Sears 385. 1884180 Sewing Machine User Manual
Contents
1. control 2 to D Hl ee a a br Decorative Stretch Patterns Set the Machine Top thread tension A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 3 to 6 3 2 A Stitch length contra yellow stretch stitch position N GE Ka 4 a Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Decorative stretch patterns can be used for adding creative and personalised touch to the items you sew for your home and family You can decorate children s clothes women s blouses curtains etc 59 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 3 Ki Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length contral green zone L foot Stretch Stitch The Stitches and Their Uses These stitches are purely decorative You can sew one row or several or vary the stitch width and length for special effects Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see what special effects are possible 60 Here s How EE SSA a L 1 0 4 2 F Satm stitch 3 Adjust the stitch width and length as you desire Practice the stitch on a scrap of fabric Mark the lines for decoration on the fabric using a washable fabric marker Lower the needie at the starting point Lower the presser foot Gently guide the fabric along the maked line L What to Do When PROBLEM Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size need2. F Satin stiteh foot Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and outlining applique Uses Satin stitch see page 36 Applique see page 37 Monogramming see page 38 Shell stitching see page 54 Geometric decorative stitching see page 60 Blind Hem Stitch Foot G Blind hem stitch foot Use this foot for perfect blind hemming The foot has ridges on the bottom to keep the fabric from slipping and a guide screw on top to guide the folded edge of your hem Uses Blind hemming see page 43 Overedge Foot C Overedge foot This foot is especially constructed for stitching and or overcasting seams The small brush and wire guides help control the fabric hold the raw edge in place and keep it from puckering especially when sewing on knit fabrics Uses Overcasting stitch see page 40 Serging see page 42 Quilter EE Quilter This attachment turns your zigzag foot into a quilting foot Uses Straight stitching see page 33 13 o Presser Foot Types Continued Buttonhole Foot Use this foot when making buttonholes with Buttonhole foot buttonhole attachment system Uses 14 Buttonhole making see page 48 Choose Your Needle and Thread Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing In your needle case you will find the following color coded needles Blue in Tor stretch fabrics Orange 11 fo
3. B Free arm sewing e DD H Hand wheel K e EE dE Ress 3 19 Herring bone stretch 29 56 Hook race e 84 L Lace work Z Large screw driver cece cas 4 6666 Light and power switch se see se 23 5 Light uf 6a 65 66 Lint brush 02 E amp 83 66 M Monogramming 28 38 N Needle VIE 65 66 Needle clamp TE EEN E Needle plate e 2 17 Needle thread and fabric chart 18 Needle threading lt ss EE EE ee 18 19 O HH le EE eee ed 64 Overcasting stiteh A Overcasting stretch ee ae Pel EE ATs Overedge stitch 29 58 Overedge foot 4 13 27 40 42 65 66 P a IT lt 2 aa 712 Performance problems 8162 Plug CONNECTOT Ese RE ck lt Portable case ce 2 Power switch A DB Practical stitch chart 2 26 30 Pressure control dai 6 Presser foot 0 0 ee A 1014 Presser foot Jever si Sh ee Ge OE EL Push pull clutch A 16 a Quilter o 4 13 26 33 65 66 R Reverse stitch control 2 28 31 Rick rack stretch stitching z 26 40 S Satin stitch foot 4 12 27 29 30 36 38 54 60 65 66 Satin stitching EEN EE UE Seam guides e 2 Sergin 6 4 bee ea ee cee ee OES AE Serging or pine leaf stretch EE 27 sa Sewing Dot 8 5 Shell stitching eile Eee 27 54 Sliding buttonhole foot EK 4 12 30 46 47 65 66 Small screw driver A 65 66 Smocking 27 55 Snap on button 93 10 Speed
4. Guide slot Gutde block Base plate 2 a When you have selected the template with the size and style button hole you need slide the template into the guide plate b Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button hole size you have chosen is at the setting mark c Insert gear of base plate into slot of template and fit guide block into the center of the guide slot 50 Top thread Starting Doum thread Attach the buttonhole foot b Adjust position of gear so it is aligned with the starting point of template The lever can be used to change gear position c Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel toward you while holding top thread d Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of guide plate Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread Marked buttonhole Center Fabric Measurement markings p NOTE Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment Placing your garment behind the machine insert it between the guide plate and the buttonhole foot as shown Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonhole foot Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the guide plate just in front of the buttonhole foot as shown Pierce the fabric with the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole if you want your buttonhole to be 1 2 inch from the garment edge line up the fabric with the 1 2 inch markings eac
5. The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded fabric Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks Shell stitching can be used to finish hems sleeve and neck openings Shell tucking can be used to create scalloped tucks on blouses and lingerie 54 Here s How 1 For best effect set the stitch length as you desire you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly alow the needle to just clear the foided edge of the fabric when it zigzags 2 If you sew rows of shell stitches space the rows 5 8 apart You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or sott silky wovens in any direction Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Zigzag foot Stitch width control 3 to 6 Stitch length contro orange A Stretch Stitch GEE d 4 This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well Smocking Set the Machine l l Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 3 1 4 5 8 6 os CS ED Stitch length control yellow Stretch stitch position AE Mf a Stretch Stitch 3 4 With the stitch length at 747 sew straight stitching lines 3 8 across the area to be smocked Knot the threads along one edge Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly Secure the threads at the other end Sew t
6. INFORMATION i D GE MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION EE lf the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS CANADA INC TORONTO ONT M5B 288 385 Printed in Taiwan Part No 652800122 57
7. N 4 L Stretch Stitch Here s How Put the darning plate on the needle plate see page 32 Remove foot holder see page 10 Adjust the stitch width as desired see page 23 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk Stretch the fabric between embroi dery hoops and place under the needle Lower the presser foot lever to engage the top thread tension Holding the top thread in your left hand rotate the hand wheel toward you one complete turn Pull the top thread to draw the bobbin thread through to the surface of the fabric Using a medium speed stitch along the marked outline guiding the fabric carefully by hand oe Sew a Button Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag foot Stitch width contral Must be adjusted 2 2 A 1 5 0 Kai CS Stitch length control Any number not necessary to adjust ER Mf 4 Stretch Stitch Darning plate Use the darning plate for button sewing see page 32 1 Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser foot 2 Adjust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole 3 Lower the foot to hold the button in place Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the button 4 Stitch several times To strengthen the shank cut the threads leaving a 8 tail Bring the needle thread down through the hole in th
8. Switch Nomenclature Plate Foot Control Plug Connector Needie set Lint brush Darning plate Small screw driver Spooi pin telt P Satin stitch Straight g toot Quiter stitch toot Sliding buttonhole toot lind hem Blind Buttonhole foot Zipper foot stitch toot Overedge foot Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Buttonhole templates Set Up the Machine e Ptug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power supply plug Power Power Z supply switch Dn Pe L Ze Ga e Plug S connector Machine plug NOTE Betore inserting the plug into your machine be sure the power switch is OFF 1 Check your outlet to be sure itis a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet 2 Insert the machine plug into the three prong outlet as shown It will only fit one way 3 Insert the power supply plug into the outlet Sewing light C C Power switch 4 Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light SAFETY FEATURE Your machine will not operate unless the jight power switch is turned on If you are interrupted or stop sewing turn off the light power switch to prevent injury to children a Foot Control Use Foot control The toot control regulates the speed at which you sew To increase speed gently press down with the ball of your foot To decrease speed release your foot pres sure slightly NOTE The foot control ts sensitive and wi
9. is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil is absorbed STITCH SELECTOR indicated by the red line on the indicator panel EES 3 ie K There are certain types of stitches that are used more often than others in your garment construction Because of their frequent use you will soon realise the convenience porated to you by this control The desired stitch will be obtained by turning the Stitch Selector Dial until t the stitch e ON SEI DC D G C D GO D D D DD OO D C GO OO COO EES CARE FREE STITCHING depends on the BIG 6 NEEDLE Make certam your needle Is correctly inserted with flat side away trom you Be sure needle is not blunt NEEDLES SHUTTLE THREADING SHUTTLE Clean in and around the shuttle and feed dogs to remove accumulated dust and lint which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING and the LITTLE FEEDING MATERIAL DOESN T FEED PROPERLY Check push pull clutch OILING Open tace cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year One or two drops of oil is sufficient Remove excess Dil otherwise it may stain tabrics in case machine is not used for an extended time oil it before sewing Use THREADING THREAD CAN TANGLE AND SNAP without being seen H your thread breaks unthread and then RETHREAD the machine both top and bottom threads TOP THREADING BOTTOM THREADING Make sure there is no slack or 1 Insert bobbin
10. on extended edge The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment After hemming press both sides of the finished hem The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches 43 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 2 A 1 ds H 6 H g3 E Ca Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 1 2 TAN 3 4 a Stretch Stitch Lace adds a fanciful teminine touch to blouses and lingerie Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace A Zigzag foot Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 6 8 Place lace underneath and top stitch using stretch blind hem stitch Trim excess fabric close to stitching 44 Buttonhole Making e Learning to Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes You may use the built in system or you may use the snap in automatic buttonhole attachment system Choose the buttonhole style 1 Built in bottonholes rectangular Choose this style for waistband cuffs belt slots or where you will need only one or two buttons 2 Round end buttonhotes Template No 213504005 213505006 Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses blouses vests jackets or coats 3 Keyhole buttonholes Template No 213506007 Choose this style for tailored vests jackets coats or any time you need more room for button shank Si aa ARASH tes L ieas AAN
11. ECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE 1 For two years from the date ot purchase Sears will free of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which A appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine including motor wiring switch and speed control b and printed circuit boards R FULL 90 DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS S For 90 days from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service t necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance To obtain warranty service described above SIMPLY CONTACT THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN A CANADA This warranty applies only while this product is in use in CANADA This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state d SEARS CANADA INC TORONTO ONT MSB 2B8 d d ae ft R MRF fe A0 GE OE N AE OE AE AT TT AE pr Hi E ET TT AL TEL AE AA pe Die r FE AA AA AN AR AI AT SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center Be sure to pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 3 for location WHEN GRDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
12. EEN id AAA NAN NANAH M I L Tips on buttonholing Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used Tear paper away after stitching if it is used For heavier weight fabrics loosen your top thread tension slightly 45 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 3 Ka CS G Stitch length contro Blue zone ED z 1 GE 3 E SC Top thread tension control 2 to 8 N Stretch Stitch Sliding buttonhole foot e geen SETS arp kela ee aaae D m aa Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial 1 For less density turn the dial toward 1 2 For more density turn the dial toward 0 NOTE Always make a practice but tonhole on a scrap tabric you plan to use to find the more suitable stitch length 46 g a Caretully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Change to the sliding buttonhole foot C Insert the garment under the toot with the buttonhole mark ing running toward vou Coarse stitches tor heavy abrics Fine r 2 sutches d E a tor fight y A fabrics 0
13. L Stretch Stich 2 a Move the slider A toward you so that the top mark C on the slider meets the start mark B b Line up the markings on the foot with the top mark on your garment c Lower the presser foot NOTE The markings on the slider are engraved in centimeters 4 3 a b Set the stitch selector at Sew forward until you reach the front marking ot your button hole Stop sewing at the lett stitch 4 a Set the stitch selector at D l b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the right stitch NOTE When sewing at the edge of fabric set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated and sew in reverse HPM a Set the stitch selector at H e AMAMAAAMAAL Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole Stop sewing at the right stitch 6 a Set the stitch selector at D c b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the left stitch Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener in your accessory storage box 47 o Using Buttonhole Attachment Buttonhole Attachment System For more varied and accurate buttonholes you will enjoy using the button hole attachment and templates Know the parts read carefully how to set up your machine properly You will need these items for the buttonhole attachment system Guide slot Measurement marking Catch Buttonhole guide plate Guide block Buttonhole tem
14. Machine sr ec te ees pg Plugin the Machine and Switch on the Power 5 o Foot Control User B o Setthe Speed Range Switch ee 6 a Setthe Pressure Dial a D o Setting Spool Pins 0 ct eee ee TF Adjust the Presser Foot Lever 2 200 ee EE e Thread Gutter aere orraa ee ENEE piece ts FE s Accessory Storage Box 2 2 2 00 ccc B Free Arm Sewing the Removable Extension Table 8 9 Know What the Presser Feet Wii Do TO e Check Your Presser Foot 20 a Change the Presser Feet eee 10 Presser Foot Types cer cee tr eee 11 14 Choose Your Needle and Thread 1415 Check Your Needle scorso EE ee ree 14 s Fabric Needle Thread and Stitch Length Chart 15 e To Change Your Needle 15 Prepare the Bobbin knee RTA 16 17 e To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine 16 e Wind the Bobbin A pa pela 16 e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder 17 Prepare Your Top Thread RR eter bce me eae MEAT Thread Your Needle 00000 E Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Shite ed IS a Adjust the Top Thread Tension 20 21 Stitch Selector c era A EER eo oa eee ES ae ka SCT Stitch Length Control 22 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance EE 22 Stitch Width Control se date added o Three Needle Position fea Te ASE ARE 23 24 Reverse Stitch Congo Z Starting To Sew wes sb ee ecco MED ee A ew GE ve 25 LEARN THE STITCHES Practical Stitch Chart 26 30 Str
15. OWNER S MANUAL SEARS Kenmore SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385 1884180 SEARS CANADA ING Dear Customer You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine Betore using your new Kenmore machine please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care tor your machine Specific instructions are given on threading tension adjustments cleaning oiling etc This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate as identified on Page 3 of this booklet Model No 385 S Serial No Retain these numbers tor future reference THIS MODEL 15 A CENTER NEEDLE LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE SECTION 1 SECTION 2 SECTION 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available 2 Locate and Identify the Parts iss Ze identify the Accessories sies ek EE te eee 4 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the
16. STITCH CHART STITCH gee a ae eee oe an ee a me Foveneoce VVV onanossone asos oroa a maer Rea Ssss veuionrosmon veeg aros a eessen vetiowrosrrion 2t0s aroe a overcast AAA YELLOWPOSITION 3706 2706 SERGING 7777 YELLOW POSITION 3TO6 3TO6 ELASTIC 3TO6 3 TO6 PATCHING Se ee 5TO6 2T06 HERRINGBONE VY YELLOW POSITION 3TOS 2706 STRETCH DECORATIVE YELLOW POSITION 3706 2706 BUTTONHOLE Aww ial EN FT BLUE ZONE 3TOS6 2TO6 BUTTONHOLE wey a DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS Ie Sos GREEN ZONE 3 T06 SATIN 2 LENGTH DIAL 1 SELECTOR 3 WIDTH 4 TENSION 5 PRESSER DIAL CONTROL FOOT ORANGE ZONE 2 gt bL ln gt gt p L E PP i 7 2 2 TOG 3 TO 8 3 TOB F L T AA AR AE AT AL TT AT AT TT TT AT TT AT AT TT OP TM MA OE OE GEE EP EP i ir er ia e H g up Eer HE De We fir RL Ter bh e Di Mee vi Be OE er it ME Eer EE Ger pt er W a ee MR pr dn t v WARRANTY FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase Sears will tree of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the sewing machine head 0 FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON EL
17. TAA fess Sliding Buttenholes also corded buttonholes 46 47 buttonhole Buttonhole Straight buttonholes and keyhole 48 51 buttonholss Use tor applique work also as decorative 36 finish for placemats blankets collars cuffs and pockets Straight Stitches e Straight Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control D or GD 2 3 1 t 5 G 6 LeS Kai CS Top thread tension control 2 r S Stitch length control orange zone Es D a Stretch Stitch H Straig NOTE ht foot Best sewing results are obtained with the straight stitch foot but the zigzag foot will also provide acceptable results and can be used for al needle positions Before sewing with the straight stitch foot always set the stitch width control to 0 or C gt to avoid breaking the needle 1 Raise the presser foot 2 Raise the needie to its highest position 3 Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate 5 8 is most common 4 Draw the threads toward the back and lower the presser foot Press the foot control Hold the fabric loosely and gently guide it along the guide line so that rt feeds naturally Do not force the fabric or try to pull it tight At the beginning and end of seam You may want to reverse to lock the stitch Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric Cut the threads Cornering g
18. aight Stitches ie X T eee 31 33 e Straight Stitch Sud eR ge EE EE a e Use the Seam Guides feck co RIE easiest Birk SOA e Turn a Square Corner EE KEES DE IR To 31 e Use the Darning Plate EES 32 e Topstitehini e rena pee ea eee AE et 32 K QUINO i dee Be ee Be BEE Eee BRE Phe Se 33 Dann eg dk ER ed ade eee ee EE ie DEENEN Straight Stretch oL 0 000 e ues Bole Ek 34 Zigzag Stitches pectin N ho a ee 35 42 e Basic Zigzag 6 2 ee DEE SE Aere AB e Satin Stitch aaee e 1 lt Applique sos ER 2 ha nob RR RO RENEE Ee RE EE 37 Bar Tacking n BEE Rates E T e Monogramming 700 e ere EE steer 38 Embroidery ii edd cle eed deg tees aes T e SewaButton VW et ee EE AREA e Overcasting Stitch ce ce 40 e Rick Rack Stretch 40 o Three Step Zigzag K HA RIT MH o Overcast Stretch Stitching DEE AS Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching 42 Bina Danang oc hea es DEEN K e eebe dee Ae e a tok Ack 44 Buttonhole Making 45 51 Learning to Sew Buttonholes Mun ees 45 Builtin System ec tee ale 46 47 e Using Buttonhole Attachment cee eee Ale Sew in a Zipper 0 EE ee Shell Stitching 0 eee ee eres 54 Two Point Sheil EER Se ch e 54 Smoking 2 ps ena a heed a Ed MG TE R Stretch Patching E si ae EE EE N Fagoting Stitch SEA EEN OG Herring Bone Stretch Hb Aoi EE EE EE Fey OB Elastic Stretch Stitch 0 ce ce
19. bric joiner applique pieces on the tabric Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique When sewing corners lower the needle down into the fabric Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left a Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 6 3 2 1 4s jy 8 CS CD Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 EER AE N H Stretch Stitch Zigzag toot This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners or pockets and straps on lingerie Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches 37 e Monogramming Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 to D 23 1 0 EI Top thread tension control 2 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to t EE SS 3 dy 0 4 a Stretch Stitch aft F Satin stitch foot 38 Here s How 1 Set the same as satin stitch 2 Back the fabric with paper or interfacing 3 Draw the letters on the fabric with tailor s chalk A Satin stitch adjusting the stitch width as necessary to form each pattern 5 TP using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing Embroidery Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 No presser foot Barring plate Sdtch width control 1 to 6 2 2 4 Stitch length control Any number not necessary to adjust we Mf
20. cee 57 Box Stitching se EE SE Two point Box Stitch 2 0 0 0 ee D I Overedging Stitch ce ee te DD Decorative Stretch Patterns i e ss D9 Decorate with Geometric Patterns 60 SECTION 4 PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do Wien 61 62 SECTION 5 CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replace the Light Bulb 504 ER 63 Clean the Bobbin Holder wee 63 Clean the Hook Race and poe Doe ENEE 64 Oiling the Machine da hag Ba EE BF PARTS B L WEE eee EED ED SA A BR SHOES 65 66 INDEX EE DE Ak 67 68 SECTION 1 KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog Another option buy a Carrying Case then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored any where Locate and Identify the Parts Thread Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindle Upper Thread Guide Pn ai Ea DE ee Take up Lever Top Thread Tension Control me Stitch Width Control Pee cover Plate Stitch Length Control Thread Cutter Needle Plate Speed Range Switch Reverse Stitch Control Base Extension Table Accessory storage box Arm Cover Piate Carrying Handle Sp 7 Thread Guide Presser Foot Needle Clamp Thumb Screw Presser Foot Hand Wheel Push Pull Clutch Presser Foot Lever ar 7 Free Arm Stitch Selector Stretch Stitch Adjuster Light and Power
21. ching emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams and edges flat and crisp Accent suits or blouses with one or two rows of topstitching around the outer edges of cuffs lapels or collars Here s How 1 Lower the presser foot 2 Keep the edge of the fabric next to the right edge of the presser foot 3 Evenly guide the fabric along this edge to produce an even row of topstitching 5 87 from the edge is Straight Stitches e Quilting Set tha Machine Stitch width control 0 or CED Stitch length Top thread tension contral orange control 2 to 8 zone qo H Straight foot A Zigzag foot The Stitch and its Uses Quilting is stitching two layers of fabric together with batting in between to add dimension and warmth Traditionally quilting has been used for bed covers but now it is used everywhere You can use quilting on entire garments or parts of garments such as yokes pockets cuffs and collars It is also popular for table fashions In addition to straight stitch quilting you can quilt with decorative stitches or stitch pattern combinations Quilter holding screw vay 7 Here s How To do auilting successfully follow these simple steps 1 Loosen the auilter screw on the back of the presser foot as shown 2 Slide the quilting guide into the opening under the screw to the width between lines of quilting stitches you desire 3 Tighten the screw Sew the first row o
22. ding the bobbin Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes out on top Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks Holding onto end of thread depress the foot control When the bobbin is slightly filled stop the machine and clip the thread coming from the bobbin Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and clip the thread Remove the bobbin Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation U s Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder 1 Put the bobbin into the bobbin holder so that the thread feeds _courter clockwise left 2 Pull about 4 inches of thread toward you through the tension slot A 3 Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through the slot d Slide the bobbin cover plate while pushing it down slightly over the bobbin Allow about 4 inches of thread to show above the needle piate 17 Dr v vas ere a e vm var vm WE D Gi ze The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight 18 Raise take up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you Raise presser foot lever Place spool on spool pin as shown with thread c
23. dle tor thread and tabric Insert new needle Reset needle Loosen upper thread tension Starting to stitch too fast Improper threading Tight upper thread tension Incorrect size needie Sharp eye in needle Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate Start to stitch at a medium speed Rethread machine Loosen upper thread tension Choose correct size needle tor thread and tabric Insert new needle Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise 62 Improper bobbin threading Lint in bobbin holder or hook race Darning plate in place Stitch Length set at 0 Thread knotted under fabric Push pull clutch is disengaged Thread caught in hook race Lint in bobbin holder or hook race Check bobbin threading Clean bobbin holder and hook race Remove darning plate Adjust Stitch Length Control Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch Push in the clutch Disassemble and clean hook race Clean bobbin holder and hook race 1 Replace the Light Bulb Unplug the machine and open the face cover CAUTION The light bulb will be HOT Protect your fingers when you handle it Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter clockwise to remove it Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise k Clean the Bobbin Holder To insure that your machine operates at it
24. e button and wind it around the shank Draw the thread to the bottom side and knot 39 o Qvercasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 3 T 4 5 0 6 Top thread tension Die E contro 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange zone ER Y a Stretch Stitch Ll E SO C Overedge foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project 40 Helptul Hints Start overcasting about 1 8 inside the raw corner of your seam If you start right at the edge the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled o Rick Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 6 1 5 0 6 2 3 es Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Zigzag foot GED Ca Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position EE 3 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch tabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well e Three Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 ta 6 2 3 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to i EE SVs dj 0 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch You may use the three step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag st
25. ed to decorate with trims appliques and cut out work or as a decorative stitch Here s How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch Consult the specific variations for detailed directions Satin Stitch page 36 Applique Work page 37 Bar Tacking page 37 Monogramming page 38 Embroidery page 38 Button Sewing page 39 Overcasting page 40 35 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 6 T Z 5 9 6 Top thread D T tension D control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 7 E a 4 Ein Stretch Stitch F Satin stitch foot Jog N Pressure dial 1 or 2 The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge for ex ample blankets linens tablecloths and napkins The Satin stitch ts especially attractive in applique 36 Zigzag width Sutech length i 2 8 3 A S Ciose ta 0 rd co S 2 S E Here s How Once your machine is set up to stitch you may want to experiment on a fragment ot the fabric you are planning to use Too tight satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics e Applique Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 106 6 2 3 3 4 5 D 6 Top thread tension ED Gs Ca control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to th GE 3 0 a Stretch Stitch F Satin stitch toot SS Pressure dial 2 4 Baste for fuse with iron on ta
26. es and lingerie Firush hems sleeve and neck openings Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam Do sheli tucking on blouses and lingerie ue N Geert Ge Use for overlapping seams KE Thread Ey Stitch Neate GE 3 8 Orange Zone BOX STITCHING ELASTIC Yellow Use tor applying elastic 57 STRETCH Stretch Stiteh S Position FAGOTING Jom two folded edges for decorative open work appearance STRETCH PATCHING Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Use for patchwork quilting TWO POINT SHELL STITCHING Orange Zone Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie This stitch can also be used as a single overlock strteh as well 28 Stitch Stitch Selection HERRING BONE STRETCH TWO POINT BOX oe OVEREDGE STITCH STRETCH STITCH DECORATIVE DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS Foot and Other Attach Zigzag Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Zone Use as hammang stitch tor blankets tablecioth and draperies Use for overlapping seams Yelow Stretch Stitch Position Use tor overedging Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch Decorate garments with one row or several one stitch or a combination 30 BUTTONHOLE wiewen AIZEN Boe SATIN STITCH Stitch Selection Thread Stitch Stitch E Te
27. f stitching 5 Sew other rows guiding the quilting quide over the previous row of stitching NOTE When you are quilting large areas tack the layers together with the basting stitch Then quilt from the center out Another quilting variation Instead of quilting with rows of straight stitches you can bartack your quilt at reguiar intervals Set up the machine as if you were going to sew a button see page 39 Position you fabric and bartack 33 Top thread tension control 2 to6 No presser foot Darning plate 34 Set the Machine Set the Machines Stitch width Stitch width contro Dor CD control 0 or Cad 3 2 2 3 h 5 4 4 5 D 6 0 6 CS D ex ee 2 Stitch length Top thread tension Stitch fength control 2 to 6 control yeHow stretch stitch position PN Mf control any number inot necessary to adjust PEN dh Stretch Stitch Here s How 1 Put the darning plate on the needle plate see page 32 4 2 Remove presser foot and foot holder iste page 10 stretch fabric between DIE ernbroidery hoops with hole centered e Stretch Stitch 3 Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning H Straight foot The Stitch and its Uses This stitch is the stretch variation of the straight stitch especially develop A Lower the presser bar and sew a
28. g or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 27 3 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position EE Li A Stretch Stitch C Overedge foot The Stitch and Ire Uses Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat It is ideal for 1 4 seams on knits or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam It is also great tor making elastic swim wear Here s How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made over the edge NOTE When using stretch knit fabric use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches Blind Hemming Sat the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 eae 3 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control orange Streteh Stitch Blind Hem Stitch Foot G 1 2 Light f ile St X we When the Weight needle Fabric IS comes to the right Heavy Weight Fabric Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire See overcasting page 40 Measure turn up your hem and pin NOTE For light weight fabrics you may need a double fold 3 Fold the material bottom side out on the edge to be stitched as shown leaving 1 4 of the finished hem edge showing Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn
29. g sewing Release to sew forward again Starting To Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew 1 Inspect the needle it should be straight properly set and sharp on the point it should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needies more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adiust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5 8 seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the foot control the faster the machine will sew Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam Always f
30. h time you start to sew a buttonhole 5 a Lower the buttonhole foot b Start sewing slowly c Allow the machine to do the work by itself Do not try to guide the fabric d Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins To release the buttonhole base plate pull the lever toward you and lift the base plate off the machine Adjusting the stitch density You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length control from 4 to 3 Fine stitches tor Haht fabrics Stitch length control 4 to 3 EE x Uy S Z O Coarse stitches d i tor heavy tabrics e D i P Stretch Stitch 51 Fabric Preparation Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening Use the reverse to lock the stitches Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at 4 and top thread tension at ar End of opening Top side S of fabric Set the Machine Stitch width contre D or Ce 2 3 Tap thread tension control 2 to 6 Zipper teeth Zipper tape Stitch length control 2 2 AE To Sew Mf l 1 Reset stitch length at 2 and top 0 LU Stretch Stitch To attach the zipper foot The pin an the jett hand side To sew on the left side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot To sew on the right side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot thread tensi
31. he decorative stitch between the gathering stitches Pull out the gathering stitches NOTE Loosen the tap thread tension to make gathering easier apart Stretch Patching Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 to 6 2 3 4 Top thread tension rat 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch positon EE df p 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses For patching worn out elbows or knees 55 Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 to 6 3 Top thread tension contro 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 2 KK SV 3 KI 2 Stretch Stitch 3 A Zigzag toot The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest 56 Here s How Fold under each fabric edge 5 8 and press Pin the two edges to paper or tear away backing 1 8 apart Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needie catches the folded edge on each side Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to D 1 5 o 6 cm CS lt x Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position SE lif 7X Top thread tension control 2 to 6 4 LU Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and its Uses Use as hemming stitch for blankets tablecloth and draperies Here s How Place the fabric top side up and sew 3 8 from the edge Trim close to sti
32. inish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the norma feeding is altered When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you 25 STRAIGHT j t 1 U L U l l H STRAIGHT STRETCH ZIGZAG RICK RACK STRETCH 3 BLIND HEM STITCH 3 Straight Z Quilter Darning Zipper plate foot Straight Blind hem stitch Refer to Page Regular searms zippers topstitching darning Ger 52 53 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Use on knits and other stretch fabrics good for topstitching Finish edges buttons satin stitch applique monogram embroidery sewing bar tacks Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Zone Decorate garments with one row or several Use for finishing seams OVERCAST STRETCH THREE STEP ZIGZAG Yellow Stretch Stitch Position SMOCKING STITCH STITCH SERGING Overedge D Blue 11 onp 18 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Zone Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Refer to Page Use tar swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch Use tor finishing seams Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch Finish hems sleeve and neck openings Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam Do shell tucking on blous
33. into shuttle making sure bobbin snags m the thread Use the rotates counter clockwise type ot thread and size needle 2 Pull thread through slot A and then to the jeft recommended in your instruc Pull thread through notch B and leave thread tion book about 4 inches long COMPLETING THREADING Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn Next pull top and bottom threads under and to the back of presser foot good quality sewing machine oil Remove darung amp TENSION Compare your straight stitching with the jllustratrons Jf it looks Hke either of the top two correct the thread tension dial as shown BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING BEFORE YOU START ADJUSTING Sen Top thread too tight Decrease tension Increase tension Top thread too loose SEE GEEET Arcs Correct stitching IMPORTANT For your satety an important new feature has been mcorporated in this machine The light power switch provides electric current tor the motor as well as the light in order to operate the machine this switch must be on If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended just turn off the light power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by pressing on the foot control This feature also applies when the machine is in storage The toot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high SE Se PRACTICAL
34. itch it has more strength elasticity and is flatter than a regular zigzag The three step zigzag stitch is especial ly usetul for mending sewing patches smoothly and securely repairing straight tears finishing seams Seam Finishing Overcasting Mending Place the fabric under the presser toot Position the tear under the needle so so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides the right hand side oi the presser toot Gunde the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge ot the fabric 41 Set the Machine Stitch width contro 3 to B Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length Control yellow stretch stitch position EE Rg YZ a Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used tor sewing a seam with an overcast finish The seam is formed and finished in one operation It can be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch 42 Here s How Place the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle as shown Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short ot the outside edge Or place your fabric to allow a 5 8 seam then trim seam allowance after Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling NOTE Use a blue stretch fabric needie which effectively prevents skipped stitches e Sergin
35. k Your Presser Foot The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder Each presser foot merely snaps on the foot holder which ts seldom removed If you need to remove or attach the foot holder here is what you do To Remove To Remove Turn the screw toward the back of the machine Use the large screw driver 10 To Attach Presser bar To Attach 1 Match the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar Fit the foot holder screw into the hole Tighten the screw by turning it toward you Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew Consult the Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various presser feet To Snap OF Snap on button To Snap Off the Presser Foot 1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward vou Raise the presser foot 3 Press the snap on button on the back of the foot holder The presser foot will drop off To Snap On To Snap On the Presser Foot 1 Place the presser foot so the hori zontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder 2 Lower the presser foot holder to lock the presser foot in place NOTE H you do not hear the presser foot snap in place press dow
36. le Improper threading Loose upper thread tension Pulling fabric Loose presser foot Unevenly wound bobbin Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate Pulling tabric Incorrect size needle Incorrect setting of needle Loose presser foot Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser toot betore starting seam Incorrect thread tension Using two different sizes or kinds of thread Bent or blunt needle Loose presser foot Fabric too sheer or too soft CORRECTION Choose correct size needle tor thread and tabric Rethread machine Tighten upper thread tension Do not pull fabric guide it gently Reset presser foot Rewind bobbin Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Do not pull fabric guide it gently Choose correct size needle tor thread and tabric Reset needle Reset presser foot When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser toot about 4 and hold until a few stitches are formed Reset thread tension Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind Insert new needle Reset presser toot Use underlay of tissue paper 61 PROBLEM Skipping Sutches Breaking Upper Thread Breaking Bobbin Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needie Bent or blunt needle Incorrect setting of needle Tight upper thread tension CORRECTION Choose correct size nee
37. ll increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately Practice on a scrap ot fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs Your machine has two ranges of speed a low range for slower intricate work and a high one for faster general work On the low setting the machine will sew no faster than approximately two third the speed of the high one even when the foot control is fully depressed U NOTE It is advisable not to change the speed range switch while machine is running o Set the Pressure Dial Groove Pressure control A dial Setting mark The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows 3 most sewing PAE applique and Cut Out work 7 basting sewing chiffon lace organdy and other lightweight fabrics Also for velours and knits with more stretch NOTE The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure so the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use it o Setting Spool Pins Spoo pin felt i F L t Spool pin The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread in order to feed thread to the machine To use pull up the spool pins Place the spool felt on the pins Push down for storage Normal up position High Mrs position GE High position Normal up position Presser toot lever The Presse
38. may be ordered per instructions above A Accessory storage BOX A H Appliqueing ce ees 2 26 37 B Bar tacking 26 37 ARE en duos EE 2 Base plate Ses eed aas rd 48 65 66 Basic zigzag A ee E Blind hemming 26 43 44 Blind hem stitch foot 2 A 13 26 43 65 66 Bobbin 4 16 17 63 65 66 Bobbin holder 17 63 64 Bobbin thread ME nhac 19 20 Bobbin winding 46 Bobbin winding spindle 2 16 Box stitching ek sei sei 28 87 Buttonhole A0 45 Buttonhole attachment Rae ii curds Ds 30 45 48 Buttonhole foot 4 14 30 48 65 66 Buttonhole guide plate 4 30 48 65 66 Buttonhole making eke 45 51 Buttonhole opener 4 47 65 66 Buttonhole template 4 30 48 68 66 Button sewing awe ED S 26 39 C Cabinet EEN ek EE ges od Changing needle Sea VR ENE Ee ae 15 Changing presser foot bien 1 a Cleaning hook race and feed dogs ethene 64 Cornering guide ae ee ee AE D Darn RR eg E EE RES 26 32 34 Darning plate 4 32 34 38 39 oS Decorative geometirc patterns 9 60 Decorative stretch patterns ie eee 29 59 E Elastic stretch 28 87 Embroidery e 26 38 Extension table EE 2 8 INDEX F Fabric needle thread and stitch length eharte sareren s eee cee B Face cover plate BENEKE 2 6 63 64 Fagoting e 2 56 Feed dogs is RE SR ee eee 64 Footcontrol cee A
39. n on the presser foot holder firmly until you hear the snap Presser Foot Types Zigzag Foot A Zigzag foot Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching Uses Zigzag stitching see page 35 Bar tacking see page 37 Button sewing see page 39 Rick rack stretch see page 40 Three step zigzag see page 41 Overcast stretch see page 42 Lace work see page 44 Two point shell stitching isee page 54 Smocking see page 55 Stretch patching see page 5 Fagoting see page 56 Herring bone stretch see page 56 Elastic stretch see page 57 Box stitching see page 57 Two point box stitching see page 58 Overedging stitch see page 58 Decorative stretch stitching see page 59 Straight Foot H Straight foot Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only Uses Straight stitching see page 31 Topstitching see page 32 Straight stretch see page 34 Quilting see page 33 11 o Presser Foot Types Continued Sliding Buttonhole Foot Sliding buttonhole foot Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system it is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately Uses Buttonhole making see page 45 12 E Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight Uses Zipper application see page 52 Satin Stitch Foot
40. n this machine PARTS LIST 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 65 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM SUN H the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling 66 Part No 20 6868 102403202 813404013 6551 6552 6553 6554 652806003 685502008 825873005 823803006 822804118 820817015 822801001 802422002 6864 6797 820832005 15 41669 16 802424004 7 6830 18 6889 19 652804001 20 213502003 21 213501002 22 213504005 213505006 213506007 23 1 213503004 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins Spool pin felt No 11 Stretch fabric needles BLU No 11 Single needies ORG No 14 Single needles RED No 16 Single needles PUR No 18 Single needles GRN Straight foot Zigzag foot Sliding buttonhole foot Zipper foot Satin stitch foot Blind hem stitch foot Overedge foot Quilter Needle threader Light bulb Large screw driver Smal screw driver Lint brush Buttonhole opener OH and lint brush Darning plate Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Template Round end small Template Round end large Template Keyhole Buttonhole foot These items are not furnished with the machine but
41. ne Mercerized Cotton Silk A 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Sik A RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING 2 12 stitches per inch 2 2 8 10 12 stitches per inch 2 3 8 10 stitches per inch Heavy Dury Mercer zed Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Sik A Buttonhole Twist Use as top thread only Polyester Core Cotton Wrap 50 Mercertzed Cotton 3 B stitches per inch 3m4 6 8 stitches per inch 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per inch e To Change Your Needle NOTE Raie the needle bar to its highest posi tion by turning the hand wheel toward you 1 Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning tt toward you Remove the needle by pulling it downward Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you 4 Push the needle up as far as it will go B Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from your accessory storage box 15 7 Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide it towards you 2 Set aside 3 Lift out the bobbin as shown 1 10 11 16 e Wind the Bobbin fe 1 inn Bobbin winding spindle Kc Cluteh Put your spool of thread onto spool pin with the thread winding in the direction shown Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you win
42. ntrol determines the stitch you select Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator on the stitch indicator panel The bottom row of stitches is selected when the stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position NOTE To avoid needle or fabric damage be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when selecting a stitch Stitch patterns are color coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length control ZONES e Orange Straight Zigzag and Utility Stitches a Green Geometric Decorative Stitches e Bue Built in Buttonhole Making Yellow Stretch Stitches 21 V Length GE Uf Stretch Stitch The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch and also has a stretch stitches setting The higher the number the longer the stitch D means no feed To select Stretch Stitches set this control at Stretch Stitch NOTE When you select decorative stitches green or built in buttonhole blue make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at Stretch Stitch Study the orange green yellow and blue section around this control These are recommended zones of stitch length and color coded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel 22 3 Le GRRE Smocking stretch X Rickrack stretch me ANN in stretch stitch sewing the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a ne
43. o tight Too side of fabric Topside ot fabric The top thread The bobbin thread appears on the underside of the fabric appears on the upper surtace at the tabric Tension is too loose Tension is too tight The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through bottom ot the fabric The bottom side the top of the tabric The top side of of the stitch will teel bumpy the stitch will feel bumpy For Zigzag Stitch in the correct zigzag stitch the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side See below for the correct appearance To match this appearance adjust your top tension Top tension Too Tight Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabrice Too Tight Comer ot each zigzag wil pull together on the top side of fabrics Top tension Too Loose Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose The top thread will loop through bottom side ot tabric and will be pulled almost together Just Right Top side of Fabric Bottorn side ot Fabric Just Right Minimize the amount of top thread visibie on the bottom side ot fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side Results vary with fabric thread and sewing conditions WIE SS CG3 G C3 GH G GGO GH GOH D DD OGO G G D 89 G OO net CC Red indicator The stitch selector co
44. oming from the back of the spool 1 Draw thread into thread guide using both hands 2 While holding thread near spool draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder Firmly draw thread up and through take up lever from right to left Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide B Dm P U Thread needle from front to back NOTE You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading e Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Raise presser foot lever Hold 2 3 Pull both threads under and to the needle thread loosely in left hand top thread back of the presser foot leaving 4 and rotate handwheel toward to 6 inches of thread clear you one complete turn Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 19 Setting mark Loosen Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric as shown above magnified to show detail If vou look at the stitch front and back you will notice that there are no gaps that each stitch is smooth and even When adjusting top thread tension the higher the number the tighter the top thread 20 Choose the Correct Tension The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thickness ot the tabric the number of fabric layers the type of stitch The top thread The top thread is too loose 15 to
45. on at 2 to 8 Foid back the left seam allowance as shown Turn under the right seam allow ance to form a 1 8 fold Place the zipper teeth next to the 1 8 fold and pin in place Attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot Lower the zipper foot on the top side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces the fold and the zipper tape Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the slider begins Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot DD OO H Open the zipper Lower the presser foot and stitch the rest of the seam 10 Close the zipper and turn the fabric top side up 11 12 13 Remove the zipper foot and attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot Stitch across and below the bot tom of the zipper Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot along the zipper teeth as shown Stitch through the fabric and zipper tape 14 16 17 Stop about 2 from the top of the zipper 15 Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot Remove the basting stitches and open the zipper Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam Make sure the fold is even 53 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 Top thread tension contro 4 rop Stitch length contro orange zone 2 1 GE ed 3 iif N o 4 Stretch Stitch F Satin stiteh foot
46. plates Pins Base plate Buttonhole foot 48 Buttonhole Style and Size Round End Keyhole Buttonhole Buttonhole HEN Template 213504005 213505006 213506007 3 8 1 2 45 16 1 1 16 7 8 1 1 16 Sizes 5 8 13 16 1 4 4 1 1 2 1 1 4 1 3 8 NOTE Illustrations of buttonhole on template show actual length of buttonhole to be sewn You will find the most suitable buttonhole length easily by matching the button with the proper illustration on the template Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 2 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Pins A Bobbin thread d Base plate Stitch length Hook control 4 EER a Stretch Stitch Rectangular hole 1 a Remove the extension table b Raise the needle to its highest position c Remove the foot holder d Pull bobbin thread out about 3 straight back toward rear of machine Buttonhole toot e Insert hook of base plate into rectangular hole of needle plate Heloful Hints f Pull lever back to align the hook with the rectangular hole You can obtain best results to use o Snap base plate down to fit two pins A at the back of base plate into 60 80 light weight threads as two round holes B on needle plate bobbin thread Release lever NOTE it is advisable to use a blue stretch fabric needle when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics Buttonhole guide plate s uf b Template
47. r Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot You can raise it about 1 4 higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot e Thread Cutter Thread cutter You don t need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing Just use the handy thread cutter The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam The lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward you Sewing accessories are conveniently located inthe box e Free Arm Sewing the Removable Extension Table To remove To Remove the Extension Table for free arm sewing 1 Grip the table with your index finger and thumb as shown 2 Pull gently toward you The extension table will snap out To Attach Extensian table To Attach the Extension Table for flat bed sewing 1 Fit the tabs into the slot as shown 2 With your thumb and index finger gently snap in Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing This feature makes sewing easy for Bar tacking to reinforce pockets plackets and waistlines on ready made or home made garments to avoid fabric bunching around the needle E Stitching sleeves watstbands pant legs Darning socks or mending knees elbows Sewing buttons on sleeves waistbands or any circular garment area or areas of wear in children s clothes etc o Chec
48. r lightweight tabrics Red 14 for medium or medium heavy weight tabrics Purple 16 for medium heavy weight and decorative topstitching on these fabrics This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread Green 18 tor heavy weight fabrics and decorative top stitching on these tabrics e Check Your Needle 1 Look tor barbed or blunt point 2 A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits fine silks and silk like fabrics Always buy a good quality thread It should resist tangling and be strong smooth and consistent in thickness FABRIC Lightweight Batiste Dimity Chiffon Silks Fine Lace Organza Crepe Taffeta Voile Organdy e Fabric Needie Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR 11 ORANGE Medium Weight Cotton Cotton Blends Percale Gingham Shantung Pique Seersucker Satin Knits Vinyi Surtings Linen Wool Crepe Leather Medium Heavy Weight Corduroy Denim Wool Saiicloth Wool Flannel Gabardine Veivets Leather Heavy Weight Coatings Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Twils Canvas Decorative top stitching on all types of fabric Stretch Fabric Polyester Double Knits Nylon Tricot Jersey Stretch Terry Spandex Cire Tricot 14 RED or 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN 11 BLUE STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE THREAD SIZE Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Fi
49. range switch 2 6 Spool pin feft ers see see 7 85 66 Spool pihs e A Stitch length control H 22 Stitch selector A 2i Stitch width control H 2324 Straight stitching 28 31733 Straight stitch foot 4 11 26 31 34 65 66 Straight stretch stitching 26 34 Stretch patching 2 0 0 2 cee 28 55 Stretch stitch adjuster 3 22 T Take upleVer ss Eg ses Es ese 2 18 Thread cutter E ar K R ce KR An d Thread guide aourenn cacas r 18 Three step Zigzag e paves ca 6 pal Topstitching 26 32 Top thread EE EE Top thread tension znae 2027 Top thread tension control 2 20 21 Turning a square Gomer 0 6 ce ee 31 Two point box stitching 29 58 Two point shell stitching 28 54 Z Zigzag foot osare 11 26 29 33 35 37 39 42 44 4 55 B5 66 Zigzag stitching 26 35 40 Zigzag overcasting ces 40 Zipper application 26 52 63 Zipper foot 4 42 26 52 53 65 66 68 SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE 1 You ll find spool pins on the top cover Pull up the spool pins and place the spool pin felt on the pins Spool pin felt 4 Plug foot control into machine receptacle Then connect cord into any 110 120 volt A C wall outlet ES Your Kenmore sewing machine has oo pi been thoroughly oiled at the factory Be sure to wipe off the needle plate area bed plate and shuttle carefully before sewing a garment It
50. s best you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times The bobbin area can attract dust and lint Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught cover plate Follow these directions 4 Brush or vacuum the dust and lint 6 Slide on the bobbin cover plate by 1 Turn off the power or unplug the out of the bobbin holder pushing it into the grooves machine 5 Replace the bobbin 2 Remove the bobbin cover plate by firmly pulling it toward you 3 Remove the bobbin 63 1 Unplug the machine and remove B the presser foot and needle 2 Remove the bobbin face cover plate 3 Remove the screw on the left side of the needle with the large screw driver A Remove the needle plate 6 Use the lint brush to clean the 7 feed dogs hook race and bobbin holder Also use a soft dry cloth 64 Red marks Take out the bobbin Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it GZ es Ni eS id RE Line up the red marks and place the bobbin holder so the knob fits next to the stopper in the hook race as shown above Open face cover plate and oi points as shown below at least once a year On or two drops of oil is sufficient Remove excess oil otherwise it may stain fabrics in case machine is not used for an extended time oi it before sewing Use good quality sewing machine oil No other oiling is required Above points are only area which require oiling o
51. t a slow speed Peg ed for knits and stretch fabrics 5 Move the fabric back and forth slowly until ou have covered the darning area l y Saros topstitching on all fabrics B Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother layer of stitching over the first layer NOTE If your fabric is thin or badly damaged use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it 7 When you finish darning remove the darning plate and replace foot hoider and foot This stitch can also be used for Stretch stitching was developed to be used on stretch fabrics and knits It can be used on other fabrics as well it works weil on curved seams and on any garments that will receive a great deal of strain ie children s clothes The stretch stitch does not actually stretch as it is being sewn but is stitched in a forward and back motion sometimes called a reverse action stitch so that it will give when the fabric stretches instead of breaking Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 10 6 2 3 Top thread tension contro 3 te 8 Stitch length control orange zone LEE ly 4 a Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot The Stitch and its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons buttonholes hem ming overcasting mending and darn ma It can also be us
52. tching The stitch will prevent raveling Sat the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 2 A Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position 1 GE sd 3 dy d p 4 a Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments 1 Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front center back and side seams 2 Place the middie of the elastic under the center of the presser toot and stitch into place making sure the elastic is evenly distri buted Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 8 D ES Ca Stitch length control orange zone 2 Top thread tension control 3 10 8 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot AE RS N Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them 57 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 2 A Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 3 4 Tap thread tension control 3 to 8 Top thread tension Stitch length control 3 to 8 Stitch length contro 1 to 2 T g PIENTI SU comtral 1 to 3 2 Z l S 2 EE SAQA This stitch is useful for elastic fabrics AE 3 This stitch can be used for a over Mi A to join them together see page 57 My A edging stitch 0 4 n D Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot A Zigzag toot 58
53. uide The seam guides on the needle plate are engraved to help you measure seam width The lines are 1 8 apart with the 5 8 and 7 8 lines marked Turn a Square Corner Cornering To turn a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge 1 Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning hand wheel toward you when the fabric edge facing you fines up with the cornering guide as shown 2 Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the edge with the 5 8 seam guide 3 Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction en Sometimes when you sew you want te contro the fabric yourself The Darning Piate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric To Put on the Darning Plate NOTE The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the needle plate in the darning plate these holes are slightly to the right of center 1 Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom 2 Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes at the 5 8 mark The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes Use the darning plate in the following ways Darning see page 34 Button Sewing see page 39 32 Topstitching Set the Machine Stitch width contro 0 or CSD 2 3 D Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control orange zone d A EE D 0 4 a Stretch Stitch H Straight foot The Stitch and its Uses Topstit
54. utral position between H and JI or r position When sewing some fabrics you may need to adjust this control to balance the stitches for appearance sake If design seems open like the illustrations to the left adjust the control slightly toward until design looks like the center design if the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations turn the control toward until stitching is as you desire The stitch width control regulates the width of the stitch you select The higher the number the wider the stitch o Three Needle Position The stitch width control also regulates the needle positions for straight stitching ED se LEFT needle position CED CENTER needle position CO RIGHT needie position First select straight stitch by turning the stitch selector control then select the desired needle position by turning the stitch width control You can easily adjust your needle from left to right without moving your fabric from under the presser foot NOTE Setting the stitch width control at D position also gives you center needle position 23 Left Needle Position Set the dial at left needle position when sewing the edge of the fabric 24 Right Needle Position Set the dial at Right needle position for top stitching when sewing on collar of jacket etc Reverse NN To reverse stitch hold down this con trol durin
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