T5 Rebuild: The saga…
Contents
1. then set up your driving system adapters into the press I use an old race turned upside down so the new race is driven in only by the outer lip a slug of round bar and a length of pipe Slowly press the race into place and stop when you feel consistent resistance in the ram Not difficult but some care must be exercised Cluster gear 7 Clean the cluster gear regardless if new or used Install eet eee yy the new front bearing either with a press or by using the Ti ER a z 1 7 8 O D pipe driving it on with a sledge If you don t eoa Daoa eae have a press heat the bearing in an oven at 200 degrees for a few minutes prior to installation Even with no heat it will go on quite easily if lubed and driven on making sure small diameter of bearing is away from the cluster gear Install the cluster into the main case seating bearing in race Stand the case on the bellhousing mount face Install the rear cluster bearing using the same procedure as the front Measure the thickness of the original shim record and install it followed by bearing retainer and fasteners torque to 11 15 lb ft DO NOT BEND TABS UP AT THIS TIME With the top of the main case towards you so you can see and still on bellhousing face set up dial indicator to read cluster gear endplay and zero out Pry the cluster gear up with a large screwdriver and note amount of endplay The factory endplay range is 001 005 If the endplay is not w2. It s OK if they fall out but pay attention to the bearings and shims that cage the loose bearings and provide clearance between the input and main shafts Some T5 s use a steel spacer looks like a flat washer on top of the loose bearings others do not most later model units use the spacer Just be aware of this and reassemble with the same parts stack up Remove the thrust bearing spacer and blocker from the 3 4 synchro at this time If you plan to replace the input shaft bearing remove it using a bearing separator and balancer puller or shop press Overdrive I am grouping all of the components located inside the tailhousing in the overdrive area even though not all are related Remove the small plastic oil slinger that is in the end of the cluster gear with pliers screwdriver etc If your trans is equipped with a rubber output shaft seal align it with the splines and pull off Depress retaining clip that holds the speedo gear in place and slide gear rearward off the output it may take some persuasion with a hammer The clip will fall loose once the speedo gear slides far enough to clear Remove the retaining ring that holds the 5 driven gear onto the mainshaft with retaining ring pliers and slide the gear off Match mark the fifth gear synchro ring to the hub with a Dremel and remove the snap ring that holds the shield and hub to the end of the cluster Note The pre 92 unit is shown see details near bottom for the
3. cleaner Air compressor and air nozzle Regular screwdrivers large and small Valco Tube Grip RTV sealant dispenser the best 15 I ever spent 3 8 or 1 2 diameter punch I use Chevrolet fuel pump pushrod Bushing driver 1 625 O D x 1 500 I D Foot pound torque wrench Dremel w cut off wheel for marking synchro hubs rings 4 C clamp or Quick grip 3lb sledge Cold chisel T40 Torx bit 1 7 8 O D x 1 1 4 1 1 4 pipe to 1 3 8 I D x 5 1 2 long pipe for cluster bearings 3 diameter slug of material approximately 1 1 2 thick or so Bearing separator or harmonic balancer puller and threaded rods Shop press optional but makes life much easier Required chemicals RTV I prefer Permatex UltraBlack but any oil resistant RTV will work Loc tite 242 blue removable Non hardening thread sealer Pli A Seal Grey Bolt Prep etc Vaseline for holding loose parts in place Three quarts of your favorite trans fluid Loc tite 271 red permanent Note The above italicized tools and Loc tite are required for cluster gear replacement The Teardown I am going to assume that you have successfully drained and removed the trans from the vehicle if you haven t shut off the computer and back away slowly Seriously it is my contention that if you can remove the trans without hurting yourself or breaking something you should be able to accomplish the rebuild If the trans is fairly dirty cart it
4. cut a corner off a little bigger than the shim Then I traced the inside of the shim onto a piece of 010 sheet steel CN shim stock might work cut the steel dot out a little smaller and glued it to the small corner of Melamine I had cut I used this to hold and move the shim down on the sandpaper I then placed a full sheet of wet dry 320 grit onto the large piece of Melamine wetted the paper with paint thinner and placed the shim on the paper I placed the small piece of Malinine with steel dot glued on over the shim and wiggled it around to catch the shim I ran the shim across the full width of the paper at one end about 100 times as I turned the shim every 10 times or so CN I usually use a figure eight 8 pattern I kept moving across the sandpaper as one track would wear out I got 4 tracks across a sheet It took two 2 sheets of sandpaper and about 15 minutes to knock 005 off my shim I wasn t having any luck lapping the shim until I did it this way Not bad if you are in a pinch or you want to really get close with your shims Alright John Note All the layouts were done in AutoCAD Version 14 If you would like an electronic copy drop me a line and I ll get it out to you ASAP Cost breakdown from John s experience 93 Cobra input shaft 125 00 Shipping and handling 9 00 Bearing 7 95 Mainshaft machining 25 00 Pressing cup into input 5 00 Total 171 95 References
5. indicted 1 left the 620 as a reference dim Input shaft Because the input shaft 1s hardened machining the required features is nigh impossible Grinding is about the only realistic modification option but may prove too costly It is recommended that you purchase the correct input shaft new The correct input is from the 93 Cobra T5 build code 1352 218 Tremec apart number 1352 085 050 You cannot use the 2 95 first geared Z spec input as it has 24 teeth versus the 23 on the 3 35 first gear transmissions National Drivetrain has this shaft available for 125 I will leave the following verbiage intact in the event that some of you are gluttons for punishment or have access to the proper grinding equipment Chuck the input shaft up in the grinder preferably at the bearing surface to shorten the overhang Be careful to avoid damage to the bearing surface and set the total indicator run out TIR to 001 or less While this sounds tight keep in mind that a part with a similar tolerance will be mated with it creating 002 maximum eccentricity Machine the input to the dimensions below which will provide 0005 to OO1 interference fit on the bearing cup race While not indicated shoot for a 32 microinch or better finish on the race seat features Note the factory inputs do not provide a clearance feature to facilitate race removal in the event of damage A small three jaw internal bearing puller might allow
6. is 5 6 pints 2 8 quarts just fill up until it runs out of the top fill port on the passenger side Parts list numbers correspond to exploded assembly drawings ipti Switch back up lamp Ring 5 gear blocking 2 i i 3 3 5 7 10 11 12 13 14 Gear 1 drive Bearing output shaft rear Pin reverse gear shift Race output rear bearing Retainer cluster bearing Shim cluster endplay Lever reverse gear shift Race cluster rear bearing 8 9 os i a 7 EE 66 Gear 5 driven EN 6 Bolt ailhousing to case 37 Bearing cluster rear 68 Gear speedo drive gear 7 Busting tailhousing 38 Gear cluster 69 Shafi shift 8 _ Seal tailhousing ouput 39 Cup cluster front bearing 70 Plate gear selector 10 Ball mea O ring case vent Ball shifter detent Spring shifter detent Block shift 13 Pin shift block roll 14 Bushing shifter O ring cup seal Plate gear interlock Bearing roller thrust Block gear selector Pin block retaining Shim thrust bearing Plug shift shaft Ring 3 4 blocker Spring 34 synchro insert Cover trans top Hub 3 4 synchro Plug tailhousing shifter Bearing 3 caged roller 18 Fork 4 5 shift 49 Spacer 3 gear bearing _80_ Retainer input bearing Gear 2 drive Bearing input shaft 24 Gear reverse idler 55 Shim 1 2 synchro thrust__ 86 Ring 3 4 synchro 27 Ring external snap 58 Ba
7. seated Assemble the remainder of the trans per appropriate documentation and or procedures until you get to Endplay set up One of the main advantages of the tapered roller bearing is the ability to set the input bearing preload higher than with the flat roller thrust bearing Following the Helm manual install the input shaft with bearing pressed on and input bearing race in the retainer without any shims and tighten the four fasteners Place the transmission on the face of the case with the input shaft facing down and tailhousing up I used a couple of heads to set mine on as they were handy Set up a dial indicator so that it contacts the end of the output shaft see figure right and zero the dial Using a block of wood push upward on the input shaft and note the reading on the dial indicator Normally the indicator reading would be the optimum shim but with the tapered roller bearing add 0005 to 004 Thanks to Glenn Forester for confirmation for proper preload Rotate the trans back to horizontal remove the retainer install appropriate shims apply a bead of RTV to the retainer and install John s shim story slightly edited I needed a 035 shim and found it more difficult to find than I thought I had a 030 and a 010 I found an easy way to lap the shims I lapped the 030 to 025 in no time after I got the technique down I had a piece of Melamine a plastic coated particle board about 16x16 I
8. synchronized style which I think started in mid 92 Support the end of the fifth gear shift shaft with a block of wood and drive the roll pin out of the shift fork with the 3 16 punch Simultaneously slide the shift fork and the 5 synchro assembly off their respective shafts remove brass blocker and 5 drive gear and set the parts aside Main shaft With everything removed from the front and rear the mainshaft assembly should come right out Wiggle the front a little to unseat the bearing race at the rear of main case and remove the race Lift the front of the shaft slightly and towards passenger side and pull assembly out guiding output shaft through bearing race hole Set the whole assembly aside for now We ll treat it as a separate subassembly as it contains the bulk of the parts If you are fortunate and haven t blown up third with a missed shift you will most likely be able to skip the next two steps unless you want to replace the bearings and races E n Reverse Unhook the rail spring and pull the rail out the back of the main case Note Sometime in mid 1992 Borg Warner changed to a torsion spring from an extension spring to force the shift rail forward Unhook the end of the torsion spring from the pin with a large flat screwdriver and rotate it out of the way Remove the shift rail block and set aside Remove the reverse light switch located on the driver s side of the main
9. T5 Rebuild The saga by Chris Neighbors Date July 30 2002 The problem After many abusive over torqued powershifts the venerable T5 is left a little worse for wear Couple this with no built in shift fork limits and sheer age and the frequency of failure is quite high in any spirited driven vehicle Or in some cases the high mileage often seen on Mustangs results in worn out friction linings on the blocker rings My first and only so far failure was a delaminated fourth gear blocker I could upshift but had to pause a while to downshift until it went out altogether at 125 000 miles Update July 2 1999 Blew input shaft at lunch Thing sounded like a grenade going off left with fourth gear only Now I feel like a real man LOL The solution Why a thorough rebuild of course While going through the rebuild do you and your trans a favor by spending some of the money saved on upgrades the two most notable are a steel input shaft bearing retainer and a decent aftermarket shifter or at least do something about the factory rubber isolators like remove them Besides learning how to do a rebuild to get yourself out of trouble it s a great bartering skill when your friends blow theirs up The sources I have purchased parts from D amp D Performance Hanlon Motorsports and National Drivetrain I have received outstanding service from all and always receive my parts in a timely manner However I will not do business
10. While the synchro assemblies can fit on any cluster the tailhousings cannot they are not forward compatible you can use an old synchro with a new housing but you cannot use an old housing with a new synchro J mS J Tog nnen a a n en W In the above photo the late style fifth santos 1S shows with early style below it Note the late version with the second brass blocker the conical washer w tab and the internally tabbed washer locks into cluster splines all of which replace the stamped sheetmetal insert keeper of the early style All of the other parts are the same In order to attempt to slow the cluster the tab on the conical washer has to mate to a feature in the tailhousing The difference in the above photo is subtle but can get you into trouble if you cannot tell the early unit on the left from the late unit on the right The area that the plastic slinger goes into to provide splash lubrication for the speedo gear and driveshaft bushing is a bit different Notice the material removed from the casting just above the slinger well The material removal is the anchor for the conical washer tab as shown above When assembling a late unit pay attention to the orientation of the tab so that it mates up properly if not the tailhousing will be difficult to seat to the main case Enlarged views below Main case and reverse shift block variations Again some time in mid 92 Borg Warn
11. artnumber Shifter considerations If you don t want to cough up the money for an aftermarket shifter there are a couple of things that can be done with the stock unit to provide more feedback both involve removing the rubber bushing in the shifter handle The cheapest is to braze the holes up and drill with a P drill bit in the correct locations Steeda offers stainless steel shifter bushings they install in place of the rubber units in minutes While these two modifications improve driver feedback they do not prevent the shift forks from overshifting inside the trans Overtravel of the shift forks is the main cause of shift fork failure Trans fluid Whatever you do do not use gear oil e g 80W90 in a T5 The lubrication passages are so small on some components that gear oil will not flow readily and lubricate properly You stand a chance of spalling galling or otherwise destroying a trans if pushed to extremes Use Dexron I Mercon III or a synthetic ATF Some synthetics have friction modifier in them if you can find one without it opt for that one read the back of the container usually they indicate whether modifier is present or not If you use a synthetic I have found in the handful of friends cars that run it that the trans tends to whine a little more than with conventional ATF If you don t mind the slight amount of noise the increased service interval is nice I drive mine 100 miles per day The fluid capacity
12. case with a 7 8 wrench The Helm and Tremec manuals both require you to remove the reverse gear shift lever pivot pin BEFORE you do anything well before you remove gearsets For the life of me I have not been able to remove three of three to date and that is dated Don t fret it too much Remove the retaining clip and reverse shift lever if it won t come out now remove it after the shift rail and reverse idler are removed Drive the roll pin through the reverse idler gear shaft This can be fun The shaft will try to rotate as you drive the pin through If you manage without getting blood blisters congratulate yourself Cluster gear Stand the main case on its forward face bellhousing mount face Use a hammer and chisel to bend over the four fastener lock tabs on the bearing retainer Remove the four fasteners with the T40 Torx bit and set fasteners retainer and shim aside Remove the reverse idler gear shaft gear and o ring To allow removal of the cluster the rear bearing must be removed or at least the cage and rollers If you desire to reuse the bearing use a bearing separator and balancer puller or shop press or two three jaw puller to remove the bearing If you are planning to replace the bearing the quickest approach is to cut the cage with aviation snips allowing the removal of the cage and rollers Finagle the cluster gear out of the main case Remove the front cluster bearing race by tapping it out from the fron
13. counterbore Blow the housing out as small slivers of aluminum and bushing material may be created during installation Apply a 1 8 bead of RTV to the main case mounting surface and around vent if applicable on the tailhousing Let the RTV cure for a few minutes then line it up over the output and shift shafts Lube the o ring on the cover with Vaseline or trans fluid Install the spring in shift block held in place with a dab of Vaseline Drop the detent ball onto detent plate in the neutral position push the shift block over ball with shifter bushing towards the rear press down a bit and align the hole with the shift shaft Simultaneously push tailhousing and shift block forward making sure shift rail and cluster gear bearing race pilot in their respective bores Once home prep the bolts with sealant install and torque to 20 45 lb ft eae Input output shaft preload endplay Stand the trans up on the bellhousing face and support it so you have access to input shaft I normally use a couple of heads Set up the dial indicator to read output shaft endplay and zero it out after pulling down on the input shaft With a block of wood force the input shaft up and read the endplay on the dial indicator pull down on and rotate the input shaft and repeat the reading I do this three to four times to ensure I get consistent readings Return the trans to the bench and remove input shaft bearing retainer being careful not to dislodge t
14. down to the local car wash for degreasing and pressure washing nothing personally bothers me more than to try to do a rebuild on a grungy component We ll break the trans into seven areas tailhousing cover input shaft overdrive main shaft cluster gear and reverse Before you begin study the exploded views in the Helm or Tremec manual or the download from TTC of the entire trans You might and should blow a copy up and keep it handy during the rebuild Tailhousing ae Remove the eight 8 tailhousing to main case ai B fasteners with a 15mm wrench socket Breaking E o the fasteners loose first with a box end wrench and a hammer makes things much easier as would air tools With the shifter removed if not already drive the roll pin through shift block with 3 16 punch The pin may not fall all the way through as long as it clears the shift shaft you re fine Break the sealant bond between the tailhousing and main case by tapping the end of the housing with a rubber mallet don t try to remove housing just break it free of the case Apply slight downward pressure on the shift block and simultaneously slide block off the shift shaft while removing the tailhousing from the a E trans Once the block is free continue to pull all the parts off and place on the bench If the vent didn t come off in a 265 ft lb tranny case remove it from themain case and place it into the locating feature on tailhousing normally the seala
15. ed roller bearing use a retaining ring to keep the 3 4 synchro hub in location on the mainshaft The non Z Cobra trannys restrict movement with the stack up of the roller thrust bearing and shim between the hub and input bearing The length of the splined shaft protruding beyond the synchro hub is shorter on the non Z Cobra T5 s and therefore prevents the ability to install a retaining or snap ring I m a bit nervous about this but all of the hubs I ve removed were nearly pressed on and required some effort to remove them A groove could be cut in the shaft for a smaller ID ring but the reduction in cross sectional area is very detrimental especially coupled with the stress concentration although very little torsion is present mainly a bending moment I hate to recommend Loc tite bearing retainer as it will make future service nigh impossible without heat other options might be available staking peening swedging deforming one spline to create slight interference Also since the bearing is larger diameter than the ID of the synchro hub and will not pass through it the bearing will have to be removed in order to remove the hub A small bearing separator will be required Trans disassembly Disassemble the transmission per the Tremec or Helms manual Hanlon s video or my previous literary work LOL Remove the pressed on tapered roller bearing from the front of the input shaft and clean carb cleaner works wonders Sight down the
16. er changed or added to the reverse shift block return system The early units employ a tension spring to pull the block forward see pictures above in the main body while the later units rely on a torsion spring for the returning force I m have encountered at least one unit that had both spring systems but I am not sure if that was from the factory or an overly cautious rebuilder The picture f below has an early unit on the left with a late unit on the right notice both have the boss for the tension spring on top ae but the late version has a longer roller EE ae es nlite Pi ne pin that the torsion spring clips to To use the torsion spring block you u will need a case with an ior pin in adhe side The picture below right shows the outside views of both cases the late unit on the left and the early unit on the right Notice the hex headed fastener to the lower right of the reverse light switch hole that is the anchor for the torsion spring Looking inside the case left you can see the small anchor above and to the right of the shift lever anchor and the reverse light switch hole Photo Gallery o Failures courtesy of many people Delaminated blockers After years of use the friction material Pe of the blocker can debond from the blocker This condition isn t ra a result of abuse or neglect but causes the trans to grind when shifting with any speed since the fric
17. eral areas until you can pry the seal out Remove the bushing by either driving it out with a driver or deform it with a screwdriver or cut it with cold chisel the bushing has a seam in it if you can find it and pry on one side they usually split and come out without getting overly aggressive There is a drain groove in the tailhousing the perfect place to get a chisel screwdriver under the bushing to start deformation If you damage the bore while removing the bushing touch up the damage with a small file and 180 220 grit sandpaper Inside the shifter well you will see a shifter detent plate pay particular attention here as a good deal of sludge builds up Chamfer the oil drain back hole with a countersink deburr tool or a large drill bit Main shaft The mainshaft has a greater number of components than any other single sub assembly For this reason it is advisable to clear the area of all other parts while working on it I like to stack the parts in order and correct orientation upon removal Starting from the front of the main shaft mark the 3 4 synchro hub and outer ring with the Dremel as before to insure proper reassembly Remove the ring being careful to not let the synchro inserts and springs fly off The synchro hub may slip off or it may need some coaxing with a two three jaw puller or bearing separator Some units ago I could not get a hold of the hub with my small two jaw pullers I didn t want to set up the shop p
18. g info corrected spelling Cluster gears Fie Cluster 052 Third gear Fifth gear Toothcount 34 SS _ 59 Ratio 100 129 f 193 315 335 f 68 Mating tooth cout 23 7 o a 7 MatingPN 1352085025 1352080044 941 30 Ws S Fourth Third Second Reverse First Fifth i Cluster _065 068 Third gear Fifth gear Tomom sss Ratio 100 133 199 f 315 335 68 MatingPN 1352085025 S d 0 30 Tomem es a M ET 24 30 33 90 E Mating PN J o ooo S S S S S O The ratio for any gear is a easy to calculate given the above info a simple multiplication problem involving input gear ratio and output gear ratio 4 gear cluster tooth count input tooth count x driven gear in question cluster mate tooth count e g 34 23 x 34 15 3 35 Note I need information for a Z spec 2 95 first gear unit Tailhousing fifth gear and main case Subtle differences can make or break you Fifth gear synchro and tailhousing variations One of the common complaints about the T5 is the lack of a synchronizer while shifting into reverse Borg Warner made an attempt in mid 92 to relieve the grinding by piggy backing a synchronizer and blocker assembly on the fifth gear synchro The attempt was to slow the cluster gear a bit to allow easier reverse idler gear engagement but the fix was only marginally successful
19. gear synchro assembly the taper on the O D of the sliding ring should be installed towards the rear of the trans The shift fork should be installed with the fork offset to the rear also Once assembled align the holes in shift fork and shift rail and drive the roll pin into place Install the plastic oil slinger into end of the cluster gear Cover If you have to replace a damaged shift fork see the Helm or Tremec manual for parts sequence and procedure Install a new o ring on shift shaft boss and apply a 1 8 bead of RTV on the main case to cover sealing surface on the main case itself Let it set for a few minutes then carefully lower cover onto main case while engaging shift forks into grooves in synchro rings Install the cover fasteners and torque to 6 11 lb ft in a criss cross pattern Apply a small amount of thread sealant to the neutral switch install the pin and switch Tailhousing If you removed the bushing during clean up and didn t install a new one do so now There are a couple of ways to get the bushing in drive it in with the correct size bushing driver or put the bushing in the freezer for several hours and hope you can get it in place before it warms up it might help if you put tailhousing in the oven at around 200 degrees for fifteen minutes or so to expand it Lube the bushing with ATF then drive it in until the end is even the tailhousing chamfer not the major diameter the diameter below the seal
20. he input shaft Remove the bearing race from inside the retainer and install shim s of the same thickness as the observed endplay This will provide 000 endplay the factory allows plus or minus 002 however Reinstall the bearing race and apply 1 8 bead of RTV to bearing retainer sealing surface Let the RTV cure for a bit then install retainer with flat narrow drain back at bottom Apply sealant to the fasteners and torque to spec 11 20 lb ft Apply a thin layer of RTV to the shell of the rear seal and drive seal into place with the 3 8 or 1 2 punch tap with hammer around the circumference of seal to avoid damage Wait to install shifter until the trans is in the car the easiest way to fill it with fluid is through the shifter hole Miscellaneous tidbits Speedometer drive gear If you have installed gears in your Mustang you may be the victim of an inaccurate speedometer Ford used a seven 7 tooth drive gear in the 1983 to 1989 T5 s then switched to an eight 8 tooth drive in 1990 used through 1995 If you have 3 73 s with an eight tooth drive and the highest driven gear with twenty three 23 teeth the speedometer still reads 5 fast Now is the optimum time to correct the situation with the transmission apart for service With the limited number of gears available the combinations are number in the table is the driven gear tooth number to be used with left hand gear ratio and drive gear column P
21. hrough the mount holes from the top once the mount is removed and bending the nails over Quick simple and effective Also to cover the shifter hole in lieu of duct tape fabricate a sheetmetal cover as 63 8 illustrated at a Uea 7 8 lw 9 16 right Now your tranny will ride in style 7 16 N albeit poor i gt P 2 11 16 S472 T CD CD sdy ar References There have been several other rebuilds published since my first write up and I have failed to keep up with them If you discover one and think it should be added please let me know and I will add it below with due credit of course 1991 Shop Manual Helm Publishing Part FPS 12193 91 last two digits year Cost 52 Phone 313 865 3418 Cost 8 or 17 from Hanlon or free to download you decide Mustang Performance Handbook by William Mathis HPBooks 1193 ISBN 1 55788 193 6 Cost 17 from Bookstop Homebuilt T 5 by Vinnie Kung Muscle Mustang amp Fast Fords September 1998 176 T5 101 by Rob Reasor Super Ford January 1999 98 105 Links T5 Index http www 5 speeds com t5 index html Cluster gear stabilizer http www gearzone net t5 htm Need to add correct Revision history May 25 2002 update entire article much needed July 27 2002 added pictures based on ImmortalStang s rebuild July 30 2002 added Cobra bearin
22. input shaft splines checking for straightness Oftentimes a car that has been launched on slicks will tend to twist the splines If the twist is slight very closely inspect better yet magnaflux or Zyglo the end of the splines towards the body for cracks If your particular input is severely twisted or cracked replacement is suggested Remove the mainshaft assembly and disassemble down to the bare shaft make sure you keep the parts in order clean Machine shop work Cart the mainshaft and input if brave to your favorite local machine shop with a copy of the drawings below Smile act civil and try not to grimace when you are quoted a price Keep in mind these guys make money with a running machine and setting up new parts takes time Expect to pay in the 25 to 35 range to get the mainshaft modified who knows about the input Mainshaft Chuck up the e 1012 p mainshaft in the lathe and set TIR to be 001 39 or less as above Machine the features as indicated at right to PE 63885 provide 0005 to 001 Looy bearing interference w 6 20 ea Original mainshaft Modified mainshaft Note I had originally detailed the mainshaft using the 620 dimension only but some variation in the end of the shaft caused a measurement plane concern up to 008 variation recorded Please use the 1 012 dim as
23. ithin these specs install the appropriate shim that will provide proper endplay Note I could not achieve proper endplay on one trans I built with the shims I had available I either achieved slight interference or 008 endplay I tried to lap the thicker shim a few thousandths but failed to reduce the thickness after several minutes I took the shims to work with me the next day hoping to grind them No grinder was available I finally cyanoacrylated super glued the shim centered on a piece of round stock I placed four equidistant drops of adhesive set the shim and let it cure for a couple of minutes I then chucked the slug in a lathe and turned a few thousandths off To remove the shim I simply rapped the shim on the edge of a table and the adhesive broke free Another note Paul Rebold passed on this tip Thanks again Paul 8 8 pinion shims work very well to obtain the perfect total shim thickness Most shims in a TS kit have broad range and do not allow fine tuning The use of an 8 8 shim in conjunction with a TS shim allows dead on accuracy If you do not have an 8 8 collection see your local Ford dealer and order an E4DW 4663 shim kit Once the proper endplay is achieved remove the rear bearing retainer and shims temporarily Hold the reverse idler gear in position and slide the shaft through the rear case pilot and through the gear installing the o ring as it comes out The o ring keeps the reverse idler from sla
24. ll 1 2 synchro detent 89 Fork 3 4shift 28 Retainer 5 gear synchro 59 Pin 1 2 synchro detent 90 Fork 1 2shift 29 Spring 5 synchro insert 60 Shaft output main 91 Spring synchro pin detent Bearing 1 caged roller Exploded assembly view Rebuild kits D amp D 94 piece rebuild kit includes 5 8 9 10 11 19 20 23 25 27 28 29 31 32 34 35 36 37 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 48 49 50 51 53 54 55 56 57 59 62 67 73 74 79 81 83 85 92 93 Hanlon refresh kit includes 8 20 32 43 79 Front race LM67010 BCE Rear race LM67010 Bearings same LM67048 Input shaft bearing retainer Service parts if you didn t buy rebuild kits Cluster gear bearings Note if front race is still good you can use A6 bearing sets Use bearing only on front bearing and race for rear Bearing LM48548 Race LM48510 Seal UCO 159G NOK Main shaft rear bearing Bearing 25877A Timken Race 25821 Timken Tailhousing bushing 02105 Clevite Rear seal 7692 S or 7052 AA Note National Federal Mogul offers a bushing and seal kit part number 5202 available at Hi Lo O Reilly s for about 14 Thanks D Shipping info In some instances it is necessary to ship or transport a T5 some distance In those cases I offer a couple of tidbits Cut a length of 4 x 4 material or two 2 x 4 s about 10 to 12 long and secure the tranny to it by nailing t
25. m to allow oil to drain properly from the bearing Place the fourth gear blocker into position on the main shaft and hold there it helps to elevate the frontof g the tranny slightly Rotate the crescent shaped cutout of the input shaft so that it will clear the cluster gear and install the input assembly making sure the input seats fully to the mainshaft and the blocker notches clear the inserts Install fasteners and torque to 11 20 b ft Overdrive Notice the step and the lettering on the 5 driven gear they should be oriented towards the tail of the trans closest to snap ring I got a call one night from a couple of guys who were rebuilding a unit and had driven the gear on backwards took them about an hour to remove it without a press They flipped it around and it slid home Install the 5 driven gear on the output shaft then the snap ring making sure it seats in groove It may be difficult to get the gear on if so apply a light coat of oil to the output and heat the gear in the oven for a few minutes you still may have to persuade it though Install the 5 drive gear on the exposed end of the cluster gear with hub towards the front and the blocker mating surface towards rear Apply thin coat of Vaseline to the inside of the brass blocker to keep it in position and install Simultaneously install the 5 gear synchro assembly on the cluster gear and shift fork on shift rail Pay attention to orientation of 5
26. mming into the shaft boss cast into the main case Drive the roll pin into the reverse idler shaft leaving about 3 16 to 1 4 sticking above the top of the shaft Reinstall the bearing retainer shims and fasteners torque to spec 11 15 lb ft and bend the lock tabs up to contact one flat on each fastener l sd ee E tee ee T OLEEEE f pee Reverse fifth shift shaft Install the shift lever and clip on the anchor pin Locate the shift shaft block by engaging the ears into the groove of the reverse idler gear then roll it into the shift lever roller will engage lever While holding on the proper position slide the shift shaft through the case from the rear until it just passes through the block If your unit has an extension spring orient it with the long eye towards the block and slide the shaft through the center of it into the pilot bore in the front of the main case Hook the ends of the spring to the case and block pulling it forward Roll the shift shaft and maneuver the shift lever until the engagement roller is located properly in the lever Main shaft Insert the main shaft assembly by poking output shaft through hole in rear of main case Let driven gears rest on cluster gears and install rear bearing race into bore Input shaft Inspect the input shaft closely check all bearing surfaces engagement teeth and shaft straightness Sight down the shaft splines and replace the shaft if
27. n stock form let alone enhanced One of the last changes made to the T5 was to replace the potentially troublesome and cumbersome loose roller bearings shims and roller thrust bearing interface between the input and mainshaft with a single tapered roller bearing This allows higher bearing preload and subsequently less input shaft deflection and possible angularity issues Retrofitting the tapered roller appears to be quite simple if you have access to a machine shop an understanding of T5 repair and a few hours free time It also allows the reclamation of previously damaged and unusable mainshafts while increasing capacity If the idea of attempting this yourself isn t appealing Bob Hanlon offers a kit that includes a modified mainshaft and new input for about 400 as does Jeff Bordelon Srenearea o iMrerr ace Z spec Cobra T5 interface Required components Bearing Timken Set 1 or equivalent CR BR1 Federal Mogul A1 Autozone 6 99 Cup LM11710 Cone LM11749 Input shaft 93 Cobra Tremec part number 1352 085 050 Mainshaft modified per drawing below Input bearing shims variety Procedure A word of caution before proceeding The T5 Z and Cobra T5 s all with the taper
28. nt keeps it in place Cover The cover which also contains the shift forks and shift shaft is attached with ten 10 fasteners Remove the neutral indicator switch top front driver s side of trans using a 7 8 open end wrench be careful not to damage it I broke one of mine and found out later it is a Ford only item Hanlon had a used one thank goodness Try and save yourself some aggravation You ll also find an activation pin below the switch retrieve and secure it Using your 10mm tools remove all the fasteners Two 2 of the fasteners are shoulder bolts they fit in one place well two actually only and align the cover to the main case Use a screwdriver between the cover and the main case to break the seal intentional pry points provided Slide the loose cover towards the passenger side to clear the reverse mechanism and lift up Input shaft To gain access to the input shaft remove the four fasteners that hold the input shaft bearing retainer to the main case with 13mm tools and remove the retainer Rotating the input shaft notice the crescent shaped cutout in the fourth gear mate blocker like portion To remove the shaft align the cutout with the cluster gear and pull forward As you pull the input shaft take weight off the interface by wiggling pressing down on the mainshaft and watch the interface between the two there are loose roller bearings inside the input that support the mainshaft
29. removal but I cannot confirm that at this point If you have the means two or three small milled slots just below the race seat in the 1 340 diameter feature will allow a two or three jaw puller to get under the race allowing removal Tech tip from Paul Rebold If you have a bearing race that is installed in a blind recess and it absolutely positively must be removed run a bead of weld around on the race where the bearing contacts and it will fall out everytime Of course you need a new race but ae 1 246 C 616 mu ney Obs pede BO x g 2095 g1 690 1 5090 01 540 R ae i G a 426 0 520 ma H me 1 5 8 o Depth 1 690 can be eliminated Oo B 1 625 828 Bearing race cup clearance 1 5695 1 5690 1 248 Bearing race cup seat D j 1 340 1 378 Bearing cage clearance Assembly Upon receipt of your freshly machined parts clean them with an appropriate cleaner and air dry Lube the OD of the bearing race and press into the input shaft making sure it seats in the bore place the race in the freezer for a period of time thirty minutes or so prior to assembly for easier assembly Assemble the mainshaft at least from the first and second gear synchro hub forward and press the bearing onto the nose of the mainshaft making sure it is
30. ress so I placed a piece of 14 thick aluminum plate on the concrete floor and repeatedly dropped the main shaft assembly on the plate until the hub came off It took about eight to ten blows and the plate protected the end of the shaft from damage Remove the blocker 3 driven gear caged bearing and spacer if you removed the hub civilly With the retaining ring pliers expand the retaining ring and slide it off the mainshaft Slide off the spacer 2 driven gear caged needle bearing and spacer Using picks or thin screwdrivers remove the spiral retaining ring then remove the thrust washer inner and outer cones and 2 gear blocker Mark the orientation of the 1 2 synchro ring to hub Remove the ring inserts and springs From the rear of the mainshaft remove the retaining ring and slide off 5 driven gear and main shaft bearing Slide the 1 driven gear caged bearing sleeve blocker and inner and outer cones off the mainshaft Be careful during removal as there is a spring and ball or pin detent under the sleeve don t let it fall out and get away from you Inspect all components per Tremec manual as you clean and install them in the proper order Lube the caged needle bearings with trans fluid before installing into the appropriate gears When installing the first gear sleeve note the notch in the I D that engages the detent pin or ball on the main shaft Synchro assemblies can be trying I usually have to do
31. t with a hammer Congratulations You successfully completed the teardown and should have quite a pile of parts around you Clean up on aisle 9 One of my pet peeves is casting flash the other is sharp edges left after machining You should have noticed during disassembly that nearly every edge of the T5 is sharp some nearly razor I take a flat file and break all the sharp edges on all major aluminum parts While this isn t required it only takes about five minutes and if you can avoid a cut or three and then getting cleaning fluid in it it is well worth the time in my opinion If you blew third gear up the large magnet in the bottom of the main case will have many pieces of shrapnel stuck to it Carefully pick these away and wash out the main case Don t worry about removing the magnet it s epoxied in I fought the first one for about ten minutes then realized this Blow the case out with compressed air or let it air dry Inspect the cover fastener holes and make sure to remove any RTV that may be in the hole it is not uncommon to split a case with the cover fasteners if the hole is full of cured RTV it simply hydraulics the case until it fractures Repeat as required on all the other parts save for the main shaft leave it assembled for the time being If you plan to replace the tailhousing bushing do so now Remove the old seal by driving a flat blade screwdriver between the lip of the shell and the tailhousing in sev
32. them two or three times to get them together without springs flying and inserts falling out Just be patient and persistent and you ll get them in place but make sure marks are lined up Refer to the Helm or Tremec manuals for assembly details There aren t many 3 4 synchro has winged inserts the 3 4 synchro ring is installed with the chamfer or groove not the shift fork groove towards the input shaft the springs that hold the inserts in place should be installed in opposite directions on each side actually if you install both clockwise as you look at them they will be opposite The tabs or ears on the outer rings of the 1 2 synchro should be oriented so that they fall into the notches in the 1 and 2 gears if not the parts won t stack up properly And now for a little assembly Cluster gear front bearing race If you are replacing the cluster gear and desire to change the front race if it s not galled pitted or damaged it may be reused then do so now with nothing else in the main case Refer to the Helm manual for procedure and set up to correctly replace the race I initially placed races in the freezer for a couple of hours prior to installation but no longer do so as it doesn t make a great deal of difference when using a press Lube the o ring with a light coat of oil or Vaseline and apply a narrow ring of Loc tite 271 to the race just above the o ring Set the race into the case oriented properly
33. tion can no longer speed up slow down the mating gear The paper lining shown used in the early units 90 and earlier is more prone to do this than the later black friction material Kevlar However both materials can and will delaminate i Input shaft damage Ouch This happens especially with an early unit Make sure you inspect the input shaft for twists and cracks closely I did not pay attention on my first rebuild and look what I found While the twisting itself did not cause me grief the failure of all the engagement teeth on the input did When this happens the ONLY gear you will have will be fourth since that locks the input shaft to the output If you see twisting of any kind replace the input as it s a had grenade Hmm lIl take more pic s later I have at least ten clusters that exhibit all forms of failures Technical Service Bulletin 612 T 5 input to mainshaft bearing upgrade 01DEC00 A joint venture between John Pearson and Chris Neighbors I would like to take a moment to personally thank John Pearson for doing the hard part of this upgrade the actual work I managed to gather what I thought was sufficient information but John brought forth a considerable volume of important information Thanks for the effort and sharing John Scope The venerable T5 has gone through many changes since it s inception trying to keep up with the ever increasing torque output of the Mustang i
34. twisted before it has a chance to fail on you Inspect the area that engages into the pilot bearing in the end of the crank If severely scored and rough replace the shaft as well as the pilot bearing Make sure the engagement teeth are not worn or rounded over and inspect the thrust bearing and roller bearing surfaces These should be very smooth and free of defects else the tranny will make noise Remove and replace the input bearing by using a bearing separator and press a length of 1 1 4 pipe makes a perfect driver for installation Stand the tailhousing up and slide the bearing retainer into the bushing end this makes a handy stand while loading the bearings Install the bearing race into the retainer without any shims for now they will be added later after determining proper thickness to achieve zero endplay Apply a light coat of oil or Vaseline to the seal surface on the input shaft and insert the shaft into the retainer and race Apply a layer of Vaseline in the counterbore of the input and load the loose roller bearings one at a time The Vaseline serves to hold them in place until all are installed and the input is attached to the tranny Apply a dab of Vaseline to the thrust washer shim and washer and place into position in the input Look at bearing race area of the retainer and you will see two reliefs a narrow deep one and a wide shallow one The wide shallow relief should be installed towards the botto
35. with NDT again over a petty issue actually not petty based on principals that they claim but did not uphold they do have good deals on inputs and clusters from time to time but their kits uh suck IMHO Personally I prefer to deal with Hanlon Linda Bob s wife always makes me laugh when I speak with her and they had the courtesy to call me several months after I placed an order to let me know the Tremec rebuild manuals were in and overnight a part that they let slip through You cannot go wrong with D amp D or Hanlon Vendor D amp D Performance 248 926 6220 http www ddperformance com Hanlon Motorsports 610 469 2695 610 469 2694 http www hanlonmotorsports com National Drivetrain 800 507 4327 773 376 9135 tep www nationaldrivetrain com aa TTC Tremec P tp www ttcautomotive com onlineorder product asp Required tools well maybe not all required some merely desired Metric combination wrench set at least 10mm 13mm 15mm Metric sockets and ratchet same sizes as above 7 8 open end wrench reverse light neutral switch 3 16 diameter punch shift block reverse idler shaft shift forks External snap ring pliers Retaining ring pliers 6 or 8 calipers 1 travel dial indicator Magnetic base and stand for dial indicator 4 C clamp Two or three jaw puller Scribe File no fingernail file won t work Parts washer or many cans of carb
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