HTC OPAL100 Cell Phone User Manual
Contents
1. Serging stretch Polyester nylon or STRETCH KNITS FOR SWIMWEAR AND SKI Overcast stretch dacron core thread WEAR OR GIRDLES Elastic edge stretch Q NEEDLE m Elastic stretch Q FOOT m Lace seam tape Pre shrunk zippers Three step zigzag See the optional accessories on page 6 Straight Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to strengthen curved seams on all fabrics or to do all straight stitching on knit or synthetic fabrics 1 Sew as you do with the regular straight stitch Rick Rack Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch for knits and synthetic fabrics whenever you want a zigzag stitch Also use this stitch as a decorative top stitch 1 Sew as you do with the regular zigzag stitches Smocking Stretch Stitch Use this stitch as a decorative stitch Also choose this stitch to bind gathers with a smocking pattern NOTE You should have the fabric gathered before using this stitch 1 Pin a narrow strip of fabric under the line where you will bind gathers 2 Stitch over the gathers through to the strip of fabric beneath NOTE Complete the smocking of your fabric before sewing it to the garment 41 Overcast Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to seam and finish the raw edge at the same time Choose this stitch to repair raw or worn edges of older garments 1 To seam and overcast at the same time you must have the raw edges of your fabric to the ri2. Eye of needle has sharp edges Replace needie There are nicks or burrs at needle plate opening Replace needle plate or smooth burrs with extra fine Emory cloth Bobbin thread breaks Bobbin case is not threaded correctly See page 12 Lint accumulates in bobbin case or shuttle Remove lint see page 55 Fabric puckers _ Top and bobbin thread tensions are too tight _ Adjust thread tensions see page 17 Two different sizes or types of thread are used Use same size and types of thread on top and in bobbin Needle is bent or blunt Replace needle Stitch length is too long for sheer or soft fabric Shorten stitch length or use underlay of tissue paper Presser foot holder is not fastened securely Retighten presser foot thumb screw WW x SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Roebuck and Co Stores Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to
3. Choose this stitch to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie 1 Set same as satin stitch 2 Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches on top of the fabric Applique To applique a design on a sewing project or garment 1 Baste the applique to the top of your fabric 2 Then use satin stitch to attach permanently You may want to use a contrasting color thread NOTE For best results be sure your satin stitch covers the bottom fabric and the top fabric Embroidery and Monogramming Satin stitch method Satin stitch can be used to produce many different designs and patterns 1 Set controls the same as for satin stitch 2 Back the fabric with paper or interfacing 3 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk 4 Satin stitch adjusting the stitch width as necessary to form each pattern 5 If using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing Free hand method 1 a Attach the feed cover plate see page 20 b Remove the presser foot holder see page 19 c Set the stitch width at 1 to 5 as desired 2 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk 3 Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops and place under the needle 4 Lower the presser foot lever to engage the top thread tension 5 a Holding the top thread in your left hand rotate the hand wheel toward you one complete turn b Pull the top thread to draw the bobbin thread
4. 4 Pull both ends of the cord forward under the guide 5 Sew your buttonhole so that the stitching covers the cord 6 When stitching is complete release the cord from the spur pull the ends of the cord and snip off the extra length Buttonhole Attachment System For more varied and accurate buttonholes read carefully how to set up your machine you will enjoy using the buttonhole attach properly You will need these items for the ment and templates Know the parts and buttonhole attachment system Template advance knob Buttonhole guide plate Hook Density control knob Buttonhole foot Feed cover plate ock Buttonhole adapter lever Set up the machine Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector See page 17 Buttonhole foot Stitch length control ree af Feed cover plate on needle plate Not necessary to adjust Remove the extension table Raise the needle to its highest position Remove the presser foot i ee control C d Position the feed cover plate in place a b Open the bobbin access cover Make sure the lock lever of the buttonhole adapter is at the right released position c Pulling the density control knob toward you insert the two hooks of the buttonhole adapter between the two pins located under the needle plate d Push the lock lever away from you until _ the adapter snaps into place 3
5. Stitch selector Stitch length contro UHR 12 or orange range Models without stitch width control By rotating the stitch selector it is possible to choose six different widths of zigzag These are illustrated on the dial which will produce the various zigzag widths as shown in the diagram The stitch selector can be turned in succession with ease within the zigzag stitch yange Use this feature to make decorative patterns Satin stitch foot Overcasting stitch Choose this stitch to keep seams or fabric from raveling NOTE To reinforce seams with overcasting it is recommended to use the three step zigzag see page 33 1 Stitch so that the point of the zigzag clears the raw edge of the fabric Satin stitch Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin Stitches Choose this stitch for bar tacking applique ing embroidery and monogramming 1 Set the stitch length control at the orange line between 0 and 24 2 Use the satin stitch foot which is grooved to permit dense stitching to pass under it easily NOTE You may need to loosen the top thread tension to prevent puckering The wider the stitch the looser the tension should be See page 17 Use tissue paper or interfacing beneath a soft fabric to improve the appearance of this stitch Practice the stitch on a piece of the fabric you will use before actually stitching your sewing project Bar tacking
6. NOTE See the instructions on page 30 for zigzag stitch overcasting The three step overcasting stitch is stronger than the regular zigzag overcast stitch Use this stitch to keep fabric from puckering E Blind Hem Top thread tension control Stitch width contro Stitch selector Presser foot Stitch length control ko TTT Aeey For easier blind hemming it is recommended Zigzag foot VVV Regular blind stitch for normal fabrics MMN Elastic blind stitch for soft stretchable fabrics Mode 14571 only INSIDE OF DRESS FINAL HEM LENGTH FINISHED lt EDGE 34 to use the adjustable blind hem foot optional accessory item No 6886 see page 6 12 or green range Choose this stitch to use on garments and especially on curtains and drapery hems so that stitches need not show on the front of the fabric 1 Finish the raw edges depending on what you are sewing and the nature of fabric NOTE For light weight fabrics you may need a double fold The hem should be pressed and pinned in place 2 a Fold the garment away from the hem b Leave1 8 inch of the hem edge exposed 3 a With the wrong side up place the fabric under the foot b Lower the presser foot c Stitch so that the needle just pierces the fold when the needle swings to the left 4 Unfold the garment and press the hem RIGHT SIDE OF fiat FINISHED HEM 35 B Box Stitc
7. PART DESCRIPTION 3 MODEL NUMBER shown on the nomen 4 NAME OF ITEM clature plate See page 3 for location if the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling Optional accessories Optional accessories help simplify the detail sewn garments a ing that give your professional look Q NEEDLE No 65820 No 6746 Q SET No 6986 Helps avoid skipped stitches especially with synthetic stretch and knit fabrics Holds fabric folded for blind hem sewing Roller foot No 6763 Hinged zigzag type foot that has one roller in front of needle Blind hem foot No 6885 Even feeding foot No 6887 Feeds both fabric layers simultaneously to help prevent bunching of Ultra Suede fabric satin tricot or other slick fabrics eases pattern matching Zipper foot No 6757 For invisible zippers Ruffler pleater No 6891 Gathers fabric to ease making curtains flounces etc and another roller behind it Recommended for imitation leather or vinyl for how to choose needle 5 pcs Regular color coded needles Size 9 Brown No 6550 Size 11 Orange No 6551 Size 14 Red No 6552 Size 16 Purple No 6953 Size 18 Green No 6554 Needle threader No 43780 10 plastic bobbins No 6868 Oil Oiler Contents 30 cc Oil No 689
8. Release the buttonhole adapter by pushing down and pulling the lock lever You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the density control knob on the buttonhole adapter a Toward you for more density QasaeRaHAninnnAinee A WANA ANY ANA b Away from you for less density a e a eZee en Ue ee oe gta i U Stitch density density control knob 53 7 CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Change the light bulb 1 Unplug the machine 2 a Using the screw driver push down the lever located behind the presser bar and the bulb will come out b Push the lever to the right to lock 3 a Push up the bulb and turn slightly to the left b Pull down to remove it a Insert the new bulb and turn it with some upward pressure until it stops b Push up the bulb and turn to the right to lock into place 5 Push the lever back to the left and then up into the machine Clean your machine Factory lubricated parts will provide years of household sewing without routine oiling To retain the high quality level built in your machine clean it regularly Watch for lint collecting around the needlebar bobbin case holder locating pin and feed dogs Whenever changing the bobbin or needle observe these areas and clean as necessary Sears service technicians will routinely check for possible lubrication needs whenever your machine requires service Clean the feed dogs
9. Darning 1 a Attach the feed cover plate see page 20 b Remove the presser foot holder see page 19 c Stretch the fabric with the hole in the center between embroidery hoops as shown 2 Lower the presser foot lever and sew ata slow speed l 3 Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm until you have covered the darning area 4 When the area is covered turn the fabric so that you can repeat the procedure across the first stitches NOTE If the garment is badly damaged you may want to put a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it 26 Basting Set the stitch length control at 6 Set the top thread tension control at 1 2 to facilitate pulling out bobbin thread Insert pins at right angles to the seam line with the tip of pins just touching the seam line NOTE Pins must not come in contact with the feed dogs Never pin on the underside of the fabric Sew over the tip of pins slowly NOTE If in doubt about sewing over pins remove each pin as you approach it Gathering 1 Set the stitch length control at 6 2 Set the top thread tension control at 1 2 Sew one or as many rows of parallel stitches as required but do not backtack at the begginings and ends of the rows Remove the fabric and draw up the bobbin thread to gather the fabric to the required length or fullness 27 28 Needle to left of foot ee E Needle
10. foot and take one stitch to the left point B to C Raise the presser foot with the needle in the fabric Turn the stitch selector to the widest zigzag position Bartack about three stitches and stop with the needle on the left side of stitching point D Raise the presser foot Return the stitch selector to the original position Lower the presser foot and sew the other side of buttonhole d Stop with the needle in the fabric on the left side of stitching point E Raise the presser foot and turn the stitch selector to the widest zigzag position Lower the presser foot and bartack about three stitches Remove the fabric and cut the hole open Built in Method Top thread tension contro Stitch width control Stitch selector RHN Zigzag foot plus Blue buttonhole buttonhole guide range Adjust the stitch width Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only You may adjust the width of the sides and the space in the center within the blue range 3 5 4 5 as shown depending upon your fabric and buttonhole length The space gets wider for wider buttonhole oh AN Ra omavmeana Adjust the stitch density More density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length control 1 For more density turn the control toward 9A 2 For less den
11. lever so that the presser foot holder snaps on the foot 6 Push down the presser foot thumb screw to engage the foot holder and the foot securely Foot holder Screw type presser feet To use some accessory feet see page 6 you may need to remove the presser foot holder 1 Bring the needle to the up position 2 Raise the presser foot lever 3 Turn the presser foot thumb screw toward the back of the machine using the large screw driver 4 Remove the presser foot holder 5 Insert the new foot 6 a Lower the presser foot lever b Tighten the thumb screw using the screw driver to fit the foot securely Use the Feed Cover Plate The feed dogs automatically feed the fabric If you want to prevent the feed dogs from feeding the fabric use the Feed Cover Plate which covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric NOTE Use the feed cover plate when sewing on buttons making buttonholes with the snap in automatic buttonholer and darning 1 Insert the two knobs on the feed cover plate into the two holes on the fabric feed area The curved corners will be toward you when it is in place Use the Double Needle Place the second spool of thread on the extra spool pin and thread the machine as you would for a single needle except the double thread guides provided below the needle clamp screw Draw one thread through each of these and through each side of the needle ox WRK from front to back M
12. to right of foot Attaching a zipper 1 To sew down the right side of the zipper attach the left side of the zipper foot to the presser foot holder so that the needle passes through the opening on the left side of the foot 2 To sew down the left side attach the right side of the foot to the foot holder Cording Use the zipper foot to make cording for slip covers pillows etc 1 Attach the right side of the zipper foot to the presser foot holder 2 Wrap the cord with a strip of true bias 3 Stitch close to the cord Zigzag stitches Top thread tension control Presser foot Zigzag foot Models with stitch width control The simple zigzag stitching enables you to do many exciting things with your sewing machine Beyond basics you ll use this stitch to applique embroider and monogram Unlike the straight stitch the zigzag stitches have a side to side width as well as a stitch ength You will find ideas for many zigzag Operations on following pages You can create an exciting variety of zigzag stitches by adjusting stitch width and length controls see the chart below Extra wide zigzag for heavy fabrics or those that fray set width at 5 Wide zigzag for double layers like hemming set width at 4 Medium zigzag for most construction seams set width at2 3 Narrow zigzag for light fabrics barely shows set width at 1 T 4 2 39 4 5 2 Thom Stitch width control
13. 0 Machine needles See page 14 10 pcs Ball point color coded needles No 6747 Size 9 Silver Brown x 4 pcs Size 11 Silver Orange x 4 pcs Size 14 Silver Red x 2 pcs 2 pcs Double needles No 6749 5 pcs Q Needles Blue No 6746 SE Accessory set No 68401 Expands your machine s uses from simple mending to deatiled gather ing quilting shirring and more Includes hemmers and guides Presser feet let you attach braid insert zippers and cording 2 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set up the machine 1 Be sure your machine is resting securely on a sturdy flat surface 2 You may want to practice with a scrap of fabric to absorb any dirt or grease Plug in the machine and switch on the power 1 a Plug the foot control into the machine b Plug the cord into 110 120 volt A C wall outlet 2 a Turn on the power light switch b Be sure to turn off the power light switch if you are interrupted or stop sewing NOTE Your machine will not operate with the power light switch off Set the foot control The foot control regulates the speed of the sewing machine Position the foot control with your heel on the floor The more pressure you apply to the foot control the faster the machine will run Control the presser foot lever The presser foot lever raises and lowers your presser foot 1 Lower the presser foot lever to sew 2 Raise the presser foot lever and the pressure of th
14. 1 Unplug the machine and remove the presser foot 2 Remove the needle plate by loosening the two screws with the large screw driver 3 Use the brush to remove the lint that accumulates in and around the feed dogs and shuttle area Clean the shuttle 1 Unplug the machine 2 a Use your forefinger and thumb to pull open the latch on the bobbin case lt a 7 b fire pn bobbin case out of the shuttle Latch ig 1 3 a Turn the hand wheel until the open side of the retainer is at the top i b Turn the retainer counter clockwise with RY QL Bobbin your forefinger and thumb while holding AA 7 case the hand wheel and it will be released a er ge Fig 2 c Remove the retainer and bobbin case ae Fia 1 holder from the shuttle Fig 3 9 4 Clean the shuttle area with the lint brush NOTE Put a drop of sewing machine oil on the shuttle raceway see Fig 3 occa sionally after thorough cleaning _ See the optional accessories on page 6 _ 5 Turn the hand wheel until the open side of _ the shuttle is at the top 6 Insert the bobbin case holder into the shuttle so that the locating pin fits into the locating groove 7 a Replace the retainer aligning the two latch springs of the shuttle with the cut out portions of the retainer b Turn the retainer clockwise while hold ing the hand wheel until it is secured by 4 the two latch springs 8 Replace the bobbin case SN m
15. Foot control Accessory box Locate and identify the accessories You should find the following items in the accessory box i Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only s OV Je S Spool pins ae spool pin Seam ripper button 64083 Spool pin caps No 44999 No hole opener Bobbins large No 65653 No 6830 small No 65652 Feed coverplate Screw drivers Lint brush Straight stitch Straight stitch No 60934 large No 65811 No 65650 foot No 6873 foot No 56483 small No 65812 DPYPpY S Satin a foot Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Zipper foot Buttonhole guide No 6577 No 57998 No 6792 No 56484 No 41620 You should find the following items in the snap in automatic buttonhole attachment box Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only Buttonhole guide Buttonhole templates Buttonhole Buttonhole plate 1 No 65660 adapter foot No 65665 2 No 65661 No 64061 No 57979 3 No 65662 Parts and accessories fitted on the machine Ne wD Standard zigzag Standard zigzag Presser foot Presser foot thumb Needle clamp foot No 65770 foot No 57985 holder No 56475 screw No 135 screw No 36353 Needle plate Bobbin case Bobbin case holder Light bulb Foot control No 64156 No 63963 No 63977 No 6797 No 6811 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION 1 PART NUMBER 2
16. Knits Polyester Core Cotton Wrap and Stretch 50 Mercerized Cotton 14 RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING 12 stitches perinch 10 to 12 stitches per inch 8 to 10 stitches per inch 8 stitches per inch 6 stitches per inch 10 for Regular or 6 to 12 Stretch Stitches 10 for Regular or 6 to 12 Stretch Stitches Prepare the Top Thread Thread the Needle OT amp Go Raise the presser foot lever to allow the thread to pass between the tension discs in the threading channel Raise the thread take up lever to its highest position by rotating the hand wheel toward you Place a spool of thread on the spool pin Place a suitable size spool cap over the spool Lead the thread through the thread guide A and pull it toward you with your right hand until it clicks to ensure it is threaded correctly Pull the thread down into the threading channel B and up into the channel C while holding the thread with your right hand Slip the thread through the back of the take up lever D NOTE Be sure the thread is running from right to left and pulled all the way forward into the rounded opening 8 Pull the thread down through the channel C again 9 Slip the thread through either of the thread guides E at the base of the needle below the needle clamp screw and pull the thread toward you 10 a Thread the needle from front to back b Draw 3 to 4 inches of
17. Part 60279 OWNER S MANUAL SEARS MODELS 10101 11101 12551 12621 14401 14501 14502 14571 14572 Sears Roebuck and Co Dear Homemaker CONGRATULATIONS You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine Here are just some of its special features Full rotary shuttle with slanted bobbin quiet and smooth running easy access to bobbin best stitching performance and easy maintenance with one touch retainer system Ultra stitch helps make uniform stretch stitches and buttonholes every time The machine automatically adjusts the stitch thickness on forward and reverse stitches so you have fewer adjustments to make when sewing Sew by color recommended ranges of stitch length and width indicated and color coded with stitch patterns Simple and easy threading system To make best use of these wonderful features please read the instructions in this booklet before you start sewing It contains information on operating and caring for your machine You will get specific instructions on threading tension adjustments cleaning using the attachments etc By following these instructions you will get the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control If you need additional advice on the operation and care of your Kenmore machine contact your nearest Sears retail store Please remember to give the model number and serial number whenever you inqu
18. WVWWWWV VVV ANININ lw TN OGO ANIN NINI NINA 447 VN NZ VN ys Q VN DS SS b lt NZ KS KS bn Stitch width control 1 2 439 4 5 3 _tesasS Stitch selector 6 12 Yellow range These eight stitches are built into your machine to use with stretch and knit fabrics Straight stretch stitch Rick rack stretch Smocking stretch Overcast stretch Serging or pine leaf stretch Elastic stretch Overlock stretch Elastic edge stretch model 14571 only NOTE For best results use the Q NEEDLE wm and Q FOOT m for sewing on knit and synthetic fabrics See the optional parts list on page 6 CON OOD WN Ultra Stitch Depending upon your preference in stitch patterns Ultra Stitch feature enables you to make stretch stitches closer together without changing the balance of forward and reverse motion stitches by turning the stitch length control within the yellow range Where to Use Which Stretch Stitch A Check Chart Some Stretchy Suggestions 3 Test the thread tension and stitch on a 1 To keep loosely constructed knits from Sap of the same fabric you wil use catching on the toes of the presser foot 4 Knits contain more yarn and more lint wrap a short strip of transparent tape of than woven fabrics Check often and clean the presser foot encasing both toes the bobbin case area 2 To avoid tangled threads start seams ca
19. a When you have selected the template with the size and style buttonhole you need slide the template into the guide plate under the knob so that the stamped letters on the template point up b Turn the template knob until the size es buttonhole you have chosen appears in Template advance SSX the window of the guide plate knob L Template 4 Slip the guide plate onto the machine so that a the gear on top of the adapter fits into the template arc which shows in the window of the guide plate and b the guide blocks fit into the guide slots 5 a Attach the buttonhole foot b Pull the bobbin thread up through the feed cover plate by turning the hand wheel toward you 52 Make the Buttonhole 1 a Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment _ b Insert your garment between the guide _ plate and the presser foot c Pierce the fabric with the needle at the far end of the buttonhole d Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the far end of the guide plate NOTE lf you want your buttonhole to be 1 2 inch from the garment edge line up the fabric with the 1 2 inch markings each time you start to sew a buttonhole E F 2 a Lower the presser foot b Start sewing slowly c Allow the machine to do the work by itself Do not try to guide the fabric val Summ d Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins 3
20. a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Chicago IL 60684 U S A S 158 Part No 60279 6 91
21. ake certain threads are a ein not crossed SS See the optional accessories on page 6 20 3 LEARN TO USE THE CONTROLS Your machine has many special features to make your sewing both easy and accurate Take a minute to look at the three controls that regulate your stitches Stitch Selector Your sewing machine can make a variety of stitches They are pictured on the Stitch selector Dial In addtion there are three NOTE Beginning on page 24 you will find detailed instructins on the use of each buttonhole steps pictured on the dial also Orange patterns stitch Blue buttonhole steps Yellow pattern Green pattern Blue buttanhole Orange pattern Green patterns Stitch Length Control To lenghten a stitch turn the dial toward you To shorten a stitch you turn the dial away from you You will see 5 numbers on the dial These tell you the number of stitches per inch when you are sewing NOTE Study the orange green yellow and blue sections on this control These Orange pattern range Shorter Longer Yellow pattern range Blue buttonhole range Green pattern range Green pattern range Yellow pattern range Yellow patterns are recommended ranges of stitch length and color coded to the stitches pictured on the Stitch Selector The orange line between 0 and 24 is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in satin stitching Orange pattern range li Blue bu
22. c s00 16 Check the thread tension secese 17 Choose the right presser foot 18 19 Know what the presser foot will do 18 Change the presser foot ceeseeeee 19 Use the feed cover plate sscreueees 20 LEARN TO USE THE CONTROLS Stitch selector dial seess 21 Stitch length dial sicccesinsacteovistenvesseners 21 Stitch width control ceseeree ences 22 Reverse Stitch lever cccescccsecueeseenes 22 Seam guide lineS cccseeeseeeeeewenenees 22 PRACTICE GOOD HABITS Before you begin tO SOW ceeeeseeenees 23 When you begin to SQW csceseeeeee eens 23 LEARN TO USE THE STITCHES Machine setting Chart scseeeeceeeees 24 Straight Stitches erres 25 28 Sewing a straight SCAM aeee 25 Square the COrner cceeeeeeeeseeeens 26 TOP Site MING eccrine anae 26 MID ARIING anaa a En a aA 26 BASUNG reenen E N 27 Gathering cerien ninen EE 27 Attaching a Z pper sssrin 28 COMM erkni an ea ina 28 Zigzag stitches esssseseesssrrersseses 29 32 Overcasting stitch 30 Gaimhnean a 30 Bar ACKING siei ni ey siadenn ss 30 APPIGUE sccvereue caddies a maiean nia 31 YEMDrOIQETY vsciseessvlacvsscrraeesceniawenitas 31 MONOGraMMing ccseceeeseeeeneeeeees 31 Button SOWING cccceseeeeeereneneeeeees 32 Three step ZIGZAG ceccccceeeeeeeeseeeeenes 33 Blind ONT vss sanssiq vaxacageuse Mvdehaaes 34 35 BOX SUE iner eera a anurans 36 NGI SUICH ornen 37 Stet
23. control if necessary See page 17 you never away from you NOW YOU RE READY TO LEARN THE STITCHES PLEASE TURN TO THE NEXT PAGE 23 5 LEARN TO USE THE STITCHES css emma Machine Setting Chart The following pages will show you how to charts select and sew a variety of 1 Set the Stitch Selector stitches shown below 2 Set the Stitch Length Control 4 Use the stitch correctly 3 Set the Stitch Width Control NOTE is may att Ea ral l i o experiment wi ese stitches NOTE Machine settings are graphically This manual will show you the best shown for your quick reference uses of these stitches Simply following the illustrated Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector Presser foot Stitch len th control Zigzag stitch Three step zigzag Built in buttonhole Blind stitch Shell stitch Straight stretch Box stitch Rick rack stretch wo point shell stitch Smocking stretch Elastic blind stitch Ovarcadeeatch Elastic edge stretch Serging stretch Overlock stretch Elastic stretch 24 Straight Stitches Top thread tension contro Stitch width control Stitch selector Sa 4 2 3 4 5 3 Set at 1 to obtain uniform stitches NOTE For most straight stitching the straight foot will give you best control You may use the zigzag foot if you prefer Straight or zigzag foot NOTE Always benin your first stitches by turning the hand wheel towa
24. dentify the parts on your machine After you have unpacked l your new machine setit on a Thread guide flat sturdy surface Study the following diagram so that 7 S ae i 2 SO a you will know the working Threading channel ed parts of your machine lt lt lt Top thread tension control OE j You may need to refer to a Take up lever these diagram often while reading the instructions in this manual Accessory box extension ee table Extension table Thread cutter Needle clamp screw Presser foot release lever Thread guide Thread cutter Needle Cloth guide screw hole Presser foot thumb screw Presser foot Needle plate Feed dogs Seam guide lines Cornering guides NOTE A detailed drawing which shows the parts of the shuttle and bobbin is on page 11 2 Bobbin winder shaft xx Bobbin winder latch Stitch width control Stitch selector Model 14571 14572 only Stitch length control Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only Stitch length indicator Reverse stitch lever Bobbin winder stop Bobbin winder shaft Hand wheel Clutch knob Spool pins Extra spool pin Fold away carrying handle Hand wheel push pull clutch Pull down lever for sewing light Swing away spool pin Presser foot lever Power light switch Foot control plug receptacle ux Nomenclature plate Snap in automatic buttonhole attachment
25. e Locating Locating n c groove Ve Rs Latch TE Retainer spring Shuttle Bobbin case holder Fig 3 55 8 CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS SFR a a Your sewing machine is a precision instrument designed to give you many years of troublefree sewing with minumum maintenance If you have any performance problem check the list below and you ll be able to solve the problem yourself GENERAL PROBLEMS Machine does not sew Hand wheel or clutch knob is not returned to stitching position Push in or tighten clutch see page 10 eee line cord is not connected Check plug Power light switch turned off Turn on the switch Machine jams knocks Thread is caught in shuttle Clean shuttle see page 55 Needle is damaged Replace needle see page 13 Fabric does not move Presser foot not lowered Lower presser foot Stitch length control is set at 0 Set it at 24 to 6 Feed cover plate is attached Remove feed cover plate Thread is knotted under fabric STITCHING PROBLEMS Machine skips stitches Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric See page 14 7 Fabric is a certain knit or synthetic Use Q NEEDLE m and Q FOOT w Needle is bent or blunt Replace needle see page 13 Needle is not all the way up into needle clamp See page 13 Top thread tension is too tight Decrease top thread te
26. e into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you 5 Push the needle up as far as it can go 6 Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screw driver in your accessory box 13 Needle Thread Fabric and Stitch Length Chart Study this chart to help you select the correct size needle to match your fabric and thread size NEEDLE FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE COLOR LIGHTWEIGHT Batiste Dimity 9 BROWN Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Chiffon Silks Synthetic Jerseys Fine Mercerized Cotton Fine Lace Organza Crepe as Taffeta Voile Organdy ORAS ele MEDIUMWEIGHT Cotton Cotton Blends Percale Gingham Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Shantung Pique Seersucker 50 Mercerized Cotton Satin Knits Vinyl Suitings Silk A Linen Wool Crepe Leather MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT 14 RED Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Corduroy Denim Wool Si 50 Mercerized Cotton Sailcloth Wool Flannel 16 PURPLE Mercerized Heavy Duty Gabardine Velvets Leather Silk A Polyester Core Cotton Wrap HEAVYWEIGHT Coatings Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Synthetic Heavy Twills Canvas Silk A i 16 PURPLE Decorative top stitching on a 18 GREEN types of fabric or Buttonhole Twist Q BLUE Synthetic Knits and Stretch BALL POINT Polyester Double Knits Nylon 9 BROWN Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Tricot Jersey Stretch Terry 11 ORANGE Mercerized Cotton Spandex Cire Tricot 14 RED Extra Thin Synthetic
27. e presser foot will be released to insert or remove thin or thick fabrics 3 Extra height of the presser foot can be obtained by lifting the presser foot thumb screw by finger to allow insertion of thicker material NOTE Presser foot pressure is set at the factory No adjustment is required Attach the spool pins 1 Check the accessory box for two spool pins 2 Attach the spool pins at the rear of your machine using the large screw driver Put thread on the spool pin 1 a Swing the spool pin away from you and fully to the back of the machine b Place a spool of thread on the spool pin Secure it with a suitable size spool cap which is similar to the size of the spool to ensure smooth flow of thread NOTE Remember to return the spool pin under the arm for storage 2 Attach the extra spool pin on the right end of the carrying handle when sewing with a double needle see page 6 Convert to free arm sewing Your machine has a free arm for sewing sleeves pant legs etc For free arm sewing you need to remove the extension table as follows 1 Remove the extension table by pulling it to the left NOTE Here are some of the uses of this free arm feature mend elbows and knees of garments sew in sleeves especially on small garments applique embroider hem around edges of cuffs or pant legs sew in elastic casings in skirts or pants at the waistline 2 For all other sewi
28. ght of your needle NOTE To achieve this same effect the serging stretch or overlock stretch stitch can be used with the raw edges on the left side of the needle Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to produce a narrow supple seam particularly suited to swim wear sportswear T shirts babywear in stretch fabrics and to seam or alter knitted clothes Elastic Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments 1 Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front center back and side seams 2 Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place making sure the elastic is evenly distributed Overlock Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to overcast loosely constructed knits or woven fabrics because threads lock in the middle to reinforce seams for more durability Elastic Edge Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch in preference to the overcast stretch stitch for overcasting stretch or knit fabrics where strength and flexibility are required 1 Sew as you do with the overcast stretch stitch 6 LEARNING TO SEW BUTTONHOLES eee With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes You may use the built in system or you may use the snap in automatic buttonhole attach ment system Choose the buttonhole style 1 Built in or manual buttonholes rectan gular Choose this style for wais
29. h Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector Stitch length control 12 or green range Zigzag foot Choose this stitch to sew flat overlapped seams or to decorate a finished edge on lingerie or nightwear To Sew Overlapped Seams 1 a Overlap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric b Stitch so that the stitches pierce both pieces of fabric on the left and right sides To Make a Decorative edge 1 Stitch close to the folded edge of your garment with a matching or contrasting thread to create a bold look 36 Shell Stitch Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector Presser foot Stitch length contro Zigzag foot Use this stitch to finish the edges hems sleeves and neck opening of lingerie or nightwear Form the shell stitch by sewing over the folded fabric For best results 1 You may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly 2 Allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric when it zigzags NOTE If you sew rows of shell stitches space the rows 1 2 inch apart Two types of shell stitches are built into your machine Cc Regular shell stitch which produces a tiny shell hem on lingerie and other fine garments ee Two point shell stitch to be used for bigger size of shell pattern 38 See page 17 Stretch Stitches Top thread tension control Presser foot Zigzag foot oO
30. h too tight Top stitch too loose ZIGZAG STITCHING Choose the Right Presser Foot You will need change your presser foot to match the stitch you have chosen Know what the presser feet will do Standard zigzag foot Fitted on the machine Use this foot for the general sewing with both striaght and zigzag stitching Satin stitch foot This foot is grooved to permit dense Stitching to pass under it easily Use it for appliqueing bar tacking embroidery and monogramming Buttonhole foot Use with the snap in automatic buttonhole attachment 18 Straight stitch foot Use this foot for straight stitch or straight stretch stitch The straight stitch foot will give greater control of the fabric and more even straight stitches Zipper foot This foot allows you to sew to the right or left of the zipper or close to the cord Buttonhole guide_ Use this special accessory with the zigzag foot when making built in buttonholes Mount it on to the zigzag foot Reproducing identical size buttonholes is made easier with the aid of the graduations on the guide Change the presser foot Presser Snap on presser feet foot i ee holder 1 Bring the needle to the up position 2 Raise the presser foot lever 3 Push the foot release lever and the presser foot will drop off Foot release al S 4 Place the new foot on the needle plate aligning needle holes 5 Lower the presser foot
31. ire about your Kenmore machine HAPPY SEWING Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in the space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance The model number and serial number are located on the nomenciature plate as identified on page 3 of this booklet ModelNo _ ss Serial Noo Retain these numbers for future reference THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 KNOW YOUR MACHINE Locate and identify the parts on your MACNING sisnts atx censieesewics Pee 2 3 Locate and identify the accessories 4 6 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set up the Machine ccceesseeeeeeees 7 8 Plug in the machine and switch ON the POWEF csccesserscsescescssesenenens 7 Set the foot Control ccceeeeneeeeeeee 7 Adjust the presser foot 7 Put thread on the spool pin 008 8 Convert to free arm SEWING recense 8 Prepare the Dobbin cccsseeeeseees 9 12 Load thread on the bobbin 9 10 Remove the bobbin case from the SHUE cc isncesduasanioiceniaes E 11 tnsert the bobbin into the bobbin case 12 Insert the bobbin case into the shuttle 12 Prepare the needle ccceeeeneene 13 14 Change the needle cccesseenerees 13 Needle thread fabric and stitch length CMAN teca unaa a aA 14 Prepare the top thread ecn 15 16 Thread the needle n sususssrsserrrerrrne 15 Pick up the bobbin thread
32. ng slide the table along the free arm until the pins A and B fit into the holes on the machine Prepare the bobbin Load Thread on the Bobbin om a mS ee 3 ee te rh ye Say rs A POS Y Y A A FS He Ee eg ee Pm me at Leth a Waima lem rim tio E Meret Sart Re RP Pt LIPY CN Ms OS ee SS es hoe Det St Se ee ee eae Se eee re ee Spe ay eee ey pee pe re eet Pee er Pe gd ee Sy ey Sey Pee ere CAAT EE 3 F 7 re em v sn a ee dd ki res P Pee Cell a a damp a tha Mt Disengage the clutch by turning the clutch knob toward you a b Put a spool of thread on the spool pin Draw the thread from the spool through the thread guide Wind the thread around the bobbin several times in the direction of the arrow Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Push the bobbin winder shaft to the right until it clicks b Start the machine by pressing down on the foot control NOTE The bobbin will stop turning when it is filled 5 a Push the shaft to the left b Remove the bobbin from the shaft and trim the end of the thread 6 Engage the clutch by turning the clutch knob away from you Prepare the bobbin Load Thread on the Bobbin 1 Disengage the clutch by pulling the hand wheel out Model 14571 or turning the clutch knob toward you Model 14501 2 a b 10 Put a spool of thread on the spool pin Place a suitable size spool cap over the spool Draw the thread f
33. nsion Machine is not threaded correctly See page 12 and 15 Thread is caught in shuttle Clean shuttle see page 55 Stitches are irregular Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric See page 14 Machine is not threaded correctly See page 12 and 15 Top thread tension is too loose Increase top thread tension Fabric is being pulled or pushed against machine feeding action Guide it gently Bobbin has not been wound evenly Rewind bobbin There are nicks or burrs at needle plate opening Replace needle plate or smooth burrs with extra fine Emory cloth Needle breaks Fabric is being pulled or pushed against machine feeding action Guide it gently Needle size is not correct for thread and fabric See page 14 Needlie is not all the way up into the needle clamp see page 13 Presser foot holder is not fastened securely Retighten presser foot thumb screw THREAD PROBLEMS Thread bunches Top and bobbin threads are not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam Draw both threads back under presser foot about 4 inches and hold until a few stitches are formed Needle thread breaks Machine is started too fast Start to stitch at a slow speed Machine is not threaded correctly See page 15 Top thread tension is too tight Decrease top thread tension Needle size not correct for thread and fabric See page 14
34. purpose stretch sewing seam finishing edge finishing or attaching stretch laces A good finishing stitch for nylon tricot lingerie 39 o a I Tips on Sewing Different Fabrics The chart below provides many details but When working on tweed or other multi you ll also want to remember colored bulky fabrics use one color thread l i in the bobbin another on the top Great z Soft or fine fabrics may require a backing or for repairs the patch practically dis interfacing of paper especially where appears stitches are close together When sewing knits use a strong fine thread together with Q NEEDLE m SPECIAL NOTIONS TO USE Q NEEDLE m Polyester nylon or dacron core thread Q FOOT m FABRICS USEFUL STITCHES TO USE Serging stretch Overcast stretch Overlock stretch Elastic edge stretch Elastic stretch for sewing on elastic Blind hem Three step zigzag NYLON TRICOT Mercerized thread Size 14 needle Simple zigzag Three step zigzag TERRY CLOTH OR REGULAR CORDUROY Simple zigzag Mercerized thread TERRY CLOTH Three step zigzag Polyester nylon or STRETCH Overcast stretch dacron core thread Serging stretch Q NEEDLE m Elastic edge stretch Q FOOT w Mercerized or silk thread Size 14 needle Even feed foot _ LEATHER Straight or simple zigzag
35. rd you to lower the needle into the fabric Choose this stitch to perform the following tasks Sewing a Straight Seam NOTE Use the instructions that follow as general rules for handling your machine regardless of the particular stitch you are using 1 Backtack see page 22 by beginning 1 2 inch from the beggining of the seam 2 For 5 8 inch seam line up the edge of the fabric where the seam guide is marked 3 Backtack at the end of each seam 4 a Turn the hand wheel to raise the needle to its highest position b Raise the presser foot by pushing the presser foot lever up c Pull the material toward the back or side of the machine d Use the thread cutter on the presser foot release lever to cut off excess threads Cornering Square the Corner 5 8 from the fabric edge 1 a Stop stitching your 5 8 inch seam when the fabric is even with the cornering guide cross marks b Leave the needle in the fabric 2 a Lift the presser foot b Turn the fabric so that the unstitched side is lined up with the seam guide c Lower the presser foot and stitch in the new direction Top stitching Top stitching improves the appearance of a tailored garment and at the same time holds facings in place You may want to stitch with a thread of contrasting color to your fabric 1 Set the stitch length at 8 6 2 Stitch 3 8 inch from the edge on top of the fabric
36. refully Position your fabric and lower your needle before lowering the presser foot SUITABLE FOR STRETCH FABRICS Use on stretch and knit fabrics and to repair ready made garments at stress points Basic stitch for all garment seams requiring give i e armholes crotch area etc Use also to sew center seam of men s neck ties and seams cut on the bias ee ee ee STRAIGHT STRETCH ININININ RICK RACK STRETCH RRR SMOCKING STRETCH VVVVVVV ELASTIC STRETCH VVVVVVVV OVERCAST OR ELASTIC EDGE STRETCH RNENSE SS ZS LNZNZNZNZ N OVERLOCK STRETCH STITCH AAAANA SERGING OR PINE LEAF BASIC STITCHES WITH STRETCH APPLICATIONS NV PLAIN ZIGZAG WAMAAN ALAA SHELL STITCHES A basic multi purpose stretch stitch with same usage as zigzag stitch especially for lightweight stretch fabrics A decorative stitch for use on children s clothing lingerie yokes of blouses dress bodice Use to apply elastic to lingerie or to repair readymade lingerie and replace or restitch elastic Use on sportswear where 14 seams are required Makes and finishes seams at same time Use to overcast loosely constructed knits or woven fabrics Use for overcasting fabrics that ravel or fray easily and for seams that need a great deal of stretch i e swimwear other sportswear girdles Also good looking Use for all
37. ric the top thread tension should be balanced within the orange zone between 2 and 4 on the thread tension control lf when you start to sew you find that the stitching is irregular you will need to adjust the tension control 1 Lower the presser foot lever 2 a If the threads are locking on the top surface with the top thread lying flat the top thread is too tight Slide the tension control to the left lower numbers b If the reverse is happening with the threads on the underside of the fabric the top thread is too loose Slide the tension control to the right higher numbers Zigzag stitching The top thread may appear on the underside depending upon the thread fabric type of stitch and sewing speed but the bobbin thread must NEVER appear on the top of the fabric Adjust the bobbin thread tension NOTE You will rarely need to adjust the bobbin thread tension Most adjustments should be made on the top thread 1 If the tension is well balanced but the seam puckers badly loosen the bobbin and top thread tension 2 a Insert the small screw dirver into the screw on the side of the bobbin case b Make only a small adjustment each time i e quarter to half a turn to the right to increase tension or to the left to decrease tension NOTE Remember the original position of the screw slot to put it back for normal sewing STRAIGHT STITCHING Well balanced Decrease Increase tension Top stitc
38. rom the spool through the thread guide Wind the thread around the bobbin several times in the direction of the arrow Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Push the bobbin winder latch against the bobbin until it clicks Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only Model 14571 b Start the machine by pressing down on the foot control NOTE The bobbin will automatically stop turning when it is filled 5 Remove the bobbin from the shaft and trim the end of the thread 6 Engage the clutch by pushing the hand wheel back in toward the machine Model 14571 or turning the clutch knob away from you Model 14501 Remove the Bobbin Case from the Shuttle 1 Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left 2 a Open the bobbin access cover by eee pulling it down at the notch i b Use your forefinger and thumb to pull open the latch on the bobbin case c Puli the bobbin case out of the shuttle Wo Bobbin case SS A N G cover 3 Turn the bobbin case upside down and the bobbin will drop out of the case oo Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case 1 Hold the bobbin case by the latch with the locating groove downward 2 Place the bobbin case onto the shuttle keeping the thread pulled toward you NOTE Be sure the notch in the shuttle fits into the groove of the bobbin case It will click when it is in place 12 1 Inser
39. s UOH aa 38 43 Adjusting stitch length secesenes 38 Where to use which stretch stitch PCNECK CHAN saannin araa 39 Tips on sewing different fabrics 40 Straight stretch stitch ccseesueeees 41 Rick rack stretch stitch 0c0ee 41 Smocking stretch stitch cceeee 41 Overcast stretch stitch cceceeees 42 Serging or pine leaf stretch stitch 42 Elastic stretch Stitch cceeeeneeeeees 42 Overlock stretch stitch c cccsseeeeees 43 Elastic edge stretch stitch senres 43 LEARN TO SEW BUTTONHOLES Choose the buttonhole style 44 Manual method ss seccsscsenssensenes 45 46 Built in Method cccceeeeueeeeeen ees 47 49 Adjust the stitch width seese 47 Adjust the stitch length cccsseeees 47 Corded buttonholes a variation of the built in buttonhole 200 49 Buttonhole attachment system 50 53 Set up the machine 51 52 Make the buttonhole ccscceenseees 53 CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Change the sewing light bulb 54 Clean your machine secese 54 55 Clean the feed dogs cscsesesreceeeenees 54 Clean the shuttle ccceccseeeseeeeeens 55 CHECK CHART FOR PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS General problems cscseessevsseevers 56 Stitching problems ccccecseeeeee 56 57 Thread problems cccsseseeseeeueeeuenes 57 1 KNOW YOUR MACHINE Locate and i
40. sity turn the control toward gr ma Ei AA y pes ni Make the Buttonhole 1 a Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Mount the buttonhole guide onto the presser foot with the letter F at the front so that the rear edge of the presser foot is at the end of the guide c Insert the garment under the guide with the buttonhole marking running toward you NOTE Line up the markings on the guide with the length you have marked to help you stitch accurately Markings are engraved in inches Set the stitch selector at Sew 4 to 6 stitches Stop sewing at the left stitch a Oo 3 a Set the stitch selector at 1j l Sew forward until you reach the front marking of your buttonhole Stop sewing at the left stitch eg i Set the stitch selector at i Sew 4 to 6 stitches Stop sewing at the right stitch oof 5 a Set the stitch selector at ill b Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole c Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener in your accessory box Corded Buttonholes a variation of the built in buttonhole Corded buttonholes are a stronger variation of the regular buttonhole You need to obtain filler cord crotchet thread or buttonhole twist 1 Cut a length of cord about twice the length of the buttonhole guide 2 Fold the cord in half 3 Hook the cord at its mid point on the spur of the guide
41. structions Cornering Guides 4 PRACTICE GOOD HABITS a a A Before you begin to sew 1 Check the needle b Do you have 3 4 inches pulled a Is it inserted properly toward the back of the machine See page 13 NOTE Hold the threads for the first b Is it the correct size for your fabric 3 to 4 stitches of the seam to See the chart on page 14 keep them from tangling under c Is it threaded properly the fabric See page 15 3 Check the stitch controls and presser d Is it straight and sharp foot NOTE Many synthetic fabrics dull a Are the color codes on the controls your needle quickly Be sure matched correctly to replace needles often b Do you have the correct presser 2 Check the threads foot for the project and for the type of stitch you have chosen a Are they both on top of the needle plate surface When you begin to sew 1 Test the machine on a scrap of d Backtack at the beginning and end material of each seam See page 22 a Always begin your first stitches by e Finish sewing with the needle at its turning the hand wheel toward you highest position except cornering to lower the needle into the fabric f Guide the fabric gently Do not b Run the machine at a slow even pull The machine will feed the speed The more pressure you material at its own speed apply to the foot control the faster g Always turn the hand wheel toward the machine will stitch c Adjust the tension
42. t the bobbin into the bobbin case with the thread running counter clockwise 2 Pull the thread through the slit in the bobbin case 3 a Pull the thread underneath the flat tension spring It will clock when it is in place b Pull 3 to 4 inches of the thread from the bobbin case 3 Fold the latch to the right to lock the bobbin case in place Prepare the Needle Use the correct Kenmore needles The size of your needie should match the size of the thread and both should match the fabric Kenmore needles are color coded by size for your convenience See the Needle Thread Fabric and Stitch Length Chart NOTE 1 Never use a bent or dull needle 2 if you do not have a Kenmore needle use this illustration to be sure your needle is right size A Distance from the top to the eye of Eye the needle should be this exact length Q NEEDLE m A SPECIAL FEATURE A Q NEEDLE m with SS eae a blue shank is included in your accessory box This needle is designed especially for knits and synthetic fabrics If your machine skips stitches when sewing these fabrics you may want to use a Q FOOT m in addition to your Q NEEDLE m See the optional accessories on page 6 Change the needle 1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you 2 Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you 3 Remove the needle by pulling it downward 4 Insert the new needl
43. tband cuffs belt slots or where you will need only one or two buttons Round end buttonholes No 45195 45196 Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses blouses vests jackets or coats Template Keyhole buttonholes Template No 45197 Choose this style for tailored vests jackets coats or any time you need more room for button shank Tips on buttonholing Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used Tear paper away after stitch ing if it is used For heavier weight fabrics loosen your top thread tension slightly Manual Method Top thread tension control Stitch selector 4 2 4 a 6 a 8 See page 17 Presser foot Satin stitch foot 1 a Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b insert it under the presser foot with the left side of buttonhole under the needle Diameter of button plus 1 8 2 a Make sure the needle swings to the right and pierce the fabric at point A b Stitch to the end of the marking and stop with the needle in the fabric on the right side of stitching point B 45 46 Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric Turn the stitch selector to the fourth narrow zigzag position Lower the presser
44. thread through the eye of the needle toward the back of the machine 15 i Pick up the Bobbin Thread 1 Raise the presser foot lever 2 a Hold the top thread loosely in your left hand b With your right hand rotate the hand wheel toward you until the take up lever has come to the top again 3 a Pull the top thread with your left hand to bring up the bobbin thread b Pull the bobbin thread until the end comes through the opening of the needle plate 4 Pull both threads under the presser foot toward the back of the machine If you did not pick up the bobbin thread with the above steps check your method with the questions below 1 Is the thread through the eye of the needle front to back 2 Isn t the thread tangled around the needle 3 Is the bobbin inserted in its case with the thread running counter clockwise 4 Is the thread pulled underneath the bobbin case tension spring 5 Isn t the thread in the bobbin tangled 6 Are there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming out of the bobbin case After checking all of the questions above repeat steps 1 to 4 16 Check the Thread Tension Adjust the top thread tension Straight stitching The good looking appearance of your stitching is largely determined by the balanced tension of both top and bobbin threads The tension is well balanced when these two threads lock in the middle of layers of fabric you are sewing NOTE For most fab
45. through to the surface of the fabric 6 Using a medium speed stitch along the marked outline guiding the fabric carefully by hands p Feed cover plate 32 Button sewing Attach the feed cover plate see page 20 Use clear tape to fix the button on your fabric before stitching NOTE When sewing a flat button place a pin between the holes so your button will be loose enough for easy buttoning Align the two holes of the button with the slot of the presser foot Lower the presser foot Turn the hand wheel by hand until the needle point is just above the button Adjust the stitch width control so the needle will enter one hole of the button Turn the hand wheel again so the needle will enter the second hole Readjust the stitch width if necessary Stitch several times Leave 2 inches of thread after stitching Pull these threads under the fabric and tie securely Three step Zigzag Top thread tension control Stitch width control Stitch selector See page 17 Presser foot Stitch length control Zigzag foot 12 or green range NOTE Three step zigzag takes three short stitches where regular zigzag takes one Choose this stitch to mend a tear or to overcast a raw edge To Mend 1 Put a piece of fabric under the tear to be mended 2 Stitch so that the fabric on both sides of the tear is caught by the points of the stitch To Overcast
46. ttonhole range BR Stitch Width Control Model 14501 14502 14571 14572 only The width of all stitches produced on this machine except the straight stitch can be made narrower or wider by adjusting the stitch width control To decrease or increase the width of a stitch slide the stitch width control from 1 5 The higher the number the wider the stitch When straight stitching set this control at 1 to achieve uniform straight stitches NOTE Study the colored sections on this control These are recommended ranges of stitch width and color coded to the stitches pictured on the Stitch Selector Besides these three controls there are other controls on your machine as follows Reverse Stitch Lever Push down and hold the lever to reverse the direction of your stitches The machine will go forward again when you release the lever BACKTACKING Secure your seams by taking the first few stitches in reverse Then allow the machine Reverse stitch lever to go forward This is called backtacking Reverse the machine at the end of your seams as well Seam Guide Lines The needle plate is marked with seam guide lines to help you stitch straight seams The standard 5 8 lines are bolder for your convenience The dimensions indicate the distance from the straight stitch needle position The cross lines are cornering guides to help you make square corners See page 26 for detailed cornering in
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