool to melt the stabilizer from around the edge of the appliqu SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Start with your original wearable art creation such as the jacket shown here Strip piecing embroidery decorative stitches couched threads and yams and appliqu techniques were used to create the fabric of the jacket from which the pattern pieces were cut leaving lots of interesting scraps and leftovers These went into a bag and were later used to create the ensemble Where to start A jacket does not stand alone it needs pants a skirt or a dress to complete the look Details make any simple project eye catching and memorable 55 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Bags are the in thing for crafters and sewers of all ages and make great gifts Some are very simple and quick to make such as the Potato Chip Bags featured in Issue 7 of Through the Needle Some are more complicated with zippers pockets hidden compartments ruffled edges beaded or feathered fringes and or handles cre
24. Freemotion stipple quilt each corner Complete the Pillow Trim the pillow top to 15 x 15 Cut two rectangles of backing fabric A 214 x15 B 13 x 15 Fold under 3 on the 147 edge of rectangle A Fold under 3 again Mark buttonhole placement along the fold of the rectangle Stitch buttonholes using Automatic Buttonhole Foot 3C Fold back 3 on the 13 edge of rectangle B Using the buttonholes on the other rectangle as a guide mark button placement Sew buttons in place using Button Sew On Foot 18 and the button sew on stitch Button rectangles together Baste across outer edges where the rectangles overlap Using Clear Embroidery Foot 39 baste trim to pillow front aligning raw edges and mitering corners e Stitch front to back right sides together sandwiching the basted trim between the layers Tip Unbutton center button before stitching edges together for ease in turning pillow cover right side out Trim corners turn cover right side out Insert pillow form button opening closed tty fee ee fu a Sette A sett ius inim FAM ate em iP oe a VSPA ERSTER SERAIS Bm s EE 5 md one ean 8 amp E ae a m nil Ad j 1 ak om re J A i nai rer SE la eG kb i 1 A e Ax ne T iin i it s a SE maid a E h d ithin E E WIthI ux
25. IRST DESIGN Select the bottom design and click on the Cut tool Save as Flowers amp Vine 1 ART Click on Paste SAVE SECOND DESIGN Select the upper design and touch the Delete key on the keyboard don t worry you have already saved this design Open Color Film and move the last color box to the far left Save as Flower amp Vine 2 ART EMBROIDERING THE COMPLETE DESIGN Prepare the fabric by drawing a vertical line through the center of the fabric using a water soluble marker Use the template to hoop the upper part of the design making sure that the vertical line on the fabric is below the center vertical line on the template After embroidering the first design rehoop the fabric aligning the center vertical line and making sure the lower part of the first design is completely within the embroidery space When the second design is opened in the machine the needle will move to the beginning of the reference line Move the design until the needle is precisely over the first stitch on the reference line Stitch without thread to make sure it is matched up Skip to the second color in the design and embroider After stitching is complete unhoop the fabric clip any unwant ed threads and remove the reference lines See Picture 8 Originally published as an online class at www berninausa com Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 reference line 49 Take serging out of the everyday
26. Local Sewing Machine Dealer or log on to ww EmbroideryOnline com Expressiva Larr i 2158 Filiai E nipin LEL Produced under by CHE Ire Al Karli Krserund
27. NEEDLE PUNCH QUILTING What s Inside The Road to Creativity Petite Poche little purse Making Changes Beautiful Buttonholes Quilting 101 See It Scan It Sew It The Art of Appliqu High Falutin Fairy Simple Scrapping Sewing Machine TLC Quilters Toy Box Designs All Around Initially Yours Puzzle Pieces Dividing Large Designs Serger Smocking Software Scrapbooking To Koos and Beyond Tassels Trims and Stellar Stitches UT map 2 d Je Page 23 with pattern pullout Artista 300 table of ontents The Road to Creativity Travel this road to the 2005 Creativity Retreat sponsored by BERNINA Petit Poche This easy to make little purse is constructed of wool and embellished with needle punched accents Making Changes An Introduction to Embroidery Editing Learn to personalize your embroidery and fulfill your creative visions Beautiful Buttonholes Use BERNINA sewing machines as well as embroidery systems and software to make buttonholes to suit any garment fabric type or design style Quilting 101 This introduction to quilting techniques covers both walking foot and freemotion techniques including the new BSR BERNINA Stitch Regulator See It Scan It Sew It Start with your original artwork import it into your computer and turn it into a rich embroidery design The Art of Appliqu This special 12 page section has everything you
28. Place Stabil Stick stabilizer on the back of the hoop with the sticky side facing up Using temporary spray adhesive bond batting to the wrong side of the fabric square Fold the fabric into quarters and crease lightly to mark the horizontal and vertical centers Place the folded fabric on the hoop in one quandrant as shown Unfold the fabric and smooth in place lightly mark a cross in the center of the fabric with chalk Measure and mark from center on all four sides E Put the hoop on the machine and adjust the slide hoop attachment until the needle is even with the mark Use the Move Hoop or Move Motif function depending on your model to move the hoop or design till the needle is directly over the centerline at the mark SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION After embroidering the first design Step 1 take the hoop off the machine and rotate the hoop counterclockwise Slide the hoop attachment on the left side of the hoop and repeat the steps taken to position the first design Embroider the design again Step 2 Continue until design is complete Steps 3 and 4 46 THROUGH THE NEEDLE BY JENNIFER GIGAS Typically a monogram consists of the first middle and last initials the last initial is often larger than the other two letters and placed in the center to designate the family name Small embroidered elements inter and baselines may be sele
29. S OF SEWING IS PLAYING WITH FABRIC AND THREAD learning new techniques staying on top of the newest prints and textures and experimenting with new colors and combina tions Another is playing with the most up to date toys presser feet accessories machines BERNINA has always been an education based company helping consumers stretch their stitching boundaries and get the most from their sewing room equipment That s one of the reasons we participate in consumer shows around the country teaching classes and conducting seminars and publish Through the Needle magazine we want to offer as much of our sewing expertise to sewers as possible to expose both beginning and experienced stitchers to the newest innovations in the sewing world One of the greatest treasures of sewing is getting together with passionate stitchers r 9 spending time with others that share our common obsession with fiber and gt d fabric So in addition to consumer shows around the country BERNINA is 4 3 M Creativity also hosting our second Creativity Retreat to be held in August 2005 just 4 AS _ Retreat outside Chicago d 5 P Y rt jaa Come join us for 3 days of hands on and lecture demo classes covering sewing serging embroidery and software projects and techniques Here s what attendees from last year had to say about our first Creativity Retreat held in April 2004 This was a lot mo
30. STITCH IN THE DITCH An easy machine fed technique utilizing straight lines of stitches to define the seamlines of the patchwork Attach standard sole to Walking Foot 50 Thread machine with cotton thread in the bobbin and cotton or clear monofila ment in the needle Select a straight stitch with a length of about 3mm Beginning at center of quilt align a seam with the center needle position mark on the foot Stitch guiding fabric so that the needle sews in the well formed between blocks and or patchwork pieces Edgestitch Foot 10 can also be used depending on the batting Foot 10 foot also works well to secure a binding in place CHANNEL QUILTING Cover the quilt surface with parallel lines of machine fed stitching filling defined areas and creating texture Start the quilting stitch with tiny stitches which eliminates tie offs and then at end of row press Pattern Begin to get the tiny stitches back again Use a temporary or wash away fabric marker and a long straight edge to mark a line from side to side across the area to be quilted parallel to the edges or at an angle Attach the standard sole to Walking Foot 50 Select a straight stitch or hand look quilting stitch thread machine as desired for selected stitch Starting in the middle of the quilt stitch along the marked line from the center to one side Repeat for the remaining half of line Attach right side seam guide set to desired distance between rows Work
31. TACHING THE APPLIQU After finishing the edges of the opening position another fabric behind it right side up pin in place Stitch around the opening through all layers using a blanket stitch The bite of the stitch should be on the foreground fabric the one with the opening not on the fabric placed behind the opening FABRIC SELECTION Embellished appliqu s can be used with any fabric provided that the fabric is able to withstand additional stitching and fibers Fabrics can be beefed up with the addition of stabilizer or fusible interfacing Testing is the only way to find the best combination for your project As a rule garment fabrics usually perform best with a fusible interfacing pre shrinking adhesive backed products is a must Placing proj ects with them in a very warm water bath a creative for approximately 40 minutes will flair do the job Hang them to dry and then fuse to the wrong side of the fabric at the temperature suggested in the manufacturer s instructions Test fused pieces using the method used to clean the finished project by either washing or dry cleaning Take traditional appliqu a step further by adding decorative stitches and embellishments Embellished appliqu s not only create a stunning focal point but also enhance your Stabilizers that work well with most applications are OESD s Poly Mesh or Aqua Mesh sometimes a tear away stabilizer will work as well
32. aced there are a few rules which ensure the uniformity of the stitched shapes Lines of stitching should be evenly spaced about apart Curves and loops should be of the same scale the size of which depends on the area being stippled Traditionally stipple stitches resemble puzzle pieces smooth even curves with lines that do not intersect This can be tricky Keep a small pad and pencil in your pocket or purse for prac ticing stipple doodling in odd moments Another way to practice stippling is with a pencil and coloring books that have a motif in the center of the page only sewing on coloring book pages with no thread is also great practice DOODLE QUILTING Think of this technique as controlled doodling Squiggles swirls leaves thunderbolts hearts any and all shapes and figures are acceptable THE BERNINA STITCH REGULATOR Now freemotion stitching is easier than ever The new BERNINA Stitch Regulator BSR with two stitching modes is standard for the aurora 440QE It offers regulated even stitches no matter the speed or direction in which the fabric is moved A beep signals if the fabric is moved too quickly When using the new BERNINA Stitch Regulator the BSR adjusts the needle movement to coordinate with the movement of the fabric aiding in the production of consistent regular stitches All you have to do is lower the feed dog and move the fabri
33. appliqu your photo s onto the page Add more decorative stitches or stitch combinations around the outside of the photo s see Stitch Recipes in each issue of Through the Needle or visit www berninausa com gt Sewing Studio Creating pages with fabric offers design options beyond those offered by paper such as photo transfer onto designer fabrics and pieced and quilted pages Photo transfer onto fabric can be accomplished in several ways Use printable fabrics that are sized to fit and created with chemical formulas that enable ink jet print ing or prepare your own fabrics using a product called Bubble J et Set 2000 This is a longer process but allows the use of beautiful fabrics in colors other than beige or white Q If a pictureis worth 1000 words why add anything elseto your page A According to Cindy Losekamp author of Fabri Scrapping The pictur es arethe heart and the words arethe soul of your scrapbook page ournaling can be stitched on your pages with sewing machine characters or with lettering from embroidery software The BERNINA Designer Plus v4 Embroidery S oft ware Software has 50 fonts and allows the use of TrueType fonts installed on your computer This gives you a world of possibilities for creating descriptions names and dates for your pages Stitch lettering on fabric supported by a layer of stabilizer Quilted pages may be embellished with t he appliqu and craft stitches in the BERNINA embroid
34. arments flow over the body and create a flattering silhouette A walking advertisement for fun is how someone once described elinor peace bailey With her bright clothing outgoing nature and lively sense of humor it is obvious that elinor is not your typical sewing teacher A globe trotting teacher of dollmaking who designs fabric and exercises her T wes talent as a graphic artist on any stray Learning with Barbara surface she can find elinor travels gt about 200 days a year teaching a 0 and sharing her unique designs e 2 for dolls toys and other gt ill i b C 2 059 E 1 stuffed creations Creativity 1 li D A 1 For more information ET Retreat about the Creativity t bv BERNINA Retreat from BERNINA visit www berninausa com grandmothers knew it and here we are Some of us are grandmothers ourselves I am passing along our love of sewing This feels good to me it feels right feel so on my path when I m sewing when I m teaching sewing and even when I m just talking about sewing C reativity fabric women it s just a magical combination Our grandmothers knew it their I m interested in getting younger sewers started remember when got my first pattern and realized so much of the instructions were assumed got so frustrated just threw the instructions across the room But didn t give up used the pieces the big pi
35. ary move points These may be control points to alter shape and stitch moved to alter the angle shape of the letter and the stitch angle SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION TOOLS Spend time becoming familiar with the various editing tools available in your embroidery software Once comfortable with the function of each tool you will find exciting and innovative ways to combine the features of your software program Refer to your owner s manual often there s a wealth of information generally overlooked in this valuable resource The following icons represent several common editing tools that are used frequently Select Object Mirror Image Horizontal Mirror Image Vertical Rotate CCW CW Undo Scale by 20 Up Down Lettering Values AIDC LE E Reshape Lettering 12 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Buttonholes can be functional or decorative and in many cases serve both purposes A basic in garment construction buttonholes are offered to the sewing enthusiast in a myriad of choices on the sewing machines of the 21st century With the wonderful buttonhole choices on BERNINA sewing machines and the unique ability to create buttonholes in the BERNINA v4 0 Embroidery Software buttonholes truly can be made to measure and personalized to suit any garment fabric type or design style Basic Buttonhole Feet Almost every sewing machine makes a basic buttonhole and has a buttonhole foot included as a
36. ated with beads and yams A wardrobe of bags used more of the leftovers including strips pieced for the jacket Handles unusual lining fabrics decorative zippers and the variety of closure elements tum the simple into the divine Additional elements decorative stitches freemotion quilting and more embroidered roses and leaves coordinated the bags to the jacket and skirt A variety of materials and techniques were used to create the bag handles braided yarns ribbons rattail cords beads and purchased handles in a variety of sizes and styles SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION A purchased hat and shoes were personalized with additional embroidered roses and leaves secured with a glue gun Remember these are your creations inspiring to others and above all fun to design and make Each is unique and interesting from the plainest bag to the most over the top shoes and hat Have a good time creating your ensemble shopping for and using up your stash Remember it only becomes a collection if you don t use it You have permission to let go and create accessorize accessorize accessorize Publications For Instructions and Inspiration Koos Couture amp Collage Bags With Style Chole Handbag by Linda Chang Teufel by Stephanie Kimura Katy Bags and more patterns included from Lazy Girl Designs Fashion amp Imagination book Handmade Bags by Terence Temy Humbug Bag Through The Need
37. attachment e Pinch a 7 2 piece of white roving pull and cut a 1 2 length Fan out one end of roving Place over flower portion of design Punch roving into wool Pull off a small portion of pink roving Overlay white flower with pink roving concentrating saturation at base of flower Repeat above steps for second flower Fill in leaf with green roving e Twist Y4 thickness of green roving to form stem and punch to wool in stem locations Purse Construction Layer both pieces of felted wool Use rotary cutter with wavy blade to cut purse out using pattern as a guide e Attach Buttonhole Foot to machine Back each buttonhole area with Tear Away stabilizer Sew two 17 2 button holes on each purse piece placed as shown on the pattern SP e a am m us age t l 1 i i 1 D Cut buttonholes open and remove excess stabilizer Attach Walking Foot 50 to machine Select straight stitch Pin both layers of wool together Place edge of Walking Foot along outermost edge of wavy cut wool e Sew around purse leave top open with straight stitch securing both starting and stopping points Cut wire edge ribbon into two 18 lengths Thread ribbon through buttonholes so that the cut ends are on the outside of the purse Tie knots approximately 1 above cut ends Decorative Punch Tool Check List Remove needl
38. batting e Quilting Inspirations Embroidery collection by Keryn Emmerson Jeans Stitch thread by YLI variegated needle All purpose polyester bobbin e Topstitch needle e Hoop ItAll Quilter s Square Double Wide Hoop or other appropriate Hoop It AII for your artista model Stabil Stick adhesive backed stabilizer Temporary spray adhesive BERNINAG 4 Embroidery Software any level including Editor Lite Software Fabric marking chalk 0 lt a5 D m lt z o o op A s an embroiderer don t limit yourself to thinking that the sizes of your designs are limited to the size of the hoops that came with your embroidery system These new hoops from Hoop It All make it easy to stitch a large design in four quadrants rotating the hoop 90 for each stitching This beautiful floral arrangement starts with an embroidered outline quilting design and blooms into a stitched square 12 x 12 design is 10 x 10 Perfect for the center of a medallion quilt or a striking table covering Open the BERNINA V4 Embroidery Software program Select design 45 from the Quilting Inspirations Embroidery collection by Keryn Emmerson Resize the design to 90 should measure approximately 5 square 5 03 x 5 06 Add a second color to the color bar by selecting Settings Thread Colors Change Threads in Design to 2 click OK This second color will be used to add a reference line for
39. be reshaped using the Reshape Object tool on the Edit toolbar Select appliqu flowers leaves and swirl select Group or press Ctrl G select Copy and Paste While the duplicated shapes are selected engage Mirror Horizontal move them to the right Note there is no need to include the stems as these will be created from bias strips no pattern piece is needed Delete the graphic Fill the background and borders with fabrics of your choice Select Print Preview select Appliqu click Print Cut out the shapes and use as patterns for appliqu shapes Create New Blocks sns ARIE 3E a 1 Preview your original block designs before cutting and sewing A though there is no way to import new blocks into BERNINA Quilter using the appliqu tools within Quilter provides a means to visualize blocks in the settings and fabrics desired Designing the Block Open the Quilter program Open the Quilt Layout dialog box Select Rectangular format 3 blocks across and 4 down 10 square Add a 3 mitered border if desired Press OK Click on the Show All icon Select the Load Picture icon from the Edit toolbar From My Designs Quilting select quilting design bmp open Select the graphic Left click on one of the corner control points drag the point diagonally to rescale the graphic to fit in a block While the graphic is selected hold
40. c The BSR operates with a camera like sensor that reads E the fabric through an optical lens in the foot The sen sors looks at the fabric senses the movement and calculates the distance then directs the needle to stitch depending on the selected stitch length settings For example if the stitch length is set at 2 5mm the sensor calculates the distance and stitch frequency repeating stitches with regular precision regardless of the speed at which the fabric is moved The BSR works on fabrics with a variety of surface textures including velvet lam fleece corduroy and denim making it perfect for a wide range of quilting applications GH THE NEEDLE The BERNINA Stitch Regulator is constructed with the famous BERNINA hopper mechanism as are all BERNINA freemotion feet ensuring precision stitching When the needle enters the fabric the freemotion sole moves upward as the needle leaves the fabric the sole is lowered so that the fabric is not raised with the needle thus preventing flagging and uneven stitches Three soles are included with the BSR to handle all your freemotion stitching needs Closed Metal Sole Similar to Darning Foot 9 with the needle centered and visible Open Metal Sole Like Freemotion Embroidery Foot 24 this sole gives an optimal view of the needle Transparent Sole Glides easily over all fabrics including layers of batting in every direction Marked w
41. c file needs to be created for use by the embroidery software Scan the artwork and save in a format recognized by the embroidery software Note For a complete listing of supported file formats refer to page 418 of the User s Manual The better the quality of the original artwork the better the image will be It is not necessary to scan the artwork with a high resolution High resolution files are very large and may tie up valuable system resources resulting in a slowdown in software response Note For a listing of resolution settings refer to page 88 of the Owner s Manual Graphics may be scanned directly into the Designer Plus software Select the Picture Tab Select the Scan Picture Icon o Preview the image in the scanning program window 0 Select the area to be scanned o Scan and save the graphic in a compatible format in the My Designs folder Note Graphics scanned this way must be saved separately from the design file or they will be lost when you close the design Graphics stored on your computer on a CD or on other media may be imported into the Designer Plus software Select the Picture Tab Select the Load Picture icon o From the Look In box select the appropriate drive o Be sure the correct Files of Type has been selected o Locate the image you wish to work with click Open What is the Final Result Take a look at the graphic image on the screen What kind of stitching will be most app
42. cted Choose King Charles from the i 1 was alphabet drop twined with the eners add a touch o down elegance and nostalgia to the monogram A single letter surrounded by embroidered Type the letter B in elements is a nice way to personalize an item the text screen Press OK shared by members of the same household Click on the design screen to set the lettering Select the letter From the color drop down menu select C19 Reshape the letter if desired Right click THE SINGLE LETTER MONOGRAM mos Ens Press the letter A on the keyboard This opens the lettering Object to reduce the size of the Properties dialog box From here lettering style size justification lettering SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Select File Insert Design Select Black Border 2 gt Open While the design is still selected click and drag one of the corner control points to scale the motif down until the size is visually pleasing with the B Move the design to the left side of the letter Select File gt Insert Design Select Black Border 3 gt Open Right click on the rotation tool 3x Position the motif towards the bottom of Black Border 2 Experiment with reshaping of the letters When satisfied with the arrangement select File gt Save As When the Save dialog box opens name the design file and save in your My Designs folder To move the letter t
43. d setting NEEDLE POSITION Center or far right depends on foot selection PRESSER FOOT Edgestitch Foot 10 10C or Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C THREAD Needle Heavy weight threads such as 30 2 Cotton or Rayon J eans Stitch Cordonnet Bobbin 50 3 Mettler Silk finish NEEDLE Larger eye needle 90 14 machine embroidery or 80 12 90 14 Topstitching Needle TENSION Tension needs to be adjusted to achieve a balanced stitch The adjustment will be determined based on whether the heavy weight thread is used only through the needle or for both needle and bobbin Technique Fuse paper backed fusible web to the wrong side of appliqu shapes Draw shapes on the paper cut out Peel paper from the shapes and position them on the background fabric Fuse in place Stitch around the shapes with the the straight part of the stitch laying along and covering the raw fabric edge The sideways part of the stitch finger decorates the appliqu fabric and secures it to the project PERFECT CORNERS Sew perfect corners by using the Pattern Begin function or accessing the stitch again Sew to corner aligning the finger of the stitch with the corner of the fabric Touch Pattern Begin Pivot fabric 45 Take one stitch only touch Pattern Begin Pivot fabric 45 continue sewing to complete the appliqu Place Tear Away stabilizer on the wrong side of the area to which the appliqu will be stitched This stabilize
44. d drag a corner handle to scale the design proportionally Click and drag a point on the top to alter height only Click and drag a side point to alter width only LETTERING VALUES Editor Lite software includes 5 scalable embroidery fonts Editor Auto Designer Designer Plus include 50 fonts in addition TrueType fonts may be used with Designer Plus Monogramming or adding lettering to an existing design is a wonderful way to personalize a project Please refer to your owner s manual for advanced lettering information To add lettering Left click on the Lettering Values icon Click on the location on the design screen where you would like to position the lettering Type your text it appears on the screen Press Enter to generate the lettering object Lettering may be edited scaled rotated or mirrored just like any other object RESHAPE LETTERING Note The Reshape icon allows the reshaping of lettering in the Editor Lite program The reshaping of any embroi dery object not just lettering is possible in Editor Auto Designer and Designer Plus Individual letters may be reshaped to create just the look you want for your project To reshape Select the lettering select the Reshape icon Click on the letter s ui Ts center control point EN 2 m click on the outline 2r n M of the letter Do F Boundary control T points will appear click on letter bound
45. diagonals Hoop keeping the center of the square in the center of the hoop and aligning the markings on the fabric with the diagonal lines on the hoop template Embroider the design in the center of the square Remove from hoop trim jump threads and bobbin thread from behind the tassels Press lightly Add a Stitch Recipe Mark a line from the center of the top edge of the square to the center of the right side of the square Mark a line from the center of the right edge to the center of the lower edge Repeat for the remaining two sides framing in the embroidery Tip Use Nifty Notions Cut for the Cure 14 x 14 Ruler to draw an 8 square around the embroidered center making sure that the centers and diagonals are aligned Attach Clear Embroidery Foot 39 to the machine Select blanket stitch move the needle position to the far left and engage the Horizontal Mirror Image function Sew along the marked line aligning the right edge of the presser foot with the marked line Press the Clear button to undo the changes made to the blanket stitch Move the needle position to the far left Sew a second row of blanket stitch aligning the right edge of the foot along the previous row of blanket stitching Quilt the Corners If using the BSR BERNINA GStitch Regulator attach the foot to the machine lower the feed dog and activate the BSR If not using the BSR attach Freemotion Embroidery Foot 24 to the machine
46. down the Ctrl key select the block and align centers Select four colors A B C and D to correspond with block segments from the Colors Library and send to Palette Select a color for segment A working in the upper left hand quadrant Select the Draw Appliqu tool Set boundary points around the segment right clicks set curves left clicks set corners backspace erases the last point When the first boundary i is gt complete press Enter Press Enter again to complete the shape Note Use the Zoom Box tool for a magnified view of the block segment Repeat for B C and D segments of the quadrant Select all parts of the quadrant Group Copy and Paste into remaining quadrants using the Rotate Clockwise Counterclockwise tool as needed Select and Group all quadrants Copy and Paste into remaining layout blocks as desired SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION To use your new block in future layouts open the BERNINA Quilter file containing the created block and Copy one block from the layout Paste into the new layout When 6 0 blocks drop the new color over the appropriate Colors Used color chip or ungroup each segment to recolor individual sections ANDI a vy PY ai OC gt 4 gt S gt o gt gt 3elteitet 43 THROUGH THE NEEDLE SUPPLIES Any artista embroidery system 14 square of 100 cotton fabric pre washed 14 square of low loft
47. e needle thumb screw presser foot stitch plate bobbin case bobbin hook Attach punch tool stitch plate Note Select the correct stitch plate for your BERNI NA machine model punch tool presser foot punch tool needle holder punch tool needle holder screw Set Up feed dog down straight stitch selected bobbin area door open Purse Dattern Cut 2 of fabric E 1 p Es I gi a a Lx L imc WES V wm SSH GR 1 Me s original F horizontal design x f mirror i a x fa a a aM r original vertical design 4 mirror y 3 E Mri a E a M E 8 P im d akin anges BY JENNIFER GIGAS g An Introduction to Embroidery Editing asic editing software provides the means to alter an existing embroidery design to suit your project You are no longer limited in your embroidery design selection Regardless of the color size or style of the project editing software helps you personalize embroidery designs to fulfill your creative vision The BERNINA Embroidery software features discussed in this article allow you to make simple changes to your designs customizing them to your liking Note All software references in this article are to Editor Lite included with the BERNINA models aurora 430E and 440 QEE embroidery systems and also apply to the other levels of BERNINA Embroidery Software Editor Auto Designer D
48. eces only still refuse to use facings zippers and buttonholes Influenced by my Grandmother developed my own style of sewing She never used patterns She would hold the fabric up to me and cut away what we didn t need and sew the pieces together understand it s a bit different than the home economics classes in school type of sewing although really envy those able to do that fine tailoring style My very first garment at age 4 was made from two of my Grandfather s shop hankies bandana scarves Grandma had me sew them together at the shoulders and side seams voila a top wore it every day for an entire week My first Modular Design like using very simple shapes wonderful fabrics and connecting them with beautiful clean seams found ways to sew beautifully that do not require a great deal of skill and promise impeccable results love the challenge of learning new technologies and integrating them with the traditional sewing styles of the past feel compelled to carry forward our special history of needlework in new and exciting ways My personal design style has evolved over the years as have added new techniques both innovative and traditional to my repertoire of design and sewing skills Aa My designs usually begin with a vague image I ve been playing with in my mind and elements of designs I ve done in the past Sometimes it takes years until the idea feels ready to be
49. ed to support the stitch formation of appliqu stabilizers are necessary to prevent tunneling of the fabric Choose the lightest weight available even if it requires using multiple layers sepa rate layers before tearing away Always test the com bination of fabric and stabilizer for each project Removable tear stabilizer away upon completion of all stitching the stabilizer under the stitching will remain in place to support the stitches OESD Light Weight Tear Away lightest weight available use two layers OESD Ultra Clean amp Tear medium weight leaves a super clean edge after tearing softens with repeated washings OESD Medium Weight Tear Away black for use with dark colored project fabrics OESD Smooth Touch Tear Away medium weight softest against the skin Water Soluble for washable projects all of the stabilizer washes out leaving no supporting stabilizer under the appliqu stitches OESD Aqua Mesh Wash Away easiest of the available wash away products to wash out soft against the skin OESD Aqua Film Backing rinse to remove completely OESD BadgeMaster heavier than Aqua Film soak to remove completely Permanent cut away excess stabilizer after stitching leaving stabilizer to support the appliqu stitching OESD Stabil Stick Cut Away medium weight less needle gum up than other sticky backed products especially useful with knit and stretch fabrics OESD Poly M
50. edles This is the rippling look that is often found on little girl s anklets ribbed necklines or elegant flounces on bridal and eveningwear Dial the differential feed up to its highest setting 2 0 and the fabric is fed faster by the front feed dogs resulting in a kind of gathering or easing before it is captured by the needles Serging row Notions 1 s yds brush fringe yards s diameter piping filler cord HU Lid 4 A Ds Uva d enun d alb 1 n 8 A1 X upon row of fabric with closely placed lines of chainstitching duplicates time consuming machine smocking in a very short amount of time Make sure that you are working with a single layer of lightweight fabric for the best possible results Because light weight fabrics will gather quite a bit always allow at least 3 times the finished length Test on a swatch to see how much is drawn into the smocking Settings for chainstitch smocking Thread the right needle and side chainstitch looper with all purpose serger thread Refer to your serger manual for threading illustrations SL 4 Differential Feed 2 0 Needle tension slightly tightened appx 6 Looper tension M Draw a vertical center line on the wrong side of the silk dupioni Since the decorative E chainstitch is created by the lower chainstitch looper fabric will be y placed underneath the presser e Se led foot wrong side down
51. em which is the mechanism that the bobbin case fits into Each type is cleaned and oiled using slightly different methods Oscillating Hook System activa 125 240 virtuosa 130 160 aurora 430 440 artista 165 170 Rotary Hook System 1008 artista 180 200 CLEANING amp OILING Bobbin Area Remove the needle plate and bobbin case and hook Oscillating Hook System only Remove the hook e With a lint brush clean around the feed dog the hook and the surrounding area Oscillating Hook System only Clean the hook Clean the bobbin case Brush lint out don t blow it in Use the brush included with your machine or use a make up blush or powder brush or a small paintbrush to remove lint Tension Area Lift the presser foot bar and using a lint brush clean each side of the top tension discs Lower the presser foot bar and use a length of buttonhole twist or Cordonnet to floss each side of the top tension discs see photo Check the take up lever for jammed thread ends if found gently remove or take to a trained technician X Floss both sides of the tension disk Oiling Oscillating Hook System only Reinstall the hook if it was removed when clearing the lint Place one drop or two drops of oil in the areas shown or as indicated in your BERNINA Guide and Instruction Manual Insert the bobbin case as instructed in the manual Note If machine is accidentally over oiled sew several lines
52. ery soft ware or the quilting and decorative stitches of your sewing machine Learn more about embroidery software at your local BERNINA store and visit www berninausa com for on line classes Q How do make sure the images for my scrapbook pages arethe highest quality A Start with quality equipment to create and prepare your images Digital cameras are wonderful tools for creating beautiful photos to use in these projects When considering photo transfer keep in mind the quality of your photographs A great resource found at bookstores and online at www simples crapbooksmag com is A Simple Guide to Digital S crapbooking It s full of good information on what to look for when selectimg photography equipment Hints Cameras come with a wide range of options and pricing Look for high capacity memory cards CCD image size of 3 mega pixels or higher and optical zoom lens of 3x or greater Scanners are also available with a variety of options Look for a scanner with 1200 dpi dots per inch or greater bit depth of at least 24 bits and high qualit y soft ware Your printer should have an acceptable print speed however long you re willing to wait an expanded range of colored inks archival quality with black ink optimized for photos or text SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Gener al Sew Scrap Tools and Supplies Sewing and embroidery machine in good working order i e the artista 200E BSE BSE or deco 330 comb
53. es in this small wall hanging surrounded by a vibrant pieced border love to watch over sewing spaces to make sure all of your projects go together just as planned Download fairy design from www berninausa com What s N ew Free Downloads Free Fairy Artwork Print the design onto fabric and trim to be 73 x 73 4 G G Piecing Inner Border Stitch borders to the sides of the printed fairy fabric trimming strips ends even with the raw edges of the block Add borders to the upper and lower edges trimming strips to fit Press seam allowances toward the border strips Cornerstones Cut sixteen 2 squares four each from four different fabrics Stitch squares together in sets of two stitch pairs together to make a total of four 4 patch squares Outer Border Stitch sets of four strips together lengthwise as desired using Patchwork Foot 37 or Patchwork Foot with Guide 57 for perfect seam allowances Add decorative stitches and couched fibers to the seamlines as desired see Sew Touchable on page 37 Before pressing the seams of the stitched strips decide the type of couching and or decorative stitching you will use Press seam OPEN if decorative stitches or couched smooth cords yarn are to be applied exactly along the seamline between two strips Press seam TO ONE SIDE if decorative stitching is to be applied to only one strip edge or if a textured cord yarn is to be applied between two strips Using t
54. esh Cut Away medium weight soft to the skin minimizes shadowing of stabilizer through light colored garments excellent for knitted fabrics perforated sheets available in white black and beige Fusible usually iron on product remains around and under the appliqu to support both the appliqu and its stitches especially useful on large appliqu s for table linens OESD Fusible Poly Mesh soft but stable HTC Whisper Weft adds support while maintaining fabric s flexibility especially good for wearable art projects HTC Fusi Knit fusible tricot interfacing with cross wise stretch excellent for soft fabrics SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION ADHESIVES Several methods of appliqu use fusible products to adhere the appliqu shapes to the background fabric There are several types available for use in a variety of appliqu situations Permanent remains in the project after washing Fine Fuse from Quilters Resource for soft and light weight fabric pure white e Steam A Seam2 double sided stick on fusible web soft will not gum up the needle position and fuse the pieces together before placing them on the project 606 Spray And Fix for tiny pieces spray the fabric then cut the appliqu shapes Temporary dissipates after 12 to 24 hours 505 Temporary Spray Adhesive fabric to fabric 202 Temporary Spray Adhesive paper to paper or paper to fabric Use a non stick fusing sheet
55. esigner Plus OPENING AN EXISTING DESIGN Editor Lite has 64 ready to stitch pure art files Pure art files provide maximum editing flexibility with the best results Designs from cards multi format CD s or purchased from www embroideryonline com may be easily imported into the BERNINA Embroidery software for editing Please refer to your owner s manual for specific information on importing designs To open a design Select File gt Open gt My Designs My Designs is automatically installed on the C Drive Select Border Black 2 click open The design appears on the design screen SELECT OBJ ECT Before an embroidery object may be manipulated or edited it must be selected First activate the tool and then select the object The selected object will turn magenta Select an object by left clicking on the Select Object tool Left click on the object you wish to select or draw a boundary box around the object MIRROR IMAGE Use the Mirror Image tools to mirror the object horizontally vertically or both When embroidering designs for opposing sides of a project mirror imaging the designs will result in a more professionally finished project Select the design you wish to mirror Click on the Mirror Image tool representing the direction in which to mirror the design ROTATE CCW CW Quickly rotate an embroidery object by 45 using the Rotation Tool Left click to rotate the motif counterclockwise right click
56. ethod are placed behind the fabric showing through openings in the main fabric Settings amp Supplies For stitch and settings information see specific techniques satin stitch blanket stitch decorative stitch etc above Technique Two methods are used to create an opening in the foreground fabric One method is used for symmetrical motifs and another for asymmetrical motifs SYMMETRICAL MOTIFS Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C Fold foreground fabric right sides together in desired position of motif Draw half motif on wrong side using fold as center of motif Thread machine with water soluble basting thread in needle regular thread in bobbin Sew on drawn line Cut inside opening out leaving 1 4 seam allowance Clip curves and corners where appropriate Turn fabric right sides out this forces the seam allowance to the wrong side Starch and press dry 3 times Pull fabric apart and you have an opening with the seams pressed to the wrong side 4 v ASYMMETRICAL MOTIFS Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C or Freehand Embroidery Foot 24 if stitching this with the feed dog lowered Place a facing fabric right side down on the foreground fabric Draw the desired shape on the wrong side of the facing fabric sew along the drawn shape Cut away the fabric from inside the shape leaving 1 seam allowance inside the shape Push the facing fabric through the opening to the wrong side of the foreground fabric press AT
57. f fabric detail swirl from the Library and send to Palette by clicking on the To Palette button at the bottom of the Layout menu Foundation piecing is especially helpful for patterns that have intricate designs and or multiple points such as the star block shown here Select the fabric for the heart shape select the Draw Appliqu tool Appliqu Create fabric appliqu shapes for your next project Click to set boundary around the heart right clicks set curves left clicks set cor ners backspace erases the last point set When the first boundary is complete press Enter Press Enter again to complete the shape Select the heart appliqu send backwards Note When creating appliqu s in BERNINA Quilter you are designing appliqu patterns for stitching by hand or by sewing machine not embroidered appliqu s If you wish to add embroidered appliqu s to your quilt top digitize them in Designer Plus and insert the file as you would any other embroidery design For more information refer to Software Owner s Manual Chapter 40 BERNINA Quilter Editing Create appliqu pieces for the left flower and swirl select fabric for the flower center select the Draw Appliqu tool and click points to set the boundary Repeat for outer Creating Appliqu s Open the Quilter program Open the Quilt Layout dialog box Select Rectangular flower section and leaves Note Once appliqu shapes have been created they may
58. file Square in a square 5 block Hoop a layer of tear away stabilizer Insert E Quilt Layout E Show All E Load Picture the Show All icon Select the Load Picture icon from a fresh needle into machine NO thread in the needle or bobbin Stitch colors 1 cutting line and 2 fabric placement lines Note Turn off upper and lower thread sensors the Edit toolbar From Samples 3 select tulip E Object Properties tai Draw Applique Thread machine with 60 weight cotton thread in the needle and bobbin Place a AIIA Caner heart bmp square of fabric over the marked center segment Send Backwards Open amp e Stitch color 3 Carefully trim excess fabric leaving allowance El Group Select the E Copy a Paste E Mirror Horizontal graphic Left click on one of the corner control points drag the point diagonally to rescale the graphic to fit the block While the graphic is selected hold down the Ctrl key select the block and click the Align Centers icon Position fabric for segment 2 right sides together with segment 1 placing seam allowance over the marked line Stitch Repeat for segment 3 Remove hoop from machine but do not remove fabric from hoop Flip segments open trim seam allowances press Repeat for all remaining segments Remove completely pieced block from hoop Press block trim along outside markings Select 5 fabrics background heart flower flower center lea
59. for remaining piping strip Position the finished piping to the right and left sides of the smocked center panel Serge the piping to the pillow center using the Multi Purpose Foot to allow the ridge in the filler cord to ride smoothly KS Ex underneath the presser foot Sa 4 0 2 Serge seam the pillow left and i i right fronts to the piped sides of 1 i ue yA the smocked center using the E mm prm Multi Purpose Foot Note It is A e EN 1 also possible to stitch the e LP IN piping and seam on the M assert e EE Il side panels simultaneously x qt n DULL Serge seam the completed a v 3 pillow front to the pillow back leaving an opening at one short s ENS side Turn the pillow right sides out Insert the pillow form into the pillow through the opening Slipstitch the opening closed Cut the brush fringe in half Using a sewing machine sew the trim to both the front and back side edges for a lush full look Compressing the pillow form within the pillow as you stitch will allow you to sew the trim onto a pillow that is already stuffed For more fun gt serger techniques QUE see Creative h c m c E Tar cA E Serging A 5 ERGHY a Comphrehensive Ds Guide by Nancy 7 ptt Bednar and Anne i A van der Kley tee Available from mis d 1 s al 1 EL 3 d Greet sire gly Y SterlingPublishing in Spring 2005 Using the BERNINA Quilte
60. ght a wide range of sewing classes including quilting heirloom and embellishment 0 CINDY MICHAELS Before becoming a BERNINA Educator Cindy worked for 12 years for a BERNINA store in Southern California as a teacher and sales person both in store and at fairs home shows and quilt and craft seminars PAT J ENNINGS A BERNINA Educator Pat was part of the original artista sewing embroidery development team and now directs the artista 200 Portal and the myartista section of www berninausa com JILL DANKLEFSEN Jill s exquisite work with manipulating decorative stitches playing with them changing them creating texture with them is one of her specialties as a BERNINA Educator HANS HERZOG The Technical Education Manager for BERNINA of America Inc Hans creates technical education material for BERNINA dealers He is in close contact with the factory in his homeland Switzerland FAITH REYNOLDS i t As a BERNINA Educator Faith teaches national classes for rl both dealers and consumers One of her favorite topics is the Embroidery featured on the cover use of the BERNINA Embroidery Software designed by Faith Reynolds NANCY BEDNAR Nancy is a BERNINA Educator and is co author of The Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques Her new book Creative Serging A Comprehensive Guide is due for release Spring of 2005 from BERNINA GAYLE HILLERT ONE OF THE J OY
61. gin One day while wandering a quilt show found the Fairfield Fashion Show display and thought Wow I d like to do that Unfortunately discovered that it was the last year of the Fairfield Show However got lucky BERNINA picked up t F ji the show sent in a portfolio of the showpieces d had created in the past for review A few months later received a letter that had 7 been chosen as one of the 50 designers to participate in the new show And then won The Cr me de la Cr me Award and a top of the line BERNINA and software worth 6 500 7 have always enjoyed being wildly creative and now my BERNINA affords me a pride in workmanship never dreamed possible www kaylakennington com MN fe s www epbdolls com W gets to make art Anybody who wants to Being creative is a common experience for everyone Don t worry about content the process will take you somewhere and is valuable in and of itself If you can t see what you want in your head you re still looking for something to reproduce You may need to look for inspiration in magazines art books craft books nature whatever helps define the ideas in your head and give you a vision of what you want to create If you have a vision and see it in your head don t do as some artists do start creating and if the result doesn t match what is in their heads it is put aside and judged unacceptable You may
62. he Object Properties dialog box From the General tab change the Width and Height to 4596 Click OK Select Mirror Image Vertical then left dick once on the Rotate tool Position the design in the upper left corner of the wreath Select Edit gt Duplicate Rotate CCW twice two right clicks move the duplicate to the lower left corner Select Edit gt Duplicate Rotate CCW twice move the duplicate to the lower right corner Select Edit gt Duplicate Rotate CCW twice move the duplicate to the upper right corner Tip When positioning the corners turn off Auto Centering and turn on the grid to define the edges of a square Change the Color Sequence Open Color Film select the blue color chip From the Color Status Bar select C1 Close Color Film Select Artistic View to preview the design Send the design to the embroidery machine by direct connect or by saving the design to a Personal Design card or a CD SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Toolbox The following tools of BERNINA V4 Designer Plus Embroidery Software are used to create the design for the pillow shown in the photograph Zoom Out ete v Closed Curve Mirror Image Vertical Rotate Color Film 60 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Embroider the Pillow Top Adhere the batting to the back of the pillow fabric with temporary spray adhesive Press from the right side Mark the center of the square by drawing lines along both
63. he wedge ruler cut the pieced outer border strips into triangular pieces Reassemble wedges placing pieces ran domly to form one long patchwork outer border piece Cut into four 61 2 x 83 rectangles Stitch a 4 patch block to each end of two of the strips Stitch the side borders to the center block then attach the upper and lower borders with cornerstones T t ah PTT ER Using temporary spray adhesive bond the batting to the wrong side of the pieced top Couch narrow metallic cord or fiber of your choice between the wedges of the outer border and along the inner edge of the inner border Superior Razzle Dazzle used on the sample Attach Freemotion Couching Foot 43 available late 2005 to the machine Couch fiber of your choice in an all over pattern as desired to the 4 patch corner blocks Couch a heavy yarn cord over the main seams of the wall hanging creating a tic tac toe effect G G G Finishing When embellishing is complete trim top batting to 19 x 19 Place the backing wrong side up and center the pieced top bat ting on it use spray adhesive to secure Trim backing so that 1 extends beyond each edge Fold the backing fabric to the front twice to form the binding first fold raw edge of backing to raw edge of batting second fold wrap to front of quilt mitering the corners Stitch in place using Walking Foot 50 and a blanket stitch Optional Embellishments fo
64. idery Foot 56 to machine Thread needle and insert bobbin with sewing thread Sew on traced lines around appliqu with a straight stitch Trim around the outside of appliqu motif leaving a Y seam allowance cut slit in center of Aqua Film Clip curves and points if applicable Turn right side out smooth curves and push out corners Place right side up on ironing surface and press with a warm iron The Aqua Film will draw up and pull the stitching to the wrong side Remove excess Aqua Film from center back of appliqu leaving the sides glued down Pin or baste with temporary spray adhesive to hold the appliqu in place on background fabric Set the machine for a blindstitch using the settings on the previous page Sew slowly around the finished edges of appliqu shapes using the Free Hand Sewing system knee activated presser foot lifter to maneuver curves and corners The straight part of the stitch should fall just outside the appliqu shape with the wide part barely biting into the shape to secure it invisibly Forcing a bite is essential on corners or edges that need an extra stitch Use Pattern Begin to force a bite Sew a test to see if stabilizer is necessary If needed place Tear Away stabilizer on the wrong side of the area to which the appliqu will be stitched This stabilizer will be removed after the stitching is complete Appliqu pieces are placed next to each other with little or no overlap
65. ient thread to withstand the wear and tear that your project will have to bear If you are creating a wall hanging lighter stitches can be used If the project is one that will be used frequently then the edge should be covered with a heavier stitch The intricacy of a shape will also influence your stitch decision A simple shape such as a circle or square can be stitched around easily with an intricate stitch that involves lots of motion A more detailed or curvilinear shape such as a teddy bear that has many nooks and crannies would require something simple such as a satin or blanket stitch COUCHING Couching defines the act of applying a yarn or cord to fabric with a stitch Creative presser feet make this task easy and enjoyable Each foot has a specified purpose yielding a different effect see page 37 Pick a foot and a cord that works with it Select a decorative thread and a decorative stitch Let your imagination soar as you sew around the appliqu shape both inside and outside of the appliqu stitches i SPECIAL m j DIMENSIONAL APPLIQUE INVISIBLE APPLIQUE 33 THROUGH THE NEEDLE BLANKET STITCH APPLIQUE SATIN STITCH APPLIQUE 36 THROUGH THE NEEDLE The centerpiece of this colorful mini quilt features the artwork of elinor peace bailey known for her fun spirit and unique dolls The rich fairi
66. im through the manual and now what The following practical guidelines will start you on the path to fulfilling your embroidery dreams BY JENNIFER GIGAS Refer to owner s manual Chapters 11 12 The most efficient way to get to where you are going is by following a well thought out plan The better the map the fewer detours you will have to make Answering the following questions is the first step in planning your digitizing path What am starting with clip art fabric a drawing What do envision as the final result Where will be using the finished design How large does it need to be On what kind of fabric will it be stitched What tools should use to get there A What am I Starting With Note Be sure to follow all copyright rules and regulations when selecting your artwork If in doubt ask As a general rule the cleaner the artwork the easier it will be to digitize Eliminate excessive detailing that will not translate well into embroidery stitches Place a sheet of tracing paper over complex artwork and trace only the elements needed When working with artwork from fabric you may wish to photocopy the artwork before tracing If unsure about the amount of detailing to remove spend some time looking at professionally digitized designs SPECIAL CLA Regardless of the origin of the artwork hand drawn or clip art for example a graphi
67. ined with any model of sewing machine A good camera ink jet printer and scanner S oft ware BERNINA Designer Plus Software v4 with Auto A ppliqu Explorations S oft ware Graphics program such as Paint S hop Pro Adobe PhotoShop Elements a photo editing program with lots of tools for creating special effects and touching up photos A variety of decorative threads Sewing tools such as scissors needles rotary cutter rulers and mat Spray adhesives both temporary and permanent Stabilizers for paper and fabric Fusible web and fusible fleece for quilted pages Scrapbooking paper Fabrics of choice light to medium weight in whit e beige and pastel colors Bubble J et Set 2000 Books and magazines for reference and Inspiration Through the Needle magazine Paper and Embroidery magazine Fabri S crapping by Cindy Losekamp Quilted Scrapbooks from Memory Makers magazine Memory Quilts in the Making from Leisure Arts Fabric Photo Play by J Wood 39 40 THROUGH THE NEEDLE BY HANS HERZOG Even sewing machines need a little TLC every once in a while Lint build up in the hook and feed dog area as well as between the top tension disks can cause excessive wear noise and tension issues Clean and oil your machine frequently and your machine will reward you with years of trouble free operation Note BERNINA machines have either an oscillating hook system or a rotary hook syst
68. ing from the center toward the sides sew paral lel rows of stitching aligning the guide with the previously stitched lines GRID QUILTING Similar to channel quilting but a second set of perpendicular lines creates squares rectangles or diamonds Sew the first set of lines as for channel quilting Mark the centerline for the second set of lines stitch as for channel quilting positioning the Walking Foot guide as desired OUTLINE QUILTING Give definition to pieced printed or appliqu d motifs by adding a machine fed or freemotion stitched outline Machine Fed Use Walking Foot 50 and a straight or handlook quilting stitch For a closely spaced outline adjust needle position to one side and use edge of foot as a guide For larger spacing attach a seam guide Stitch around shapes as desired Freemotion Use Freemotion Quilting Foot 29 29C a straight stitch and lowered feed dog Stitch around or inside shapes as desired using outer edge of foot as a guide FREEMOTION STITCHING ECHO QUILTING Freedom to create and place stitches where you want them Similar to outline quilting Drop feed dog and select a straight stitch Insert a Quilting needle and thread needle but with multiple lines and bobbin with 50 weight cotton thread Attach Freemotion Quilting Foot 29 29C creating an effect like that made by a stone thrown into a pond Prepare a small practice piece about 18 x 18 with top bat
69. ing stitches and sew several straight stitches on the inside of the appliqu stitches 27 28 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Place Tear Away stabilizer on the wrong side of the area to which the appliqu will be stitched This stabilizer will be removed after the stitching is complete Always test using the project fabric to determine the settings needed for the perfect satin stitch Thicker threads 30 weight cotton or rayon require a longer stitch length Finer threads 60 weight cotton or 40 weight rayon require a shorter stitch length Variation Corded Appliqu Similar to satin stitch appliqu the stitch is formed over a cord to give it a defined raised look an excellent way to reinforce the edges of the appliqu shape Use the same general settings as satin stitch appliqu with Embroidery Foot 6 or Clear Embroidery Foot 39 Place a narrow cord such as perle cotton or Pearl Crown Rayon through the hole in the center of the foot Stitch around the shapes covering the raw edges with the cord and satin stitching BLANKET STITCH APPLIQU This open stitch is used to give a homespun or primitive look to appliqu shapes should be fused or bonded in place before stitching them to the background Settings amp Supplies STITCH Blanket Stitch STITCH LENGTH A longer stitch length 4mm 5mm than the preprogrammed setting STITCH WIDTH A longer stitch width 4mm 5mm than the preprogramme
70. irst and middle initial letters Change the color using the color drop down menu Change the color of the last initial if desired THROUGH THE NEEDLE GET STARTED Open the BERNINA Designer Plus Embroidery Software select Samples 3 Folder Open Flower and Vine ART Select from the drop down menu File Save As and name the design Flowers amp Vine LargeMaster ART CREATE A TOO LARGE DESIGN FOR THIS EXERCISE Select the entire design by using the keyboard shortcut CTRL A Rotate the design 90 counterclockwise by right clicking two times on the Rotate Tool With the design still selected open the Object Properties dialogue box Select the General tab Change the Width to 165 and the Height to 165 and click OK Click on the Show All icon to view the entire design Right click on the Hoop icon select the artista 255 x 245 Oval w X Y Lines lines From the same screen select position Manual click OK Use the arrow keys on the keyboard to move design so that the top part will fit in the embroidery space of your hoop See Picture 1 Using the Polygon Select tool select the objects that fit in the embroidery space See Picture 2 Click on the Group Tool to group all of these objects together Save the design You can visually determine that the remainder of the design except for the long satin stitched line will fit in the embroidery space for the second hooping
71. irst create a quilt sandwich a layer of batting between the quilt top and backing a Cut the backing fabric a few inches larger than the top allowing for some shrinkage during the quilting process Cut the batting the same size as the backing Place the backing right side down on a flat surface use masking tape to keep the backing flat and smooth Layer the batting on top of the backing smoothing it to remove any wrinkles Center the quilt top right side up on the batting making sure that the batting and backing extend beyond all sides of the top Baste the layers of the quilt together using a machine basting stitch quilters safety pins or temporary fabric adhesive spray also called quilt basting spray Create a large flat area around the machine to support the weight and bulk of the quilt This helps prevent distortion of stitches that can be caused by the quilt pulling away from the machine For a small wall quilt it may only be necessary to attach a slide on tray or table or lower the machine into a cabinet For a large quilt consider setting a table behind and or to the left of the machine Large projects can be rolled along one side so that quilting can begin at the center of the project Secure with quilt clamps or bicycle clips Note An alternative technique is to loosely accordion fold one side of the quilt to get it under the needle stopping as you stitch to move and maneuver the bulk GH THE NEEDLE
72. isfaction Take a tip from some nationally known quilting experts award winners authors and designers My best tip for improving the overall appearance of the finished quilt is to hand baste it with water soluble thread further baste by machine to anchor the straight lines in the top by stitching in the ditch with water soluble thread Ricky Tims If I only could tell you one thing about machine quilting it would be that you must be comfortably in control of all three layers of the quilt sandwich and the best way to accomplish this is to use a Flynn Multi Frame when you machine quilt John Flynn Be sure you are sitting high enough to be comfortable while you are quilting Think about elementary school penmanship fluid motions and control Holice Turnbow quilt using the fluff and stuff method rather than rolling the quilt into a tight roll The quilt needs freedom to move under the needle Paula Reid Never make a quilt to match an ugly carpet and A quilt won t ever be finished if you don t work on it Marianne Fons Don t forget to breathe Relax while quilting remember this is supposed to be fun Laura Cater Woods Needles lose their points quickly and are not the place to pinch pennies When it comes to needles if in doubt throw it away Sharon Schamber With visions of original embroidery designs dancing through your imagination you open your Designer Plus embroidery software sk
73. itch and C1 Digitize all lines on block Select the lines select Blackwork Run Color 1 establishes the fabric placement lines when the block is embroidered Select the Open Curve tool single stitch and C2 Digitize the stitching line around segment 1 Select C3 digitize the stitching line between segment 1 and top segment 2 Select CA digitize the stitching line between 1 and bottom segment 3 Continue changing thread colors and digitizing the stitching lines in the same order they would be traditionally sewn using numbers on the graphic as a guide 41 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Select All select Group Select the Rectangle tool Outline Single C20 Digitize a square around the graphic Tip Hold down the control key to draw a perfect square Select the square open the Object Properties box and change the height and width to 5 5 Select All gt Align Centers Click away to deselect Select the grouped portion of the design Ungroup Select All Arrange Sequence by Color When the dialog box opens move C20 to 2 the first position 9 6 Select Picture Tab Delete the graphic Save design as Square in a square 5 block format one block 5 1 4 Send to embroidery machine by direct link Tools and icons across and down Personal Design Card or CD used for this 10 square Add a _ technique 2 mitered border 7 3 Stitching the Block LJ Quilter Program Click OK Select Select the design
74. ith cross hairs for easy visualization of the needle position great for outline and echo quilting QUILTING WITH MACHINE EMBROIDERY With the ever growing popularity of the home embroidery machine it was inevitable that machine embroidered techniques would be added to the list of stitching methods used to create quilts Whether one selects from the nearly infinite number of embroidery designs available for purchase or dig itizes her own designs using a computer and embroidery software there are many ways to incorporate embroidery into quilt designs Embroidered motifs can create the focal point of each block and set the tone or theme for the quilt They can embellish blocks or be used as quilting to secure the layers together The in the hoop quilting method described here is appropriate for all skill levels and eliminates many of the obstacles that may occur when blending quilting and embroidery techniques Quilting stitches secure the layers of the quilt together top batting and backing outline motifs are often used to accent open areas of the quilt The machine embroidered decorative quilting is stitched through the top of the quilt and batting only This eliminates any thread tension issues on the back and also takes care of any aesthetic issues with thread tie offs as they are hidden when the backing fabric is added to the quilt Leaving the tension tight on the bottom causes the outline designs to puff up a bit more tha
75. le it then duplicates this buttonhole as many times as needed The artista machines can save any style buttonhole in a variety of lengths Corded Buttonholes Buttonholes stitched over cord offer an option for very oS heavy fabrics as well as a way to add stability to buttonholes on knit fabrics High points of wear and stress can also benefit from a corded buttonhole The cord gives the buttonhole a more pronounced look so it is also a good choice when using buttonholes as a design element or a focal point of a garment This technique can be applied to any rectangular buttonhole Supplies Settings Match needles to fabric slightly loosen needle tension and use a fine cord such as perle cotton 8 crochet cord embroidery floss or gimp cord as a filler An all purpose polyester thread in the needle and bobbin offers stability and strength as does silk finish cotton BERNINA buttonhole feet are designed to hold a looped cord in position during the stitching process To position the cord put the needle down in the fabric at the exact start of the buttonhole and raise the presser foot Hook the center of the cord over the hook at the back of the foot and pull the ends to the front of your machine under the foot Secure the tails on either side of the knob at the center front of the foot The loop of the cord should be placed at the end that will take the most stress usually the upper end of the buttonhole or the one neares
76. le and unique Scrapbook pages you ll need specific tools and products to meet your scrapping goals Q Paper or fabric A Either or a combination of the two Select papers with a high fiber content Dense handmade papers work well also those with extra text ure created by threads leaves or seeds as long as these fibers are not too large or too stiff To sew on paper first try some of the decorative stitches on your sewing machine Be careful in your selection and remember that heavy satin stitches may tear the paper and destroy your design Always back the paper with Stabilizer such as OESD Ultra Clean and Tear or Stabil Stick to give the stitches a solid foundation Change needles often as sewing through paper will dull them quickly Photocopy or scan and print your photos 0 0 Tuis STRIKING PAGE STARTS WITH A RICHLY TEXTURED PAPER AND A wow PHOTO COMMEMORATING AN IMPORTANT LIFE EVENT TRANSFER THE PHOTO TO FABRIC ENLARGING OR REDUCING TO FIT THE PAGE ARRANGE ON THE PAGE AS DESIRED SELECT A DECORATIVE STITCH THAT SEWS FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND SEW THE FABRIC PHOTO TO THE PAGE ADD THE LETTERING BY HOOPING AQUA FILM AND ORGANDY EMBROIDER THE TITLES UNHOOP AND TRIM TO FIT THE SPACE ON THE PAGE SECURE BY STITCHING WITH INVISIBLE THREAD OR FABRIC ADHESIVE o black and white or color as desired so that the originals are not damaged accidentally Use decorative stitches to create borders and or to
77. le magazine patterns included from Make it Easy BERNINA of America Inc Edges amp Finishes in Mary Ann s Purse Handle With Style Machine Embroidery from Mary Ann Sheppard from Indygo J unction Inc by Valerie Campbell Harding If A Bra Can Be A Purse Belle Armoire Art to Wear The Hip Handbag Book by Vicki Tracy Megens by Sheri Haab Simply Sensational Bags Chic amp Easy Beading by Linda McGehee by Alice Korach Embroidered Bags amp Purses from Krause Publications 57 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Tassels Trims and Stellar Stitehes BY JENNIFER GIGAS Supplies Needed Special design collection ge with traditional quilting techniques to Trims book Combine machine embroidery BERNINA V4 Designer Plus O Snare create a lovely pillow top Or take the Isacord embroidery thread in project further using this as the desired color 1 i Lightweight bobbin thread first block of an elegant quilt Temporary spray adhesive BSR BERNINA GStitch Regulator or Freemotion Prepare the Design Embroidery Foot 24 Open Designer Plus software insert Tassels and Trims CD into CDRom 1 gear Oey Foot 39 drive Select File gt Open Click on the Look In drop down arrow locate Straight stitch plate the CD drive usually the D drive Select design 10 ART open e Three 7 2 buttons Rotary cutter and mat Click twice on the Zoom Out tool Choose the Select Object tool D
78. n 1968 book Koos Couture and Collage by moved to New York where Linda Teufel we see jackets coats and he sewed during the night dresses created using this signature and sold his creations technique We design our own during the day creations but then wonder He opened his own store What goes with wearable art in the mid 70s and became The answer More art quite popular with the i Hollywood crowd His designs were refreshing and unique artfully designed garments EET a collage of fabrics His collage garments remain his signature Koos van den Akker of In buying materials to create a collage such as in the Koos inspired jacket on page 55 we generally buy too many fabrics and much too much yardage What better 7 M sSOCppieces With way to use the excess B j j the renewed than by creating garments B 3 I popularity d and accessories to Nu FN patchwork complete the look Skirts S We 1 in clothing pants hats bags shoes and i A his style is a jewelry all can be made with B IE o0 refreshing way to the wonderful sewing machines EI P incorporate a collage of tools accessories and products ts fabrics into fashion available to us today This simple straight skirt made from the leftover lavender suede cloth is a perfect companion for the jacket Using some of the bias binding leftover from the Hong Kong trim on the jacket and Edgestitch
79. n if the tension were balanced Once the decorative quilting is completed the backing is spray basted in place Utility quilting stitches such as channel ditch and grid quilting are sewn through all three layers as described on the previous pages This visually balances the decorative quilting and adds texture to the back of the quilt Hooping and Stabilizing For the best results when embroidering the project must be hooped and stabilized appropriately Outline quilt designs are very light making water soluble stabilizer the perfect choice The water soluble stabilizer rinses completely away leaving the quilt soft and stabilizer free To hoop the quilt the screw on the outer ring is loosened significantly the quilt is placed over the outer ring then the inner ring is gently pushed into the outer ring Forcing the inner ring may distort the seam lines on the quilt Tip Use a quilt bast ing spray to temporarily bond all layers of the quilt together This eliminates any shifting of the layers during the embroidery process As an alternative for small designs a layer of water soluble stabilizer is hooped sprayed with temporary adhesive then the quilt is affixed to the hoop For large or intricate designs hooping is the best option When using the adhesive method the quilt is basted to the hooped stabilizer for additional stability The basting stitches are removed when the quilting is complete Tip Create a basting file using your emb
80. ngth on the Attach Free Motion Couching Foot 43 and using a grey black yarn create the smoke satin stitches to emerging from chimney prevent the perforation of your paper Attach Button Sew On Foot 18 add buttons for flowers in the grass and a doorknob on the door Add lettering of your choice and be sure to leave space for journaling On this sample the lettering was embroidered on a sandwich of 2 layers of OESD Aqua Film a water soluble stabilizer with a layer of polyester organdy between Hoop the 3 layers and embroider the words of your choice Trim and adhere to your page in place with 404 spray adhesive Scrapbook Sewing Tips Decrease width and increase length to sew detailed areas so that stitches do not overpower and or perforate the paper Change needle often as sewing on paper dulls needles points more quickly Adjust size of window to your photos or scan pictures and in a drawing program on your PC resize them and print out on quality photo paper Be sure to leave a space for Journaling The journaling on this sample will be written between the door and windows EDITION THROUGH THE NEEDLE Tp and Bryjod BY CINDY MICHAELS Designing and creating new fashions and fabrics using collage and couture techniques is all part of the popular Koos style inspired by du iss bx ind apprenticed at Christian designer Koos van den Akker In the Dior in Paris and i
81. o the top of the design select it cut then paste The letter is now in front of the flower and will be the last thing embroidered Send the monogram to the embroidery machine for stitching THE 3 LETTER MONOGRAM To maintain the maximum editing capabilities each of the letters for the monogram will be created individually Text entered at one time becomes one object changes made to one letter affect all of the text in that object Send to the embroidery machine for stitching CREATIVE TOUCHES Create new looks for your monograms by experimenting with the size and placement of Press the letter A on the keyboard This opens e the first two initials the lettering Object Properties dialog box From here lettering style size justifica tion and baselines may be selected Add small embroidery elements to a monogram for an embellished look Choose King Charles from the alphabet drop down menu Mirror image letters experiment with rotation and combine Enter your first initial in the dialog box Press OK monograms to create all over patterns Click on the design area to generate the lettering object Click away to deselect Repeat for your last initial Repeat for middle initial Select the last letter initial increase the size of the letter by clicking and drag ging on the sizing handles Experiment with independent height and width adjustments Hold down the Control key and select the f
82. ods and perhaps learn ways to improve their skills or be inspired to try something new The pages that follow include information on basic appliqu techniques tools and supplies and additional appliqu embellishment options Use those that appeal to you and explore the art of appliqu When using appliqu patterns you will usually trace or re draw them to create pieces that can be cut from differ ent fabrics to build your finished picture Use the follow ing tips to successfully trace and cut your appliqu shapes Which Way Do I Go To avoid creating an appliqu which is a mirror image of the original pattern trace the appliqu pieces from the wrong side IF You are tracing onto the paper side of fusible web The pattern piece is to be positioned on the wrong side 24 of appliqu fabric for cutting The pattern s creator hasn t already reversed the image for you read the pattern instruction sheet for additional tracing information You are using a reverse or faced appliqu method Draw your pattern using the Nifty Notions Pentel Pencil and Lead 7843 makes a very fine line and easily washes off fabric Which Side Am I On The width of a line doesn t seem very critical but it can make a difference in the size of your appliqu pieces In general appliqu pieces with turned under edges should be traced at the outer edge of the pattern line while raw edged shapes should be traced along
83. on top to prevent any size distortion Buttonhole Leveler The BERNINA Buttonhole Leveler is another aid in keeping the foot even and level so that the beads of the buttonhole will form perfectly and the fabric will feed consistently and evenly This accessory is ideal for fabrics that are uneven decorative buttonholes with ease and perfection generate buttonholes in the software and add decorative pattern run stitches to them Blackwork borders and corner motifs also add dimension and characteristic to buttonholes And perfection every time napped or nubby but not necessarily bulky or thick Buttonhole Cutter and Block This unique tool offers a clean cut for opening but tonholes and eliminates the risk of cutting through the end of the buttonhole that seam rippers and scissors invite To use simply place the block on a stable surface and posi tion the buttonhole over the block Place the blade of the cutter in the center of the buttonhole and press down The beveled edges of the blade help prevent accidental cutting of the beads of the buttonhole Zz 2 lu m w zl ra lt gt ra Quilting is the stitching that keeps all the layers backing batting and quilt top together The stitched design can be simple or fancy subtle or eye catching enhancing the elements of the quilt top or ignoring them completely PREPARATION To prepare your project for quilting f
84. positioning Select the appropriate hoop for your machine in this case artista 255 x 145 Oval w XY Lines was selected for use with the 200E and 185E Keep the default hoop setting on Automatic Centering Select the design and make a copy Copy and Paste Rotate the copy 90 clockwise and move it below the first design Copy and Paste the first two designs and rotate 180 Select Show All Use the arrow keys to move the copies to the opposite side of the original designs the basket Add a Reference Line Select the second color Using the Measure tool in the software View Measure measure up 0 5 from the center of the XY axis hoop center Using the Open Curve tool and a single outline stitch digitize a small line starting 0 5 from the center and ending at the edge of Open Color Film and move the box containing the line to the beginning of the design Every time you sew the design you will measure up from the center of the fabric and the needle should be over the center vertical line 0 5 up from the XY axis on the fabric Delete the lower two designs and the top left design You will then have only one basket and one reference line You will stitch this design four times rotating the hoop 90 before each stitching From the drop down menu select Arrange gt Start and End Select the start point to be the First Stitch in the design click OK Save the design as Basket Hoop It AIL ART
85. proves the fabric feed when sewing buttonholes in heavy or It is particu larly effective with chenille felted wool polar fleece and fused reversible wools The Buttonhole Compensation Plate can only be used with the Automatic Buttonhole Feet 3A 3C It fits the foot much like a Ski boot fits a binding The application of the Compensation Plate to the foot is simplified when the FHS Free Hand System is used or the feed dog dropped to obtain maximum space between the presser foot and the stitch plate The procedure is quite simple select the desired buttonhole and attach the foot to bulky fabrics simply by selecting the Arrange menu and choosing the Add Buttonhole feature the machine Slide the fabric between the two plates hook the attachment to the back of the foot then attach it to the whole foot by turning it to the right Sew the buttonhole as usual the Compensation Plate supports the feed of difficult uneven or thick fabrics and allows for even and perfect button hole beads When using fabrics that are not as thick it is possible to attach the Buttonhole Compensation Plate to the presser foot first then push the fabric layers between the two plates Napped and or fuzzy fabrics respond well when a swatch of water soluble stabilizer such as Aqua Film is placed on top of the fabric under the foot As mentioned previously the stitches will not sink into the textured areas of fabric but remain
86. r software proor m 0 design i str 4pbook pages BY LYN LACKEY Creating this homey Ge na Started Open BERNINA artista 4 0 Software ll THE NEEDLE EL F X C P e L c a scrapbook page using i the BERNINA Quilter Left click on the Quilter Program Icon to open Quilter Program LA y Left click on Quilt Layout Icon and create the scrapbook page EB gives you a visual Blocks across 1 blocks down 1 layout to follow when Width and Height 12 square which is standard size of a scrapbook page but you can customize to desired width and height if not using standard putting together the scrapbook pages paper page Left Click OK and return to Quilter Screen 2 BERNINA Quilter is a Left click on the Show All icon so that the block is large enough to work with easily Left click on Library to choose the block design el included with all levels Open the Block Menu choices V4 of the BERNINA Left click on icon Buildings blocks Left click on house 8 Embroidery Software Click on the 12 block send the block design your block At this point you can play with color and develop a visual display of the colors to be used on the page 52 SPECIAL CL Virtual Photo Layout pre On tool bar left click File lt load picture TE L Select your picture file may be my documents my pictures depending IE
87. r the Fairy Add some glamour to the fairy artwork by playing dress up with beads buttons stitches etc Try some of the following Stitch fibers over the fairy s hair to add dimension and style top with a bow or button barrette Add quilting to the fairy wings by straight stitching the outline and then filling in with stitched lines loosely following the drawing Stitch small seed beads on the eyes of the fairies Stitch small beads on the neck of the faires to simulate a necklace and on the ears for earrings Stipple quilt the background around the fairies to make them stand out Attach crystals and jewels to the fairies clothing using the EZ Glitzer SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Add texture depth and dimension to fabric using the great yams and heavy cord available today Using simple couching techniques and accessories deco rating fabric with additional texture couldn t be easier The most difficult choice is which fun yam or cord to use first there are so many to choose from Couching is a process in which thick threads yarns or other decorative notions such as beads ribbon and sequins are placed on the fabric surface and secured by stitching them in place usually with a zigzag or decorative stitch Couched embellishments can be applied at any step of the creative process during the strip piecing process after the strips have been cut and reassembled in other words couched in the
88. r will be removed after the stitching is complete Stitch length distance between the blanket stitches e Stitch width the length of the blanket stitch finger Engage mirror image if needed All pivoting is with the needle on the outside edge of the fabric piece INVISIBLE APPLIQUE Simulating hand sewn stitching this method requires the appliqu shape to have finished edges which are then stitched to the background using a blindstitch and invisible thread Settings amp Supplies STITCH Blindstitch Blind Hem Stitch STITCH LENGTH 1mm or less depending on fabric STITCH WIDTH 0 8 1mm catch about 2 threads of fabric only NEEDLE POSITION Center to far right depending on foot selection PRESSER FOOT Embroidery Foot 6 Open Embroidery Foot 20 20C Clear Embroidery Foot 39 Edgestitch Foot 10 THREAD Needle Monofilament thread clear or smoke Bobbin 60 2 Mettler machine embroidery cotton thread NEEDLE Size 60 8 or 70 10 sharp needle needle holes should not be visible in finished product TENSION Reduced lower number Technique Create faced applique shapes using the method below Trace desired shape onto Aqua Film with an indelible marker Pin Aqua Film to right side of appliqu fabric Take care to keep the Aqua Film right side up Writing the letter P on the Aqua Film will make it easier to keep the pattern piece oriented correctly Attach Non Stick Open Embro
89. raw a bounding i Nifty Notions Cut for the box around the entire motif click on the Group Cure 14 x 14 Ruler icon or use the Ctrl G keyboard shortcut to 16 square of fabric group the motif 16 square of batting 65 of decorator trim Create the Tasseled Wreath Select the Wreath tool use the n Wreath Points arrow to change the db m di number of spokes to 4 Hold down A P the Control key this will position the m TA duplicates at 45 angles arrange the AE ti i duplicates as shown in the photo and left click on the screen to set them i into position Release the Ctrl key and ees T dick away from the motif to deselect b Select the motif at the 6 00 position Hold down the Control key and select the motif at the 3 00 position Continue holding down the Control key while selecting the motif at the 12 00 position then the motif at the 9 00 position Select Arrange gt Sequence As Selected Create the Stippled Center Select the Closed Curve tool and Step Fill Using right mouse clicks manually digitize a cirde inside the wreath Fill the wreath with stipple quilting Select the filled circle Select the Stipple tool when the dialog box appears dick OK Add the Outline Quilting Select File gt Insert Design Select MyDesigns gt Holice Turnbow Stencil Quilt Designs gt HT102 dick Open While the outline quilting design is selected group it then right click to open t
90. re than expected am absolutely in love with BERNINA Thank you for showing me BERNINA heaven Jennifer Chin The fashion show was wonderful It was a learning experience to see the garments up close was happy that the classes were not all for quilting or crafts and contained information and techniques for garment sewers Unknown usable class projects to take home which taught appropriate skills Beth Engbrecht This year s retreat will feature two of the most creative designers teachers we know Kayla Kennington a wearable art designer and a 2 time winner of the BERNINA Fashion Show and elinor peace bailey a truly talented artist and doll maker Visit the BERNINA web site www berninausa com to register Hope to see you there COME TO CLASS Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion Huntsville AL February 6 13 2005 www marthapullen com Mid Atlantic Quilt Festival Hampton VA February 24 27 2005 www quiltfest com Sewing and Stitchery Expo Puyallup WA March 3 6 2005 www sewexpo com e Quilter s Heritage Celebration Lancaster PA March 3 April 3 2005 www ghconline com National Quilting Association Columbus OH June 16 18 2005 www nqaquilts org Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion and Kids School Huntsville AL J uly 17 24 2005 www marthapullen com e BERNINA Creativity Retreat Lisle IL August 25 28 2005 www berninausa com Pennsylvania National Quilt Extravaganza F
91. renowned designer Koos van den Akker Tassels Trims and Stellar Stitches This elegant pillow features decorative quilting stitches and a beautiful embroidery design from the special Tassels and Trims design collection included with the Tasse s and Trims book Managing Editor Creative Director Susan Beck Senior Editor Art Director Jo Leichte Through The Needle is published quarterly by BERNINA of America Inc for machine stitchers and embroiderers of all types and all skill levels No portion of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission of the publisher BERNINA of America Inc 3702 Prairie Lake Court Aurora IL 60504 Phone 630 978 2500 Website www berninausa com E mail throughtheneedle berninausa com For subscription information contact Quilter s Resource P O Box 148850 Chicago IL 60614 8850 Printed in the U S A NI ontributors MARLIS BENNETT As an Education Consultant for BERNINA of America Inc Marlis creates unique interpretations of classic and heirloom garments putting her own stamp of creativity on machine sewn projects JENNIFER GIGAS Jennifer an Education Consultant for BERNINA of America ii Inc combines serging sewing and embroidery in her updated versions of favorite patterns ad hh LYN LACKEY Currently a District Sales Manager for BERNINA of America Inc Lyn is a former BERNINA Educator and has tau
92. roidery software program Simply digitize an outline around the inside perimeter of your hoop use a long stitch length for ease in removal Hoop files for all BERNINA embroidery machines may be down loaded from www berninausa com What s New Free Downloads Design Placement Accurate design placement is essential to the success of the finished project Design templates may be copied or printed then trimmed to fit the quilt block Multiple designs may be combined for quilt blocks larger than the machine s maximum hoop size then pinned or adhered to the quilt with double sided tape Tip Print templates on transparencies for maximum visibility The plastic hoop template is used to keep the project aligned correctly in the hoop The Check function of the machine is used to adjust the design position if necessary Tip Use quilt block seam lines to help position design templates and as reference lines for the hoop template CONTINUING EDUCATION Take classes as often as possible and indulge in reference books for your quilting library If you have an opportunity to attend a quilt show study the quilts on display Make note of the things that make the quilts successful Ask questions of other quilters quilt teachers and staff at your local quilt shop Remember quilting is a leisure time activity Experiment with techniques until you find the ones that give you the best results with the least amount of frustration and the most pleasure and sat
93. ropriate for each area of the image In addition to 20 step fills there are 250 fancy fills craft fills pattern fills and a satin fill Refer to the Reference Files C MyDesigns Reference for a look at some of the fill types You may wish to sew out the reference files to use when selecting stitch types Will any of the areas include outlines What kind of outline style would be most effective What colors will you be using Setting up a custom thread chart will provide a more realistic view of the finished design Printing out the design template with the correct thread colors listed makes embroidery time more efficient Custom charts may be set with the thread brands and colors to be used in the design Note For detailed information on Thread Charts refer to page 75 of the Owner s Manual When planning your design coloration use pencils or markers to color copies of the artwork In what order should the design elements sew out Objects will sew out in the order they were created Keep this in mind when planning your digitizing sequence As a general rule large areas and background areas are stitched first Details and outlines are stitched last Stitching sequence may be edited once the design has been finished however it is more time efficient to simply plan the design path especially with more detailed designs Using a copy of the graphic number the elements in the order they should be created Use this as a guideline during the digiti
94. ry is complete unhoop fabric and remove the reference lines REJDIGITIZE AN OBJECT IN THE DESIGN Occasionally when enlarging an existing design there will be an object that cannot be split In this design the long satin stitched line needs to be re digitized into two shorter pieces Select the satin stitched line and go to Object Properties you will see that the width of the line is 0 25 3 92mm You want the line you digitize to be the same width as the original line Without any object on the screen selected open the Object Properties dialogue box gt Outline Stitch gt Satin gt change the width to 0 25 gt OK Select the Open Curve Tool and the Satin Outline Stitch Using two different colors digitize two lines that overlap each other slightly and that cover the original line in the design See Picture 4 Click on the Selection Tool Select the original satin stitched line To select it hold down the 2 key on the keyboard and click on the line Note The 2 key is used to search for a layer below the one on which you have clicked When you see that the whole line has been selected touch the Delete key on the keyboard Don t forget you can always touch the Undo icon if you need to Save the design GROUP THE DESIGNS FOR EASY HANDLING Select the Hoop icon and change the Position setting to Automatic Centering Select the top part of the satin stitched line holding down the Ctrl key also selec
95. satin stitched corded satin stitch or wired satin stitch edge finish Secure the appliqu shapes onto the background fabric using a straight stitch bartack or decorative stitches Add creases tucks and folds to the shapes before attaching to add to the dimensional effect Optional Add beads charms or other embellishments as desired Place Tear Away stabilizer on the wrong side of the area to which the appliqu will be stitched This stabilizer will be removed after stitching is complete Always test using the project fabric to determine the settings needed for the perfect satin stitch EMBROIDERY MACHINE APPLIQU Using the embroidery machine to appliqu is a way of achieving a large area of color and or pattern in an embroidery design without using a large number of stitches 29 30 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Settings amp Supplies PRESSER FOOT Embroidery Foot as required by machine THREAD Needle Decorative machine embroidery threads cotton or rayon Bobbin 60 2 or 50 3 cotton Silk finish NEEDLE Choose the needle based on the type and size of thread selected Machine Embroidery Metallica Metafil Topstitching TENSION This is automatic on many embroidery machines Another option for adjusting the tension If the bobbin has a CB hook system and or a hole in the finger of the bobbin case thread the finger after inserting the bobbin into the case Technique There are four basic steps
96. t Washington PA September 15 18 2005 ORIGINAL SEWING amp QUILT EXPO www sewingexpo com Harborview Center Clearwater FL February 24 26 2005 Gwinnett Center Atlanta GA Duluth March 10 12 2005 X Center Cleveland OH March 17 19 2005 DCU Center Worcester MA Boston April 14 16 2005 Dulles Expo Center Chantilly VA Washington DC September 29 October 1 2005 Donald E Stephens Convention Center Rosemont IL October 6 8 2005 Overland Park Convention Center Kansas City KS Overland Park October 13 15 2005 Sheraton Bloomington Hotel Minneapolis S Minneapolis MN Bloomington Nov 10 12 2005 s we travel through life we take many paths that lead to various experiences some good and some not so good One of the pathways or roads that brings satisfaction and fulfillment is the road to creativity We all travel this road in different ways but for those of us who sew there is a bond in the elements that attract us enthuse us and delight us fabric thread stitches fibers color texture and the possibilities that these offer BERNINA understands these bonds and strives to nurture and encourage them for beginning stitchers and for the more experienced The first Creativity Retreat in 2004 offered a venue for this nurturing process and was so successful it s going to happen again On August 25 28 sewing enthusiasts will converge on Lisle IL
97. t the edge of the garment Note For the standard Buttonhole Foot 3 3C loop cord from front to back leaving ends loose behind the foot The cord will lay in the grooves under the foot and allow the foot to move freely over the stitches After stitching the buttonhole and removing the project from the machine pull the ends of the cord to move the loop into the buttonhole For woven fabrics pull tight enough to pucker the buttonhole slightly Trim the ends of the cord and flatten the buttonhole making the cord ends disappear inside each bead For knitted fabrics thread the ends of the cord to the wrong side and tie to secure When sewn on heavy fabric such as for a coat or jacket corded buttonholes add stability and protect the garment against wear and tear If the fabric is thick place water soluble stabilizer on top of the buttonhole area before stitching As you sew the stitches will not sink into the deep fabric but remain on top to prevent any size distortion Tear or wash away stabilizer when buttonhole is complete SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Delicate Buttonholes Buttonholes for delicate fabrics such as those used in heirloom sewing require a finer less dense buttonhole If your sewing machine has a narrow and or hand look buttonhole these are the best choices for these projects Use extra fine thread size 60 or 80 on top and bottom to produce a finer less bulky buttonhole If your sewing machine does not have a
98. t the upper right part of the design Click on the Group tool to group these objects together See Picture 5 Select the lower part of the satin stitched line holding down the Ctrl key also select the lower right part of the design Click on the Group tool to group these objects together See Picture 6 ADDING A REFERENCE POINT Zoom in on the area where the two satin stitched lines meet Select the Single Outline Stitch Open the Object Properties dialogue box and change the stitch length to 5mm Select a new color Draw a horizontal line starting at the left edge of the satin stitched line and ending at the center of the design See Picture 7 DUPLICATING THE REFERENCE POINT Click on the Selection tool the single outline stitch just digitized will be selected Select Copy Paste Change the pasted copy to a different color Save the design GROUP FIRST DESIGN WITH REFERENCE LINE Open Color Film to make selection easier Scroll to the far right of the color bar and click on the last color square Hold down the Ctrl key on the keyboard and click on the bottom part of the design on the desktop Click on the Group tool GROUP SECOND DESIGN WITH REFERENCE LINE With Color Film still open click on the next to the last color square Hold down the Ctrl key on the keyboard and click on the top part of the design on the desktop SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION Click on the Group tool SAVE F
99. than 40 weight Other Threads miscellaneous threads for special effects YLI Monet 4096 wool 6096 acrylic use with a Topstitching needle YLI J eanstitch solid and variegated colors suitable for blanket stitch appliqu use Topstitching needle YLI 100 Silk Thread YLI Candlelight metallic yarn used for couching 3IN THREAD The selection of bobbin thread is also very important In general the bobbin thread is a lighter weight than the needle thread and will usually be selected to match the background fabric color Don t use inexpensive basting thread as it will generate a large amount of lint in the bobbin hook area OESD Bobbin Thread lightweight polyester available in black and white Mettler Fine Embroidery Thread 60 weight soft against skin available in many colors Thread tension is an important element when doing appliqu work The needle and bobbin threads must work together to create beautiful stitches If using differing weights in the needle and bobbin adjustments to the tension must be made there should be no bobbin thread showing on the top of the fabric To achieve this try the following Loosen the upper thread tension 40 weight threads loosen slightly 30 weight threads loosen a little more Metallic thread loosen much more Thread the stitch finger of the bobbincase CB bobbins only APPLIQUE PRESSER FEET There are several presser feet suitable for appliqu Each
100. the inner edge Satin Stitch Appliqu draw inside the line Blindstitch Hand Look draw outside the line Blanket Stitch Appliqu draw outside the line Machine Embroidered Appliqu draw outside the line Reverse Upside Down Appliqu draw outside the line Which One s On Top When pattern pieces share a stitch down line add a 44 seam to the piece lying underneath extending the shape beyond the shared seam line Frequently the pattern creator will have already done this for you indicating the edge of the seam allowance with a dotted line Read the pattern instruction sheet for additional tracing information Invisible appliqu pieces will need 14 seam allowances added to all edges if the pattern s creator hasn t already done this for you Read the pattern instruction sheet for additional tracing information When cutting a printed design from a fabric panel add Ys to the outer edges This will preserve the outer edges of the design and allow the satin stitching to frame the design without intruding into the picture FABRICS Fabrics of many different types weights and fibers may be used for the various appliqu techniques but keep in mind that 10096 cotton fabrics are the best choice to use for learning the techniques The appliqu fabrics should be lighter in weight than the background fabric to which they are being applied and should be pre shrunk as necessary STABILIZERS Us
101. ting and backing Once you ve mastered the technique you can move on to larger pieces Place the practice piece under presser foot Lower the foot even though it doesn t e Stitch first ring as for Gros i touch the fabric the foot must be lowered to engage the tension discs Outline Quilting Repeat as desired Sew one stitch stopping with needle up Pull needle thread to bring up the bobbin thread Take a few stitches in nearly but not quite the same place to secure stitching Clip tails Before continuing set a timer for 15 minutes and make sure you won t be disturbed This will help keep you from wondering how long you ve been practicing Place hands on either side of the needle area as a hoop Begin stitching running the machine at a moderate speed while moving your hands in a smooth controlled manner to form even consistent stitches Practice making simple repetitive shapes and then try your hand at the freemotion quilting techniques described on the following page SPECIAL CLASSROOM E CONTINUOUS LINE QUILTING The long unbroken lines of these intricate patterns are easily stitched by machine Use straight stitch with lowered feed dog and Freemotion Quilting Foot 29 29C or Freemotion Embroidery Foot 24 Mark stitching lines using a temporary method chalk wash away marker or other technique Stitch on marked lines STIPPLE QUILTING While lines seem to be randomly pl
102. tions variegated embroidery thread Superior Rainbows 40 wt variegated Superior Highlights 40 wt solid colors Superior Nature Colors 40 wt solid colors Superior Living Colors 40 wt solid colors Acrylic colorfast more durable than rayon but not as durable as polyester shinier than polyester rough to the touch adds dimensional effect to stitching YLI Ultrasheen acrylic embroidery thread 25 26 THROUGH THE NEEDLE Cotton more durable than rayon but not as durable as polyester Mettler Fine Embroidery Thread 60 weight Cotton Embroidery Thread 30 weight YLI Soft Touch 60 weight YLI Colours 30 weight lovely variegated colors Oliver Twist Hand Dyed Embroidery Thread 50 weight Oliver Twist Over the Top 16 weight DMC Cotton Machine Embroidery Thread Superior Perfect Quilter 17 weight e Superior King Tut Quilting Thread 40 weight Metallic two main categories 1 metallic fibers wrapped around a polyester core and 2 narrow strips of metallized polymer film Yenmet available in Metallic Pearlessence and Twilight varieties YLI Reflections YLI Fine Metallic YLI Kaleidescope Holographic Thread YLI Brilliance Metallic Glow in the Dark Thread Sulky Metallic Sulky Sliver e Superior Glitter Rayon soft delicate with a high sheen Sulky 40 weight rayon embroidery thread Sulky 30 weight rayon embroidery thread slightly heavier
103. to rotate clockwise Objects may be freely rotated by clicking twice and dragging the rotation handles around the motif Degree of rotation may also be set through the Object Properties dialog box Please refer to your owner s manual for specific information Select the design you wish to rotate Left click on the Rotate CCW CW icon The design is rotated to the left Undo Right click on the Rotate CCW CW The design is rotated to the right Undo Left click in the center of the motif The corner handles are now open squares Click and drag the motif to the desired degree of rotation Click and drag the center point to move the point around which the design is rotated SCALE BY 20 DOWN UP One of the advantages of working with art files and BERNINA embroidery machines is the ability to rescale designs When a design is scaled it is recalculated to add or remove stitches from the design to keep the density the same as the original The Scale tool provides quick scaling in 2096 increments Left click to reduce the size of the design right click to increase Scale the design by clicking and dragging the handles that appear when a motif is selected Design size may also be set through the Object Properties dialog box Please refer to your owner s manual for specific information Select the motif Left click on the Scale icon to scale down 20 Undo Right click on the Scale icon to scale the design up 20 Undo Click an
104. to successfully stitching embroidered appliqu s These steps are created when the design is digitized BERNINA V4 Embroidery Software has an Auto Appliqu feature that auto matically digitizes a design as an appliqu with just one click 1 PLACEMENT LINES This first line of single outline stitching indicates the position and size of the appliqu d shape The fab ric patch must completely cover this area for the appliqu to be filled with fabric 2 STRAIGHT SECURING STITCHES METHOD ONE This second line of outline stitching holds the appliqu patch in place After stitching the hoop is carefully removed from the machine module and the excess fabric trimmed from outside the stitching lines 3 ZIGZAG SECURING STITCHES METHOD ONE This line of zigzag stitching acts as a filler and adds dimension to subsequent satin stitching Note Appliqu shapes outlined with blanket stitching will not have this step METHOD TWO Holds the appliqu patch in place After stitching the hoop is carefully removed from the machine module and the excess fabric trimmed from outside the stitching lines 4 COVER STITCH Usually a satin or blanket stitch this is the final line of stitching When com plete the hoop is removed from the module machine and excess stabilizer is removed Suitable for most appliqu designs that can be sewn in a single hooping FACED APPLIQUE The appliqu shapes in this m
105. zing process How large will the finished design be Although it is ra Ores possible to adjust the size of any design created in inti the BERNINA Embroidery Software the amount of detailing will vary according the finished size of the iE RN j NA design DLE What kind of fabric will the design be embroidered on Settings for a variety of fabrics may be adjusted automatically Select the entire design CN Settings Fabric Settings o Select the appropriate fabric type Click OK What Tools Will Use to Create the Design Designer Plus Embroidery software provides both manual and fully automatic digitizing tools Tool selection is based prima rily upon the complexity of the artwork Combine the best of what each tool has to offer to complete your embroidery design most efficiently Auto Digitizer Use the Auto Digitizer to digitize an entire design with one click This tool is best used for full color graphics with minimal detailing Objects that have been auto digitized may be edited to adjust stitch angle stitch type and color Keep in mind that the software may convert some outlines to filled areas depending on the width of the lines Magic Wand The Magic Wand is used to automatically digitize individual areas of a graphic This tool is best used for black and white graphics or to quickly generate individual areas of a more complex piece of artwork Objects that have been

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