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Singer 1200 Instruction Manual

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1. atn a You are about io sew on ihe new advanced electronic sewing machine Athens 1200 x t t 4 5 ETTE t makes sewing simpie foolproci and fun After years of Singer research the Athena 1200 sewing machine features these important technological breaxihrougns e Exclusive Soilki state Bectronic Sewin 9 System Athena 1200 is tne sewing machine with the electronic Drain A wealth of Site rns auiomatically Srocrame your machine to sew any one oi twenty on diferent sractica and decorative stitches pius the two step Duittonhoie e Exclusive Light Touch Fingertip Controls They re the buttons on ihe front of the machine You simply touch the one under the d you wan the red indicator light comes on and ihe Aihena 1200 is ready to sew Any stitch is instantly avaiiaDie at the touch of a Dutton e Exclusive individual Preference Panel Your own control panel f allows you to modify the programm ied stitch dimensions fo suit special fabrics and satisfy persone preferences And that is only the beginning There are many more new features Such as rhe EXC us ive Pate enm Repeat Butono that ieis you sew on ie unit of a pattern for origina i decorative touc ches Anc Exclusive Light Touch Fingertip Reverse Button for an insian t reverse sie gn suich The Athena 1200 aiso nas Such Singer advantages as ihe pe ive Flip amp
2. o o PON A 3 os Nov 3 8o 9 o9 AUN ROS UO Bot oh mo 8 oe ok y POR 08 NR ON S POR SOR X S ON O4 O3 oy 3 DLE ne Machine nuanean aaa rua amp 9 RON Fox 8 o oR wo vo 3 oV o4 39 9 a 3 o9 s or oy e amp s 3 Sos o 4 4 9o o 4o 4 e BON BOR ON n s n FON OR 3 4o ov h Oo 8o OR DELE Contents 4 Getting to Know Your Machine 2 0 00 000 000 000 000 Princioa l Paris ee ns Accessories 2 Getting Ready to Sew Choosing Needies E Choosin S and Changing Accessories Operatin Fabric Weig ht Table Fabric Thread and Needcie 3 Table DAMEN e Threading the Machin m ihe Bobbin e a a aasa 3 Electronic c Sewing 0 eee THOR rene eves Seiecting a Pattern Repeat Button e individual Preferences otitch Adjustment Stitch Width e Stich Lengt Twin Neecie Switch 4 Straight Stitching Preparation ooo ee Fabric Handling eee bee eee centr ape ages Pin Basting e Speed Basting Sewing a Seam 8 m RON ON O9 A 9 on
3. Fd 4 PES t reasons n a pin across the Cutting space at each e end of the button o ie iO protect bar tacks 5 C o 22 f U 2 9 aS 0 3 2 thr LK fv UX 0 o o 9 Q UA M o 22 E rok Y Hr H Mi d i 55 tte insert 16 in center oi ine Buttonhole cut ti 4 tie T ung space and cul from this point in either 2t at rection CORDED BUTTONHOLES Soft threads used for embroidery and crocheting make sullable filer cords for raised mutton ho es A fine pear cotton or Si bultonhole twist is generally used E 0 1 Lo 85455 e With foot ub pass 8 OOD ot Hier core 4 BS around the spur ai ihe cack ot H 5 POR amp ends of cord under the foo anc Sul aut io Secure in sour noicne e HoiG cord ends as shown Curing stitcning Procedure e insert cord in buttonkole foot as shown and Sew outtonhole in the usua way a Re emove work from machine when the buti nhoie is compieted e Hold end of buttonhoie where cord is icoped with one hand and pui ine icose ends of the cord rmiy io craw the surpiu d loop of cord back through the buttonhole 9 Trim away ends of cord Secure ends of auttonhoie threads 2 e Cut buttonhole opening in ine usual way 74 rs bric handing when sewing tubular and rd to reach Garment areas is simplitied wh ien you convert your Sewing machine t iree arm sewin 2 Some of the sewi
4. 59 Replacing Lingerie Elastic e Stitch muiti sttch zig zag 3 e Stitch width 2105 e Stich length 1 8 General purpose needie pate e General purpose foot f Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline ai lowing one inch 2 50m for joining Lap ends and stiich together a shown using a Dall point 6 Divi de elastic banc into four equal Seg ments and mark with pins Do ihe same to ihe garment Then pin together ai corres ponding poinis pinning elastic over right side of fabric top edges even Select muiti stiteh zig zag Plain zig zag elastic stretch stitch honeycomb or featherstiich are aiso effective for repiac ing ingerie elastic 4 Take a iew stitches jo anchor elastic to fabric Then hold elastic anc garment edge tau as you stitch so hat it will remain streichabie after stitching is compietec Caution Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may defieci ihe neecie caus ing it to break FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS n G3 e Stitch multi stitch zig zag e Stitch width 5 e Stitch iengtt 1 5 to 3 s Genera purpose needle piale e Genera purpose foot He m and facing edges in knit and stretch tics will be less apt to press through anc mar when given a tiat edge finish Edge finish ung with the muiti stiich zig zag eit tie nates the buik of fi urn in edges anc retains brig texi ibiity 3 Nake 2 tesi sample io check thread ten and stitc
5. 72 z x r Gi ies 5 vour Ser lt ah utr ne 5 iiy vi D T aN OC a 2 DS EA LR 4 5 les is compie 3 2 0 Li H 0 3 E H ii G MT e fM s Uy fx V NTF RA E QA prem meen ire tea H UO tre NI 5 3 ouitonhoi ess ine r 0 e S Pr y E 5 5 lt Stec Mt Fn i X eS 3 r r ti gi gt i 3m DO 5 2 gi Cy bee e O XO 8 GH X el E D SS Gf aa yt 3 wii LI gee on i H nei t 4 3 ies urpo IER ef WE LX is t HOW F mK H Piii de 2 CRI Di S E a wA et Wi t3 lr or i FAY t un Lg a io Cu fine Sar LIE dari 4 x eat O7 en g ath RNA P 0 X 3 i ee i i 1 Si si m 0 T i 4 om eS 0 x n 5 if ai E ub ds iii ipe afi e s ne m her E Li e S Z g ter at ei Mn ba 8 3 se e e i em pe e i4 v ku 3 E ae 5 8 QW 1 ki S ress Li S gt 3 y stitch in ure a 2 3 5 may e i Stes ecu f v RAX e jM Beat be i PES PY ir a tes
6. e Stitch featherstitch 4 e Stich width fo sui fabric and design e Stich iength to suit fabric and design General purpose needie piate o Genera purpose foot e Speed range SLOW The art of joining two pieces of fabric with an open iacy decorative stitch is called fagoting You can creaie this atiractive trimming with the jeather stitch Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire gar meni section er a Turn under and hem by sipstitching ihe raw edges of the fabric strips or seams to be ioined Press flat e Stitch guiding the two fabric edges under the center of the presser foot a scant 1 8 inch 3mm apart abut edges for suit seams Allow the needie to alternately make a siitch in each fabric strip and two stitches in the center of the opening 49 Patchwork Quilting e Stitch featherstitch 2 e Stitch width to sult fabric anc design e Stich iength to sult fabric anc design e General purpose neecie piate e Genera purpose foot e Speed range SLOW a AUAM Patchwork for quis and wearing apparel for meriy put together with hand stitching can be quickly pieced anc decorated ai ine same time by using the feather stitch Joinings are both flexible and durable when this method is used Procedure Cut a fabric underiay to Size Basie a light layer of padding to underlay F a quitec effect is desir
7. ET Fabric Thread and Needie Table 12 1 Leon ic Weight Table usus 10 11 nishes for Mems and Facines sss 98 Sewing TEN 75 Free Motion Stitehing sss esos 45 nctionai and Decorative Siiches Guidin anc Supporting Fabric ss 46 ivid TA IE i b eae t ai Pr f r 2 3 1 1 4 29 ua e et en ces do vo to o 3a Voy 4o o 2 Suis aed ae Needle La eee eee ta ee tebe ea eee nee 3 CHANGING esie aae Threading Thread Tension 2 Ne PARES eee nsiitch Plate and insert 5 7 changing gt 18588 cee cee eee 8 Feed Cover Piate eee eee 5 General Purpose eee ee 3 0 Printed in US A Enjoy Sewing ed 0 up The Singer Company o Consumer Affairs Department 321 First Sireet Elizabeth NJ 07207 I EJ 7 7 i r4 if you have any Questions pease Here there everywhere
8. e Stitch Paris Point stitch 3 e Stitch width to sui fabric and effect e Stitch length to suit fabric and effect e General purpose needie piate e Genera purpose foot or e Special purpose foot e Speed range SLOW CILLUM Paris Point hemstitching is most effective when used on firm piain weave fabrics such as iawn or organdy or fabrics from which threads can be drawn readily such as t insert a size 18 needie and thread the machine with a fine mercerized cotton SK or synthetic sewing thread 2 Turn edge of fabric over twice io make hem of desired width Folc and press on length wise or crosswise thread of fabric Basie in piace 3 Draw out 2 to 4 threads just above top edge of hem The number of threads drawn wili depend on the texture of the fabric and the depth of the open work desired 4 Place work right side up uncer presser foot with the hem toward the left 5 Lower the presser foot and stitch guiding the hem edge under the needie so that ihe straight stitches are made in the drawn thread channel or through the singie thickness of fabric and the sidewarc stitches or points in the hem Fringed Edges e Cut fabric carefully to correct size e Draw a thread for depth of fringe along each edge o Piace fabric so that the edge to be fringed iS turned to the right e Stitch with matching or contrasting thread along marked lines pivoting on the neecie ai corners e Fray fabric threads betwe
9. ON OW Placing Fabric under Foot e Sewing with a New y Wound Bobbin e Keeping Seams Straignt e Turning Square Corners e Curved Seams e Reinforcing End of Seam BON m BON PON NS OY BON OP OR ON Y ON Y 2 Y S oS OS E o9 on d I wor 4 oo 4 OX 9 NOB ON ROB 9 CN BOR S o S OR ON OS Fo omo o Y o FOR PON P OR 4 Non 9 vow B S ov A vo 9 OR o4 on 4 OR 4o BOR amp v dO 8 BON B S oy 5 or ra Fn A on 9 or o3 8 OA Ros Bot ning om BOR 9 8 OY BON ON OP A Y 9 amp ov 4 o os 5 deriacing e Two Step Sutionhaling e nhoies e Cut ting Button Opening e OY FOX Y ON r A SFO 3 o PON Y X oso 0 Non 9 NOR X SN POR ON pos 24 Oh 9 o NO ov odo 8 d A or 4 oh d h OR 4 omo p ov oS BON Fo S ov B Non n BO8 3 8 OY Fo Y A 3 o Y o vo
10. Sew pane for both Nat and in ine round sewing Soft Touch Fabric Feed that protec is even the mosi delicate fabrics A variable speed soi G siate Control System thai enaDies vou fo mai intain the same pressure on the speed controller as you sew through vary ing fabric thicknesses in addition ine Athena 1 200 has these Singer design features ma one way neece e lamp thet makes it impossio eto put the needie in backwards snap n presser feet that are quickly removed and easily replaced and easy io change needie plates secured by magnets We suggest you take a few moments io read through this operators guide as you sit at your new machine You wil quickly discover how simple it is to co any sewing operation vou desire on Athena 1200 Enjoy Sewing 19877 by THE SINGER COMPANY leserved Throughout the Wong Page 2 2 3 wee E O N OO GG N GH e S9 P 8 Y PON v 9 8 PON RN Y FOR ON OY BON oc s Bon od 4 go oV dog Vor do o ox o4 A Vo Ao d oos OA A ANO om A Yon FOR No 4 vo on Yo Sov P S on A NOS POR SOROR Sor on POS Y oro v ROS OY P S ccu 8 OP 4 Y aa SCG the Sitch Length Guidance Tabie e Reverse Stitch Balance e
11. ie 4 n e a Be pera 4 8 X 0 Bac x iii 3 x z n hr S resser OO H Pa Eri Y y 5 y PAPE OI P v 3 v ME 2 8 4 8 iu EL o S m 5 gt free over e 1 tori MES b f 4 TOS Me th P et NOUS 5621 mi eee wings Ft ut erii Faro 3 Oo qoc a 6 35 e SEE H ag eoi ri V by A w ans ii a i S sr ne iW C n E We eO A kw A Y y E H t 3 TE Z y m bd gt M V a PMP PE m vw e at Si d PEE Ri I 1r 2 e as not Deer w jer 5 1 f 4 pee te 1 552 D and 3 i NR mn u EE ec E 7 p Hi rz 8 e 3 MO te T Lid S ME L3 i f iS F88 E E x Yo 2i Gsm MEE iA XA 5 f e Ar 0 i 0 D K iS 3 thread bree Me RU JE re nine N o 7 ow 0 venue ex 8 res 8 ke ES a o n UE 4 4 M o 98 7 mw Q En 5 2 4 a x O 2 Qu Q c wl Mw Me EB GC fni OO nui o X e ER X an og ead SOC 5 2 5 5 2 D A TM ae TC M wA EP rime tet Ft 3 3 a Sol e 3 A v n v i z el i TSEC IS Uunw mr x g AKES Su ac 5 gihin rim e amp EMT Make S
12. D yee a we e x T MP ww S 8 m ee 2o Lord XR Ea ii M Lond 2 m 4 n amp iii 4 PIE ti S i EY amp B i 08 wee iA Dod TG ARP re ii s w Pn sta TE Li 1 bob e pay be ot Swot S 4 P be S amp 3 isi 7 a n y G S ER i N if S Gut e e c e y Pii H D wa cs en Dni i PRX yy t essor d f abe at f E WI e w C ie 7 e ay Soa ar Se M ta ak 0 G fiv 39 en v Fa 5 fet toe 2 o H ei P ME LE i 0 m bee i Q positi ra Ej a3 i 2 x ne ee Mi Ys A m ut ad 4 E iem mw i r idi 3 we 4 li m c es 3 im iA a e Ab X i ee 8 M 1 Se oF 3 AI A 3 3 z 3 Lo io Win z 3 4 t Wi Yo m sim E Bin o Een 28 v n o pel E e Replacing Empty Bobbin Cutting Continuous Thread Te start sewing mull threac back under presser foot and cul Place threads diagonally under foot to ief side position needie in fabric where desired iower presser foot anc start machine CHANGING THE BOBBIN Removing the Bobbin Raise needie and take up lever to its highest position by turning the
13. Needie thread breaks while winding bobbin Make sure e Presser Dar is raised e Thread is unwinding freely from spool e Thread sod noider e Machine is correctly threaded Thread does not wind onto bobbin Make sure e Bobbin latch is in winding position e Thread end is held securely by thumb screw spring ai start of wind 73 MACHINE DOES NOT Sow Meedie bar does not more iswiicnis on e Motor is connected to electrical supply Da 2 e e vx 4 Jat 1 5 or accitional informetiono p Needie bar moves but stitch is not formed 9 Make sure eof Neede is straigkianc sharp 1 3 eM e 18980619 size is correct for thread being used neis correciiy threaded a4 E mi TH urn to page 6 for additional information mo min mmmtaimeo ther 9 OOOO unread e Circuit breaker is depressed See page 833 r il x Turn io page 16 for additional information Needie breaks 4 and sharp correct class ner size for thread H I k 0 Pr 4 nio page e Y 0 Z2 8 x SS 8 a ET ion v G het E rrt RI 8 ut 5 0 Af Y 4 G fe 3 iCY LE formal cage orma nine an ee Lo 3 ud Hv Er r 83 f E xt wA Pi e ine anc Size i Pii S H 7 Cri Sr ay A uw BRA Me SAM S 9 a z E 3 l C i 3 a 5 9 e ne MM 14 t gt a t iei z e a 0 f X c
14. Trace Cesign on right i side of fabric epar the area to De embroidered using anun iay t f the fabric is soft Place ihe work n an embroidery ROOD approximateiy 7 inches veer in Giameier if the design io be mbroiderec covers a large area i will be necessary io reposition the work in the hoop as each section is 0 he Carning anc embroidery foc may be used io assist fabric control Procedure 1 Position work under needie and presser bar fo engage tension iower L adjusting stitches for stretch fabrics GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of ine stretch stitches Some fabrics nyion tricot and elasticized fabrics for exampie do require support while being stitched e For nylon tricot and similar synthetic Knits apply gent e tension by hoiding the seam in front and back of the presser foot as you Sew e For elasticized fabric stretch lace and knits with an unusual amount of elasticity appiy firm tension in front and back of the presser foot to stretch ihe seam as ihe stitches are oeing paced CAUTION Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect ihe needie caus ing it to break ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC Some knit and stretch fabrics because of their structure require either more or jess than norma NORM oresser bar pressure to
15. ane appearance ot Your 3 new garm meni H ne r abric Wei ent Ta Fabr c Thread anc Needie Tabie below are practical guices to them before starting a sewing project Se sure te use tne same size and tyne of thread in bot N needie and bobbin E 3 0 i 0 an To select ihe correct needie and thread for your fabric first refer to the Fabric W determine ine weight and type of the materia you ar A Zane pa 3 Af Um Taw Next refer to the Fabric Thread anc Needie Tape eic Then locate the Type of die choice Fabric conu mn Read reac anc e ve eit SHK rayon e 2 of tab5ie eae across fron reac and nee uU are sewing a medium weight wool f Lin Type of m t H aah i ND column and you wii see t hat 2 medii im SK or mercerizec cxammpnie across io Me ediur a size 2020 14 needle are to be used threading the machine e Place spool of thread on horizontal spoo pin A if spool being usec has a thread retain ing Sit this should be piaced against the Spoo cushion to the right o Select correct spoo holder according to type and diameter of spool being usec The diameter of ihe end of ihe spoo hoider shouid aiwavs be iarger than that of tne sooo itself e Press spoo holder firmly against spool 15 te uu e e p KE 4 se ea nes LUE eS x e 4 1 amp 5 VA A ine S oe S atts EES i
16. choosing needles The needies you use should be straight to ern Sure perfect stich formation The needie shouid aiso be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large punctures yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent or deflected Remember foo that the eye of the needie must be large enough for the thread to pass through freely too fine a needie will cause ihe thread to fray See Fabric Thread and Needle Tabie page 12 For general purpose sewing in a wide range of fabrics the Style 2020 needie in sizes 9 through 18 will give you excellent results For best results when sewing on knits woven siretch fabrics bonded vinyis and elastic use Style 2045 ball point Yellow Band needle available in sizes 11 14 and 16 For decorative stitching on light and medium weight woven fabrics use the twin needie Style 2025 ror sewing leathers real anc simulated the Style 2032 needie available for purchase at your Singer Sewing Center is recommended Changing the Needie e Raise needie to its highest point by turning the hand wheel foward you Loosen needie ciamp screw anc remove the neecie e inseri new neecie up into clamp as Tar as f will go with the flat side of the neecie ic the Back e Tighten needie ciamp screw choosing and changing accessories CHANGING PRESSER FEET Snap on Presser Feet Most of the presser feet furnished with your machine snap on and off a common
17. contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when piate is replaced i Raise neecie and take up lever to nighest position by turning the hand wheel foward you 2 Raise presser foot 3 Open slide piate Press down on froni edge of plate and Hf up and out amp Position new plate over pins and release Piate is drawn into position by magnets See special inst 08 below for attach ing chainstitcn pia 5 Ciose side plate Chainstitch Plate and insert 1 Raise neecie and take up lever to highest position and raise presser foot Open slide piate Move bobbin latch to lefi and remove bob Din anc needie piate from machine 4 Place bobbin case insert in bobbin case as shown with finger of inseri positioned under the feed S Position chainstitch piate over holding pins making certain that ai the pos of the DoDD case insert finger enters the hole in the plat 6 Close side piate ATTACHING THE SEAM GUIDE Piace screw in noe ie the righi of the S de opiate line up straight edge of guide with the needie piate avide ne for desired seam width and tighten screw Q AG et e 9 CONNECTING MACHINE 8 e eu b Tt eem rg s iri c fM fim machningo 03 usn RM machine RB woe iui Lm socket e Connect the cower line plug to your elegiri cai pujet To turn on ine machine anc set speed rance push the power and ighi switch to cesi d Speed This will also turn on the sewing ti
18. feed smoothiy anc eveniy e For thick soft or very stretchy knits decrease pressure by turning dial from NORM normal toward DARN e For nyion tricot cir and similar hard sur face synthetic knits increase pressure By turning dial from NORM normal towarc MAX maximum 46 handling special fabrics Many fabrics because of their construction or finish demand special attention in sewing Tech niques usec in stitching and handling and choice of machine accessories will vary with the fabric Let the table below guide your selection FABRIC HANDLING TABLE For best results when sewing this fabric we recommend use of the Even Feed Foot available at your Singer Sewing Center 47 e Draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper or use graph paper f avaltabie e Place paper under presser foot with crawn tine centered under black vertical guideline of special purpose foot e Lower presser fool e Lower needie by turning hand wheel toward you and position it on drawn line of paper e Carefully sew along the drawn line on the paper using black vertical guideline of foot io guide stitching Do not watch 6 0161 e After you have sewn along the drawn line carefully remove paper from uncer presser foot ff you have correctly guided the paper sewing the stitched line wil be centered Notice that the stitching Hes eveniy on the drawn iine Try a paper sampier using a variety of stitches to practice
19. hand whee toward you amp bl TL Owe the presser foot anc such inrea jock over fabric ecce ower ne presser foot and stitch ight use one oi th the plete The num from ihe needie i you want a S S inch 1 8cm seam for example iine up your fabri ith ihe number 5 guideline Note that both number 5 guidelines ihe most commoniy used are extended on the slide slate for your conveni lence the crossiines serve as guides sen Stick i23 Square corner For extra heip in keeping the seam straight ou may wish to use the seam guide Because t allows you to guide stiches evenly oetween 1 8 inch f mm and 1 1 4 inches Som from he fabric edge it is particularly useful for very narrow Or very wice seams To insert seam guide on machine see page TURNING SQUARE CORNERS 8 Me Yo turn a square corner S 8 inch 1 8c from the fabric edge vou nsed mol measure o mark the seam Simpiy use the crossiines on ine side plat e Siop stulching wih ine neecie co 8 we en the bottom ecc e of the fab cornering crossiines on ine m Lok E 0 dm 4 H e Raise presser foot and turn fabric on T el E 6 ferr z neecie oringing 201 iom edge of fabric in 3 Mi Une WIS TEE ideines e e Lower th direct HM fe b I oresser fool and sich in new 3 Stitching a Curved Seam CURVED SEAMS Sor example if the stich iengin contro on your machine is set on 2 the machine wil sew approxim
20. hand wheel toward you 1 Open siide plate move Dobbin latch to lef 2 Remove bobbin by inserting finger under rim of bobbin Replacing an Empty Bobbin 1 Sip bobbin ihread siot on top into bobbin case 2 Move bobbin iaich to extreme right wind position e Leave side slate open unt you have finished winding the bobbin Removing Thread from Bobbin You can ieave the bobbin in piace while removing thread With slide piate closed pull thread end through the plate with a steady motion Do not pull the thread across the feed as this may damage it Pull thread into bobbin case siot 1j craw it under fiat spring and around to and past point 2 leaving three inches 7cm of free thread Close slide plate Closing slide plate makes raising bobbin thread easier because this step prevents the thread from coming out of the threading points C Replacing a Wound Bobbin Raise needie and take up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you A Open slide plate move bobbin latch to jeft B Draw about an inch 2 5cm of thread from bobbin and insert bobbin in case Move bobbin latch siightly to the right sewing position Sitch width and length are automatically p ro grammed but can be changed for individu preferences or fabric reguiremenis as de scribed on page 22 Follow same procedure for sti automatical dy switch to an h selection to ther pattern Note We reco
21. orefer ence pan i and then 5 manu ually p si the controls iocated on ihe panei as described on page 22 Stitch Width Light individual Preference Controls stitch 0 STITCH WIDTH e Select desired pattern e Open cover of individual preference panel Lightly touch stich widih pointer to activate sileh width control indicated by a red Hight on stitch panel e Turn pointer siowiy and sew unii desired width is obtained Machine will now stitch at preferred width STITCH LENGTH e Select desired pattern e Lightiv touch the stich iength pointer with your finger to activate the stitch length con troi indicated by a red light on stitch panel e Turn pointer siowiy and sew until desired iength is obtained Machine will now stitch at the preferred iength Note Both stich width and stitch lengin con trols may De used simuitaneousiy e ilocancel press any button excepti those for reverse or pattern repeat sewing 22 Choosing the correct stitch length is of utmost importance The correct choice will make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment The table below is a practical guide to stitch length selection Refer to it before starting a sewing project Remember to make a test sampie on a scrap piece of the fabric you will be using STITCH LENGTH GUIDANCE TABLE Slow to moderate speed Strass Areas in Knit or Stretch Fabrics Contrary fo common belief it is not always necess
22. perma nenily lubricated paris whenever your sewing machine requires servicing Note There are no user serviceabie paris in side the Athena 1200 electronic sewing machine Therefore any unauthorized tamper ing inside the machine will void the warranty CLEANING THE MACHINE Caution Before cleaning your machine dis connect power line plug from electrical supply With a soft cloth or lint brush clean al points indicated Dy arrows Your machine requires no oiling under normai conditions Your SINGER representative or 82 tion shown to unlock ine bulb pin Caution Be sure to use a 15 watt bulb only Meplacing Bulb Press new bulb into socket with duib pin entering siol of socket and turn it over in direction shown io lock Bulb in posi tion Push entire assembly up until it snaps in m bir CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB Caution Before changing light bulb make sure you have disconnected power line plug from electrical outiet Removing Bulb With thumb of right hand push in anc Gown on tab of ighi fens anc mower the Hight bracket Do not attempt unscrew the bulb Press it up into the socket and at ine same time turn bulb over in direc Circuit Breaker en o circuit breaker The eiectronic system of your machine is gro tected by a Circuli breaker if the sewing light goes on and ihe needie bar moves up and Gown but you cannot select a pattern you must push the rec Circuit breaker Du ton A to r
23. r bos Qr me 5 y fasi n i at a to sew Vx E zi on is Sein ge dH 2 AY c IC Ui Lun S v e A iS TEE OF amp 3 cari T Pol 2 2 ia 5 S e eB mt ws 22 T OH y i rea Meu Cs Ang 55 E eci es e 2 3 vy 3 3 at x 5 z H 0 2 5 See page 12 0 PE t5 tches 3 a at Am tens INFRA F 5 f t M ii Yon m Po if fis e a A Dod N amp ex eae 7 amp x P case 21 I wee o 2 OU a o 2 tz o SOR doc Go 5 rea nen ES x 5 2 M RRS r gt Pant i 1 x Ai 0 fA pnl EN Gi 0 n M xii SA T 5 A E Yer OE GO Omm oF 4 E bar See pace 7 2 v c ipped sti oo Z 25 8 Ke PR ww Feet e N to Toa e Presser e e e x oM o Suffice TM EET Ti z 0 amp Rint MaKe 5 c z 2 5 5 e e See os e 1 OD H ide G v fo 4 vA NP H X 1 are un 2 ex oe XT P ifi amp x EGE t Nef 67 0 4 paths fo 5tk SLOW speed c S200 zi COFFE i eA i amp f d c amp iS 3 Dig m tx Uma
24. seiected MONOGRAMS Many decorative stitch patterns can be used for monograms and motifs to add a per sonai touch to jacket yokes for example or for initiaing househoid linens You can buy designs or create them yourself to suit the stitch pattern you wish fo use Very simple straight line monograms can be mace with the plain zig zag stitch or you can 85 TOPSTITCHING A practical simple way to accent the ines of a dress or coat is to piace one or more rows of stitching along collars lapels facing edges hems pockets seams eic For a tailored ook use lines of reguiar straignt sitering sew them with buttonhole twist or double Strands of regular thread for added emphasis For decorative interest use a zig zag stich The even feed foot available for sen arate purenase ai your local SINGER store WH 2 you piace stitching eveniy and accuratei v 9 Keep stitching at an even dis tance from the fabric edge use the seam guide Two thread Topstitching Bold weli Getined topstitening is produced by sing two strands of reguiar thread in ihe nee die instead of a single strand ideal for Sum mer knits linens cotions denims anc vinyis two thread toostliching is economical and particuiariy appropri te for use when a non lustrous washable finish is required e Select a size 16 Style 2020 needle for woven fabric and use a size 14 Styie 2045 Yellow Band needie for knits Refer to Fabric Thread and Need
25. to three quarters th diameter of the button With this spac ing the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned e Make Sure that the center line marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread 2 Mark a position guideline for each Dit iomnoie e Horizontal buttonholes are placed to ex teng 1 8 inch 3mm beyond the center ine of the garment as shown so that the butions will be in ihe center of the figure when the garment is fastened 4 e Horizontai outionhoie guidelines shouid follow a crosswise fabric thread and be ionger than the finished length of the but tonhole e Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically e Vertical buttonholes are placed so that ihe center line of the garment is in the center of the buttonhoie as shown e Mark the ends of each buttonhole horizontally across t ihe center line bast 4 and use ine center line marking as ne buttonhole guide when stitching 70 BUTTONHOLE LENGTH A butionhole length be just jong enough te alow ihe Duten to sis inrougn ine opening without stretching e zZstmaie ihe proper 5 Duttonhole iengin oy measuring the width pius the thickness oi the huton e To make sure the measurement is correct cut a sit ma scrap of fabric equa to the diameter of the button you intend to use increase length of opening unti button sios through easily This test is particularly advisable for buttons of unusual shape or thickness BU
26. which of the folowing methods is the most appropriate for your fabric and design Mark design on piece c fabric to be appliqued Cut out e ign eav g about 3 4 inch 2cm margin all around Posi tion ine design Baste it to the fabric Method 1 e Set pattern seiector and stiteh width cial for desired applique stitch Adiust stitch length to a ine setting between 1 and e Foliow the outer edge of ihe design with decorative stitch e Trim away the excess fabric on the outer edges of the stitching Method 2 Select straight stitching e Outline the entire design with a short stitc e Trim raw edges to ine stitching and remove basting e Select stitch pattern and stitch width desired anc sei siiicn iength on a satin Stitch seling for a ciosely spaced stich between 1 and e Sieh foii iowing the straight stitch outiine is method will produce a smooth over edged nish with no raw edges to be trim mec afer stitching Method 3 e Purchased motifs can be appliqued cuickly and easily Dy using either a staigh or decorative stitch 44 2 Hold needie thread loosely and turn hand whee toward you to bring bobbin thread up through fabric Hold both thread ends and iower needie into fabric e Stich outlining or filling in design with zig zag stitches For a smooth satiny surface piace parailei stitches close together mav ing noop Slowly and steadily For an irregu iar texiure move the
27. 2 e 2 S ii ac Oot z ad Es Ne h can Fal 3 1 at erate V ne o yO H 0 e i M8 r ii re m s ife i ey Sic M T sees e re G r w resse tem Qi 0 0 Le Lo A vex a vh te FM X w ag 50 y e m DLL L3 Ded yn x3 ww 4 i i TED eA 4 4 P V H Tet s 4 amp ves mo 2 E s lam 3 E n 3x 2 3 a p EVI HI SO w i PC i TI amp x D VE ex 3 P bi 2 v PRA 3 4 ies GO ig z ng 0 5 2 a 5 m s time Y EN on in ERE ei z MA iii 3 3 in Qi i kak i a ii EE MESE win 0 3 3 es an 9 E m yA 2 wit Ad RTE e en 4 amp i e 2 e amp 5 S Y 2 AM oo eme Detween 3 d amp nes 8 Bonet 5 5 DT Pj a fc 4 n 0 o Ew cx amp Lad 1 h ei n RC x d amp e se etn E S 2 r ws um f e e 5 rs Bu r i tie S v Rar rm Laud Te 2 is Ey ie or a n 4 iA t e e amp as jT EN S Ni ti nm Fed 2 x o p Ce oy ite amp oO eio Sx i CK S me fe aS PD i 2 wh fase gar i a Y i
28. G Knees eibows and othe r areas of wear in children s clothes Sweaters jackeis and shorts become readily accessible for darning mending or patching when the free arm surface is used The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sieeve and leg areas making it unnecessary to open seams or roii ine garment For darning follow the instructions on page 32 and refer to page 58 for mending informa BARTACKS Sar tacks reinforce areas of Strain and can be applied io ready made garmenis as well as io inose sewn at home Use the f ree arm surface to avoid fabric bulk around the needie when you apply this detail to pockets piackets and waistiines 78 to make sure you are using ine machine COf rectly if the HH exists the fon iowing check isi may helo you 0 correct i Whenever sewing difficulty is encouniereg review ine sections of the instruction 300k 3 H I H t inaiexpiain ine operation you are performing Fr P c f TR 4 Turn to page 8 for additional information o Presser oot fastened t G Fabri ic iS noi Sein 3 08 Work iS removed o om machin e Fabric pei ng guided needie ast OrSupooried behind the Dod ss 0 b oi i 1 noi being pulied ioo hard or too Turn ic page 48 jor additional information BOBBIN WINDING DIFFICULTIES be 7 4 gri iren mem Tiawm 416 ar iT iO page i fOr OOOO winding iniorma aon
29. Overedged Seam Finish bod e Stitch zig zag E or multi stitch zig zag 5 e Sitch width to suit fabric e Stitch length to sult fabric e General purpose needie plate e General purpose foot CILLUM E E AT A y 1 Adjust stitch length and width if necessary 2 Trim seam edges evenly e Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam allowance as illustrated LINGERIE SEAMS e Stitch zig zag E e Stitch width narrow or to suit fabric e Stich length to sur fabric e Genera purpose needie piate Genera purpose foot To make a lingerie seam curable and flexibie use ine plain zig zag stitch at a narrow width setting This seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams When seaming nylon tricot insert a Yellow Band needie in the machine before you begin to sew e Straight stitch the seam on wrong side of fabric Press both seam allowances in the same direction e From the right side topstitch with narrow zig zag stitching ietting ihe needie aler nately enter ihe seam iine and the seam thickness 42 SATIN STITCHING x e Stitch zig zag e Stich width to suit fabric e Stitch iength Otoi e Genera purpose needie plate e Special purpose foot Note Other decorative stitch patterns ex cepi stretch stitch patterns may be sewn at satin siich Satin stitching a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth sSatin like surface is useful
30. TTONHOLE INTERFACING iS aimosi always acvisabie to use an nter acing in the buttonhole area An interfacin holds the fabric Firmly so hat a neat Dut tonh oie may oe Si tehed and keeps ih finished buttonhnoie in shape inter acing iS essentia when the fabric is loosely woven or iS crepe or nii inal stretches When panning your garment remember that Dar tack buttonholes are siiched through three thicknesses of fabric gar ment inter facing and facing after the facing has been attached TWO STEP BUTTONHOLING Make a test buttonhole on a sampie of your fabric with interfacing if being used before working on your garment o Determine length of button and mark start and end line of buttonhole on fabric e Attach general purpose needie piate and two step buttonhole foot e Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot towards back of machine e Place fabric under foot so that buttonhole start Hine is aligned with red guideline on foot Lower foot e Select iet side of buttonhole by pushing button on pattern selection panel e Select siow speed start machine and Jet it complete left side of buttonhole e Stop machine iust before guideline on but tonhoie fooi reaches the buttonhole end line of the fabric e Select right side of buttonhole by pushing button on pattern selection panel e Start machine and iet it complete right side of buttonhole Stop sewing when stitching reaches starting bar tack
31. abric to the edges Guide the fabric with both hands if the fabric has a floral or scroll desi at ine pattern in the fabric can be your quilting design Stitch it from the top side 34 Adjusting Tension ro find the correct tension setting for chainstiching set the tension cal on 3 and make a test sampie in your fabric if the Cope in the chain on the underside of che fabri loose and irreguiar in size increase tens sion When the tension is correctly adiustec ine chain will be flat and smooth and the fabric unpuckerec e To increase tension number turn dial to a nigher o To decrease tension turn dia number ai tO a Owar Correct Tension Too Little Tension CHAINS TITCHING Single thread chains tching looks ike regu lar Straight si tenis inc on top but is a series of interlocking loops on the underside of the fabric The stiches are produced by ihe nee die thread alone so you do not need a bobbin thread or a bobbin Because the stitches are formed by a singie thread the interlocked loops rave easily aiiowi ing the entire ine of stitching to be removed with iust a pull on the thread end Here are 2 n of he many sewing jobs for which you will find chainstitching useful Sew ing temporary hems and tucks to exienc the life of children s clothes and curtains and Unings th iat might shrink e Hemming curtains and Graperies thai may need io be aiterec e Attaching wove
32. and thread combination for the fabric being used i be necessary i to adjust the tension of the sewing machine to ensure a well balanced stitch A well balanced sifich is when the too anc under thread appear the same on the fabric w machine has an aciusiabie tensic troi system This contro exert gt censi onon top and under thread as they pass through ac 0 m ii d nine io form HE a stich rY e ve 5 ye c Oo 4 3 Q o a x n Y e e Too much tension will produce a tight stitch which will cause puckered M ams e Too Httle tension will produce a loose stit When an even amount of tension is exerted on Ssoth threads 3 smooth even stitch KNOWN asa balanced stitch is produced Tension Test c helo understand the effect of ten sion on ric and thread try tnis simpie test t rake two pieces of a medium weighi woven fabric in a solic ligni color about six inches iong T ve b 8 H ry M 1 e Place a 2020 size 14 needie in ine machine brat 3 1 8 x PET e Thread the fop of your machine wilh a E 4 ei t polyester or mercerized dark color thread i ti anc use 2 lighter color thread of the same i be i fiber and size in the bobo H il Ar hant S a4 o Select a medium stitch length e Seam the two pieces of fabric together siari ing with the top tension control at o Then 25 you Sew siowiy i turn the tension cont from G through to it
33. ary to use a S t r e i c h stitch on aii seams in garments made from these fabrics Always consider the Stress areas for exampie armholes crotch seams also how much the garment will be required to give anc where Use a stretch stitch where needed Moreover always ascertain that the fit of the garment is correct before sewing any seam with a S t r e t c h stitch Ripping out a S t r e t c h stitch is difficult and may damace fabric See page 46 for sewing on stretch fabrics 23 REVERSE STITCE BALANCE To change the appearance of a Fiexi Stitch pattern or outtonholes adiusi the reverse stitch balance control Before moving the pointer from iis neutral position make a test sampie if adiustment is required stitch siowly and move ine reverse silich balance pointer in either direction as you sew until desired pat tern appearance is obtained For information on balancing a buttonhole see page 73 Return pointer to neutral position A afier sewing Fiexi Stitch patterns and buttonholes Flexi Stitches illustrated on page TWIN NEEDLE SWITCH Always move twin neecie switch located on individual preference panel to the right f symboi before doing twin needie sewing Caution Uniess switch has been activated needie breakage can result When you have compieted twin needie sew ing De sure to return switch to the left f position See page 58 for twin neecie sewing Remember if when adjusting a control y
34. ately 12 siiches to the inch for straight seams Adiust ihe CORIO ween 45 to 2 15 to 20 stitches Der to stitch curved seams in ine same ark c you use the seam guide attach tata 1 angie so that the edge that is closer to th neecie acts as a guide INFORCING END OF SEAM ich to the edge of the fabric Do not sew beyond edce of fabric Press reverse stiich bution and hola in place Backstlich approximately 1 2 inch 1 Som to reinforce enc of seam 8 reverse stitch bution Raise neecie to it ign est posit ion by turning hand wheel toward you an presser foot Remove the fabric by drawing t to the back and left Cut threads on thread cutter ai rear of presser Dar RE by 4 i 3 Select straight stitch Position work in hoop and piace noop uncer foot then iower ihe presser bar to engage tension Hold neec ie thread iooseiy ME eh hand ema nanc c whee toward you and draw bo5 roug faerie Ho id Doth d iower needie into fabric i after a a few stitches OCuline area io be darned with stiches for reinforcement as s ilustr iich across i and forth under ot Kee closely spaced a nd even in lengin runni EREET ng ied 2 3 M D applications DARNING Worn or torn spots on nits and household efforiessiy and qu kiy with ie oraci You may choose to darn either with or without accessories When greater contro is needed use the accessories 1
35. e eee i E in pum Y 7 TE iia Fipime Entire 7 1370m from waistine Lee ee chee ne ae iib Hipine Entire 9 22em from waistline MICI 86 index Siraight Stiteh sos 3 Operating the Machine eae 9 Overedged Seam 3 Pattern Repeat Button 3 Performance Checklist sess 79 Personal Measurements l 88 Power and Light Switch 2 9 Presser Feel el Sutton Foot eaa 4 7 Buttonhole FOO aoaaa arrera araa 4 Cha ngi ng Presser F 7 Darning and Embroidery FOOL oo eee eee 8 General PUPDOSE oo ee eee 3 Overedge Foot eee 4 Special Purpose Foot o oo eee 8 3 7 5 2 4 5 PB Straighi Stitch Foot ee Zipper FOO ssn Pressure A USIDEN S errs 4 Principal Parts cc eee ee Quiting MEME 34 Reverse Stitehing cece en 2 Reverse Stitch Balance cee eee 24 Satin SHHCHING ooo eee 43 Seam Guide eee eee 3 8 SEAMS oo eee G 29 31 36 42 46 Chainstitch eer s 36 Straight eee ee 29 Stretch sss 46 Seam Finishes en 41 Selecting 2 Stich sees 20 Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabri Speed Controller sss EE 0 2 9 Spool Holders sess Sitch Centering ss 3 Stich Length ooo 22 28 Stitch Length Guidance Table sus 28 Stitch Width oo ccc cece eee eee ees 22 Straight Stitching u MM 25 Cur
36. e Table on page 12 Adjusting Stitch Length 3 i i 1 fii iy 0 Maxi sirete ch sitch iengin is adlusted in the be 5 Same way aS regular gagni Sith iengin amp 1 a Longer siiiches arg mosi aR r 3 ERE 3 H Smh E 3 fl Woven and bonded fabrics heavy double E is i 4 3 ieee P gt 3 AMES ane sweaier niis shorter Si ches are Y 0 ES i 3 pest for medium we ghi Knits and woven A 3 a4 2S siretch fabric For maximum strength use the amp iA LM 4i 1 shoriesi suich compatibie with fabric weight 3 Lower presser foot and start machi ne noiding thread ends ai back of foot as f irs few stitches are mace 4 Guide fabric lightly letting the machine make the back and forth stitches that give Stretch to ine seam CAUTION Do not pull fabric while you apply gente or firm tension as this may deflect nee die causing it to break When stitching across icids and seam joir ings apply tension by holding seam in front ang back of ihe 1 presser foot as shown to assist feeding This type of Support is essen tiai for thick soft fabrics Maxi Streten Stitch Continued Adjusting Reverse Stitches For maximum strength and good appearance forward and reverse stitches that make up the maxi stretch stitch should be balanced and of equal iencth See page 24 on how to adjust reverse stitch balance control Procedure 1 Pin or baste seam 2 Draw needie and bobbin thread
37. eactivate the machine if your machine isa oortaDie model carefully UR or iiit it to gain access io ine Dutton Push button in lf your machine is secured to a cabinet reach under front of cabinet and locate the speciai hoie which gives you access to the button Push Dutton Certain cabinet models may not have an access hole in such instances release ine machine from the cabinet ili machine anc push bution Re secure machine to cabinet Re select desired pattern Note if Dutton continues to disengage con taci your Singer representative or Approved Dealer special accessories for special jobs Sewing Aids have been designed to increase ihe versa lity of your sewing machine and enabie you to give your sewing that extra Dro fessionai touch The ones described below are iust a few of the complete selection avaiabie at your ioca Singer store Professional Suttonhoier No 381118 ine Professiona Buttonholer sews six kinds of buttonhoies pius eyelets in a wide variety of fabrics You choose ihe style and length and make perfect buttonholes every time Rutter No 161561 This accessory offers a simple effective way io make gathered and pleated ruffles The ruffier is used for straight stitching only 84 Quilting Foot No 160891 The culling foot is especially well adapted to stitching jightly padded fabrics it is excellent for the placement of straight stitching in block oral or scroll designs This sh
38. ed 2 Prepare patches turning under i 4 incn 6mm seam allowance 3 Baste patches to underlay in arrangement desired butting aii edges 4 Stitch in lengthwise anc crosswise rows allowing stitches to siraddie patches Picot Edges e Stitch Paris Point stitch S e Stitch width to sui fabric and effect e Stich length to suit fabric and effect e General purpose needie plate e Genera purpose foot e Speed range SLOW A dainty and decorative picol like edge can be very simply made in fine sheer fabrics when you use the Paris Point stitch The fine hemstitched finish produced by this stitch is particularly appropriate for edging ruffles because if eliminates Bulk Use it too as a foundation stitch for hand rolled hems f wii make bias cut edges firm and easy to hancie Soft fabrics such as chiffon and volle can be given a picot edge if they are supported by 2 crisp fabric underlay while being stitched Ai ways make a test sample to determine the need for an underiay and the correciness of stitch width stitch length and thread tension o Use a iarge needie size 18 is recom mended and a fine mercerized cotion thread e Mark stitching iine approximately 12 inch 1 20m in from raw edge of fabric Stich along marked line placing fabric so that the edge to be finished is turned to the right 9 e Trim fabric close to the right side of line of stitching as shown Paris Point Hemstitching
39. ed detali finishes can now oe Guickiy made by machine To produce a chain piace the first stitch in the fabric Stitcn off fabric and continue stitching unti a suffi cient length of chain is produced Thread chain through embroidery or darning needie and tack to garment or lining A stitch length setting of 12 is recommended Growth and Shrinkage Tucks Tucks are frequentiy put into curtains linings and children s clothes to allow for fabric shrinkage and child s growth Letting down is no ionger a chore when tucks are chainstitched Simply uniock the last ioop of the chain formed on the underside of ihe tuck and puli out the stitching PROCEDURE e Rotate the group selector dia A to the right as far as tt will go The zig zag symbol will now appear in the yellow field above pattern selector button S e Press pattern selector button B A red light wii appear above the zig zag symboi to ing cate that machine is ready to produce a basic zig zag stitch at maximum stitch width and medium stitch ienath CHANGING STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH e io change stitch length or width see page 22 in Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing ADJUSTING NEEOLE THREAD TENSION Zig Zag siiching usually requires less nee die ihread tension than straight stitching Be Sure your machine is threaded correctly and make a tes sampie with the fabric and thread you pian to use so that you can adjust tension to suit ine stich pattern vou ha
40. ed foot cannot be used for speed basing Select needie and thread according io your fabric A fine needie and a sofi pliable thread are recommenced when basting stitch ies are i to be removed before pressing as in the ase of peats or hems Choose eee color to contrast with your fabric so that i can be seen easily Thread ine machine in the usual way i Sei machine for basting af a short stich enoth and take a few stiches fo position and secure basting siari 2 Adjust to the length of basting sich desired siiiches approximately 1 inch ng are recomm ndeg for seam ing m and proceed Su itch lowly SUD ihe im je fine no x S ERA RA iil PO i an 3 oresser oot if stiches are more Shan 1 2 Y d fi 4 3 1 ME Caution Do not puii ihe fabric wh e you are La F 9 stitching as iis may deflect the needle Caus T E eibi PE 3 3 Take a few short stiches to secure end of P ay casting Alenia 3 PE t pliant gt none engi COn iroi Giai On ine person a mane see page 22 regulates in length ors basting stitches Secause the inter E gt Es i 0M ett e emm fue wh wii ike ie eniers ie POI is hanged when you machine basis the engin p of ine stich is no ne same as for regu i fae ni v Am Mar SULTON tf 4 ti 1 i b Very snort stiches are recommen ced 6 fasten stitching star
41. en stitching and fabric edges to form fringe 52 Overedged Searns e Stitch overedge stretch stitch e Stitch width 5t e Stitch length tosuit fabric and effect e Genera purpose needie plate e Overedge foot e Speedrange SLOW Method 1 Make a test sampie to determine the suitability of an overedge seam finish for your garment Ouplicate the grain of your garment seam Adiust thread tension to suit fabric Use an appropriate Yellow Band needie in the machine for a synthetic knit See Fabric Thread and Needie table on page 12 Baste the garment together on ihe seam allowing for 5 8 inch 1 Sem seam allowance and fit in ine usuai way After making any necessary adiustments trim Seam edge evenly to a scant 1 4 inch Smm from seam line basting Place trimmed seam under the foot so that the straight stiches fall on ihe basted seam iine and zig zag stitches fall over the seam edge tif a narrower stitch wicth is desired as for seam finishing of fine fabrics use the general purpose foot in piace of the overedge foot 53 Mock Overedce This finish is appropriate for bulky Knits fine 8 cots and fabrics thal curl or fray Method 2 Make a test sample Baste the garment together on the seam line and fit in the usual way After maxing any necessary adiustments suggested in Method 1 piace seam under foot Stitch so that the st ches on the left side of the pattern penetrate ihe basted seam l
42. for both utility and decora tive work it is accomplished by sewing a zig zag stitch with stitch length pointer in the area between O and 1 For best resulls the specia purpose foot must De used When vou wish to procuce a satin stitch make a test sample first so that you can adiust the stitch length anc thread tension properiy Soft fabrics may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching Crisp organdy or iawn uitabie for this purpose Adiusting Stitch Length for Satin Stitching 1 Op en the persona preference panei Aj Set the stitch length pointer on 1 2 Run the machine at a siow speed 3 Gradually move pointer from 1 toward by rotating the pointer downward unti stitches are closely spaced anc form 2 smooth surface Stitch width may be varied in a similar man ner Move stitch width pointer to any desired setting the higher the number the wicer the Stich Adiusting Tension for Satin Stitching Satin stitching generally recuires even iess tension than open zig zag stitching Further more the wider the satin stitch the lighter the mension on the thread must De Thus a stitch dth setting of 5 requires the ieast tension narrower stitching requires somewhat more Notice the stitching on your sampie if ihe stitching looks too taut or if the fabric puckering lower ine needie thread tension by urning the tension dial to a lower number Z APPLIQUE Preparation Make a tes sampie to decide
43. g and Embroidery Foot is recom mended for aii types of free motion work it is ideal for embroidery monogramming and decorative designs because tne transparent toe fully reveals the iine of the design to be followed Two step Buttonhole Foot iets you stich Suttonholes of any length in two easy steps Buttonhole Gauge has slots for marking Buttonhole guidelines Overedge Foot used with overedge stretch stitch for seams in stretch fabrics Sutton Foot noids most butions securely 4 ME tor stiicning Zipper Foot for inserting zippers anc stitching corded seams SB ndstitch Kem Guide Use this with the generai purpose foot to position the nem for Diinastitch hemming 19 11 12 13 INCHES scm MM wem UR emm 1 a erg i9 4 E e 5 NE eiat eme mp 14 Feed Cover Plate for bution sewing and free motion work 15 Chainst tch Fittings a Bobbin case insert b Chainstitch Platet 18 Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twin needie stitching and two thread togstitcning 17 Seam Ripper io pick and cuti threads quickly and neatiy without damage to the fabric 18 Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing machine 19 Small Spool Holder For use with small diameter tubes of thread a 20 Large Spool Holder on your machine when delivered For use with medium and large spools of thread Numbers on plate indicate distance from needie in eightns of an inch
44. g machine are designed to heip you do many Kinds of sewing easily and per fectiv To increase the versatility of your machine additional accessories can be purchased ai your Singer store 1 Transparent Bobbins NO 18155 1j 2 Needies e Style 2020 for all purpose sewing Style 2045 ior sewing knits streich fabrics and elastic e Style 2025 for twin needie decorative stitching IMPORTANT Your SINGER sewing machine nas been designed to obiain best results with SINGER needies You shouid follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needie package for correct styie and size o nee cle for different types and weighis of fabric 3 General Purpose Foot and Genera Pur pose Needie Platet are on your machine when delivered Use them for alternating between straight anc zig zag stitching as well as ulility zig zag sewing They can aiso be used for siraignt stitching firm fabrics 4 Straight sttch Foot and Straicht stitch Needie Piatet Use these when your fabric or sewing procedure requires ciose control These accessories recommenced for ai siraighi siitoh sewing are especially helpful for edge sifiching and collar pointing or for siiching celicate or spongy fabrics 5 Seam Guide helps you keep seam allowances perfectly even 6 Speciai purpose Foot Use this for ali kinds of decorative zig zag stitching tNumbers on slate indicate distance from needie in eighths of an inch 7 Darin
45. ght The SLOW setting A switch oressed in alway aiows for maximum conirci Use ris seing for specia iobs such as Dutton sewing anc buttonhole maki ing decorative patterns Dobbin winding and where iniri A im tet oh axe amp cate details require close contro iml i i The FAST Setting switch pressed in ai weree 0 ine wav allows for full speec capacity of the machine itis best for iong straight seam easy to handie fabrics anc genera sewing where a variety of speeds are needed CAUTION We recommend thai ihe power and Hght switch 5 neegies presser fee or rpi ates ing ihe mac d 73 2 ta e E lt 8 o T fo T LT X3 4 J o e 2 3 wm ib co Nee fh e M o 2 Te run th machine p press ihe foot or knee speed controler The harder you press the ES At i AX NES ASF no macnine T Sew wiihin ihe range The lighter vou press Sew within th FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE There are thousands of fabrics around the worid each manufactured with a specific fiber anc weight The fabrics below have been classified according io weight to give a smali sampie ci what is available for purchase FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE cont FABRIC THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE Choosing the correct neecie anc wili maket he difference in ine wea tie on ihe previous page uero in s neecie and thread selec 5 Ref 7 thread for your fabric is of utmo osi importan ice Correct choic 28
46. guide as you stitch 3 With the wrong side of ihe work uppermost turn the hem under creating a soft fold from the top edge of the hem 4 Position ihe hem under ihe foot with the soft fold resting against the wall of the guide Make sure the fange of the guide is between the sott fold and top of hem as shown 5 Lower the foot stitch so that the straight stitches fall on ihe nem allowance and the zig zag stitches pierce the soft foid of the work Adjust stitch widih if necessary While stitching guide the hem edge in a siraight line and feed the soft fold evenly against the wall of the guice Ladder Seam The blindstitch ladder seam is particuiariy ap ropriate for knit and stretch fabrics it s idea for stretchable construction seams and edge finishes for neckiines pockets and collars in sporiswear and swimsuits e Stitch D indstiteh e Stitch width to sui fabric a Stitch length to suit fabric e General purpose needie piate e General purpose foot me Make a test samale to adjust stitch width and length and needie ihread tension to Suit the fabric Needie ihread tension should be iighter than normal Cut and fit garment allowing jor 5 8 inch 1 50m seam allowance Baste seam iine QI Place fabric under presser foof so ihat the straight stitches fall on the seam iine bast ing and the points toward the center of ine garment Her stitching open seam by pulling fabric back
47. h length i you are using ine mustt etitch zig zag Piace stitching about t 2 inch t 3em from hem or f acing ecce Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line M eet o e Blanket Binding e Stich honeycomb amp e Stitch width to suit fal a Stitch length io suit fabri 2 General purpose needie piate e Genera purpose foot e Speec range SLOW tr i cand elect tl Often you can make a biarket look aimosi new bY ren acing in ree enindin Th mon evcomo toh is partici ry y Suited because it com E M OMM Lad t HE Sines utiy with beauty 1 Make a sample first to determine the cor reci Stich wicth anc length setting Reduce pressure on pressure dia and in crease stitch En nin 2 banke feeds Es i Mi 3 2 tructions on adju ting stitch length j 1 H 2 Remove worn binding anc baste new bind ing securely in place 5 P i ie Durchased at Gen i mosi Suilabie ures smooth feeding 6 f et 0 D D a p amp e Stitch maxi streteh stitch x e Siiich engin lo suit fabric e General purpose needie piate e Genera purpose foot Speed range SLOW Make a test sampie first to determine the best stitch engin p ressure anc tension seiings for your fa ric To be sure tha i YOu are using he correct neecie and thread combination for your fabric see the Fabric Thread and Nee at 1 di
48. hanc for replacement e Unthread and remove e Attach detachable spoo pin io thread cuidepost and inseri ihe twin e Pass first thread through righi eye of 562016 e Piace second spoo of thread on 004 nin and thread as before except bypass snap in thread guidepost anc pass threac between tension separator anc ieft hand tension disc and through leh eye of neecie 68 taking two or three s Remove work from machine leaving 4 in ches 10cm of thread pull thread eres through i to inside of garment and not the ciose to fabric to form a secure finish FORMING A THREAD SHANK Buttons sewn on coats and jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric A thread shank is formed by sew ing over the blade of a reguiar machine 9 o Position needie garment and button as de scribed above e Place neecie in groove of foot so that point enters hole in foot first as shown The further in you push needie ine longer the shank WH De e After stitching remove neecie from groove of button foot remove work from machine and cut threads about 6 inches 15cm from fabric e Pull neecie thread ends to back of button form a firm shank between bution and fabric oy winding threads tightiy around attaching stitches and tle thread ends securely 59 cy uttons e Stitch overe cge stretch stitch o e Stich wicta sui puton e Stitch length o e Button foo
49. hering wiih decorative stitching Create your own cesigh or adani ihe on es inustraied Use read ihat contrasis with or matches your fabric depending on the eiteci desired A tesi sample is always advisable to check stitch settin ngs Se sure to use the same fabric anc degree of fullness you pian for your gar ment o Smocked Sand Accented with Cording TWIN NEEDLE STITCHING The iwin needie simultan ecusi y produces two oar a iei Closely spaced ines of decora tive stitching You can stitch with either one or two colors of thread Sic engen 5 to suit fabric Sut din to suit fabric General pu utpo se 100 General purpose neecie piate e 2 x gt Caution Always move the twin needie switch to the right FF symbol bet fore stitch ing with the twin needie Uniess inis 5 has been activated needie breakage will result Upon completion of your twin neecie Sewing return switch to is left position 1 symbol Twin Needie Switch r 000 AAAA ree a S 3 R i ar 5 Procedure Thread machine with first thread in usua manner making certain it passes between tension separator and rigni hand tension disc e Wind bobbin with enough thread io com Diete stitching Since a bobbin cannot be filed after a twin needie is inserted it is wise to keep an extra wound bobbin on
50. hoop more rapidly allowing some stitches to overlap A series of Dar iacks can be used to form Spray Ke leaves or flowers This technique aces variety and lightness to many designs Leaves and petals formed in this way may carry the thread from one bar tack to the next This carrying thread eii thread ends minates tying of the FREE MOTION STITCHING in free motion stiching you sew without a oresser foot and contro fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop Either a Straight or a plain zi 3 293 stitch can be used Because you can move the hoop ps any direc ton forward or backward from side to side or even diagonally free motion stitching is extremely useful for embroidery designs On the other hand itis equally useiui for Garning if you are embroidering you can vary the iengin of stitches SPY oy moving the hoop faster or slower under the needie The faster you move the Roos the longer ine stiches wil be You can aiso vary the wicth of zig zag stitches from wide fo narrow by controlling the angie at which the hoop is Diaced anc moved uncer ihe needie ror darning the embroidery hoop used in free motion stitching enables you to hold the fabric iaut a real advaniace when your fabric is lightweight or soft and thus likely to pucker See nage 32 for directions FLOWER EMBROIDERY e Pattern zigzag e Stich width to sult fabric e Feed cover needie piate e No messer foot Preparation
51. hty and positioning the fabric in front of needie Lower presser foot and stiich to end of seam Releasing the Chain from the Machine When you finish chainstitching the chain can easily be removed from the machine i Raise presser foot ot 2 Mold end of chain with your lef Rand Go Turn hand wheel Siowiy toward you with your right hand unti needie is aii the way Gown in ihe 562016 noie 4 Then turn hand whee siowiy away from you pulling gently on chain which will unravel as needie rises Note This is the only time you should ever turn hand wheel away from you 38 37 Removing Stitching from Fabric Chainstitching can be removed smoothiy anc cleanly in seconds by freeing the last sten formed in the fabric 1 Simply cut the last loop formed on the un derside of the fabric 2 Pick up the free thread end from the top of the fabric 3 Pull the free thread end removing entire tine of stitching Removing the Chainstitch Accessories e Raise take up lever to iis highest position end raise presser foot e Open slide plate and remove the chainstitch piate e Move bobbin iatch to teft and iif out the bob bin case insert e Replace zig zag or straighi stitch piate anc bobbin see pages 8 and 17 Close 6 nate e Unthread chainstitch eyelet in take up iever and rethread for reguiar sewing Removing Chainstitch Piate CHAINSTITCH APPLICATIONS Here are several ways in which you wil ti
52. ie Chart on page 12 i a i e Select straicnt hinc M VU e Clip detachable spool pin io inreac guiGepost o Using the two threads thread the machine in the regular way for Sing e needie siten ing For best results use size 50 mercerizec cotton thread or cotton wrapped polyester thread e Pass threads together inio tension discs and threading points above the e Cut thread ends clagonally and craw both through the eye of the neecie Make a stitching test to determine ine best stitch length and needie ihread tension A long stitch 2 5 to 4 on your stitch length dial is usualy besi e Sew at moderate speed S7 SMOCKING Smocking is a youthful decorative detail that is particulary charming when usec ior a yoke inseri or band on baby clothes ite giris dresses or lingerie ween worked by nand SMOCKING is a time consuming process However the heavy stitched look lypica of hand work can be Stitched quick yanc easily wih your machine when you use decorative patterns Procedure Space rows of straight stitching with stitch ingih pointer set on 5 1 4 ncn 6mm apart on the crosswise fabric grain Set tension dial between and 1 2 Pull up evenly for ihe amount of fuliness Gesirec Secure thread ends by tying knot ciose to the fabric to prevent caihers fro puiing out of position Basie section or area to be smocked to un Gceriay 4 Stitch over and between rows of gat
53. in het lef ar Lo 0 E E3 3 5 iO a 3 N m ii Aii Mes X We ES 3 a ad PEE Lem e T x f Lh i et 9 t gt I P n 3 L gs Pos XA n i v PEN tor ior a Ta eio y Les an 2 3 e ta 1 d ES Pg Mt foo TE c X ra Ss con o nm y 2 2 Lad S O E amp eu Pass E oN et EE X oy f 0 3 maim tr e Mu Com HERES 2 mart PER AR m PEE H amp Iw me AX c Lol 0 om RA wee We 2 ey e Ke n eite d IE Mac 13 X3 1 Y 7 M Seas 2 be e QUO q A dh bee 3 LOI af Lm E e AI Bee S DX II GIG ire EFE px 19 ye H amp H 5 gt a 3 ea ei 0 mov 5 ae 5 2 0 v 2a 5 e iY B ba ay sewing posit 7 Cu g raphi D f Far amp PF p Dia Ah ios mE na D n y p 4 TX eq a rw 2 os ES Lu T t Y ad c if gee S Ll Li 5 f Z fy Pe A e piaig i S RS m Ri m 2 4 m d T o 3 2 EVI Sci 1 f ag ie oo ech OO cn OW p SS e s SE Low OUS 2 EJ amp D H ose si B n e g2 u 2 Of 13 lt t V 2 G a X m i rris ms We 7 e thy wa o
54. ine Press after stitching anc trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge Whe the seam supports ihe garment omit ih trim ming step and press seam open in ihe usua way Overedged Seam Finish e Stitch overedce stretch stit 5 Stich width 5oniyt e Stich length to suf fabric and effect e Generai purpose needie ciate e Overedce foo e Speed range SLOW Adjust stitch jength to suit your fabric Trim seam edges Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam allowance as 0 tH a narrower stitch width is desired as for overedging fine fabrics use the general purpose foot in piace of the overedge foot S4 55 Biindsttich Kems Biindstiiching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible iiis best suited io Straight or slightly curved seams Taped bound or turned hem edges can aiso be oiindstiched with equal ease e Stitch biindstitch o Stitch width fo sult fabric e Stitch length to sult fabric a Genera purpose needie plate e General purpose foot 1 Raise foot loosen screw and slip blind Stitch hem guide between the screw and ine shank of the foot Make sure the under side of the guide clears the slide piate and tne front of the foot Tighten screw with coin 2 Prepare hem in the usual way it is acvisa ble to baste the hem Place the basting at least 1 2 inch 1 3cmj below the edge of the hem allowance to avoid catching the fange of the
55. mmend use of the SLOW Speed setiing when sewing Dulionhoies basi ing stitch decorative patterns or maxi sireich stitch y a i selecting a stitch Turn machine on You wil note 2 slight movement of 8 each time power switch is activated Rotate croup selector to choose one of fours which will contain wish io Sew dial to the right or left erent pattern groups the oarticular pattern you After rotating group 56160107 c i press Sutton under the desired pattern A rec ight wii ap pear above seieciec patern FETT MEA vy Bastey ttFex Stitch Patterns 29 TitfMax Srretch Stich s Such PATTERN REPEAT SUTTON The pattern renee Sutton on your machine leis yo sew one unit of a pattern For exam oie one ar nowhead ome Procecure Select desired pattern such as arrowhead shown here Press pattern repeat button Red light will appear above Press down on controller Machine will stitch one unit of ine pattern each time you follow this procecur You can also use pattern repeal bution tc icha series of identical buttonhoies as de scribed on page 73 anc 02 A in bobbin wind ing as described on page 5 INDIVIDUAL PREFERENCES ur sewing meen ne will produce mosi of To accommodate diferent fabric charac yout titcningr remenis aia preprogram teristics or satisfy a personal preference you med stitch width and Stich engin cen e rge the settings by openin k ine cover of the individual
56. n and streich nem tape Maxing chains French tacks io anchor linings e Basting for trial fittings Preparation e Select needie and thread according to your fabric See Fabric Thread and Needie Chart on page 123 Thread ine machine in the usua way except for ine take up iever For chainstitching pass ine thread through the triangu ar eyelet as Shown A Raise take up lever to its hignest posit and raise presser fool Open slide piat 2 Move bobbin iaich to left and remove bon bin and piate G3 Place bobbin case inseri im bobbin case as shown with finger of insert positioned under the feed 4 Position chainstich plate over pins making certain that ine post of the bobbin case insert finger enters tne noie in the plate Close side SEWING A CHAINSTITCH SEAN o Stitch straight stitch o Stitch iengt 2 5 3 e Bobbin case insert o Chainstitch needie plate e Straight stitch foot Starting and Chaining Off 1 Turn hand wheel toward you io position needie in very edge of fabric Lower the presser foot 2 Start the machine and stitch to end of seam Continue stitching beyond edge of fabric making a chain from one io two in ches long 2 5 to Som Do not attempt to stich in reverse Chainstitching can be sewn in a forward direction only Go Cut chain between fabric and presser foot 4 After chaining off start a new line of stitch ing by raising the presser foot slig
57. nc chainsii ching quicker than either regular straight siiching or hana basting Garment Fitting Time anc energy can be saved wh chainst tehing is used to baste garment sec dons or muslin sheils for trial fittings The firmness of the stitch ensures accuracy in fit ting yet the stit ning can be ripped out in sec onds if adjustments are necessary Construction Guidelines in many instances construction guidelines for pockets buttomholes and other details can be acvantageous y marked with cnainsttich basting The stitch Ag wi ii give a cieariy defined iine marking Yet unlike chalk ot pins it will not rub off or become iost as the fabric is handled This method lends itself particularly fo use on woois and other apres thai Go not retain ihe penetration marks of th needie Stay Stitching 0 nainsiiching can be used to stay sttch neck nes shoulderlines and waistiines before garment assembly riexibie yet firm inis siiching wil hold the original shape of these areas and prevent siretching 38 39 Slipcover Welting Tubular Trimming Chainstitching has an affinity for fabrics cut on the bias The ioop formation of the chainstitch is a natural for corded weiting anc tubular trimming where a certain amount of eiasticitv is needed to prevent stitches from cracking Belt Carriers and Stay Chains Stay chains sometimes called French tacks and belt loops normally time consuming hand work
58. ng jobs for which you wii find ine free arm particulariy useful are shown on pages 75 through 78 You will discover many more for yourself The following simple steps tell you how to convert your machine for free arm sewing f f preparation TO convert to free arm sewing Simply press Gown on corner of Flip amp Sew pane on sewi ng machin applications BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS Stitching buttonhnoies or sewing Suttons on a cuff or neckband is no longer a tesk when the free arm Su face iS used Cuffs siip around the sewing surface without being pulled out of shape so you can see and handie ine stiching area easily For DUONG ing follow the instructions for two step buttonholes that start on pace 72 Buton sewing instruction is given on page 58 me 8 ngae eeve The armhole rotates smoothly y the 2 Seams H 88 Flat topsticning arm is especi 4 hard to reach area over the se p ii bul 5 iS 2 3 am Free arm sewing taxes ihe 0 out o MSE i ng esi w ee ii m ctm ux x aare ater ES 3 MA nde ihe needie so thal you can piace stitcni ng a curateiy The extra control afforded by th PP r a ages sizes anc shapes can be b ES race di fe Boyes Si i Si se 5S ri z P ic 1 AST WARNING AND MENDIN
59. oes cioti nes can ne darned e lard Past ce With Accessories ich straight stitch Heh iengih Cover piate Darning and embroidery foot 9 e e L4 inm ragged edges from area to be darned nd center worn section in embroidery MS DARNING Without Accessories e Siton straight stitch ttes length betwee e General purpose need e Special purpose foot e Pressure setting darn F 1 t Li en 1an e oia a 1 8 1 ee 8 1 Select straight stitch 2 if area to be darned is open basie an un Geriav in piace Qo Place area io be darned under presser foot lower presser foot and star stitching aiternateiy drawing fabric toward you and pulling it geniy away from you 4 Continue this forward and backward mo Hon as vou f i ihe area with paraliei lines of stitching For addilionai strength cover area wiih crosswise ines of stitching HESITATION EMBROIDERY Hesitation embroidery is free motion embroidery using speed basting ihe ume ose thai occu ws between neecie penetra tons perm x1 hurried hoop movement ep preciaiec by ihe beginner it aiso permits unu iSuaiy ong stitches as well as short ones for unique decorative effect e Sitch basting stich e Stitch iength e Cover piate e Darning and embroidery foot e Speed range SLOW Trace or transfer design outline to fabric and center in embroidery hoop Des gne and motifs with
60. on opposite sides of the seam io pro duce ladder effect Press seam allowance after opening 56 e Sitch scallop e Stitch With to suit fabric and design e Stich length te sui fabric and design e Generai purpose needie piate e Genera purpose foot 4 I teins ir sa I Pi righi sides of fabric together t ec or Dias edges Should be inter faced Stich scallions Part Ne e Io 2 After st ching trim seam allowance to 1 amp inch 8mm o or iess 3 Clip points down io Hat stitch of scallions with scissors and if necessary to make 11 ii Et mh points iie fat notch curves t Tarps E 4 ie 4 em ET amp Tum io iB ie righi Side anc geniiv push fine scailops out Press fat Mending a Tear e Stitch multi atitch zig zag gt e Stich width 2105 e Stitch length programmed e General purpose neecie pizte e General purpose foot Many zig zag stitch patterns are iust as useful for mending as they are for creative Sewing The muiti stitcn zig zag forms a firm Siexicie pond that is idea far repairing tears r l i Trim ragged edges 2 Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement Do not baste or pin ihe underlay since you will be aringing ine edges together in ine next step Qo toh on the righi side bringing ihe edges of ihe iear together Shorten stitch length at ends anc corners to give extra su encth 1 7T 8 i 4 Trim undernav
61. ort open foot permits following curved Hines with ease and accuracy Binder Foot No 81200 The binder foot is used to appiy ready made bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an un finished edge it can aiso be useful for binding seam edges that might ravei ihe Even Feed Foot No 506415 The even feed foot is a perfect aid for stitch ing difficult to match fabrics such as plaids and Stripes and difficuli to feed fabrics such as fabrics that have a pile nap or a shiny sur face All these fabrics can be sewn without puckering and siipping your personal measurements TRIS chart wii enable you to keep a record of your measurements For perfect accuracy ask a friend to take your measurements Chest entire Take above bust and straight across Dack less Bust Take over fullest part of bustiine and straight across back 9 Shoulder length right aae 0 Shoulder to shoulder back Take from armhole to armhole at shoulder seam H Back widih Take 3 7om to 4 1Oom below shoulder seam at back armhole a Oo UC 1 0 PAL Lea ii Backwaist length Take from neck ne to waistline center o oi M Shoulder to bust APEX a ess 8 Shoulder to waist 8DeX eee vn enn 9 Front chest Take 3 7com Gown from shouider ai armhoie anc from armhole LO amp rmhOie eese hh hh a hans 10 Waistine Around natural waistiin
62. ou accidentaliy touch another control re select desired pattern then reaciusi desired control Ciose individual preference pane cover when you have attained desired sitch appearance 24 stitch needie piate you get this exciusive feat ure if you press another bution M take your machine will SHI sew a straigh stick Always change back to the appropriate nee cie piate and presser foot when sewing other than straight stitching SEWING IN REVERSE if vOu wi s to reinforce the beginning or en iG of 2 seam gress and hold the reverse stitch bution Machine wil only sew a St ragh i stich in reverse for as long as you hold the button regarciess of the stich patiern vot nave peen sewing prepara on For straight itching press punon under sir ght stich symbol n j or stitch panei 0 A red light wil appear above s Syme io indi cate that machine is ready to produce a basic straight stitch ht siitch needie plate and foot are bes for ight stitching Use these accesso res when fabrie requires close control They are especially helpful for stitching delicate fabrics re ang o UO mi o oe ae m O if you use ine straignt stich oe with a nee die plate other than the straight stiich needie ciate be sure to set the machine for straight stitching to prevent possibie needis breakage Note however that when you use ine straight e DEEDLE THREAD TENSION Having seiected ihe ed needie
63. r 3 vo BOY Vo 4 o on on BOR Ro v om ROS PON NOR OR NF N y 4 S Vox P OA voe Von ov x X ON OA ono o o9 POR OR mo 4 DEM al Fabrics 0 b SN Ro hom mos m hor A 3o 9 oe ROS Bot 4 bor on 3 4 A Y on n NON 4 on 4 c v op oo 8 OB Roa ON 4 S OC SN ROB chi nag 2 Sm locking 9i Twitt Need ie Si 7 Buttons and Buttonholes sucess A Y 9 x 8 m BON ov o4 Pom 9 4 oH or ON mn re 0 ADDHCAUONS Darning e Quilting e Chainsit 5 Basic Zig Zag Stitching Zig Zag Sinching Creative Applications 6 Machine Stitch Patterns saa enue nevus Adiust itches for Stretch Fabrics dancing Scecia Centering Stitch Usage Functional and Decorative Decorative Stitching Border Designs e Monograms e Topstit Buttons uttonhoies Buttonhole Position e Buttonhole Balancing the Buttonhole e Sti Carded Buttonholes 8 Free Arm Sewing Length Buitonhoie i ching a Series of Butto 9 Performance Checklist lees INNAM 10 Caring for Your Machine nans 11 Sewing Aids index POA PRIS EAE SOA accessories The accessories provided with your Mode 1200 sewin
64. r creative use Li decorative stitching Your new SINGER sewing machine has several decorative stiches These versaitie ienes alow you iO add imag nation anc creativity to your sewing orojecis Vn these decorative stitches you can appiy toc clothes anc household Hems interesting details youthful and feminine eccenis and per sonaiized effect Procedur Mark or crease fabric for ihe center line of first row of stitching a spacing Detween rows iS s not greater man i 2 inch som gauge aces oneal rows wit 5 the presser foot i spac g is wider marx for each line of stitchin Use a backing of crisp iawn organdy or a fusi ze interfacing and be sure to mare 2 a test sampie on a swaich of your fabric to check siten settings anc thread tension BORDER DESIGNS Border designs that add a decorative touch io wearing apparel and h ousehoid tems can be created combinin ng different types of straight stitching and zig zag stitching Sim nie or eiaDorate delicate or boid they can De varied io SUL ihe appiication Use them as you would a br or to simulate horizontal verti calor Dias MR on piain fabric create a motif by arranging individua pattern units to form a design Detailed information on pattern repeat button on page 21 When you use a decorative stitch pattern to form a motif your machine will automaticaly be programmed to start at the beginning of the pyramid Dead or whatever pattern you have
65. s highest setting e Sew another row turning the dial back t OU You should have a ba anced Sich on each row mid way between the start anc finish in each case e The different colored threads wih to see the effect thal the tension nas on in top and bottom threads Now thet you have observed ihe effects of tensi on we suggest that vou perform a similar M on a scrap of tne fabric Yos pian to use ng sure io cup cate he number of hic nesses of your garment 26 27 fabric handling PIN BASTING E Pin basting is a time saver and can be usec hen vou sew easy io handie fabrics Use fine nins and place them so that Y e They are ai righi angles io the presser fool and iust nip into the fabric at the stitching ine e They do not extend under both sees of the presser foot Nevers piace pins on the under side of the fabric in contact with the feed The basting sich produces iemporary ong stitches in a variety of lengths This allows you to choose the correct Engin for your Sew ing job considering the weight of your fabr ic and how securely ine pieces need fo be heic tog eter Af few ot the many sewing jobs for which you WHI ind speed basting particularly Sef are e Joining seams for trial fittings Marking construction guidelines e Basting pleats hems anc seams e Stich Speed basting e Length to sift fabric e Genera purpose piste e Genera purpose foot Note The even fe
66. s under foot to back of machine Hold thread ends and by turning the hand wheel toward you posi ton neec e in fabric a scant 1 4 amp inch 6mm in from starting edge 2 3 Stretch Garment Repair Reh M stich 3 ch width to suit fabric e Stitch length tosuit fabric e Genera purpose needie piate e Generai purpose foot e Speedrange SLOW Seams in sireich garments retain their ciasticity when stiiched with the M stitch PMs Stich pattern bulids stretch into the seam as if is be ing sewn and is equally suita bie when used to topstitch as shown or to overedce Make a test sampie to check stitch widih anc length settings Lace insertion Fine ace insertion and edging acd a feminine touch to blouses dresses and children s Wear Such trimming can be mace decorative t and curable when applied with the M stitch insertion Mark posit ion of lace and baste jace in position 2 Stich guidi ng work under needie so that the top of the stitches fall along the edge of ine lace as Hiustratec o DR rrim fabric away uncer lace insertion after sitching both edges 2 Some of the many appiications of the decora tive stitches inciuce borde Gesigns appii cues wenn tehing finished hems smocking embroidering monograms an 3 i 3 00 01 accent ines on cicihes ine A pt 8 s following pages severa ine decorative siiiches on your m vide exampies for thei
67. shaggy outlines and tex tured surfaces are usually best 2 Seiect speed basting 3 Position hoop under needie lower presser Dar and raise bobbin thread 4 Move hoop beck and forth filing design wiih iong and short stiches as in regular free motion embroidery as described on sage 45 QUILTING Quiling is the art of siliching two or more thicknesses of fabric together in a planned Gesign A padding is stitched to the underside of the fabric to produce a soft puffed effect that is becoming to some wearing apparel and fo many fabric furnishings e Stitch straight stitch e Stich length to sult fabric design and effect desired e Genera purpose needle plate e Straight stitch foot 2020011101 Note For besi results use the cuilting foot available for separate purchase at your ioca Singer store Preparing the Fabric Baste a ught padding of cotton Hannei syn thetic guit batting se i sneei wadding or a light tweigh woo interlining to the U nderside e ihe fabric When Sig sheet wadding fi back it with voile ba iste or net io reserve the sheet wadding through wear Baste the ayers of fabric together on the lengthwise anc crosswise grains Basic Procedure 1 Select straight stitch 2 Draw both threads under the foot and diagonaiy across feed to left 3 Position the e iower the foot and siari stitchin Note if vou are quilting a very large piece work from the center of the f
68. shank e Raise ne ecie anc take up lever io position by turning the hanc wheel you e Baise presser foot 1 Press toe of presser foot upward as far as it will go and then snap down to remove 2 Center the new presser foot under the shank and iower the oresser foot lifter so that the shank fiis over the psresser foot pin 3 Press presser icot screw down firmly until foot snaps inito piace To remove and repiace the shank o snap on presser feet follow instructions below for one piece presser feet One piece Presser Feet Button Foot and Zipper Foot e Raise needie and take up iever to highest position by turning the nand wheel foward you Raise presser foot e Loosen presser foot screw A anc remove ihe foot guiding it to ine right Note When changing one piece presser feet you should insert the edge of a coin the siot of the presser foot screw to tighten presser foot securely To Replace One piece Feet e Hook one piece foot around ine presser Dar and tighten oresser foot screw Darning and Embroidery Foot 1 Raise needle and take up lever to highest position by turning hand whee foward you 2 Raise foot 3 Loosen presser foot screw and remove presser foot shank 4 Guide car ming and embroidery foot into position from back of machine Make sure if ng finger B is above needie clamp 5 Tighten presser foot screw with coin CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES Note Remove bobbin E i
69. stitch centering To assure centered siliching on the fabrics you Sew use a guideline marked with tailor chalk stitch centering e Stitch stitch desired e Width to suit fabric and desired effect e Length to suit fabric and desired elect e Genera purpose needie piate e Special purpose foot e Speed range SLOW When sewing if is important to correctly guide the stitches on your fabric to achieve centered stitching A line of stitching is cen tered when it lies evenly on an imaginary line on the fabric To clearly see whai stitch cen tering is and to practice even stitch guicance and machine control iry the test Deiow Use a light color top and under thread for this tesi This will demonstrate to you now a cor rectly centered iine of stitching lies on a given une e Set machine on straigni stitch e Attach speciai purpose foot Notice that foot is clear plastic for better visibility and has vertical black line in the center to guide stitch placement on fabric 48 stitch usage functional and decorative Many stitches on your new machine have application to avoid repetition only one stitch both functional and decorative applications nas been used in each example We Tre folowing pages inciude exampies to il therefore hope that the exampies provided iustrate the versatility of these stitches wil help you io use your own creative talents Though many stitches can perform in a given Fagoting
70. t e Feed cover plate ATTACHING A BUTTON e Attach bution foot and feed cover piate to machine and turn on machine Select cveredge stretch stitch 5 turn hand wheel toward you until neecie moves to eft side Place garment under foot ton on garment ro hanc wheel again to iower needie into en hole of button and lower foot Turn hand wheel again carefully unti needie is iust above right noie Adjust stitch width 1 required so that needie will enter right hoie of Dutton See page 22 for information on stitch widih contro Run machine siowiy Allow at east three groups of crossover stitches to enter right hole of button Finish sewing on ett side e n position bu e amp e 9 buttonholes Ms new machine comes complete with a ouli in two step butionhole system Before sewi ng on your garment always make a test 2uitonhoile duplicating the number of thicknesses of fabric and interfacing if ap orooriaie BUTTONROLE POSITION Accurate Guide ines are esseniiai to Keep bui tonnoies at a untiorm distance from the edge of the garmeni eveniy spaced and on the grain of ine material Mark the center iine of the garment using hand basting machine speed Past ing or with ine Duttonnoie gauge found in the ac cessory box and tailors chalk For machine speed basting information see page 27 e Be Sure that tne space from the center ume to the finished edge of the garment is a ieast equal
71. ts and endings O0 eg e R 8 0 c e ou For Shorter or Longer Bae Hes Basing Stitches asting Stitches Speed basting requires a light needie thread tension When tension is correctly adiusted ches up io 7 inch 250m ong Should ie i im FE M tat in firm fabrics if dien 8 are longer than 1 0 E 1 i M inch piace tension on the fabric by holding i ile M Te H 1 s Sy ugmuy in front and back c o the presser toot as YOu Sew to prevent pucker 3 E Mb 4 See page 26 for further information on nee Gie ihread tension 28 x sewing a seam PREPARATION exu B AIS 3 Y DAS tit e sire shag ii Sic ceneraipurp fn t H 7 E e Siraighi Such root or genera purpose ioci in ine usual way fet 4 9m MM m9 RAS eu ue eee are Lee EE ABMC DN UG FOO gt Most fabrics can be niacec uncer ihe foot D Ami i iida a 8 raising the n foot ier LAI to it norma us if gt ner using 0 M 0 fa ori ayer or an N ot He e op raise ine presser titer to the high ri n 2j thus iner easing 9 ine space bet weer t anc neecie piate Hoid Dresser foot Her in OSI WRG ace ing fabric under in presser foot 11 e Lower presser foot iter ali nc sten io Sew the wav down ate 4 Ahlen wR 0 x 7 ino al 4 mo mh tm Pea Are 0 si arting iQ SIAM Al wie aono e A ivl zi ms p Emme a e MOST neecio in very COCO CO aare BY turni 7 the
72. ure 9 k vae o 9 Z Z 4 Za ms mM 2D O E e e e amp a 44 vw M Ed Y e amp e aced under presse 1 iv ni 0 E S are correct on AA x 0 5 Pig v a i e Correct presser foot is being used e Machine is correctly threaded See page 4 0 01 FEEDING DIFFICULTIES Fabric does not move properly under presser foot Make sure o Presser Dar pressure is correct for fabric being stitcned See page 46 e Presser fool or accessory is correctly at tached to machine See page 73 e Lint has not accumulated around feed SLUGGISH OR NOISY MACHINE Hand wheel difficult to turn over manually or increase in operating noise level Make sure e Bobbin case and feed area are free of lini and loose thread ends e Co e Bobbin has not been wound beyond the FULL ring e Presser bar has been lowered particularly when sewing dense fabric or doing free mo tion darning and embroidery Loose irregular straight stitches Make sure e Neecie thread has sufficient tension See page 26 e Needcie piate and presser foci are correct for fabric being sewn Fabric does not iie flat after stitching Make sure o Neecie thread tension is light enough See pace 28 There is sufficient presser foot pressure to noid fabric See page 48 e Stich length is short enough for fabric See pace 22 Approved Dealer wil examine the
73. ve chosen Th Stitches should He fiat against the fabric wiih oul causing the fabric to pucker i the stitches are not Hat and the fabric is puckered lower the needie thread tension by turning the dial fo a lower number 4 L zig zag stitching e Stitch zig zag e Stitch width to sun fabric a Shich length to suit fabric e Generai purpose needcie mate s General purpose foot Method No 1 Trimmed Seam Finish e Sich zig zag z or muiti e Stitch width to suit fabrie s Stitch length to suit fabric o General purpose needie 8 e Genera purpose foot stitch zig zag s Select appropriate stitch pattern k 2 Adiust stich width and iengih if necessary 4 Piace stitching near the edge of the seam aiiowance 4 Trim seam edges evenly as shown afer stitching is compieied creative applications Zig zag stitching has found a solid piace in home sewing ine zig zag stitch can be used creatively as well as practically The fol owns examples are effective uses of ihe zic za Sitch see results are lefi up to your magina rona ngen sully ZIG ZAG SEAM FINISHES Seam edges SU ippor the garment and shouic be given 2 durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel There are two meth OCs of finishing seams in such fabrics method 1 trimming after stitching seam edge orm 4 ethod 2 over edging Make a test sampie firs to Getermin which method best suits your fabric Method No 2
74. ved Seams oo ce cee i Reinforcing End of Seam sss 3 Straight Seams MM SO Turning Square Corners eee 30 Stress ATEBS sss 23 ui FES esee hrs 26 Er ading the Machine rs 14 75 Topstite Hp DEED 66 Twin Needle Stitehing reanna 68 Twin Needie Switch oo ee eee rss 24 Zig Zag Stitehing ns 0 57 ACCSSSOTES ras 3 4 5 AgOHCUE sss 44 BASING cee n 27 38 Chainstitehing esee ees 35 Pin era a rs 27 Speed Bast inc by Machine sss Ses 27 Siincsiich Hem GUCE 1 Sindsitch Hem Bobbin 6 3 Newly VOunG lea 28 Raising Bobbin Thread ee 19 Removing Sobbin sens 57 REMOVING Thread eee eee 7 Resiacing an Empty Bobbin 17 Resiacing a Wound Sobbin oo ae 18 Winding sures 18 Butionholes sen MENU 70 72 Balancing ss 78 Corded Suttonholes ssn T4 Series of Buttonhoies n 73 Suttons DEMNM 68 Caring for Your Machine sess 82 Chaining Off esa eee eer 36 Chainstching 35 Circuit Breaker ce eee 83 Darning ce ss 32 33 78 Decorative Stiiches eee 54 Elastic Replacing sss 58 Ciectrical Connections o es rras 8 Emoroidery sens 33 45 FabriceHanciing Table eee 47 3

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