Cam - Metolius
Contents
1. SkN 1100 1 4 2 419 0 0 39 0 59 10 0 15 0 mm 5 1100 1 5 430 1 0 49 0 71 12 5 18 0 mm 8 kN 1800 1 8 oz 50g 2 0 62 0 89 15 5 22 5 mm 2250 2 002 570 3 0 74 1 04 18 5 26 5 mm 10kN 2250 2 1 oz 59g 4 0 93 1 32 23 5 33 5 mm 2250 2 4 oz 680 Ultralight Offset TCU 00 0 34 0 52 8 6 13 2 mm 5 1100 1 6 45g 0 0 44 0 65 111 165 5 1100 1 7 479 1 057 080 14 4 20 3 8 1800 1 8 oz 52g 2 0 67 0 97 17 0 24 6 mm 10kN 2250 2 0 0z 59g 3 0 85 1 19 21 5 30 2 mm 10kN 2250 2 2 oz small 1 65 2 50 42 0 63 4 mm 12 2700 IbF 6 5 oz 1840 medium 2 07 3 60 52 5 91 5 mm 2 2700 9 0 oz 2550 large 2 62 4 67 66 5 118 5 mm 12 kN 270010 11 oz 3120 Ultralight Fat Cam 2 0 62 0 89 15 5 22 5 mm 2250 2 502 720 3 0 74 1 04 18 5 26 5 mm 2250 2 602 750 4 0 93 1 32 235 335 mm 2250 lbf 3 0 840 5 1 01 1 56 280 39 5 mm 2250 3 5 02 98g 6 1 28 1 89 325 480 mm 2250108 3 90 111g 7 1 57 2 26 400 57 5 2250 4 8 1360 8 1 91 2 817 48 5 71 5 mm TOKN 2250108 5 40 15402. M44 TF lt gt A EI Cams Using Metolius Cams Spring loaded camming devices are complex pieces of equipment A basic understanding of how cams work is critical to finding safe reliable placements After you ve studied this guide practice placing cams in a safe venue at ground level before you trust your life to a cam placement This process can teach you a lot but written guidelines and practice are no substitute for qualified instruction We strongly recommend that you learn to place cams under the supervision of a certified guide How cams work When you fall on camming unit three basic factors decide whether it will hold or pull out how well the cams grip the walls of the placement friction how hard the cams push out against the walls of the placement outward force and how well the rock on the walls of the placement hold up to the pressure exerted by the cams rock strength Illustration 1 Spring loaded camming devices work by translating downward force into outward force When a load is applied camming unit cam lobes respond by pushing out against the walls of the placement Illustration 1 When the downward force is first applied there is a brief instant during which the frictional forces between the cam lobes and the rock are the only thing keeping the cam from pulling out If the unit holds during this instant the out ward force of the cam lobes pushing against the walls of th
3. bout it now About rock strength Rock fails in 2 basic ways either a relatively large piece breaks off or the surface layer is crushed under the pressure of the cam lobe allowing the cam to track out You must assess the integrity of the rock and choose the soundest possible location for your placements Look for fractures in and around the walls of potential placement that could denote weakness as well as pebbles crystals or micro flakes that could snap off Be extremely suspicious of placements hehind flakes or blocks As we said before cams exert a tremendous amount of outward force in a fall so they can expand or even lever off even seemingly solid flakes or blocks Passive protection is often a better choice behind flakes or blocks Mitigate the danger of rock failure by spreading the force between the cam lobes and the rock over as large an area as possible always use the largest cam lobe surface area that will fit in any given placement In other words choose the largest unit that will fit the placement and always opt for a 4 cam unit over a 3 cam unit if it will fit if the placement is deep enough to accommodate a Fat Cam even better Placing cams First you have to find a suitable placement Cams work best in nearly parallel sided cracks Illustration 2 If crack flares in any direction it makes any potential placement much less reliable If the crack flares inward or outward too much it will prevent
4. camming unit or any of your gear heed your instincts and retire it If it is a Metolius product you can send it to us for inspection You should destroy retired gear to prevent any chance of future use Never alter or modify your cams in any way Look at the teeth on your cams If they are worn unevenly or have been flattened in hard fall it probably means that the cam has lost its shape and is unsafe use Check for slop between the cams and the axle There should be some free play but too much play indicates that the axle holes in the cams have become oval Compare the free play a new cam of the same size to get an idea of how much is acceptable Inspect the cable body carefully It is okay to tweak the cable to straighten it after a fall but if any of the wire strands that make up the cable have been broken or severely kinked the unit needs to be retired Look at the springs and cam stops which can break if the unit is improperly placed and then loaded Also take a look at the axle It s possible to bend the axle of a small unit in hard fall in which case it needs to be retired The most likely places to find damage to your units are the trigger wires or the sling Straighten the trigger wires if they become bent Try to get the wires completely straight so all the cams lobes retract at the same rate The cam lobes should line up evenly when fully retracted or fully open Keep an eye on the swaged joint on the t
5. e placement take over most of the work If the outward force is sufficient the cam continues to hold A tremendous amount of outward force is required to hold cam in place against the downward force generated by a fall If the rock isn t strong enough to withstand the pressure it fails and the cam pulls out You must be able to assess these variables effectively in every cam placement you make About friction All cam lobe materials currently on the market have about the same coefficient of friction Therefore the friction component is determined by the texture and composition of the rock in which the cam is to be placed Soft porous or crystalline rock types such as sandstone or granite offer more friction than very compact or smooth rock like quartzite However soft rock is more susceptible to breakage or pulverization of the surface layer Dirty wet or icy rock offers almost no friction and cam placements in these conditions should never be trusted passive protection is much more reliable in these conditions About outward force Outward force is determined by the cam angle used by the manufacturer A smaller cam angle generates more outward force It should be obvious by now that more outward force is better However as long as you have placed the cam correctly in an appropriately shaped placement you don t have to worry about outward force You already made that judgment when you bought your cams There s nothing you can do a
6. e rope or a sling directly through the cam sling Clip into the open loop at the bottom of the sling Never clip into the sling above the locator bar tack into the cam body above the spreader bar or trigger It is okay to clip directly into the tubing covered loop of cable in aid climbing situations but move the carabiner back into the sling once you have passed the placement and are relying on it for protecting a fall Clipping into any place other than the bottom of the sling and loading the cam will result in failures well below the rated strength Life Span of Cams It is nearly impossible to predict the lifespan of camming units because it is dictated by wear and damage rather than by time Under moderate usage with no exposure to salt water environments corrosive agents severe falls or damage cam bodies can easily last 10 years and the slings can last up to 5 years However any of the aforementioned factors can reduce their life span dramatically You must inspect your cams frequently and take personal responsibility for evaluating their condition and retiring unsafe units You should destroy retired gear prevent any chance of its future use If you are ever in any doubt about the safety of your cams return them to Metolius for inspection Care and Maintenance of Camming Units The first and most important step in cam maintenance is inspection Inspect your cams frequently If you have any reason to doubt the integrity of a
7. ertified All cams are individually tested to half their rated strength size range strength weight 00 0 34 0 47 8 5 12 0 mm SKN 1100 lbf 2 202 62g 0 0 39 0 59 10 0 15 0 mm 5 1100 2 302 659 1 0 49 0 71 12 5 18 0 8 180010 2402 680 2 0 62 0 89 155 225 mm 2250 2 502 700 3 0 74 1 04 18 5 26 5 mm 2250 lbf 2 9 oz 820 4 0 93 1 32 23 5 33 5 mm 2250 3 202 900 5 1 01 1 567 28 0 39 5 mm 2250 lbf 3 5 oz 98g 6 1 28 1 89 325 480 mm 2250 3 9 oz 1100 Offset Master Cam 00 0 0 34 0 52 8 6 13 2 mm SKN 1100 lbf 2 207 63g 0 1 0 44 0 65 11 1 16 5 mm SkN 1100 2307 669 1 2 057 080 14 4 20 3 8 kN 1800 lbf 2407 70g 2 3 0 67 0 97 17 0 24 6 mm 2250 2707 799 3 4 0 85 1 19 21 5 30 2 2250 3 0 870 4 5 1 09 1 56 28 0 39 5 2250 3 3 0 940 00 034 047 85 120 SKN 1100 lbf 1 607 450 0 0 39 0 59 10 0 15 0 mm SkN 1100 1701 48g 1 0 49 0 71 12 5 18 0 mm 8 kN 1800 lbf 1 9 oz 54g if 0 62 0 89 15 5 22 5 mm 2250 2307 640 3 0 74 1 04 18 5 26 5 2250 Ibf 2407 680 4 0 93 1 32 23 5 33 5 mm 2250 2707 779 5 1 01 1 56 28 0 39 5 10kN 2250 lbf 3 0 860 6 1 28 1 89 32 5 48 0 2250 3 507 980 7 1 57 2 26 40 0 57 5 mm 10kN 22508 4 50z 127g 8 1 91 2 81 48 5 71 5 2250 5 307 1500 Ultralight TCU CCS 00 034 047 85 120
8. ize by making sure that the green Range Finder dots are lined up where the cam lobes touch the walls of the placement Illustration 6 Yellow dot alignment is okay too Illustration 7 but you must exercise more caution with the placement because the cam will be less stable hence more prone to walking and it will have less expansion range left to accommodate walking to a wider position If the cam you choose aligns in the yellow zone the next larger size will align perfectly in the green zone Use that cam instead if it s still on your rack Never use a placement in the red zone Illustration 8 unless it s the only placement available 2279 A Place the cam as as possible in the crack without making it difficult to retrieve The rock near the front edge of the crack is much more likely to break than the rock deeper inside The insides of most cracks are full of undulations flares and a thousand other surface irregularities Find the best spot for the cam lobes to nest don t just plug the cam in and go Make sure that the all cam lobes are retracted evenly Illustration 9 Off center cam placements Illustration 10 are less stable and more prone to walking Because they have flexible bodies Metolius cams can be placed in horizonta cracks However whenever a cam body or sling is loaded over an edge it will sacrifice some strength j
9. parts but it will take longer to dry before becoming a waterproof dirt repelling shield Metolius Cam Lube is patented self cleaning lubricant When dirt attaches itself to the fully dried film small particles of the lube will break away carrying dirt with it MCL keeps parts working smoothly and helps them last longer MCL is waterproof after it has dried completely If you do not completely understand any of the above or if you have questions contact Metolius at 541 382 7585 or info metoliusclimbing com Markings The following markings may be found on Metolius cams 0082 Indicates that the unit meets the requirements of Council Directive 89 686 EEC relating to personal protective equipment UIAA Indicates that the cam is UIAA certified Metolius Climbing Name of the manufacturer naera a Metolius logo Master Cam Supercam Ultralight Power Cam Ultralight TCU Trademark name of the product Size Designation Indicates the size of the unit specified as 00 8 or S M L Date Code Indicates the date of manufacture Strength Rating Indicates the minimum breaking strength of the unit specified in kN Metolius cams conform to EN 12276 1998 the CE standard for Mountaineer ing equipment Frictional anchors Certification and monitoring performed by APAVE SUDEUROPE BP 193 13322 Marseille Cedex 16 France Notified body number 0082 Fat Cams Offset Cams and L Supercams are not currently CE c
10. r the nylon will deteriorate with the passage of time If in doubt send them to us for inspection Store your cams in a cool dry place away from U V light sources When transporting cams observe the same precautions as you would for storage clean your cams heat water in a pan until it is near the boiling point Swish the heads in the hot water while working the trigger bar being very careful not to burn yourself Use a stiff bristled brush to clean thoroughly all around the head especially in the springs and inside the cam lobes The Metolius M 16 brush is perfect for this task Depending upon how dirty your cams are and what lubricants you have used in the past they may require several cleanings work all the dirt and old lube out from the axle Using compressed air to blow the cams out while still wet can help Dry the cams thoroughly and then lubricate No amount of lube will restore good action to a dirty cam so make sure your cams are cleaned thoroughly Now you re ready to lube your cams and restore like new action Shake Metolius Cam Lube vigorously at room temperature to mix all solids Use body heat to warm MCL if used in colder outdoor climates Apply MCL to the cam pivots and springs and work it in until the smooth action is fully restored Wipe off excess lube with a rag then let MCL fully dry several minutes to an hour For optimum penetration apply MCL to cams at or above 40 F 5 C MCL can be applied to wet
11. rigger wire It is the most likely place for the wire to fray If the sling or the stitching show major signs of abrasion or if any of the stitching is broken the sling must be replaced Metolius will replace slings trigger wires on our cams for nominal fee We don t offer repair kits for the triggers because we like to get damaged or worn cams back in house for a thorough inspection Care of your cams is a simple process Keep them clean and dry If they get wet don t just throw them in the closet until the next trip Dry them off and re lube them as soon as possible If your cams are exposed to a salt water environment wash them with fresh water and dry them thoroughly as soon as possible If they get corroded you can use steel wool or a Scotch Brite pad to remove the corrosion Keep your cams away from any corrosive substances or solvents Acids are exceptionally bad for cam slings and other nylon climbing equipment Even fumes from a car battery can reduce the strength of your slings to the point that they will fail under body weight If your cams come into contact with any corrosive substances or solvents have the slings replaced immediately If you have any doubt contact us to see if the corrosive substance could have compromised the metal parts of the unit Replace the slings if you see any signs of damage or discoloration after a severe fall or after five years Even though your cam slings may show no significant signs of wea
12. the individual cam lobes from making sufficient contact to hold Illustration 3 If the crack flares downward too much the cams will no longer generate enough outward force and friction to hold Illustration 4 If the crack flares upward too much the cams will walk until the unit is tipped out and useless Illustration 5 Look for long sections of crack that have minimal variation in crack width so the cam won t tip out if it walks or better yet look for placements with constrictions both above and below the unit that will limit the movement of the cam Remember to assess rock quality Any piece of protection is only as strong as the rock in which itis placed Illustration 2 Once you ve found a placement you need to select the correct size cam from your rack Ideally you will select the largest size cam that will fit without getting stuck Cams should not be placed near the wide end of their expansion range When a unit is loaded it expands as the slack is removed from the system and the cams and rock compress A nearly tipped out cam won t have enough expansion left accommodate this process A loose cam is also more prone to walking and has little range left to adjust Now retract the cam lobes place the Illustration 6 head of the cam into the placement align the stem of the unit in the expected direction of the potential load and release the trigger Verify that you have chosen the best s
13. ust like any other piece of gear Inspect your cams carefully after using them in horizontal placement When placing cams in horizontals always place the outboard cam lobes on the bottom Illustration 11 This will result in much stronger and more stable placement Illustration 11 Now imagine falling on the placement Give the sling a tug in the direction it would be loaded in a fall The unit should not shift or rotate If it does re align it and try again If you fail to align the camming unit with the direction of the potential fall when the unit is loaded the stem will rotate in the direction of the load The cams will either walk often to an undesirable position to allow the entire unit to re align or the cams will be loaded unevenly making the unit much more prone to breaking the rock or tracking out When placing a cam always align it in the direction it will be pulled in a fall This goes for belay anchors as well as running anchors Once a good placement has been established it is critical to control movement of the cam as you continue to climb Tight placements are less prone to walking and have more expansion range left to accommodate movement Cams can move even in ideal looking placements so anticipate how the cam might move and extend it with runners place a piece in opposition or counterweight the piece with extra gear if necessary Always clip into cams with a carabiner Never thread th
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