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oil change.pmd - Shadow Aero 750

1. err on the side of safety Why synth at all As mentioned before synth oil basically stops the break in process thereby extending the engines life Also most users report a smoothing and quietening of the gears transmission What about the filter Please note that carefully avoided recommending any particular brand of oil It s a volatile subject with most riders having a strong loyalty to one brand or another And with the noted exceptions above lm not aware that any of those major brands constitute a danger to the bike as long as clean fresh oil is kept pumping through its veins Unfortunately cannot be quite as objective about the filter While would put Fram and any of its subsidiary products which by the way includes the highly touted and very expensive K amp N oil filter in the same category as Quaker State and suggest avoiding those cardboard cellulose based products there are a multitude of good filters out there would also put out a caveat concerning the previously highly touted Wal Mart Super Tech filter Since this filter changed specs a few years ago the product was cheapened to a questionable level But one seems to rise head and shoulders above the rest not only in professional testing but in intense if not quite as scientific testing on the Aero Forum itself The Purolator Pure One PL14610 The MOST media of any filter available for the Aero ZERO reports of ANY failures of the valves EVER
2. oil Do not lose this You ll need it later Inspect it for damage or wear replace if necessary 4 Take a break Let the oil thoroughly drain 5 Once ALL draining has stopped replace the gasket and bolt using the Guttentight method or check your Service Manual for torque specs here Guttentight works fine WARNING Failure to replace the gasket can result in Stripping the threads on the oil pan 6 Place the drain receptacle under the left rear area of the motor under the filter Remove the filter and allow to drain lf this is the first oil change be prepared for that filter to be on there with an INCREDIBLE amount of torque 7 Using the funnel z acs w K ie discard the used oil into a Viet 3 proper receptacle for transport to an oil reclamation center Most auto parts stores Auto Zone Pep Boys Advance Auto etc are such reclamation centers 8 Once the filter area is thoroughly drained use a lint free rag to clean around that area and the entire bottom of the oil pan This will help in checking for leaks when done 9 Open one of the containers of oil some say to use a dab of the old oil whatever and apply a film of oil around the gasket of the new filter with your finger 10 Screw the new filter on hand tight then muscle it another 1 4 to 1 2 turn beyond that DO NOT USE THE FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE NEW FILTER 11 Remove the dipstick and using the funnel having wiped it out w
3. the top ranked filter in all SAE testing Easily available at any auto parts store and affordable at about 6 a copy Is the NAPA Gold filter good Certainly So are lots of others But the Pure One seems to outdistance its competitors by a fairly wide margin Finally Changing the oil What you need L 3 quarts of quality non energy conserving oil LJ Oil filter L Pan to catch draining oil L 17mm socket to remove the drain plug Ll Filter wrench to remove the oil filter Suggested Meancycles PART NO Bl4201 or a cap wrench available at any auto parts store Just make sure he one you buy fits the filter you are removing LJ New oil filter LI A funnel L Some rags Ll Some newpapers or a dropcloth For this part the bike should be on the kickstand not in a vertical position 1 Warm the bike for one minute no longer No need to go messing with a seriously hot bike with seriously hot oil Just warm it enough to get the oil flowing 2 Place the low sided receptacle under the oil pan Make sure you have some old newspapers or a dropcloth under the bike Things spill Just happens 3 There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the engine case toward the front of the engine Use a 17mm boxed end wrench to remove it Note that there is a washer or more accurately a gasket that will either come off still on the bolt stay stuck on a the oil pan or fall into the draining oil aE
4. Changing your Oil By CeeAre Filter and plug pictures by Earlbear What oil and why The subject of What oil can be greatly shortened to what oil NOT to use gt Do NOT use Quaker State or ANY paraffin based oil They create a sludge issue that is a motor killer gt Do NOT use any oil that has the legend Energy Conserving on the circular label found on the container This means it contains Moly s that will cause the clutch to slip in a shared sump system motor oil is doing double duty lubricating the engine AND bathing the wet clutch such as the Aero and most other metric bikes gt Do NOT use Honda brand Kawasaki brand Harley brand or any other Logo d brand of oil regardless of what your Motorcycle Owner s Manual might say These oils are private labeled by Only God Knows Who typically the lowest bidder You do NOT know what you are really getting and you are paying a premium price You can check the label for the API SG SF whatever certification if you want but basically any name brand oil you find is going to meet and or exceed those What weight to use For most US climes 10W 40 is gonna fill the bill If you live in Fargo ND and ride year round you might want to go to 5W 30 Warning Many brands of oil such as Castrol Syntech that do not have the Energy Conserving logo on their 10W 40 do have that legend on their 5W 30 CHECK THE LABEL Conversely if Guam is your r
5. have used the ride it hard technique change that original oil within the first 100 miles Remember this is break in oil from the manufacturer and is of a thinner viscosity than normal oil in order to facilitate that needed break in Now you can go to synthetic if you so desire Remember mentioned to not go to synth at the first oil change when using the conservative break in method Well here s why using synth basically STOPS the break in process At 600 miles of conservative riding you are NOT ready for that process to be stopped yet Wait for that next oil change recommend meaning that am entering that spooky area called opinion that next change come at around 3500 miles and that the oil be changed every 3K miles for dino oil to 4K for synth And yes Know this is FAR more frequently than the manual asks for and far more frequently than a synth oil manufacturer such as Amsoil says is necessary As to the manual 8000 MILES Are you kidding First wouldn t treat a 200 Briggs and Stratton lawn mower like that why would do it to my pride and joy Second remember the people that published your MOM are the same ones that would like very much to sell you a new bike every two years Third again in my humble opinion there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING you can do to more greatly extend an internal combustion engines longevity than have clean fresh oil in the crankcase Nothing firmly choose to
6. iding habitat you may want to go to 15W 50 Frankly anywhere in those ranges is going to be just fine When to change and to what Ahhh now here s the ticklish part When to do that first oil change and when to consider going to a synthetic depends largely on how you determine to break your bike in lf youre conservative and want to break the bike in slow as per Honda s recommendation follow the manual s advise and change the oil at the recommended 600 miles for the first change DO NOT GO TO SYNTH AT THIS CHANGE Read on for the why of this lf youre not conservative and will ride the bike hard things are different For detailed technical info on why this is not the lunacy that it sounds check out this site http AWwww mototuneusa com break_in_secrets htm To boil the article down along with some gross oversimplification what he is saying is that your rings have high and low spots and are being seated via the cross hatchings on the cylinder walls By breaking it in slowly you are attacking the high spots but as they wear down they are erasing the cross hatching By the time you get to the lower spots the cross hatchings are largely gone and those low spots never get totally seated By running the bike pretty much full out from the get go you are seating the entire ring circumference a LOT quicker attacking the low spots while the cross hatching is still available Now back to the when issue If you
7. ith the lint free rag install 2 1 2 quarts of oil 12 Replace and screw in the dipstick WARNING NEVER REMOVE OR REPLACE THE DIPSTICK WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING There s moving parts down in there and no good can come of it Also NEVER START THE BIKE WITHOUT THE DIPSTICK SCREWED IN That area becomes pressurized and a heck of a mess can ensue 13 Start the bike and let idle for one minute Visually inspect the undercarriage for leaks during this time 14 Shut the bike off let it sit for one minute sit on it bring the bike up to level off the kickstand remove the dipstick checking to insure that the gasket is still attached above the threads of the dipstick and NOT sitting on the opening or down at the bottom of the threads wipe it with a lint free rag and place the dipstick back atop the oil hole Do NOT screw it in Remove the stick and read the level Theoretically you SHOULD show a little low since the specs ask for 2 7 qts or so depending on a few variables Repeat steps 12 through 14 if necessary adding just a little oil at a time until the level shows at mid range or just a smidgen on the high portion of the flat area on your dipstick DO NOT OVERFILL THE CRANKCASE This can at best cause a mess in your breather at worst blow some seals You re done Go riding

oil change.pmd - Shadow Aero 750

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