Bernina Bernette 320 / 330 Owner's Manual
Contents
1. I PART NAMES Foce plate 2 Tension dial 3 Thread take up leve 4 Thread regu Two step presser foot amp Needle clamp screw Needle plo Hook cover 10 Reverse stitching b h length dial Hond whee Bobbin win Bobb sory b Flat bed extension tob ACCESSORIES AMpapossfooi betere Overcodingioot Zippeciool No 3 No 4 No 8 S 2 Button hole foot No 5 No 9 Can be used for all usual stitches including straight ond zigzag The use ol these special sewing feet will improve the quality ek The design of the feet may change He Large screw driver Small screw driver I Seam npper Oiler a Brush Peck of needles Quilter Seam Guide i CONNECTING MACHINE TO POWER SUPPLY Connect the mochine to a power supply os illustrated 1 Using the correct plug and switch on the machine power switch FOOT CONTROL The foot control pedal regulates the sewing speed 2 NEEDLE LIGHT To replace lamp first disconnect from power supply by removing plug from socket open face plate unscrew lamp ond replace with o suitoble new one 3 See Notes poge 6 THIS IS ONLY APPLICABLE TO MACHINES MANUFACTURED FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM SAFETY REGULATIONS IMPORTANT The wires in this moins lead ore coloured in occordonce with the following co2. ae ed 0 mm NS TRUCTION BOOK Your new sewing mochine is the product of mony years of research und development Quality matenals hove been used together with Funchonal design techniques 16 achieve an operohng efficiency and many years of dependable service Before attempting 10 sew however ond fo obtain the maximum benefits please study this booklet carefully following eoch step your machine Repeat the process until yov ore familar with the controls and their functions ime spent this stage will eliminate errors ond will result in your complete satisfaction and enjoyment CONTENTS INSTRUCTION BOOK MODELS 320 330 Page Title 1 INTRODUCTION 12 SELECTION AND FITTING OF 24 STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH 2 CONTENTS NEEDLE Not for Model 320 3 PART NAMES 13 FITTING OF SHANK AND STRETCH OVERLOCK AND QUILTING SEAM GUIDE OVERLOCK Not for Models 320 go Mino FITTING OF PRESSER FEET 26 MAINTAINING THE 5 QONNICTINGMACHINETO 14 BRINGING UP BOBBIN MACHINE NEEDLE PLATE POWER 7 TROUBLE SHOO FOOT CONTROL 15 COLOUR CODING m patar erakoak 16 STRAIGHT STITCHING 6 SAFETY REGULATIONS REVERSE STITCHING 7 WINDING BOBBIN AONO TANG EE EEE 17 ZIG ZAG STITCHING THREAD TENSION 18 BUTTONHOLING 9 UPPER THREADING 19 DARNING 10 THREAD TENSION 20 SEWING IN ZIPS 11 FOOT PRESSURE 21 OVERSEWING EDGES DROP FEED CONTROL 22 BLIND HEM STITCH TWO STEP PRESSER FOOT LIFTER 23 THREE STEP ZIG ZAG
3. SHANK AND QUILTING SEAM GUIDE Raise the presser bar and fil shank ox shown 1 Insert quilling seam guide carefully so as no to damage the holding spring 2 FITTING OF PRESSER FEET Raise the presser foot Pull the one touch lever towards you and the foot will be released Centre new foot under shank Lower shank until groove is directly above ond touching the pin Pull one touch lever towards you and the foot will become engoged 3 4 BRINGING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD Hold the upper thread in your left hand turn the hand wheel towards you so tho the needle goes down and vp again 11 Gently pull the upper thread ond the lower thread will be looped over it 2 Place both threads under the presser foot ond to the reor COLOUR CODING BUTTONHOLE 0 STRAIGHT STITCH Simply select the stitch potiern you require by rotating the pattern T selector dial lo the desired position Then match the colour code X5 ZIGZAG STITCH lee of the stitch with the some colour marking on the stitch length BUND smon The stitch length con be varied within tha colour markings on the Model dials Choose the settings according to the application and effect 330 required 3 STEP ZIG ZAG STITCH STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH k E OVERLOCK STITCH nt STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH STRAIGHT STITCHING Sot the pattern selector dial A as illustrated The stitch length is controll
4. itto just pass over or just pierce the edge of the fabric according to the effect you require Using the Nr 8 foot will prevent puckering of thin fabrics 2A MAINTAINING THE MACHINE NEEDLE PLATE To remove snop on needle plate open hook cover and prise off from the bottom from left corner using a non sharp instrument 1 Remove bobbin cose see page 8 CLEANING SHUTTLE HOOK AND FEED DOG Completely clean he area with o brush Turn the hondwhee slowly lowords you to make sure every corner hos been cleaned Take particular care to thoroughly remove the dust from around the feed dog 2 FREEING JAMMED THREAD To release any thread jammed in the hook pull the end of the thread while turning the hondwhee bock and forth 3 CLEANING AND OILING SHUTTLE HOOK Clean and oil the hook in the following manner Turn the hand wheel until he needle bor reaches ils top position Remove the bobbin cose and clean every par with o piece of oily cloth 4 Use sewing machine cil or some other high auality refined mineral machine oil DO NOT OVEROIL Your machine should be serviced regularly by your specialist deoler CAUTION When servicing or changing mechanical parts or accessories the mochine mus be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket Unplug the machine when not in use 26 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE GOO j ia l
5. de BLUE NEUTRAL BROWN LIVE NOTE As the colours of the moins lead of this opphonce moy not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug proceed os follows Connect BROWN wire to terminal marked Lor coloured RED Connect BLUE wire to terminal marked N or coloured BLACK FIT CORRECT PLUG TO POWER CORD WHEN USING A B S 1363 FUSED PLUG A3 AMP FUSE MUST BE FITTED If the terminals of the plug are unmarked consult o quol fied electrician before use When leaving the sewing machine unat tended the moins switch must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket outlet When servicing the sewing machine or when removing covers or changing lamps the machine or the electrical set must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket outlet THE MAXIMUM INPUT OF LAMP 240 V 15W THIS APPLIANCE CONFORMS TO THE STATUTORY RADIO INTERFERENCE SUPPRESSION REGULATIONS IMPORTANT The following safety regulahons must be observed without foil The moving needle is a source of danger risk of injury to fingers The sewing area must therefore be kept under constant observotion Monipu latons within the arec of movement of the needle such changing the needle or threading the machine and all manipulations with open covers mos only be performed with the me chine switched off main switch set to off position When cleaning or lubricating the machine
6. e the correct density closeness of satin stitch 1 Sew in the sequence illustrated 2 USER TIPS Always sew o sample buttonhole on some spare fobric os sertings will chonge according to the fabric used For very thin stretchy or other difficult fabrics try using interfacing vilene or tissue or other paper underneath the fobric to aid machine feeding Always use the Buttonhole loot using its colibrated markings to measure the buttonhole length On suitable fobric o corded buttonhole can be sewn faking core that the zig zag stitches of the buttonhole oversew the cord 3 Coretully cut between the sides beads of the buttonhole with the seam ripper using o pin through the end bor lock 3 to prevent the seam ripper going 100 for The lop tension may be reduced to achieve a better looking buttonhole DARNING Se the diols os illustrated and lower the feed dog 1 Remove the shonk ond replace with the Dorning foot making sure the lever is ploced over the needle clamp screw 2A To darn small holes and worn parts stretch the fabric under the foot between both hands and move 105 llustroted whilst sewing First sew round the hole B then from side to side CI Turn the fabric through 90 ond continue to move the fabric from side to side to achieve D An embroidery ring will be needed to dorn larger areas SEWING IN ZIPS Se the machine os illustrated fitting the Zipper foot 1 The Zipper
7. e guide 3 Note Some practice will be needed to obtain the best results Always lest the sti a spare piece of fabric THREE STEP ZIG ZAG Set the machine os illustrated fining the Nr 3 All Purpose foot 1 The three step zig zog stitch has o wide range of sewing opplico tions such os patching darning repairing teers mending sewing on elastic and loce oversewing edges etc on o wide range of fabrics Fig 2 shows paiching where the stitches are to the edge of the patch ond a tear where the stitches go firstly over the centre of of the tear and thes to either side but overlapping slightly on the first row The stitch length con be reduced until the stitches ore very close together This will give a stronger finish for most repairing operations STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH Not for Model 320 Set the machine os illustrated fiting the All Purpose foot 1 The straight stretch sews two stitches forword and one stitch backwards thereby giving triple strength Use it for stretch fobrics and for areos of stress where a strong stitch is required 2A 24 STRETCH OVERLOCKING AND OVERLOCKING Not for Models 320 Set the machine os illustrated using the Nr 3 or Nr B foot lor finer fabrics E for thicker fobrics E Both these stitches are designed to seom ond overlock the edge of a fabric in one operation When the needle is c its extreme right position allow
8. ed with the stitch length dial B While 2 or 3 on the diol gives c suitable stitch length for ordinary purposes the stitch length varies with the weight fabric thickness of thread ond purpose of sewing Generally speaking the finer the fabric the finer the thread and shorter the stitch length the heavier the fabric the thicker the thread and longer the stitch length 1 REVERSE STITCHING To finish a seam push the reverse bution and hold il a few stitches backwards When the button is releosed Ii machine will sew forwards ogoin 2 REMOVING FABRIC Raise the thread take up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel towards you Slide the labric from under the foot to the rear of the machine D PRESSER BAR THREAD CUTTER Hold the thread in both hands behind the presser foot Centre Ihe tau thread into the slot A and pull down to cut the thread 3 16 ZIG ZAG STITCHING The zig zag stitch can be set at various stitch widths and lengths according the opplication required Se the pattern selector dial A shown and the stitch length diol Bj between 0 Sand 1 The pattern selector dial A con be set between and 5 2 BUTTONHOLING Set the pattern selector dial A o its buttonholing position and fit the Buttonholing foot Set the stitch length dial B within the green marking to achiev
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10. foot can be moved to the left or right 2 To sew on the right hand side of the zipper move foot over to the right as illustrated ond reverse the procedure 10 sew the left hand side of the zipper 3 To move the zip slider out of the way leave needle in the fabric raise foo and slide it behind the foot Lower the foot and continue 2 OVERSEWING EDGES Oversew ng edges prevents the fabric from fraying and creates a neat edge Sel the machine as illustrated selecting o suitable stich width and length 1 When sewing the needle should just pass over the edge of the obne 2 On fabrics that ore apt to pucker use the Nr Bovercasting loot Note The 3 step rig zag stitch con also be used but use the All Purpose foo not the Nr Bfoot BLIND HEM STITCH Set the machine as illustrated fitting the Blind Hem foot 1 Fold the fabric as illustrated with the wrong side focing up wards 2 Place the folded fabric under the foot os shown 3 Turn the hand wheel towards you by hand until the needle swings over to the far left It should then just pierce the fold of the fobric 4 I it does not then adjust he position of the fabric Once the correct position of the fabric hos been set position the guide of the foot 5 up against the fold 3 4 by turning the nut 6 Proceed to sew corelully feeding the fabric to ensure 1 retains the correct position agains th
11. nderneath the fabric B or too much of the lower thread shows on top of the fabric C the tension is too loose ov too tight HOW TO ADJUST FOOT PRESSURE Varying thicknesses of fabric require odjustment of the pressure of the presser foot To regulate the pressure open the face plate and turn the pressure control dial 1 The lorger the number on the diol the greater the pressure Set the dial ot 4 for fabric of medium weight Use weaker pressure 1 3 for lighter and stronger pressure 5 6 for heavier fabrics For very thick fabric such os denim and leather use 7 TWO STEP PRESSER FOOT LIFTER For extra thick fabrics the presser foot can be raised further by lifting the presser lever o second stage 2 DROP FEED CONTROL For normal sewing the feed dogs should be in the raised position 3 Push When the fabric is not required to be fed through the machine i e for free hand embroidery or daring etc the feed dog should be lowered Posh 3 d Pen ae femen Nee Fla we SELECTING AND FITTING OF NEEDLE Select the correct size needle 10 sui the fabric and thread Usually the heavier he fobric the thicker the thread ond larger the needle Make sure the needle is straight and not damaged 1 Change the needle regularly and ot the first sign of sewing problems Insert illustrated 2 FITTING OF
12. or changing the lamp and during interruptions in sewing or after completion of work the machine must be disconnected from the power supply by pulling out the mains plug Repoirs to the electric sechon especially the changing of the lead wire to the foot control unit may only be carried out by one of our service agencies WINDING THE BOBBIN BOBBIN WINDER COVER Open the bobbin winder cover os illustrated Don t forget lo close the cover when you have finished winding 1 THREADING FOR BOBBIN WINDING Poss the thread from the spool through the guide ot the reor left 2 then back in front of the spool through the guide ol the reor right os illustrated 3 PLACING BOBBIN ON SPINDLE Push the bobbin on to the bobbin winder spindle until it is firmly engaged Needle drive will automatically be disengaged 4 WINDING THREAD AROUND BOBBIN Wind the thread by hand seven or eight times round the bobbin in the direction of the orrow on the machine and holding the end of the thread between your forefinger and thumb gently press down on the foot control pedal The thread cutter will automat cally cut the thread when the bobbin is properly filled 5 6 INSERTING BOBBIN AND CASE INTO MACHINE INSERTING BOBBIN INTO CASE Open hook cover illustrated 1 Insert lilled bobbin into case os detailed 2 Holding the hinged latch 3 insert bobbin and case into the hook moking su
13. re the finger A is located inside the section B 4 Leave about 10cm 4 ofthread from he bobbin case and always ensure thot the needle is raised fo its highest position when removing or inserting the bobbin BOBBIN THREAD TENSION Measure the bobbin threod tension by suspending the wound bobbin in its case by the end of the thread If the bobbin does not move when it is gently swung the tension is Tight iF ir folls to the ground or moves down too freely it is too loose Correct tension is obtained when it slips down a few inches lopprox 10 cm i5 Note it not normally necessary to adjust bobbin thread tension Iris usually only necessary to adjust the top thread tension when some alteration is desired See poges 9 10 UPPER THREADING Follow the numbered sequence exactly Poss the thread through the guide 1 down n between the tension discs 2 under and into the thread regulator rom right to left 3 up and through the take up lever from right to left 4 and down through the guides 5 6 and through the eye of the needle from front to bock AN THREAD TENSION To increase the top tension turn dial to o higher number to de crease the tension turn to a lower number The normal setting is 4 Normal thread tension is achieved when the upper ond lower threads ore equally set cross in the middle of the fabric on both sides of the fobric A If 100 much of the upper thread shows u
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