1980 Suzuki GS850GT Stator Replacement – by BassCliff - O-ring
Contents
1. jumped out of my hands back onto the crankcase That s a pretty strong magnetic effect If you have a couple of old long screws that fit you can use them as guides for the cover Cut screwheads off put one screw at each end of the case and slide the cover on When the magnet grabs it it will be lined up in place In the picture below I m snugging up the cover screws After got them all pretty snug with my screwdriver went back and gave them a couple of taps with my impact driver I used some medium loctite on the cover screws to guard against loosening from vibration Here am routing the stator wires along the right side of the starter and out of the slot in the back There is a bendy clip on the top of the crankcase to hold the wires in place once they leave the starter cavity _ Once the wires were in place and routed to the area behind the left side cover the fusebox area began to strip the wires and crimp on new connectors The connectors used are the insulated blade type Here s what they look like Le Al Se e 4 E y Eon E gt ap at S ed a d a ae oe Bae 4 y fol i a t E 7 TT crimped the female connectors with the smaller insulation onto the wires from the stator crimped the male connectors to the wires leading to the r r You can put your connectors where you want but consistency is usually the best Some GS owners will just solder the wires togethe2. mallet to no avail So took it out to contemplate my situation Then discovered something almost disasterous guess had been handling the stator a bit to roughly A couple of wires had come loose broken off from the windings Egads For a moment was dazed and confused But then realized that it was an easy fix A cold solder joint can be brittle and decided would just resolder the connections clipped off the strain relief zip tie pulled the white insulating cover back to expose the already tinned ends and resoldered the yellow wires back onto the copper winding wires where necessary put on a fresh zip tie for strain relief and life was good again This part came with a black insulating cover which used to cover the white insulating you see above also zip tied the black outer insulation to keep it in place cut a piece of the black insulating just long enough to cover the wires from the strain relief to the rubber grommet inside the cover as you will later see used the rest to cover the wires on the other side of the grommet the part that runs through the starter cavity Here am screwing the new stator into the cover This new part had several holes in the center so had to find the ones that lined up with my existing holes in the cover As stated earlier this was a very snug fit Instead of hitting it with a hammer this time just snugged up the screws then turned each one a half turn at a time
3. 1980 Suzuki GS850GT Stator Replacement by Bassciift a k a BikeCliff Greetings to those of you who ride the classic GS series motorcycles from Suzuki This documents my first experience replacing my stator This procedure will be very similar for other GS series bikes but be sure to refer to your bike s service manual before proceeding For a thorough background on the charging systems of the Suzuki GS series motorcycles see The Stator Papers in the GSR Forum at http Awww thegsresources com garage gs_statorfacts htm The GS Resources Forum is an excellent web community dedicated to keeping these classic bikes on the road Visit or join at http www thegsresources com And now on with the show Let s begin by disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery or removing the battery altogether and draining the oil happened to need an oil filter change at the same time was replacing my stator so the timing worked nicely Some riders will just lean their bikes to the right against something stable so that when the left crankcase cover is removed no oil will drain out Here is the left crankcase cover gasket I m holding it upside down sorry This is part number 477686 001 Before we go much farther let me apologize for the filthy condition of my bike I ve been a little neglectful lately But now that she s running better I ll get her cleaned up Moving on Remove the left crankcase cover bolts be
4. going around in a circle until the stator popped into place just as it should be Don t forget to use loctite on all screws inside the cover You don t want anything coming loose in there used loctite on the cover screws during reassembly too but not too much Next put the wires in their proper path and reinstalled the wire guides It is crucial that the big wire guide above is properly fitted with the wire in the proper channel This keeps it out of the way of the moving parts Pardon my toe This is a picture of the rubber grommet through which the yellow stator wires pass It can be a pain to thread the wires though A little lubrication may be necessary Mine had been cut and then glued back together by a previous lazy mechanic Had known would have ordered a new part Pictured below is the completed assembly ready for a gasket and bolting onto the crankcase used Zip ties to hold the insulation in place T 1 i T ry a Hy M Wy Wy The black insulation covering received with the part wasn t quite long enough So removed the insulation from the old stator wires to augment the new stuff again placed a zip tie where the old insulation slid under the new insulation to hold them both in place Here have threaded the wires though the opening that leads to the starter cavity and I m about to place the cover and gasket back in place was a little startled when while lining up the cover it
5. ld stator wires back to where they connect to the r r regulator rectifier under the left side cover you will see this mess a 4 This is where my new Honda r r is connected via bullet connectors to the old stator The Honda r r upgrade is well documented in the GSR Forum Tech Section You can see where had taped and Zip tied the connections to insulate the bare connectors You can also see the old stator wires on the left side of the connections have overheated and discolored the insulation The new bright yellow wires on the right side of the connections lead to the new r r Note that you can connect the three yellow stator wires to the three yellow r r wires in any order Here is a shot of the old stator Notice that a few of the coils have damaged insulation effectively turning them into a big hunk of copper resistance instead of a current producing coil Two of these coils were on the same leg of the stator No wonder it wasn t charging used a straight edge razor blade to remove the old gasket Then scrubbed a little with some fine steel wool to remove the residue Be careful not to leave any steel wool particles in the cover when you reassemble You cant see it too well in the picture above there s a better view in the picture below of a small tube shaped grommet that fits in one of the larger screw holes look below the razor blade in the picture above or above the screwdriver in the picture bel
6. low My bike still has the original phillips head bolts They need a few taps from my impact driver to loosen them up If would ve planned ahead they would be replaced with new hex head bolts But alas that will have to wait In the picture below the cover is loose and hanging At this point you may wish to just cut the stator wires but chose to pull everything out intact If the magnetic force is strong enough it may take a rubber mallet to encourage the case to come off also want to mention that the bolts are not all the same and must go back into their original holes started with the topmost bolt and removed them in a clockwise fashion lined them up in order so that could put them back into their proper places during reassembly Next removed the starter cover This is held on by a couple of 10mm bolts It should be very easy to remove if you have a small enough wrench to get to the back bolt Here is a view of the starter cover removed and the crankcase cover hanging loose by the wires reused the starter cover gasket If you look closely above you can see the old stator wire bundle The wire just lays along the right side of the starter then exits through the slot in the back It is held in place with a bendy clip on top of the crankcase below the carburetors This is an internal view of the left crankcase cover before removed the wiring and disassembled it ae On my bike if you follow the o
7. ou can see the black sense wire going off to the right and disappearing next to the bundle of orange and yellow wires Here you see all the new connections It looks much better than the old mess don t you think It s a good idea to use dielectric grease on the connectors to guard against corrosion In the above picture the wires from the stator are on the left side of the connections The wires from the r r are on the right side of the connections OK Now let s see if we ve done any good got out my Radio Shack multimeter to see what kind of DC voltage we will see at the battery The picture below shows 13 3 volts at idle That s a good thing That s 13 3 volts DC even with the bright lights on at idle That s right in line with The Stator Papers You ve read them by now right Here we see 15 volts DC at the battery when revving to 4000 rom This may be a little on the high side but not overly so Plus it goes down close to 14 4v when revving higher than 4000rpm I ll keep an eye on it for a while but think that s close enough You should have seen this when first bought the bike The insulation on the wires was charred and cracked like it had seen a good deal of overheating Now that I ve replaced two of the major components in the charging system r r and stator next I d like to install a new AGM battery These batteries require no service and are completely sealed No more leaking acid like you saw on my mul
8. ow Take care not to lose this piece if when it falls out Just put it back when you place the new gasket on the cover during reassembly removed the stator screws and the wire guides These may be pretty snug and also require a few light taps with the impact driver ey actually boogered up the middle wire guide screw and couldn t get it out had to leave it in place and feed the new wire and insulation under it It was kind of a pain Be cautious not to strip the screw heads Or if you have hex head bolts feel free to replace the phillips heads After the stator screws were removed started on the wire guide screws This particular wire guide where my screwdriver is located see above holds the stator wires close to the cover away from the moving parts This must be reassembled properly to ensure proper clearance Here is a picture of the completely empty left crankcase cover except for that middle wire guide screw that boogered up earlier Oops Notice above the rubber grommet in the cover near the top The three stator wires will feed through little holes in the grommet This allows the wires out but hopefully not the oil Here is a picture of my new stator which bought from RMSTATOR They also have an ebay store that usually sells this part for 10 less paid 101 including shipping At first this part did not want to fit into the crankcase cover very easily gave it a few taps with my rubber
9. r like using connectors because it makes for an easier disconnect reconnect the next time you have to do any troubleshooting Here s a package of the connectors used got these at Pep Boy s If would ve planned ahead a little I m sure these can be purchased at a local electronics store for less DADE CA RAE EUY IRSULATED Here I m crimping a female connector onto one of the yellow stator wires This is really a cheap crimping tool got it at Pep Boys too If do much crimping I ll need to invest in a good tool You might notice that I ve used a zip tie on the end of the black insulation over the stator wires This will hold it in place and hopefully keep contaminants out Actually think I m just obsessed with zip ties Here is a picture of the bullet connectors coming from the Honda r r that purchased from Mr duaneage who is a member of the GSR Forums cut off these connectors used my cheap crimper stripper tool to strip the ends and crimped on new male connectors I ve heard that these type connectors work better than the bullet connectors We ll see Time will tell But I think they look good That s what s important right Above in the background you can see the red wire from the r r got a new connector too along with the hot wire from the bike s wiring harness The black sense wire from the Honda r r kept the original bullet connectors since it s tied into the rear brake light switch Y
10. timeter pictures And so ends another chapter in the maintenance of my bike hope this helps other new motorcycle mechanics Many thanks to Ms SqDancerLynn1 and Mr lanFrancisco also of the GSR Forums for their help and encouragement Bass Cliff
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