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Singer 6705 User's Manual

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1. 5 27 47 Tension Adjustment 18 25 General Purpose 5 For Zig Zag Satin Stitching 26 Straight Stitch 5 16 Your Personal Measurements 52 Performance Checklilist 57 Zig Zag Stitching 23 PinBasting 19 Zig Zag Stitch Patterns 23 Power and Light Switch aaua aaua a aaa 9 Satin Stitching 26 Preliminary Steps 9 Zipper Insertion 34 Form 21721 578 60 Part No 173239 a RA S TE Se ANA VI ESE i WI AA A al Tee PT e GET TE RZ Dear Customer We recommend that for future reference you record the serial number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided Refer to illustration at right for location A of serial number on Serial No your machine Serial NO e n Here there everywhere S I N G E R A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Printed in U S A Everything you need to sew up fashion is at a nearby Singer Sewing Center Fabulous fabrics plus matching thread zippers and all the trimmings that add up to fashion excitement special sewing aids like buttonholers to give your
2. For extra help in keeping the seam straight you may wish to use the seam guide Because it allows you to guide stitches between 3mm 1 8 inch and 3 2cm 1 1 4 inches from the fabric edge it is useful for very narrow or unusually wide seams URNING SQUARE CORNERS To turn na a square corner 1 5cm 5 8 inch os Stop stitching with the needle down oe from the fabric edge you need not when the bottom edge of the fabric measure or mark the seam Simply use reaches the cornering crosslines on the es the crosslines on n the slide o plates YA slide plate Ya ee Be ee e Raise presser foot and turn fabric on o o Line up your fabric with right or left f n a ot fabric o heavy guideline on the needle plate Sri ae gt Stitch seam slowing Speed as you ap Se e Lower the presser foot and stitch i in n new proach c corner ee Kaa direction Bele naya cerner SE u Cornering l SE E Grossiines a 21 22 Stitching a Curved Seam Reverse Stitch Lever CURVED SEAMS 1 Use a short stitch for elasticity and strength For example if you use 12 stitches to the inch stitches approximately 2mm long for straight seams select 15 to 20 per inch stitches approximately 1 5mm long to stitch curved seams in the same fabric If you use the seam guide to guide stitch ing attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide REINF
3. Side Stitching 32 Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the garment and include interfacing if ap propriate BUTTONHOLE LENGTH First decide how long the opening needs to be This will depend on the diameter and thickness of the button To find the right length cut a small slit in a scrap of your fabric and gradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily Then add at least 1 8 inch or 3mm 1 16 inch or 1 5mm for each bar tack the closing at each end of buttonhole and mark the fabric as il lustrated This bar tack measurement is ap proximate on some buttonholes you may need to increase it to arrive at pleasing proportions STITCH WIDTH SETTINGS Next determine the two stitch width settings that you will need one for side stitching and one for bar tacks Settings 2 and 5 are il lustrated below although other combinations may be used as long as combined widths of side stitching does not exceed the width of the bar tacks OOA fi a l QU Selector AA par Tache PROCEDURE FOR MAKING BAR TACK BUTTONHOLES With needle position dial at L set stitch width dial on 2 for side stitching of buttonhole Place work under needle aligning center mark ing of buttonhole with slot in the presser foot Side Stitching Position needle in fabric at point A Lower the foot and stitch to end of marking Leave needle in fabric at p
4. 19 Raising Bobbin Thread 15 Pressure Adjustment 17 Winding 11 12 Principal Parts and What They Do KA 3 Bobbin Case 13 54 Repairing Seams 2 46 REMOVING 54 Repairing Stretch Garments 46 Threading eee ee ee 13 Reverse Stitching 17 Border Designs 44 Satin Stitching 26 Buttonholes eee 28 Seams Re ee ee 19 Buttons 27 Corded 35 Caring for Your Machine 53 Curved sele eee 22 Choosing Needle and Thread 10 In Fabrics That Havel 37 Daring 47 Lingerie o 40 Fabric Thread and Needle Table 10 Overedged 41 Finishes for Hems and Facings 39 Plain Stretch eee 40 Free Arm Sewing 48 Reinforcing End of Seam o 22 Guiding and Supporting Fabric 20 39 Straight
5. Start and finish sewing with take up embroidery lever in its highest position ae E IF THREAD BREAKS o WA SR o isi the machine gt properly threaded l eds the spool pin felt t being used d under isthe bobbin case properly threaded the thread spool Su e Sewata moderate speed SLOW speed a Adjust stitch length pressure and si setting when using the straight stretch n thread tension to suit EET RRR 7 l u stitch or r Flexi Stitch patterns ns Is thread unwinding freely from spool Is the needle thread tension too tight mu s Is the needle securely tightened in the Is the bobbin thread tension too tight needle clamp a e Is the bobbin case area free of lint and Is the needle straight meses AR ce __ loose thread ends Is the thread suitable for the s size of the Are the thread guides and tension discs u needle and free of irregularities also free of lint E o IF FABRIC FAILS TO FEED Is the presser foot down ie Isthe stitch control dial properly set e Is pressure dial adjusted properly for e Are you using the feed cover plate in he weight and texture of your fabric stead of the regular needle Plate ee Enjoy Sewing I af you have any guestions please v write to The Singer Company Consumer Affairs Department 321 First Street Elizabeth N J 07207 57 9 SEWING AIDS 58 Even Feed Foot Hemmer Foot spec
6. 21 Hints on Sewing Special Fabric 42 43 SEWING Aids 58 59 Cire Wet Look Taffeta and Tricot 42 Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics aaa 38 Deep Pile Fabrics Fake Fur 43 Slide Plate 56 Leather Look Vinyl 42 Stitch Control Dial 16 17 24 Velvet and Velveteen 43 Stitch Pattern Dial 24 Light Bulb 56 Stitch Width Dial 16 25 Mending a Tear 45 Starting to Sew 16 Needle 4 10 Straight Stitching 16 Position 16 24 Choosing Accessories 16 Replacement 4 Curved Seams 22 Threading 14 Starting a Seam 20 Needle Plates 5 Straight Seams 21 Changing Needle Plate 7 Turning Square Corners 0 0 0 0 21 Feed Cover Plate
7. clothes a designer touch pamphlets and books to tell you how to sew like a pro all these and many more products are always available at Singer And if you need any sewing help Singer experts are always glad to supply advice and suggestions
8. polyester coe rege 50 mercerized cotton O S a decorative twin needle stitching Use v with 50 mercerized cotton or uy silk i in bobbin 10 threading the machine is at ts h ighe 12 Winding Steps 1 Place thread spool on spool pin over the spool pin felt Lead thread between tension discs as shown around thread post and through small hole in bobbin from the inside out Place bobbin on spindle and engage winding mechanism by moving bobbin and spindle toward the right Hold thread end as shown and start the machine Cut off thread end when winding is well under way When required amount of thread has been wound move bobbin and spindle to the left to disengage winding mechanism full bobbin will automat ically stop winding cut thread and _ remove bobbin from spindle Tighten hand wheel knob by turning it away from you with your right hand while holding t the hand wheel with your left hand Engage Bobbin Winder Latch Hold Thread End to Start Winding 1 Hold bobbin s SO o that the thread unwinds a pul thread into notch in n bobbin c case in direction shown and put bobbin in draw it under the tension spring and bobbin case ee SE GE SS into the slot y SS 3 Draw approximately four inches 1 Ocm o of thread diagonally a across the bobbin 13 THREADING THE NEEDLE 1 Turn hand wheel toward you to r
9. BULB sure you have disconnected power line plug from electrical outlet Removing Bulb With thumb of right hand Nu push in and down on tab of light lens and lower the light bracket Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb Press it UP into the i REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE You WIII not have any occasion to remove the slide plate However if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine it is easily replaced Raise the presser foot and make sure needle is in its highest position Place slide plate in slide way with the front edge close to but not covering the retain ing spring as shown With a small screwdriver lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the underside of the plate Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring Close slide plate Caution Before changing light bulb mak u socket and at the s same time turn bulb over r in direction shown to unlock the bulb pin Replacing Bulb Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin entering slot of _ socket and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position Push entire as sembly up u until it t snaps li in position a ma high ae bar setting t to place o pia or R right needle positions ing ies straight stitching i in a S el heavy fabric under presser foot KO Remove feed cover plate after button Al u sewing and after r free motion 1 arning
10. JE REN ee la La a da o U 7 E Ma Mu i We Noe gt A N A T o o S Ju a aoe a aE A Ma a 4 s S i i fi ae e E WA 7 HE i ji Mj JAJE u Nu a dl Ta BU o WED KOJA fi DT ji ai AM EE A S Hi aoaaa T BIA y G LH L R x N NN nan it Hf E WE D i pii La Rt Pei WA ROG E ITE WA oe i BA dll WA URI jasi i He j S Ji H Na b IUT o mt im pes H X N ld o S h TE WA do his Ht HA i i lo in i 0 v KI ih hi Hi ZI S ii YS H i te We 0 j i N Hh ure N YA u i ag gis MAK WA Pei 7 ji e R S he th He aa A NI JU Te i A S aenn de NA Si KOT i i ue WA i i R li et a WAWA UMU ji i al a ey il iiai file jt j da i pei di G 1 i u i i DG TMI H UG i H o S H f i N a N i om ki Je o a 7 es i ha ll i 4 E da o JU U Ce o A O ae MA LL ve NT a n omo dd SS MM WAA i _ H R Bi iii T ih a 7 if Hp p PRAE i E S 7 O Sk JI i a i Ju G JU MI E 7 IH 7 Hh ii WA j h H RiR a E i WA H T Ah 4 AA He a a ji A ON JA U i dl a A a a i SI O o Si i ES a S S o MA a 7 a a Hs i 7 ji JI ki ath j i H S YY AS o ja H JI ari SS Ud oo i G principal parts and what they do 1 11 12 13 14 15 16 Stitch Pattern Dial can be set to produce a smooth straight stitch or a practical and decorative zig zag stitch Tension Dial lets you select just t
11. Loosen knob for bobbin winding accessories The following accessories come with your sewing machine 1 BOBBINS No 172222 e One drop in steel bobbin in your machine e Extra drop in steel bobbins with your ac cessories 2 NEEDLES IMPORTANT Your SINGER sewing machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER needles You should follow the recommendations in this instruc tion book and on the needle package for cor rect style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric In place in your machine Style 2020 15x1 With your accessories e Style 2020 15x1 needles for all purpose sewing e Style 2045 ball point Yellow Band needles for sewing synthetic knits and stretch fabrics Changing the Needle The needle clamp has been designed so that the needie can only be inserted with the flat side of the shank toward the back 1 Raise needle bar to its highest position loosen needle clamp screw and remove needle 2 Insert new needle in clamp with the flat side of the needle to the back and push it up as far as it will go 3 Tighten needle clamp screw 3 TENSION SCREWDRIVER No 161295 Designed to fit the bobbin case tension screw this screwdriver makes adjustment of bobbin thread tension quick and easy For instruc tions on bobbin thread tension adjustment see page 18 4 GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT No 172904 AND NEEDLE PLATE No 383133 The g
12. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use and ex amine it A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers Needle Thread Tension The tension dial regulates the degree of ten sion on your needle thread Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings If the stitches in your test sample look loose increase needle thread tension If the fabric puckers decrease tension e To increase tension turn dial to higher num ber e To decrease tension turn dial to lower num ber Bobbin Thread Tension Bobbin thread tension is controlled by a screw located on the bobbin case You will seldom need to adjust bobbin thread tension since it is usually possible to obtain the correct bal ance by adjusting needle thread tension alone On those rare occasions when it becomes necessary to adjust the bobbin thread ten sion use the small tension screwdriver fur nished with your accessories A very slight turn on the screw nearest the thread slot on the bobbin case will produce a noticeable change in bobbin thread tension e To increase tension turn screw clockwise e To decrease tension turn screw counter clockwise sewing a seam PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time Saver and can be used in place of hand basting when you are str
13. clockwise 13 LOCKING KEY Small No 381271 The smaller of the two locking keys furnished with your accessories is used to unlock the hinged plate to convert machine from flat bed to free arm sewing To unlock plate insert key into hole in plate and turn key coun terclockwise To lock plate in flat bed posi tion turn key clockwise Refer to page 48 for instructions on converting machine to free arm sewing CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES NOTE Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when needle plate is replaced 1 Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot 2 Open slide plate Remove needle plate by placing thumb under plate and lifting it up and out 3 Position new plate over the two pins and release Needle plate is drawn into posi tion by magnets 4 Close slide plate gi Needle ng CHANGING PRESSER FEET Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot Loosen presser foot screw and remove the foot Hook new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw USING THE FINGER GUARD Positioning the Guard Before raising or lowering the guard turn off the power and light switch This will avoid the possibility of accidentally starting the machine while the needle is unguarded Raising the Guard To thread and replace the needle and change the presser foot e Position the needie above the needle pl
14. eee eee AA eee eee ee aeaaee e re a eae eee eea aeea aeea eee e Ka eee e sa aeaee aessa eee ae l eee eee esaeas ee eee eea eea d aeae D s a s s s lt s s s s s ey 6 Sewing the Professional Way Construction Detalls aaa EE a Zippers e Corded Seams e Blindstitch Hems e Seams in Fabrics That Ravel Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric Stretch Stitch Chart e Guiding and Supporting Fabric e Finishes for Hems and Facings e Plain Stretch Seams e Lingerie Seams e Overedged Seams e Mock Overedging Hints on Sewing Special Fabric Leather Look Vinyl e Cir e Deep Pile Fabrics e Velvet and Velveteen Decorative ToucheS eee eee eens Border Designs e Applique Keeping Up Appearances Mending a Tear e Blanket Binding e Repairing Seams e Repairing Stretch Garments e Darning O i i aaee ae eae eee aaeeea asees aae eae eee sese ee I I I NN CT 7 Free Arm Sewing eee eee ee ee 8 Caring for your Machine Cleaning the Machine Removing Covers Bobbin Case and Bulb Performance Checklist II aos a soa s a n a a l l l ll E E eaa aeaaea I l a eee aaea a ees e a s E E E E E E E E E E E E ea l M l ee aeea e 5 E E E E E E E E RR E E A TE
15. electrical receptacle 3 Tilt machine back and remove four screws indicated in illustration A rubber cushion Will be removed with one of the screws Pull cover toward you to remove 4 Replace bottom cover by aligning screw holes in cover with screw holes in machine Push cover against machine to snap it into place Replace and tighten four screws 5 Insert plug into electrical receptacle and replace retaining bar and nut Screws Removing and d Replacing E Bottom Cover 54 Bo ACES bi y A NT a U ENS EA o APO ES rast Bobbin Case bbin Case l a REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE _ Holder 1 Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take up lever to its highest position 2 Open slide plate remove needle plate see oe SVM C gt Z o page 7 for instructions and remove bob lt PQ RI A so 3 Turn bobbin case holder to back as far as it will go 4 Lift out bobbin case REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE 1 Turn hand wheel to raise take up lever to its highest position 2 Insert bobbin case with a back and forth motion so that the front of the case is under the position plate as illustrated 3 Turn holder all the way forward to lock bobbin case in position 4 Replace bobbin and needle plate and close slide plate N Position Plate Replacing the Bobbin Case 55 Lift t Retaining Spring Yo Y into Slide Plate Grooves Replacing the Slide Plate CHANGING THE LIGHT
16. o o Lingerie Seam E Sd oe os OVEREDGED SEAMS e Pattern Overedge Stretch S e Stitch Width 5 onlyt e Needle Position A e Stitch Control STRETCH e Speed In SLOW range e General Purpose Needle Plate e Overedge Foot Seams in knit and stretch fabrics can be joined and finished in one operation when you use the overedge stretch stitch Procedure 1 Make a test sample before beginning gar ment construction to test machine settings Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test and use a ball point Yellow Band needle if you are sewing a syn thetic Knit fabric 2 Cut and fit the garment in the regular way using a 5 8 inch 16mm seam allowance Baste seam line 3 Trim seam edge evenly to a scant 1 4 inch 6mm from seam line basting 4 Place trimmed seam under the overedge foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seam line and zig zag stitches fall over the seam edge MOCK OVEREDGING GD e Pattern Slant Overedge 3 see page 23 e Stitch Width 5 e Needle Position A e Stitch Control STRETCH e Speed In SLOW range e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot vrnn When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of the construction of the fabric a mock overedge finish can be applied This finish is appropriate for bulky knits fine tri cots and fabrics that curl or ravel Procedure 1 Make a test sample to check machine ad justments bef
17. or texture never allow the stitch to be too wide When appliqueing make a test sample to help you decide which of the following methods is more appropriate for your fabric and design Preparation e Baste applique design to fabric Outline design with straight stitching use a short stitch e Remove basting and press e Attach special purpose foot and general purpose needle plate Method 1 1 Set stitch width dial Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch control 2 Outline the entire design with applique stitching 3 Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors Method 2 1 Trim outside edges close to straight stitch outline of design 2 Set stitch width dial Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch control 3 Overedge the design with satin stitching This step will produce a smooth lustrous finish that requires no additional trimming keeping up appearances Many zig zag stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sewing The multi stitch zig zag a built in pattern forms a firm flexible bond that is ideal for re pairing tears MENDING A TEAR e Pattern Multi Stitch Zig Zag e Needle Position A e Stitch Width 2 to 5 e Stitch Control Approximately 20 1 to 1 5 e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot 1 Trim ragged edges 2 Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for rein
18. stitch width and stitch length to give the most open stitch that will secure the fabric edge avoid harsh over stitching 3 Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance 4 Trim seam edges evenly as shown after stitching is completed Method 2 Overedged Seam Finish e Pattern Plain Zig Zag i Blindstitch I or Multi Stitch Zig Zag e Stitch Width 4 or 5 e Needle Position A e Stitch Control 8 to 20 approximately 1 to 3 to suit stitch and fabric e Genera Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot 1 Adjust stitch length and stitch width to suit your fabric 2 Trim seam edges evenly 3 Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam allowance as illustrated AWWA WWW VIA TRV PIM MAN mu a Trimming Edges L Be oe 37 sewing knit and stretch fabric When you are sewing stretch fabrics double Remember to use a ball point Yellow Band nee knit tricot or jersey choose one of the stretch dle Style 2045 in the machine and increase patterns that build s t r e t c h into the seam presser foot pressure when you are attaching The table below will help you make the right elastic or sewing a synthetic knit or stretch selection fabric STRETCH STITCH CHART a a Ric Rac smear o a Hadad al all purpose stretch sewing gt See S Stitch Pattern Chart on n Page je 29 a _ Reversible topstitch applic tio ons es _Blindstitch_ PE
19. turns on machine and sewing light simultaneously FAST and SLOW speed range settings let you choose the best sewing speed for your work Needle Position Dial places needle in either L left A center or R right stitching position Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig zag stitching and positions the nee die for straight stitching Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths also has a special stretch setting amp for straight or zig zag stretch stitching Reverse Stitch Lever instantly reverses stitching direction at the touch of your finger Buttonhole Dial controls steps in sewing round end buttonholes Dial must be in OFF position when not in use Built in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area Pull down bracket makes it easy to replace bulb Hinged Plate converts machine for free arm sewing Needle Clamp is designed to eliminate the possibility of inserting needle back wards Slide Plate opens easily lets you see bobbin Seam guidelines extended from needle plate have crosslines to help you turn square corners Presser Foot Lifter at back of machine allows you to raise and lower presser foot Extra high lift position permits easy placement of bulky fabrics Bobbin shows thread supply is easily removed for winding Speed Controller is designed for your convenience and safety controls the speed of your machine Hand Wheel Knob engages hand wheel to sewing mechanism
20. 20 needle As seam is stitched smooth pile away from seam allowance with a darning needle or upholstery pin After stitching seams with a 5 8 inch 1 6cm seam allowance use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk Stitch 1 4 inch 6mm preshrunk tape into neckline and shoulder seams for stability and reinforcement or stitch with the straight stretch stitch stitch control set on amp Leather and leather look fabrics complement fur fabrics use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and finished with a 3 inch 7 6cm fabric facing or gros grain ribbon Slash through the center fold of darts and finger press open or stitch with a narrow zig zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after stitching VELVET AND VELVETEENT Use a light pressure dial setting to prevent crushing pile Mark and baste with silk thread Use a Style 2020 size 9 or 11 needle anda fine thread for seaming A silk or nylon thread is recommended for sewing velvet and velveteen Always stitch in the direction of the nap from Seam Allowano Fabrics Fake Fur gt e Pin or hand baste seams and sew under gen tle tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and back of needle see page 20 Ex tra long straight seams may be machine basted with a long wide zig zag stitch To sew panne velvet use a ball point Yellow Band needle and
21. A GA C D BM Pe dele VO E PoP OR PTE ON SUE ES RO Sik GEM H CPP PPE RSE QE POD TL N A Wa oR Z Hoe yg 4 i PRL RR EL AS wee AMNA NASA LA d 4 KRENE o Ude 7 3 T H L N at ae H LAN Aen KN ANTRAL IIE IS L h y A y Lc AA er JR vO 27 28 Horizontal ement on Crosswise Grain buttonholes You have a choice between two buttonhole styles and two buttonhole making methods round end buttonholes made with the built in buttonhole system of your machine and bar tack buttonholes with square ends made man ually in four steps Round end buttonholes can be made in light and medium weight fabric bar tack buttonholes are best in lightweight fabric BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment evenly spaced and on the grain of the material 1 For center closures mark the center line of the garment as indicated on your pattern This guideline can be made by hand bast ing The space from the center line to the finished edge of the garment must be at least equal to three quarters the diameter of the button With this spacing the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned Make sure that the center line marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread 2 Mark a position guideline for each button hole e Horizontal buttonholes are placed to ex tend 1 8 inch 3mm beyond the center l
22. Control 10 to 15 approximately 1 5 to 2 5 e General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate e Zipper Foot 34 Adjusting the Zipper Foot When the zipper is to the right of the needle 1 Loosen the thumb screw at the back of the foot and slide the foot to the left of the needle 2 Check the position of the foot by turning the hand wheel to lower the needle into the side notch of the foot making sure it clears the foot 3 Lock the foot into position by tightening the thumb screw 4 Lower presser bar Make sure the needle clears the foot on all sides of the notch When the zipper is to the left of the needle adjust the foot to the right of the needle in the same way CORDED SEAMS The corded seam is a professional treatment for slipcovers children s clothes blouses and lingerie To make a corded seam make the welting first or buy it ready made at a notions counter then stitch it into the seam 1 A Eu l e Pattern Straight Stitch 0 a e Stitch Width amp e Needle Position A e Stitch Control Slightly longer than for regular seaming e General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate e Zipper Foot Making a Corded S Making the Welting aking a Corded seam 1 Buy cable cord of desired size 2 Cut bias strips of fabric to cover cord width three times the diameter of the cord plus 1 1 4 inches or 3 2cm If it is necessary to sew strips together to obtain desir
23. Correct satin stitching Satin stitching a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth satin like surface is useful for both practical and decorative work The plain zig zag stitch for example is suitable for bar tacks and appli gue when closed up to form a satin stitch The Flexi Stitch patterns however have a single stitch length setting and cannot be satin stitched When you wish to produce a satin stitch make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly Soft fabrics may reguire a backing to ensure firm satin stitching Crisp lawn or organdy is suitable for this purpose For best results use the special purpose foot DIAL SETTINGS e Pattern Plain Zig Zag e Needle Position A e Stitch Width 2 to 5 e Stitch Control In FINE area e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot or Special Purpose Foot Adjusting Stitch Length 1 Set stitch control dial at bottom of FINE area Run machine at SLOW speed Gradually turn dial downward until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth sur face Adjusting Thread Tension Satin stitching requires less tension than Straight stitching or open zig zag stitching Furthermore the wider the satin stitch the lighter the tension on the thread must be Notice the stitching on your sample If the fabric is puckered lower the needle thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lo
24. F lexible blindstitch hemming Overcast a Built in Pe Pattern a a seam finishing Shell hems in lingerie EES Overedge seams that stretch Crotch seams Waistband and seam finishes i In shorts and sls suit N S it and Swimsuit Nu o Overedge Stretch Built in Pattern o o Sweater a and ee construction Over ae Slant Overedge S Stretch Stitcht ee alku knite UES see Stitch attem Chart o on Page 23 WA This s stitch is designed f for strength and permanence and cannot be readily ripped out without risk of fabric damage 38 GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches Some fabrics nylon tricot and elasticized fabrics for example do require support while being stitched CAUTION Do not pull the fabric while you are Stitching as this may deflect the needle caus ing it to break e For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits apply gentle tension by holding the seam in front and back of the presser foot as you Sew e For elasticized fabric stretch lace and Knits with an unusual amount of elasticity apply firm tension in front and back of the presser foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are being placed FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS e Pattern Multi Stitch Zig Zag or Slant Overedge Stretch 2
25. IC WA WA ea pi i Y SU if R L di i 0 He y i NI 7 i Hi m E ji jili 1 ji Ii JA ja 4 SAM a H R U MI de 7 a i NO WA MBUA HAWA DG WA i i O RANAH fi HER He Hh SI E SS AA a Ao Ca y Ji iy a a H 7 Hie Hy ie Ve S a a a ti i SIJA S da A o 7 ca He o i Le O ndo o S JU VIA dl WA NI SA A AAA AKU da T O NN AA A o cc o i ji RARA RHEE Riihi id HE Hi M Su He HAL SHBG S RI ih i PEA j WA i i b Hf f BAT U j I Ku N i i I ds fi WA ja Um 7 Yi Hi nn ji YA JA geg if ja Ue 4 S ll did en gh lg ad Sam dd Ji AJ o o o WI WI o WA AAA a Ju 7 AN NA o ji a a AA A o o o dd WAIT U a S fi i SI i Co T Blu 7 H o JU H L if 7 TI Hi DIT i HH ji a ji Ji 777 it ie A i i i 0 S Hi 4 U i E W Jj Ha AL YA Ho i d i a Ju MI i W N i i fe nb gb j SZ e y o o AA o o Se SR 17 WAW a a i a UA Ao H A a L TIT MC f i o o 7 AA Hi Bain Me j gn gi A T X AA Ne As d Wheel if Ni Mu N UL He Benu TEE SE hee yA JA E iD Jaki if He II i i a A ji HRY Jimai i dl do Ma 7 iji JA a T Ud o lt lt S L Hi f ie ET T T T nas VRT San ia ony He EN e 7 aa a i WA MAA Hi a ea ti i oo AA WWW AA Hi O 7 i We o o MU W Wi ti ri et i it 7 de ii i HE K U i a ji Py j n Hy A yA u HH K Si i C He A l y TARI Miki JA fi L Le opti V k i y pili ang S N S ME ji i 0 S bra ir al va i R a 7 JAK a noo MI u 7 I aa apie HEH PARE ji H ji H We a ey TRD A
26. ORCING END OF SEAM 1 Stitch almost to the edge of the fabric 2 Press reverse stitch lever all the way down and hold in place Backstitch approx imately 1 2 inch 1 3cm to reinforce end of seam Stop the machine and release lever Raise needle to its highest position raise the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar 4 ALL ABOUT ZIG ZAG STITCHING two kinds of zig zag stitches The zig zag stitches built into your machine include basic zig zag stitches and Flexi Stitch patterns In addition to the obviously decora tive uses of these stitches some also serve practical purposes Under the section called Sewing the Professional Way beginning on A L k L wW N Ata H NVA AY WX an d Y This stitch is designed for strength and permanence and cannot be readily ripped out without risk of fabric damage BASIC ZIG ZAG STITCHES AND THEIR DIAL SETTINGS page 34 you will find instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these stitches All of the basic zig zag stitches and some of the Flexi Stitch patterns are charted below When sewing Flexi Stitch patterns set speed range at SLOW 23 adjusting dials SETTING PATTERN DIAL To unlock dial see instructions on page 6 Before moving the dial make sure needle is above the fabric Push the pattern dial in and turn it until de si
27. RRAREN L b W o TOO Id do JA AN 7 7 i MO d di a A Hi a i a 7 i n i He i i Ji a ia S T di ih j H Heri a a i MAO KAA AAA KA KOD ee WA i iE MI u ji MU en ay x ay a e Ja Bakkin Wi da ARENA RRN Pala PESEE HE MENI KO ESTE TL ER QZ ii up Mal if A YA i He ja Ma RTE u gt ka A A BBA i fizi AA UU wi Stop and Spinde R ji de ae ije SON fil U iru i BHT pe He Ai i TE Hie WU De Hh HO hi f Hie CG i i hi NI A I Iyo oe ey Pea eee E TN 77 ANA n ji a Hh a a dd Ms ancien Dial S No 17A n 777 IIA A Xd re e LAR e NG e Lu o NN TA eS ee hand P a do a ON Lo H A pp Ij cu i Ab E U Ju 7 Pad Ty le 0 3 te NA 3 cu Ne ME MU o e WA do i 3 de AAA ae e K P wa AA ay i KAMA on T SU KRON T SA a HAE ie LT TH A R m NJ WA Lee NI da S e 7 TA AN s Rum as 2 NENO Liddle NU 7 co XS S ia ty R Hah YR e ar i Mi b LM vt Ji 7 Ji if i Hh l i x Y AA H 7 JI th bt SMN a 5 a Hi T a 7 MI ji He MA i SB lt jia dd O li NIT YA lk a el laid ji Hone NAN T O AE JR H i i ji oe ifiji PO Wes aad eu ae ii i i i JE Hh 7 L T i Hi JI ji No Face P dan EEE 7 MA oe AKI AAA AA MI JE UNI OC Nee C A DODIK i E WAA bat ji r E i R i i i l if Y T Hf biti i H MU i i a o ji i He i WA f j Hl ey A i E E oe N S E S o 7 k A ars d i iana y eke ya a R Ga L ee eee ee Oe i ce f oO no 7 o g ii O FL
28. Two Stitches A Diagonally Across s the Point 7 A UNE Turning a Sharp Corner on n Leather Look viny CIRE Wet Look Taffeta and Tricot T Do not use pins in any area of the garment that will be visible when completed Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams zip pers and hems in place for stitching Stitch accurately seams cannot be ripped out because needle marks remain in the fabric Sew seams under gentle tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and back of needle Stitch cir taffeta with a fairly long stitch 8 to 10 straight stitches per inch and use an enclosed edge finish for seams and hems Stitch cir knits with a medium length stitch 12 straight stitches per inch and use a fine ball point Yellow Band needle Machine worked buttonholes as well as bound buttonholes can be made in cir fab ric Always use an interfacing and make sure the close zig zag stitches do not cut the fabric The EN Even Feed Foot t described on page gt 58 is 3 designed to aid in sewing this fabric 42 DEEP PILE FABRICS Fake Fur Pin rather than baste seams Place pins at short intervals at right angles to the seam line Pins with colored heads are easy to see and remove Sew in direction of nap Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch set tings of 8 to 10 or approximately 2 5 to 3 and use polyester cotton thread in a size 14 or 16 Style 20
29. a shorter than normal stitch length settings of 12 to 15 or ap proximately 1 5 to 2 tThe Even Feed Foot described on page 58 is designed to aid in sewing this fabric 43 decorative touches BORDER DESIGNS Border designs that add a decorative touch to wearing apparel and household items can be created by combining different types of straight stitching and zig zag stitching Simple or elaborate delicate or bold they can be var ied to suit the application Use them as you would a braid or to simulate horizontal vertical or bias stripes on plain fabric Procedure Mark or crease fabric for the center line of first row of stitching If spacing between rows is not greater than 1 2 inch 1 3cm gauge additional rows with the presser foot If spacing is wider p a LS v r ve vr es r e r e r e v ba r r e OS Method Z 1 Trimming after Stitching 44 mark for each line of stitching Use a backing of crisp lawn organdy or organza and be sure to make a test sample on a swatch of your fabric to check stitch settings and thread tension APPLIGUE Appligue adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens You can create your own design trace a simple outline from a col oring book or use a motif cut from a printed fabric Fabrics of like or different texture com bine egually well Use a closely spaced fairly narrow zig zag stitch Although you may vary stitch width to accommodate fabric weave
30. ae a Sarre PAMTE aera ete eee AAA eh RAH i ie i His geil oe OU U ij shite i 7 G ij a i iji Manna i 7 JE D bi HU gaj KD ERE rar pa nae aa eira zap an Ba NA LIL NEAR pe Graduate Zig Zag amp Stretch Sewing Machine by SINGER Congratulations The new Graduate Zig Zag 8 Stretch Sewing Machine Model 6705 you are about to use will take you into a wonderful new world of sewing The Model 6705 Flip amp Sew sewing machine features a hinged bed for free arm sewing and you will also enjoy e the simplicity of dial controls Now you can simply dial a stitch length a stitch width pressure and tension settings even buttonhole stitching e built in stitch patterns which let you produce a straight stitch and a variety of zig zag patterns by simply turning a dial plus Flexi Stitch patterns for stitching knit and stretch fabrics and producing intricate stitch designs e one way needle clamp makes it impossible to insert needle backwards e stitch control dial that lets you switch from regular to stretch stitching e guidelines on both sides of the needle plate which help you keep seams straight e convenient power and light switch that gives you a choice of two speeds e easy needle plate changing needle plate secured by magnets is easy to lift out for cleaning e three position presser foot lifter that lets you place bulky fabric or many fabric layers under the presser
31. aight stitching seams in easy to handle fabric Use fine pins and place them so that e They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line e They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot Never place pins on the under side of the fabric in contact with the feed Withdraw pins from fabric as you stitch Sew ing over pins is not recommended PLACING FABRIC Most fabric can be placed under the presser foot by raising the presser foot lifter to its nor mal up position When placing bulky fabrics such as coating Knit or terry cloth or multiple fabric layers you will find it convenient to raise the presser foot lifter to the high rise position Hold lifter in position since it does not lock while placing fabric under the presser foot Make sure the lifter is all the way down before starting to sew Normal up ma Position Presser F Foot at the Stitching Line T n anr Pin n Placement When MA Bean Guide Is Not Used NR ear ae ji YA tao O Ot a AES MS i q aan VOAN Be reda eher A NOON T aa PRONA AO a ex Os Laad T Position 19 20 Starting a Seam Guiding and Supporting Fabric Applying Firm Tension n u u Stitching a Seam o NJ STARTING A SEAM 1 With presser foot raised turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in fabric about 1 2 inch 1 3cm from starting ed
32. aise nee e Thread tension discs as illustrated die and take up lever to highest position Raise presser foot to release tension discs e Thread take up lever from back to front Swing finger guard out of the way to the guiding thread down over top of lever and left See page 8 then up into eyelet 2 Place spool of thread on spool pin over the e Thread needle from front to back drawing spool pin felt Lead thread through all num about four inches 10cm of thread bered points as shown making sure to through eye of needle gt Gy Ta T O NG En Hee ott aaa oe a I ud rd T Yan N peter i ald U A rn U M 6 AT eee it ES L WWW WALA Slip thread horizontally bet ween tension discs from the top Llp hei ted d a ea Pa U mn Banana AINA KA am ii PES N aa adardi P k Rr oe ee in j H 3 U j X N y S E ata H aaae gt Anos WA U TT WA TTT I a Pa AAA Wi aaa AA YA a o ats Rabkin ares ES weed Taran anes pr PATA weaned pa reenn rA T ya rede u eased DAA A gt aan C KLE TTS te IA Pa d K LL SL spring and under guide on left side Za Za E Li APA Allow spring to return to its normal up position and con tinue threading the machine 14 RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the
33. and bar tack buttonholes are stitched through three thicknesses of fabric Testing Buttonhole Length garment interfacing and facing after the fac ing has been attached TEST SAMPLE Always make a test buttonhole in a sample of your fabric to determine suitability of button hole style buttonholing method and machine settings Be sure to duplicate the number of fabric layers in the garment and include inter facing if appropriate Remember too that loosely woven and medium weight fabrics re quire buttonholes with wider side stitching than firmly woven or lightweight fabrics Fin ally check to see that the opening for the but ton can be cut without damaging buttonhole stitching CUTTING BUTTON OPENING Place a pin across the cutting space at each end of the buttonhole to protect end stitching Use a pair of small sharp scissors to cut the button opening Insert blade in center of but tonhole cutting space and cut from this point in either direction 29 ROUND END BUTTONHOLES UN Mrr E E R K aT E OPAL u ma att Z L ZR U ABE Pon AEREA NET i Button Buttonhole Length Guide 30 Markings Buttonhole Foot Cutting Opening Space gt Stitching End LT TIT Length of Buttonhole Button Stitching Opening Buttonhole Length First decide how long the button open
34. and household linens can be darned effort e Pattern Straight Stitch lessly and quickly with little practice You may Needle Position A choose to darn either with or without an em Stitch Width A broidery hoop When greater control is needed Stitch Control In FINE area an embroidery hoop is usually best e Feed Cover Needle Plate e No presser foot Without Embroidery Hoop e Pattern Straight Stitch 1 Trim ragged edges from area to be darned Needle Position amp Stitch Width amp e Stitch Control 10 to 15 approximately 1 5 to 2 5 3 e Pressure DARN e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot 4 2 Center worn section in embroidery hoop Position work under needle over feed cover plate and lower presser bar to engage ten sion Hold needle thread loosely with left hand turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin thread up through fabric Hold both thread 1 If area to be darned is open baste an under lay in place ends and lower needle into fabric 2 Place area to be darned under presser foot 5 Outline area to be darned with a single line lower presser foot and start stitching al of straight stitches for reinforcement ternately drawing fabric toward you and 6 Stitch across opening moving hoop under pulling it gently away from you needle at a slight angle from lower left to 3 Continue this forward and backward motion upper right Keep lines of stitching closely as you fill the ar
35. asurements carefully with an accurate tape measure The illustrations show where tape measure should be placed when taking each measurement As a Starting point use a ribbon firmly but comfortably tied at the waist before taking measurements ah ON O 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 52 Bust Fullest part slightly higher in back L o aooo Waist Around natural waistline ee Hip inches cm below natural waistline fullest part Shoulder From base of neck to top di arm 00 1 nooo Front Bodice Width From arm hole to arm hole 5 inches 13cm down from center shoulder ww Back Bodice Width From arm hole to arm hole 4 inches 10cm down from center shoulder ww Shoulder to Bust From neck base at shoulder to point of busSt O Front Waist Length From neck base at shoulder over fullest part of bust to waistline Back Waist Length From the prominent bone at base of neck to natural waistline Sleeve Width Around arm at upper edge of underarm Seam occ n a nao O Sleeve Length Shoulder to elbow a Sleeve Elbow to Wrist 0 Front Skirt Length Down center fr
36. ate by turning the hand wheel toward you e Swing the guard out to the left and raise it to the position shown Lowering the Guard For sewing and bobbin winding e Position the needle above the needle plate by turning the hand wheel toward you e Swing the guard down and position it as far to the right as it will go Z i ARE Sed iiini K errr H Wa R a EN NOSA os a T en one Using the Guard The finger guard can be used with all of the accessories supplied with your machine and many of the Special Accessories available at your local Singer Sewing Center The standard sewing procedures outlined in this instruction manual should be used except as noted below SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS Darning with an Embroidery Hoop When using the feed cover needle plate for darning with an embroidery hoop as explained on page 47 swing the finger guard out of the way For hoop darning with the finger guard use the general purpose or straight stitch needle plate Follow the same sewing procedure with all plates Using the Seam Guide To avoid the possibility of interference be tween the finger guard and the seam guide lower the finger guard and the presser foot before positioning and securing the seam guide to the machine Needle Up To Lower the Guard 2 GETTING READY TO SEW preliminary steps 1 CONNECTING MACHINE Before plugging in your machine be sure that the voltage and number of cycles in
37. control on amp setting This reinforced stitch is both strong and flex ible It is ideal for knit and stretch fabrics and particularly useful for repairing or strengthen ing curved seams or seams that will receive strain when worn 1 Make a test sample to check dial settings 2 Remove loose thread along the break and press the seam edges together 3 Re stitch along original seam line guiding seam under presser foot without stretch ing fabric letting the machine move the fabric to make the back and forth stitches that give s t r e t c h to the seam Overlap stitching one inch at each end Press seam open REPAIRING STRETCH GARMENTS cc EERE e Pattern Plain Zig Zag e Needle Position A e Stitch Width 3 to 5 Stitch Control 20 approximately 1 to 1 5 or to suit fabric e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot lann Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized garments retain their elasticity when stitched with the plain zig zag stitch This stitch is par ticularly effective when used in topstitch ap plications as shown or to overedge Make a test sample to check dial settings Bar Tacks Bar tacks to reinforce points of strain are made with the plain zig zag stitch at satin stitch length Use them at pocket corners to attach garters secure shoulder straps belt loops and zipper openings DARNING Worn or torn spots on children s clothes knits With Embroidery Hoop
38. dicated at the right end of the machine conform to your electrical power supply To connect machine insert the power line plug into your electrical outlet 2 OPERATING MACHINE AND CONTROLLER To turn on both the machine and sewing light and set speed range slide the power and light switch to the selected range e The FAST setting allows for full speed ca pacity of the machine It is best for long straight seams easy to handle fabrics and general sewing where a variety of speeds is needed e The SLOW setting allows for maximum con trol at lower sewing speeds Use this setting for special jobs such as button sewing buttonhole making and where construction details require close control CAUTION We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before changing needles presser feet or needle plates and when leaving the machine unattended This elimi nates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller To run the machine press the speed con troller The harder you press the faster the machine will sew within the selected speed range saith Al K o T brte SS 3 AA MAJENA adar 1 nne EAE Veeri AAA ZAZA i u ereas we aaron Eere re roc HE 4 R ie ME on et oe X SD POWER amp LIGHT Power and Light Switch choosing needle and thread The needle and thread you choose will depend selection Refer to it before s
39. dle and Thread Threading the Machine Winding the Bobbin e Threading the Bobbin Case e Threading the Needle e Raising the Bobbin Thread 3 Straight Stitching Preparation ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Starting to SQW ser ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Adjusting for Your Fabric SEWING a SEAM 21 ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Pin Basting e Placing Fabric e Starting a Seam e Guiding and Supporting Fabrice Keeping Seams Straight e Turning Square Corners e Curved Seams e Reinforcing End of Seam 4 Zig Zag Stitching ee ee ee ee nes Zig Zag Stitch Patterns Adjusting Dials ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee nee Setting Pattern Dial e Adjusting Stitch Placement e Adjusting Width of Design e Adjusting Needle Thread Tension e Adjusting Stitch Length Satin Stitching 5 Buttons and Buttonholes ButtOns ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Buttonholes Re Round End Buttonholes Bar Tack Buttonholes A eae l l l eee l l O I n x sassa a aeaee eaea aaea aaa aeaaaee ll l l l l l l l n 0 sa s a a a WI AA ss eea eaae i aeaaea aae aaeeea eaea aaa aaea
40. ea with parallel lines of spaced and even in length stitching For additional strength cover 7 When opening is filled cover area with area with crosswise lines of stitching crosswise lines of stitching Darning without Embroidery Hoop 47 7 FREE ARM SEWING Fabric handling when sewing tubular and hard to reach garment areas is simplified when you convert your machine to free arm sewing A few of the sewing jobs for which you will find the free arm particularly useful are shown below and on pages 49 through 51 You will discover many more for yourself To convert the machine for free arm sewing unlock the hinged plate as instructed on page 7 Then simply press down on the corner of the hinged plate as illustrated To convert your machine back to flat surface sewing raise the hinged plate of the machine Press Down on Corner of Hinged Plate until it snaps into flat surface position BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS Stitching buttonholes or sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband is no longer a task when the free arm surface is used Cuffs slip around the sewing surface Without being pulled out of shape so you can see and handle the stitching area easily For buttonholing follow the instructions that start on 1 page 28 Button sewing n _ struction is given on 1 page 27 de 48 SLEEVES Free arm sewing takes the difficulty out of topstitching a sleeve The armhole ro tates smoothly unde
41. ed length join on the lengthwise fabric grain 3 Fold bias fabric strip over cord raw edges even 4 Adjust zipper foot for use on eft side of nee dle 5 Lower the presser foot 6 Stitch close to cord do not crowd stitching against cord pulling gently on the strip both in front and in back of the zipper foot Stitching Welting into Seam 1 Attach zipper foot for use on right side of the needle so that the bulk of the fabric will fall to left 2 Stitch welting to the right side of a single seam edge guide the edge of the foot next to the cord but do not crowd 3 Place the attached welting over the second seam edge and pin or baste together 4 Place work under needle with the first u S Crowd Foot Against Cord stitching on top so that you can use it as a Samu rowd root against vor guide Stitch crowding foot against cord 35 BLINDSTITCH HEMS e Pattern Blindstitch e Stitch Width 2 to 5 to suit fabric e Needle Position A e Stitch Control 10 to 20 approximately 1 to 3 e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot e Seam and Blindstitch Hem Guide Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible It is best suited to straight or slightly curved hems Taped bound turned or unfinished hem edges can be blind stitched with equal ease Blindstitching takes a little practice however so make a test sam ple first 1 Mark turn and press hem in the u
42. eneral purpose foot and the general pur pose needle plate are in place on your machine Ideal for all utility sewing these fit tings can be used for either straight or zig zag stitching Always use them together when alternating between straight and zig zag stitching 5 STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT No 181545 AND NEEDLE PLATE No 381316 The straight stitch foot and the straight stitch needle plate are used when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control These accessories recommended for all straight stitch sewing are especially helpful for edge stitching and collar pointing or for stitching delicate or spongy fabrics 6 ZIPPER FOOT No 161166 The zipper foot is used for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams 7 OVEREDGE FOOT No 163374 Overedge foot used with overedge stretch stitch for seams in stretch fabrics 8 BUTTONHOLE FOOT No 381255 The buttonhole foot is used to make round end buttonholes 9 SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT No 163483 The special purpose foot is used for all kinds of decorative stitching 10 FEED COVER PLATE No 171138 The feed cover plate replaces the needle plate when fabric feeding is not desired Use it for button sewing page 27 and free motion darning page 47 Buttonhole Foot Attaching Seam and Hem Guide Locking and Unlocking Dial Controls 11 SEAM AND BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE No 161172 The seam guide will help you to stitch seams of perfec
43. er the red line For reverse stitching simply press reverse stitch lever all the way down and hold in place Release lever for forward stitching Note Reverse Stitching is not recommended when using a Flexi Stitch pattern REGULATING PRESSURE See page 6 for instructions on how to unlock the face plate for access to pressure dial The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric Correct pressure is important because it means fabric feeds smoothly and evenly The NORM nor mal setting is an all purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weights and textures Intermediate notched settings above and below NORM are also provided When you need extra con trol to sew very heavy fabric use the MAX maximum setting Lower the presser foot before setting pressure e To increase pressure turn dial from NORM toward MAX e To decrease pressure turn dial from NORM toward DARN e For darning set dial on DARN Red Line Setting for Stretch Stitching Reverse Stitch Lever 17 Too Loose E 7 Boe RATIO AENA Em arriero PRI RAI YA NA PETA Po door le THRE D TENSION ENE TED b 18 Increase SE Decrease Bobbin Thread Tension ml 3 A REGULATING THREAD TENSION Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker
44. ess nee dle thread tension than straight stitching Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch pattern you have chosen The stitches should lie flat against the fabric with out causing the fabric to pucker If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered lower the needle thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH Any stitch control setting in the numbered area will give you an open zig zag stitch of the pattern you select except Flexi Stitch pat terns The triangular symbol on the dial desig nates the FINE stitch area and is used for the adjustment of zig zag satin stitching see page 26 for specific instructions To produce the overedge stretch stitch or any other Flexi Stitch pattern refer to stitch pat tern chart the stitch control dial must be set on the amp symbol Simply turn the dial down ward until the symbol is centered under the red line No further adjustment is necessary When using the amp setting of the stitch control you cannot backstitch the stitch pattern TR Needle Thread Tension __ THRE TENSION 0 du AAA PC Ra Too Tight _ 25 26 S a E mm mm ian cd _J ams I ae CA AN 3 MM a eroe BARA RARELY ee ee Ree BOE ITU YA VAA YA Adjusting Thread Tension THRE TENSION v EBS SE aya A At ASAS WA A aranana
45. foot e built in sewing light that illuminates the sewing area Your SINGER sewing machine is the key to your sewing success when used properly To achieve professional results SINGER suggests you sit down at your machine and go through this book step by step before you begin to sew You will discover all the many advantages of sewing with your Graduate sew ing machine Enjoy sewing SINGER Service is always close at hand If your machine should need servic ing call your local SINGER Sewing Center to be sure of warranted SINGER Parts and Service You will find the address in the telephone directory under SINGER COMPANY TRADED RL TR SPR REREAD SOU AD A PRAG a ka haa Ma Ya og arly tobias WI Aa ot Wa aS PT a p Ra en fa nO RR eho agr NCETM PCA Pl SAR errad YA R ena NA MR A A RR MTG EUG ea TRC LM ASRS A nL A agona es A NATA TO DN RET a MI IR STE EA STEN E AT TA A TR A TED RSS E RM AR A AELTER i TA INEA A A TR EAE AE RL A A K A A A A A RA a Copyright 1978 THE SINGER COMPANY All Rights Reserved Throughout the World CONTENTS 1 Getting to Know Your Machire Principal Parts and What They Do Accessories sasa eea aae eae eee aaa eee aK 6886686666868668 866 aaaeeeaa aae aaaea aaaeeeaa eaae eaea L l eee Ae eee l Aaaa 2 Getting Ready to Sew ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Preliminary Steps see ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee eee an Choosing Nee
46. forcement It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since you will be bringing the edges together in the next step 3 Stitch on the right side bringing the edges of the tear together Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength 4 Trim underlay BLANKET BINDING Often you can make an old blanket look almost new by replacing the binding A zig zag stitch pattern such as the plain zig zag or multi stitch zig zag or the semaphore Flexi Stitch pattern may be used e Pattern Desired zig zag stitch see above e Stitch Width 5 e Needle Position A e Stitch Control amp _ for Flexi Stitch pattern or approximately 15 to 20 1 5 to suit stitch and fabric e Pressure NORM or less e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot or Even Feed Foot t 1 Make a sample to determine correct dial settings Reduce pressure on fabric and increase stitch length if necessary so that blanket feeds freely 2 Remove worn binding and baste new bind ing securely in place 3 Stitch and remove basting ANS A A IA 0 WA N os AN KORE ia NM H ze a CN 9 e SS LN a tFor best results in blanket binding the Even Feed Foot is recommended available for purchase see page 58 45 46 REPAIRING SEAMS Breaks in press open garment seams can be repaired guickly and easily when you use the straight stretch stitch stitch pattern 4 stitch width A and stitch
47. ge Lower the presser foot 2 Press reverse stitch lever all the way down and hold in place Backstitch almost to edge of fabric for reinforcement 3 Release reverse stitch lever and stitch in forward direction GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot Some fabrics however re guire support while being stitched as shown These fabrics reguire using the straight stitch presser foot CAUTION Do not pull the fabric as you apply gentle or firm tension while stitching as this may deflect the needle causing it to break e For filmy sheers knits tricot etc apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and back of the presser foot e For stretch fabrics apply firm tension front and back when stitching in the same direc tion as the stretch For seams not on the stretch direction stitch in the conventional manner guiding fabric in front of the presser foot KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT Using Guidelines E 5 1 0cm 3 8 To keep the seam straight use one of the guidelines on the needle plate The numbers indicate distance in centimeters from the needle If you want a 1 5cm 5 8 inch seam for example line up your fabric with the un Cornering numbered heavy guideline Note that both Crosslines heavy guidelines the most commonly used are extended on the slide plate for your con venience the crosslines serve as cornering guides when stitching a square corner
48. he right tension for your stitch thread and fabric The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings Tension Discs controlled by the tension dial regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread Bobbin Winder Tension Discs regulate thread tension for bobbin winding Self threading Take up Lever controls flow of needle thread Pressure Dial regulates presser foot pressure on fabric It has an all purpose sewing setting plus settings for extra light and extra heavy pressure and for darning Face Plate unlocks and swings open for access to pressure dial Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience Presser Foot holds fabric against feed Finger Guard is a safety feature to help prevent fingers from accidentally getting in path of needle Feed moves fabric under the presser foot Needle Plate secured by magnets lifts out for removal Guidelines on right and left sides of plate help you keep seams straight Spool Pins hold spools of various sizes for threading machine and winding bobbin Bobbin Winder Stop and Spindle let you fill bobbin guickly and easily Bobbin Winder Thread Post guides the thread when winding the bobbin Hand Wheel controls the movement of the take up lever and the needle Always turn it toward you 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Power and Light Switch
49. ial accessories for special jobs Sewing Aids have been designed to increase the versatility of your sewing machine and enable you to give your sewing that extra pro fessional touch The ones described below are just a few of the complete selection available at your local Singer Sewing Center Professional Buttonholer No 381116 The Professional Buttonholer sews six kinds of buttonholes plus eyelets in a wide variety of fabrics You choose the style and length and make perfect buttonholes every time Even Feed Foot No 506415 The Even Feed Foot is effective in keeping fabric piles even and in matching plaids stripes and patterns It is an invaluable aid for sewing hard to feed vinyl and fake fur pile stretch bonded and laminated fabrics Ideal for topstitching Hemmer Foot No 171145 Narrow hems can be turned and stitched in a single operation if you use the hemmer foot Thus you can eliminate basting or pinning whenever you are making ruffle edges lingerie finishes and the like Ruffler No 161561 This accessory offers a simple effective way to make gathered and pleated ruffles The ruffler is used for straight stitching only Binder Foot No 81200 The binder foot is used to apply ready made bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an un finished edge It can also be useful for binding seam edges that might ravel Guilting Foot No 160691 The guilting foot is especially well adapted to stitching lightly
50. ine of the garment as illustrated so that the buttons will be in the center of the figure when the garment is fastened Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a crosswise fabric thread and be longer than the finished length of the but tonhole Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically e Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the center line of the garment is in the center of the buttonhole as illustrated Mark the ends of each buttonhole hori zontally across the center line basting and use the center line marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching BUTTONHOLE LENGTH A buttonhole length should be just long enough to allow the button to slip through the opening without stretching it You can estimate the proper buttonhole length by measuring the width plus the thickness of the button To make sure the measurement is correct cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of the button you intend to use Increase length of opening until button slips through easily This test is particularly advisable for buttons of unusual shape or thickness BUTTONHOLE INTERFACING It is almost always wise to use an interfacing in the buttonhole area An interfacing holds the fabric firmly so that a neat buttonhole may be stitched and keeps the finished buttonhole in shape Interfacing is essential when the fab ric is loosely woven or is a crepe or knit that stretches easily When planning your garment remember that both round end
51. ing must be This will depend on the diameter and thick ness of the button as explained on page 29 Then add 1 8 inch 8mm for end stitching 1 16 inch or 1 5mm for each end of the buttonhole This end stitching allowance is approximate and should be increased slightly if the but tonhole is to be stitched twice Fabric thick ness and thread diameter will also vary end stitching depths so be sure to check measure ments by making a test buttonhole Mark but tonhole position and length on fabric See page 28 for placement information Buttonhole Stitch Width The stitch width setting designated by symbol is an approximate setting use it to make your test buttonhole You may need to increase or decrease stitch width slightly to suit your fabric to arrive at more pleasing buttonhole proportions or to change the width of the buttonhole cutting space When making stitch width adjustments remember that as stitch width is increased the cutting space in the center of the buttonhole is decreased ated aa ae one ama meen te Starting Position Procedure Place garment under buttonhole foot so that buttonhole position marking is centered Align center gauge line of buttonhole foot with center line of garment Lower the presser foot and rotate button hole dial downward until symbol for step 1 is centered under red line click indicates engagement Start machine and let it complete step 1 of the buttonholing cycle
52. ly only SINGER oil at points indicated below SINGER oil is specially prepared and does not contain harmful deposits that can interfere with the smooth action of precision parts Approximately once every year remove top and bottom covers as instructed on page 54 and clean and lubricate all moving or rotating machine connections to ensure freedom of movement and to protect metal parts from ex cessive wear To determine which connec tions are moving or rotating turn hand wheel slowly by hand while covers are removed 7 A s rok ang sav SAA U dj UG 53 removing covers bobbin case and bulb CAUTION Before removing covers bobbin case and light bulb disconnect power line plug from your electrical supply REMOVING AND REPLACING TOP COVER Move take up lever to a low point and lower the presser foot 1 Unlock and open face plate as instructed on page 6 2 Loosen and remove screw A lift up right end of top cover and slide cover toward left and off machine 3 Replace cover by positioning it on top of arm with a slight overhang on left side 4 Be sure bobbin winder spindle is dis engaged move it to the left and slide cover to the right as far as it will go Replace and securely tighten screw A TO REMOVING AND REPLACING BOTTOM COVER 1 Unscrew nut and remove plug retaining bar at right end of machine A NARA iso 3 Wa ske SAAR 7 NE i 2 Disconnect machine plug from
53. ming sleeve insertion and construction seams in sportswear and swimsuits Procedure 1 Make a test sample to determine the cor rect thread tension Be sure to insert a ball point Yellow Band needle in the machine if you are stitching a synthetic knit fabric 2 Stitch and guide fabric as you do for plain seams stitched with the regular straight stitch letting the machine make the back and forth stitches that give s t r e t c h to the seam If fabric has an unusual amount Straight Stretch Stitching _ 40 of elasticity it should be stitched under tension as instructed on page 39 Guiding and Supporting Fabric 3 Press seam as when using the regular straight stitch LINGERIE SEAMS e Pattern Plain Zig Zag e Stitch Width 1 to 2 e Needle Position Stitch Control 12 to 20 approximately 1 to 2 General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot To make a lingerie seam durable and flexible use the plain zig zag stitch at a narrow width setting This seam treatment is particuiarly suitable for bias seams When seaming nylon tricot insert a Yellow Band needle in the machine before you begin to sew e Straight stitch the seam dials set on black symbols on wrong side of fabric e Press both seam allowances in the same di rection e From the right side topstitch with narrow zig zag stitching letting the needle alter nately enter the seam line and the seam thickness parr
54. needle you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the needle hole in the needle plate 1 Hold needle thread lightly with the left hand and turn the hand wheel slowly toward you so that the needle enters needle plate 2 Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop 3 Undo the loop with your fingers 4 Place needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and draw both threads to back and left of needle To regulate needle thread and bobbin thread tensions see page 18 You are now ready to sew 15 3 STRAIGHT STITCHING 16 Regular Straight Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate o 0s WM ca f x 4 Att Stretch Stitch Stitch Settings Setting Starting to Sew TM e Pattern Straight Stitch ji e Needle Position A e Stitch Width A e Stitch Control To suit fabric e Straight Stitch Needle Plate or General Purpose Needle Plate e Straight Stitch Foot or General Purpose Foot preparation Before you set the dials for straight stitching turn the hand wheel toward you until the nee dle is above the needle plate SETTING THE MACHINE 1 Set pattern dial selector at 2 Move needle position dial to A 3 Set stitch width dial on A 4 Set stitch control for desired stitch length For regular straight stitching turn dial to a numbered setting for straigh
55. oint B Raise the foot and pivot work on needle Lower the foot Take one stitch without changing width setting bring needle to point C Bar Tack Adjust stitch width for bar tacks and take at least six stitches Stop at point D Side Stitching Readjust stitch width for side stitching Complete work to point E Leave needle in fabric Final Bar Tack Adjust stitch width for bar tacks and take at least six stitches ending at point F Fastening Stitch To secure stitching move stitch width dial to and take three stitches Remove work draw threads to underside fasten and trim Place a pin across the cutting space at each end of the buttonhole to protect end stitching Use a small sharp scissors to cut the button opening Insert blade in center of buttonhole cutting space and cut from this point in either direction Final Bar Tack 33 6 SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY construction details ZIPPERS At the notions counter in your Singer store you will find many different kinds of zippers one of which will be just right for whatever you wish to sew How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the loca tion of the zipper The zipper package will con tain easy to follow instructions And if you use the zipper foot you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper LT e Pattern Straight Stitch e Stitch Width A e Needle Position A e Stitch
56. om waistline to hem nuaoananaa naaa ran nan Back Skirt Length Down center from waistline to hem 2 O PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART Full Length Waist to floor at side Seam Bee o ee Pant Length Waist to ankle ee A Crotch Depth seated Waist to chair at side seam 22 O Crotch Seam standing Crotch depth 17 to be deducted from pant length 16 3 CO EPT waver my C d K A E NE cm o 8 CARING FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE cleaning the machine Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few moments of your time to keep it clean How often you will need to clean the machine will depend on how often you use it CAUTION Before cleaning your machine dis connect power line plug from electrical supply Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts Witha soft cloth clean e Tension discs presser bar and needle bar e Take up lever and thread guides e Bobbin case If there is a lot of lint in the area remove bobbin case for cleaning See page 55 for instructions e Machine surface If necessary dampen the cloth and use a mild soap Unlock and open the face plate as instructed on page 6 and clean area behind it with a brush Remove needle plate as instructed on page 7 and using a brush clean the rotating hook area under the needle plate and slide plate After cleaning app
57. ore beginning garment con struction 2 Cut and fit the garment allowing for 5 8 inch 16mm seam allowance Baste seam line 3 Place seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the seam line basting 4 Press after stitching and trim away fabric to produce a narrow seam When the seam Supports the garment omit the trimming step tif a narrower stitch width is desired as for overedging fine fabric use the general purpose foot in place of the overedge foot 41 hints on sewing special fabric LEATHER LOOK VINYLT Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams zip pers and hems in place for stitching Stitch with a long stitch 8 to 10 straight stitches per inch A short stitch may cut the fabric Sew with a steady even pace and stitch ac curately Seams cannot be ripped out with out leaving needle marks in the fabric The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick to metal surfaces Use a strip of tissue paper between the fabric and metal machine sur faces to prevent this Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with interfacing Bound buttonholes are the best choice for vinyls with knit backing Topstitching holds seams and garment edges smooth and flat and adds a decorative note For sharp points on collars and lapels take one or two stitches diagonally across the point to allow enough space to enclose the seam edge smoothly Take One or r
58. padded fabrics It is excellent for the placement of straight stitching in block floral or scroll designs This short open foot permits following curved lines with ease and accuracy Darning and Embroidery Foot No 161875 This foot is recommended for all types of free motion work It is ideal for embroidery monogramming and decorative designs because the transparent toe fully reveals the line of the design to be followed Button Sewing Foot No 161168 This short open foot holds any two hole or four hole button securely for stitching The groove in the foot can be used to hold a needle over which a thread shank can be formed 59 INDEX Accessories 4 Presser Feet ooo 5 16 Adjusting Dials 00000 ooo ooo ooo cocos 17 24 Buttonhole Foot 5 30 Applique 44 Changing Presser Foot 7 Bar Tacks 46 General Purpose Foot 5 Blanket Binding L 45 Overedge Foot 5 41 Blindstitch Hems 0000020020020 36 Straight Stitch Foot 5 Blindstitch Hem Guide 4 36 ZipperFoot 5 34 Bobbin 4 11 Presser Foot Lifter
59. r the needle so that you can place stitching a accurately The extra control afforded by the free arm is especially helpful for topstitching flat fell seams Badges emblems and insignia of all sizes and shapes can be guickly attached to shirts and uniforms by slipping sleeve or hard to reach area over the sewing surface 49 EDGE FINISHES The free arm surface makes it easy to finish sleeves pant legs and waistlines These circular garment areas rotate smoothly around the sewing surface giving you full visibility and control as you blindstitch hems attach elastic or topstitch cuffs 50 DARNING AND MENDING Knees elbows and other areas of wear in children s clothes sweaters jackets and shorts become readily accessible for darning mending or patching when the free arm surface is used The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg areas making it unnecessary to open seams or roll the garment For darning follow _ the instructions on page 47 and refer to page 45 for mending information BAR TACKS Bar tacks reinforce areas of strain and can be applied to ready made garments as well as to those sewn at home Use the free arm surface to avoid fabric bulk around the needle when you apply this detail to pockets plackets and waistlines 51 your personal measurements This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements You will need the assistance of someone to help you to take the me
60. red zig zag stitch pattern is between the red lines To produce a Flexi Stitch pattern the stitch control dial must be turned until the symbol amp appears under the red line e Push In e Rotate e Release 24 II ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT To unlock dial see instructions on page 6 Before moving needle position dial move stitch width to 5 and make sure needle is above the fabric Needle position setting A places the needle in center stitching position Settings L and R place the needle in left and right stitching positions at stitch widths less than 5 Setting A is used most often Settings L and R are for special placement of stitching For example an L setting is required for bar tack buttonholing and button sewing An L or R setting can be used to place narrow zig zag stitching to the left or right of center in decora tive work To adjust stitch placement turn needle posi tion dial until desired setting is aligned with red line e Adjusting Stitch Placement TA ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN To unlock dial see instructions on page 6 Before moving dial make sure needle is above the fabric To produce a zig zag stitch turn the stitch width dial to any setting between 1 and 5 The higher the number the wider your stitch will be A stitch width setting of 2 or more is recommended for Flexi Stitch patterns ADJUSTING NEEDLE THREAD TENSION Zig zag stitching usually requires l
61. see page 23 e Stitch Width 5 e Needle Position A e Stitch Control 8 to 20 approximately 1 to 3 for Multi Stitch Zig Zag or amp for Slant Overedge Stitch e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fab rics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge finish Edge finishing with the slant overedge stitch or multi stitch Zig zag eliminates the bulk of turned in edges and retains fabric flexibility 1 Make a test sample to check thread tension and stitch length if you are using the multi stitch zig zag 2 Place stitching about 1 2 inch 1 3cm from hem or facing edge 3 Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line a PA E L AA ISA AAA a AYNIY YY VVAA A a aa RT KE See A A L AAA A y A voy i A 39 PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS Pattern Straight Stitch A Stitch Width A Needle Position A Stitch Control amp General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot When you use the straight stretch stitch to seam knit stretch and elasticized fabric s t r e t c h and strength are built in as the seam is being sewn Because it is equally use ful for closed or press open seam construction and will not break thread under stress the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain when the garment is worn For example crotch sea
62. sual way 2 Baste a guideline 1 4 inch 6mm from top of hem edge 3 With the work wrong side up turn the hem under creating a soft fold about 1 4 inch 6mm from top of hem _ Basted Guideline f 36 Seam and Blindstitch Hem Guide Place hem edge over feed of machine with bulk of fabric to the left Screw seam and hem guide into hole at right of slide plate and adjust it over the right toe of the presser foot so that it rests next to the soft fold _ Stitch so that straight stitches fall on hem edge and sideward stitches pierce the soft fold While stitching guide the fold evenly against edge of hem guide When stitching is completed swing guide out of position before raising presser foot Remove basting stitch SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel There are two ways of finishing seams in such fabrics trimming seam edge or overedging Make a test sample first to deter mine whether method 1 or method 2 best suits your fabric Method 1 Trimmed Seam Finish e Pattern Plain Zig Zag i or Multi Stitch Zig Zag e Stitch Width 4 or 5 e Needle Position A e Stitch Control 8 to 20 approximately 1 to 3 to suit stitch and fabric e General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot 1 Select the stitch pattern that best suits your fabric 2 Adjust
63. t stretch stitching turn dial to GS setting CHOOSING ACCESSORIES Best results will be obtained if you use the straight stitch foot and needle plate However the general purpose foot and needle plate may also be used starting to sew e Place needle and bobbin threads under presser foot and draw to back of machine e Position the needle in the fabric where desired for stitching start e Lower the presser foot and start the machine To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics adjust stitch length pressure and thread ten sion as instructed on the following pages For information on straight stretch stitching turn to page 40 adjusting for your fabric SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch control dial regulates the length of both straight and zig zag stitches The num bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight stitches per inch and the numbers 1 to 4 represent stitch length in millimeters Generally shorter stitches are best for light weight fabric longer ones for heavy fabric Curved seams bias cut seams and scallops require short straight stitches for elasticity and smooth contours The FINE area is used for adjustment of zig zag satin stitching page 26 The amp setting is used for straight stretch stitching and Flexi Stitch patterns only For in formation on Flexi Stitch patterns and straight stretch stitching see pages 23 and 40 e To set stitch control turn dial until setting desired is und
64. tarting a sewing upon the fabric being stitched The table be project Be sure to use the same size and type low Is a practical guide to needle and thread of thread in both needle and bobbin FABRIC THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE arenae amaren pen menawy om ker 100 polyester ntz faille a 50 0 morcorized cott oe e me 2020 e P o ings Ya a a Aa Pe ee HEAVY o overcoatings upholstery fabrics TT Sa neavy dui snu canvas S U PE sine mercerized cotton TT ae are ae makes BP pe e A 40 cotton oun wrapped L ET double knits bonded knits spandex ny o oo co ps Below A i don tricot cir gt tricot jersey panne velvet o 5 y gies Im v Band O _ stretch tery a 0 mercerized deoton oo Ye ow Ban PB E T T KODU SE SEE SON PNE WA Cotton wrapped oeo PITE Mha Wa ae oS Ka LEATHER suede kidskin calf capeskin Se 100 polyester SME su le 2032 LAP MAC buckskin cabretta patent cobra ined 3 50 mercerized cotton eae a oe FA _ leathers simulated leathers 2 O SA tyler eee oe cote EE Cotton wrapped polyester E o imitation U o i 100 polyester Open mbossed 50 mercerized so on ra WOVEN STRETCH AND ELASTIC vii KNIT B due aa reptile crinkle patent iant a and printed Vinyls me gate i a 7 44 7 menes ALL wea je D akr o u _orative Sans Stitch PPS ee Buttonhole twist S a Cotton wrapped polyester a S 100
65. that is stitching across the end and down the left side of buttonhole Stop machine when front gauge line on buttonhole foot reaches end of but tonhole guideline on garment Rotate buttonhole dial downward until sym bol for step 2 is centered under red line Start machine and let it complete step 2 of the buttonholing cycle that is stitching across the end and up the right side of but tonhole Stop machine when back gauge line on buttonhole foot is in line with the end of buttonhole guideline on garment Take one or two stitches if necessary to overlap stitching at starting point For a smooth satiny appearance and greater dur ability stitch around the buttonhole a sec ond time by repeating the two step dial se quence Remove work from machine clip thread ends and cut button opening with sharp Scissors When buttonholes are completed re set dials for regular sewing Make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position Tn Presser Foot Position Setting atEndofStept i Step2 piat presser Foot Position _ Setting atEndofStep2 Finished Stitching 31 BAR TACK BUTTONHOLES e Pattern Plain Zig Zag i Stitch Width 215 and 5 or to suit fabric Needle Position L Stitch Control FINE General Purpose Needle Plate e General Purpose Foot or Special Purpose Foot Bar Tacks and Side Stitching Length of Cutting Space III 442346 Wn mo Sam at 2V2 i E
66. tly uniform width It is especially useful for curved seams or topstitching when absolute accuracy is required Also because it allows you to guide stitches at any distance between 1 8 inch 8mm and 1 1 4 inches 3 2cm from fabric edge it is useful for very narrow or unusually wide seams Attaching the Seam Guide Place screw in hole to the right of the slide plate line up straight edge of guide with the needle plate guideline for desired seam width and tighten screw 12 LOCKING KEY Large No 171387 The larger of the two locking keys furnished with your accessories is used to unlock the face plate to gain access to the pressure regulating dial and for cleaning and oiling behind the face plate It is also used to remove the pins that lock the dial controls for straight stitching in center needle position To unlock face plate insert key into locking pin as illustrated and unscrew locking pin all the way by turning key counterclockwise Remove pin and then open face plate To lock face plate insert pin through hole in face plate and close face plate while guiding end of pin into mounting hole in machine cast ing Insert key in locking pin and turn key clockwise until pin is firmly secured To unlock dial controls insert key into lock ing pin and turn key counterclockwise to remove pin To lock the machine in straight stitch posi tion set dials at A 4 and Insert pins from top through dials and turn key
67. wer number 5 BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES buttons e Pattern Plain Zig Zag Stitch Width 4 and 4 or to suit button e Needle Position L Feed Cover Needle Plate General Purpose Foot The space between the holes in the button de termines the stitch width settings The set ting must always be used to position the needle over the left hole and fasten stitching For but tons with standard hole spacing use settings A and 4 For buttons with unusual hole spac ing use setting A and increase or decrease the width setting 4 as necessary To sew on buttons approximately one inch 2 5cm in diameter or larger I a ry oy o Winn N 1 Set stitch width dial at A Position button under foot so that the needle will enter the left hole Lower foot Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot 2 Set stitch width at 4 Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is just above the right hole Increase or decrease stitch width if required so that needle will enter the right hole of button Take six or more zig zag stitches at this setting ending on left side 3 To fasten stitching return to stitch width A and take about three stitches For best results with buttons smaller than one inch 2 5cm in diameter it is recommended that the Button Sewing Foot be used See page 59 Oo pee S S mag n l ar NAO MAUA DA MANII so PC OR Be was a EU na E RIJEKE

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