Sears 385. 17928 Sewing Machine User Manual
Contents
1. 26 36 48 Zigzag OVercastinQ lt lt lt oo 41 Zipper application 26 34 35 Zipper foot 5 13 26 34735 6667 69 As ds i es ds ds es eT me ee a Ae Re i SIS SIS STS ee TS LS SE ee STS WARRANTY FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine including electronic components motor wiring switch and speed control FULL 90 DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS For 90 days from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE CENTER DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO D 817 WA Hoffman Estates IL 60179 a a aki et Re i Oe tt Oe Oe Oe Oe Ot Oe Oe Oy Ae Mp in Mp lit Oe et Mi Apo Nat Ot O2. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric ist short of the outside edge just st LO ine outside eage Or place your fabric to allow a 5 8 seam then trim seam allowance after Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling NOTE Use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches Smocking Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 pea S5 ce Z LIJ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 PE amp 3 8 side of tabric Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position 2 3 SE 3 WIN o 4 e Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot With the stitch length at 4 sew straight stitching lines 3 8 across the area to be smocked Knot the threads along one edge Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly Secure the threads at the other end Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches Pull out the gathering stitches NOTE Loosen the top thread tension to make gathering easier apart Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 124 NG Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position WA lf S Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat It is ideal for 1 4 seams on knits o
3. Hand Wheel Push Pull Clutch Stitch Selector Stretch Stitch Adjuster Free Arm Drop Feed Lever Light and Power Switch Nomenctature Plate Plug Connector Presser Foot Needle Clamp Thumb Screw Presser Foot Snap on Button Foot Control Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush Small spool holder Large screw driver Small screw driver Additional spool pin Spool pin feit ES Large spool holder P Zipper foot Straight Siiding Satin stitch stitch foot buttonhole foot foot Set Up the Machine e Plugin the Machine and Switch on the Power Machine plug NOTE Before inserting the plug into your machine be sure the power switch OFF Volt AC outlet outlet as shown It will only fit one way 3 Insert the power supply plug into the outlet is Check your outlet to be sure itis a 110 to 120 Insert the machine plug into the three prong AR Sewing light Light and power switch ES 4 Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light SAFETY FEATURE Your machine will not operate unless the light power switch is turned on If you are interrupted or stop sewing turn off the light power switch to prevent injury to children e Foot Control Use Foot control The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew To in
4. e i 1 2 Stitch length 3 L L L L f Here s How Once your machine is set up to stitch you may want to experiment on a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use Too tighta satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics 37 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to5 poles EE amp Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 N Top thread tension control 2 to 6 LES E y o Stretch Siitch F Satin stitch toot 5 kas dial 38 Baste or fuse with iron on fabric joiner applique pieces on the fabric Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the annlique 1e appiique When sewing corners lower the needle down into the fabric Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left e Bar Tacking Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Pas pra A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 2 to 5 aha WEE Z Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 SS My N Stretch Sieh This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners or pockets and straps on lingerie Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches Embroidery E e Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 to 5 213 1 a EE Top thread tension Stitch length control control 2 to 6 Any number not necessary
5. finishing seams 44 Seam Finishing Overcasting Mending Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides the right hand side of the presser foot Guide the work so sthe right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabirc e Shell Stitching e Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 s23 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 sa aba ES L Top thread tension Top thread tension control 4 to9 Stitch length control 3 to 8 Stitch length contro red 7 control red zone Here s How zone A 2 2 A 2 Eo Z N 1 For best effect WA Ing Use Hi stitch to join heavy weight li A li interlining N set the stitch length as you o 4 desire o 4 Overlap two raw edges together and ES you may need to tighten the use this stitch to join them AA top thread tension slightly Stretch Stitch allow the needle to just s Stretch Stitch clear the folded edge of the F Satin stitch k e foot fabric when it zigzags A Zigzag foot 2 If you sew rows of shell stitches The Stitch and Its Uses space the rows 5 8 apart The Shell Stitch is formed by sewinga You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or blind hem over folded fabric Several soft silky wovens in any direction rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks Shel
6. Fagoting or asa 402046 aed 28 46 Feed dogs 5 0 4 fhe LY ce eA 32 65 Footcontrol 0 0005 4 6 Free arm sewing 9 10 H Hand wheel o o o o o o o ooo 4 20 Herring bone stretch 29 52 HOOK FACE os as tes Geo Ba eek 65 Horizontal spool pin 16 L Lace Works NAG ed we hog gee ng aia 43 Large screw driver 5 6667 Light and power switch 4 6 Light bulb 64 66 6 Lintbrush 5 64 67 M Monogramming 26 36 N Needle 14 15 66 67 Needle clamp 0 4 15 Needle plate 3 18 Needle thread and fabric chart 15 Needle threading 19 20 o Oilin coi ely ated PONG 65 Overcasting stitch 41 Overcast stretch 27 50 Overedging stitch 29 47 P Parts listes ra da oh Bist OR ewes 66 67 Performance problems 6263 Plugconnector co 4 6 Portable case o oo oo o 3 Power switch 0 000 4 6 Practical stitch chart 26 30 Pressure control dial 7 Presser foot 4 1113 Presser foot lever 4 8 Push pull clutch 4 17 R Reverse stitch control 3 25 31 Rick rack stretch stitching 26 49 S Satin stitch foot ooooooo ee ere 5 13 27 30 37
7. Ka A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 3 to 5 2l3_ Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position YN ZEN N Stretch Stitch aer A The Stitch and Its Uses Use as hemming stitch for blankets tableclothes and draperies l Place the fabric top side up and sew 3 8 from the edge Here s How e Decorative Stretch Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control Top thread tension 3to5 control 2 to 6 als 1 4 1s Stitch length control brown stretch stitch naaiti position 2 AEN Le Mi A Zigzag foot 4 LI Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Decorative stretch patterns can be used for adding creative and personalised touch to the items you sew for your home and family You can decorate children s clothes women s blouses curtains etc 53 e Learning to Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes You may use the built in system or you may use the optional snap in automatic buttonhols attachment system Choose the buttonhole style Built in bottonholes rectangular Choose this style for waistband cuffs belt slots or where you will need only one or two buttons Round end buttonholes Template No 213504005 213505006 Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses blouses vests ja
8. accessory storage box lifts open toward you Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box To remove Free Arm Sewing the Removable Extension Table Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing This feature makes sewing easy for To Remove the Extension Table for free arm sewing 1 Grip the table with your index finger and thumb as shown 2 Pullit gently toward you The extension table will snap out Pi 3 y Bar tacking to reinforce pockets plackets To Attach and waistlines on ready made or home Extension table Accessory storage box made garments to avoid fabric bunching around the needle To Attach the Extension Table for flat bed sewing 1 2 Fit the tabs into the slot as shown With your thumb and index finger gently snap in Set Up the Machine Continued Waa pH Stitching sleeves waistbands pants legs Darnin or any circular garment area or areas of wear in children s clothes 10 Know What the Presser Feet Will Do e Check the Presser Foot The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder Each presser foot merely snaps on the foot holder which is seldom removed If you need to remove or attach the foot holder
9. evenly along this edge to produce an even row of topstitching 5 8 from the edge 33 e Sewina Zipper Fabric Preparation Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening Use the reverse to lock the stitchac stitenes Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at 4 and top thread tension at 3 End of opening Set the Machine Stitch width control O 12134 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 2 ZENS MTN 4 e A Stretch Stitch E Zipper foot To attach the zipper foot To sew on the left side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot To sew on the right side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot 1 81 Zipper teeth To Sew 1 a Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6 Fold back the left seam allowance as shown Turn under the right seam allow ance to form a 1 8 fold Place the zipper teeth next to the 1 8 fold and pin in place Attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot Lower the zipper foot on the top side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needie pierces the foid and the zipper tape Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the slider begins Lower the needle to hold the fabr
10. plug not the cord Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle Always use the proper needle plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break Do not use bent needles Do not pull or push fabric while stitching lt may deflect the needle causing it to break Switch the sewing machine off 0 when making any adjustment in the needle area such as threading needle changing needle threading bobbin or changing presser foot and the like Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog Another option buy a Carrying Case then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored any where Take up Lever Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Needle Plate Hook Cover Plate Thread Spool Pin Bobbin Winding Spindle Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Guide Message Window N Reverse Stitch Control Base Extension Table Accessory storage box Hook Cover Plate Release Button Locate and Identify the Parts Continued Carrying Handie Arm Cover Plate
11. relamping Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water Unplug immediately Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid WAR N N G To reduce the risk of burns fire electric shock or injury to persons Do not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properly if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment 10 11 12 _ E 15 Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth Never drop or insert any object into any opening Do not use outdoors Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered To disconnect turn all controls to the off O position then remove plug from outlet Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the
12. to adjust PN dl mo Stretch Stitch No presser foot Drop feed lever Here s How 1 Drop the feed dogs see page 32 N Remove foot holder see page 11 3 Adjust the stitch width as desired see page 24 4 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk 5 Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops and place under the needie 6 Lower the presser foot lever to engaged the top thread tension 7 Holding the top thread in your left hand rotate the hand wheel toward you one complete turn Pull the top thread to draw the bobbin thread through to the surface of the fabric 8 Using a medium speed stitch along the marked outline guiding the fabric carefully by hand 9 When finished embrodiering raise the feed dogs see page 32 e Sewa Button Set the Machine Stitch width control Must be adjusted 213 S PRT a Top thread tension control 2 to 6 40 A Stitch length control Any number not necessary to adjust 2 1 3 if N NG EGS Zigzag foot 4 NA Stretch Stitch Drop feed lever Drop the feed dogs see page 32 1 Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser foot Adjust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole Lower the foot to hold the button in place Turn the hand whee by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the b
13. 3 2 E H ae Eng This stitch is useful to join elastic N This stitch can be used as a seam finish li fabrics M to prevent fraging 4 o 4 Bb TUN ng a i Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot A Zigzag foot 47 e Decorate with Geometric Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3to 5 t J Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control green N Zone 1 LE 2 SS 3 M N F nad SS foot Stretch Stitch The Stitches and Their Uses These stitches are purely decorative You can sew one row or several or vary the stitch width and length for special effects Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see what special effects are possible Here s How 1 Adjust the stitch width and length as you desire 2 Practice the stitch on a scrap of fabric 3 Mark the lines for decoration on the fabric using a washable fabric marker 4 Lower the needle at the starting point 5 Lower the presser foot 6 Gently guide the fabric along the maked line Stretch Stitches e Straight Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width control O Top thread tension control 2 to6 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position 4 2 H Straight foot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch is the stretch varia tion of the straight stitch especially developed for knits and stretch fabrics Stretch stit
14. 39 45 66 67 Satin stitching 29 37 Seam guides oo 31 Serging ooo 27 51 Serging or pine leaf stretch 27 51 Sewinglight oooooo 6 Shell stitching 27 45 Sliding buttonhoie foot a Bip Pe a 5 13 30 55 56 66 67 Small screw driver 5 5667 SMOCKING ia NAG ae oe 27 50 Snap on button 000 4 11 Spool pinfelt 5 66 67 Spool Pie steve ei a acd ng ke we Wie ot ew bs 3 Stitch length control 3 24 Stitch selector 4 23 Stitch width control 3 24 Straight stitching 26 31 35 Straight stitch foot 2 0 0 0 0 008 de a Tanaga NAG 5 12 26 31 33 49 66 67 Straight stretch stitching 26 49 Stretch patching 28 52 Stretch stitch adjuster 4 24 T Take up lever o o oo o ooo ooo 3 19 Thread CUtter o ooo ao 3 19 Thread guide 3 4 19 Three step zigzag 27 44 Topstitching o gt 26 33 Twin needle stitches 61 Top thread 0a 19 22 Top thread tension 21 22 Top thread tension control 3 21 22 Turning a square corner 31 Two pointbox stitching 29 47 Two poini shell stitching 28 46 Z Zigzag foot 0 eee ee te fed ORS 12 26 30 38 40 47 49 53 66 67 Zigzag stitching
15. 9 Stitch BUTTONHOLE Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach Sliding Check buttonhole Stitch Length Buttonholes also corded buttonholes Refer to Page Buttonhole Check attachment Chart Round end buttonholes and keyhole buttonholes 57 TWIN NEEDLE STITCHES Twin Needle Brown Stretch Stitch Position or Use for sewing parallel rows of straight or decorative stitches adding an exquisite touch to table linen and clothing A 61 SATIN STITCH 30 Use for applique work also as a decorative finish for placemats blankets collars cuffs and pockets 37 Straight Stitches e Straight Stitch f Set the Machine Stitch width control O 213 aN Top thread tension 4 control 2 to 6 Stitch length control red 5 zone i 2 YE SN gt 3 a M N 4 A Zigzag foot SLL Stretch Stitch ES H Straight foot NOTE Best sewing results are obtained with the straight stitch foot but the zigzag foot will also provide acceptable results Before sewing with the straight stitch foot always set the stitch width control to O to avoid breaking the needle 1 Raise the presser foot 2 Raise the needle to its highest position 3 Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate 5 8 is most co
16. AIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM SON 3 if the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handing Ref No Ref No ol Description 1 102869107 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins 2 102403202 Spool pin felt 3 813404013 No 11 Stretch fabric needles BLU 647814020 No 11 Single needles ORG 647814031 No 14 Single needles RED 647814042 i No 16 Singie needies PUR 647814053 No 18 Single needles GRN 4 652806015 Straight foot 5 685502019 Zigzag foot 6 825813005 Sliding buttonhole foot 7 823803006 Zipper foot 8 822804118 Satin stitch foot 9 6864 Needle threader 10 000009803 Light bulb 11 820832005 Large screw driver 12 647803004 Small screw driver 13 802424004 Lint brush 14 647808009 Buttonhole opener 15 6889 Oil and lint brush set 16 822020503 Large spool hoider 17 822019509 Small spool holder 18 625031500 Additional spool pin 19 826815000 Twin needle 20 213702016 Buttonhole attachments 21 200002008 Piping foot 22 200003009 Gathering foot 23 200005001 Pin Tucking foot 24 200013105 Hemmer foot 25 200027102 Binder foot 26 200030108 1 4 Seam foot 27 214872000 Walking foot 28 654805008 Embroidery foot 29 941620000 Ruffler These items are not furnished with the machine but may be ordered per
17. OWNER S MANUAL il Kenmore MODEL 385 17928 SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Dear Customer You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine Before using your new Kenmore machine t and care for your machine Specific instructions are given on threading tension adjustments cleaning oiling etc This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate as identified on Page 4 of this booklet Model No 385 Serial No Retain these numbers for future reference THIS MODEL ISA CENTER NEEDLE LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use Read all instruction before using this sewing machine DAN G E R To reduce the risk of electric shock 1 An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning Always unplug before
18. ching can be used on other fabrics as well It works well on curved seams and on any garments that will receive a great deal of strain ex children s clothes The stretch stitch does not actually stretch as it is being sewn but is stitched in a forward and back motion sometimes called a reverse action stitch so that it will give when the fabric stretches instead of breaking This stitch can also be used for topstitching on all fabrics e Rick Rack Stretch Set the Machine be Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 2 to 5 ala JA Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position ZEN ix 2 NAI Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well 49 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 14240 Top thread tension contro 2 to 6 Stitch tength control brown stretch stitch position sl A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish The seam is formed and finished in one operation It can be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch 50 Here s How Place the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle as shown
19. ckets or coats Keyhole buttonholes Template No 213506007 Choose this style for tailored vests jackets coats or any time you need more room for button shank Note See page 67 for ordering information of optional Buttonhole Attachment 54 rca E cer posed Tips on buttonholing Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used Tear paper away after stitching if it is used For heavier weight fabrics loosen your top thread tension slightly e Built in System Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 N kat Stitch length control Blue zone f3 ZEN MEN La En i Top thread tension control 2 to6 Ee Stretch Stitch S mn Sliding buttonhoie foot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial 1 For less density turn the dial toward 1 2 For more density turn the dial toward O NOTE Always make a practice but tonhole on a scrap fabric you plan to use to find the more suitable stretch length a Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Change to t
20. crease speed gently press down with the ball of your foot NOTE The foot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs e Set the Pressure Dial a Groove Pressure control Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows Big ite amp most sewing ee applique and Cut Out work Dios sewing chiffon lace organdy and other lightweight fabrics Also for velours and knits with more stretch Doris manual darning and embroidery NOTE The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure so the machine is ready for most norma sewing the next time you use it Set Up the Machine Continued e Adjust the Presser Foot Lever Normal up 3 position High Ra position High position Normal up pd position Presser foot lever The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot You can raise it about 1 4 higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot e Thread Cutter Thread ciitter Cutter You don t need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing Just use the handy thread cutter e Accessory Storage Box The lid of the
21. e Ta aT TT aT a Cai Ca Ce BT ie skin ii Sg TS SL ai Ts ai es Ale Siga ln An SAU An Skin Sin SAL SAL Ak Sb SAL dka SALO SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 4 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM if the parts you need are not stocked localiy your order wili be eiectronicaliy transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chicago IL60684 U S A 5 385 Printed in Taiwan Part No 654800014 52
22. e It can be autility stitch for sewing buttons buttonholes hem ming overcasting mending and darn ing It can also be used to decorate with trims appliques and cut out work or as a decorative stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses 36 e Monogramming 3 Es Top thread tension control 2 to 6 F Satin stitch foot Set the Machine WEN Stitch width control 5 7 H FR j y Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 2 Z gt 3 Here s How Set the same as satin stitch 4 2 Back the fabric with paper or interfacing mr j Stretch Stitch 3 Draw the letters on the fabric with tailor s chaik 4 Satin stitch adjusting the stitch width as necessary to form each pattern 5 If using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing Naan MAGO pama maria wb PE OS ae a e Satin Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 213 1 ng DEN 2 S Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 2 AR 3 WEN 4 r ae E Stretch Stitch F Satin stitch foot Pressure dial 1 or 2 The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge for ex ample blankets linens tablecloths and napkins The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique Zigzag width
23. e Using Buttonhole Attachment NOTE The buttonhole attachment is an optional item Buttonhole Attachment System For more varied and accurate buttonholes you will enjoy using the button hole attachment and templates Know the parts and carefully read how to set up your machine properly You will need these items for the buttonhoie attachement system Guide slot Measurement marking Buttonhole guide plate Guide block Buttonhole templates Base plate Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Style and Size Round End Keyhole Buttonhole Buttonhole Template 213504005 213505006 213506007 3 8 1 2 15 167 1 1 16 7 87 1 1 16 Sizes 5 8 13 16 1 1 4 1 1 2 1 1 4 1 3 8 NOTE Illustrations of buttonhole on template show actual length of buttonhole to be sewn You will find the most suitable buttonhole length easily by matching the button with the proper illustration on the template 57 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 4 Buttonhole foot Helpful Hints Best results are obtained by using 60 80 light weight threads as bobbin thread NOTE It is advisable to use a blue stretch fabric needle when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics You can obtain buttonholes with a wider cutting space by setting the stitch width control at 1 5 instead of 2 58 Optional Item Pins A Le
24. e to be stitched as shown leaving 1 4 of the finished hem edge showing Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that narrow zigzag stitches will be sewn on extended edge The wide zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment After hemming press both sides of the finished hem The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches e Lace Work Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 1 2 5 VEE IN 3 a M N a Stretch Stitch Lace adds a fanciful feminine touch to blouses and lingerie Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace A Zigzag foot Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 5 8 Place lace underneath and top stitch using blind hem stitch Trim excess fabric close to stitching 43 Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 1 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 Ll if o 4 A w A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch You may use the three step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch it has more strength elasticity and is flatter than a regular zigzag The three step zigzag stitch is especial ly useful for mending sewing patches smoothly and securely repairing straight tears
25. essory storage box 15 Prepare the Bobbin e To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine a Q Remove the cover plate by O Take out the bobbin sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right 16 e Horizontal Spool Pin Ordinary Spool Small Spool Tilt up the spool pin Place the spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as shown Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool e The small spool holder is used with narrow or small thread spools e Additional Spool Pin ie ai The additional spool pin is used to wind extra bobbins without unthreading the machine To use insert the additional spool pin in the hole Place the felt and the spool on the pin e Bobbin Winding Horizontal Spool Pin Additional Spool Pin O Puli the clutch knob away from the machine to disengage clutch 2 Draw the thread from the spool Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide 4 Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin threading from the inside to the outside Put the bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle and push it to the right With the free end of the thread held in your hand depress the foot control Stop the machine when it has made a few turns and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin Depress the foot control again When the bobbin is
26. front to back NOTE Cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading 19 Prepare the Top Thread Continued e Pick Up the Bobbin Thread 1 Raise presser foot lever Hold 2 needie thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn 20 Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top thread 3 Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear Setting mark Loosen Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric as shown above magnified to show detail If you look at the stitch front and back you will notice that there are no gaps that each stitch is smooth and even When adjusting top thread tension the higher the number the tighter the top thread Tension is too loose Choose the Correct Tension The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thickness of the fabric the number of fabric layers the type of stitch The top thread The top thread is too loose is too tight Top side Ke 7 de of fabric Op stg O a a aae gt SS f fab IAN A Ng a eS hi ee PT eg we ae The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric fabric The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the Tension is too tight The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come throu
27. fully wound it will stop automatically Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left and cut the thread as shown Push in the clutch knob to engage clutch The machine will not sew until the clutch knob is pushed in 17 e insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder 1 Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2 Pull about 4 inches of thread 3 Then pull the thread clockwise 4 Pull out about 15 cm 6 of thread holder so that the thread feeds toward you through the tension toward the back of the machine counter clockwise left slot A through the slot F and attach the hook cover plate 18 e Thread the Needle N Raise the take up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Raise the presser foot lever Place the spool on the spool pin as shown with thread coming from the back of the spool 1 Draw thread into thread guide using both hands 2 While holding thread near spool draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder The numbered steps above follow the numbers Firmly draw thread up and through take up lever from right to left on the illustrations Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide NA Thread needle from
28. gh bottom of the fabric The bottom side the top of the fabric The top side of of the stitch will feel bumpy the stitch will feel bumpy 21 For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side See below for the correct appearance To match this appearance adjust the top tension Top tension Too Tight Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight Corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics 22 Top tension Too Loose Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose The top thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together Just Right Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Just Right Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side Results vary with fabric thread and sewing conditions Stitch Selector r Guide message window UCU 3338332333935 aaa coocoo0oacacadgaaaceaada ENN E Red indicator The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator on the stitch indicator panel The bottom row of stitches i
29. h Twin Needle Stitching Set the Machine for any of these stitch RURAN OOBE y Stitch width Top thread tension control i control 3 to 7 maximum i fe YU a t JA 0 E 0 O NG Nag 1 t li ty i 1 4 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch 1 _ position or green zone A Zigzag foot 2 CA Ng Turn off the power switch see page 6 insert the additional spool pin in the hole see page 16 Place the felt and the spool on the additional spool pin see page 16 Prepare the top thread for additional spool pin see page 19 Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide as illustration A Change the needle to twin needle see page 15 Thread needles from front to back NOTE When changing the direction of sewing turn the hand wheel so needles are in the up position When sewing with twin needle do not use a stitch width which goes past the twin needle mark ff Twin needle is an optional item for al models F Satin stitch foot Ku ad Twin needle IHustration A 61 Irregular Stitches PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle Improper threading Loose upper thread tension Pulling fabric Loose presser foot Unevenly wound bobbin Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate CORRECTION Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Rethread machine Tighten upper
30. he sliding buttonhole foot c Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole mark ing running toward you Coarse stitches for heavy fabrics Q Fine AEN stitches A 3 nu for light fabrics Stretch Stitch 2 a Move the slider A toward you so that the top mark C on the slider meets the start mark B b Line up the markings on the foot with the top mark on your garment c Lower the presser foot NOTE The markings on the slider are engraved in centimeters Set the stitch selector at Sew forward until you reach the front marking of your button hole Stop sewing at the left stitch 55 4 a Set the stitch selector at i b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the right stitch NOTE When sewing at the edge of fabric set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrared and sew in reverse 1 0 17 56 Set the stitch selector at I p Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole Stop sewing at th 6 Set the stitch selector at i 3 Sew 4 to 6 stitches Stop sewing at the left stitch Raise the presser foot and draw the fabric away from you Cut both the needie and bobbin threads leaving about 10cm 47 thread ends Draw the needle thread to wrong side of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread Then knot the threads Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener in your accessory storage box
31. here is what you do To Remove To Attach Presser bar Foot holder screw w To Remove To Attach Turn the screw toward the back of 1 Match the hole in the foot the machine Use the large screw holder with the threaded hole in driver the presser bar 2 Fit the foot holder screw into the hole 3 Tighten the screw by turning it toward you e Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew Consult the Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various presser feet To Snap Off Snap on button TAN wa 4 To Snap Off the Presser Foot 1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you 2 Raise the presser foot Press the snap on button on the back of the foot holder The presser foot will drop off 11 Know What the Presser e Change the Presser Foot Continued To Snap On To Snap On the Presser Foot 1 Place the presser foot so the hori zontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder 2 Lower the presser foot hoider to lock the presser foot in place NOTE If you do not hear the presser foot snap in place press down on the presser foot holder firmly until you hear the snap 12 et Will Do Continued e Presser Foot Types Zigzag Foot A Zigzag foot Use this foot for both straig
32. ht and zigzag stitcing Uses Zigzag stitching see page 36 Bar tacking see page 38 Button sewing see page 40 Overcast stitch see page 41 Lace work see page 43 Three step zigzag see page 44 Box stitching see page 45 Two point shell stitching see page 46 Fagoting see page 46 Two point box stitch see page 47 Overedging stitch see page 47 Rick rack stretch see page 49 Smocking see page 50 Elastic stretch see page 51 Stretch patching see page 52 Herring bone stretch see page 52 Straight Foot H Straight foot Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only Uses Straight stitching see page 31 Topstitching see page 33 Straight stretch see page 49 e Presser Foot Types Continued Sliding Buttonhole Foot Sliding buttonhole foot Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately Uses Buttonhole making see page 55 Zipper Foot E Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight Uses Zipper application see page 34 Satin Stitch Foot F Satin stitch foot Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and outlining applique Uses Darning see page 32 Monogramming see page 36 Satin stitch see page 37 Applique see page 38 She
33. ic and raise the presser foot Top side oa of fabric a Top side of fabric ca 10 Close the zipper and turn the 11 fabric top side up Open the zipper Lower the presser foot and stitch the rest of the seam 12 13 To side of fabric Remove the zipper foot and attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot Stitch across and below the bot tom of the zipper Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot along the zipper teeth as shown f Stitch through the fabric and zipper tape 14 15 16 17 Top side of fabric Stop about 2 from the top of the zipper Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot Remove the basting stitches and open the zipper Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam Make sure the fold is even 35 e Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 to 5 213 1 4 I gt gle pa Top thread tension Stitch length control 3 to 8 control red Zone EE Ng Here s How li There are many ways to sew a zigzag 0 4 stitch Consult the specific variations for Ni detailed directions Stretch Stitch Satin Stitch page 37 Applique Work page 38 Bar Tacking page 38 Monogramming page 36 Embroidery page 39 Button Sewing page 40 The zigzag stitch is one of the most Overcasting page 41 common and most versatile stitches on your machin
34. instructions above 67 A Accessory storage box 3 9 Additional spool pin 16 Appliqueing 00 26 38 B Bar tacking 220 26 38 Bas ere iin od da Sew nalan es 3 Base plate Sik ee APA 67 Basic zigzag 26 36 Blind hemming 26 42 Bobbin 5 16718 64 6667 Bobbin holder 18 64 65 Bobbin thread 20 21 Bobbin winding KALA 16 17 Bobbin winding spindle 3 16 17 Box stitching 28 45 Buttonhole la 30 54 56 Buttonhole attachment 54 57 60 66767 Buttonhole foot 57 60 66 67 Buttonhole guide plate 57 60 67 Buttonhole making 5460 Buttonhole opener 5 56 6667 Buttonhole template 57 60 67 _ Button sewing aa 26 40 c Cabineki eee ee eee tne whee KANG 3 Changing needle 15 Changing presser foot 11 12 Cleaning hook race and feed dogs 65 Cornering guide 31 39 D Darning a 26 32 Decorative geometric patterns 29 48 Drop feed lever 0 32 E Elastic stretch 28 51 Embroidery 0 26 39 Extension table 3 9 68 INDEX F Fabric needle thread and stitch length chart 00 15 Face cover plate 3 7 64 65
35. ized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per inch Medium Heavy Weight Corduroy Denim Wool Sailcloth Wool Flannel Gabardine Velvets Leather 14 RED or 16 PURPLE 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A 2 3 8 10 stitches per inch Heavy Weight Coatings Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Twills Canvas 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silkk A 3 8 stitches per inch Decorative top stitching on all types of fabric 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN Buttonhole Twist Use as top thread only 3 4 6 8 stitches per inch Stretch Fabric Polyester Double Knits Nylon Tricot Jersey Stretch Terry Spandex Cire Tricot 11 BLUE STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE Polyester Core Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per inch e To Change the Needle Needle clamp screw VA a a eee es Ag EN ba bil Flat side away from you C NOTE Raise the needle bar to its highest posi tion by turning the hand wheel toward you 1 Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you 2 Remove the needle by pulling it downward 3 Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you 4 Push the needle up as far as it will go Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from your acc
36. l stitching can be used to finish hems sleeve and neck openings Shell tucking can be used to create scalloped tucks on blouses and lingerie 45 e Fagoting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 4243 pa j Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 2 i A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest 46 1 Here s How Fold under each fabric edge 5 8 and press Pin the two edges to paper or tear away backing 1 8 apart Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needie catches the foided edge on each side e Two point Shell Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width Y control 3to 5 gt L i ka gt 2131 a Cc os o gt gt E TX 2 r 3 Top thread tension Fi control 3 to 8 Stitch length al control red R zone This stitch can also be used as a 2 ingle overlock stitch We ma sing S o 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot e Two point Box Stitch e Overedging Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 y 23 t gt E V Top thread tension Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 3 to 8 Stitch length i control red Ca ma control red 2 E pad
37. lance Rickrack stretch In stretch stitch sewing the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a neutral position or between and position When sewing some fabrics you may need to adjust this control to balance the stitches for appearance sake if the design seems open like the illust rations to the left adjust the control slightly toward until it looks like the center design If the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations turn the control toward until stitching is as you desire Reverse Stitch Control Pa Reverse pe es N N if To reverse stitch hold down this con trol during sewing Release to sew forward again Starting To Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew 1 Inspect the needle It should be straight properly set and sharp on the point It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold
38. late Start to stitch at a medium speed Rethread machine Loosen upper thread tension Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Insert new needle Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Breaking Bobbin Thread Improper bobbin threading Lint in bobbin holder or hook race Check bobbin threading Clean bobbin holder and hook race Fabric not Moving Marnie i Darning plate in place Stitch Length set at Thread knotted under fabric Push pull clutch is disengaged Remove darnin Remove darning Adjust Stitch Length Control Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch Push in the clutch plate plate Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Thread caught in hook race Lint in bobbin holder or hook race Disassemble and clean hook race Clean bobbin holder and hook race 63 Unplug the machine and open the face cover plate CAUTION The light bulb could be 64 HOT Protect your fingers when you handle it Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter clockwise to remove it Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise To insure that your machine operates at its best you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times The bobbin area can collect dust and lint Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught Turn off the power switch or unplug Take out the bobbi
39. lique 36 Chart Zone monogram embroidery sewing bar tacks onp 15 RICK RACK Zigzag Check 2 6 Brown 2 5 Decorate garments with one row or several 49 STRETCH Chart Stretch onp 15 Stitch 3 3 Position fens pon Check 2 6 Red 23 Use for finishing seams and hemming 42 Chart Zone onp 15 t BLIND HEM Zigzag STITCH 26 Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach Tension Length Width Refer to Page OVERCAST Brown Use for swimwear ski pants and other STRETCH Stretch garments that require stretch Stitch BB Position q F 1 THREE STEP Zigzag Check 2 6 0 51 5 Use for finishing seams 44 i ZIGZAG Chart Use for mending gt on p 15 z3 lt oe gt lt i SMOCKING Zigzag Check 2 6 Brown 3 5 Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch 50 STITCH Chart Stretch NAN onp 15 Stitch NO naa Position 253 NAN H One ene i NG O Ng SHELL Satin Check 4 9 Red 3 5 Finish hems sleeve and neck openings 45 STITCH Chart Zone Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to on p 15 overcast and seam Qe Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie f SERGING Zigzag Blue 11 3 6 Brown 3 5 Finish hems sleeve and neck openings 51 onp 15 Stretch Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to Stitch overcast and seam q 3 Position Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie Practical Stitch Chart Continued Stitch Th
40. ll stitching see page 45 Geometric decorative stitching see page 48 13 Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing In the needle case you will find the following color coded needles Blue 11 for stretch fabrics Orange 11 for lightweight fabrics Red 14 for medium or medium heavy weight fabrics Purple 16 for medium heavy weight and decorative topstitching on these fabrics This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread Green 18 for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top stitching on these fabrics e Check the Needle 1 Look for barbed or blunt point 2 A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits fine sitks and silk like fabrics Always buy a good quality thread t should resist tangling and be strong smooth and consistent in thickness 14 FABRIC Lightweight Batiste Dimity Chiffon Silks Fine Lace Organza Crepe Taffeta Voile Organdy e Fabric Needle Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR 11 ORANGE THREAD SIZE Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING 2 12 stitches per inch Medium Weight Cotton Cotton Blends Percale Gingham Shantung Pique Seersucker Satin Knits Suitings Linen Wool Crepe Leather 50 Mercer
41. mmon 4 Draw the threads toward the back and lower the presser foot Press the foot control 6 Hold the fabric loosely and gently guide it along the guide line so that it feeds naturally Do not force the fabric or try to pull it tight 7 8 9 At the beginning and end of the seam you may want to reverse to lock the stitch Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric Cut the threads e Use the Seam Guides Cornering guide The seam guides on the needle plate are engraved to help you measure seam width The lines are 1 8 apart with the 5 8 and 7 8 lines marked e Turn a Square Corner Cornering To turn a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge 1 Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning hand wheel toward you when the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guide as shown 2 Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the edge with the 5 8 seam guide 3 Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction 31 e Darning Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 als 1 4 O EE _ Cw Lt gt Top thread tension control Stitch length 2 to6 control any number not necessary to adjust U Z lt 3 1 Drop the feed dogs li 2 Stretch the fabric with the hole in the center Gaan o 4 between embroidery hoops as shown ET SEA 3 Lower the pres
42. n Insert the bobbin the machine f Brush out dust and lint or you may use a vacuum cleaner Attach the hook cover plate Remove the cover plate by sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine 1 Unplug the machine and remove 5 the presser foot and needle 2 Remove the bobbin cover plate Remove the screw on the left side of the needle with the large screw driver 4 Remove the needle plate Hook race 6 Use the lint brush to clean the 7 feed dogs hook race and bobbin holder Also use a soft dry cloth Open face cover plate and oil two points as shown below at least once a year One or two drops of oil is sufficient Remove excess oil otherwise it may stain fabrics Take out the bobbin Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it In case machine is not used for an extended time oil it before sewing Use good quality sewing machine oil No other oiling is required Above points are only area which require oiling on this machine Line up the triangle marks and position the bobbin holder so the notch fits next to the stopper in the hook race 65 PARTS LIST 10 11 12 13 14 go ff is A W JS lt ES E US 19 20 21 22 23 29 IN 66 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co store or service center WHEN ORDERING REP
43. ntinued 4 a b d e NOTE 60 Optional Item Marked buttonhole Fabric Measurement markings Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment Placing your garment behind the machine insert it between the guide Ars plate and the buttonhole foot as shown Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonhole foot Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the guide plate just in front of the buttonhole foot as shown Pierce the fabric with the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole If you want your buttonhole to be 1 2 inch from the garment edge line up the fabric with the 1 2 inch markings each time you start to sew a buttonhole We recommended the use of interfacing when making buttonholes If the fabric does not feed smoothly from the start increase the stitch length Lower the buttonhole foot Start sewing slowly Allow the machine to do the work by itself Do not try to guide the fabric Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins To release the buttonhole base plate pull the lever toward you and lift the base plate off the machine Adjusting the stitch density You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length control between 3 and 4 Fine stitches for light fabrics 2 Stitch length Wir ey control 3 to 4 o UR Coarse stitches for heavy fabrics 4 Stretch Stitc
44. on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam Test the machine stitch on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to the fabric Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed an the 5 8 seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the foot control the faster the machine will sew Fasten each seam by back tacking sewing a few stitches in reverse Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you 25 Selection Foot and Other Attach Straight Zigzag E EE STRAIGHT Thread Tension Stitch Length Refer to Page Regular seams zippers topstitching quilting darning etc Zipper foot afi A E Aa STRAIGHT Straight Zigzag Check 2 6 Brown 0 Use on knits and other stretch fabrics good 49 STRETCH Chart Stretch for topstitching onp 15 Stitch il Position ttl lll lil ZIGZAG Zigzag Check 3 8 Red 145 Finish edges buttons satin stitch app
45. r on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam It is also great for sewing spandex swim wear e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching NOTE Here s How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made over the edge When using stretch knit fabric use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches e Elastic Stretch Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 1 213 LAOS ey SS Top thread tension contro 3 to 6 Stitch length contro brown stretch stitch position 2 o Stretch Stitch G Zigzag foot Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments 1 Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front center back and side seams 2 Place the middie of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place making sure the elastic is evenly distri buted 51 e Stretch Patching Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A Zigzag foot Stitch width control 5 LIL 0 os Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position ly o 4 2 ZEN SSS HN 2 Stretch Stitch 52 The Stitch and Its Uses For patching worn out elbows or knees For patchwork quilting e Herring Bone Stretch Set the Machine Kag Top thread tension control 2 to 6
46. read Selection Foot and Other Attach Tension Refer to Page BOX Use for overlapping seams STITCHING bea Or s P pag r ELASTIC Zigzag Check 3 6 Brown 3 5 kag for applying elastic 51 STRETCH Chart Stretch onp 15 Stitch d Position FAGOTING Zigzag Check 3 8 0 5 2 5 Join two folded edges for decorative 46 Chart open work appearance lt onp 15 Qe da STRETCH Zigzag Check 2 6 Brown 5 Use for patchwork quilting and patching 52 PATCHING Chart Stretch onp 15 Stitch 3 ai Position z TWO POINT SHELL Zigzag Check 3 8 Red 3 5 Do shel tucking on blouses and lingerie 46 STITCHING Chart Zone This stitch can also be used as a single on p 15 overlock stitch a a T E c gt c E gt r r 28 Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach Needle Width Refer to Page HERRING BONE Brown Use as hemming stitch for blankets tablecloth STRETCH Stretch and draperies Stitch Position A TI TWO POINT Zigzag Check 3 8 Red 35 Use for overlapping seams 47 BOX STITCH Chart Zone a J Ly onp 15 E c 3 3 E C5 J 7 r La OVEREDGE Zigzag Check 3 8 Red 3 5 Use for overedging 47 STITCH Chart Zone SS NN onip 15 QR DECORATIVE Satin Check 3 8 Green 3 5 Decorate garments with one row or several 48 GEOMETRICS Chart Zone one stitch or a combination onp 15 STRETCH Check 2 6 Brown 3 5 Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch 53 STITCH Chart Stretch DECORATIVE onp 15 Stitch a Position 2
47. s selected when the stitch iength control is set at the stretch stitch position Suitable width stitch length and foot are shown in the guide message window When you select the desired stitch by turning the stitch setector the information in the window will change automatically Please use the colour in the guide window which corresponds to the colour of the stitch you select NOTE To avoid needle or fabric damage be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when selecting a stitch 23 The stitch width control regulates the width of the stitch you select The higher the number the wider the stitch The t is the maximum width for twin needle stitches The blue zone is adjustable area for button hole stitches 24 Stitch Length Control Stretch Stitch The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch and also has a stretch stitch setting The higher the number the longer the stitch O means no feed To select the Stretch Stitches set this control at Stretch Stitch NOTE When you select decorative stitches green or built in buttonhole blue make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at Stretch Stitch Study the red green brown and blue sections around this control These are recommended zones of stitch length and are color coded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel Adjusting Stretch Stitch Ba
48. ser bar and sew at a slow a speed The drop feed lever is located underneath the free arm bed on the back side of the machine F Satin stitch Stretch Stitch 4 Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area To raise the feed dogs push For dropping the feed dogs 5 Turn the fabric 1 4 turn and sew another the lever in the direction of push the lever in the direction wW Drop feed lever layer of stitching over the first layer the arrow as illustrated of the arrow as illustrated Then turn the handwheel NOTE If your fabric is thin or badly damaged use a separate piece of fabric under the Feed dogs must always be up hole to reinforce it for normal sewing 6 When you finish darning return the pressure dial to 3 32 e Topstitching a Set the Machine Stitch width control O l 234 ow Lt i Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control red N 4 ae WAS A Zigzag foot Stretch Stitch ES H Straight foot Leas mg 2 The Stitch and lts Uses Topstitching emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams and edges flat and crisp Accent suits or blouses with one or two rows of topstitching around the outer edges of cuffs lapels or collars Here s How Lower the presser foot Keep the edge of the fabric next to the right edge of the presser foot Guide the fabric
49. thread tension Do not pull fabric guide it gently Reset presser foot Rewind bobbin Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Breaking Needle Pulling fabric Incorrect size needle Incorrect setting of needle Loose presser foot Do not pull fabric guide it gently Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Reset needie Reset presser foot Bunching of Thread Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4 and hold until a few stitches are formed Puckering Incorrect thread tension Bent or biunt needie Loose presser foot Fabric too sheer or too soft Using two different sizes or kinds of thread Reset thread tension f Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind insert new needie Reset presser foot Use underlay of tissue paper 62 PROBLEM Skipping Stitches PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Incorrect size needle Bent or blunt needle Incorrect setting of needle Tight upper thread tension Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Insert new needle Reset needie Loosen upper thread tension Breaking Upper Thread Starting to stitch too fast improper threading Tight upper thread tension Incorrect size needle Sharp eye in needle Nicks or burrs at hole of needle p
50. utton Stitch several times shank cut the threads leaving a 8 tail Bring the needle thread down through the hole in the button and wind it around the To strengthen the n SEI Draw the thread to the bottom side and knot When finished raise the feed dogs see page 32 e Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 213 1 kay Top thread tension Y control 3 to 8 Stitch length control red zone 2 DAS Helpfu Hints lf Start overcasting about 1 8 inside the o 4 raw corner of your seam If you start right at the edge the fabric will bunch 2 up and the stitches will become tangled A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project 41 e Blind Hemming ct E Y Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 als LES TIN LA Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control red zone 2 GAS o 4 1 se 2 Stretch Stitch N A Zigzag foot 3 4 5 42 OTE 1 4 Balian side of fabric Bottom side of fabric Finsih the raw edge of your hem any way you desire see overcasting page 41 Measure turn up your hem and pin For light weight fabrics you may need a double fold Fold the material bottom side out on the edg
51. ver Tan i op Bobbin thread Base plate Rectangular hole 1 a Remove the extension table b Raise the needle to its highest position c Remove the foot holder d Pull bobbin thread out about 3 straight back toward rear of machine e Insert hook of base plate into rectangular hole of needle plate f Pull lever back to align the hook with the rectangular hole g Snap base plate down to fit two pins A at the back of base plate into two round holes B on needle plate Release lever Optional Item Buttonhole guide plate Template Catch Guide block Gear Base plate NI o When you have selected the template with the size and style button 3 hole you need slide the template into the guide plate b Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button hole size you have chosen is at the setting mark Insert gear of base plate into slot of template and fit guide block z into the center of the guide slot d Starting point Bobbin thread Attach the buttonhole foot Adjust position of gear so it is aligned with the starting point of template The lever can be used to change gear position Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel toward you while holding top thread Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of guide plate Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread 59 Buttonhole Making Co
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