JVC HAFX30A Headphones User Manual
Contents
1. 9 When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STRAIGHT STITCHING Set your machine just as shown in the illustration in order to straight stitch it is important each dial have the following settings en SC Kees bsegenegtetergegegegd Eorna ES A iere Lee Kasel kengt ane ka Sree amra E ec besse Ka mees Zi SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Stitch Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control Any Number Straight Stitch Foot SUIT You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing temporary and permanent 1 Temporary stitching Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric The various types of temporary stitching are Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2 Permanent stitching This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10 12 stitches per inch This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics multiple layers of fabric and thicker seams Some of these seams are Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams When you have two seams crossing each other with consi2. BACK VIEW 20 21 Hand Wheel 23 24 25 GG Bit GC Light and Power Switch Connector Bobbin Winder Shaft Bobbin Winder Latch Thread Spool Pin 26 27 28 29 30 31 SG O GG Bobbin Winder Tension Disc Thread Guide Presser Foot Lever Thread Cutter Needle Clamp Screw Feed Dogs CONNECTING MACHINE Lift hinged extension at the left side of machine bed plate For more sewing space tip the bed plate cover up by pushing right edge as shown in Fig 2 Turn the accessory box toward you as shown in Fig 2 Fig 3 shows the machine ready to sew with all the extensions in place for maximum sewing space Push the plug onto three prong connector at the back of machine column Plug machine cord into any 110 120 volt wall outlet Turn on power by pushing light and power switch Pull up spool pin stored at top of machine WINDING THE BOBBIN Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown in Fig 1 Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin and place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin fitting the notch on the bobbin over locking stud on the shaft as shown in Fig 2 Push bobbin winder latch against bobbin until it clicks Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob as shown in Fig 4 Start machine holding onto end of thread When bobbin is
3. ing pages for more specific uses STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection Straight Stretch Rick Rack Stretch Smocking Stretch Elastic Stretch Overcast Stretch SE STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial in Stitch Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control 8 Straight Stitch Foot Use straight stitching plate Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam but will stretch if necessary This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch Use in children s shorts and Slacks as well as adult sports clothes NANAN NZNZNZNZ Sa e a ei GI Hunt a Ze Ka RT CH AN MOTTA CRUE H MULL 0 eas RICK RACK STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial in Stitch Width Control 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control 8 Zigzag Presser Foot Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zig zag stitch This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Step 1 Make a straight line of gathers acros
4. 10 Zigzag foot or blindstitch guide Use zigzag stitching plate After you have turned up the hem width desired turn raw edge over 1 2 and stitch this fold with a basting stitch Press Fold hem back against right side of garmet with basted raw edge extending about 1 8 to right of garment fold Fig 1 Raw edge fold Fig 2 Hem folded back 34 Fig 3 Fabric placed in blindstitch guide Place the fold of the hem in the two left slots of the attachment for ease in guiding the fabric Make certain that the zigzag stitch catches the fold of the hem by adjusting the blindstitch guide slightly from left to right Fig 4 Stitching along fold with blind stitch Fig 5 Finished hem on right side of Remove basting and press hem Right garment side of garment will show only the blind stitches as in Fig 5 35 ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Stitch Width Control Red Dot Stitch Length Control 12 to 10 Zipper Foot Use straight stitching plate REGULAR ZIPPER The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper Adjust the foot so the needle clears the side notch on the foot See Fig 1 Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper se
5. in guiding the fabric If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric reduce the pressure When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric reduce the pressure Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics 15 SEWING LIGHT The light and power switch shown in Fig 1 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light In order to operate the machine this switch must be on To turn on the light depress the upper side of the switch lf you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattend ed just turn off the switch and the ma chine cannot be started accidentally The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown To replace the bulb turn light off and swing the face cover plate open Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise Remove bulb from socket Push in new bulb and turn counter clockwise 16 17 SEAM GUIDES Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guid ing your fabric THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE ALL IMPORTANT 5 8 SEAM LINE The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge See next section of this book for directions PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot the lever can raise the foot beyond the normal up position This is also a
6. slightly filled release end of thread When bobbin is full winding mechanism stops Pushin hand wheel or turning clutch knob to return to stitching position Remove bobbin THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1 To remove bobbin case from the shuttle raise needle to its highest position 2 Open bed plate cover and remove accessory box 3 Pull open latch of bobbin case 4 Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle 5 Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak ing sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown Pull thread through slot of case as shown Pull thread under tension spring Holding latch open position case into shuttle and release latch Case should lock into place when latch is released Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn Bring bob bin thread up by pulling upper thread ebe EE THREADING OF TOP THREAD Model 1050 2 TTT s ALEE seg SSPE a z ale ADEA ERE RE A ER a n BR a TOP TENSION CONTROL Model 1050 Model 1020 1030 1040 1045 HER D pists w i on Bes vd S Bis S D s E DN ei D ii ET Oe en Z Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension It consists of discs between which the thread passes The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of the control The higher the number the
7. tighter the tension There are many reasons for having to reset your tension The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric thickness of the fabric numbers of layers of fabric being sewn as well as the type of stitch you are making It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before Starting to make a garment To adjust for the correct stitch see next page ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom 2 Upper thread too tight Decrease Tension 3 Upper thread too loose increase Tension ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads Be sure to balance them as indicated on Page 9 When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case make slight adjustments with a screwdriver DECREASE TENSION Turn Counter Clockwise INCREASE TENSION Turn Clockwise STITCH LENGTH CONTROL The stitch length control located on the right side of the machine regulates the length of the stitch you select THE HIGHER THE NUMBER THE SHORTER THE STITCH The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the f
8. two different sizes or kinds Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind Puckering of thread Bent or blunt needle Insert new needle Loose presser foot Reset presser foot Fabric too sheer or too soft Use underlay of tissue paper OV PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Certain knits and synthetics Use ONEEIDLE ww Skipping Bent or blunt needle Insert new needle Stitches Incorrect setting of needle Reset needle Tight upper thread tension Loosen upper thread tension Light pressure on presser foot Increase pressure on presser foot Starting to stitch too fast Start to stitch at a medium speed Improper threading Rethread machine Tight upper thread tension Loosen upper thread tension Breaking Upper incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Thread Sharp eye in needle Insert new needle Nicks or burrs on shuttle Replace shuttle or polish off burrs completely on BERENS BE EES Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Improper bobbin case threading Check bobbin case threading Breaking Bobbin Tight bobbin thread tension Loosen bobbin thread tension ek Lint in bobbin case or shuttle Clean bobbin case and shuttle Feed dog down Raise feed dog Fabric not Light pressure on presser foot Increase pressure on presser foot Moving Place both threads back under presser foot befor
9. 69565 E TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 Knowing Your Sewing Machine Identifying Parts Connecting Machine Threading Bobbin Top Thread Using the Controls Top Tension Control Adjusting Bobbin Tension Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Control Feed Dog Control special Stitch Dial Pressure Regulator Sewing Light seam Guides Accessories Needles oeann Needle Thread Fabric Chart Presser Feet Zigzag and Straight Stitching Needle Starting to Sew Garment Construction Stitches Straight Stitching Zigzag Stitching Stretch Stitching Special Finishing Stitches Satin Stitching Appliqueing Buttonhole Making Button Sewing Bar Tacking Blind Hemming Zipper Application Special Edge Stitch Mending Darning 3 Checking Performance Problems 4 Caring for the Machine Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate Oiling Underside Oiling Face Cover Plate Parts List zs FRONT VIEW preas s et ee a O QVOHOQVOLSO Ce E Accessory Box Hinged Extension Needle Plate Zigzag Stitching Plate Presser Foot Thread Guide Thread Guide Thread Tension Regulator Thread Guide Face Cover Plate 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Thread Guide Take up Lever Top Thread Tension Control Threading Path Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control Reverse Stitch Control Stitch Length Control Nomenclature Plate 1 Knowing Your Sewing Machine DIG
10. LING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back and remove bottom cover to oil points indicated on underside of machine To remove bottom cover remove screws A B C D and E as shown below 43 OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE Swing hinged face cover plate open and remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in illustration SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Roebuck and Co or Simpsons Sears Limited Stores Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the right side of your Sewing Machine See Section 1 page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chicago IL 60684 U S A S 158 7 Part No 69565 11 91
11. abric you are sewing A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric The middle range of the control is the 10 12 stitch per inch range which is the most commonly used A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting 6 stitches per inch The marking on this control is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in Satin Stitching This control regulates the width of the stitch you select THE HIGHER THE NUMBER THE WIDER THE STITCH You may vary your zigzag stitch width by adjusting this control to the setting you desire _ This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching 10 REVERSE STITCH CONTROL It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse This is called back tacking Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and prevents raveling When reverse stitching is needed turn the control clockwise and hold there during sewing The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and seam will be fastened FEED DOG CONTROL The feed dog control is located on the machine behind accessory box There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself When the control is pushed down the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric For most of your sewing turn the control to the up position Feed dog up 11 SPECIAL STITCH DIAL There are certain types of util
12. ctice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching Im CC am Ht UI D t p ay AE D j i AN emer sa aay di E E AAA Start Fig 1 Fig 2 32 33 E E BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Feed Dogs Down Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching plate 1 Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely 2 Turn hand wheel manually until needle point is just above button 3 Adjust stitch width contro so needle will enter left hole of the button 4 Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole Re adjust stitch width if necessary Stitch a number of times 5 Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie BAR TACKING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Stitch Width Control 2 to 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching plate This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches BLIND HEMMING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial lt Stitch Width Control 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control 12 to
13. derable thickness sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area 24 25 H i EZ _ KE 3 Fa E a wm aa _ Ga FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot Lower needle into fabric about 1 2 inch from beginning of seam Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam Release control and complete seam When you reach the end turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1 2 inch of completed seam TURNING A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5 8 from the fabric edge stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric when reaching the cornering guide as shown Raise the presser foot turn fabric New stitching line will align with 5 8 seam guide on side of needle plate Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot stitch Width Control 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control Any Number Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag needle plate This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams blind hem applique button hole monogram and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine Simply use the settings indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag Follow directions given in the follow
14. e Thread knotted under fabric beginning to stitch EEN Thread caught in shuttle Disassemble and clean shuttle Knocking Noise Tee Shuttle _ Shuttle driver Shuttle Race Fig 2 CLEANING AND OILING Fig 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a brush To insure the best possible operation of your machine it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times Using a small brush remove the lint that accumulates tn the shuttle area and around the feed dogs Fig 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly To Clean the Shuttle Area 1 This area must be kept free of dust lint and occasional tangled thread Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case 2 Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shut tle out 3 Clean the shuttle race with small brush 4 Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race see arrows To Replace Shuttle Assembly 1 Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle driver is forming half moon on the left side of tne machine 2 Hold shuttle by center pin and po sition shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side Pointed hook will be on the bottom 3 Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle assembly OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head To remove cover plate lift cover RI 42 OI
15. e Fig 2 Follow the zipper manu facturer s instructions After zipper has been inserted finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc Cover a cord with a Strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig 3 37 SPECIAL EDGE STITCH SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial 3 Stitch Width Control 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching plate This is an attractive overcasting stitch you may want to use on fabrics that fray easily MENDING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial 3 Stitch Width Control 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use straight stitching plate To repair a straight or three cornered tear position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear When mending a three cornered tear stitch from each end to the center It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for re inforcement DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Stitch Width Control Red Dot Pressure Regulator 0 Feed Dogs Up No Presser Foot Remove presser foot stretch fabric be tween embroidery hoops with hole centered Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning Lowering the presser bar start sewing at a
16. eavy Weight Corduroy Mercerized Heavy Duty 14 0r16 Denim Wool Sailcloth Wool Polyester Synthetic Flannel Gabardine Velvets Silk A Leather Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Heavy Weight Coatings Polyester Synthetic 18 Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Silk A Twills Canvas Silk Buttonhole Twist Decorative Top stitching on all 16 18 or Q NEEDLE Polyester Synthetic QSET Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics 50 Mercerized Cotton Q NEEDLE Polyester Double Knits Nylon and Tricot Jersey Stretch Terry Q FOOT Spandex Cire Tricot 19 PRESSER FEET You have been given a variety of presser feet Zigzag Foot Straight Stitch Foot Satin Stitch Foot Zipper Foot Blindstitch Guide with shank m OO0 gt To change snap on feet raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever Press the front of presser foot upward as high as it will go and foot is released See Fig 1 Place the desired foot on the needle plate aligning the needle holes and lower the presser foot lever Press down on presser foot thumb screw until the clamping shank C snaps on the foot See Fig 2 To change the one piece presser feet raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever Loosen the presser foot thumb screw choose the proper foot insert from the front Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot
17. h stitching is made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above Detailed instruc tions are given in the next section of the book STRETCH STITCH SETTING You can make smocking stretch stitching by setting the dial to the setting indicated above See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches BUTTONHOLE SETTING Stretch stitching is easily done by setting the dial to the setting indicated above Details on the use of this stitch are given in the next section of the book The three settings shown above are used in making a bar tacked button hole Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book 14 OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF SEWING MACHINE In addition to the obvious controls of your machine there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine PRESSURE REGULATOR Model 1020 1030 1040 1045 Model 1050 Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator This will release the pressure on the presser foot See Fig 1 above To increase the pressure push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is obtained The pressure on the presser foot is regulated by turning the dial of this regulator which is situated in face cover plate See Fig 2 above To increase the pressure turn the dial clockwise until a suitable pressure is obtained Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric skipped stitches or difficulty
18. is secure BUTTONHOLE GUIDE FEET 21 You have been provided with an assortment of guide feet to aid you in making buttonholes By using these guides you will accurately make identical bar tacked buttonholes every time The feet as illustrated above just slip onto the regular zigzag foot They are 3 8 1 2 5 8 13 16 and 1 1 16 and are marked accordingly You will find detailed instructions as to the making of buttonholes in the next section of this book Follow carefully and always make a practice buttonhole first NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS You are provided with two needle plate inserts The one with the wide oval hole is to be used for all zigzag stitching The one with the round hole is for regular straight stitching or straight stretch stitch sewing CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS 1 Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot Open bed cover plate Remove accessory box from the machine and push a spring under the plate as shown to release the needle plate insert Remove needle plate insert by placing thumb under edge of plate Replace the needle plate insert positioning as shown in Fig 2 Push needle plate insert down to lock into place Reposition the accessory box and bed cover plate 23 Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine you are ready to start to sew with your ne
19. ity stitches you will use often in your home sewing This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand THE RED DOT SETTING The Red Dot setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitching either straight or simple zigzag When the stitch width is set on the Red Dot and the Special Stitch Dial on the Red Dot setting you may straight stitch For a simple zigzag stitch adjust the stitch width control to the desired setting with the dial remaining on the Red Dot setting 12 SPECIAL MENDING STITCH BLIND STITCH SETTING You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears Use of the stitch setting shown is given in more detail in the next section under Mending SPECIAL EDGE STITCH Blind hems are made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above For more detailed instructions in blind hemming see next section of the book ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing combining fabrics and so on Details on the use of this stitch are given in the next section 13 The setting illustrated is used for special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear girdles and other garments that require stretch See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitch OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH Overcast stretc
20. n aid in changing your presser feet NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric See next page Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt point Fig 1 shows you the exact length of your needle Be sure you never use one tn your machine that is not this exact length You will find among your accessories a Q NEEDLE with blue shank This special needle is to be used when sewing certain knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing use QNEEDLE MENT OF NEEDLE Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you Loosen the needle clamp screw Hold ing the needle with the flat side away from you slip the needle into the needle bar When it is in as far as it will go tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver 18 NEEDLE THREAD FABRIC CHART THREAD SIZE vege FABRIC Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Lightweight Batiste Dimity Fine Mercerized Cotton 9 or 11 Chiffon Silks Synthetic Jerseys Polyester Synthetic es Fine Lace Organza Crepe Silk A Taffetta Voile Organdy 50 Mercerized Cotton Medium Weight Cotton Cotton Polyester Synthetic Blends Percale Gingham Silk A 14 Shantung Pique Seersucker Satin Knits Vinyl Suitings Linen Wool Crepe Leather 50 Mercerized Cotton Medium H
21. nter front and back of the gar ment as well as side seams im AN aa d dii a T yy Wl Me vii Kier ei h y h mh Same aid Brems AN Ac o ZE ZS RK SE dm 1 28 After the basic construction of your garment is finished there are still many finishing touches to be done To aid your completion of your garment the Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand ll On SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Red Dot Stitch Width Control Any Number 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Satin Stitch Foot Use zigzag stitching plate Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing monogramming buttonhole making Whenever you are using this stitch it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly The wider the stitch you make the looser the tension should be If you are stitching on a very soft fabric it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric As with all special stitches it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the design on the garment 29 A i SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to yo
22. s the fabric that you wish to smock Step 2 Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control 3 to 4 Stitch Length Control 8 Zigzag Presser Foot With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering stitch over the gathers The design will be a series of small diamonds When smocking a garment the stitch ing should be done before the piece Is sewn into the garment OVERCAST STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial 2 Stitch Width Control 3 to 4 Stitch Length Control 8 Zigzag Presser Foot This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sports wear It is used for seams of 3 8 to 1 4 The seam is formed and finished in one operation It must be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch Fig 1 shows the raw edge finished Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial SG Stitch Width Control 4 Stitch Length Control 8 Zigzag Presser Foot This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie The stitch is decora tive as well as useful Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters and match these markings with ce
23. slow to medium speed Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area When it is covered turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching 38 3 Checking Performance Problems WHAT TO DO PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric improper threading Rethread machine Loose upper thread tension Tighten upper thread tension Pulling fabric Do not pull fabric guide it gently Irregular Light pressure on presser foot Increase pressure on presser foot Stitches Loose presser foot 7 Reset presser foot Unevenly wound bobbin Rewind bobbin Nicks or burrs on shuttle Replace shuttle or polish off burrs completely iia or burrs at hole of needle Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely plate Pulling fabric Do not pull fabric guide it gently Breaking Incorrect size needle Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Needle Incorrect setting of needle Reset needle Loose presser foot Reset presser foot a a Na a a a a B hi e Upper and lower threads not drawn When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and Se Ve S back under presser foot before back of presser foot about 4 and hold until a few stitches de Starting seam are formed Incorrect thread tension s Reset thread tension s Light pressure on presser foot Increase pressure on presser foot l Using
24. tion by turning handwheel toward you manually 2 Set special stitch dial at D Stitch forward until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot The toe of the presser foot will be touching the end of the guide foot Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to its highest position as in Step 1 3 Set special stitch dial at DU again and bartack several times Raise needle at its highest position as in steps 1 amp 2 4 Set special stitch dial at D and continue sewing until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the right side of the guide foot You will have reached the bartacking done in Step 1 HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES The presser foot and buttonhole guide foot should be in this position at the start of the buttonhole sewing The needle must be lowered at the marked line for the beginning of the buttonhole See Fig 1 When the full length of the button hole is reached the presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig 2 The presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig 1 when buttonhole is completed To make firm well stitched button holes in heavier fabrics repeat only steps 1 and 3 on the preceding page if the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching as shown in Fig 3 slightly adjust the stitch length control during forward Sewing Always make a pra
25. ur garment and baste it in place Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color BUTTONHOLE MAKING SETTINGS Stitch Width Control 4 Stitch Length Control Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching plate Carefully mark the position and length of each buttonhole on your garment Select the proper size buttonhole guide foot to corre spond with the length of button hole Mount the guide foot onto the presser foot Holding on to the top thread rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn Pull the upper thread under and to the back of the buttonhole guide foot See Figs 1 amp 2 Note in Fig 3 that each guide foot has a dot on the right edse toward the back of the foot and on the left edge near the front of the foot These dots are used as a point of reference for your bartack ing steps in buttonholing See next page Slide the guide foot forward until the rear edge of the presser foot is at the rear edge of the guide Place the fabric with the marked buttonhole under the guide foot Lower the presser foot lever and follow steps on next page Check Hints for Perfect Button holes on Page 32 30 31 1 Set special stitch dial at D and bartack several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole Stop sewing at the left stitch Raise needie to its highest posi
26. w Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew 1 Test the needle it should be straight properly set and sharp on the point it should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers 2 Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam 3 Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric 4 Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5 8 seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam 5 Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the speed control the faster the machine will sew 6 Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam 7 Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point 8 Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered
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