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1. Journal of Geophysical Research Vol 91 C1 pp 933 952 353 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 KIRBY J T 1986b Rational approximations in the parabolic eguation method for water waves Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 10 N 4 pp 355 378 KIRBY J T y ZKAN H T 1994 Combined refraction diffraction model for spectral wave conditions Ref Dif s version 1 1 Documentation and user s manual Report N CACR 94 04 Center Applied Coastal Research University of Delaware KOMAR P D e INMAN D L 1970 Longshore Sand Transport on Beaches Journal of Geophysical Research Vol 75 N 30 pp 5914 5927 KOMAR P D 1973 Computer Models of Delta Growth Due to Sediment Input from Waves and Longshore Transport Geological Society of America Bulletin Vol 84 pp 2217 2226 KOMAR P D LIZARRAGA ARCINIEGA J R y TERICH T A 1976 Oregon coast shoreline changes due to jetties Journal of the Waterways Harbours and Coastal Engineering Division ASCE Vol 102 N WWI pp 13 30 KOMAR P D 1977 Modelling of sand transport on beaches and the resulting shoreline evolution In the Seas eds Goldberg E et alt v 6 Wiley Interscience New York pp 499 513 KOMAR P D 1988 Environmental Controls on Littoral Sand Transport Proc 21 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 1238 1252 KOMAR P D 1998 The Modelling of Processes and Morphology in the Co
2. ASCE pp 2159 2172 BROKER HEDEGAARD L DEIGAARD R y FREDS E J 1991 Onshore offshore sediment transport and morphological modelling of coastal profiles Proc Coastal Sediments 91 ASCE pp 643 657 BRUUN P 1954 Coast erosion and the development of beach profiles Beach Erosion Board Technical Memorandum N 44 CAPOBIANCO M LARSON M NICHOLLS R J y KRAUS N C 1997 Depth of Closure A Contribution to the Reconciliation of Theory Practise and Evidence Proc Coastal Dynamics 97 ASCE pp 506 515 CARSLAW H y JAEGER J 1959 Conduction of Heat in Solids Clarendon Press Oxford CHAWLA A 1995 Wave transformation over a submerged shoal M S Thesis University of Delaware Newark Del 345 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 CHU V C y MEI C C 1970 On Slowly Varying Stokes Waves Journal of Fluid Mechanics Vol 41 pp 873 887 CEM COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL 2002 Part III Chapter 2 Longshore Sediment Transport US Army Corps of Engineers Washington DC 20314 1000 CRANK J 1975 The Mathematics of Diffusion 2 edici n Clarendon Press Oxford DABEES M A y KAMPHUIS J W 1997 Numerical Modelling and Coastal Processes Overview of a Modelling System for Simulating Shoreline Change Proc Canadian Coastal Conference 1997 pp 161 175 DABEES M A y KAMPHUIS J W 1998 Oneline a numerical model for shorelin
3. Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Vol 10 World Scientific Singapur KARAMBAS T V 1999 Numerical simulation of linear wave propagation wave induced circulation sediment transport and beach evolution Coastal Engineering and Marina Developments WIT Press Eds C A Brebbia and P Anagnostopoulos pp 253 274 KARAMBAS T V DE LA PE A J M CHRISTOPOULOS S SANT S J C y KRESTENITIS Y N 2001 Malagueta Beach Case Nourishment Characteristics Field Surveys and Numerical Simulation Proc Coastal Dynamics 01 ASCE pp 182 191 KIRBY J T 1983 Propagation of weakly nonlinear surface water waves in regions with varying depth and current ONR Tech Rept 14 Res Rept CE 83 37 Department of Civil Engineering University of Delaware Newark KIRBY J T y DALRYMPLE R A 1983 A Parabolic Equation for the Combined Refraction Diffraction of Stokes Waves by Mildly Varying Topography Journal of Fluid Mechanics Vol 136 pp 543 566 KIRBY J T y DALRYMPLE R A 1985 Modifications to a Propagation Model for the Combined Refraction Diffraction of Stokes Waves Shallow Water Large Angle and Breaking Wave Effects Report UFL COEL 85 001 Coastal and Oceanographical Engineering Department University of Florida Gainesville KIRBY J T 1986a Higher order Approximations in the Parabolic Equation Method for Water Waves
4. model A numerical model to simulate sediment transport in the vicinity of coastal structures Instruction Report CERC 87 4 US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station 125 pp SHIMIZU T KUMAGAI T y WATANABE A 1996 Improved 3 D beach evolution model coupled with the shoreline model 3D Shore Proc 25 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 2843 2856 SHINOHARA K y TSUBAKI T 1966 Model Study on the Change of Shoreline of Sandy Beach by the Offshore Breakwater Proc 10 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 550 563 SOMMERFELD A 1896 Mathematische Theorie der Diffraction Math Ann Vol 47 pp 317 374 SPM 1977 Shore Protection Manual CERC US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA SPM 1984 Shore Protection Manual CERC US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA 361 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 STEETZEL H J DE VROEG J H y VAN RIJN L C 1998a Pilot version of the PONTOS model Definition and preliminary elaboration of a behavior oriented model for the assessment of the large scale development of the Dutch coast Joint Venture Alkyon Hydraulic Consultancy amp Research WL Delft Hydraulics Report 4066 H3159 4 Vols 159 pp STEETZEL H J DE VROEG J H VAN RIJN L C y STAM J M 1998b Morphological Modelling using a Modified Multi layer Approac
5. n del Puerto de Santander 1990 1992 Informe Final para la Junta del Puerto de Santander Universidad de Cantabria GARC A E 2000 Modelos morfodin micos de evoluci n de playas perfil y planta Tesis doctoral Departamento de Ciencias y T cnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente E T S 1 C C P Universidad de Cantabria 218 pp GIOC Grupo de Ingenier a Oceanogr fica y de Costas 2001a Modelo de Propagaci n de Oleaje Monocrom tico Oluca MC 2 0 Manual de Referencia Modelo de Ayuda a la Gesti n del Litoral Espa ol Edici n Universidad de Cantabria Ministerio de Medio Ambiente 80 pp GIOC Grupo de Ingenier a Oceanogr fica y de Costas 2001b Modelo de Propagaci n de Oleaje Espectral Oluca SP 2 0 Manual de Referencia Modelo de Ayuda a la Gesti n del Litoral Espa ol Edici n Universidad de Cantabria Ministerio de Medio Ambiente 170 pp GIOC Grupo de Ingenier a Oceanogr fica y de Costas 2001c Modelo de oleaje corrientes y evoluci n morfol gica de una playa Mopla 2 0 Manual de Usuario Modelo de Ayuda a la Gesti n del Litoral Espa ol Edici n Universidad de Cantabria Ministerio de Medio Ambiente 279 pp GIOC Grupo de Ingenier a Oceanogr fica y de Costas 2001d Modelo de evoluci n del Perfil Transversal de Playa Petra 2 0 Manual de Usuario y Referencia Modelo de Ayuda a la Gesti n del Litoral Espa ol Edici n Universidad de Cantabria Ministerio de Medi
6. pp 1584 1599 KRIEBEL D K y DEAN R G 1985 Numerical simulation of time dependent beach and dune erosion Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 9 pp 221 245 LARSON M HANSON H y KRAUS N C 1987 Analytical Solutions of the One Line model of shoreline change Technical Report CERC 87 15 US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA LARSON M 1988 Quantification of beach profile change Report N 1008 Department of Water Resources Engineering Universidad de Lund Suecia LARSON M KRAUS N C y SUNAMURA T 1988 Beach profile change morphology transport rate and numerical simulation Proc 21 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 1295 1309 355 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 LARSON M y KRAUS N C 1989a Prediction of beach fill response to varying waves and water level Proc Coastal Zone 89 ASCE pp 607 621 LARSON M y KRAUS N C 1989b SBEACH Numerical model for simulating storm induced beach change Technical Report CERC 89 9 US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA LARSON M KRAUS N C y HANSON H 1990 Decoupled numerical model of three dimensional beach range Proc 22 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 2173 2185 LARSON M HANSON H y KRAUS N C 1997 Analytical Solutions of One Line Model for Shoreline Change near Coastal Structures J
7. Coastal and Ocean Engineering Vol 111 N 3 pp 598 602 BIRKEMEIER W A 1991 DELILAH Investigator s report draft Technical Report CERC US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA BODGE K R y KRAUS N C 1991 Critical examination of longshore transport rate magnitude Proc Coastal Sediments 91 ASCE pp 139 155 BOOIJ N 1981 Gravity Waves on Water with Non uniform Depth and Currents Report N 81 1 Delft University of Technology 131 pp BOOIJ N 1983 A note on the accuracy of the mild slope equation Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 7 pp 191 203 344 Referencias BOON J D y GREEN M O 1989 Caribbean Beach Face Slopes and Beach Eguilibrium Modes Proc 21 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 1618 1630 BORGMAN L E 1984 Directional spectrum estimation for the Sxy gauges Technical Report CERC US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA pp 1 104 BRETSCHNEIDER C L 1959 Wave variability and wave spectra for wind generated gravity waves Beach Erosion Board Tech Memo US Army Corps of Engineers N 113 192 pp BRETSCHNEIDER C L 1968 Significant waves and wave spectrum Ocean Industry pp 40 46 BRIAND M H G y KAMPHUIS J W 1990 A micro computer based quasi 3 D sediment transport model Proc 22 Coastal Engineering Conference
8. EAN R G y DALRYMPLE R A 1991 Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Vol 2 World Scientific Singapur DEL VALLE R MEDINA R y LOSADA M A 1993 Dependence of Coefficient K on Grain Size Technical Note N 3062 Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering Vol 119 N 5 pp 568 574 DE VRIEND H J ZYSERMAN J NICHOLSON J ROELVINK J A PECHON P y SOUTHGATE H N 1993 Medium term 2DH coastal area modelling Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 21 N 1 3 pp 193 224 DHI DANISH HYDRAULIC INSTITUTE 2001 LITPACK Coastline evolution User s Guide and Reference Manual Lingby Dinamarca DJORDJEVIC V D y REDEKOPP L G 1978 On the Development of Packets of Surface Gravity Waves Moving over and Uneven Bottom Z Angew Math and Phys Vol 29 pp 950 962 FISCHER H B LIST E J KOH R C Y IMBERGER J y BROOKS N H 1979 Mixing in inland and coastal waters Academic Press Inc San Diego California 347 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 FUNDACION LEONARDO TORRES QUEVEDO 1988 Dise o ptimo de la canal de navegaci n de acceso al Puerto de Santander Informe Final para la Junta del Puerto de Santander Universidad de Cantabria FUNDACI N LEONARDO TORRES QUEVEDO 1992 Seguimiento y an lisis de la evoluci n del sistema de playas Loredo El Puntal y de la canal de navegaci
9. SECCI N 6 REFERENCIAS O CAPITULO 13 REFERENCIAS Referencias ABBOTT M B y PRICE W A 1994 Coastal Estuarial and Harbour Engineers Reference Book M B Abbott y W A Price Eds Chapman amp Hall Londres 736 pp ABRAMOWITZ M y STEGUN LA 1965 Handbook of Mathematical Functions Dover New York ARTHUR R S 1950 Refraction of Shallow Water Waves the Combined Effects of Currents and Underwater Topography American Geophysical Union Transaction Vol 31 N 4 pp 549 552 BAILARD J A 1981 An energetic total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach Journal of Geophysical Research 86 C11 pp 938 954 BAILARD J A 1982 Modelling On Offshore Sediment Transport in The Surfzone Proc 18 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 1419 1438 BAKKER W T y EDELMAN T 1964 The Coastline of River Deltas Proc 9 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 199 218 BAKKER W T 1968 The Dynamics of a Coast with a Groin System Proc 11 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 492 517 BAKKER W T 1970 The Influence of Diffraction near a Harbour Mole on the Coastal Shape Rijkswaterstaat Directie Waterhuishouding en Waterbeweging afd Kustonderzoek Rapport W W K 70 2 BAKKER W T KLEIN BRETELER E H J y ROOS A 1970 The Dynamics of a Coast with a Groin System Proc 12 Coastal Engineering C
10. V LO 1996 Numerical modelling of beach erosion during storm event Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 29 N 1 2 pp 187 200 L PEZ B 1996 Estudio comparativo de los modelos de evoluci n de la l nea de costa One line y los modelos de forma en planta de equilibrio Tesina de magister Departamento de Ciencias y T cnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente E T S 1 C C P Universidad de Cantabria 89 pp LONGUET HIGGINS M S 1952 On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves Journal Marine Research Vol 11 N 3 pp 245 265 MASE H y KIRBY J T 1992 Modified freguency domain KdV equation for random wave shoaling Proc 23 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 474 487 MATSUOKA M y OCHI Y 1979 Applicability of a shoreline prediction model Proc 26 Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering JSCE pp 220 224 MATSUOKA M y OZAWA Y 1983 Application of a numerical model to prediction of shoreline changes Proc Coastal Structures 83 ASCE pp 646 659 McCORMICK M E 1993 Equilibrium Shoreline Response To Breakwaters Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering Vol 119 N 6 pp 657 670 357 CAPITULO 13 Secci n 6 MICHE R 1951 Le pouvoir r fle chissant des ouvrages maritimes expos s a l action de la houle Ann Ponts Chauss es 121 pp 285 319 MILLER H C 1998 Comparis
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12. astal Zone Reflections on the Maturity of Our Science Shore Beach pp 10 22 KRAUS N C 1983 Applications of a shoreline prediction model Proc Coastal Structures 83 ASCE pp 632 645 KRAUS N C y HARIKAL S 1983 Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai beach Coastal Engineering Elsevier Vol 7 pp 1 28 354 Referencias KRAUS N C 1984 Estimate of breaking wave height behind structures Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering ASCE Vol 110 N 2 pp 276 282 KRAUS N C HANSON H y HARIKAT S 1984 Shoreline change at Oarai Beach Past present and future Proc 19 Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE pp 2107 2123 KRAUS N C y LARSON M 1988 Prediction of initial profile adjustment of nourished beaches to wave action Proc Annual Conference on Shore and Beach Preservation Technology Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association pp 125 137 KRAUS N C GINGERICH K J y ROSATI J D 1989 DUCK85 surf zone sand transport experiment Technical Report CERC 89 5 US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station Vicksburg MS USA KRIEBEL D 1982 Beach and Dune Response to Hurricanes M S Thesis Department of Civil Engineering University of Delaware Newark DE KRIEBEL D L y DEAN R G 1984 Beach and dune response to severe storms Proc 19 Coastal Engineering ASCE
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