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Pattern Viewer

1. IS maximum 5 Hip Circumference Measured over the largest part of your bottom thighs at elastic 6 Bust Span Horizontal distance between bust apexes also called bust bridge 3 Patterns and Printing 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Measure along bust elastic Bust Height Measure from apex of one breast around back of neck to apex of other breast Divide the result by 2 Waist Height Measure from lower edge of waist elastic straight up to breast apex around back of neck to other breast apex and down to lower edge of waist elastic Divide the result by 2 Back Lengih Put on a necklace or drape a piece of string around your neck This marks the measurement location on the back of your neck Measure from center of back neck to lower edge of waist elastic Back Width Hang your arms relaxed at your sides The measurement is taken horizontally between shoulder blades i e from sleeve seam to sleeve seam from and to the point where your arm meets your body but not to the armpit about 4 10cm below the neck Shoulder length Measure from bottom of neck to shoulder tip Shoulder tip is found when you raise the arm to horizontal position and feel where there is hollow pit between shoulder and arm bones Hold your arm horizontal if necessary to find this point Waist Abdomen Measure vertically from lower edge of waist elastic to lower edge of abdomen elastic Measure at front center Waist Hip Meas
2. Fie Drs Edt View Settings Help r E A fet aig sertin ORTHO 5 yore More l l 15 Now go ahead and print the pattern you can click on pages in the Print Preview window to turn off pages you don t need to print and put the pages together 3 Patterns and Printing 16 Cut out the pattern When you get to the side front and side back pieces remember to add the seam allowances you ll be switching back and forth between the two sets of lines The sleeve belongs to the second color in this case red so follow the red lines around the whole armhole area Then just merge back to the black lines to finish cutting the piece according to the original vest pattern A Pattemmaker MOMAMEPAT EN pepe r Fie Derw bi Wie Sethegn Hie BE HE Jee marase pe hr ons JAJAL Be gi aL By fide ce The blue outline shows where you ll cut to combine the patterns 17 Now the sleeve from the blouse will fit the armhole of the vest Using Measurement Tables You can save your measurements in a table that can be reused in other macros This saves you from having to type in the measurements each time a macro is run Each garment collection comes with a measurement template that demonstrates which measurements are required This template has a file extension of mmt or Master Measurement Table Measuring Note These measuring instructions apply only to the pre designed garments from Finnish designe
3. From the Open File dialog box select a measurement table and click the Open button The measurements from this table will be plugged into the macro NOTE You will see only those measurement tables are shown who can be connected to this macro When you do not see a measurement table be sure that you have saved one of this designer Entering Measurements Manually 6 Appendix Using Windows dialogs instead of LaunchPad Vleet Crounisence Hesir pat atthe siyi Lape The macro will prompt you to select a measurement table but if you do not want to use one click the Skip button to close the Open File dialog box The macro will then display a dialog box into which you can enter your measurements Some macros may have two dialog boxes for measurements Fill these in from your measurement chart Remember to use decimal numbers so 8 3 4 inches is 8 75 inches and so forth Use the Fraction Conversion Chart for help Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right spaces When you are ready click OK or press the lt ENTER gt key 5 While the macro is running the mouse pointer icon turns into an hourglass You may have to wait for the macro to run especially if you do not have a fast computer or if the macro you are using is particularly complicated You will know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the prompt Command appears on the status bar IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE PATTE
4. ae ou can use the Explorer tree to see exactly where s You te saving the file If you re really feeling adventurous you can create your own focus picture to go along with your new file The requirements are e the image must be in jpg format This could be a line drawing or even a photo of the finished garment e maximum dimensions are 250x250 pixels e the image must have exactly the same name as the pattern other than the jpg file extension e jit must be located in the same folder as the pat file See also LaunchPad view options Folders and file organization SAVE command LaunchPad Interface LaunchPad view options The LaunchPad give you a lot of flexibility in how you locate and view your files In the file area you can choose between different icon sizes much like the options in the standard Windows Explorer Z Select a garment to open BEE Collections Look in Designers a La 1 Select a designer Colection mwa Ni ae ed H 2 Select a a T Collection ey el Big Dog JKSmith Leena Tangled Diva Designs Patterns Three Easy Steps 1 Select a designer 2 Select a garment collection 3 Select a pattern Show Explorer tree File name z wee Large icons Look no 2 Leena You can also choose to view the Windows Explorer tree or keep it hidden in the simple view With the Explorer tree visible files can be locat
5. Open a file The LaunchPad helps you find patterns from the garment collections as well as saved patterns that you ve made Click the Open file icon The folder Patterns where all the saved pattern files are stored opens of Select a fle to open Tour user tab is Ha TeeeShit pat automatically A wes Coed T cis selected File paat File be Putter Fies pat Cancel Select the file you want then click the Open button Saved pattern files have a standardized focus picture and display any comments you wrote when you saved the file See also LaunchPad view options Folders and file organization OPEN command 2 Learning the Basics Save a file When you want to save a pattern file you ll use the LaunchPad Save window It is very similar to the other LaunchPad windows space for a file name and description a focus picture and the list of files and folders The Notes area will list the style options you chose and the measurements that were used Focus picture confirms the type of file that you re saving show files as 5 Click this icon icons orlist J to create a _ details new folder Shows style options and Measurements used Click in the test area to Bated on Fitting bodes sloper add replace with your s own comments Bodice Siye Process ime to shoulder Type a file name Show Explores tree File pame Fie bpe Patten Fies Fpa sel
6. The styles are illustrated in the dialog boxes to indicate what the designer had in mind with each option Choose your preference for each option and then click the Next button or the Done button when you come to the last option SLEEVE LENGTH hoe SLEEVE LENGTH G Long R C Shot AT 7 SLEEVE LENGTH Back SLEEVE LENGTH long Short ae S If you change your mind you can go back to a previous page and make a different selection Note The style option pictures do not show a cumulative representation of your choices throughout the macro Each set of images is only intended to illustrate the differences of that specific option For example consider the graphics above If you had chosen v neck on the previous page you should not be alarmed when these pictures depict a jewel neckline because this particular option page is only for choosing sleeve length When you finish the style choices your pattern will reflect your selections even though the option pictures do not 3 Patterns and Printing Measurement pictures After you choose style options it s time to enter measurements Each measurement is accompanied by an illustration which shows you exactly where to measure plus some explanatory text BASIC BODICE Replace the default numbers with your own measurements then click the OK button Use
7. and click the Program Settings tab Click in the Offset Lines check box to turn this option on or off N Offset Lines i Tita E sals ae Note Objects drawn with offset lines remain that way even when you change the setting on the Configure form 4 Going Further See also OFFSET command Configure Configure Defaults Menus and dialog boxes This section covers several other menu and dialog box options that you can customize in Configure or Configure defaults Choose LaunchPad vs Windows dialogs One of the most fundamental choice in PatternMaker 7 5 is the option of using the new LaunchPad interface This new feature has been carefully designed to help you easily locate your files and pre designed garments and save your pattern files without worrying about losing them The LaunchPad interface features a focus picture for every file and explanatory text for all pre designed garments You can also save comments along with your own pattern files The LaunchPad interface is active by default If you would prefer not to use it you can turn it off by marking the Use Windows Browsers checkbox on the Configure or Configure Defaults form If the box is checked the standard Windows dialog boxes are used instead of the LaunchPad windows JL E DIE 0 fee Ve Windows Browsers a sie Dilsa l es eee See also LaunchPad interface Configure Configure Defaults Show hide Start form The Start form offers a quick way to choose
8. heed Files PM User Click this icon to create 4 new folder icons or list details Shows style options and Measurements used Click in the test area to add replace with your own Comments pat ICiestedon 3712 2010 Ested on Filing bodce sloper Bodice Siye Process ime to shoulder Meck Cre 15 453 Bust Cie 37 795 Wait Cic 30 703 lla bdomen Cie 37 402 Type a file w hame i Show Explores Iree File parma Fie bpe Paten Faes Foa Comel You can use the Explorer tree to see exactly where you re saving the file Pattern files have names that end in PAT A pattern file can be opened again later and printed If the file already exists a backup file will be made Its file name extension will be BAK SAVE AS command The SAVE AS command saves the current drawing with a new file name while leaving the current file unchanged Use this to save your new work without erasing your old work Procedure 1 2 3 Select Save As from the File menu The file browser opens The LaunchPad interface automatically saves files in a designated location If you need to save your file in a different place click the Show Explorer Tree checkbox and navigate to the new location Type a description for your file in the text field This can be anything you want the type of garment the style options you us
9. 6 Appendix Using Windows dialogs instead of LaunchPad e Enter your name and replace the default numbers with your own bi rara cmd T aie hack Cipi Mace aouri kas DIA SF roih i he brig e Save the new table with your name g i PatternMaker Personal Files MeasureTables v 4 Organize v New folder A Ji Personal Files Name Date modified Type dJ Definitions J Designers di Grade di Hotkeys di Installations di Licenses di Measure P MeasurePictures di MeasureTables Patterns E n File name Save as type Measurement Table mtb hd Hide Folders E Leena_women_32 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM E Leena_women_34 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM Ej Leena_women_36 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM Ej Leena_women_38 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM Ej Leena_women_40 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM E Leena_women_42 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM E Leena_women_44 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM Ej Leena_women_46 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM Ej Leena_women_48 mtb 4 20 2011 4 32 AM PatternM all E4 p See also Using Measurement Tables 6 2 MACRO command The MACRO command runs a macro Macros are small programs that run inside PatternMaker to create basic blocks or complete patterns Before you run a macro set up a personal measurement table Procedure 1 Click on the Macro icon or click Macro on the File menu 2 A dialog box will ask you to select a file Each m
10. Edt View Settings Help EEO n ke jln perm fea pe s s J J Fi j f A y The bluish line shows the path from the origin to the destination 12 Repeat steps 8 11 to move the blouse side back piece on top of the vest side back Use the waist points to align the two pieces Now your pattern should look like this pe Pattermensker MOMAME PAT Q A Fie Drs Edt View Settings Help EE Eh het me esnein none e 1 00 pardi Using the pre designed garments 13 If you didn t enter a seam allowance when you ran the macros this is a good time to add it OFFSET omen to eyeing except the side front and side back pieces y Pattereenaker NONAME PAT l S pp dea amt s File Drs Edt View e n EE e Lael 22A NEAREST 2 16 porch Dhangedihioct 14 After the seam allowance is added you might have to MOVE the pieces apart so that the lines don t overlap The seam allowance and the original pattern piece are two separate objects so be sure to click on both when you select which objects to move If the Snap to Endpoint gets in your way turn it off with Snap Off or lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt Also consider turning on the page grid lt F12 gt to see if any page intersections fall at inconvenient places on the pattern pieces or if you can move pieces to make more efficient use of the paper Remember that you ll be ignoring the lower part of the blouse pattern shaded area below A Pattereenaker NOMAME PAT inn zz ca
11. Fabric Width enter the width of fabric you wish to use If your pattern pieces will be laid out on double layers of fabric enter half the fabric width in the Bolt Width field Example You are using 60 fabric but intend to fold it in half for the fabric layout Enter 30 for the bolt width See also Show Hide Yardage Grid Estimating Fabric Yardage Configure Configure Defaults Set background drawing color This setting changes the drawing area from white to black The default is white but you may find the colored vertices easier to see against a black background Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab If you only see a few options on the form click the Advanced button at the bottom Then click in the Use White Background check box to turn this option on or off See also Configure Configure Defaults 4 Going Further Moving the command line The default configuration of PatternMaker has the blue command line positioned at the bottom of the screen F7 PatternMaker Ee File Draw Edit Points View Symbol Grade Settings Help lt a x x Leyen 17 73 951 in NONE 0 00 yad i Hore menu bar status bar drawing area If you wish you can by doubleclicking at the command line move the command line to the top of the screen right under the Status bar Some users find it easier to keep an eye on
12. From the drop down list select the printer you want to use If you want to install a new printer you must do so prior to this step See your printer manual or Windows manual for details on how to do this When you select a printer your choice stays in effect for your entire PatternMaker session Decide what you want to print e Whole Drawing Use the PRINT command to print all the visible objects in your drawing e Selected Objects Use PRINT SELECT to print only certain objects e Selected Area Use PRINT REGION to print a rectangular shaped section of the drawing Preview the print job Continue Preview Page layout grid The page layout grid shown as blue dashed lines shows how your pattern pieces will be positioned on the sheets of paper when the pattern is printed If a critical element Such as a grainline or notch falls on a page intersection you will know ahead of time that you should move the piece to avoid this situation You can also use this grid to arrange your pattern pieces to make the most efficient use of paper Use the MOVE ROTATE and other editing commands to move the pieces to the best position et The page grid is automatically sized to represent the printable area of your paper These grid blocks represent sheets of paper arranged in rows and columns The lines will change if you change your paper size or if you switch from portrait to landscape orientation The printable area is dete
13. Hove Then you must let the program know you are done selecting by right clicking RM the mouse or you cancel bij clicking the lt ESC gt key The command will then complete its action or in some cases request additional information from you See the Reference chapters for step by step instructions for each command You must complete the current command or cancel it before you can begin a new command To cancel a command press the lt ESC gt key or click the RM button Because this will be confusing for you we do not recommend to to cancel a command by clicking RM When you have finished or cancelled a command the command name appears in purple italics in the status bar 2 Learning the Basics Afore The most recent command you have used remains available until you select a different command This is a convenient way to repeat a command without having to continually select it from the menu or click the icon For example if you have just drawn a rectangle you can immediately draw a second rectangle simply by beginning to Click its first point If you find yourself in a situation where the commands you want are not available and it seems that you can t do anything check the status bar You probably have a command listed there in green Green means you re in the middle of a command and the program is waiting for further instructions from you You have two options at this point e If you didn t mean to be in the mi
14. I want to start with a saved pattern We ve seen this happen if you have a lot of files loose in your user directory If you can organize the files into folders you should find that the file browser opens more quickly When I maximize the screen the drawing refresh after every step The solution is to change the screen settings of PatternMaker Click Right Mouse at the PM icon at the desktop Select Properties Run Change it to Normal screen It will give no refreshing the screen anymore At our website in the Frequently Asked Questions chapter we have more trouble shooting answers See the FAQ chapter Knowledge Base 7 3 Getting Help There are several avenues available to you if you need help 1 First check the Help file It has been expanded to make it easier to find what you need You can access the Help file from the Help menu or by typing 2 Next check the Index of the User s Manual and the Index of the Tutorial You may be able to find a reference to something you didn t notice in the Help file 3 If it s a piece of terminology that s puzzling you check the Glossary 4 Finally you can contact technical support by e mail at support patternmakerusa com Also consider joining the PatternMaker User s Group e mail discussion list Check the PatternMaker web site for instructions on how to join www patternmakerusa com You can use the link in the About box located on the Help menu to automatically launch your brow
15. You can set the snap mode at any time with the Function hot keys or icons even when you re in the middle of a command e If you select the Snap command from the Settings menu you are presented with the following choices Option What it does Hot Key hold lt CTRL gt key down snap off Turn off Snap lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt grid Snap to grid points lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt end point Snap to endpoints vertices lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt nearest Snap to nearest edge of object lt CTRL gt lt F4 gt ortho Draw vertical or horizontal only lt CTRL gt lt F5 gt mid point Snap to midpoints of lines lt CTRL gt lt F6 gt intersection Snap to intersection of lines lt CTRL gt lt F7 gt offset Snap to offset from line lt CTRL gt lt F8 gt measured Measure along an object froma point lt CTRL gt lt F9 gt distance The Snap mode you choose stays in effect until you make a different selection See also Hot key functions LAYER command _ Settings gt Layers The LAYER command is used to modify the layer list Every object is on a layer and only objects on layers that are turned ON can be seen A drawing can have up to 24 layers Procedure 1 Activate the LAYER command by using the Hotkey lt F11 gt or select Layer from the Settings menu A window appears listing information for all layers 2 The window contains the following information 5 Reference Menu Commands E4 Set Edit Layers Lock Curent M
16. can also write a comment about patterns you save to help you identify them later When you save a pattern created from the pre designed garments this space will also save notes about which style options you chose and the measurements that were used Read more Finding and opening a pattern Saving a pattern LaunchPad Interface Select a designer The LaunchPad opens to the Designer s list A folder represents each designer whose collection s you have installed E4Select a garment to open Each designer it shown as a folder 2 Select a pximn Demy Pains Designer v IK Seath Ep Targad Dira Leena Changes to focus picture for selected designer Descriptive text about the selected designer Next Select a garment collection See also LaunchPad view options 2 Learning the Basics Select a garment collection Each garment collection is represented by a folder Click once on a folder to see the description and focus picture Open the folder to see the individual garments in the collection E4Select a garment to open RAA jwienner s Vel 1 beaiunet babona sipist acan choose hom a complete womans pladi Tops have bust dai c princess man opion jie theme barsi darbi opore akri aed parit Rove thee Fa ease opion ad can be made ary dened length ied pairs cht eres rach longo thot iii Gead Pap bared Letom Next Open a file See also LaunchPad view options LaunchPad Interface
17. choose the princess model collar style doesn t matter choose fitted sleeve long sleeve no shoulder pads Make your choices about the measurements and the seam allowance as above 7 When the pattern comes up on the screen ERASE the blouse center front center back and collar pieces 7 Patterson NONAME PAT E Se Fle Drw Edt View Settings Help ES he Mlaen Sd pee Erase CR wl m BE ti 4 E 1 AJI Ee The four pieces to be erased are highlighted 8 Activate the MOVE command Click LM on the side front piece of the Blouse and RM to indicate that you re done selecting 9 Now the command line says Base point This is the handle where you will pick up the piece to move it You need to precisely align the blouse piece with the vest piece so using a snap mode is best in this circumstance Press lt F5 gt to show vertices and turn on Snap to Endpoint in the status bar or lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt 10 LM on the point at the bust apex zoom in with lt HOME gt if you can t see all the points clearly then RM to indicate that you re done selecting 3 Patterns and Printing 11 Move the blouse piece on top of the vest piece and let the Snap align the bust apex points of the two pieces Click LM to put the piece down Remember there s always Undo if you don t get the right points on the first try PatteriMaker T A Ens Fie Drs
18. dxf files Set the size of the used notches in a scale Settings Menu Commands Configure Program Options Status Bar This tab controls what is visible in the main drawing window 7 contowe oa o i es Program Settings Background Image Status Bar Icon Bar Hot Keys Show Panek lau Pane Elements i loon i Fil Sh M Status Font ne m Lapti Line She Line width Hous Snap Mode Cancel App lt lt Base Show Panels Icon __ If this is checked the icon pane is displayed Status If this is checked the status pane is displayed Status Pane Elements This controls which elements of the status bar pane are displayed If an element is checked it is displayed in the status bar Remember you might not see all of these options in your version of PatternMaker See also Configure Program Settings 5 6 Help Menu Commands HELP command Help gt Help Contents Use Search above to select a topic from PatternMaker s list of commands For Icons click right button of mouse on icon Click on the green underlined text to jump from topic to topic within the Help file Use the Back button to go back to a topic you have already visited Use Print Topic from the File menu of the Help program to print out any topic as you are viewing it es i 5 Reference Menu Commands TIPS AND HINTS The Tips amp Hints feature has been added to help you make the most of your PatternMaker exp
19. f return to the drawing screen aar a PatternMaker j Lane wiih The pattern at the top is the current style The default style is a solid line Below are the five available types After you choose a line style it remains active until you change it again or until you restart PatternMaker Note Not all printers print these line styles the same way Make sure you like the way yours prints before using line styles extensively Changing the line width to 2 or higher style will only be effective on solid lines Dotted lines will always be printed with a line width of 1 See also Configure defaults Configure X ARC PIECES This setting controls the smoothness of the XArc curves A higher number makes smoother curves but in a large complicated drawing it may make a noticeable difference in the program s response time The smoothness of the curves is far more apparent in the printed pattern than on the screen You probably won t notice any difference in the on screen curves until the number gets below 12 so if you find that your drawing is slow to refresh try setting this number quite low until you re ready to print the pattern Changing this setting will affect all the existing arcs in your drawing You cannot have a number of curves with different XArc Pieces values Customizing PatternMaker Procedure e Select Configure from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab e f you only see a few
20. pan up down left right The arrow keys work just like the arrows ona window scroll bar the up arrow scrolls up in the drawing the drawing is going down the down arrow scrolls down in the drawing the drawing is going up the right arrow scrolls to the right in the drawing the drawing is going left the left arrow scrolls to the left in the drawing the drawing is going right You can use the lt F9 gt key to pan so that the mouse location is at the center of the screen All of the pan keys and icons can be used at any time even if you are in the middle of another command See also ZOOM command 5 Reference Menu Commands ZOOM commands a View gt Zoom The ZOOM commands change the scale of your drawing on screen PatternMaker lets you view your drawing at virtually any scale and ZOOM has many options to select the scale you want Using the ZOOM commands will not change the actual size of your drawing which is the size it prints out on paper Quick Zoom e To see the entire drawing press the lt END gt key e To zoom to a specific point put the mouse cursor on the point you want to see and press the lt HOME gt key or the lt F3 gt key e To zoom in quickly press the lt Page Down gt key or the lt F2 gt key e To zoom out press lt Page Up gt key or the lt F1 gt Zoom menu commands Procedure Activate the ZOOM command by clicking t
21. patterns See also Configure defaults Configure LINE WIDTH This command sets the width of the drawing line Every new object you draw will be drawn using the new line width There are two ways to change the line width Status Bar Use the LineWidth drop down box on the status bar Select the line width you want to use This can be from 1 to 10 m Ek MB 6 00 28 00 in GRID wlo77 yards PatemMaker Aore Customizing PatternMaker Configure Form Use the Line Width field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure form The x Configure Options i F F Progam Settings Background Imaga Configure form is found on the Settings epee ae menu Select the line width you want and then J of i A Fl Fiberi j click the OK button on this form to return to rmy L the drawing screen i Curent Font p FPattenmaker Whichever way you do it the drop down box displays the current width at the top the default is 1 with the other options below with a maximum line width of 10 Oe eee After you choose a line with that selection remains active until you change it again or until you restart PatternMaker Note about line widths The appearance of the printed lines depends on this line width setting together with your printer settings When PatternMaker prints a pattern it tells the printer to print everything one dot wide or two dots or five or whatever you have selecte
22. printing in columns Of course if you are using a plotter or a printer that uses continuous feed paper you will have much less taping to do 3 Patterns and Printing Aligning Pages Each page will have small marks in the corners for alignment see illustration below left Each corner of the page represents one quarter of a circle Put the corners together with the adjoining pages so that each four page intersection forms a circle with an X inside Every four page intersection should resemble the illustration above right If you choose to have the pages labeled the default is Yes they will be labeled with the file name row and column number so you will be able to assemble them easily See Commands Reference PRINT command PRINT SELECT command PRINT REGION command Going Further 4 Going Further 4 1 Customizing PatternMaker This section covers some of the ways you can make PatternMaker work the way you want to work Main drawing window There are many ways you can set up the main PatternMaker window in order to make it work effectively for you Panels grids Hot Keys and more can all be customized the way you want In Settings Configure or Settings Configure Defaults you can set the way you want to work and draw 1 Configure Defaults the settings you have made will be in effect every time you start PatternMaker or open a new or saved file 2 Configure You can set drawing properties viewing option
23. selected from the Settings menu or by using the lt F11 gt Hot Key When you select the command a large dialog box will come up with a display of the information for each layer Each line represents a different layer The current layer is represented with an asterisk There are 24 layers but they won t all be visible in the dialog box at once Use the scroll bar to move up and down the list You can change any of the settings by clicking the mouse on the item you want to change This column indicates the current active drawing layer Change the layer color by clicking in this column Objects an off layers are not a visible an Return all layer _ settings to defaults a L Reset All On Color On Ratio Lock Curent Hame Size a Size 10 Layer Layers can be Marked layers are locked Objects All OFf renamed here OF Cancel a a a a a a a T al L L l l l l l l E Cut Ratio Marker Studia orly See also LAYER command Default layer colors Using Layers Set the current layer Any new objects that are drawn will be placed on the current layer You can change the current layer with the LAYER command lt F11 gt or the Settings menu The current layer is marked with an asterisk and highlighted Select a different layer by clicking in the Current column of the layer list The previous current l
24. shortcut key Tn E NORE 2 Learning the Basics See also TOGGLE GRID command 2 2 LaunchPad Interface The LaunchPad interface makes it easy to find and use your patterns and saved files without worrying about losing them somewhere on your computer The designers and garment collections are represented by folders Each garment collection and the individual patterns have illustrations to help you choose a project And style options within each pattern are illustrated as well Start by selecting a designer Open a designer folder to see the installed collections Eater Bie Ekek Cbier Daa Fiat Fee Slt So 0 BP Hai i tate Lra bi steer ity bian Heston Outer g BoB By o weit D woei Reji Dumie Sopdet bii TAi Ai ee ae or an o eiecti a garmet ia ppm Open a collection to l Calen see the individual 4 selected collection a SOL T aja garments displays a description Fia hig big and focus picture ena mara i A Firag ikoa pha nap i i H nohanga ogden ne ee i hae hiin Farti phibia oe hart ae 4 haath ps ae od Focus picture for each garment Descriptive file names Fried piky hai Bei pukay Fii pA raci iii Di Aa bared Lawns Summar of each garment place for comments za Fide paer L E Each of the pre designed garments comes with a descriptive summary and you
25. tape pages together 60 technical support 7 123 terminology 7 123 Tip of the Day 10 tips and hints 113 TOGGLE GRID command 12 98 TOGGLE PAGE GRID command 98 troubleshooting 122 turn grids on off 12 50 98 99 turn layer on off 81 turn on the Start form 75 Tutorials arrange a pattern for printing 53 combining styles from different macros 40 typed commands 20 typed coordinates 31 types of files 83 U undo a command 28 UNDO command 78 95 undo history 78 UNITS command 63 Unlock Code registering PatternMaker 106 unselecting objects points 29 use a measurement table in a macro 47 using a macro 14 15 16 using a mouse 22 using layers 78 using macros 91 using measurement tables 43 91 using Snap modes 29 using the pre designed garmentss 37 38 39 40 V version 114 versions of PatternMaker 2 vertices show hide 99 view Explorer tree 18 view options LaunchPad 18 viewing a drawing 100 101 102 103 PatternMaker 7 5 Help W Welcome form 9 what is a macro 35 37 38 where files are stored 8 white background 66 wide narrow lines 71 window selection objects points 29 window style 75 Windows basics 3 working with files 13 14 15 16 17 86 87 X X and Y coordinates 31 Xarcs 13 Y yardage estimation 50 65 yardage grid show hide 65 showing hiding 50 99 YARDAGE GRID command 49 99 Z ZOOM ALL command 102 ZOOM commands 19 20 101 ZOOM IN OUT commands 102
26. the Advanced button at the bottom of the form e Enter a number in the Undo History field diwo File History io bi E Ani Dot Width o Lz 0 1 Lir Marc Places fj See also Configure defaults 4 2 Using Layers Layers are an advanced drawing feature that help you organize objects in your PatternMaker drawings Every object in your drawing is on a layer When you turn a layer off all of the objects on that layer disappear from the screen You don t see them they can t be selected and you can t print them When you turn the layer back on the objects reappear Note If you select an object that is grouped with other objects those objects are selected as well even if they are on layers that are turned off This is the only way to select objects in layers that are turned off Use the LAYER command to navigate from one layer to another You can assign your objects to layers any way you want Tip You can run a macro several times on different layers to compare different style options in the macro or to see the effect of changing measurements Each layer uses a different color so it s easy to see changes 4 Going Further The LAYER dialog box The LAYER command is used to display and or change the settings for the layers These settings include their names colors and whether they are on or off visible or hidden as well as changing the active layer on which new objects are drawn The LAYER command can be
27. the activity you want to do with PatternMaker The Start form is turned on by default when you first install PatternMaker If you turn off the form you can get it back with this setting on the Configure or Configure Defaults form Procedure e Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab e Mark or clear the Show Start Form checkbox Show Velites ae Show Stat Form d IS Cant ert bil ose See also Start Form Configure Configure Defaults Customizing PatternMaker Set Start locations This setting determines the default designer and garment collection that will be selected when you first choose the MACRO command upon starting PatternMaker Once you have navigated to a different collection or designer folder the MACRO command will open to the last selected location This makes it convenient to use one pattern several times or use more than one pattern in a collection But the next time you open PatternMaker the Start folder will return to this default location Procedure e Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab e f you only see a few options on the form click the Advanced button at the bottom of the form e Then click in the fields to select the desired location from the drop down box ai FECES JU Dimension Ford PattemMaker as Z Start Designer Folder Leena Sta
28. the command prompis when the command line is in this position FA Patternidaker Fite Draw Edit Points View Symbel Grade Settings Help Ee i elfen mm 54 1524 NONE 0 00 yards Camman Dione Commend Procedure e Double click in the blue area of the command line and the panel up moves up to the top or bottom of the screen e The command line will remain in its new position each time you open PatternMaker until you move it again by double clicking You can also change the place of the Command Line in the View menu by checking unchecking Command Line At Top Customizing PatternMaker mE P32 Alignment Grid HH Page Grid F12 Yardage Grid Ctl F12 Foints I zoa Refresh Command Line At Top See also Configure Configure Defaults Setting drawing preferences Several of the most frequently used drawing options are available as drop down boxes on the status bar all those as well as other options can also be accessed from the Configure Configure Defaults form N W ayer 6 00 28 00 in GRID 0 77 yards Patternhd aker Y Afore Z Configure Default Options BEIN Program Settings Background Image Status Bar Icon Bar Marker Hot Keys Active Layer Dimension Units Fabric Width Draw Settings gt Alignment Grid Line Color Layer0 E Inches v 29 528 Grid On nange Lolo Snap Mode On Screen Items DXF Scale diiad j Snap Off E
29. the side lines of a box When you see the divider move it to the right or left just the way you want it Itis possible to see the whole layer name by redesigning your status bar 6 00 28 00 ir Aore See also Using Layers COLOR command Settings Menu Commands Registering PatternMaker PatternMaker uses a serial number and unlock code system to restrict and unlock the features of the different versions read about the different versions When you load the program it will be run as the Basic Viewer The Basic Viewer will run and print the pre designed patterns but it does not have any drawing or editing features You can register for a free 30 day demo or you can purchase one of the higher versions which will give you access to more features Visit our web site www patternmakerusa com for current pricing information When you ask for a demo or have bought a version you will receive by mail a serial number that you need for registration Procedure 1 Registering is done on internet therefore you will need an internet connection for registering If you have not an internet connection on your computer laptop please contact with us for a manual registration 2 Registering can only be done when you run PatternMaker as an administrator Click with your RightMouse at the icon of PatternMaker on your Open desktop or via the Start menu Select Run as administrator A Windows message appears if you want to allow o
30. to save it 5 2 Draw Menu Commands The Draw menu contains commands used to create various objects in your drawing Everything in your drawing is an object the outline of a bodice piece is an object the arrow showing the grainline is an object and the text that says Bodice Front is an object OFFSET command Draw gt Offset The OFFSET command creates a polygon object that is offset a certain distance from an existing polygon This is useful for creating fixed width seam allowances You can offset both open and closed polygons and you can put the offset on either the inside or the outside of the selected object s Procedure 1 Click on the Offset icon or click Offset on the Draw menu The command name OFFSET will appear in green on the right side of the status bar The prompt on the command line says Select object to offset 2 Click LM on the object you want to add seam allowance to You can only select one object at a time The command line will Keep you informed as objects are selected and unselected 3 If you are done with selecting objects click RM If the Right mouse Context menu is set On you will get a menu to choose from Select Done Selecting An Offset Distance dialog box will appear 4 Enter the amount of seam allowance you want Remember to use decimal numbers not fractions See the Fraction Conversion Chart for help A positive number will draw the offset outside the original object a negative numbe
31. to click on one of the options If you click Cancel the macro will abort and you will be returned to the drawing screen of SLEEVE LENGTH l Smam SLEEVE LENGTH te a C Short 5 After you have made your choices it s time to enter your measurements You can either use a saved measurement table or you can enter the measurements manually Using a Measurement Table Select a measurement table and click the Open button The measurements from this table will be plugged into the macro 5 Reference Menu Commands Open Measurement Table Shared Files Eugi Habsi Lookin Pti a Pl Haray Nesaghibemure mri a Nee Solis eshhres mth Sue Sewer NOTE The measurement tables are automatically filtered to show only the tables matching the designer whose macro you are running If you don t see a table that you expect to see make sure you ve saved a measurement table for the correct designer Entering Measurements Manually If you are not using a saved measurement table click the Skip button to bypass the dialog box The macro will then display a dialog box into which you can enter your measurements manually Waist Crounference Messure wait atthe lathe lope Cancel Some macros may have two dialog boxes for measurements Fill these in from your measurement chart Remember to use decimal numbers so 8 3 4 inches is 8 75 inches and so forth Use the Fraction Conversion Chart for
32. to use the lt ESC gt button for cancelling commands In this way the use of which mouse will be more logical and you will always use the right mouse Getting around in PatternMaker Hot Key Functions The hot key functions are special functions that can be selected by typing one of the Function keys lt F1 gt lt F2 gt etc or other special keys on your keyboard Some of these are also available through command lists or icons others are options of other functions Hot key functions are useful because you can use any of the hot key functions even while doing another function 2 Learning the Basics KEY lt F1 gt lt F2 gt lt F3 gt lt F4 gt lt F5 gt lt F6 gt lt F7 gt lt F8 gt lt F9 gt lt F10 gt lt F11 gt lt F12 gt FUNCTION Zoom out makes everything appear smaller Zoom in on the center of the drawing area makes everything appear bigger Zoom in on the mouse To examine a detail of your drawing point at it with the mouse and press lt F3 gt a few times Grid on off Shows or hides the grid points Points on off Shows or hides the vertices of all objects Select snap A menu will appear listing all available snap modes Each snap mode also has its own hot key see below Unassigned Unassigned Unassigned in Basic Reader and Deluxe Editor Configure Opens the Configuration form where you can set various program options Layers Open the Layers dialog box Page Grid on off S
33. two forms they may display different information The Configure Defaults form shows how PatternMaker will start up every time you open the program or a new or saved file The Configure form will display the current settings reflecting any changes you may have made in the current drawing Configure Program Options Program Settings From this screen you can change many things having to do with the way PatternMaker looks and acts When you do not see the form as it is shown here click the Advanced button on the bottom of your form Z Configure Default Options Program Settings Status Bar Hot Keys Active Layer Dimension Units Fabric Width Draw Settings Alignment Grid Line Color i Layer m Y Inches v 29 528 m M Grid On ananga o Snap Mode On Screen Items s ail None M Show Page Grid F Show Yardage Grid Current Font Undo History Dim Settings PatternMaker v F Show Id Object Panel Text Size Line Width os l Show Vertices File History 0 5 Arrow Size Show Start Form Line Style z abcd Dot Width 07 M Use Right Mouse Menu Ev Line Offset R Show Shared Files Tab xarc Pieces 0 5 Notch scale V Show Explorer Tree 1 Dimension Font Start oe Folder PattemMaker Use Windows Browsers Nothing Selected V Use Offset Lines for Offset Start Collection Folder aes l Use White Background Nothing Selected v Cancel Apply Now lt lt Basic 5 Reference Menu Co
34. will fit nearly everybody over a wide range of sizes and builds but no computer generated pattern will fit everybody If you have a special fitting problem such as an asymmetrical body you may need to make adjustments on your own The macros will give you a good starting point to work from Most of these garments require an intermediate or advanced level of sewing skill If you do not already know how Using the pre designed garments to assemble a garment install a zipper etc you will need to refer to a general sewing text as well as the macro instructions and this manual Please do not rush We can give you the patterns but it s up to you to sew the best clothes you can For beginners the Skirt macro is the easiest to make For advanced sewists and pattern designers the Bodice macro serves as a sloper or fitting shell to design your own patterns What Else Is There The Deluxe Editor and Pro Studio versions of PatternMaker include the Women s Vol 1 Garment Collection The Grading Studio and Marker Studio include three collections of your choice Many other collections are offered separately To find out what s currently available check our web site at www patternmakerusa com Where Do I Start To start making your own patterns first have someone help you take your measurements Your macro package includes a measuring chart which details all the measurements necessary for that particular collection Make sure you re using
35. will have its own set of user folders Shared Files The garment collections and master measurement templates are shared among all users A folder for each designer is created under Program Files PatternMaker Software Shared Designers and each garment collection is installed in a sub folder under its designer You can also choose to save pattern files in the shared location Specific folders for each of these file types are located under the Program Files PatternMaker Software Shared folder This allows people to use the files when installed on a network Note When you want to use one of the programs Project Editor Collection Creator or MacroGen 4_5 files like the mac file or measurement tables have to be saved in a specific folder Read more about this in the Help of the specific program See also Show shared files LaunchPad vs Windows dialogs Measurement units One of the first decisions you ll make when you start PatternMaker is whether you want to work in inches or centimeters Depending on which version of PM you re using it may have asked you this question during setup Your choice of measurement units will affect the following things e pre designed garments the garments will check to see which units you selected and the default measurements will be displayed to you in that format You will enter your own measurements in that format e seam allowances enter your desired seam allowance using your chosen measurements
36. window opens see illustration below This window lets you see how the drawing will be arranged on the pages The blue lines show the pages The pages which will be printed are not shaded the pages which will not be printed are shaded By clicking a unshaded page it will change to shaded and will not be printed anymore It is very easy to select only those pages you want to be printed The small circles scattered over the drawing indicate the alignment marks on the corners of each page showing you how many sheets of paper will be needed These marks represent the printable area of the paper according to the abilities of your printer You can change from Portrait to Landscape mode in File Print Setup and the marks will change accordingly 7 iz Zs IF GY f Y Zp Z f F by k Print Printer Setup Print by Layer Cancel Print Scale 100 50 25 Fit to Page Scale Yardage Grid Offset Horizontal Vertical Increment Zoom Zoom Zoom Unselect All 5 Reference Menu Commands ide Pini Scale ve 100 m sox C 25 F Fitto Page F Scale aonik lo ert A p A rieren is Yaedage Gnd al al al Unreehect All At the top you can see two tabs Print Area and Print Options The Tab Print Area has the following options Print the drawing according to the selected options Open the Print Setup window to change printer options Print th
37. you type a new name a new file is created 4 PatternMaker automatically adds the PAT extension If you want to save in a different format for example DXF click the Save as Type drop down box and select the file type from the list Save a pattern file 5 Click the Save button See also SAVE command DXF Import Export 6 4 OPEN command The OPEN command opens an existing drawing a PAT file which has been saved on disk Opening a new file replaces whatever is on the screen If there is a drawing open the program will ask you if it should be saved Procedure 1 Click the Open icon or select Open from the File menu The Open File dialog box appears 2 If necessary navigate to the location of the file you want to open 3 By default PAT files PatternMaker format are displayed If you want to open a different format for example DXF click the Files of Type drop down box and select the file type from the list See picture 4 Select the file you want to open 5 Click the Open button You can open a PatternMaker Backup file BAK through the OPEN command This is useful if you ve made a major mistake in your drawing that the UNDO command cannot fix and you need to go back to a previous version of your file See also DXF Import Export Troubleshooting amp Support Frequently asked questions 7 1 Frequently asked questions Where do the macros come from There are many talented and creative
38. Endpoint Snap Off change layers page grid In the Basic Reader you don t have the commands available to move the points on screen but you can still combine styles from different macros Here s an example that shows how There s a lot of information given here but links are provided so that you can read more about each step if you need more help Let s say you want to put the sleeves from one garment onto the body of a different one We ll use the Classic Vest from the Women s Vol 2 collection and Fitted Blouse from the Women s Vol 1 collection but you can apply the same principles to any combination 1 Run the macro for the Classic Vest using the princess seam model Make a note of which bust ease option you use Neckline options don t matter 2 Enter your measurements or for the purpose of this tutorial just use the defaults 3 Seam allowance You ll have to decide whether to use seam allowance or not If you do it s there when you cut out the pieces but it s harder to distinguish between the two patterns If you use no seam allowance you just have to remember to add it when you cut out the pattern 4 Use the ERASE command to erase the armhole facings of the vest which won t be needed on a garment with sleeves 5 Change to a different layer so that the second pattern will be drawn in a different color In this example we ve used Layer 3 which draws in red 6 Run the macro for the Fitted Blouse Use the same bust ease and
39. I Show Page Grid oji Le Mie Current Font Show Yardage Grid C Mm EE a aE r ete hd ETEA Undo History Dim Settings I Show Id Object Panel Other EJ fi 0 Text Size Line Width ER os WV Show Yertices l E Arrow Size Show Start Form Show DXF form when loading Line Style i Ji ahed i 0 7 Use Right Mouse Menu E Line Offset W Show Shared Files Tab 0 5 i Dimension Font Start Beco Folder PattemMaker gt Use Windows Browsers Nothing Selected x WV Use Offset Lines for Offset Start Collection Folder WV Use White Background Nothing Selected v M Show Edit Arrow Form Notch scale V Show Explorer Tree 1 Cancel Apply Now lt lt Basic See also LAYER command Configure Configure Defaults 4 Going Further Configure COLOR This command selects a color for any new objects that are added to the drawing It does not change the color of any existing objects The color selection affects both the line color and the fill color There are several ways to change the drawing color Status Bar Use the Line Color drop down box on the status bar and select a new color as described below HH lli Lape od 6 00 28 00 in GRID O77 yards PattemMaker gt Color Icon Activate the COLOR command by clicking the Color icon and choose a new color as described below Configure Form Use the Line Color field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure for
40. Patte ria ker TO a PatternMaker Version 7 5 User s Manual Basic viewer Copyright 1994 2014 PatternMaker Software Patt fora ker Psonwcre PatternMaker Version 7 5 User s Manual Basic viewer oktober 2014 PatternMaker Version 7 5 Copyright 1994 2014 PatternMaker Software All rights reserved No parts of this work may be reproduced in any form or by any means graphic electronic or mechanical including photocopying recording taping or information storage and retrieval systems without the written permission from PatternMaker Software with the exception of quoting brief passages for the purpose of reviews Products that are referred to in this document may be either trademarks and or registered trademarks of the respective owners The publisher and the author make no claim to these trademarks While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this document the publisher and the author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions or for damages resulting from the use of information contained in this document or from the use of programs and source code that may accompany it In no event shall the publisher and the author be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage caused or alleged to have been caused directly or indirectly by this document Revised oktober 2014 Special thanks to Authors The wonderful members of PMUG and customers we ve talked to at shows who
41. RN PIECES OR IF YOU ONLY SEE PART OF THEM PRESS THE lt END gt KEY TO VIEW ALL THE PIECES IN THE DRAWING The macro will draw your new pattern in the drawing area If there is a drawing on the screen when you run a macro the macro will be added to what is on the screen It may overlap existing pattern pieces If this happens you can use the MOVE command to move things around Use the ZOOM and PAN commands to view different parts of the drawing A macro can be run as many times as you wish With the Deluxe Editor or higher you can reuse your own measurement table and you can create new tables for many different people Once the macro has created the pattern on the screen the drawing can be saved as a PAT file to be opened and printed again later With the Deluxe Editor or higher you can also edit the PAT file but you cannot automatically change the body measurements used in the garment To change the measurements run the macro again 6 3 Save a pattern file The SAVE AS command saves the current drawing with a new file name while leaving the current file unchanged Use this to save your new work without erasing your old work Procedure 1 Select Save As from the File menu The Save File dialog box appears 2 If necessary navigate to the location where you want the file to be saved 3 Type a name for your file or select a file from the list If the filename you select or type already exists that file will be overwritten If
42. S Sees Th NS af T 7 r 7 hy a s ks Pa Te oe a E e a i Tj SK Gn Drone N ae A ee T T p GGG o ane CEET a E Se YZ UY 12 f f f f f f f Notice how the Select All button toggles to Unselect All when you click it Print setup options If you don t like what you see in the Preview window there are several things you can do e Move the pieces in the drawing window Use the Page Grid lt F12 gt to help with the arrangement e Switch to a different printer which may offer different paper handling capabilities e Change your printer from Portrait to Landscape mode portrait landscape You can access Print Setup by using the button on the Print Preview screen or directly from the File menu Printing and assembling the pattern Printing to a single page This feature automatically reduces the entire drawing to the size of one printed page and prints it You can also choose to include the yardage grid in your printout This gives you a handy pattern layout diagram to file with your pattern or take with you to the fabric store 3 Patterns and Printing Print offset settings The Print Preview window has horizontal and or vertical offset options that can be used to adjust the position of the pattern on the printed page in small increments If you are simply printing your pattern at full size you can use the page layout grid in t
43. SICS If you are brand new to computers take some time to go over this section Make sure you are familiar with the following terms since they will be used frequently as you read through the manual Click Move the mouse around until the point of the mouse cursor is pointing where the directions instruct you Press the left button once and then release it If the directions say click it always means one click If they mean two clicks they will say double click Also when this manual simply says click it means with the left button LM In PatternMaker as in many other programs right clicking RM has special functions Double click Move the mouse around until the point of the mouse cursor is pointing where the directions instruct you Press and release the left button twice quickly Be careful not to move the mouse as you do this If nothing seems to happen try clicking faster and be sure the mouse does not move Time out for basics Icons These are small pictures that represent actions They are shortcuts to commonly used program commands Click once on an icon to execute its command Menu bar The row of words across the top of the PatternMaker window This is where you find all the commands of the program When you click on one of the menu items you get a drop down menu These menus are associated with the menu item that they drop down from For example the menu that appears when you click the word Fil
44. acro is a file with a name ending in MAC such as Pants mac The name of each macro file is given along with the descriptions of the macros in the separate 117 MACRO command instructions that accompany the macro collection Select the macro you want to run and click the OK button It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro a EJ Select a garment to open Look irc Free Stuff oF Fitting bodice sloper marc Interchangeable eollars nmac Pants pleats or darts mac File rame Fitting bodice slopes mac Open Files of lype Garment File mac x Cancel 3 You will now see a series of dialog boxes which ask questions and offer choices The choices are different for each macro For instance for the womens dress you will be asked if you want a sleeveless dress or one with sleeves To continue through the macro use your mouse to click on one of the options If you click Cancel the macro will abort and you will be returned to the drawing screen After you have made your choices it s time to enter your measurements You can either use a saved measurement table or you can enter the measurements manually Using a Measurement Table Open Measurement Table Look inc O MeasureT ables d D ea a x Susie Seer MTE A Sally Stitcher MTE File nama Susie Sewer MTE Open 4 Files oi lype Measurement Table mtb Cancel He
45. aker e Select Create Measurement Table from the Settings menu e Navigate to C Program Files PatternMaker Software Shared MeasureTables PA te TT gt G x i PatternMakerSoftware Shared p v Search Shared el Organize v New folder Fil A ba Online Services Name Date modified Type D di OpenOffice org 3 J Designers 3 25 20129 11 AM File folder D di Parser Generator 2 J Grade 9 18 2011 1 29PM __File folder 4 1B PattemMaker Software Bu 9 8 2011 10 26 AM File fold z p EEEE icenses 8 ile folder a J MeasurePictures 10 4 2011 8 30AM File folder gt PatternMaker7 n r db MeasureTables 4 30 201211 27 AM_ File folder b di PatternMaker 7_5 ive J Patterns 4 30 2012 11 27 AM File folder 7 al leenahome 12 6 2011 8 31 AM Internet Shortcut ame ff pmakerhome 12 6 2011 8 30 AM Internet Shortcut i Grade di Licenses b di MeasurePictures i MeasureTables N Ca aL File name v Master Measurement Tables v e Open the sample measurement file called Leena_default_women mmt Pa e e i x 9 Search MeasureTables J Organize v New folder gz O di OpenOffice org 3 Date modified Type di Parser Generator 2 di PatternMaker Software di MacroGen 4_5 di PatternMaker 7 di PatternMaker 7_5 J Shared E i Designers di Grade Leena_default_women mmt 12 6 2011 8 30 AM Pattern d Licenses MeasurePictures di MeasureTables i Patterns El m a a r File name Second mmt
46. ame Size amp ize 10 avers avers averd apert aperb aper aperi Lock Indicated with an asterisk Objects on a locked layer remain visible but cannot be selected or changed Click the mouse to lock the layer Current Indicated with an asterisk All new objects are drawn on the current layer Click the mouse by a different layer to switch to that layer Name Click on the name then type in a new name for the layer By default layers are named Layer0 Layer1 etc When you stretch the form the Name field becomes wider It is therefore possible to read longer layer names Color Click on the color swatch then select a new default color for the layer These settings apply only to the current drawing On Click on the word on or off to turn layers on and off Turning a layer off makes any object on that layer invisible Reset Set all layers back to their original colors and names 3 Click on any item with the mouse to change or set it When finished click the OK button 4 After the dialog box closes the drawing will be updated to reflect the new settings When you stretch the Set Edit Layers form the Name field becomes wider very handy for longer layer names You can also switch to a different layer by clicking the Layer drop down box in the status bar Lo F b GRID Oy yards Pattermblaker Note you can change the width of the several fields in the status bar by moving your cursor over
47. ame turns purple Icons Standard Icons The icons are provided to make it easy and quick for you to use PatternMaker with a mouse If you learn how to use the icons they will make your work faster and easier However you never have to use the icons at all everything that you can do with icons can also be done with either a menu choice or a typed input Use whichever is most convenient for you You can activate a command by clicking an icon with the left mouse button LM Clicking the right mouse button RM on an icon will give you the Help information for that icon Remember that not all commands are represented by icons if you don t see an icon for a command you may still be able to select it from a drop down menu Context Icons As soon as you start a command a different set of icons will appear in the icon area These icons represent options that you can select while doing a command The icons that appear will vary depending on the command you selected and on what choices are available Example When you first start PatternMaker there is nothing in your drawing and the MOVE icon doesn t appear This is because there is nothing to move After you draw an object the MOVE icon and several others appear 2 Learning the Basics Example When you activate the MOVE command a different set of icons appears These are the Selection icons These are options you can use while selecting objects to move Menus You can selec
48. and require taping a lot of pages together To avoid wasting paper make sure your pattern has only the pieces you need and that they are as close together as possible Use the MOVE ROTATE and ERASE to arrange the pieces for printing Note If you are using a macro remember that you might need to leave room around the edges of the pieces to cut the seam allowances Seam allowances are not always included on macro pattern pieces automatically If you want to print the pattern with seam allowances and they are not included use the OFFSET command before printing ae See also All options in the Print Preview window PRINT SELECT command PRINT REGION command PRINT SETUP command Assembling Printed Pages PRINT REGION command The PRINT REGION command lets you select a rectangular area to print rather than the entire drawing All objects or portions of objects within the selected area will be printed Procedure 1 Select the PRINT REGION command from the File menu The prompt on the command line says Enter a DOint lt ESsC gt to cancel 2 Click LM on one corner of the area you wish to print for example the upper left corner 3 The prompt on the command line says Second point lt ESC gt to cancel As you move the mouse around you will see the box changing shape This box represents the area that will be printed 4 When you have defined the area you want to print click LM again The Print Preview window will now open Continu
49. ange pattern layout Define fabric width POINTS SHOW VERTEX command This command shows or hides all the vertices points in the drawing Points are represented by an X Corner points are shown in green and regular straight line points are shown in biue cyan comer ee F control F a points a sel regular ete be points p 7 F a io _ e ee T If there are two points at the same location the Xs cancel each other out and no X appears at that location Procedure e Select Points from the View menu A submenu opens A check mark appears in front of the menu item Show Vertex if the points are turned on e You can also use the shortcut key lt F5 gt for this command View Menu Commands POINTS SHOW NAME command This command shows or hides the point names in the drawing Most patterns don t use named points but this command is available on the menu in case it s needed _ Side neck f pra Center bock ai ON S02 shouider a _ Procedure e Select Points from the View menu A submenu opens A check mark appears in front of the menu item Show Name if the point names are turned on If you turn on the names and nothing appears it means that no points have been named ZOOM commands PAN commands View gt Pan PAN changes your point of view in a drawing moving the center of the drawing to a new point without changing the scale You can use either the icons or the arrow keys to
50. atus bar drawing area Commend Done Lommand The drawing area contains all the objects in your pattern whether you draw them yourself or use one of the pre 2 Learning the Basics designed garments You can think of the drawing area as the viewfinder on a camera it shows a limited section of an area that stretches out in all directions You can zoom out zoom in or pan to different areas of the drawing using the arrow and page up page down keys We ll get to those commands in a few minutes Three grids are available to you as you work e alignment grid dots to help in positioning objects See Measurement Units e page grid blue dashed line to show how pattern pieces will be printed See Page Grid e yardage grid red dashed line to help you estimate fabric usage and create a pattern layout See Yardage Grid The drawing area is white by default but it can be changed to black if you prefer See Custom Settings Screen Color for details The command line or prompt line is where PatternMaker gives you messages and asks you questions The most recent prompt appears at the bottom It is very important to read these prompts If the computer does something that you don t expect it s usually because the command you think you re running is not the command the program thinks you re running Reading the prompt line and the status bar will let you know what the program is trying to do Doubleclicki
51. aw from 0 0 to 3 5 but who knows where that 0 0 point is by this time The r or the sign is used to indicate that the next coordinates you type are going to be of the relative type For example Point A is at position 1 1 if you enter r2 1 for the following point it is positioned two units to the right of and one unit above Point A Its absolute coordinates are 3 2 but you don t have to know that in order to draw the line ex 2 1 wear 2 1 Point A oe Polar coordinates Polar coordinates are a bit different from standard X Y coordinates Polar coordinates measure distance and degrees rather than distance and distance Polar coordinates appear as two numbers separated by an angle sign lt rather than a comma The first number is the distance and the second number is the angle in degrees Angles are measured from a base line that starts at the origin 0 0 and extends to the right Positive angles go up and negative angles go down For example the position represented by 3 lt 30 is located three units from the origin at an angle of 30 degrees diagonally upward 3x30 30 degrees You can also make polar coordinates relative to the last point you entered by preceding the pair of numbers with the r or sign as in relative coordinates above Patterns and Printing 3 Patterns and Printing 3 1 Using the pre designed garments Here s where we get into really using PatternMaker In this section we will e talk ab
52. ayer will be untagged and the new current layer will be tagged Close the Layer box by clicking the OK button 04 Set Edit Layers Lock Current Name On Ratio The Status Bar has a Layers drop down box that you can use as an alternate method of switching from one layer to another However you cannot change the name or color of the layer from this drop down box 4 Going Further Naming a layer Each layer has a default name LayerO Layer1 Layer2 etc You can change a layer s name with the LAYER command Open the Layer dialog box either by pressing the lt F11 gt Hot Key or from the Settings menu Click on the name you want to change and retype it Click the OK button when you re finished Turning a layer on and off You can turn a layer on and off with the Layer command Just open the Layer box lt F11 gt or the Settings menu and click on the word on or off next to the layer you want to change When you are done click the OK button Only the objects on a layer that is turned On are visible Default layer colors Each layer has an automatic default color called LayerColor That s its name just like the colors called Red or Blue The layer color is what determines the color of new objects that are added to the drawing All new objects are drawn using LayerColor unless you specifically change the current drawing color or assign a different color to an object Examples e An objec
53. bles for your family and friends too Professional Studio adds e Drawing Draw new patterns using the same procedures you use now to draw patterns on paper Change edit or save existing patterns e Tools Take advantage of advanced drawing tools such as facings pleats and darts e Layers Use layers to help organize objects in your drawing e Customization Set up PatternMaker to look and work the way you want Advanced Features PatternMaker Grading Studio and Marker Studio are for the professional pattern cutter or designer and have many powerful features for the serious user These include e Digitizers Use a digitizer tablet to trace patterns from paper originals or books If the original was not full scale you can automatically expand it to life size e Grading Grade your pattern according to your own grading rule Make your own pattern in Size 10 for example and PatternMaker can convert the pattern to sizes 8 12 and 14 Save a grading rule simply easily and quickly and apply that grading rule to any other pattern e Special symbol libraries These contain commonly used symbols such as buttonholes grainlines arrows etc which you can insert into your pattern One basic symbol library is provided with PatternMaker In addition if you have Grading Studio or Marker Studio creating your own libraries is as easy as saving a file e Marker features PatternMaker Marker Studio lets you arrange pattern pieces and print product
54. bottom of the PatternMaker window is a blue area called the Command Line This is where PatternMaker tells you what it s doing and what it expects you to do next select something finish doing something etc The command area shows the last three actions with the most recent item at the bottom 1 4 Starting the program When you install PatternMaker it creates an icon on your desktop and also on the Start Programs menu This icon looks like a needle and thread x PatternMaker 7 5 Let s go Double click on the icon to launch the program The program takes a moment to load If you try to click on something and nothing happens or if you see a Not Responding message in the title bar of the program window just wait a few more seconds and then try again __ LS 1 Introduction Learning the Basics 2 Learning the Basics 2 1 Program overview Okay you ve got PatternMaker now what Here s a strategy on getting started e Start first with reading the Quick Start manual that you can open through the Start window of PatternMaker You will find here in short the most important things to know about PatternMaker e Read through the Program Overview and LaunchPad Interface sections e Read the section on Patterns and Printing Have someone help you take your measurements follow the directions here and then try the sample pants or the fitting bodice to check that your measurements were taken properly follow dir
55. boundaries of your screen The origin zero point may be far off the screen but the position indicator helps you keep track of where you are I Getting around in PatternMaker As mentioned above coordinates are used not only for PatternMaker to tell you something where you are in the drawing but also for you to tell PatternMaker something where you want to put something There are four types of coordinates that you can use absolute relative polar and relative polar Absolute coordinates Somewhere in the drawing area is the 0 0 point the place where the horizontal measuring line meets the vertical measuring line In reality you probably won t pay attention to where this is You ll be busy zooming and panning around and won t ever notice where 0 0 is But it is important to realize that it exists because it explains the numbers in the mouse coordinates area on the status bar Absolute coordinates are always measured from the point 0 0 the origin of the grid For example point 2 1 is two units to the right of the origin and one unit above the origin Relative coordinates Much more relevant to your regular work is the idea of relative coordinates This simply means that you are measuring from your last point rather than from that elusive 0 0 location Scenario You ve experimented with zooming and panning and you have no idea where you are on the screen Now you want to draw a 3x5 rectangle You could dr
56. command 91 macros 35 37 38 39 40 using 14 15 16 main drawing window 63 MEAS command 107 measurement pictures 39 Measurement table print 49 measurement tables changing 48 copying 109 creating 47 107 editing 108 using 43 91 using in a macro 47 measurement units choosing measurements copying measurement tables creating measurement tables editing measurement tables how to take menu bar menus mouse actions mouse scrolling mouse snaps MOVE command move the command line multiple undo redo N name a layer narrow wide lines NEW command number of pages number of Undos O objects assigning to layers erasing moving rotating selecting selecting all unselecting OFFSET command offset lines old style dialog boxes open a file open a macro open a pattern open a pre designed garment open a saved pattern OPEN command open files options for selecting objects points options in LaunchPad interface orientation of pages Index 8 63 109 107 108 43 10 20 23 65 22 20 29 83 104 96 67 28 95 71 86 98 78 29 82 97 96 96 28 29 30 29 29 94 74 19 86 14 15 16 16 14 15 16 16 86 76 28 29 18 99 PatternMaker 7 5 Help P page grid 52 53 show hide 64 98 page labels and alignment marks 59 page orientation 55 91 page rows columns 60 PAN commands 19 100 parts of the screen 10 12 pattern fill pattern 70 pattern layout 50 pattern
57. command on the Settings menu e An Open File dialog box will appear The files are automatically filtered to show only the MTB files e Select the table you wish to edit and click the Open button e The table opens with the existing numbers e Change the numbers that need to be modified and then click the OK button The table is saved with the changes When you click OK your changes are automatically saved to the same table If you want a second table with the new measurements copy the measurement table first then edit the new copy See also EDIT MEASUREMENT TABLE command COPY MEASUREMENT TABLE command 3 Patterns and Printing Print a measurement table It is possible to print out your measurements from the measurement table You can also save your measurements in a HTML extension which can be opened afterward in for instance Excel When you create or edit copy a measurement table a button Print will show at the bottom in the Measurement Table Form When you click at this button a message will appear about the printing x lj Measurement Table Print Info The Measurement Table info will open in your web browser You can select the Print option from your web browser or save as HTML Your web browser will open and you can print out the measurements by selecting the Print Option in your webbrowser You can also select the Save as option in your webbrowser and scroll for the desired fol
58. commands let you select only one object at a time With the OFFSET command for example you can add a seam allowance to one object at a time We will use the abbreviation LM to indicate a left mouse click The right mouse button is used to confirm what you have selected It indicates to the program that you have finished selecting things and are ready to proceed to the next element of the command We will use the abbreviation RM to indicate a right mouse click The lt ESC gt key can be used interchangeably with RM To help a beginning user with using the left and right mouse correctly a Right click Context menu is set by default The basic rules of mouse operation are e If you re drawing something use LM to enter a point e If you aren t drawing something use LM to choose a command or answer a question e Use RM to end whatever you re doing e Don t click and drag like you do with many other computer applications Just click the button and release it e The normal mouse cursor looks like an arrow An hourglass shaped cursor means you should wait for the computer to finish what it is doing e f the mouse cursor is outside the PatternMaker window on your computer screen your inputs won t be read by PatternMaker The Mouse Coordinates box in the menu bar will tell you the current position of the mouse a lft wJa77yade PaterMaker wove These are standard X Y coordinates The first number is the X or horizontal positio
59. ctions i e double around back neck and divide the result by 2 there seldom Is any error in waist height Therefore the error usually is in back length If shoulder slopes in wrong direction either a back length is too much and if shoulder is too steep b back length is too little Change back length 2 3 cm in the needed direction and see if it is enough to correct the situation If it looks good you can see at which point at the back of the neck the measurement should be taken to be correct If the subject stands in a very upright military position with bust out and abdomen in also waist height may be too much Please make sure that the subject stands in a relaxed position although not slouched when she is being measured In some cases a steep shoulder may be due to the subject s body shape This is the case if the subject has a very prominent bust And conversely if a subject has a very flat bust and or a very round back the shoulder can be rather straight Thus there are cases where the patterns are all right even if they look odd When the patterns are drawn according to a person s own measurements they should not be compared with patterns drawn according to normal or average measurements If you are not sure of the measurements taken you have a very good and simple way to check them sew a muslin with the basic bodice patterns If it fits on the subject you can be sure that all other garments sewn with Leena s patterns wil
60. d If your printer is set on a high resolution that is lots of dots per inch the dots are very small If the printer is set on a lower resolution fewer dots per inch each dot is larger The highest resolution very small dots is what you want for printing certain things like photographs but this can result in your pattern lines being too faint If you encounter this problem try changing your printer settings before changing the line widths of everything in your drawing Note Changing the line width to 2 or higher will only be effective on solid lines Dotted lines will always be printed with a line width of 1 See also Configure defaults Configure LINE STYLE This command sets the current line style to solid line dotted dashed etc Every new object you draw will be drawn using the new line style There are two ways to change the line style Status Bar Use the LineStyle drop down box on the status bar Select the line style you want to use i w La BE v e00 28 00in GRID 7 yards PattemMaker Wore 4 Going Further Configure Options i fi Program Seating Background Configure Form Use the LineStyle field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure form The J Draw Sethings Aligning Configure form is found on the Settings Line Color r menu Select the line style you want and C d then click the OK button on this form to o
61. d and saved You can edit an existing measuretabel and save it as another name The original tabel is also saved Procedure 1 Select Edit Measurements from the Settings menu A dialog box opens showing the personal measurement tables MTB files that have been created and saved in the folder Measure Tables in My Documents Open Measurement Table Shand Files Eugeria Naber A pampana measurement lable 2 Highlight the table you want to copy and click the Open button 3 The measurement table opens Make any necessary changes and then click the OK button 4 Save the table with a new name Settings Menu Commands This process is exactly the same as EDIT MEASUREMENT TABLE except that this command gives you a chance to rename the file while the original file is also saved See also CREATE MEASUREMENT TABLE command EDIT MEASUREMENT TABLE command Configure Configure Defaults There are two ways to configure PatternMaker 1 You can set drawing properties viewing options and program behaviors that will be in effect on the opened file Configure Some drawing options you can change in the status bar on the screen These changes will be visible in the Configure form Some changes you want to make have to be done in the Configure form itself like background color 2 You can choose settings that will be in effect every time you start PatternMaker or open a new or saved file Configure Defaults When you open these
62. d assembling the pattern If you use a large format printer and you use the cut printed area option the paper will be cut automatically after the last pattern is printed it could be necessary to put off the label alignment marks and file name PatternMaker will print them at the bottom of each page so they will conflict with the cut printed area option Putting pages together Rows Columns Each page that you print can be labeled if you so choose with alignment marks and row column indicators Together they help you assemble your multi page pattern quickly and easily The name of the file being printed is also included The row and column indicators tell you where a particular sheet of paper should be placed in the layout Rows run across the drawing from left to right and columns run from top to bottom COLUMN COLUMN COLUMH 1 2 a row 1 of 2 row 1 of 2 row 1 of 2 column 1 of 3 column 2 of 3 column 3 of 3 ROW 1 row 2 of 2 row 2 of 2 ROW 2 column 2 of 3 column 3 of 3 The pages are printed in order either in rows or in columns see illustration below so if you assemble them straight from the printer you will find that it is an easy task to keep them organized Align the pages as described below and tape them together Itis better to have too much tape than too little but you must at least apply tape at the points where the border of a pattern piece crosses from one page to another Order of printing fin rows Order of
63. ddle of a command right click your mouse or press lt ESC gt until the command name turns purple This may require more than one click press When the command is purple it means it is inactive and you can continue with some other action e f you are in the middle of a command and don t know what to do next check the command line It will give you instructions on what it is waiting for elect object ffor help lt esct done ltem selected A Base point Jestination ESC to quit The most recent command is on the bottom See also Selecting Objects or Points Repeating a command If you click the mouse on the screen again after you ve finished a command the last editing or drawing command you performed will be repeated This allows you to draw or edit many objects without having to select the same command icon over and over If you aren t sure which command will be repeated the command s name is displayed in purple on the far right end of the status bar Be careful about clicking the mouse in the drawing area indiscriminately it s easy to repeat a command without meaning to Remember if you don t understand what the computer s trying to do read the commpand line Canceling a command To cancel a command press the lt ESC gt key or click the RM button when you have set the context menu on Some commands have more than one step and therefore require more than one click Remember
64. der where you want to save the measurements in a HTML extension Afterwards you can open that HTML file in a program like Excel and edit them 3 2 Fabric yardage and pattern layout Estimating Fabric Yardage PatternMaker can help you with the calculations in determining yardage but it is still up to you to make certain decisions such as how many times each piece will be cut which pieces need to be placed on a fold and whether the fabric will be laid out in a single or double layer After you define a fabric width the yardage grid will display a rectangular shape that is as wide as the number you entered The yardage is represented in the drawing area by a red dotted dashed line Note Turn the yardage grid on and off with the lt CTRL gt lt F12 gt shortcut key Keep in mind that the initial arrangement of pattern pieces drawn by the macro will not represent a realistic fabric layout arrangement You will need to use some of the editing commands to move the pattern pieces into a more practical arrangement Mt en mm con 2200 GRID 077 sass _ Jatera J me The yardage grid will automatically change shape as you arrange pattern pieces and add objects to your drawing See also MOVE command ROTATE command Fabric yardage and pattern layout Define fabric width From the Settings menu select Configure Defaults and then click on the Program Settings tab In the field labeled Bolt Width enter the width of fabric you
65. e is called the File menu The Save command is an item on the File menu If you need more help with any of these you can find full details in your Windows manual or Help section PATTERNMAKER BASICS Object Something that is drawn in PatternMaker There are four types of objects but the two main types you ll be concerned with are Polygons and Text A Polygon object is a shape circles lines octagons and collars sleeves pockets etc A Text object is a descriptive label that you can add to any part of a drawing Vertex vertices pl The beginning end of a line segment or the place where two line segments come together For example a triangle a Polygon object has three vertices one at each corner Sometimes we ll also use the word point to mean vertex simply because it s a more familiar word The menu that contains commands relating to vertices is even called the Points menu At other times the word point may be used to mean spot or location as in the point where the two lines intersect The meaning should be clear from the context Points vs Objects Points and objects are related obviously since objects are made up of points but in PatternMaker you interact with them entirely separately Commands that affect entire objects ERASE CUT MOVE etc are found on the Edit menu commands that affect individual points MOVE VERTEX DELETE VERTEX etc are found on the Points menu The Command Line At the
66. e Configure or Configure Defaults form found on the Settings menu SPOR PAJE Lani Show Yardage Grid This setting toggles the yardage grid on and off This can also be toggled with the lt CTRL gt lt F12 gt hot key See also Set fabric width Estimating Fabric Yardage Configure Configure Defaults Use Right Mouse menu The Right Mouse menus provide guidance while you re getting used to the left click right click circumstances in PatternMaker If you accidentally right click when you should left click the Right Mouse menu guides you toward the correct choice You can also access Help for the selected command If you re using a command with just one step such as a drawing command the Right Mouse menu will let you either cancel the command or keep drawing If the command involves selecting things the menu is slightly different It will let you cancel the command continue selecting or indicate that you are done selecting If you no longer want to use these Right Mouse menus the control setting is available on the Configure or Configure Defaults form on the Settings menu Customizing PatternMaker W Show Start Form W Use Right Mouse Menu dw ee a See also Configure Configure Defaults Set fabric width This option is accessed by a field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure or Configure Defaults form found on the Settings menu a i Fabre width a In the field labeled
67. e Print Preview window Make the changes you want and then click the OK button See also Print Preview window MACRO command A File gt Macro The MACRO command runs a macro Macros are small plug in programs that run inside PatternMaker to create custom fit patterns Before you run a macro set up a personal measurement table Procedure 1 Click on the Macro icon or select Macro from the File menu 2 The file browser opens Select the designer collection and garment file that you want The descriptions and focus pictures help you make your selection 3 4 File Menu Commands E4Select a garment to open Collections m aje a B Select a garment to open Cotectons Fitted Fimeduleve Fithreg bedkoe lintescherge Marrie Pania pleats bicarte ree chart rere ihe los colai mae shart rere br hats creas Shashi Caaghe ema aiir Topa hawe bus dat o pregi seam ophons ad theme busi pipt opier Heel ord pari Rave thee Pp ease opinn ad can be made any denned length Fia ames T adored jacket Select the macro you want to run and click the OK button It may take a few seconds for PatternMaker to load the macro You will now see a series of dialog boxes which ask questions and offer choices The choices are different for each macro For instance for the women s dress you will be asked if you want a sleeveless dress or one with sleeves To continue through the macro use your mouse
68. e according to the PRINT instructions The program will print as many pages as necessary to cover the area you selected Note Also the objects that you did not select in the region but fit on the pages to print will be printed See also PRINT SELECT command Assembling Printed Pages 5 Reference Menu Commands PRINT SELECT command The PRINT SELECT command lets you choose one or more objects to print rather than the entire drawing Procedure 1 Select the PRINT SELECT command from the File menu The prompt on the command line says Select Objects to Print 2 Click LM on one or more objects Each piece that you select is highlighted If you make a mistake click on an object again to un select it 3 To stop selecting objects click RM or press the lt ESC gt key 4 The Print Preview window will now open Continue according to the PRINT instructions The program will print as many pages as necessary to cover the object s you selected Note Also the objects that you did not select but fit on the pages to print will be printed See also PRINT REGION command Assembling Printed Pages PRINT SETUP command The PRINT SETUP command takes you to the Windows Print Setup dialog box Here you can change which printer you are going to use and also change the page orientation Portrait to Landscape or vice versa You can access this dialog box either from the File menu in the main drawing screen or from the Print menu in th
69. e drawing by layer Close the Print Preview window and return to the drawing screen The pattern will be printed in scale 100 Set by Default The pattern will be printed in scale 50 The pattern will be printed in scale 25 The pattern will be printed on 1 page The patterns will be printed in the custom set scale When you fill in 100 the printing can be more efficient then the placed patterns on the pages Yardage grid will be shown on the printing moving the pattern horizontal on the printing area with a certain amount of increments moving the pattern vertical on the printing area with a certain amount of increments the size of the step of offset Make the view of the drawing larger Make the view of the drawing smaller All pages will be shaded Only the unshaded pages are printed File Menu Commands No of pages the necessary number of pages for printing the pattern is shown The Tab Print Options has the following options Alignment MarkChoose whether you want the pages to print with alignment marks The default is Yes Label Pages Choose whether you want the pages to print with labels Row Column and Filename The default is Yes File Name Choose whether you want the pages to print with the file name The default is Yes Print Rows firsiorint row by row Print Columns iprint column by column When you use use banner or continuous feed paper check this Note Printing a pattern may take lots of pages on a desktop printer
70. e grid the default size for the alignment grid is one unit either 1 inch or 1cm See also Set measurement units 2 Learning the Basics What s on the screen Start Form The Start form helps you easily select how you want to use PatternMaker when you open the program Welcome to PatternMaker x Select C Use a pre designed garment macro C Open a blank drawing area C Open a saved patter C View What s Mew in Version 7 5 Do above by default on start Display Tip of the Day e Use a pre designed garment macro Select a pattern MAC file from a garment collection you have installed see Open a pre designed garment e Open to a blank drawing area Begin drawing something from scratch e Open a saved pattern Open a pattern PAT file you ve created from scratch or saved after running a macro e Read the What s New in Version 7 5 topic e Read the Quick Start Manual topic Gives you some basic step by step instructions the most important functions in PatternMaker It takes you through the steps of creating a measurement table starting the macro selecting garment options printing the pattern and some important commands e Exit Closes PatternMaker If you check the Do above by default on start box the program will always perform the selected option without displaying the form If the form has been turned off in this way you can turn it back on by selecting the option on the Configure or Configu
71. e to do with points of objects These are listed in the Points menu UNDO command Edit gt Undo The UNDO command reverses the last editing or drawing command Procedure 1 Click the Undo icon select Undo from the Edit menu or type lt CTRL gt Z 2 The last change you made will be undone If you drew a new object it will be erased If you moved an object it will be returned to its original position and so on Some commands cannot be undone including SAVE Close SAVE AS and Create Symbol ZOOM and PAN commands don t count UNDO will undo whatever you did before the Zoom In general drawing editing grading and marker commands can be undone PatternMaker also supports a multiple undo redo feature The number of commands you can undo or redo is determined by the configuration settings you have selected see Configure Options This number is limited only by the speed and memory capacity of your computer a longer Undo history will make your computer run more slowly If you undo the maximum number of steps the command is inactive until you complete another undoable action See also REDO command REDO command Edit gt Redo The REDO command resiores the last editing or drawing action that was reversed with the UNDO command Procedure 1 Click the Redo icon or select Redo from the Edit menu 2 The last action you undid will be redone See also UNDO command Edit Menu Commands MOVE command Edit g
72. e waist or at the top of the thighs 10 12 inches 25 30 cm below the waist Vertical measurements are taken from and to the bottom of the elastic bands It is important to use the elastic bands throughout all measuring Don t remove the elastic before all necessary measurements have been taken Do not tighten the measuring tape as this will distort the measurements Except for pants cuff circumference and skirt dress length all measurements are body measurements DO NOT ADD ANY EASE to the measurements The program does it for you If you prefer to wear pants or skirts lower than your natural waist take a second waist measurement at the location you want the waistband to fall Make note of this second measurement for measurements 3 12 13 17 and 18 For all other garments you should use your natural waistline BE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL WHEN TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS WRITTEN IN RED These are crucial for good fitting patterns After you take all the measurements take these important measurements again You can measure in either inches or centimeters Make your measurements accurate to the nearest 1 4 or 1 2 cm Name Date 1 Neck Circumference Measure around lowest part of neck at the base 2 Bust Circumference Marked with elastic Measure around the fullest part of the chest keeping the tape high at the back Waist Circumference Measure waist at the elastic tape Abdomen Circumference Measured at the level where abdomen circumference
73. e you re not in the middle of some other command check the status bar 2 Make sure the program version you are using is supposed to offer drawing and editing commands I ve purchased the program but it tells me only have XX number of days to use it If you see this message after you ve purchased the Deluxe Editor or higher it means you haven t registered the program yet Go to the Registration form on the Settings menu and follow the directions there See Registering PatternMaker for more details I can t install a macro collection All the macro collections require a password to install them You receive the password when you order either in an e mail if you order by download or on the macro package if you order through the mail After the collection is installed be sure to write down the password since you will need it to install future macro updates The lines on the printed pattern are too light Set your printer to its lowest resolution Lower resolution means fewer dots per inch fewer dots per inch means each dot is larger When PatternMaker prints something it prints each line one dot wide Therefore if the printer is printing larger dots the pattern lines are thicker darker See Configure LINE WIDTH a 7 Troubleshooting amp Support can t make this command work Every command has detailed step by step instructions in the Reference section of the Help file It takes a long time to open the file browser when
74. ections here e Read the rest of Chapter 2 Getting around in the program e Read the sections on editing Don t get bogged down if there s something you don t understand at once e Read the remaining chapters of the manual Use the Reference Menu Commands sections to look up any commands you don t understand e Make some patterns on your own Remember this is what you bought PatternMaker for The fastest way to learn is by doing this is as true for PatternMaker as for anything else You ll find that you don t need to know every single command before you can start getting to work e Read the rest of the manual systematically Try every command at least once Use the manual and the Help system together to help you learn PatternMaker You can access context sensitive Help by typing lt gt at any time during a command The first sections of the manual explain the basic concepts The Reference section gives the details of how each command works Once you learn how to do a few commands you can start using PatternMaker to make your own patterns As you get comfortable with the program and develop your own techniques keep referring back to the manual and you will keep learning new things If you take an organized approach to learning this program you will be making patterns in a short time Getting help There are several avenues available to you if you need help 1 First check the Help file It has been expanded to make it eas
75. ed who the pattern is for etc This description is optional but it is very useful when you want to locate the file later Type a name for your file or select a file from the list If the filename you select or type already exists that file will be overwritten If you type a new name a new file is created PatternMaker automatically adds the PAT extension Click the Save buiton File Menu Commands Focus picture confirms the type of file that you re saving Click this icon to create 4 new folder icons or list details Shows style options and Measurements used Click in the test area to add replace with your own comments Crested on 3912 2010 Bared on Fitting bodce sloper Bodice Style Princess line to shoulder Meck Cre 15 453 Bust Cie 37 795 Waist Cic 30 709 Abdomen Cire 37 402 Type a file _ name 7 Show Explores ee File panne Fie type Patten Fies pat Cancel You can use the Explorer tree to see exactly where youre saving the file See also Folders and file organization SAVE command PRINT command File gt Print The PRINT command prints the entire drawing automatically using as many pages as necessary to cover the whole pattern PatternMaker will print to any Windows compatible printing device When you click the Print icon or select Print from the File menu the Print Preview
76. ed in places other than the default folder latin foe aren al BP o B ahmed Bu piek iie Tani Fipa ipg Suh Fa St Hiii igi Lr Mate bir H Tee __ oo oo mo Vetoes Vol l beatae cla bekwed ction i Dopamin Somes Somer Togi etree Bai ha e aji a a a Phaea bari ee opiera cht a parir hren edt aima aaj La be aa y H File cate j 2 Learning the Basics With the tree hidden your files can always be found in one place and you have a larger window available for viewing files and folders A Delgi a game ti cope a i E aR ABD dr hy F i ri lLeees Lame loon Pl fo k i Lek i LF l Praia IIa ror TTL h AN T ff 15 i j ki AR L a 1 all Hai i tase re Mater i 1 l 1 n p om L P i 2 3 Getting around in PatternMaker Interacting with the program It is possible to select customize and print a pre designed garment with little more than a dozen mouse clicks But you want to do more with PatternMaker right To do so you need to become familiar with the viewing editing and drawing commands You will learn e how to change your view of what s on the screen e how to use the mouse in PatternMaker e different ways to activate a command e steps in using commands e how to use X and Y coordinates Looking around PAN and ZOOM commands There are several tools you can use to view different parts of your draw
77. eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaeeneeessenseneeensonsenesensonens 122 9 Gemo HEID saia a Ea 123 A GIOSSARY diin a 123 Index 126 Introduction Welcome to PatternMaker 1 1 Welcome to Pattern Maker PatternMaker is a computer aided design CAD program designed especially for clothing pattern design PatternMaker makes it easy and fast to make clothing patterns and lets you automatically resize your patterns In short PatternMaker lets you do everything you used to do with scissors pencil and paper but much faster This program has many features that are different from any other program but you can learn to use it quickly with this manual All PatternMaker programs include e Custom patterns Sizes don t matter Use PatternMaker s collections of pre designed garments to create basic patterns from your own measurements For pants for example you can tell PatternMaker your waist hip and leg length measurements and the pattern will be mathematically drawn to fit you e Printing PatternMaker lets you print your patterns on any printer that is supported by Windows including desktop printers plotters and print to fax programs Deluxe Editor adds e Editing Use the pre designed patterns as a starting point for your own unique designs Practice pattern alterations on a pattern that you know already fits you e Measurement tables Save your measurements in a file so you don t have to type them in for every pattern Save measurement ta
78. end points will allow you to rotate objects to align with each other or with a horizontal or vertical line e Base point and distance Click with LM somewhere to indicate the base point then type a number and lt Enter gt The number represents either inches or centimeters depending on the Units you are working in PatternMaker calculates a rotation angle such that the selected point moves the specified distance This is for certain pattern layout procedures that require you to rotate an object for a measured distance You don t have to select the above choices from a list Just start entering the information and PatternMaker will figure out which method you are using If you want to cancel the command click RM or press lt ESC gt until the command name is purple and you can read on the command line Cancel Command If the Right mouse Context menu is set On in Settings Configure default after clicking RM or press lt ESC gt you will get a menu to choose from Select Cancel Command ERASE command Edit gt Erase The ERASE command erases one or more objects Procedure 1 Click on the Erase icon or click Erase on the Edit menu The command name ERASE will appear in green on the right side of the status bar The prompt on the command line says Select object selection done is RightMouse 2 Click LM on the object s to erase As you click on objects they will be highlighted If you select something by accident just clic
79. ere you want them to end up 6 When the pieces reach the desired location click LM to release them If you want to move pieces off the edge of the screen use the ZOOM or PAN functions to see where you are going You can use ZOOM and or PAN even if you re in the middle of another command If you want to cancel the command click RM or press lt ESC gt until the command name is purple and you can read on the command line Cancel Command If the Right mouse Context menu is set On in Settings Configure default after clicking RM or press lt ESC gt you will get a menu to choose from Select Cancel Command ROTATE command Edit gt Rotate The ROTATE command rotates one or more objects around a center point Procedure 1 Click the Rotate icon or select Rotate from the Edit menu The command name ROTATE will appear in green on the right side of the status bar The prompt on the command line says Select object selection done is RightMouse 2 Click LM on the object s to rotate You can select and unselect as many objects as you want by repetitive clicking The command line will Keep you informed as objects are selected and unselected If you want to rotate a whole pattern piece be sure to select all of its pieces i e darts in a bodice piece grainline ina sleeve etc 3 If you are done with selecting objects click RM If the Right mouse Context menu is set On you will get a menu to choose from Select Done Selecting 5 Re
80. erience by pointing out useful things you may not be aware of Welcome to PatternMaker bd Select C Use a pre designed garment macro f Open a blank drawing area C Open a saved pattern View what s New in Version 7 5 C View the Quick Start Manual C Exit Do above by default on start M Display Tip of the Day If the Display tip of the day checkbox is marked the next dialog box that opens displays the tip H Tips and Hints T Sel This screen shows a quick tip each time the program is run We encourage you to read these tips as they will help you to learn the features of Patternhl aker These Tipe and Hints are also available from the main Help menu Do not show Tip of the day lt Previous Tip Nest Tip gt If you do not wish to view the Tip of the Day just clear the checkbox on the Start Form or the Tips and Hints form If you have turned off the Start Form you can display it again with an option on the Configure form CALCULATOR Help gt Help Calculator selecting this option will launch the Windows calculator This tool can be useful as you work with your pattern if you need to add measurements together etc MANUALS Help Menu Commands When you select the Manuals command the folder Documentation in PatternMaker will be opened In this folder you will find all the available documentation about working with PatternMaker like the manuals of each version and the Quick Star
81. eseeeeeeeeeeeneeeeeeneoneenenaeenes 4 Going Further 1 Customizing PatternMaker ccccccceseseecceeeseeeeseneeeesonseessensonseeesenseneseeseneees 2 SNO LAV ONS aroia med penvouseduabendesmorcsacteneedemewians 3 Types Of MNOS sicoor iaa A A E a a 4 Overview all Snap modes sssnssnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nnna 5 Reference Menu Commands 1 Pile Menu GOmmMman a aa iaa aaa aaa O o h W N 6 Appendix Using Windows dialogs instead of Launch Pad 1 Create a personal measurement table ccecceeeeeeeeeeeeneeeeeeeeenseeeeeeeeneeeeeensonees 2 MACRO COMMANA heuiia a a a 3 DAVE a pattern ies a a A E a a E E 4 OPEN COMMMANG sson e a a a N a 7 Troubleshooting amp Support 1 Frequently asked questions ccecceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeseneeeesenseneeeeseasenesensoneeeesensonees Draw Menu CommandS aiicscesdaicnccsticacien dace westacssiesiacenscstiveciestecmveststinsastaeee eas Edit Menu CommandsS acsoacesicecacewscneiiehcadeastadeaddeacscaeacensateasetaaavectiulaeedeavecaceiavieaneds View Menu CommandsS snnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nnnm Settings Menu Commands cccsscssscseecesseessessonsecneecseecaeeeseoessonssonsecseenseenaes Help Menu CommandS ssnnnnnnnnnnnunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nnn 2 bgt as 2 Contents 2 Identifying and solving problems ccccceeseee
82. ference Menu Commands The prompt on the command line says Rotate about what point To select the right point it is very helpful to turn on first the Snap Endpoint If you want to cancel the command select Cancel Command instead of Done Selecting 4 Click on the point you want the pieces to rotate around like the center of a clock The prompt on the command line says Rotation angle or base point of rotation 5 You can enter the rotation angle in one of three ways e Angle Type in the number of degrees you want to rotate the object s Your objects will rotate counterclockwise left that many degrees To rotate the objects 90 degrees type 90 and press lt ENTER gt To go 90 degrees clockwise right type 270 and press lt ENTER gt There s no cursor on the command line and you don t have to click there just type the numbers After you press lt ENTERs the pieces rotate and you are done with the command e Base point and end point The base point is like a handle that you use to pick up the object s Click with LM somewhere to indicate the base point Next move the mouse around and watch the object s rotate around the center point As you do this you will see two cyan bluish lines which indicate the angle of rotation between the two points When the object has rotated as much as you want click LM to end the rotation and drop the objects s Hint Using Snap To Endpoint or Snap To Grid when you select the start and
83. g as before ZOOM OUT Zoom out by a factor of two This means the drawing area contains twice as big an area as before See also ZOOM command ZOOM ALL command PAN command ZOOM ALL command View gt Zoom ZOOM ALL zooms in or out so all objects in the current drawing are visible Procedure e Select ZOOM ALL from the View Zoom menu or press the lt END gt key e The scale will be changed and the picture redrawn so that all objects in the drawing can be seen Note Any objects on layers that are turned off will be invisible and they will be ignored in calculating the extent of the drawing See also ZOOM command ZOOM IN OUT command PAN command 5 Reference Menu Commands REFRESH command The REFRESH command redraws the entire PatternMaker screen area Occasionally Windows leaves stray marks in the PatternMaker window Use this function to clear these up Procedure e Select Refresh from the View menu e The screen refreshes COMMANDLINE AT TOP command View gt Commandline at top By default the command line prompt is set to the bottom of the screen This position can be changed to the to of the screen with the Commandline at top command Moving the command line to the top will make the lines better readable Procedure Edit Settings Help 1 Select Commandline at top from the View menu pyme 2 Click the checkbox before the Command line at top EHE Page Grid F12 The command line will be moved to t
84. gave suggestions for new features and generously gave their time to help with testing Tamara Vlasuk Brian Pickrell Jim Pickrell Eugenie Naber Contributors Note about manual contents Thea Botter This manual includes documentation of features offered in the Basic Viewer Cover logo by Please note that you may not always see exactly what these J K Smith Designs pais show because they could show features of a higher PatternMaker Software PO Box 3081 Redmond WA 98073 www patternmakerusa com PatternMaker 7 5 Help Table of Contents 1 Introduction 1 Welcome to PatternMaker ccccccceceeeeeeeeseecesesceeeseeeeseesesesensesensesoesnseeses 2 Manual conventions cicsccnccesaccasccsceuanmseciaaeewaccsacandenimcacaieuuneasascacewaherussedeniacanacsances 3 TIMEOUT TOR DaSiCS nirna nna a a a a a A Staing the Progra crinii a a aaa Eaa 2 Learning the Basics 1 Program overview ssssssssnsnnsnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nnmnnn nnmnnn 2 LAUNGCHP ad INL ACE sssusa aaa aaa a aaa aaa aaa a a 3 Getting around in PatternMaker cccssceeseceeeeeeseeeeeeeeeeeeeseeneseneeeneeenseeeeoeenens 3 Patterns and Printing 1 Using the pre designed garments c cccccceseeeeeeeseeeeeeeeseeneeeeseesensenseeneeneeeeeoneees 2 Fabric yardage and pattern layout sssasnnsnunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nn 3 Printing and assembling the pattern ccccseceeeseeeeeee
85. gistration could not successfully be done eg because you have no registrations left or you do not have internet connection you will get a message of the reason When this reason is not helpful please contact us at support patternmakerusa com CREATE MEASUREMENT TABLE command Settings gt Create Measurements Use this command to save a personal table of measurements for each user Already with PatternMaker Basic Reader you can save measurement tables Procedure 1 Select Create Measurements from the Settings menu A dialog box opens showing the Master Measurement Table s MMT files that are provided by the macro designer This is a template file that shows which body measurements are required by that person s designs Each designer will provide his her own MMT file and they are not interchangeable 2 Select the Master Measurement Table for the designer whose macro you are using and click the Open button Chern acter benura Taske a Sheni Fii 3 z e L oF IG MERRER TET team Bes pele yaja ae An Gee bauer oe pater bromo pieun decor 3 Replace the default numbers with your own measurements This information is taken from your measurement chart included with each macro collection Remember to use decimal numbers so 8 3 4 inches is 8 75 inches and so forth Type 8 75 and not 8 75 See the Fraction Conversion Table 107 Settings Menu Commands 4 Click the OK bu
86. gure Configure Defaults Customizing PatternMaker Set grid spacing This setting adjusts the grid spacing The spacing is measured in whatever units inches or cm you are using Procedure 1 Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu The Configure Options form opens 2 The Alignment Grid section displays the current spacing between grid points 1 j e Abgnment Gnd Dk Grd On tado Histone 3 To change the grid spacing you must turn the grid on Type the number you want and then click the Add button to return to the drawing screen See also Set measurement units SNAP commands TOGGLE GRID command Configure Configure Defaults Show hide Page Grid The PAGE GRID option is accessed by a field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure or Configure Defaults form found on the Settings menu This setting shows or hides the page layout grid This is also an option on the View menu or you can use the lt F12 gt hot key ater ENE F Show Page Gnd Show Yardage Geil The size of this grid is determined by the size of the paper you are using in your printer It displays the actual printable area not the paper size A change of printer or a different paper size will affect the appearance of the page grid See also Page layout grid PRINT command Configure Configure Defaults 4 Going Further Show hide Yardage Grid This option is accessed by a field on the Program Settings tab of th
87. he Zoom icon or select Zoom from the View menu Then follow any of the following options scale Type F You will be prompted for a number and the scale will be set to that value The larger the number the larger objects will appear on your screen e 3 makes all objects appear three times larger than before e 25 makes all objects appear 1 4 their previous size window Click theWindow icon or of type W This option draws a rectangle Click on a point at one corner of the area you want to view ie upper left Next click on the opposite corner of the area you want to view ie lower right The scale will be set so that this window fills the screen This is the default option all Click the icon All or type A The scale will be set so that all objects in the drawing are in view Objects on layers that are turned off are not considered This has the same effect as pressing the lt END gt key previous Type P Resets the scale to its last value The ZOOM options can be selected with icons or hot keys All the icons and hot keys can be used at any time even when you are in the middle of another command These Hot Key assignments can be changed on the Hot Keys tab of the Configure form found on the Settings menu View Menu Commands See also ZOOM IN OUT command ZOOM ALL command PAN command Configure options ZOOM IN OUT commands ZOOM IN Zoom in by a factor of two This means all objects are shown twice as bi
88. he main drawing window to move pieces around before you get to the Print Preview window However if you use the print scale options in the preview window you might find that you need to adjust the position of the pieces slightly to get an important area off a page intersection Cilla se 100 C sox C o5 Fito Page Scale Yaedage Gid a aq Unset All No of pages S Printer Setup Alz ea Cancel Original position of pattern A Pint Scaler 100 C s0 C 2 C Fito Page Pattern moved away from 1 edge of page i i C Seske Y dage Gid al a al Unselect All Position of pattern using horizontal offset The numbers represent the measurement units you re using either inches or centimeters Click the up and down arrow buttons to change the offset amount Each click changes the number by the increment in the lower increment field Note These offset options do not affect the position of your pattern in the main drawing area This feature only changes the printed output Printing and assembling the pattern Print scaled pattern Sometimes you might want to print a half scale or quarter scale pattern for testing or some other special purpose The Print Preview window gives you a very simple way to accomplish this When you first enter the Print Preview window your pattern is shown at full size PP p a je i i O 50 m C 25 Fibo Page z r r
89. he top of the Yardage Grid Crr F12 screen just under the Status bar Points Refresh ay An easier way to move the command line is by doubleclicking at the Command line This will also move the line to the opposite place at the screen top or bottom X PatternMaker o H File Draw Edit Points View Symbol Grade Marker Settings Help MM o 63 66 73 54cm SNAP OFF v 0 00 meters PattemMaker Dow J Ef ber PatternMaker Copyright PatternMaker 1994 2013 Command Command line at top Dbl click at line to change the line from top to bottom or vv INA ONEN 5 5 Settings Menu Commands The Settings menu contains commands that control all aspects of how the program looks and behaves as well as users measurement table information Settings Menu Commands SNAP commands The SNAP command sets the snap mode When Snap is on an X will follow the mouse and show the nearest snap point Turn on for instance the Snap Endpoint and turn on also the points with lt F5 gt key and move with your mouse over your drawing You will see that a blue vertex will change from blue to red when you move the mouse over a vertex Snap is used in combination with LINE POLY MOVE and other drawing and editing commands Whenever you click the mouse and there is a snap point near it that point is selected instead of the actual mouse location This lets you make more precise inputs Procedure e
90. help Be careful to enter the right numbers in the right soaces When you are ready to continue click the OK button 6 While the macro is running the mouse pointer icon turns into an hourglass You may have to wait for the macro to run especially if you do not have a fast computer or if the macro you are using is particularly complicated You will know the macro is done when the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow and the prompt Command appears on the status bar IF YOU CANNOT SEE THE PATTERN PIECES OR IF YOU ONLY SEE PART OF THEM PRESS THE lt END gt KEY TO VIEW ALL THE PIECES IN THE DRAWING The macro will draw your new pattern in the drawing area If there is a drawing on the screen when you run a macro the macro will be added to what is on the screen It may overlap existing pattern pieces If this happens you can use the MOVE command to move things around Use the ZOOM and PAN commands to view different parts of the drawing A macro can be run as many times as you wish You can reuse your own measurement table or you can create File Menu Commands new tables for many different people Once the macro has created the pattern on the screen the drawing can be saved as a PAT file to be opened and printed again later To change the measurements used run the macro again See also Set start locations EXIT command The Exit command closes the PatternMaker program If there is a drawing open you will be given a chance
91. hows or hides the page grid For the following hold down the lt CTRL gt key while typing the given Function key lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt Snap off lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt Snap to grid Also shows the grid if it s turned off lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt Snap to end point lt CTRL gt lt F4 gt Snap to nearest lt CTRL gt lt F5 gt Snap to ortho lt CTRL gt lt F6 gt Snap to mid point lt CTRL gt lt F7 gt Snap to intersection lt CTRL gt lt F8 gt Snap to offset lt CTRL gt lt F9 gt Snap to distance from end point lt CTRL gt lt F12 gt Yardage Grid on off See also Using Snap Modes For zooming in and panning Getting around in PatternMaker lt PgUp gt Zoom Out lt PgDown gt Zoom In lt Home gt Zoom in on mouse lt End gt Zoom All show all objects arrow keys Pan Left Right Up Down See also Looking around PAN and ZOOM Other hot keys New Ctrl N Open Ctrl O Save Ctrl S Print Ctrl P Macro Ctrl M Undo Ctrl Z Activating a command After you activate a command you will usually be asked to select the object s on which the action will be performed This is done by left clicking on one or more objects Every command has at least two steps that you must either complete or cancel before you can do anything else and some commands that ask you to select things have more than two steps If you are in the middle of a commana this is indicated by the command name in green at the far right side of the status bar
92. ier to find what you need You can access the Help file from the Help menu or by typing 2 Next check the Index of the User s Manual and the Index of the Tutorial You may be able to find a reference to something you didn t notice in the Help file 3 If it s a piece of terminology that s puzzling you check the Glossary 4 Finally you can contact technical support by e mail at support patternmakerusa com Also consider joining the PatternMaker User s Group e mail discussion list Check the PatternMaker web site for instructions on how to join www patternmakerusa com You can use the link in the About box located on the Help menu to automatically launch your browser and go directly to our site 5 As long as you re there check the online Knowledge Base for an answer to your question We ve posted answers to many frequently asked questions and you may find what you need in that reference Program overview Folders and file organization Program Files By default PatternMaker expects to find all necessary files in the C Program Files PatternMaker Software PatternMaker 7_5 folder User Files When you open the program for the first time a special folder is created This is located at My Documents PatternMaker Personal Files Under this folder are several sub folders for personal measurement tables saved patterns and your PatternMaker configuration files If your computer has more than one user profile each profile
93. ill be highlighted selected Note objects are not selected if they are on a layer that is locked or turned off e Indicate that you re finished selecting RM Note you can use All Objects in combination with either or both of the methods above before ending the selection set Unselecting If you accidently select something by mistake just click on it again LM to un select it An object will be un highlighted its original appearance when you unselect it Using Snap modes One of the most helpful and most under used features of PatternMaker is the many Snap modes A Snap mode makes the cursor jump to a precise location so you don t have to worry about being so precise as you move the mouse around When you are in a Snap mode and you enter a point with the mouse the snap point closest to the mouse location is entered rather than where the mouse cursor is actually pointing This makes it possible to enter a point with 100 accuracy You will often need to switch between snap modes while you are in the middle of a command Therefore all of the Snap modes can be selected with either icons or Hot Keys Example Move a skirt piece so that its center back point is aligned with the grid 1 Activate the MOVE command 2 Select object to move LM on skirt piece RM to finish selecting Getting around in PatternMaker Turn on Snap to Endpoint lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt Cursor jumps to nearest vertex Select base point for
94. ing ZOOM changes the scale of the drawing appearing to move you closer or further away PAN moves you up down right or left Remember that your drawing doesn t change when you zoom or pan only your view of it changes Think of the drawing area of the screen as the viewfinder on a camera that moves around to get different views of the drawing All the various ZOOM and PAN commands can be selected either with icons or from the Zoom submenu on the View menu Most can also be selected with Hot Keys Special Zoom and Pan Keys PatternMaker provides some special short cut keys to make it easier to activate the most commonly used ZOOM and PAN modes Getting around in PatternMaker lt PgUp gt Zoom Out lt PgDown gt Zoom In lt Home gt Zoom in on mouse lt End gt Zoom All show all objects arrow keys Pan Left Right Up Down ZOOM with the mouse scroll wheel If you point your mouse into the blue command line area or a blank part of the icon bar you can zoom in and out with your mouse scroll wheel See also Looking around PAN and ZOOM Different ways to select a command There are several ways to select a command with PatternMaker Icons menus drop down boxes typed commands Hot Keys Most commands are accessible in more than one way Use whichever is most convenient at the moment When you have selected a command the command s name appears in green in the Status Bar When you finish the command its n
95. ion markers Special features let you pack the pieces together for maximum material efficiency set cut ratios and print reports showing material used and other information IMPORTANT The Help is written for all versions of PatternMaker It is possible in the Help that we write and explain about features which are not available in your version In the chapter LEARNING THE BASICS In Icon Overview you can exactly see which version contains which features TT _2 1 Introduction In the PDF manual of your program you will only see the available tools and commands of your version 1 2 Manual conventions As you read through the User s Manual or consult the Help file you will notice that some words or phrases appear in different typefaces Keys to press on your keyboard Represented by capital letters enclosed in brackets example lt ESC gt means Press this key example lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt means Press the first key and hold it while you press the second key then release both When the computer is telling you something This font is used to represent the instructions that appear on the command line example Rotate around what point Things to select from the menus Menu items appear in quotes and the name of the menu appears in bold type example Click Save on the File menu Mouse clicks example LM or RM means click the left mouse button or click the right mouse button 1 3 Time out for basics WINDOWS BA
96. is added button and grain lines are drawn etc pattern details And in the end a custom fit pattern is drawn on the screen The designer who creates the macro can make it very simple SLEEVE LENGTH C Long E With PatternMaker the pre designed garments are a modular feature You don t have to be limited to one person s or even one company s idea of what a popular pattern is There are many creative people around the world who are developing all kinds of macros that can be used with PatternMaker It s important to understand that the options available in each macro depend entirely on the whims of the designer Some macros will have style pictures some may not Some have an option to add seam allowance some do not Some are for sale others may be given away at no cost Using the pre designed garments Frequently Asked Questions Where do the macros come from Can create my own macros Can adjust the body measurements after a pattern is on the screen How to run a macro These are the basic steps 1 Click the Macro icon or select Macro from the File menu 2 Select a designer 3 Select a garment collection 4 Select a pre designed garment macro 5 Follow the options in the macro choose style options if available and enter your measurements 6 Your pattern is drawn on the screen See also LaunchPad interface Style option pictures Most of the pre designed garments have at least one style option
97. k on it again to un highlight it You can select and unselect as many objects as you want by repetitive clicking 3 If you are done with selecting objects click RM If the Right mouse Context menu is set On you will get a menu to choose from Select Done Selecting The object s you selected will be erased Note If the Right mouse Context menu is set off Although you can abort many commands by pressing the lt ESC gt key the ERASE command cannot be aborted Edit Menu Commands If you press the lt ESC gt key while an object is highlighted it will be erased If you want to cancel the command either un select all objects and then press lt ESC gt or go ahead and finish the command and then immediately use the UNDO command before doing anything else 5 4 View Menu Commands The View menu contains all the commands that have to do with what you see in your drawing and how you see things Many elements of the PatternMaker environment can be turned off and on as needed These elements are described below The particular menu items you see will depend on which version of PatternMaker you are using Not all commands are available in all versions TOGGLE PAGE GRID command si View gt Page Grid This command shows or hides the page layout grid Procedure e Select Page Grid from the View menu A check mark appears in front of the menu item if the page grid is turned on e You can also use the shortcut key lt F12 gt for
98. l Snap functions at your Status bar iconbar or with Hot Keys Here an overview of all Snap modes that will make your work much easier Name Snap Off Hot Key lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt What It Does Turns off any active Snap See also Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Name Hot Key What It Does Why Use It Basic Snap modes Overview all Snap modes When you want the cursor to move around normally Snap to Grid lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt The cursor jumps from one grid dot to another And you can customize the size of the grid Align the edges of objects quickly move something a distance equal to the size of the grid Snap to Endpoint lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt The cursor jumps from one point in an object a vertex to another Essential for moving individual points excellent for selecting a rotation point Snap To Nearest lt CTRL gt lt F4 gt The cursor jumps to the contour of an object Useful if you need to select one object when you have several close together or overlapping Also used if you need to draw a line exactly to the edge of an object Snap Orthogonal lt C TRL gt lt F5 gt The cu
99. l fit well 3 Patterns and Printing If you get an error message _ value out of range in line coord 32 33 sqrt op op oke oke oke it means there is a measuring error so drastic that the program is unable to draw the patterns at all Front shoulder does not meet armscye line Then either back length is too little or waist height too much It may also be that shoulder length has some influence shoulder length may be too short Also in some other cases there may be reason for checking shoulder length measurement If shoulder is too short there will be a corner inward where front and back shoulder meet at shoulder tip and vice versa Setting up a measurement table Set up a measurement table by selecting Create Measurements from the Settings menu e Each designer provides a master measurement table that acts as a template indicating which body measurements are required for his or her designs e Select the MMT file provided by the designer whose macro you are planning to use the name of this file will be provided in your macro instructions e Enter your name at the top and replace the default numbers with your own measurements e Save the table Your new table is saved with an MTB extension so you can never accidentally overwrite the Original template file See also CREATE MEASUREMENT TABLE command Use your measurement table in a macro e Click on the MAC icon B The Macro LaunchPad opens e Choo
100. ll pattern will always be the same color as the object itself There are several ways to change the fill pattern Status Bar Use the Fill Pattern drop down box on the status bar and select a fill pattern as described below Layer a 6 00 28 00 in GRID 0 77 yards PattemMaker Afore Pattern Icon Activate the PATTERN command by clicking the Pattern icon and choose a fill pattern as described below Configure Form Use the Fill Pattern field on the Program Settings tab of the Configure form The Configure form is found on the Settings menu Select a fill pattern as described below and then click the OK button on this form to return to the drawing screen 4 Going Further Es Configure Options Progam Settings Background Im Drew Seling PatterM aker Tl Lane Width its Line Sile Choosing a fill pattern Regardless of which method you use you will then see a drop down menu or a dialog box Select Fill Pattern Ft eet SANNA There are eight options for the fill style six patterns plus solid and empty The selection at the top is the current pattern the default is EMPTY which draws unfilled objects After you make a selection it remains in effect until you change it again or until you restart PatternMaker Note Not all printers handle filled objects the same way Make sure you like the way yours prints before you use very many different fill
101. lso need a way to supply input to PatternMaker as you are drawing your pattern PatternMaker uses a grid system of X Y coordinates somewhat like the N S E W designations of street addresses If it s been a while since that high school math class here s a quick refresher course Imagine one horizontal line and one vertical line coming together in an intersection The point where they cross is called the origin This is the Zero point The origin is given the coordinates 0 0 Every position on the screen can be represented by a pair of numbers which represents its position relative to the origin The first number in each pair represents the distance from the origin in the X or horizontal direction The second number represents the distance from the origin in the Y or vertical direction The X and Y are divided by an sign This means X Y The horizontal line to the right of Zero is the positive X direction to the left is the negative X direction The vertical line above zero is the positive Y direction and below is the negative Y direction see diagram The lines extend infinitely in all four directions To find the position of a point simply count the number of units this is either inches or cm depending on your program configuration to the right or left and then count the number of units up or down That pair of numbers is the coordinate position At any given moment your view of the drawing area is limited to the
102. m The Configure form is found on the Settings menu Select a new color as described below and then click the Okay button on this form to return to the drawing screen Configure Options Program Settings Background I Loree echt i r Curent Font Patter ake 1 Choosing a color Regardless of which method you use you will then see a dialog box vi Color Selection acalel Use default layer coor Sect cushom ooku Customizing PatternMaker You can choose either the default layer color or any custom color If you want a custom color click the Select button and the standard Windows color dialog box will open Color E S E Eu EEn Bi E mE i f EEEE NTNEH BREE Eee BEBEEEEEE EE imi ime Hue 160 aq Sat 0 Green 0 Ce umo e Add to Custom Colors If you choose any color other than the layer default your choice will override the default layer color Any object that you draw after making this change will be in the color you selected regardless of the layer s default color Make your color selection and then click the OK button to return to the drawing screen See also Default layer colors Configure Configure Defaults Configure Program Options Program Settings Configure PATTERN This command selects a new fill pattern for any new polygon objects that are added to the drawing It does not change the fill pattern of any existing objects The fi
103. markings 94 PatternMaker registering 106 PatternMaker basics 3 patterns assembling printed pages 60 custom fit 91 printing 88 98 personal measurement tables 48 107 108 109 point names show hide 100 points entering using snap modes 29 selecting 28 29 30 show hide 99 unselecting 29 polar coordinates 31 33 portrait vs landscape 55 91 pre designed garments 35 37 38 39 combining 39 40 Print a measurement table 49 print a selected pattern piece 91 print a specific page 55 print at 1 4 or 1 2 scale 58 print columns first 59 PRINT command 88 print measurements 49 print offset o print only a portion of a drawing 90 Print options 59 print preview 54 PRINT REGION command 90 print rows first 59 PRINT SELECT command 91 print setup 55 PRINT SETUP command 91 print table print to a single page printable area printed pages assembling printing a pattern printing out a pattern program comparison program version number program versions prompt prompt line prompt op top putting a pattern together Q quit R reaching technical support redo a command REDO command REFRESH command REGISTER command relative polar coordinates relative X Y coordinates rename a file repeating a command reset layer settings to default restore default layer settings right mouse right click right click context menus right mouse RM ROTATE command rows vs columns rules of using the mouse running a macr
104. mmands e Draw Settings e Start Folders e Grid Settings e Undo History e File History e Dot Width e XArc Pieces e Active Layer e Snap Mode e Dim Settings e Meas Units e Fabric Width e Show Page Grid e Show Yardage Grid e Show ID Obj Panel e show Vertices e Show Start Form e Use Context Menus e Show Shared Files e Show Explorer Tree e Use Windows Browsers e Offset Lines e White Background e Notch scale See also Configure Status Bar Determine the appearance of objects Set where LaunchPad opens Toggle grid on off and change grid spacing Change number of steps you can Undo Change number of most recently used files on File menu Change radius of dot pattern markings Change the smoothness of curves Selects the active layer Selects a snap mode Change how Dimension objects are displayed Select inches or centimeters as your working units Define the width of fabric you will use for your pattern layout Turn page grid on off Turn yardage grid on off Turn ID Object Panel on off Turn points on off Show Start Form when PatternMaker opens Turn right click context menus on off Show the Shared Files location for opening and saving files Show the Tree view in the LaunchPad windows Toggle LaunchPad interface Toggle Offset Lines XArc mode for drawing curves Toggle background color from white to black Open Arrow form directly after adding a grading arrow Set the default units for opening and saving
105. move LM on center back point Turn on Snap to Grid lt CTRL gt lt F4 gt Cursor jumps to grid points Select destination for move LM on a grid point MOVE command is finished to oS oS Here are the most common Snap modes Name Snap Off Hot Key lt CTRL gt lt Fi gt What It Does Turns off any active Snap Why Use It When you want the cursor to move around normally Name Snap to Grid Hot Key lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt What It Does The cursor jumps from one grid dot to another And you can customize the Why Use It size of the grid Align the edges of objects quickly move something a distance equal to the size of the grid Name Snap to Endpoint Hot Key lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt What It Does The cursor jumps from one point in an object a vertex to another Why Use It Essential for moving individual points excellent for selecting a rotation point The other Snap modes are discussed in Overview all Snap modes Special selection tips e If it s hard to tell what you re selecting try using the Show Vertices command lt F5 gt to show the vertices and or zoom in lt F3 gt to get a better view e For text objects click on the lower left corner e For polygon objects pattern pieces and shapes click LM on one of its points or anywhere along the edge not in the middle of the object e For commands that refer to objects clicking on a vertex always selects the entire object Try using the Snap To Endpoin
106. n and the second number is the Y or vertical position See X and Y Coordinates for full details These numbers represent either inches or centimeters depending on the measurement units you chose during program setup d BRID Tip You can change between the inch and metric formats at any time by simply clicking on the Mouse Coordinates box in the status bar 2 Learning the Basics Right Mouse menu The Right Mouse menus provide guidance while you re getting used to the left click right click circumstances in PatternMaker If you accidentally right click when you should left click the Right Mouse menu guides you toward the correct choice You can also access Help for the selected command If you re using a command with just one step such as a drawing command the Right Mouse menu will let you either cancel the command or keep drawing If the command involves selecting things the menu is slightly different It will let you cancel the command continue selecting or indicate that you are done selecting If you no longer want to use these context menus the control setting is available on the Configure or Configure Defaults form on the Settings menu lf Show Stark Form Iw Use Right Mouse Menu A ba din Shared Files T ab Tip When you do not want to use the Context menu any longer We advice you to use the Right mouse when you are done with selecting points or objects confirming the selection and
107. ng at the Command line will move the line to the top or bottom of the screen Moving the command line to the top will make it better readable Most inputs you type into the program such as coordinates will also appear on the command line However for certain commands your inputs will go into a dialog box instead When the program is ready for you to choose a new command a drawing tool editing function etc it will display the command prompt which looks like this Command If you don t see this it means you are still in the middle of another command The menu bar is where you select a command These menus work just like menus in any other Windows program with shortcut keys and some sub menus The icon bar provides shortcuts to some frequently used commands The icons will change depending on what step of acommand you are in For example icons for editing commands do not appear if you do not have any objects on the screen to edit Right click on a button to get help about that command The status bar gives you information about the current drawing conditions drawing color layer line style mouse coordinates etc as well as the current or most recent command Note you can change the with of the several fields in the status bar by moving your cursor over the side lines of a box When you see the divider move it to the right or left just the way you want it It is possible to see the whole layer name by redesigning yo
108. no commas in a number Type 41 5 and not 41 5 You can save personal measurement tables and avoid typing in all your measurements for each pattern See Using Measurement Tables below Combining macro styles You can mix style options from different macros if one pattern has a particular feature you want to add to a different pattern You can run more than one macro on top of each other and move or erase the pieces you don t need Note that you may need to move some points to make sure that adjoining pieces will match properly if they are from two different macros For example if you want to add sleeves to a vest pattern to make a weskit blouse you ll need to make sure that the armscye of the vest matches the armscye of the pattern that the sleeves came from PatternMaker A File Drw Edt Niem Settings Help E NOME OFS porch Ahn iz E E ho l Lape ro F F hao r r rr Po am i P K j i an ae Eg ieee Fo hag ih Lh Pa 7 al owe F ie Fi fi Ha Ah i eee ri i i i F hes r F Fi w i gt i z 1 Py i ae u ew F K 1i F ai on re a F i i ne a Ts al ii fu T F E it it Some points of the vest black need to be moved to match the armscye of the blouse red Using the pre designed garments Tutorial Combining macro styles Skills Run a macro ERASE command MOVE command OFFSET command Snap to
109. o S save a file SAVE AS command SAVE command scale a pattern to print screen 49 56 52 60 54 51 52 53 60 98 2 114 2 103 10 103 51 94 7 123 28 95 103 106 33 31 32 87 27 83 83 23 65 23 65 23 65 23 65 3 22 96 59 60 22 91 17 87 87 58 screen parts of scroll with the mouse seam allowance fixed width select a command select active layer select pages to print selecting a command selecting all objects selecting objects selecting points selection window set current drawing properties set drawing preferences set grid spacing set preferences set Start locations set Undo history setting measurement units shared files show hide shortcut keys view page grid SHOW NAME command SHOW VERTEX command show hide alignment grid show hide Explorer tree show hide layers show hide page grid show hide points show hide shared files show hide Start form show hide yardage grid shrink drawing to one page SNAP commands Snap modes Snap To Endpoint special selection tips Start form Start form show hide Start locations starting PatternMaker status bar style option pictures 10 12 20 94 26 80 04 55 20 29 28 29 30 28 29 30 29 69 70 71 72 68 64 110 76 18 8 63 T7 20 24 52 100 99 12 98 76 81 64 98 99 77 75 90 65 99 56 104 29 83 28 29 30 9 19 76 4 9 10 112 38 Index T taking measurements 43
110. options on the form click the Advanced button at the bottom of the form e Enter a number in the XArc Pieces field The default of 36 provides a good balance between speed and smooth curves Undo Histowy I pe N File History io I fs aw T Dot Width od xc Pieces i 36 oe Note This setting only affects circles and curves drawn with the POLY command including those drawn by the macros It does not affect the number of segments used for the OFFSET LINES option See also Configure Configure Defaults Configure OFFSET LINES The OFFSET LINES setting applies specifically to objects drawn using the OFFSET or SEAM ALLOWANCE command The SEAM ALLOWANCE command always uses offset lines it is an optional setting for the OFFSET command When active this option draws a curved line as a series of tiny line segments There are certain circumstances in which this can improve the shape of an Offset object seam allowance However if you choose this option you can no longer change the shape of the curve by moving the corner control point because there no longer is a control point The Offset object can still be edited by moving the individual line segments but it is vastly more difficult and laborious Normal Offset Offset Lines Notice that the original object drawn with the CIRCLE or POLY tool is not affected To toggle this setting on or off select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu
111. or fabric placement automatically adjusts Check the yardage indicator on the status bar to keep track of your fabric yardage h 48 yards Pal p 3 3 Printing and assembling the pattern How do you print a full size pattern from just a desktop printer It s simple If the paper in your printer is too small to print an entire pattern PatternMaker automatically breaks up the pattern into multiple pages Every page has alignment marks in the corners to help you match the sheets together Arrange the pages in rows and columns and you have your pattern PatternMaker will work with any printing device including ink jet printers laser printers ink jet or pen plotters and even programs such as WinFax Keep in mind that the appearance of your printed pattern will vary slightly depending on the capabilities of your printer For instance some printers only print black and white Dotted lines may vary from printer to printer Fill patterns also vary from printer to printer PatternMaker attempts to make identical outputs on all printers but this is not always possible op Printing and assembling the pattern It should however be possible to assure that the patterns are always the same size and very similar in appearance Printing Overview When you have a drawing on the screen that you want to print begin with these simple steps Select your printer Select Print Setup from the File menu
112. out what macros are e talk about how to take proper measurements e use your measurements to create a personal measurement table e use that measurement table to create a custom fit test bodice e print out the pattern and talk about putting it together Your Custom Fit What Are Macros Each PatternMaker macro is a small computer program which is run by PatternMaker You will be asked to make some garment style choices and enter your measurements The program then does some calculations and draws a garment pattern The calculations are the same sort of calculations and measurements a pattern makers uses to draft a pattern with pencil and paper and ruler The resulting pattern is made up of polygon objects which can be modified like any other object in your drawing In other words once you ve made a pattern from a macro you can do anything you like with the results One collection of women s garments comes with your PatternMaker program Many other collections are available separately Why Use A Macro Ever been frustrated with patterns that do not fit Do you buy patterns that fit your hips but not your body Don t you wish you could redraft your patterns to fit YOUR measurements instead of having to use the sizes supplied by a pattern publisher Do you feel overwhelmed by the thought of drafting a pattern from scratch or just want a place to start Macros could be the answer PatternMaker s system of macros create custom fit sewing patte
113. pening PatternMaker Click Yes PatternMaker will open Select in the Welcome form Empty page and click OK When you want to register without selecting the Run as administrator option you will get a message about the way you have to register PatternMaker Registration To register First exit PatternMaker then restart PatternMaker with Right Mouse click selecting Run as administrator Troubleshoot compatibility Open file location Run as administrator Convert Video Edit with Notepad Edit with Vim Spybot Search amp Destroy gt Norton Security Suite b TeraCopy WinMerge Pin to Taskbar Pin to Start Menu Back Up Restore previous versions Send to b Cut Copy Create shortcut Delete R Rio ee j hn alt ae Select in the menu Settings gt Register The Register dialog box opens Y Register PatternMaker oh aa First and LastName Vebby Sewer Email debby email com Serial Number Cancel you asked for a demo 5 Click Ok 4 Type in your name email address and the serial number you received when purchasing PatternMaker or when 5 Reference Menu Commands 6 You will get a message that you are successfully registered and that it is necessary to exit the program and start it again Now PatternMaker will have the required features After that you can open PatternMaker in the normal way without the Run as administrator option selected When the re
114. people around the world creating macros The original collections were produced by a Finnish designer Leena Lahteenmaki She created patterns for basic classic garments Other designers are now producing macros for Renaissance costumes wedding gowns and many other applications PatternMaker Software publishes another program called MacroGenerator which helps designers to create the macros without requiring knowledge of computer programming For information about MacroGen please go to the PatternMaker website Can I create my own macros If you have PatternMaker Professional Studio or higher for drawing the patterns for your macro and you have the unique program Project Editor With Project Editor you can create simple macros for patterns that adjust only in two dimensions standard sizes for example an unusual pillow design or a pattern for a hat If you want to create patterns that will adjust in three dimensions almost any type of clothing you can use a program called MacroGenerator also from PatternMaker Software Click here for more information about MacroGen Can I adjust the body measurements after a pattern is on the screen No Once the pattern is drawn it is defined as a specific size To change the measurements re run the pattern To see more Frequently Asked Questions look also at our website the FAQ chapter Knowledge Base 7 2 identifying and solving problems None of the drawing or editing commands work 1 Make sur
115. plate MMT A measurement template provided by the macro designer which indicates the measurements that need to be taken A personal measurement table is created from the master measurement template file MMT measurement table MTB A list of a user s custom measurements A measurement table is specific to a particular designer s macros pattern collections menu bar The line of words along the top of the PatternMaker window which contains all the program commands object R that PatternMaker draws on the screen Text and pattern shapes are two types of objects origin The position that the coordinates 0 0 are measured from point 1 A vertex of an object 2 a location in the drawing The meaning should be clear from the context polar coordinates A method of describing the location of a point using the length of a line and the direction in degrees in which it points 7 Troubleshooting amp Support polygon Poly One of four types of objects in PatternMaker Any object that is not a Symbol Text or a Dimension object is a Polygon object Polygons can be open or closed and can have any number of vertices radius The distance from the center of a circle to its edge status bar The area of the PatternMaker window under the menu bar This area shows the current drawing color fill pattern line type and other settings and also the current mouse position and the current command text One of four types of object
116. r Leena Lahteenmaki Other designers may require measurements to be taken differently Please be sure to carefully read the instructions that come with each garment collection Measuring Chart for Leena s Women s Garment Collections Master Measurement Table Leena default_ women You will need e four pieces of 1 wide elastic e a measuring tape e something to drape around your neck a necklace or piece of string etc e an assistant to help you measure Using the pre designed garments J neck circ bust circ waist circ abdomen circ hip circ bust span bust height J waist height back length 10 back width 11 shoulder length 12 waist abdm 13 waist hip 14 biceps 15 wrist circ 16 overarm length 17 outside seam 18 crotch depth wo oo Oo On E Oo he Measure bust height iF and waist height 3 around the neck and divide by 2 Do not try to take the measurements yourself Ask someone to help you measure Stand straight but relaxed while being measured You will receive the best results if the measurements are taken over underwear only Place the elastic bands around your bust waist abdomen and hips Keep the elastic bands on their correct places during the whole measuring process Search carefully for the correct places of these bands Hip elastic should be placed at the level where the hip circumference is greatest Examine whether this is at the buttocks 7 8 inches 18 20 cm below th
117. r will put the offset object inside the original object 5 Click the OK button A seam allowance will be drawn around the selected piece If you want to cancel the command without drawing offset click RM or press lt ESC gt until the command name is purple and you can read on the command line Cancel Command If the Right mouse Context menu is set On in Settings Configure default after clicking RM or press lt ESC gt you will get a menu to choose from Select Cancel command The offset object once drawn is an object separate from the original object You can do any of the things with it that you can do with any other PatternMaker drawing object 5 Reference Menu Commands NOTE The OFFSET command may not work well for objects that contain sharp angles or inward bends or that overlap or cross over themselves Most normal pattern pieces will not have this problem unless they contain darts One way to avoid this problem is to draw the dart as a separate object from the main pattern piece Checking the Offset lines box in Configure is important for drawing a precise offset Try changing the OFFSET LINES setting 5 3 Edit Menu Commands PatternMaker has many editing commands that allow you to move change and adjust objects These commands are all found in the Edit menu One thing these commands all have in common is that when you select an object the command applies to the entire object There is a second set of commands which hav
118. re Defaults form found on the Settings menu If you check the Display Tip of the Day box a daily tip will be shown about working with PatternMaker See also Types of files Program overview Tip of the Day The Tip of the Day introduces you to features of Version 7 5 and may help you become familiar with other ways of doing things that you never thought of before Tips and Hints This screen shows a quick tip each time the program is run We encourage You to read these tips as they will help you to learn the features of Patternkl aker These Tipe and Hints are also available from the main Help menu Do not show Tip of the day lt Previous Tip Nest Tip gt The Tip of the Day box appears immediately after the Start Form before you access the drawing area If you don t want to see the Tip of the Day clear the checkbox on the Start form or check the box Do not show Tip of the Day in this form You can also open the Tips box from the PatternMaker Help menu Parts of the screen When you start PatternMaker what you see is the main drawing screen black background or white The standard Windows components the mouse the drop down menus and the dialog boxes that appear from time to time work the same way they do with any other Windows programs Let s stop and see what we re looking at PattemMaker lt A La File Oraw Edit Points View Symbol Grade Settings Help a HE st
119. reman i Soak Bs fo ne Yardage Gnd al al a j Gu j j j IZ f Y Y Y k Select the print scale you want to use You can choose one of the standard scale options or type your own number 100 Bor D 25 t Fit to Page Sooke no Yaedage Gnd al al al Unselect AN The page grid lines will change to reflect the new size of the pattern pieces Note These scale options do not affect the size of your pattern in any way This feature only changes the printed size 3 Patterns and Printing Print options On this part of the form you can choose certain things about the appearance of your pattern printout Print Asea Print Options M Inchide Page labels i Include Algnmert Marks M Inchade File Home By default each printed page has a label in the lower left corner and alignment marks in Rowi ofg P each corner L coum of 5 P If the file has already been saved the file name is also printed Bea late P You can use the check boxes to enable eee disable the print options in various eerie combinations l adra dS I or disable all the options although turning off the alignment marks is not recommended If you have a printer that can use banner or continuous feed paper you may find it convenient to print column by column rather than row by row note how the result will change if you switch from landscape to portrait orientation Printing an
120. rmined by the paper size you are using and the abilities of your printer You can turn this grid off and on with the lt F12 gt shortcut key and you can change your Configuration settings to determine whether the grid is on or off by default when you open the program See also TOGGLE PAGE GRID command es A 3 Patterns and Printing Configure Program Options Program Settings Tutorial Arranging a pattern for printing Skills Page layout grid MOVE command ZOOM commands You already know that you have to tape together the pages that you print And some patterns might have a lot of pages But you can make the job easier by taking a few minutes before printing to examine the layout of the pattern pieces on the screen Remember that the specific layout you see will depend on the garment and measurements you use but we ll use the default measurements of the Fitting Bodice for this example Steps 1 Run the Fitting Bodice macro 2 Turn on the page layout grid lt F12 gt 3 Check for possible problems e small sections of a piece extending onto a new page e darts or text on a page seam line 4 Use the MOVE command This small area of the pattern on its own page would be unnecessarily awkward PuttermakerIOPUAMIL FAT aa ee Pie Dre D Poet Were Symbol HE Mele ka i a oie oe ee N Oar i w i wa i i ael kO i yy hy i ajej i By ae l hy A l a S 4 i hy j The tiniest overlap o
121. rns from your personal measurements These are more than just slopers most of the macros draft complete patterns ready to cut out and sew You can create an entire wardrobe from a single set of measurements You don t have to know anything about flat pattern drafting to get a good fit although if you do you may enjoy using the macros as a starting point for your own designs The macro system also offers unmatched flexibility and expansion opportunities Many different designers can write macros that will work with PatternMaker You re not limited to just the garments that come with the system Will It Really Fit Me The PatternMaker macros have been well tested in real life They are based on a fitting system that has been in use by custom tailors working with pencil and paper for years The collection of macros included with this package have been written by professional tailor Leena Lahteenmaki and all of the patterns have been tested on subjects with a variety of body types and sizes We have found that they will fit nearly everybody large and small More important the measurements are easy to take and the measuring instructions are easy to follow If you do need to make adjustments it s much easier to start with a pattern that already matches your measurements If you make a mistake or want to make a change it s a matter of seconds to redraw a macro with different measuremenis Yes But Will lt Really Fit Me Our macro patterns
122. rsor moves exactly horizontally or vertically When you want to move or draw something directly horizontal or vertical ie lengthening or shortening something etc Snap To Midpoint lt C TRL gt lt F6 gt The cursor jumps to the center between two consecutive vertices When you need to find the middle of a line segment Snap To Intersection lt CTRL gt lt F7 gt The cursor jumps to a location where two line segments meet There does not have to be a vertex at this location If you need to draw or move something to the intersection of two other segments Snap To Offset lt C TRL gt lt F8 gt The cursor jumps to a location a specified distance horizontally and or vertically from an existing vertex Frequently this is not along the contour of an object but out in space somewhere near the object To find a specific distance away from an existing vertex Snap To Measured Distance lt CTRL gt lt F9 gt The cursor jumps to jumps along the contour of an object a specified distance away from an existing vertex Often used with ADD VERTEX Deluxe Editor or higher only to place a new point in a specific location Reference Menu Commands File Menu Commands 5 1 File Menu Commands The File menu contains all the commands related to working with files including Opening Saving and Printing The commands you see will depend on what version of PatternMaker you are using Not all commands are available in all version
123. rt Colection Folder See also Configure defaults Show Explorer tree This setting toggles the Explorer tree in the LaunchPad windows T os he sH Preg bodiga lope zh Laal bithea dhe eee Explorer tree ison 4 Going Further l Collection Pta icar Explorer tree is off The LaunchPad interface normally hides the locations of files and instead directs you to a particular location that depends on the type of file you are opening or saving If you want to save a file in a different location or if you simply want to know where the files are going you can turn on the Explorer tree in the LaunchPad window This provides a view of the standard Windows Explorer tree Procedure e Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab e f you only see a few options on the form click the Advanced button at the bottom of the form e Mark or clear the Show Explorer Tree checkbox RY SSO Fics Tage Show Explores a e There is also a checkbox on the LaunchPad form that does this same thing See also Folders and file organization Configure defaults Show shared files This feature is primarily intended for those who share a computer with another PatternMaker user It provides easy access to the folder where shared files are stored By default program files and garment collections are installed to a location where all users can acce
124. s NEW command File gt New The NEW command clears the screen and starts a new drawing If you already had something drawn on the screen you will be given a chance to save your work OPEN command File gt Open The OPEN command opens an existing drawing a PAT file which has been saved on disk Opening a new file replaces whatever is on the screen If there is a drawing open the program will ask you if it should be saved Procedure 1 Click the Open icon or select Open from the File menu The file browser opens 2 The LaunchPad interface opens to the location where your personal files are automatically saved If you saved your file in a different place click the Show Explorer Tree checkbox and navigate to the correct location 3 Select the file you want to open 4 Click the Open button f Select a Ge to open Shared Files PM User our user tab is E ToeeShit pat automatically BA east bebo cumb Tl pad selected saved C Show Exphwer bee Fie pase Bd Fie hype Patten Fie pat See also Folders and file organization 5 Reference Menu Commands SAVE command File gt Save The SAVE command saves the current drawing in a PAT file If the file you are working on already has a name this file will be updated If you have not named the file the program will ask you for a name Focus picture confirms the type of file that you re saving Save File
125. s and program behaviors that will be in effect on the opened file Some drawing options you can change immediately in the status bar on the screen These changes will be visible in the Configure form Some changes you want to make to the settings have to be done in the Configure form itself like background color Set measurement units This setting selects the units of measurement either inches or centimeters If you select either of the metric displays meters or centimeters all PatternMaker input and output will be in centimeters If you select any of the English units all input and output will be in inches To see which units are in use look at the X Y coordinates in the status bar When you change this setting the grid if you re using it is resized Procedure 1 Click the mouse coordinates box on the Status Bar or select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu to open the Configure Options form a e BAID 0 77 yards PatternMaker Apre Measurement Units Fe inches I iy et 2 Choose one of the following options inches no fractions The measurement is in inches fractions are in decimal form No symbol is displayed Measurement is in inches Fractions are in decimal form 18 375 Fractional inches are written as fractions 1 6 3 8 meters The measurement is in meters 1 462 M centimeters The measurement is in centimeters 1462 cm See also Confi
126. s available for PatternMaker Sometimes the proper name of a command is slightly different than the name listed in the menu To find the proper name of a command look for the command s name in the menu bar after you select it Hot Keys The function keys lt F1 gt through lt F12 gt and various other special keys on your keyboard can be used to run certain commands These are called the hot keys The Hot Key commands can be selected at any time even if you are in the middle of another command For instance while doing the MOVE command you may zoom in to see a very small object you want to select then zoom out until the destination comes into view Most of the Hot Key commands can also be selected with icons These icons appear after you select a command You will find that using the Hot Keys is essential to using PatternMaker Tutorial 2 gives you an introduction to how they work See also icons anm Getting around in PatternMaker Using the mouse Understanding the function of the mouse buttons is one of the most important things necessary for success with PatternMaker The mouse clicks activate advance and conclude all the commands you will use The left mouse button is used for selecting things Use it to select e menu commands e icons e points e objects Many commands let you select more than one object or point at once For example the MOVE command will move one object or every object in the drawing Some
127. s in PatternMaker Text is used to insert labels on pattern pieces or add descriptive information vertex vertices pl The beginning end of a line segment or the place where two line segments come together For example a triangle has three vertices one at each corner Index canceling a command 27 95 i n re ex can t find files 8 centimeters vs inches 8 63 change background color 66 change drawing color 69 j change fill pattern 70 DXF files 83 86 8 change how the pattern prints 57 58 GRD files 83 choose LaunchPad vs Windows dialogs 75 KEY files 83 choose pages to print 54 MAC files 83 91 close PatternMaker 94 MMT files 47 83 123 color drawing color 69 81 MTB files 47 48 83 107 108 109 123 columns vs rows 59 60 PAT files 83 86 8 combining styles from different macros 39 40 E command line 10 103 A configuring 67 eee 114 command mne at top 103 absolute coordinates 31 32 commanding n activating a command 20 26 comman ngenange 1a active layer 80 commans eee adding seam allowance 94 anes adjust position of printed pattern 57 cance advanced features of PatternMaker 2 oe i advanced Snap modes 83 eats i aligning printed pages 60 type np alignment grid usmg drop down boxes 20 set spacing 64 using Hot Keys 20 24 showing hiding 12 98 oe ee ze alignment marks and page labels 59 E NR A ee ZOOM 20 daning 73 compare programs 2 arrange a pattern for printing 53 contgure R configure defaults 63 arrange pat
128. se the designer Leena and the collection Free Stuff e For this example we ll use the free Ladies pants pattern Select the file called Pants pleats or darts and click the Open button G Select a garment to open e his will launch the pattern As the macro runs you will be asked to select various garment options For this example it doesn t matter what options you choose just click the Next button to move through the choices e At the end of the style options the Measurement LaunchPad opens This is where you select the measurement table you want to use Using the pre designed garments Open Measurement Table he Bl sricy hesaghibeg i ee Sells Shea mith Sune Sewer pepara meaai labie e he measurements within the table will be plugged into the macro as it continues to run Too many measurements If the measurement table contains more measurements than are needed as in this example with the pants the extra measurements are simply ignored Not enough measurements Some macros will display a measurements dialog box even if you have used a measurement table These are garment options that depend on numbers other than body measurements such as the length of pant legs or the flare of a skirt These options can change from garment to garment while the body measurements remain the same Changing a saved measurement table If you need to make changes to a measurement table use the Edit Measurements
129. ser and go directly to our site 5 As long as you re there check the online Knowledge Base for an answer to your question We ve posted answers to many frequently asked questions and you may find what you need in that reference 7 4 Glossary arc A curved line segment An arc has three vertices one at each end and a control point which acts like a magnet to control the shape of the curve armscye Armhole 1 Glossary click Press the left mouse button LM one time and release it command line The blue area at the bottom of the PatternMaker window which displays command information coordinates A system used to indicate position on a grid The grid can measure units either in inches or in centimeters The X coordinate counts units in a horizontal direction and the Y coordinate counts units in a vertical direction dimension Dim One of four types of objects in PatternMaker Dimension objects are used to measure straight line distances between points double click Press and release the left mouse button LM two times quickly drop down menu A sub menu that appears drops down when you click on an item in the menu bar icons Small pictures that represent commands Click on an icon to activate the corresponding command macro A small add on program a pattern collection that is run by PatternMaker to automatically draw pre designed garments according to a user s measuremenis master measurement tem
130. ss them Any file created by a user on the other hand a saved pattern file personal measurement table grading table etc is saved in the user s personal folder In most shared computing environments these files will be inaccessible to other users In order to share a pattern file you ve saved for example a teacher who wants her students to alter a pattern she has designed it must be saved to the shared location If you need to save something in the shared location and the Shared Files tab is not visible you can navigate to the shared location using the Explorer tree in the LaunchPad window Procedure e Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab Customizing PatternMaker e f you only see a few options on the form click the Advanced button at the bottom of the form e Mark or clear the Show Shared Files Tab checkbox we LIE MG nas lt lt Shared Files Tab Lun See also Folders and file organization Configure defaults Set Undo history This setting lets you specify how many UNDO steps you want stored in the computer s memory This number can be anything you want a higher number gives you more flexibility in retracing your steps but it will make the program run more slowly Procedure e Select Configure or Configure Defaults from the Settings menu then click the Program Settings tab e f you only see a few options on the form click
131. t Move The MOVE command moves one or more objects Procedure 1 Click on the Move icon or select Move from the Edit menu The command name MOVE will appear in green on the right side of the status bar The prompt on the command line says Select object selection done is RightMouse 2 Click LM on the object s to move You can select and unselect as many objects as you want by repetitive clicking The command line will Keep you informed as objects are selected and unselected If you want to move a whole pattern piece be sure to select all of its pieces i e darts in a bodice piece grainline marks etc all parts need to be highlighted 3 If you are done with selecting objects click RM If the Right mouse Context menu is set On you will get a menu to choose from Select Done Selecting The prompt on the command line says Base point If you want to cancel the command select Cancel Command instead of Done Selecting 4 The base point the start of the move is like grabbing a handle on the pieces to move Simply click LM somewhere within the selected object s The command line will now ask for Destination 5 Move the mouse around to move the piece s or enter a destination by typing a position in coordinate format You will see a light blue line showing the origin and destination of the piece s Note Do not click and drag Click once where you want to start moving the pieces release the mouse button and then click again wh
132. t manual Help Contents Tips and Hints Calculator Manuals About PatternMaker ABOUT box The About box displays the copyright information for PatternMaker It also tells you which version you are using the build number and to whom the program is licensed to If you need to request technical support the build number can be given to PatternMaker personnel in order to determine if you have the latest version You can also connect to the PatternMaker web site from this box Just click on the link and it will automatically launch your browser If you are not registered or not registered correctly the version will be shown as Basic For registering follow the instructions you were given after purchasing the program or after asking for a demo See also Registering PatternMaker 14 About PatternMaker X PatternMaker for Windows Grading Studio 7 5 0 Build 6 Built on May 12 2011 Licensed to Eugenie Naber Copyright c PatternMaker 1994 2011 All rights reserved Credits Eugenie Naber Thea Botter Brian Jim and Gary Pickrell Tamara Pickrell Lane Holdcroft http www patternmakerusa com Appendix Using Windows dialogs instead of LaunchPad If you choose not to use the LaunchPad interface the File Open File Save and File Run Macro procedures will look very different from what is pictured in the main sections of this documentation e Have someone help you take your measurements e Open PatternM
133. t s color is LayerColor and it is on LayerO The object is black default color of LayerO If you move the object to Layer1 the object turns green because that is the default color of Layer1 e LayerO is active default color black and you change the drawing color to red and draw a shape The new Using Layers shape is red If you move the object to Layer1 default color green the object is still red If you want to change the default color of a layer any object on that layer with the color assignment of LayerColor will be updated to the new color The settings for changed layer colors are saved in the internal file format when you save a drawing However when you begin a new drawing or when you start PatternMaker the next time the settings revert to the default layer colors You cannot permanently change the default layer color See also COLOR command Assigning objects to a layer When you draw an object it is automatically drawn on the current or active layer The Basic Reader and Deluxe Editor do not include the editing commands to move an object from one layer to another Layer Lock When a layer is locked it means that its objects are visible but cannot be selected or manipulated in any way This can be useful if you need to trace an object or compare one or more objects Open the Layer dialog box either by pressing the lt F11 gt Hot Key or from the Settings menu Click in the Lock column for the layer you wan
134. t snap mode e Note that the corner control points are not actually on the polygon they are near it e You can t select an object that is on a locked layer see Layer Lock e Click RM or press the lt ESC gt key when you are done selecting objects Often if several points or objects are close together you will have difficulty selecting the one you want There are several ways to deal with this e If points from two objects are placed at the same location the X marks cancel each other out and will not be visible Put one or more of the objects on a different layer and turn the layer off See Using Layers This will get them out of the view and make your work easier If you can t find an object that you know is somewhere in the drawing check these things e Objects out of view in the drawing area The easiest solution here is to select Zoom All from the menu You 2 Learning the Basics can also use the Function keys or icons to zoom pan to where the object is See ZOOM and PAN functions e Layer off If an object isn t showing because it s in a layer that s turned off there is no way to select it Use the LAYERS command to turn on all the layers you need before selecting a command For more information about how to turn layers on and off see Using Layers X and Y coordinates As you move around in the whole vast drawing area which spreads out infinitely in all directions you need some way to keep track of where you are You a
135. t the drop down menus at the top of the screen with the mouse When the menu appears click the mouse on the command you want This works like any other Windows application A menu item with an arrow next to it gt leads to a submenu with more choices If a menu item is not available it will be grayed out and you cannot select it For instance you can t select the MOVE command if there aren t any objects for you to move Selecting menus from the keyboard Select a drop down menu by holding down the lt ALT gt key and typing the underlined letter in the menu s name When the menu appears use the up and down arrow keys to highlight the menu item and press the lt ENTER gt key Or type the key letter of the item you want The key letter for each menu item is underlined Most Windows applications work the same way Example Press lt ALT gt F to select the File menu Drop Down Boxes Many configuration commands can be selected from the drop down boxes on the Status Bar These include the current drawing color current line color style and width current Snap mode and more Any changes you make will remain in effect until you change them again Typed Commands You can select any command by simply typing the name of the command The letters you have typed will appear on the prompt line at the bottom of the drawing area Press the lt ENTER gt key and the command will start The chapters on Menu Commands give full lists of the command
136. t to lock An asterisk indicates that the layer is locked Click the OK button when you re finished Leck Cunernt Hame 4 Going Further Reset Layers If you click on the Reset button in the Layer box all layer names colors and on off status will be set to the original values We Set Edit Layers 4 3 Types of files Normally when you open a type of file the list that appears is filtered to show you only the files that are of the type you are opening For example when you are opening an ordinary drawing you do not see the files that contain grading tables or the font files However if you look at the PatternMaker folder with Windows Explorer you will see a variety of file formats Here s a list of the file types used by PatternMaker PAT This is the standard PatternMaker format for saved pattern files MAC This file extension is used for the PatternMaker pre designed garments macros See Using the pre designed garments MMT This is the Master Measurement Table set up by the designer of a macro Itis a template file that shows which body measurements the designer uses in drafting his her macros MTB This is the personal measurement table that you save with your own name and measurements Each MIB file is based on an MMT file from a particular designer 44 Overview all Snap modes Working with Snap modes will make your work more accurate You can select the severa
137. tern pieces 50 configure configure defaults 110 assembling printed pages 51 60 od automatic garments 91 configuring drawing preferences 68 configuring main window 63 configuring menus and dialog boxes 75 B configuring PatternMaker 67 112 background color 66 context menus 23 69 basics of PatternMaker 3 coordinate system 31 begin a new drawing 86 coordinates black background 66 absolute 32 bolt width 65 66 polar 33 relative 32 C COPY MEAS command 109 copying measurement tables 109 calculate fabric yardage 65 counting pages 54 55 calculate number of pages 98 create a personal measurement table 47 48 calculator 113 creating measurement tables a PatternMaker 7 5 Help current layer 80 files Curves begin new 86 drawing 73 opening 14 15 16 86 custom fit garments 35 37 38 39 40 91 printing 88 custom measurements 43 renaming 87 customizing PatternMaker 63 67 68 75 saving 17 87 fill pattern D changing 70 finding files 8 13 default layer settings fit to page printing 56 Ayengoor 81 fixa mistake 28 RE 83 focus pictures 13 14 15 16 17 18 default program settings 110 frequently asked questions 122 define fabric width 50 function keys 20 24 deleting objects 97 deselecting objects points 29 do this by default 9 G dotted dashed lines 72 getting help 113 drawing area 10 19 20 Getting Started 7 drawing color 69 81 glossary 123 drawing curves 73 GRID command 64 drawing preferences 68 110 grid spacing 64 drop down bo
138. the measuring chart specifically for the macro pattern you want to make Different designers may use different drafting systems and require different measurements or that the measurements be taken in a slightly different way Note Find someone to help you measure Do not try to measure yourself It will distort the measurements and give you poor results Next save your measurements in a new measurement table see Using Measurement Tables below Finally run the MACRO command and select the macro file you want to use Each macro will be a bit different but they all follow the same general format e select garment options and answer questions e select a measurement table or enter measurements manually After you input the information for the macro you will see an hourglass icon while the program runs the macro and draws the pattern When the macro finishes the hourglass will turn back to the pointer icon If you do not see your pattern or if you see only part of it press the lt END gt key on your keyboard to view the complete patiern 3 Patterns and Printing What is a macro A macro is the technical term for the pre designed garments It is simply an automated sequence of commands which automatically perform the same steps you would use to draw a pattern from scratch To create a pattern the POLY command is run repeatedly draws shapes pausing at times to ask for your input style selections and measurements some text
139. then continue to the next step Some editing commands only work on one item at a time In this case if you select a second object or point the first is unselected Other commands such as CUT and JOIN require you to select two objects one ata time The rest of the commands can work on any number of objects Note You cannot select a mixture of objects and individual points For commands on the Edit menu you select entire objects for commands on the Point menu you select individual points 2 Learning the Basics Selecting There are three ways to select objects or points One by one e Click on the object or the point LM LM LM until each object point you wish to select is highlighted e Indicate that you re finished selecting RM Selection window e Click the selection Window icon or type lt w gt e Indicate one corner of the selection area LM left upper corner e Move the mouse diagonally don t click and drag just move the mouse and indicate the opposite corner of the selection area LM Any object that has a point within this window will be selected highlighted Window selection never un selects things e Indicate that you re finished selecting RM Note you can use the selection window in combination with the method above before ending the selection set All Select all all e Click the All Objects icon or type lt A gt Every visible point and therefore every visible object in the drawing w
140. this command The size of this grid is determined by the size of the paper you are using in your printer Inkjet printers and laser printers are not able to print all the way to the edge of the paper so this grid displays just the printable area of the page not the actual paper size A change of printer or a different paper size will affect the appearance of the page grid This is also important when you print as PDF the page grid changes See also Page layout grid PRINT command TOGGLE GRID command View gt Alignment Grid This command turns the alignment grid on and off Procedure e Select Grid from the View menu A check mark appears in front of the menu item if the grid is turned on e You can also use the shortcut key lt F4 gt for this command e To change the grid spacing use the GRID command on the Settings menu See also Screen objects Alignment grid SNAP TO GRID 5 Reference Menu Commands TOGGLE YARDAGE GRID command View gt Yardage Grid This command shows or hides the yardage grid Procedure e Select Yardage Grid from the View menu A check mark appears in front of the menu item if the page grid is turned on e You can also use the shortcut key lt CTRL gt lt F12 gt for this command The size of this grid is determined by the Bolt Width setting on the Configure form Each red outlined panel represents one width of fabric whatever you have designated that to be See also Arr
141. to sleeve seam at a level of about one hand s width below neck e pants crotch height difference between panis leg outside and inside length this can be measured from a pair of old well fitting pants If one of these four measurements is wrong the result may be a distorted pattern and it is difficult to figure what measurement is wrong If some other measurement is wrong you get either a too tight or a too loose garment and you can easily see what measurement to correct and to what direction Picture 1 Petu 2 Normally the pattern for basic sloper is more or less like picture 1 Front and back shoulders slope downwards to shoulder tip Armscyes curve inward Back armscye can be rather straight but should never bulge outward If the pattern looks like picture 2 i e front armscye curves strongly inward a and back armscye bulges outward b back width has been measured wrong and is too much Take the back width measurement again Please note that this measuring error causes the garment to be too loose at back and too tight at front Therefore the situation cannot be corrected by only reducing with of back piece The pattern must be redrawn using the correct back width measurement If waist height in relation to back length is wrong refer to picture 3 the result is either a shoulder that slopes to wrong direction 3a or a shoulder which is too steep 3b If you measure waist height as instructed in PatternMaker measuring instru
142. tton The Measurements LaunchPad window opens PatternMaker will open in My Documents the folder Measure Tables Give your new measurement file a name and if you wish some comments at the left side of the form P Loe wa S dotem ER FPomgeilalon Pi Fie jamei Es Sicha Fenaban usmr Tate mat O Shi bee ET Cea 5 Note that the personal measurement tables that you create have an MTB file extension You will never accidentally overwrite the original Master Measurement Table MMT See also EDIT MEASUREMENT TABLE command COPY MEASUREMENT TABLE command EDIT MEASUREMENT TABLE command Settings gt Edit Measurements This command is used to make changes to a personal measurement table that has been created and saved Procedure 1 Select Edit Measurements from the Settings menu A dialog box opens showing the personal measurement tables MTB files that have been created and saved in the folder MeasureTables in My Documents fi Open Measurement Table Shad Fier Eugeria Nabe 5 uan Penta jaje 3 a 5 Reference Menu Commands 3 Make the necessary changes and click the OK button The file is automatically saved and you will be returned to the drawing screen See also CREATE MEASUREMENT TABLE command COPY MEASUREMENT TABLE command COPY MEASUREMENT TABLE command Settings gt Copy Measurements This command is used to make a copy of a personal measurement table that has been create
143. ur status bar List of lcons Program overview This is the arrangement of icons when you install PatternMaker Most commands have an icon available as you can see pictured on the menus but not all of them are set to be visible by default Basic version When you open the program New C oren MACRO fal SAvE CALCULATOR Q zoom HELP When you have a drawing on the screen New C loren MACRO fal SAve PRINT S caccutator MOVE ROTATE ERASE S H OFFSET ZOOM Q UNDO See also Configure Icon Bar Alignment grid During a command SNAP orF SNAP ORTHO SNAP MID POINT SNAP INTERSECTION SNAP MEASURED DIST Ly PAN pown g PAN RIGHT ZOOM ouT SELECTION WINDOW EJ snap GRID LI SNAP END POINT F SNAP NEAREST SNAP OFFSET PAN UP PAN LEFT Q zoomnn ALL S HeELP The alignment grid can help you position points and objects and gives you an idea of an object s size The default spacing of the grid is one unit either one inch or one centimeter depending on your settings but you can change the grid spacing to anything you want 2 Pathernmaker HOMAME PAT Fae Drow Ed Poets View Symbol Grade Settings Help Dia A 3 k pe r rpm pr jp me po j id a a E EGE p e DO 2 Patenrakei HONAMEPAT i Fie Dera Edi Pomii Viw Symbol Grade Setting Help jfet MB 1926 315 You can turn this grid off and on with the lt F4 gt
144. ure vertically from lower edge of waist elastic to lower edge of hip elastic Measure at the side Biceps Circumference Measure at the widest point of upper arm Wrist Circumference Measure over wrist bone Overarm Arm length from shoulder tip as described above to wrist Bend arm slightly and measure over outside of elbow Outside seam Measure from waist over the outside curvature of the hip to the desired cuff length This can be varied to create anything from shorts to full length pants Croich Depth Sit on unpadded bench or chair Measure vertically from waist elastic to chair level on both sides and use the longer measurement Measure in a straight vertical line not along the outside hip curve Crotch depth can also be figured from an old well fitting pair of pants It is the difference between outside and inside length of pants Desired cuff circumference not ankle circumference This may change from garment to garment Desired jacket length from waist elastic to hem This may change from garment to garment Desired skirt dress length from waist elastic to hem This may change from garment to garment Using the pre designed garments IMPORTANT THINGS TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION WHEN MEASURING Most important measurements are e waist height from back neck over bust apex to front waist e back length from back neck to back waist e back with horizontal measurement between shoulder blades i e from sleeve seam
145. utside the page area automatically begins anew column Move the patterns at the page grid using the lt HOME gt and lt END gt to zoom in and out It is possible to move the patterns around the page grid that the amount of pages that have to be put together is less Here are some possibilities of layouts In 2 columns under each Each pattern at a separate column other sp Printing and assembling the pattern Print Preview When you select any of the the Print commands the Print Preview window opens automatically Print Aves tH Yj F gt Print Sea Ofset E 100 one m 50 fo Vertical 25 a o Fitto Page zl rreman O Sca no 025 M Yaedage Gnd a al al Ureelact All 3 a a E Zx a The blue dotted lines correspond to the page grid in your drawing area see TOGGLE PAGE GRID The print Preview shows you how many pages are necessary to print the entire pattern In the Print Preview window you can print one specific pattern piece print specific sheets of paper 3 Patterns and Printing print a scaled pattern print a pattern layout diagram Select unselect pages to print Unshaded pages will be printed shaded pages are not printed Click on a specific page to switch between selected and unselected Port Scale 100 C Sox C 25 Fitto Page I Seale Y dage Gid al a al SS X AAN XY T m e e PPA ite WG Saar SAA
146. wish to use If your pattern pieces will be laid out on double layers of fabric enter half the fabric width in the Bolt Width field For example if your 60 fabric will be folded in half enter 30 for the bolt width Hint Try your pattern layout with various bolt widths to see which gives you the best result After you define a fabric width the yardage grid will display a rectangular shape that is as wide as the number you entered The yardage grid is represented in the drawing area by a red dotted dashed line Turn the yardage grid on and off with the Hot Key lt CTRL gt lt F12 gt or use the check box on the Program Settings tab of the Configure form found on the Settings menu _ grid Arrange pattern layout Keep in mind that the initial arrangement of pattern pieces drawn by the macro will not represent a realistic fabric layout arrangement Some pieces may overlap and you will almost certainly find that one or more pieces extend past the first width of fabric Try these techniques to come up with an arrangement that works e Use the MOVE command to move all pieces into one column of fabric Arrange your pattern pieces so that they fill one width and extend downward The yardage grid will automatically change shape as you arrange pieces and add objects to your drawing 3 Patterns and Printing nee LSE L I a me l Original pattern m arrangement Patten arranged f
147. xes 20 grids alignment grid 12 98 E page grid 98 yardage grid 49 50 99 EDIT MEAS command 108 editing measurement tables 108 entering points H typed coordinates 31 help 113 using snap modes 29 hide show Explorer tree 76 ERASE command 97 hide show layers 81 estimate fabric yardage 49 65 hide show points 99 EXIT command 94 hide show shared files 7 Explorer tree 18 hide show Start form 75 show hide 76 highlighting objects points 29 hints and tips 10 113 F Hot Keys 20 24 how to get help 7 123 fabric layout grid 49 50 99 how to run a macro 38 fabric width 90 how to take measurements 43 fabric yardage 65 66 how to use the mouse 22 features of PatternMaker 2 file icons 18 file locations 8 13 file management 13 14 15 16 17 87 icon bar 10 file organization 8 icon list 12 file tree 18 icons 12 20 file types 83 ID Object Panel 30 ID String registering PatternMaker 106 inches vs cm 8 63 interacting with the program 19 L landscape vs portrait 55 91 LaunchPad interface 13 opening files 14 15 16 86 options 18 saving files 17 87 LAYER command 79 104 layers 78 configuring 104 default colors 81 locking 82 naming 81 reset defaults 83 select active 80 showing hiding 81 laying out a pattern 50 learning the program 7 length of Undo history 78 library files 83 line styles 71 72 line width 71 list of icons 12 20 LM 3 22 location of files 8 lock a layer 82 looking around the drawing 19 20 100 101 102 MACRO
148. you haven t cancelled the command until the command name in the status bar turns back to purple italics MOVE command is active MOVE command is inactive Getting around in PatternMaker Undo Redo If you complete a command and realize it wasn t what you wanted you can undo the change with the UNDO command PatternMaker 7 5 has a multiple undo redo feature The program configuration determines how many steps you can undo More undo steps require more computer memory and will make the program run more slowly so you can adjust the undo number to something that you like The default is 9 See also UNDO command REDO command Selecting objects and points Selecting objects or points is the second step in any editing function after you have activated a command Most commands require you to select one or more objects or one or more points on which to perform an action Here is the basic procedure e Use LM to click once on each thing you want to select e f you re selecting points try using Snap To Endpoint lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt The mouse cursor will jump precisely to the nearest vertex You can also use the ZOOM commands to focus closely on the area you want to view e f you re selecting objects click near the edge not in the center of the object e An object will get highlighted when it is selected A vertex a point will turn red when it is selected e Use RM to indicate that you ve finished selecting things The command will

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