~ Kansaki KBW 10 Transmission Fluid Leak Repair
Contents
1. This is the output coupling removed cleaned up and showing the splines Note also the impression along the inner edge of the forward end that accommodates the O ring arrow oe This shows how the O ring fits against the forward end of the coupling later the O ring will actually be placed around the shaft and rolled forward to set in the groove on the shaft Here is the shaft exiting the transmission housing after removing the coupling key slot for caulking denting the lip of the locking nut once tightly threaded threads for the locking nut right handed splines integrate the coupling with the shaft oil seal prevents oil from leaking between the housing and the coupling FONS The next job was to remove the oil seal This was popped out by leverage with a closed pair of needle nosed pliers tried a can opener but that didn t work A pick was suggested but couldn t find mine The oil seal is a hard plastic ring that fits snuggly in the housing It has 2 parallel flexible lips on the inner side that seal against the coupling In the middle is a spring that encircles the flexible lips and keeps them pressed against the coupling damaged the spring taking the seal out Otherwise it appeared to be doing its job aaith ha TTT A May J a A failed oil seal was not my problem because the oil was leaking along the shaft and inside the couplings not around them So my prob2. Kansaki KBW 10 Transmission Fluid Leak Repair Replacing the oil seal O ring and locking nut on Spindache 1989 Island Packet 35 Spring 2015 So as with any old boat just when you think you ve fixed everything there is to be fixed Murphy throws a re fix in your face Back in the spring of 2007 while preparing for my last Marion Bermuda race discovered transmission fluid leaking from the shaft couplings behind the transmission block A certified Yanmar service center told me it was the rear transmission seal that had failed so had them fix it Since a certified Yanmar mechanic will only fix this seal by taking the entire transmission out of the boat and taking it to their shop a big production it was a big expense costing nearly 1 300 While they were in there they replaced some other stuff the damper disc in the transmission because as they said This opportunity is never likely to arise again Murphy must have been listening This past summer 7 years and 750 engine hours later discovered this wr 4 y 4 E _ j TT o e i a SS n ar jij mpn l m sure by now the cost of this repair has jumped by 30 50 So did what any do it yourselfer would have done went online to see if could do it myself There discovered several people who had done the repair without removing the transmission one in particular who did it on an Island Packet Below is his phot
3. and up against the O ring placed some blue Loctite on the threads of the nut and the shaft then hand threaded the nut in place with the flange facing aft AW i ub then used Jack s custom tool to tighten the nut This is how the tool fit in the notches of the locking nut tightened the nut with as much force as felt equaled the 80 pounds of torque recommended the locking nut snug in place Next using a heavy chisel and ball peen hammer made a dent in the nut s flange directly over the key notch in the end of the shaft effectively caulking the nut in place Next the packing gland was loosened to ease pressure on the prop shaft so it could be moved forward bringing the two couplings back together Before bolting this was a good time to check the alignment of the two shafts by checking for an even gap all the way around where the couplings meet Mine was perfect no adjustment needed A malaligned shaft is a common cause of many oil seal failures 7 i ts i 5 i Vinti l g gt 7 wi Ree s o l S io a ia t G a oo wi t la Keep in mind most of this work was done looking through a mirror and cramped in the tight space between the back of the engine and the bulkhead a space of about 10 There was no room to apply a socket wrench used combination wrenches to reattach the couplings with the 4 bolts lock washers and nuts Now it was ready to paint Next refill the tra
4. ets the shaft in the drawing the outer roller bearing 3 bottom left the O ring 2 the output coupling 28 the locking nut 29 Before dismantling the coupling the transmission had to be drained of lubricating fluid Then the locking nut had to be removed This would require enough torque to break the caulking dent in the nut s lip Due to the unique shape of this nut it requires a custom tool in order to be removed or tightened Yanmar sells the wrench shown below part 177099 09010 expressly for that purpose at a cost of about 235 Online found this photo of a homemade wrench showed the nut and the photo of the homemade wrench to my very handy brother in law Jack Roberts former owner of Packet Inn a 1984 IP31 while visiting him this winter He fashioned me a similar tool from an aluminum bar into which he drilled and tapped 2 holes then added some stainless steel bolts He even added some serial numbers just for authenticity The spacers under the bolt heads made it easy to adjust the length of the bolts so that the handle lay as close to the coupling as possible when engaging the nut with the nut fully threaded in making the tool much stiffer when force was applied On the next page is Jack s homemade tool in place with the bolts inserted into the notches on the nut With a little force was able to break the caulking and unthread the nut it worked like a charm
5. lem had to be the O ring Now with the oil seal out of the way could see the O ring The arrow shows the position of the O ring where the roller bearing meets the shaft EOG ALN ar gt 7 Oe r oe 4 gt k 3 y i ae i ERE T gt DE ere nag oes four ao pt y lt me p Ps pms Er ss a i 3 z E 4 a7 picked the O ring out with a small flathead screwdriver and then cleaned the entire area with WD 40 mineral spirits and finally 90 alcohol to remove all the transmission oil Then could see the groove in the shaft that the O ring had been sitting in arrow E i The new O ring on the left and the damaged one on the right A piece found floating around in there This cross section gives you an idea of the arrangement of these parts Now it was time to install the new parts O ring oil seal and locking nut total 33 64 Eai i p lt 3 Next was the oil seal The new oil seal as seen from the side that goes into the housing first The outside aft surface of the seal placed the seal into the housing by hand to get it even then tapped it carefully with a hammer and a small block of teak going all around advancing it evenly It was a tight fit but eventually sat flush with the housing wa Next slid the coupling over the shaft and aligned the splines sliding the coupling forward until it sat inside the seal
6. nsmission with oil and start her up and see if she leaks have to wait for warmer weather Jim Lawless s v Spinache P35 016 March 2015
7. o of the first step in this process separating the couplings that connect the output shaft coming out of the transmission to the prop shaft running out to the prop There are 4 grade 8 bolts that hold these together To separate these couplings you have to slide the prop shaft aft far enough to slide the output coupling off the output shaft To accomplish this you need to unthread the stuffing box packing gland to relieve pressure on the prop shaft This is my stuffing box before unthreading and after note the water rushing in through the through hull f pr TS kaarre S _ Then it was easy to slide the prop shaft aft This is how much room had before hitting the rudder more than enough AEA Fai E zoh ey The prop shaft coupling now was moved aft through the bulkhead opening Using smoke and mirrors could see the locking nut that holds the output coupling to the shaft Note the caulking dent notched into the shaft key slot that keeps the nut from backing off in reverse Notice also all the dried up greasy transmission fluid that has accumulated inside the coupling and around the nut ND SE The diagram on the next page from the Yanmar Service Manual shows the parts of the transmission we are dealing with in this repair the splined end of the output shaft 1 the groove that runs around the shaft just forward of the splines the double line just near where the 1 line me
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