Home

Version 6 Tutorials

1. Select a fill pattern Now draw a circle The Circle icon is a circle Select Circle icon To draw a circle you first choose where its center should go Select any point in the drawing area 35 Tutorial 7 Polygons Text and Dimension Objects 36 Select any point Now move the mouse A circle will follow it When you have a circle you like click the left mouse button again Select point on circle The circle is blue and is filled with the fill pattern you chose Now show the vertices lt F5 gt The circle is a closed polygon with eight points making up four arcs You can change it with any of the editing functions you have already learned Draw a dot Put it anywhere in the drawing area except inside the circle you couldn t see it there Select Draw Dot Select any point A dot is a polygon with one point Now you can add some other object types to your sloper drawing Open the file BACKSLOPER PAT When PatternMaker asks if you want to save your current drawing reply no Select File Open Select NO button Select file BACKSLOPER PAT CREATING A DIMENSION LINE Dimension lines are commonly used in engineering drawings to show the distance between two points In PatternMaker you can use them to check the measurements of your drawings In this example you will double check the center back length of your sloper Select the Dim icon It looks like a pair of arrows with two parallel lines
2. Alter the collar and or the lapel to the shape you want by moving its point s Use the command Point Move vertex Select the points to be moved MI MI accept the selection M2 Choose the base point of the move preferably near the points to be moved M1 Move the mouse and choose the destination of the move anywhere you want it to be M1 If you are not pleased with the result undo the move with the command Edit Undo and try again When you are satisfied with the new shape of the collar and the lapel mirror them back to their original position to the left side of the turning line of the lapel Use the command Edit Mirror Select the collar piece M1 and the lapel M1 accept the selection M2 Choose the line across which the mirroring is to be done It is the same line as the previous mirroring line M1 M1 Remove the collar piece and the lapel on the CF piece Edit Erase If you want to you can join the collar pieces to each other and join the lapel to the CF piece Edit Join This is not necessary but if you want to draw seam allowances around the pieces it is easier when the pieces are joined The menu bar You have already used many of the PatternMaker commands doing the exercises above Now it 1s time look at the menu bar more systematically Try the commands one by one and see what happens If you need any more information of them please refer to the owner s manual FILE New Clear screen and start a new drawing
3. 1 Run the basic skirt macro File Macro Lskirt mac Erase all pieces but the front and the back pieces Edit Erase 2 Mirror the front piece Edit Mirror Choose the command then select the piece M1 accept M2 and give the center front line of the skirt as the line to be reflected across Draw a vertical line Draw Line starting from the dart apex CtrIF3 down CtrIF5 and across the hem line as in the picture 3 Draw the wraparound piece along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtrlF3 Add points to the CF at the waist and at the hem Align the hem CF vertex with vertex of the inner dart apex as in the picture Use command Point AlignX select first the point according which you want to align inner dart apex and then the point to be aligned 2 hem CF point Note that in the side seam from hip to waist there is an arc the top hip abdomen vertex is a round vertex You can change this vertex to a round vertex afterwards Point Round vertex or you can when you come to this point change the polygon tool to the arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 Web Page Tutorials and choosing from the menu Arc x When you have finished the arc change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line Round vertex 4 Move the wraparound piece apart from the front piece Edit Move and change the vertex in the hem corner to a round vertex Point Round vertex Draw the center front line to the wraparound piece
4. Name Lower Right dx Uns dy Du Enter this information by clicking on the OK button at the bottom of the box or by pressing ENTER Select Ok button The arrow at the lower right should now be very small and point to the right Press F7 to see the arrow s name Now edit the arrow at upper left and the tack at lower left Remember you can repeat the EDIT ARROW command by simply clicking the mouse on the next point whose arrow you want to edit Give them the following names and values Select upper left corner lt ESC gt Upper Left lt TAB gt 0 lt TAB gt 1 0 Select Ok button Select lower left corner Lower Left Select Ok button The dx and dy values for the tack are left unchanged CREATE A GRADING TABLE Select the SAVE TABLE function Select Grade Save table 42 Tutorial 8 Introduction to Grading and the prompt will read Select objects containing grading information Select object for help lt ESC gt done In this case all the grading information you want to save is attached to a single object so just select the rectangle and then press lt ESC gt to stop selecting Select rectangle lt ESC gt Now you are asked Select file to save grading table in The box that appears works exactly the same as the boxes used for selecting drawing files except that a grading table file s name ends with GRD Call this file SIMPLE GRD SIMPLE lt ENTER gt Anot
5. Select Dim icon A dimension line object has three points The first two are the points at which the measurement is taken The third tells PatternMaker where to place the numbers Your first prompt is ELESE POLNING To make sure you enter the points exactly select Snap to Endpoint lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt Tutorial 7 Polygons Text and Dimension Objects Move the mouse to the point where the left center back edge of the sloper meets the curve of the neckline When a yellow X lights up at this point click the left mouse button Select point at Center Back Neckline The next prompt is Second point lt ESC gt to cancel Move the mouse around An arrow will follow the mouse cursor connecting it with the first point you entered Select the point at the lower left corner of the sloper again make sure the yellow X lights up Select point at Center Back Hipline Now as you move the mouse some more you will see a double arrow two parallel lines and a small dotted silhouette showing where the numbers will be displayed when you complete the dimension line The prompt line says bLbocartron for labels Move the mouse until this silhouette is in a convenient clear area Then click the left mouse button Select point to locate label The dimension line object will now be drawn in its final form It s blue because you set the drawing color to blue in the first part of this tutorial The two parallel lines indicate the
6. 2 Draw guide circles Draw Circle CtrIF3 and the shape of the back collar on the back piece Draw Poly CtrlF3 3 Move the front and the back collar so that they touch each other at their joint shoulder vertex as in the picture Edit Move CtrlF3 Rotate the back collar so that you get a joined collar Edit Rotate CtrIF3 The center base and destination points have been marked in the picture 4 Join the pieces Edit Join If needed correct the shape of the collar in the place which is marked in the picture with an arrow by moving a point Point Move vertex 5 Draw cutting lines on the collar Draw Line Cut the collar with the lines Edit Cut Choose the command select the piece to be cut the collar MI M2 and then the piece to cut with the line M1 M2 Then cut the remaining pieces of the collar with the remaining cutting lines similarly Erase the cutting lines Edit Erase 6 Rotate the pieces of the collar so that the outer edge of the collar opens increases by 2 5 cm at each intersection of the collar edge and the cutting lines Edit Rotate Choose the command select the topmost piece of the collar M1 accept M2 Choose the center point of the rotation as in the picture M1 M2 and type the rotation distance from keyboard 2 5 Enter Continue to rotate all the collar pieces Web Page Tutorials similarly 7 Finally join the pieces of the collar together into one piece Edit Join Choose
7. 36 Points Menu commands uc biete rx vno bete 33 Dolar Coordinates o iid cera er EA E 15 POLY COMMU AN Cis 2055530 nheosda bue nervio deside aos 14 PRINT MARKER command eeeeeeeee 69 PROMI IIO sos Poor reece tise ibi dere ba deti ues oia Ea Pu eaa Du nie 8 PURGE COPHWadnqd aum ie oed a Eva dier E UR 55 R READ TABLE CODI arrstate to ees eost 43 RECT command usu eoo E eerie dats 8 13 40 telatuve Coordinate S 2 seine Ora ae stan ee Er oa i e Aaa 14 PEPCAUMOva COMMA ese den oec imet S 9 20 RESIZE COMIN esencia eter Ate e tested sd eia 2 ROTATE COMMANd 5 contends oni eoo Lr viens e iru oe tesis 21 ROTATE VERTEX command eee 33 ROUND VERTEX command eeeeee 33 nnne acom aN tales tetera taal rate eee aetate der ede sse 8 S SAVE command n testis rhe eet oce Laub EP EP ERR ELM 16 SAVE TABLE command eee 42 seam allowance IIXedeyvidtDi senecta nii ee hatin seat a Lb bd 57 variable SwIdtDi ai esas er tr rera Ee eres iaa 56 SEAM ALLOWANCE command 56 60 SELECT LIBRARY commaand eese 50 selectitib OD IE ES osdoettri ia te Ya M be Eu v uS EA d TU c AG 18 SELECTION WIBdONS s veio eii etee tu vn E E nep dole 32 SET MARKER AREA commaand sesese 64 SET MEASURE DIST commaand sssseee 34 showing hiding OT ACIS AITO WS 2d erestere vetat eque bv v tu Ud d Moda 12 B
8. Click the Next button one more time to begin copying the files to your hard drive Click the Next button After the files have been copied you will see a message that the setup process is complete You will have the option of running PatternMaker immediately but you don t want to do this just yet Leave the check box blank unchecked and click the Finish button Click the Finish button You will now return to the CD brower RETURN TO CD BROWSER Again you have a choice to make depending on whether you are using the demo or purchased version of the program 1 IF YOU ARE USING THE DEMO If you re using the demo you re done with the installation Exit the CD browser Click the button labled Main Menu Click the button labled Exit Click the button labled Exit Continue with the tutorial by skipping to the section below called Running PatternMaker 2 IF YOU ARE USING A PURCHASED VERSION Your final step is to install any garment collections macros that you have purchased You may have purchased macro sets alone or you may have the Women s Vol 1 which comes with the Home Expert and Marker versions Go back to the Installation menu Click the button labled Return To Installation Menu Click the button to the right of the words Add On Garment Collections Click the button labled View Options Click the button corresponding to the macro collection s
9. Draw Line Cut the collar with the line Edit Cut Select the collar M1 accept M2 then select the line M1 accept M2 Then rotate one cut piece of the collar in order to add length to the collar edge Select the piece to be rotated in the picture it is the right side piece M1 accept M2 Choose the point to rotate about with M1 53prm marked in the picture the starting base point of the rotation also marked in the Uo picture and finally type 5 3 from keyboard Draw the new shape of the collar along the existing vertices of the collar pieces Draw Poly Rotate If needed you can correct the shape of the new collar by moving points manually Point Move vertex Web Page Tutorials Exercise 9 Drafting a Raglan sleeve 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Erase the center line of the sleeve Edit Erase Move the front and back shoulder darts temporarily to CF and to CB First draw cutting lines from the dart apexes to and across the CF and CB lines A B and C D Draw Line CtrlF3 Cut the center front piece and the back piece with the cutting lines Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut center front or back piece M1 accept M2 Then select the object to cut with cutting line M1 accept M2 Cut the other piece the same way Cut the sleeve into two pieces Draw a cutting line upon the sleeve starting from the center point of the sleeve cap and ending at the vertex which is
10. More exercises On the following pages you have some exercises without specific instructions Look carefully at the pictures we are sure you can do these exercises too Use as your basic blocks the basic bodice or another macro according to your wishes Be certain to have the needed ease in the garment 143 Web Page Tutorials Exercises 17 and 18 Two corset tops for evening dresses R Round point CF Center front CB Center back R 2c LAE oC 11 5cm E pT em f cm m Qm d m Rotate 144 Web Page Tutorials Exercise 19 A long evening dress and a bolero E ime 7 qu 2 zi Eu care R hf i 2 R d 4 IB M r d ei ET us 145 Web Page Tutorials Exercise 20 Drafting a flat collar Draft collar on tap af the pieces Place frant and back pieces 0 5 cm an top of each other at shoulder tip CF Exercise 21 A closely fitting evening jacket Use the jacket minimum ease patterns 12 cm bust ease as base for this design 146 Web Page Tutorials ADVANCED TUTORIAL GRADING Creating a general grading table to be used together with PatternMaker macro patterns Note This tutorial applies to the Expert and Marker Versions only You can use the basic bodice macro of PatternMaker to draft slopers in different sizes and to generate a general grading table with them Macros are small computer programs that you run with PatternMaker to draft patterns
11. Select Layer 2 under CURRENT Now the line containing the words Layer2 should be highlighted Also the asterisk in the left part of the box moves to this line The prompt line will read Currentlayer set to 2 Layer2 If you selected the wrong layer by mistake try again CHANGING A LAYER NAME Now put the mouse cursor on the word Layer2 and click the left button Select Layer2 under NAME Delete Layer2 and type in a new name For this tutorial call it Sizel14 since the blue sloper you created in the last tutorial represented a size 14 it s not a true size 14 remember Sizel4 lt ENTER gt You can rename the other layers if you like but it isn t a necessary part of this tutorial CHANGING A LAYER S DEFAULT COLOR You will rarely do this but it gives a good illustration of layer default colors Under the header COLOR in the Layer box on the layer you just renamed is a light blue actually cyan square To change Layer 2 s color to yellow put the mouse on the square and click the left mouse button Select cyan square under COLOR A small box will appear in front of the layer box with sample squares for 16 colors Notice that the square at the upper left of the color grid is cyan the original color of this layer The color of this first square will always represent the default color of the layer you are dealing with at the time The rest of the colors are your remaining color choices Selecting black
12. These are the locations of the vertices MOVE A VERTEX First we are going to give the sloper a deeper neckline Select the Points menu then select the MOVE VERTEX function Select Points move Vertex The prompt line will read Select point w for selection window Selecting points is much like selecting objects We want to move the point where the neckline meets the center back line This is at the upper left of the sloper at coordinates 1 24 75 Put the mouse cursor on this point and click the left mouse button Select vertex at center back neckline The X at this point changes from white to red Now much like with the MOVE function for objects you will be prompted to select more points until you press lt ESC gt or click the right mouse button We only want to move one point so do this now Tutorial 6 Point Edit Functions lt ESC gt Now just like the move function for objects you need to select a base point and destination Let s make the neckline 3 4 inch deeper by moving this point from its present location at 1 24 75 to the grid point at 1 24 Turn on Snap to End Pt lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt and then select the same point you are moving Make sure the X appears indicating that you have a snap point Since this vertex is already marked with a colored X the X indicating the snap point will not be yellow but it will be obvious when you have a snap point Select vertex at center back neckline T
13. hid rotation M1 aj paint center of rotation M1 Use snap topend point Ctl F5 tolbe exact Mid left mouse button ld right mouse button 1 Clear the screen using command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Lbodice mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements by clicking lt OK gt and lt OK gt with M1 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 2 Remove the back piece and its darts well as the sleeve and its centerline using the command Edit Erase Choose the command then select the objects to be removed one by one M1 M1 M1 M1 and accept the selection M2 3 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the lt End gt key 4 Choose the command Edit Rotate Continue the exercise referring to the picture below EXERCISE 13 In the next exercise you rotate points in a real designing situation You learn how to make an A line tunic using the shirt patterns 100 Web Page Tutorials Use snap to endpoint Ctrl F3 gt to be exact 2 point center of rotation M1 3 point base of rotation M1 j T select the points ta be rotated points at back piece notice that the distance at front piece H1 H1 to be rotated is now 2 because the rotation Accept the selection ht E to be made clockwie 5 do the same to the corresponding e type from keyboard 4 zEnterz Clear the screen
14. t If you were selecting for the commands Edit Erase or Point Delete pressing lt Esc gt completes the command and the items are erased deleted If you do this by mistake use the command Edit Undo to reverse the command With other commands you can use lt Esc gt to cancel the selection You have to type it twice since you are completing the selection and then executing the command Selecting segments A segment is the section connecting two points of an object a line or an arc Some PatternMaker commands operate on segments rather than on points or objects Select a segment by clicking with M1 on it Selecting is easier if there is no snap active deactivate snap with Ctrl F1 if necessary Using hot keys Learn to use the hot keys as they will speed up your work e Fl Zoom Out makes everything appear smaller e F2 Zoom In makes everything appear bigger e F3 Zoom To Mouse To examine a detail of your drawing put the mouse on it and hit F3 a few times e F4 Grid On Off Shows or hides the grid points e F5 Points On Off Shows or hides the vertices of all objects e F6 Select Snap A menu will appear listing all available snap modes e F7 Arrows Shows or hides the grading arrows This function toggles between three options nO arrows arrows only and arrows and their names e F8 Absolute Mode Mouse Mode Switches digitizer mouse modes This only applies if you are using a digitizer Web
15. t worry if it appears to go slightly out of bounds It s really inside the marker area PatternMaker now does some calculations to see if the moved piece overlaps any other pieces or the marker area Since it does PatternMaker moves it back in the direction it came from until it just butts up against the left edge of the marker area This is where you want the piece to be Once again PatternMaker tells you how much of the material will be used and prompts you for a Pack command 46 7 of material is used Select Pack function The percentage of material used may be different depending on which marker piece you selected Notice that the percentage has increased though PatternMaker assumes that the marker will be made just long enough to contain every piece that is in the marker area In this case the single piece would use 45 4 per cent of the material in such a marker and the rest would be wasted PatternMaker has prompted you to select a Pack function At this point you can pack the selected piece as many times as you want or not at all You can also select the Pack functions independently without going through Arrange first The Pack Up Pack Down and Pack Left functions are represented by icons with large heavy arrows or use the U D and X keys Pack the selected piece down Select Pack Down icon The marker piece moves down until it touches the bottom edge of the marker area The piece should now be packed tightly in t
16. the center point of the rotations at the waist point of the piece MI refer to the picture Choose the hem point as the base point of the rotation M1 Type as the distance or end point of the rotation from keyboard 2 and press Enter 3 Continue as in the picture and rotate the corresponding points of other pattern pieces Please note that the points of the CF and CB lines are not rotated NOTE When you rotate the points of both sides of a pattern piece the hem rises to the level where the hem points will be after the rotation Therefore it is necessary at least when the amount of the rotation is large to add a new point to hem between the hem points which are to be rotated This new point remains on the correct hemline after the rotation To be able to curve the hem you also need to add additional new points between the original hem points and the point you just added Look at the picture below 109 Web Page Tutorials Original rs 4 q4 dM 14 Alter these points to round points Point Round vertex The piece T Add new hem points P Use snap to midpoint Ctrl F 6 gt Exercise 23 In this exercise you learn to change the styling of a tailored collar 110 Cutting E cn lin e eec En el eae Tangent line Mirroring line howe e g this point Destination of move from here on Mowe collar Draw a line Cut callar and Mirrar collar piece Erase original Mowe callar Mirror news collar o that
17. the sloper in half Select horizontal snap point You have now drawn a horizontal line that we will use to cut the sloper Think of it as a scissor line You can use any polygon object including lines rectangles and circles to cut any other polygon object open or closed Our line extends beyond the edges of the object it will cut in order to make sure of a clean cut Now that we re done with our horizontal line we don t want the snap point interfering with whatever we do next To get out of snap mode hold down the Ctrl key and press the F1 key CTRL F1 CUTTING AN OBJECT Select the Cut icon It looks like a pair of scissors Select Cut function A prompt will ask you to select the object to be cut Select the sloper object by putting the mouse cursor on it and clicking the left button Then click the right button or press lt ESC gt Select sloper object lt ESC gt Now a prompt will ask you to select the object to cut with Select the line you just drew Select horizontal line lt ESC gt The prompt line should say Command CUT Select the object to be cut Polygon selected Select the object to cut with Polygon selected 25 Tutorial 5 CUT JOIN and Snap Points 26 The computer now uses the line to cut the sloper You won t see any difference yet because the pieces are still in the same places Let s get rid of the cut line you just drew since we don t need it any more Select the ERASE c
18. 111 Web Page Tutorials 112 Open Clear screen and open a drawing file Save Save current drawing in a file Save As Save current drawing in a file with a different name Set Print Area Set current print area i e the area of one page of your printer Print Print current print area i e one page Print All Print entire drawing Macro Run a macro Exit Quit PatternMaker program DRAW Line A line is a polygon with two vertices Input the two end points Rect A rectangle is a closed polygon with four vertices To draw a rectangle input two opposite corners PatternMaker will add the other two corners Poly Select the Poly command and then start entering points This will draw a series of lines To draw curves instead of straight lines choose an option from the point types menu M2 When you are done choose one of the Done closed or open options from the point types menu The options you choose from the options menu M2 are Line the default This draws straight lines Arc This begins an xarc The next point you input will be the corner point and the point after that will be the end point of the xarc Arc through point This also begins an xarc The difference is that the next point you select is not the corner point Instead PatternMaker calculates the corner point so that the arc will go through the point you selected Automatic arc This draws an xarc but you don t need to input a corner point Instead you inp
19. 14 16 and 18 If you had entered 2 they would be sizes 10 8 and 6 The grading arrows tell PatternMaker what the difference between one size and the next is Note Recall that you have shortened the sloper from its original size 12 and that your grading rule was designed for simplicity not realism Therefore your sizes 13 14 and 15 don t correspond to real clothing sizes Okay now you can finish the grading command Select OK button PatternMaker creates three new slopers a green one a blue one and a red one Look carefully at the arrows to see how PatternMaker calculated where each point belonged e The point with the tack didn t change from one size to the next e At each point with an arrow the corresponding point of the green object is at the end head of the arrow e At each point without an arrow PatternMaker uses the nearest two arrows to determine where the point should go The change from the green sloper to the blue sloper is the same as the change from the white one to the green one and so on You have finished your introduction to PatternMaker s grading system As you can see once you have created the arrows that define your grading rule it S very easy and quick to make new sizes A hint on creating arrows there are two good ways to put together a grading rule One is to use the EDIT ARROW command to enter predetermined dx and dy values as you did in this tutorial The other is to draw two copies of a
20. 39 40 TUTORIAL 8 INTRODUCTION TO GRADING THE RECTANGLE Note This tutorial applies to the Expert and Marker Versions only In this tutorial you will create your own grading rule You will save a grading table and you will use it to apply the same grading rule to another object Then you will use the grading information to create a nest of different sized pieces For simplicity you will start out by grading a rectangle but the procedures you learn will apply to any pattern piece Start PatternMaker If you have it running already use the NEW command to start a new drawing Use the RECT command to draw a rectangle Select Rect command Enter a rectangle CREATING A GRADING RULE Select the ADD ARROW command from the Grade menu Select Grade Add Arrow The first prompt will ask you Potrnt LO attach arrow Lo Select the vertex at the lower right corner of the rectangle Select lower right corner of rectangle lt ESC gt The next prompt is Select end point for arrow Select any point you like The end of an arrow doesn t have to be a vertex of an object In a minute you will use the EDIT ARROW command to set this more carefully Select any point lt ESC gt Now repeat the ADD ARROW command and add an arrow to the upper left corner Tutorial 8 Introduction to Grading Select upper left corner of rectangle lt ESC gt Select any point lt ESC gt Go to the Grade menu and select the
21. ADD TACK command A tack is just an arrow with a length of 0 Add the tack to the lower left corner of the rectangle Select Grade add Tack Select lower left corner of rectangle Now three of the four corners of the rectangle have grading information attached including the tack Use the EDIT ARROW command to make this information more complete Select Grade Edit Arrow The prompt will ask you to select an arrow You do this by clicking on the vertex that the arrow is attached to the base of the arrow Start with the lower right corner Select lower right corner of rectangle lt ESC gt A box will appear titled Enter Arrow Info The box will have three white bars or edit fields labelled Name dx dy You can type information into these edit fields They work much like most word processing programs whatever you type will be entered in whichever edit field is highlighted Currently the name ARROW is highlighted You need to give this arrow a name that will describe where it is placed Call it Lower Right Use the lt TAB gt key to move to the next edit field Lower Right lt TAB gt Now the middle field is highlighted The fields dx and dy represent the distance the point will move in the x and y directions respectively when you grade this object to the next larger size Set the values to 0 5 and 0 4 Tutorial 8 Introduction to Grading 0 5 lt TAB gt 0 The edit fields should now say
22. BTNHOLE Select BTNHOLE from symbol list The prompt line says Library C PATTERN LIBRARY PAT oymbol loaded successfully Command The symbol is now loaded but your drawing doesn t look any different This is because there are two steps to using a symbol The first step is to define the symbol in the computer s memory this is what you have just done Now you need to place one or more insertions of the symbol into the drawing To do this you need to run the INSERT command Select Symbols Insert A list box appears The only name in the list is BTNHOLE because this is the only symbol defined Select it and click on the OK button Select BTNHOLE The prompt line will read Insertion point Inserting a symbol is similar to placing an object with the MOVE command For this example place the buttonhole one inch from the left edge of the rectangle using Snap to Grid lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt Select grid point 3 3 If you repeat the Insert command by clicking the mouse on the drawing area you can place more copies of the same symbol Click left mouse button in drawing area Select grid point 3 3 Click left mouse button in drawing area 51 Tutorial 10 Symbols and Library Files 22 Select grid point 3 5 Click left mouse button in drawing area Select grid point 3 7 Click left mouse button in drawing area Select grid point 3 9 Click left mouse button in drawing area Select
23. Draw Line CtrlF3 and CtrlF5 Exercise 7 Another wraparound skirt Run the Lskirt mac macro File Macro Erase the lining Edit Erase Erase the outer vertices of the back piece zipper and the vent extensions 1 Mirror front piece using the center front line as the reflection line Choose command Edit Mirror Select the front piece M1 accept M2 Select as the top of the reflecting line the waist point of the CF line CtrIF3 M1 and as bottom of the reflecting line the hem point of the CF line M1 Draw guide circles at the waist and the hem points of the center front line radius 10 cm Draw Circle CtrlF3 2 Draw vertical guide lines between the intersections of the 10 cm circles and the waist and the hem Draw new guide circles at the intersection of front hem and the lines you just drew radii 3 and 9 cm Draw Circle CtrlF3 3 a Draw the right side wrap piece as in the picture using the existing points of the right side and dart 125 Web Page Tutorials 126 points of the skirt and the intersection of the 9 cm circle with the right vertical guide line 3 b Draw the left side wrap piece as in the picture using the existing points of the left side and dart points of the skirt and the intersection of the 3 cm circle and the left vertical guide line Note that in the side seam from hip to waist there is an arc the top hip abdomen point is a round vertex You can change this vertex to a round vertex afterwards Poin
24. ENA 28 36 dawno CULVES orisni e co nuo E 14 drawings OPCS ee a DA clo ATE 10 reston Troni diskossa ANER 22 SERM LED 16 MEL WN C5 tated de TR 10 E EDIT ARROW command eeeeeernn 41 eim tiinte de TR 18 Edit menu commands eee 21 entering input D3 NOUS S ieee tide aster os mia ute elo Desc bif sapie buda 8 ob RP 407 1 same teem er ema nee ORC ERE HNOE NI HUPEOHOENNNTNDU SO MIRI oy 13 ERASE COIDLDSI ce ov EE tee ERE e 27 EXIT CODIIIAHG doo oQod ede ctos cvS pv onde een pap E enc EU OEUEE 9 EXPAND command eieren PR Seo De EMEN Erba 27 EXPLODE Command acces til ede cheeses 54 F fill pattern eral irm E a E 35 PUNCHON Ke VS vo scere eec Eee dede b AD o user Te a Le are 11 G GEDE SNe consecra a d ora due 3 GRADE COUIDIJIQ esie cba Tera E 44 grading adde atto Soci casco cuoco ere Ca Ao cH oec Cups a epu as 40 addine fak eed eau ncaa dant d bulo vig OER 4 create a pradine table uieioee m tics oer aae 42 edite ATOW NIST 41 establishing grading rules ssseeeeeussss 40 STAdin9 d DAaltebll enetan obe oet a 44 loading eradine rules 52 ein iare ett et hte ea ica 43 sataple reectanelIe oie trees oci erri ten e 40 savine CLACING Fules o unie o Ee aa 42 grading arrows SNOWING IUE oissec iiie esas eta et ete cet PEU OE Peek Tee da 12 grid SHO Wine MIGING o oido ced eu d t em o en 11 15 SOUTH ODIGCUS capud bua sehe dass buts sm oi Pkt es 20 H hiding showing OLACING
25. If you want to sew a T shirt or a sweater with the shirt patterns or an overcoat with the jacket patterns then you may want to add ease to the patterns Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Lbodice mac File Macro 2 Erase all other pieces but the front and the back pieces and the back waist dart Choose the command Edit Erase Select the pieces to be erased one by one MI M1 M1 accept M2 3 Move the points of the front and the back piece Select the points with the help of a selection window as in the picture Choose the command Point Move Vertex Type from keyboard W or click the window icon in the icon area with M1 Choose one corner of the selection window M1 move the mouse and choose the opposite corner of the selection window M1 Accept selection with M2 The base and the destination points of the move have been marked in the picture below Exercise 21 It is worthwhile knowing how to move a dart to another place Do the following exercise 107 Web Page Tutorials 108 Destination of rotation Base of rotation XC enter ofi rotation 4 Y i l 2 Y s Des Y Base nf rotation i7 t NL ius Draw cutting line Rotate bottom part of Mowe fron pieses Rotate shoulder dart from bust apex across side piece zo that its side bv side Edit llowe until closed Edit Rotate sid
26. M1 and accept the selection M2 Choose one end of the line as the center point of the rotation M1 Choose the other end of the line as the base point of the rotation M1 Move the mouse and choose the destination of the rotation M1 Rotate the line selecting the center point and the base point of the rotation with the mouse and typing the distance from the keyboard l 25 Select the line M1 accept the selection M2 Choose one end of the line as the center point of the rotation use Snap to End Point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact M1 Choose the other end of the line as the base point of the rotation M1 Type from keyboard 5 lt Enter gt rotating distance is then 5 cm Web Page Tutorials Rotate the line selecting the center point of the rotation with mouse and typing the rotation angle from keyboard 1 Select the line M1 accept the selection M2 2 Choose one end of the line as the center point of the rotation use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact M1 3 Type from keyboard 30 Enter rotation angle is then 300 EXERCISE 11 Exercise in rotating points Clear the screen using command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Draw a rectangle Choose the command Draw Rectangle and then enter two opposite corners of the rectangle M1 M1 Rotate the left side of the rectangle 5 cm to the left counterclockwise Choose the command Point Rotate vert
27. Page Tutorials lt F9 gt Pan to Mouse The view is moved to place the current mouse location at the center of the drawing area For the following hold down the lt Ctrl gt key while typing the given Function key lt Ctrl gt lt F1 gt Snap off lt Ctrl gt lt F2 gt Snap to grid Also shows the grid lt Ctrl gt lt F3 gt Snap to end point lt Ctrl gt lt F4 gt Snap to nearest lt Ctrl gt lt FS5 gt Snap to ortho lt Ctrl gt lt F6 gt Snap to mid point lt Ctrl gt lt F7 gt Snap to intersection lt Ctrl gt lt F8 gt Snap to offset lt Ctrl gt lt F9 gt Snap to distance from end point Other hot keys Snap lt Pg Up gt Zoom out lt Pg Down gt Zoom in lt Home gt Zoom in on mouse same as lt F3 gt lt End gt Zoom All Shows all objects Arrow keys Pan left right up down Snap functions are very helpful when using the editing commands Often when you have to be exact they is necessary It is worth while getting acquainted with them and learning to use them Snap functions set limits to the movements of the mouse and taking seize of a point lt Ctrl F1 gt Snap Off There are no snap points Ctrl F2 Snap to Grid The nearest grid point Ctrl F3 Snap to End Point The nearest vertex of an object Ctrl F4 Snap to Nearest The nearest point on an object whether or not it s a vertex Ctrl F5 Snap to Ortho The nearest point on a horizontal or vertical line from the last point you
28. Since the corner point the end point of the arc and the point below that one form a right angle the neckline forms a square corner where it meets the center back line This is important to remember so we will repeat The angle from the corner point to the end of the arc to the point after that is the angle at which the end of the arc meets the next line This also means that to make an arc that is tangent blends in smoothly with the next line the three points should lie along a straight line When you are satisfied with the neckline click the left mouse button Select destination point SELECTION WINDOWS You may have wondered about the prompt you saw earlier that said Select point w for selection window Selection windows are a way to make sure every vertex in a certain area is selected This is especially handy if there are a lot of vertices in a small area For our example you will use a selection window to delete some unneeded points Look at the lower part of your sloper Near the waistline there are some X s marking vertices that were created when you did the CUT and JOIN functions earlier They don t hurt anything but you can tidy up the drawing a little by removing them Select the DELETE VERTEX command This is the equivalent of the ERASE command for objects Select Points Delete Vertex Instead of clicking on some points to select them type w you don t need to press the Enter key W The promp
29. a symbol definition CREATING A SYMBOL LIBRARY To create a symbol library simply save a drawing that has the desired symbols defined Any ordinary drawing file that has one or more symbols defined can be read as a symbol library This is so simple that it won t be covered in this tutorial Note Even though you can t see it a symbol definition is part of a drawing This means that it is saved when you save a drawing to a file and when you open a new drawing the previous symbol definitions are not part of the drawing THE EXPLODE COMMAND The EXPLODE command can do two things it will replace a symbol insertion with a group of objects without changing the symbol definition or it will replace a polygon object with a group of line segments In both cases the result looks the same as the original but you can work with the individual parts separately Select Symbols Explode Select large rectangle Select any symbol insertion lt ESC gt Select Move command Select left edge of large rectangle Select square from just exploded insertion lt ESC gt Select any base point Move mouse You will see the pieces of the exploded items move while the remainders stay put This verifies that they really were broken up You don t need to finish the MOVE command 54 Tutorial 10 Symbols and Library Files lt ESC gt The PURGE UNUSED command deletes all unused symbol definitions from memory It will not be covered in
30. already have the needed ease at the neck opening and at the armscyes and the sleeves Using these macros you need to add ease only to the pants part of the overall Exercise 11 A flared collar Use the basic bodice macro for this exercise File Macro Lbodice mac Erase the sleeve and its center line Edit Erase Rotate the front side piece so that the shoulder bust dart is closed Edit Rotate CtrIF3 The center point of the rotation is the dart apex point the base point of the rotation is the right side point of the shoulder bust dart points on the shoulder and the destination point of the rotation is the left side point of the shoulder bust dart points on the shoulder Design the shape of the collar upon the front piece the collar Draw Polygon For this purpose draw guide circles at the front neck shoulder point radius 10 and the front neck CF point radius 14 cm Draw Circle CtrlF3 14 lt Enter gt 135 Web Page Tutorials 136 Base start of rotation a Correct shape m needed ps Base point 5 a CB Of rotation Using the guide circles draw the shape of the front collar Draw Poly CtrlF3 Refer to the picture Notice that there are arcs and lines in the collar In the picture the arc corner points round points are marked with letter R When you come to the starting point of an arc change the polygon tool to arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 and choosing the option Arc X
31. and end of the distance to be dimensioned Click on two points on the screen The program will connect them with a line and two arrows It will ask you for the Location for label Click another point and you will get a dimension line Seam Allowance If you want to have a seam allowance that is offset by different seam widths at different points on your pattern you can select a partial section of an object enter a seam width and Web Page Tutorials then continue selecting more sections and giving them different seam widths The dialog box that asks you for the seam width gives you choices of OK to continue or Open or Closed to stop drawing the seam allowance After you finish drawing the seam allowance PatternMaker asks you if you want to group it with the original object see Group command Note The Seam Allowance command may not work well for objects that contain sharp angles or inward bends or that overlap or cross over themselves Most normal pattern pieces will not have this problem unless they contain darts One way to avoid this problem is to draw the dart as a separate object from the main pattern piece Offset This is similar to the Seam Allowance command and creates a polygon object that is offset a given constant distance from an existing polygon This is for creating seam allowances You can put the offset object on either the inside or outside of the original EDIT Undo Undo last change made to the drawing M
32. arrows going in or out are zoom functions Click the mouse on the icon with a rectangle and an arrow pointing left Select Pan Left icon Now pan right so the view goes back to where it was Select Pan Right icon You can experiment with the other zoom and pan icons on your own Now let s start drawing the object For the first point type 1 1 lt ENTER gt RELATIVE COORDINATES We want to draw a line up the center back seam This length is 23 75 inches You don t want to measure from the origin you want to measure from the point you just entered so type the relative coordinates 0 23 75 lt ENTER gt The 0 means the x distance from the first point is 0 The 23 75 means the new point is 23 75 inches above the previous point DRAW A CURVE Now draw the neckline Press lt ESC gt and a box will appear titled Point Type Options Tutorial 3 Entering Inputs Click the left mouse button on the line that says Arc X Select Arc X from box and you will get the prompt messages Input next pornt ESC Lor Options Option x are Inpur Qorduer Jornt or are ESC Sor obLtLons The corner point controls the shape of a curved line This can t be measured precisely but you can do it by eye Turn the grid on F4 and use the mouse to enter a point about 1 inches to the right of your last point and level with it Or type the absolute coordinates 2 5 24 7 ENTER Move the mouse around now
33. as done in many programs where accuracy isn t required doesn t work in PatternMaker Use mouse clicks For example to draw a line click once at each end e Ifall else fails read the manual You will be pleasantly surprised at the wisdom it contains The only purpose of the manual is to help you use the program so don t be afraid of it TUTORIAL 1 GETTING PATTERNMAKER STARTED If you are used to running programs in Windows the first part of this tutorial will be familiar to you If you have purchased the entire PatternMaker system PatternMaker is installed on the computer when you get it and you can skip the installation If you know how to run other programs in Windows you can start using PatternMaker right away because most basic operations such as opening a file or selecting a command work the same way for PatternMaker as for other Windows programs PART 1 INSTALLING PATTERNMAKER This tutorial assumes that you will install PatternMaker on your C drive in a directory called C Program Files PatternMaker Software PatternMaker and that your CD drive is the D drive If your computer is set up differently you should already know about it and you can modify your commands accordingly Installation of PatternMaker is easy Just follow these simple steps RUN THE CD BROWSER Put the PatternMaker CD in your CD ROM drive If your system is set up to run CDs automatically you can skip to the section called Install Components F
34. by choosing the command File Save As from the menu and give the file a name of your choice The PatternMaker file extension PAT is automatically added so you don t have to type it In the dialog box for saving you can also choose the directory where you want to save the file Later on after giving the file a name you can save it with the command File Save Please notice that there also are icons for saving and opening a file Web Page Tutorials ELEMENTARY TUTORIAL 2 Lesson 2 Note In this tutorial an abbreviation of M1 is used for the left button of the mouse and an abbreviation of M2 for the right button of the mouse Other abbreviations CF center front CB center back 2nd lesson e Moving objects and points e Grouping objects e Copying objects e Rotating objects and points e Cutting and joining objects e Mirroring objects e Aligning point e More design exercises e The menu bar e Printing Moving objects Moving objects is done using the command Edit Move and moving points by the command Point Move Vertex Choose the command first and then proceed as illustrated in the picture below Exercise 4 95 Web Page Tutorials M12 lett mouse Button Mt right mouse Button Moving and copying objects Viselect the objects to be movedscopied hit hd1 hid accept the selection hie 3 point starting point af mowin mye hid P gwe destination of movingfcopying hii The object amp maoved copied
35. command is still active and you cannot choose a new command If the command is in purple you can click in the drawing area with the mouse and the command is repeated Or you can choose a new command Icon area toolbar On the left edge of the screen there is a vertical bar for the icons The selection of icons changes depending on the situation We shall explain the function of the icons later on in this tutorial Drawing area The black part of the screen is the drawing area Macros produce patterns in this area When you are executing a drawing or editing command you will usually click the mouse on items in the drawing area Command line The bottommost blue bar the screen is the command line There you can read what the program is doing and what it wants you to do next Learn to look for instructions in this command line when you don t know what you should do Layers In the black drawing area there are many layers superimposed one over another You can use the layers to organize your pattern for instance by placing the different sizes of the garment 36 38 40 on different layers or different garments for one customer skirt jacket blouse on different layers You 83 Web Page Tutorials 84 can change the settings of the layers by clicking the layer box in the status bar Layer 0 with M1 You can name the layers whatever you want Click in the box for a layer s name with M1 and write the new name on top of the
36. display the existing points As you draw skip over the waist darts and the waist side curve at the center front and at the center back Also make the curve a little deeper at the thigh and the knee area deactivate snap CtrlF1 for this Note too that there are arc points in the patterns These points determine the shapes of curves You recognize arc points by looking for the green points which do not lie on a line but beside it When you come to this kind of a point in the drawing change the polygon tool to the arc mode M2 Arc x click on the arc point and then change back to the line mode after the arc M2 Line If you find this difficult you can draw the object with corner points and change the points needed to round points after you have finished drawing the object Point Round vertex 4 Move the leggings pattern to another place Remove the original pattern pieces Draw the grain line for the leggings pattern Draw Line Use snap to midpoint CtrlF6 to place the line exactly on the midpoints of the waist and the cuff Hold the mouse still and wait for the cursor to stop moving before you click on the midpoint Calculating midpoints while the mouse is moving is a lot of work for your computer s processor so it may be slow to respond when you are in snap to midpoint mode If you find it difficult to keep the cursor in its place you can instead of clicking the mouse on the midpoint accept the point by typing lt Ente
37. entered 03 Web Page Tutorials 94 e Ctrl F6 gt Snap to Midpoint The nearest midpoint between two vertices of an object e Ctrl F7 gt Snap to Intersect The nearest intersection of two lines or objects e Ctrl F8 gt Snap to Offset A point offset from two lines of an object When you select Snap to offset you will be asked for two distances these will be the offsets from the two lines This is for making seam allowances and facings from existing pattern pieces e Ctrl F9 gt Snap to Measured Distance A point a specified distance from an existing vertex The distance is measured along the edge of the object rather than in a straight line Use this mode to place a point a certain distance from the end of a curved line HINT Snap functions require lots of computations so they will use a lot of your computer s processing power especially snap to intersection Crtl F7 gt Snaps Crl F6 gt lt Crtl F6 and Crtl F9 gt will slow your computer when they are activated unnecessarily Don t keep them activated if not necessary Snap to endpoint lt Crtl F3 is often useful and there usually is no harm in keeping it active while working Saving a file It is important to save the file that you are working with every now and then Then it won t be a catastrophe if you make an error which you cannot annul with the command Edit Undo Please remember that you can annul only the latest execution of a command Save the file
38. given distance into given direction If vou Select front piecesyta be movdd and gme this point as f ji the start point and this as the end point Front pieces will move so that they touch back piece fyou type as the start pointO 0 fram the keyboard zEnter and as end point 2 43 zEnterz the object iz moved 2 em to the right and 4 cm up Ifyou point the start point with mouse hdi and type the end point fram the keyboard in farm me 4 zEnter the object amp moved 2 cm to the right and 4 cm up fromthe given point Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Choose the command Edit Move Select the pattern piece object you want to move with M1 Accept the selection M2 22 2 2 o to move the piece to MI Run the macro Lbodice mac Move one of the pattern pieces it doesn t matter where as follows Choose the starting base point of the move preferably inside the piece MI Move the mouse and select the end destination point of the move at the place where you want Exercise 5 Undo the move with the command Edit Undo Now move the side panel of the front pattern 2 cm to the right from the CF piece 1 The move command is now ready to repeat and you do not need to choose it again look at the command box at the top right corner of the screen to see that the command appears in purple 96 dA MP LE Web Page Tutori
39. in the Points menu Read the appropriate manual sections for details on how they work Briefly here is what they do Add Vertex adds another vertex to an object For example you could change a triangle to a rectangle Delete Vertex removes one or more vertices Move Vertex moves one or more vertices Rotate Vertex rotates one or more vertices Delete Segment removes one line segment from an object This will change a closed object to an open object and can cut an open object into two objects Corner Vertex converts one or more arcs to straight lines and corners Round Vertex converts one or more straight lines and corners to arcs 33 Tutorial 6 Point Edit Functions 34 Align X aligns two or more points in the X horizontal direction The first point you select is the reference point the other points will be moved to align with it Align Y aligns two or more points in the Y vertical direction Set Measure Dist measures the distance along a curve or section of an object If you type in a new distance the curve or section will be adjusted to the length you enter When you are done experimenting you are done with this tutorial Exit PatternMaker and don t save your latest changes Select File Exit N TUTORIAL 7 POLYGONS TEXT AND DIMENSION OBJECTS WITH COLORS AND FILL PATTERNS You have created open and closed polygons lines and rectangles in the previous tutorials All of these are really special cases of polyg
40. is added onto the object The width is the same width that you set with the OFFSET command Notice that the ends of the seam allowance are not square they are flared slightly so that if you fold them back they will match up with the rest of the piece Add a seam allowance to the corresponding edge of the other piece of the sloper Select Draw Seam Allowance Select top segment of bottom sloper piece ESC Save your work Select File Exit Y If you have PatternMaker Home or Expert you are now done with the tutorials Start using PatternMaker to make your own patterns and keep reading the manual as you learn the system better and better If you have PatternMaker Marker version go on to the next tutorial to learn how to arrange and print markers for production 61 62 TUTORIAL 12 MARKERS Note This tutorial applies to the Marker version only PatternMaker s marker functions let you arrange pattern pieces to make production markers The CUT RATIO function prepares the pieces by making multiple copies of each one each size according to its cut ratio To use material most efficiently the ARRANGE MARKER function lets you move pieces next to each other so they just touch PatternMaker calculates the percentage of material used in the marker so you can find the most efficient arrangement The marker report lists other information such as the cut ratio and yardage requirements The PRINT MARKER function prints the m
41. is generally not recommended as your drawings would be invisible Select the yellow one by clicking the mouse on it then click the OK button 47 Tutorial 9 Layers 48 Select yellow square in COLOR box Click the OK button You will return to the Set Edit Layers dialog box The square that used to be cyan is now yellow TURNING LAYERS ON AND OFF This is by far the most important function of the LAYER command Right now all the layers are turned on You can turn any layer off by clicking the mouse on the word ON You can turn a layer on again by clicking on the word OFF To make everything except the size 14 sloper disappear turn off layers 0 1 and 3 Toggle layer 0 to OFF Toggle layer 1 to OFF Toggle layer 3 to OFF Click OK button to close the dialog box and return to the drawing screen Select OK button The picture is redrawn The only object that appears is the size 14 sloper Its color has changed from cyan to yellow In the status bar the message LayerO has changed to Sizel4 Anything you draw now will be on Layer 2 since that s the one you marked with the asterisk and if you don t use the COLOR command to give new objects a color they will be drawn in yellow The objects in the layers you turned off still exist but you can t see them You also can t select them for any editing functions you can t print them and none of the snap modes will snap to any of them The Layer co
42. old one SetfEdit Layers Current MH ame Color On LaverL One of the layers is active at a time Drawing commands and the macros produce objects on the layer which is active Activate a layer by clicking with M1 in its Current column The layers can be visible or hidden To hide a layer click with M1 in the On column to change it to Off The printing command Print All prints the objects all the layers which are On So if you want to print the items on one layer only turn the other layers off HINT When you make alterations to the fashion patterns or basic bodice sloper which you have drawn using the macros run the macro twice first on layer 0 and then on layer I Then hide layer 0 Make the alterations to the patterns on layer 1 From time to time you can display layer 0 and compare the changed patterns with the original ones This is a good way to check that you have made all the changes you intended to do PatternMaker commands General instructions Most commands are run in the following way l 2 First you choose the command from the menu bar or by clicking upon an icon Then you select with M1 all the objects which you want the command to affect After the selection s have been made it they are accepted with M2 or lt ESC gt If you are executing the erase command it is performed now If you are executing one of the move or rotating commands the following step is to give the base and destination points
43. on it with the left button of the mouse M1 Or you can click M1 on the Macro icon on the left side of the screen It s the icon that says T T mac When you get the dialog box depicted below choose the macro you want to try by double clicking on its name with the left mouse button M1 or click on its name once and then click OK TI Web Page Tutorials 78 1 Babi J Ladies vol 1 Lbodice mac l Lehirt mac Chi I Ladies val 2 Leollar mac il Lekirt mac a 1 Lingerie Ldress mac 1 Ladies jackets J Men Youths E L jacket mac J Ladies pants F Misses E Lpants mac J Ladies skirts ll Lblouse mac E Loulloy mac Files of type Macro File mac Cancel Open as read only The program asks different things for different garments single or double breasted with or without sleeve amount of ease etc Choose the options by double clicking on the option or click on the option once and then click lt OK gt Note You have to choose an option in each dialog box If you click lt OK gt or type lt Enter gt without choosing any option the macro stops Next a dialog box for the measurements is opened Instructions for taking the measurements are given later in this tutorial Move from field to field in the dialog box with lt TAB gt key or by clicking the mouse M1 Web Page Tutorials VA BASIC BODICE VA BASIC BODICE After having answered to all the questions and given the
44. part of Select the point on the arm hole It is three inches from the reference vertex measuring along the curve Select snap point on arm hole To avoid confusion take PatternMaker out of snap mode as soon as you are done using the snap mode lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt You have now placed a dot at the point where the reference mark goes Normally you would put a standard diamond or notch symbol here Symbols are covered in a later tutorial and you will find some examples in the file LIBRARY PAT For the tutorials you don t need to save the alignment mark Select File Exit N You now know how to use snap points to give your commands precise inputs In the next tutorial you will learn some of the point editing functions and we will use some more snap modes for these 29 30 TUTORIAL 6 POINT EDIT FUNCTIONS In this tutorial you will use some of the commands from the Points menu to change the shape of your sloper Start PatternMaker and open the file BACKSLOPER PAT that you created in Tutorial 3 and modified in Tutorial 5 Open file BACKSLOPER PAT You should see the sloper object the horizontal waist line you drew and the box around them If you don t press lt END gt to put them in view Remember that you drew these objects by entering the points or vertices that make them up Let s use the Points On Off function to look at these again lt F5 gt A number of X s will appear all over the drawing
45. point of the rotation M1 and the lower vertex of the dart at the CF as the destination point of the rotation M1 Rotate accordingly the upper part of the center back piece to close the temporary dart at the CB and to move it to the shoulder Join the front and back center pieces together into whole pieces Exercise 10 Drafting patterns for an overall 1 a First make preparations for the top part of the overall and run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Erase all other pattern pieces but the front and the back pieces Do not erase the back dart piece Use command Edit Erase select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 accept and execute the command with M2 b Draw a line to cut the pieces at the waist level as in the picture Draw Line CtrlF3 Start the line at the CF waist point and end at the CB waist point Then cut the pieces with the line Edit Cut Choose the command select the CF piece M1 accept M2 then select the cutting line M1 accept and execute the command M2 Cut the same way also the front side piece and the back piece as well as the back dart piece Erase the cutting lines and all pieces under the waist level Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 MI accept the selection and execute the command with M2 131 Web Page Tutorials 1a z cm inati zc Destination Esse zb Selection m 2 window i i EK l Point to rotate about Mie Select
46. the command select the topmost of the pieces M1 accept M2 and the second from the top M1 M2 Select again the topmost piece which now is a combination of the two joined top pieces M1 M2 and the next piece M1 M2 Join the collar piece by piece in this way Exercise 12 A draped dress 1 Use the dress macro for this exercise File Macro Ldress mac Erase the sleeve the back pieces and the facings Make a mirror copy of the front pieces Edit Mirror CtrlF3 Choose the command select the front pieces M1 M1 and accept M2 Then choose as the top end of the reflection line the CF line top the neck vertex M1 and as the bottom end of the reflection line the CF bottom the hem vertex M1 2 Draw a cutting line across the mirrored front side piece as in the picture Draw Poly CtrlF3 Because you need more than two vertices for the line you have to use the polygon tool and not the line tool Select as the starting point of the line any point outside the armscye M1 as the second point of the line the bust apex point M1 and as the end point of the line any point outside the original front side piece M1 open the polygon menu with M2 and conclude the command by choosing Open done from the options Cut the mirrored front side piece with this line Edit Cut Choose the command choose the object to be cut mirrored front side piece M1 accept M2 and then the piece to cut with the cutting line M1 M2 3 Tran
47. the end of an arc 2 A starting point of an arc 3 A corner point of an arc 4 An open point which marks the end of an open polygon Note You can display and hide the points using the function key F5 The anatomy of an arc To be able to use arcs in a controlled way as parts of the patterns you need to know something about the anatomy of an arc The location of the corner point of an arc determines the shape of the arc Two rules e If the corner point end point and the point after that form a straight line the arc merges smoothly into the next segment of the object whether it is a line or an arc A sleeve cap is an example where there are many successive arcs and they must merge into each other nicely without kinks e If the corner point end point and the point after that form an angle the arc is merged into the following segment of the object at that angle This kind of corner is needed in neck openings and armscyes of garment patterns 88 Web Page Tutorials Arc X 21 gwe comer point 1 give starting point r n Ps zl Automatic arc Y PRE The corner paint amp placed so that the arc amp 3 give end point tangent to the previous segment of the object Previous point C 1 give starting point iik Arc through point Z 2 give end point Arc will qa through gwen paint and the corner point amp calculated by the program PE Corner point PUES Comer point determined by the Starting point i dete
48. to be rotated about M1 marked in the picture and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard 5 Enter 3 b rotate the rightmost new piece of the sleeve clockwise use command Edit Rotate When typing the distance from the keyboard type 5 Enter The negative number means the rotation is to be made clockwise 4 Move the center piece of the sleeve 6 cm up Edit Move choose the command select the piece to be moved with M1 accept M2 Type as the base point of the move 0 0 Enter and as the destination of the move 0 6 Enter 5 Draw the new shape of the sleeve along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtrlF3 If needed correct the shape of the sleeve cap by moving one or more vertices Point Move vertex Note that both sides of the sleeve cap are formed of two arcs with a line in between In order for the arcs to merge smoothly into each other the corner point of each arc should lie along the same line as the straight segment To learn more about shaping arcs please refer to the Web Tutorial 1 The anatomy of an arc Exercise 2 An overcoat based on the jacket patterns 1 a Run the jacket macro File Macro Use the maximum ease option bust circumference 16 cm Type the length according to your wishes e g 60 cm b Add 4 cm ease to the garment the ease of the overcoat will be 16 4 20 cm Add the ease by moving the right side vertices of the center front piece 1 cm to the right and the left sid
49. to given measurements The procedure is very simple and you do not need to know anything about the grading PatternMaker macros have been programmed using the Scandinavian pattern drafting system Therefore you need to use the Scandinavian default measurements for grading the patterns you have drafted with it These measurements are given at the end of this section To read more about the program and the macros go to my main page Wwww leenas com Run the basic bodice macro in two sizes one smaller e g size 40 and one the next bigger size 42 Position the pattern pieces so that they meet at CF and CB lines and at hem Then draw the grading arrows from the vertices of the smaller size to the corresponding vertices of the bigger size Use snap to end point to be exact CtrlF3 You have to use the Scandinavian measurements other standard measurements sets might not have all the measurements needed To convert the Scandinavian sizes into the American ones compare the bust circumference measurements Follow the instructions below Run the basic bodice macro with the default measurements Scandinavian 42 on layer 1 Before running the macro change layer 1 to be the current layer Click on the black box at the top part of the screen with LayerO text on Then click in the current column of layer 1 in the dialog box opened Click Done to accept the choice Then run the basic bodice macro with the measurements for Scandinavian size 4
50. using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not 2 Run the macro Lshirt mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements offered by clicking OK and OK with Ml Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the End key 3 Erase the sleeve and its centerline as well as the collar and the cuff pieces using the command Edit Erase Select the objects to be erased one by one M1 M1 And accept the selection M2 4 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the End key 5 Choose the command Point Rotate vertex Continue the exercise according to the picture below Cutting and joining objects EXERCISE 14 In this exercise you learn how to cut objects 101 Web Page Tutorials 102 1 choose command E dit C ut Z2 select the abject to be cut the rectangle hid accept the selection hit 3 select the abject ta be cut with the line hii accept the selection hit Mowe the pieces apart tram each other ta see the result 1 choose command Edit ldowve z select one af the pieces M1 accept he 3 point tha base of the moving inside the object to be mowed hat e mowe the mouse and point the destination of the moving wld Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Draw a rectangle using the command Draw Rectangle Choose on the screen two opposite corners o
51. 0 to layer 0 Use the measurements in the attached table Before running the macro change layer 0 to the current layer Move the pattern pieces so that they meet at the CF and the CB lines and at hems Move the sleeve pieces 147 Web Page Tutorials so that they meet at the left side cuff vertex Remember to choose also the center line of the sleeve when you do the moving Draw grading arrows from the vertices of the smaller size to the vertices of the bigger size First point the vertex of the smaller size with the left button of the mouse and accept the choice with the right button of the mouse Then point the corresponding vertex of the bigger size with the left button of the mouse and accept the choice with the right button of the mouse Use snap to end point to be exact CtrlF3 It is enough to add grading arrows to the corners of the pieces Arron Arrow Arron EEO Arrow Arrow Tack Arrow Tack E g in the back piece you should add grading arrows to the following vertices e Back side hem vertex e Armpit vertex of the armscye e Shoulder tip at the armscye e Shoulder vertex at the neck opening e Back neck point at the neck opening Add grading tacks to the following vertices of the back piece e The hem point of the CB e The CB point which is on the same vertical level with the armpit vertex i e the last but one vertex before the neck vertex on the CB line from hem to neck Add grading arrows to all vertices of t
52. 1 Exercise 3 patterns for leggings from the basic pants patterns 1 Run the basic pants macro File Macro Give as the cuff circumference the final desired cuff circumference of the leggings e g 28 cm Remove pockets waistband zipper placket grain lines and the pocket mouth line from the front piece Edit Erase 2 Make a mirror image copy of the front piece Use command Edit Mirror select the front piece M1 accept M2 give any vertical line as the line to be reflected against use snap to ortho if you need CtrIF5 Erase the original front piece Move the mirrored front piece so that it touches the back piece at the hem Edit Move CtrlF3 Choose the command select the front piece M1 and accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the leftmost vertex of the cuff of the front piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the rightmost vertex of the cuff of the back piece M1 Rotate back piece so that it meets the front piece at the hip Edit Rotate The point to be rotated about is the shared vertex of the cuffs M1 and the base point of the rotation is any point on the screen M1 Move the mouse and click M1 again when you are satisfied with the distance of the rotation the front and the back hips meet 119 Web Page Tutorials 120 a bun b Radius 3 20 cm 3 Draft the leggings pattern by tracing along the existing points of the front and the back piece Draw Poly CtrlF3 Use F5 to
53. 4 kinds of objects 86 Web Page Tutorials Cree Pogon 8 pointe Sy riba rae es Line Polygon 2 points ext Text e Size in cm or inches depending on which units you have chosen to use e Direction in degrees or 90 degrees for vertical text 180 degrees for upside down text etc e The default font style can be changed using the command Misc Settings Font Dimension line e Straight dimension from one point to another The points do not need to be vertices of an object Symbol You can add buttonholes grain lines notches etc to the patterns using the command Draw Symbol Hint Another way to add buttonholes and notches is by using the command Point Notch Another way to draw grain line is to draw a vertical line using the command Draw Line and snap to ortho we discuss snaps later in this tutorial Polygons Polygons can be open or closed This is significant when you want to fill a polygon with a filling pattern You can fill only a closed polygon You can change an open polygon to closed using the command Edit Close Object 87 Web Page Tutorials Points vertices Open polygon EM Line point Line point il e Open polygon starting point of an arc Closed polygon Line point Corner point of an arc Line point Mun os End point of an arc Polygons are made of points There are also 4 kinds of different points Line point is at the end of a straight line or
54. AP KOT Report mU c 68 Prmu nseog MOPROESS deu ede Hin nimr nr A 69 WEB PAGE TUTORIALS siia Eo raERFR E FRE REESE REMISE EIS FEE EEEN TIE TC Nro Ye E REN Yr IEEE EE ERU ENS T1 Elementary Tutorial F Esso et retenu ovi n Qi Ee UR VEO e eU 73 Elementary NICE e 95 Advanced Tutorial Design EX rcises oi eeeee a eve en vere Ye yu aaa ua Sev Ea ev uH er eoe eee vea Eo ee Poe e Ee ERE E ar E UN 116 Ady anced mMtorial Gradini 5 ono eT OHNE ER E 147 PREFACE TO TUTORIALS Welcome to the convenience of PatternMaker Software These tutorials will help you get started with PatternMaker computer aided design Work through the tutorials in order Read the sections in the manual that apply to the subjects the tutorials are covering too The tutorials give you a way to get started very quickly in PatternMaker but they don t give a complete explanation of they subjects they cover TUTORIAL CONVENTIONS As you work through these tutorials you will notice that some words or phrases appear in different typefaces Here s what it all means Anything you should type will be in boldface print The names of special keys such as the Enter key Return on some keyboards are set aside in angle brackets For instance Press lt ENTER gt Anywhere you see two special keys listed together such as lt CTRL gt lt FI1 gt you need to hold down the first key while typing th
55. ATES Use x and y coordinates to enter the corners of the rectangle Type 0 0 lt ENTER gt for your rectangle s first point The first number is the horizontal or x coordinate The second is the vertical or y coordinate Type 12 26 lt ENTER gt for the second point At this point your prompt line will look like this Enter a point lt ESC gt to cancel 0 0 DecoOnd Donum SESC Re lt ancels41 2 26 Command TO SEE THE FULL DRAWING You can t see much because the rectangle is mostly off the edge of the screen Press lt END gt to center the rectangle in the drawing area The lower left corner of the rectangle is at the origin coordinates 0 0 You can check this by putting the cursor on this point and looking at the mouse coordinates Don t worry if it isn t exact your typed inputs are more precise than pointing with the mouse 13 Tutorial 3 Entering Inputs 14 The upper right corner of the rectangle is at 12 26 This means it is 12 inches to the right of the origin and 26 inches above it Now start drawing the sloper using the POLY command The POLY icon looks like a pencil drawing some lines Click on it to start the POLY command Select POLY icon ZOOMING AND PANNING WITH ICONS Notice that the icons in the icon area have changed The icons containing yellow x s change snap modes which are covered in Tutorial 5 The ones showing a movie camera and an arrow are the pan functions the ones with
56. Notice that as you are using snap to grid CtrlF2 the cursor moves from grid point to grid point Select the rest of the points with mouse M1 going along the grid points as follows Web Page Tutorials point B count 5 points from point A to the left and click with mouse M1 then change to arc mode M2 Arc x point C count 10 points from point B to the left M1 point D count 10 points to the left and 3 points down M1 change back to line mode M2 Line point E count 5 points to the right and 6 points down M1 change to arc mode M2 Arc x point F count 5 points to the right M1 point G count 5 points to the right and 1 5 points up please notice that as we are using a grid 1x1 cm there isn t any grid point here Therefore deactivate snap to grid CtrlF1 select the point by eye and activate snap to grid again CtrlF2 point H count 5 points to the right and 1 5 points up point J count 5 points to the right M1 and finish M2 Done closed Exercise 5 A long evening skirt 1 Run the skirt macro giving as the length of the skirt 90 cm File Macro Lskirt mac Remove the lining and the waist band Edit Erase Draw guide lines at the front and back waist of the skirt Draw Line as in the picture i e three lines per piece and one line for the Zipper extension 2 Move the lines 3 cm up Edit Move Choose the command select the lines one by one M1 M1 MI and accept the selection M2 Type as the sta
57. O Lidia E E PE tide iiec un Made eode S 65 defini PICCES averte utes er nece etia 63 marker Teno Genin tet dede deti cate iita odis as 68 PACKING DIGCOSicnsueissutieonscm eter epet nS cxtat seta t Eod 67 USM Noh whch ent dte obit erit uda defe s 69 Settimo CULTIU O cde tror t re tere 62 65 Setting market ALC eon cerea cerato idle ed duda 64 Menu lori T e A 7 MIRROR command erreia rete 22 moditying POLYSONS oenas tese edi dote taa 35 MOV EB COmtnalid zs uui era ti ore teet 18 MOVE VERTEX command 30 31 33 O objects Dimension Iles ree sie RE e tates 36 DEOUDITIDA teet oe rote tebacu oer telles iba dra eDim Ut 20 Ine IM 18 POLV BOH es ete eh eri oe a t ERE tee head 16 35 SC CCN ER S 18 SY MbOL MMSCHHIOM eoe dictio ie teer ortae 50 E 38 Uti rOUDITIO casera ooa o teh eet c Ade 2 OPESET Comida e dg eco E eros 57 OPEN COMMA qu oce eoe Cote eroe ect taedet ev tied 10 OPS MINS ACPA WIN esses aee ad se rt ibt XU oc ER Te ep Ute bt sedg uds 10 P PACK CODIImands sd piece outs a 67 PAN COPI us pore Ee otto a eee e eo 11 14 parts ofthe SOlCON tiro oE DU UL o oer E 7 PATTERN Command noie orci e nine ina i 35 point types PU EUER 14 WONG SE meinen E mans stast 15 points HE CNG tativess cesses reo Roto sepius See DELETE VERTEX Selecting with WIDQOW uie i ertragen netu tat 32 SHOWING MIGING esse pict e derd en ta oet d 2 kainas 11 30
58. OFFSET command is a quick and simple way to draw a seam allowance that is the same width all the way around an object It works very similarly to the SEAM ALLOWANCE command except that there is only one dialog box in which to enter a measurement CHANGE THE LINE STYLE Wouldn t it be better if the seam allowance was drawn with dashed lines Select the CHANGE OBJECT command Choose the seam allowance object you just created and press lt ESC gt You will be asked to choose an attribute to change select Line Type When the list of line types appears select one of the dashed styles Select Change Object command Select seam allowance object Select LINETYPE Select dashed line type 57 Tutorial 11 Offsets Seam Allowances and Facings 58 SNAP TO OFFSET Because the seam allowance object may cause confusion in the following procedure you should erase it now Each point of an existing object creates offset snap points so until you are used to Snap to Offset it s best not to have any extra objects around Zoom in on the neck line until 8 10 grid points fill the width of the screen Select Erase command Erase seam allowance object Zoom in on neckline Now you will draw a 1 inch facing to go on the neckline Select blue as your drawing color this is SO you can see the new object clearly Select Color command Select blue Select the POLY function Select POLY command The first point of the facin
59. PatteniVeker Sditware PatternMaker Version 6 TUTORIALS PatternMaker for Windows for PC compatible computers running Windows 95 and higher Version 6 PatternMaker Software PO Box 70306 Bellevue WA 98007 425 644 8161 Authors Brian Pickrell Jim Pickrell Tamara Vlasuk Revised 2 00 Copyright 1994 2002 by PatternMaker Software All rights reserved No part of this manual shall be reproduced stored in a retrieval system or transmitted by any means electronic mechanical or otherwise without permission from PatternMaker Software with the exception of quoting brief passages for the purpose of reviews Table of Contents PREFACE TO TUTORIALS insana a a aa aaan 1 TUTORIAL 1 GETTING PATTERNMAKER STARTED 3 Part I Installing PatternMaker ioo tht to ERE EP ERBEN REESE REN EROR RR ERN EN KU Ee Ee NE Fk Pa aere Yee eno PP ET IES 3 Babes Ronnie PJUHeEm Vl dE CE usn EEUU EEUU IEEE 6 TUTORIAL 2 OPENING A DRAWING AND VIEWING IT 10 Open a CE AWG Lu 10 TUTORIAL 3 ENTERING INPUTS ccsscnsessssccnsccnsscnsecenenesensecnseensscnnecensnesensennsess 13 ADsolute COOK OINATES eiisscccesscccsccsssccescsesscssssssssssscssscssssssscssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssessssasssasssass 13 IedEibrEeinellibir me M 14 Relative aunple polar coor
60. TIQ e cce ees ANE iibi tU rug digo OE 11 15 DAV CES od cmi acere EE N Oe EN itn UE TON c Edi 48 points VEIICES Machete Ha Ep ASIE CO UAR 11 30 36 snap modes COMPSON 4 nier e ER Rev ad du ez aevi o ue TER 27 Snap to End POTE ora ee beret ce ue Oboe Seton 27 Snap Eo OEIO uio obe Fi tete trea Deo ep gute cure ua 26 Snap to Measured Distance sssssssees 27 28 Snap to MITdDOIDE s ior Irae de aso e opi M dedu E aewns 27 Shap EOINGEESE s ocn ette eodeni aae EN tp S Oa e Ea 27 Snap tO Osei uicit obse ear vas d za enc Deed 27 58 Snap to OFPtlOs s e oerte en etate gus da le tu Ue he vas 24 SHAD DOLES eene Erunt dius cuesta du de AER evade DUE dud 24 SEALS OAL celeber bet hai oM tar Eh be ande t E e UR n 7 8 symbols CE Ule ous uode D ie edere ue diu iu Eu dfi eiut 22 description OL ertet dee ee o catch duh eR Pag pep M M cz ga 50 INSCHIOM DOLI cousseetaie onto vas eode hee Pious Cr Gu sad 53 loading from library uui ree teat e d ted o vena 51 SAVING HDESEV fox ceteris rer Eder tr a tt Ug b RR Su Ue heu ce 54 selecting ibrary OF ii eerta c ede eve eade ee MN aO 50 T TEXT command a it o e eet edi n datis 38 GY PCC ITS core deri oed mue Re Md t putant deer ae nREReE 13 U UNDO COIN AT 0o iosci cul sesto seat tert est eoe Toi abo s 20 t erouptas ODIECLUS ee Du etesccvedie c Hepaa PaL ebesec ou drago de Praia A 21 V vertices SHOWING NIGING odere taco eet ero desti zu ete eo ando edu 11 30 VIEW enttte dETWIDS uec
61. UNCTIONS eere eene nnne 30 UTOR d Geen Ps Re Ps a ea RE ee eC ne Dee eR eRe Rae RE eae Ce aR meee 30 CHANGING THE SNAPE of an ALC Sound EE EEEEI PERIERE ETE EEE PERIERE ENS EREPEPERE eve cecoussaussvueuscecossesupuviaueess 3l Selection windows 2 icesctesebe ees evesaecbeeob hE RA caesos sb ee eb Aah 32 TUTORIAL 7 POLYGONS TEXT AND DIMENSION OBJECTS WITH COLORS AND PILL LU uL 35 Setting the drawing color o dei reta ee sauer eere enisi eae eese tuse uua vu pese esee eerie Ne ENT e eu su Raven e pW Eee E eT Ee NY 35 Setane tlie BIbpatteE sooo oie P PEE ERE HOD D Oamim Onde 35 uc ilipsswiisiiii i 36 Gucci E 38 TUTORIAL 8 INTRODUCTION TO GRADING THE RECTANGLE 40 Creatine a ra dins rule 5 4 a nhe loi elei eodein diea deu i iuh kind diui kl edel adekas uod edul tut keidisivisi e aix Vae Eu ERA 40 Create a radins fable 45225 5 vedere etin Fase Ea EYE Y Ep Eee baeo ERE i 42 Gradinmo d DICE i veer prorererer i En ir d Du rr dr cd LITE RTT TT eT Tre ere ere 44 TUTORIALS IAN EIS notatis cetaceans ecient ceases ait EI I ee 46 Chamneme the current layer orsin devtuesseusesereseseeseesaeeeek E 47 CHo moa lay aE aa E E rrrr rr ner TT yr Tree cre 47 Chanoing a layer s default CONOR visssssesssssssivasscacsces
62. UTORIAL DESIGN EXERCISES Design exercises Copyright 1998 Leena L hteenm ki Jarvenpaa Left mouse button M1 Right mouse button M2 F1 F2 etc the numbered function keys CtrlF1 etc hold down the Ctrl key while pressing the function key Other abbreviations CF center front CB center back Measurements are in centimeters If you are currently using inches use the Units command click on the X Y coordinates to select centimeters Exercise 1 Sleeve with gathers 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Remove all pattern pieces except the sleeve and its center line Edit Erase 2a l NONI B J 3 b Center point of 3 al Center point ot PER 5 Found poirt Found poirt Arc 3 uH Bb Web Page Tutorials 2 a Draw lines to cut the sleeve with Refer to the picture 2 b You must draw the left side line using the polygon tool pencil icon or Draw Poly Open because it needs to contain three vertices Draw the polygon through the apex of the elbow dart CtrlF3 to snap to the apex 2 c Cut the sleeve in turn with each of these lines Edit Cut choose the command select the object to be cut sleeve M1 accept M2 and then the cutting object line M1 accept M2 3 a rotate the leftmost new piece of the sleeve counterclockwise use command Edit Rotate select the piece M1 accept M2 choose the starting base point of the rotation M1 and the point
63. als Select the front side piece MI Accept the selection M2 Type from keyboard 0 0 Enter for the starting base point of the move Type from keyboard 2 0 Enter for the destination point of the move Exercise 6 Now move the back piece so that it touches front side piece at the hem pea qi ses The move command is now ready to repeat and you do not need to choose it again Select the back piece and its waist dart piece for moving MI MI Accept the selection M2 Choose the point where the side seam of the back piece meets the hem as the base point of the move Use snap to end point to be exact Ctrl F3 gt MI Choose the point where the side seam of the front side piece meets the hem as the destination point of the move MI Grouping objects PatternMaker objects can be grouped together When objects are grouped you can apply a command to several objects at one time The most common reason for grouping is the need to move several objects at the same time Exercise 7 Continue with the pattern you made in the previous exercise Create a group containing the back piece and its waist dart piece and move the group 1 2 3 4 Choose the command Symbol Group Select back piece M1 and its waist dart M1 Accept the selection M2 Accept the grouping in the dialog box M1 In this dialog box you can also give the group a name if you want to Try moving this group You ll notice that you can select the whole group by cli
64. ances around the pieces Exercise 19 The next exercise teaches you the easiest way to alter a normal jacket into an A line jacket Look at the picture below 105 Web Page Tutorials 106 Use snap to endpoint Ctrl F3 gt to be exact Destination of rotation PA Base of rotation of rota Destination of mat e A y Base of mowe o Mowe front pieces side by side Rotate shoulder darts until closed Mowe back pieces side by side i er Delete points of hem dart and clase the objects BRUN P oint Delete vertex Edit Cloze obj esu Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro Move the front and the back pieces so that they touch at the hem Edit Move The base and destination points of the move have been marked in the picture Rotate the shoulder bust dart of the front piece until it is closed Edit Rotate The center base and destination points of the rotation have been marked in the picture Use the snap to end point Ctrl F3 to be exact Rotate the back shoulder dart in the same way to close it Join the front and the back pieces so that you get a single front and back piece Choose the command Edit Join Select one of the pieces to be joined M1 accept M2 Select the other piece to be joined M1 accept M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen You should see ca
65. and again Note that there are always two overlapping segments one from each object in such a case Web Page Tutorials Mirroring objects EXERCISE 16 Next you are going to try mirroring objects in a real designing situation You are going to draw a facing for a front piece PUT Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not 2 Run the macro Lbodice mac using the command File Macro Accept the default measurements offered by clicking OK and OK with Ml Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the End key 3 Erase the back piece and its waist dart as well as the sleeve and its center line with the command Edit Erase Select the pieces to be erased one by one M1 M1 M1 MI and accept the selection M2 4 Zoom the drawing to fill the screen by pressing the End key Choose the command Edit Mirror Select the CF piece as the piece to be mirrored M1 and accept the selection M2 5 Choose one end of the mirror line at the CF point of the neck opening M1 and the other end at the CF point of the hip M1 use snap to end point Ctrl F3 to be exact 6 Move the mirrored facing piece 4 cm to the left to form a button extension choose the command Edit Move select the facing piece M1 and accept the selection M2 7 Type as the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 Enter and as destination point 4 0 Enter 8 Move th
66. and you can see a curve following it This is the curve that will be drawn if you click the left mouse button Instead enter the end point by typing its absolute coordinates 3 25 25 5 ENTER This is the point where the neck meets the shoulder It is 2 1 4 inches to the right of the start of the neck curve and 3 4 inch above it Now we need to draw a straight line for the shoulder line Select the Line point option lt ESC gt Select Line RELATIVE ANGLE POLAR COORDINATES Instead of relative x and y coordinates you can enter a point by giving a distance and angle The shoulder line is 534 inches long and it slopes downward at a 22 degree angle Angles are measured upwards from the horizontal For instance an angle going straight up would be 90 degrees Since our line goes down its angle is 22 degrees Use the less than symbol to indicate that the numbers you type in represent an angle 5 75 lt 22 ENTER The means that this too is a relative position To complete the sloper type in the following points and select point type options where indicated 15 Tutorial 3 Entering Inputs lt ESC gt Select Arc X 8 21 75 lt ENTER gt 8 25 18 36 lt ENTER gt 8 50 15 90 lt ENTER gt 10 50 15 60 lt ENTER gt lt ESC gt Select Line 10 50 1 ENTER lt ESC gt To finish drawing this object you can select either Open or Closed from the box A closed polygon is just like an open o
67. ap to end point CtrlF3 Then change the snap mode to Snap to Offset Snap to Offset 1 56 09 07 99 CtrlF8 In this snap mode two distances are asked If you want to define a vertex which is Distance 2 from a vertex of the original pattern piece and on the line of the original piece e g point Distance number 7 in the CF facing in the picture which is 2 from vertex 6 and on the hem line of the o K Cancel Cancel cun original pattern piece type as the distances 2 and O or 0 and 2 the order of the distances does not matter and click OK Move the mouse cursor near point 6 You will notice that you have a choice of 4 vertices which are all 2 from point 6 and on a line or an extension of the line forming the original pattern piece When you move the mouse the cursor blinks as a yellow cross on these 4 points Choose the point that corresponds to point 7 in the picture Points 8 10 are not on a line of the original pattern piece So you have to change both of the snap Web Page Tutorials 142 distances to 2 To do this type CtrlF8 enter 2 for both distances and click lt OK gt Now move the mouse cursor upwards from point 7 You will notice that the cursor jumps to a point offset from point 5 Click here to mark point 8 Continue upwards and click to create points 9 and 10 Change the snap distances again to 2 and O type CtrlF8 and click to create point 11 Now you have finished marking the points and it s t
68. ape key lt ESC gt The prompt line will now say Select object for help lt ESC gt done Polygon selected Select object for help lt ESC gt done OK Base point PatternMaker is asking you for a reference point to calculate the movement from Think of it as a handle that you are attaching to the objects to carry them by But the handle doesn t have to be on the objects you re moving it can be anywhere in the drawing Use the left mouse button to select a point somewhere near the objects you have selected Select a base point The next prompt will be Destination ESC to quit Move the mouse around Remember not to hold the mouse button down The objects you selected will move around too You will see a blue green or cyan line appear This line indicates how far you have moved the objects and is not part of the drawing Move the mouse to the right a bit then click the left button Select destination point The cyan line disappears and the word Command appears on the prompt line showing that you are done with the MOVE command 19 Tutorial 4 The Edit Functions 20 The objects have moved a distance equal to the distance from the base point to the destination For instance if the destination is three inches to the right of the base point the objects will have moved three inches to the right Any of the points you just entered could have been selected by typing the coordinates as you learne
69. ar in three different ways 1 using a frame 2 typing the points of the collar from keyboard and 3 drafting the collar using the Grid points First make a plan as in the picture below According to the plan we are going to draft a collar which is 6 cm high at the CB A J and which has been curved at the neck 3 cm from point J downwards The collar is 6 cm high also in the CF D E and its point D extends 5 cm to the left from the CF point Let s assume that the measured neck circumference of the garment is 40 cm Then the half length of the collar is 20 cm Look at the collar in the picture to notice how it is composed of lines and arcs At the top edge of the collar there is a combination of an arc B C D and a line A B In order make the arc and the line merge into one another smoothly point A has to be on a straight line with the starting point of the arc B and the corner point of the arc C At the bottom edge of the collar there is a combination of two arcs J H G and G F E In order to make these two arcs merge into one another smoothly the corner point H and the end point G of the first arc have to be on a straight line with the corner point of the other arc F If you need to know more about arcs please refer to Web Tutorial 1 The anatomy of an arc C E A 6 cm 5 cm 20 cm 1 2 of the garment neck circumference 121 Web Page Tutorials 122 Method 1 Drafting the collar in a frame Draw a rectang
70. arker area and the pieces in it By printing to a file you can create a marker that you can put on a diskette send over a modem and print over and over from any computer even one without PatternMaker installed In this tutorial you will make a marker for a children s T shirt A pattern has already been created for you it is in the file TUT12 PAT Although it is very simple this is a complete pattern ready to grade and mark Select File Open Select file TUT12 PAT This file contains five pieces a front a back two sleeves and a collar Note that the notch marks have already been grouped with the sleeves and armscyes and that the grading arrows have already been added setting the grading rule This tutorial assumes that you won t cut pieces on the fold Since the collar belongs to a different material group ribbing it will not be in the marker Select Misc Settings Layer Turn layer Ribbing off SETTING THE CUT RATIO Don t exit the Layer command yet because you also need to set the cut ratio This marker will contain enough pieces to make 1 size Small 3 size Medium 2 size Large These numbers are the cut ratios listed in the Layer display Put the mouse on the number in the row for size Medium under the word Ratio and click the left button The 1 changes to a 2 Click again to make it a 3 If you make a mistake you can use the right button to reduce the cut ratio Click left b
71. arks will be selected and graded even though they are hidden because they are grouped together with the main pieces this was also done for you beforehand Grade the pattern now grading all of the objects in view and making two larger sizes Select Grade Grade Select ALL icon lt ESC gt Sizes 2 TAB Size interval 1 ENTER Now you have four nests 64 Tutorial 12 Markers MULTIPLY BY CUT RATIO Select Marker Cut Ratio Select All icon lt ESC gt The CUT RATIO command makes copies of all the selected objects The number of copies for each layer is equal to the cut ratio you set earlier PatternMaker now asks you Pre place pieces PatternMaker is offering to spread out the pieces so that they will be easier to see and arrange Answer YES Y PatternMaker makes a total of 24 pieces and lays them out in rows above the marker area Use Zoom All to put everything in view again END Note Notice that all of the pieces you created with GRADE and CUT RATIO are visible in marker mode This is because a copy of a marker piece is also a marker piece Another note If you do things in the order given above you can be sure your marker has the right number of pieces of each size This isn t a problem with a simple marker like this one but in a production environment you may find yourself looking at a marker with over 100 pieces which somebody else has worked on and not know if there are extra miss
72. at the center of the sleeve cuff Draw Line CtrlF3 If needed make the vertices visible with F5 After having drawn the line cut the sleeve with it Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut the sleeve M1 accept M2 and the object to cut with line M1 accept M2 N 1 ln Erase all cutting lines 2 Rotate the upper piece of the center front piece and the upper piece of the back piece until the shoulder darts are closed Edit Rotate CtrIF3 Choose the command select the object to be rotated M1 accept M2 Then point the vertex to rotate about the dart apex M1 and the base point of the rotation at front the left side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder and at back the right side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder M1 Finally point the destination point of the rotation at front the right side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder and at back the left side vertex of the shoulder dart at the shoulder M1 3 a Measure the distance between vertices E and F the armscye curve at front Use the dimension tool Draw Dimension CtrlF3 Choose the command select one end of the distance to be measured E M1 and then the other end of the distance to be measured F M1 Move the mouse and click the place where you want the distance to be displayed In the picture the distance 1s 8 1 cm On the back piece there is a similar vertex with similar distance from the back armpit ve
73. atterns with the program it is vital that you understand the meaning of absolute and relative coordinates Selecting objects or points There are many ways of selecting the objects and the points Selecting them one by one Click on the objects points MI M1 MI until you have selected all the objects points which you want to accept the selection with M2 Selecting with a selection window Select one M1 and click then selection window icon or type from keyboard W Choose the size and 9 Web Page Tutorials 92 the location of the selection window clicking on diagonal opposite corners of the desired selection window click at one corner M1 move the mouse and click at the diagonal corner Don t click and drag just click at the two corners of the desired selection window Selecting everything at once Select one M1 and then click the selection all icon or type from keyboard A Accept the selection with M2 If you want to select nearly all first select all objects and then deselected the items which you don t want to select with M1 Accepting the selection After having selected all you want to select accept the selection with M2 or pressing lt Esc gt Deselecting A selection of an object point can be annulled by clicking on it again with M1 Note that there are risks when using lt Esc gt key to annul the selection For some commands you can cancel the command with lt Esc gt but for others you can
74. bject s layer This color coding makes it easy to see which objects belong together White is the default color for layer 0 green is the default color for layer 1 and so on This is why the other slopers are different colors If an object is any color other than Uselayercolor it will be drawn in that color regardless of what layer it is on Look at the status bar at the top of the screen On the left is a box saying USELAYERCOLOR This box tells you what color you are currently drawing in In the middle of the status bar is a box saying LayerO This box tells you what layer you are currently drawing on The number of the layer is 0 and the name of the layer is LayerO You can change the name of a layer with the Layer command but its number always stays the same This box is also an icon Put the mouse cursor on the words LayerO and click the left button to select the LAYER command Select Layer box from status bar A box appears titled Set Edit Layers CURRENT NAME COLOR ON Below is a table listing the information for all the layers that are availble in PatternMaker Each part of this field 1s also an icon Tutorial 9 Layers CHANGING THE CURRENT LAYER The line for the current layer is marked with an asterisk under the word CURRENT The current layer is layer 0 To change the current layer to layer 2 place the mouse cursor in the area to the left of the 2 and under the word CURRENT Click the left button
75. bric for the facing When preparing to sew the sleeve to the armscye set the sleeve and the facing one on top of the other and ease stitch the facing to the sleeve cap Sew one Stitch line through both fabrics using the longest possible machine stitches Pull on easestitching in sleeve cap to adjust cap ease but not to the extent that there will be wrinkles at cap seams when done Sew the sleeve to the armscye along the easestitching The facing is fastened simultaneously Iron or steam the seam allowances of the sleeve cap towards the sleeve Web Page Tutorials Exercise 16 Drafting a hood 1 Measure the neck circumference of the garment not your Eres Panne caer neck circumference Divide it by 2 2 Draw a rectangle with size 1 2 of the garment neck circumference x 35 40 cm points A B C D 3 Draw a circle at the upper right corner of the rectangle with radius 8 cm 4 Add points as follows 35 Aflerr Midway between points A and D point E 8 cm from point B to the left point F 6 cm from point B downwards point G midway between points C D point H use snap to mid point CtrlF2 midway between points C H point J midway between points D K point L midway between points H L point K D 174 14 14 1 2 garment neck 5 Move point A 2 cm to the left Move points D and L 3 cm circumference down move point K 1 5 cm down 6 Change points B E H and L to round points Point Round Vertex
76. button while you are in the middle of a command aborts the command Try this while moving some objects They will jump back to their original positions and you will be prompted to select a new command Since many commands have intermediate steps sometimes you ll need to press ESC more than once This depends on the command you are using We will cover the CUT and JOIN commands in Tutorial 5 RESTORING A DRAWING FROM DISK If you have experimented with all of the commands listed above your drawing is probably a cluttered mess now Any time you do some work then decide you want to have your original drawing instead you can reload your drawing from the file it is saved in Select the OPEN command from the File menu Select File Open A dialog box will appear saying Tutorial 4 The Edit Functions Save file C Program Files PatternMaker Software PatternMaker BACKSLOPER PAT YES NO CANCEL You don t want to save the changes you just made so select the No button with the mouse Select NO button The computer now deletes your drawing from memory but the original version is still in the file The box with the file names now appears just as it did at the beginning of this tutorial Select the same file you selected before Select file BACKSLOPER PAT You will see the same drawing you saw the first time you opened the file You should use the SAVE command periodically while you are working to save your latest cha
77. ce of a symbol in a drawing is the same but if you load several different copies of a group into your drawing you can change or edit some copies without changing the others Use groups in your libraries if you want to load a group of objects and then modify them for instance to put a standard sleeve into all your patterns If you aren t clear how the difference affects your work use whichever you like Start PatternMaker and draw a rectangle This will be a simple representation of a shirt front on which you will place some buttonhole symbols Select Rect command 2 2 lt ENTER gt 5 12 lt ENTER gt SELECTING A SYMBOL LIBRARY From the Symbols menu choose the Library command Select Symbols liBrary A file selection box will appear This box looks exactly like the selection box for drawing files This is because every drawing file can be used as a symbol library and vice versa Select the file LIBRARY PAT Select file LIBRARY PAT On the prompt line you will see the response Reading file C PATTERN LIBRARY PAT 11 symbols scanned This verifies that the file is OK and counts the number of symbols it contains Tutorial 10 Symbols and Library Files LOADING A SYMBOL Now that you have selected a library file you can load one or more symbols from it Select the LOAD SYMBOL command from the Load from Library submenu Select Symbols Load From Library Symbol A list of symbol names appears Select the symbol called
78. ck piece at the neck Tailored collar in the PatternMaker macros is 7 cm wide The raise at the neck is 3 cm Collar stand and the visible part of the collar is 4 cm 3 9 raise at neck The aim of this exercise is to broaden the collar with 3 cm When this has been done the visible part of the collar will be 7 cm 127 Web Page Tutorials 128 Collar drawn with the macra jcm collar stand raise at neck Callar width visible part em visible part of callar added to cm CITI Collar edge on top of back bodice Collar edge on top of back bodice 17 9 cm 12 6 cm Difference 5 3 cm As seen in the picture the new length of the outer edge of the collar at back is 17 9 cm which is 5 3 cm longer than the outer edge of the original collar So you have to lengthen the outer edge of the collar with 5 3 cm To draw the above picture 1 draw the collar stand from the neck shoulder point 3 cm upwards 2 draw the original height of the visible part of the collar from top edge of the collar stand to the shoulder line use guide circle 3 draw the new height of the visible part of the collar from top edge of the collar stand to the shoulder line 4 draw arcs starting from the intersection of the visible part of the collar and the shoulder line to the center back seam 5 Measure the lengths of the arcs i e collar back edges in both situation Point Set Meas dist Draw a cutting line across the collar
79. cking on any object once with M1 Copying objects Copying the objects is done with the command Edit Copy or using the copy icon Exercise 8 Continue from the result of the previous exercise First copy the back piece l 7 Choose the command Edit Copy Select the back piece for copying M1 remember that it 1s now a group so that you can select both the back piece and its waist dart at the same time Accept the selection M2 Choose the base point of the copy inside the selected piece MI Move the mouse and point the destination point of the copy on the location where you want to put the new piece MI Exercise 9 Continue the exercise and copy the center front piece 30 cm to the left from the original center front piece l The copy command will now repeat so you don t need to choose it again 977 Web Page Tutorials 98 ON ig eu qu Select center front piece M1 Accept the selection M2 Type from keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt as the base point of the copy Type from keyboard 30 0 lt Enter gt as the destination point of the copy Zoom the drawing so that you can see the whole picture by pressing the lt End gt key on the keyboard Rotating objects and points Rotating objects is done with the command Edit Rotate and rotating points with the command Point Rotate vertex After choosing the command select the object s or point s which you want to rotate M1 Accept the selection with M2 Then give the poin
80. command iiti Qoi indie Dui vec Eit Qu vits 34 angles used in polar coordinates seeeeseeeesssss 15 ARRANGE MARKER command ssss 65 Att amen OA alidb KCL juicio etr e ic adeo Du ERU dubiis 65 B DASE DOM NU M 19 IDULLOMMO LES cscs ceti eta a 51 C canceling a command sasise vec tud dd eds 22 CHANGE OBJECT command 22593 changing drawing color seeeeeeeeneee 58 Chains Ine SC Ie eee oe hr tsm oce a egt Bea 27 changing the current layer ccccccccececececeeeeeesseeeeeeees 47 changing the shape of a curve cccccceccccceceeeeeeeseeeeeees 3l CIRCLE COMM ANG use tioetee da doeet en uoo eu ees 35 CLOSE OBJECT command ec ccecessesseseneeeacceeeees 22 COLOR COBDImad ueteri a ev ug Nen Fees 35 commands ADD ARROW ooren A 40 PDI VAG iE 41 ADD VERTEX 3 tiere xe te o veos tue dE Re eps 33 AB LG dE 34 ALIGN Y iusso ded E EM Ldp ABE Reds 34 ARRANGE MARKER eese 65 canceling nonc dente ag ber aea deu dug lcu kN a e ad 22 CHANGE OBJEC 52 ect tr dert trt 225 97 CIRC DE adis boctee E Siena dU EN NES 35 CEOSE OBJEC T 3 725 tas stuctts ne ttaleds adu etae eoo 22 COLOR M 35 COPY E SRE t dba P Mati e ede ateas 22 CORNER VERTEX 5O ounoeiecce dense eoo eMes enne cor ge ga 33 CREATE SYMBOL command seessss 53 CU Trn 25 60 CUTRATIO coe tete E erdt 62 65 DEFINE PIECE
81. d in a file with the extension BAK for instance BACKSLOPER BAK but if you do it twice the old BAK file will be lost If your drawing already has a name other than NONAME PAT you can save it with the same file name In this case the previous version of the drawing will be replaced This is how you will save changes to this file in the following tutorials You are now done with Tutorial 3 Next you will learn ways to add to and change your drawing 17 18 TUTORIAL 4 THE EDIT FUNCTIONS In Tutorial 3 you drew a sample pattern piece consisting of two objects In this tutorial you will use some of the editing functions to modify your sloper You will sample some of the functions in the Edit menu which work on entire objects The functions in the Points menu are also editing functions but they work on some of the individual points in an object rather than the whole object You will try some of these later Start PatternMaker and open the file BACKSLOPER PAT that you created in Tutorial 3 You should see the sloper object the horizontal waist line you drew and the box around them If you don t press lt END gt to put them in view MOVING OBJECTS Select the Move icon It looks like a hand Click the left mouse button on it The MOVE command is also in the Edit menu Select Move function In the prompt window you will see Select object for help lt esc gt done This message appears whenever you are ru
82. d to do in Tutorial 3 This would give you precise control over the distance your objects moved UNDO A CHANGE Suppose the MOVE command you just did was a mistake You can use the UNDO command to undo the last change you made to the drawing Select the Undo icon now it looks like a letter U Select Undo function The objects you just moved will move back to their original positions Remember that you can t undo more than one command in a row so if you make a mistake select the UNDO command before you do anything else REPEAT A COMMAND If you want to do the MOVE command again you don t need to select the Move icon again Just click the mouse anywhere in the drawing area The MOVE command will be selected again and it will start selecting objects Go ahead and move the same two objects anywhere you like Select and move sloper and line GROUPING OBJECTS Sometimes you have a group of objects and you will want any change made to one of them to apply to all of them In other words when you select one you want to select all of them You can do this by forming a group The GROUP command is found in the Symbol menu Select Symbol Group function Select the same two objects you selected before Select sloper and line lt ESC gt You are then prompted for a name for the group You need to give a group a name if you plan to use the Load From Library function Tutorial 10 to load it into another drawing later Don t give this gr
83. de lines for the left wrap piece 5 Draw wrap pieces with facings along the vertices of the existing wrap pieces and the intersections of the outer vertical line and the horizontal help line Draw Poly Move wrap pieces with facings to a blank place on the screen Erase the help lines and the wrap pieces without facings Edit Erase 6 Add seam allowances to the wrap pieces Draw Seam Allowance Give as the seam width 4 cm for the hems 0 cm for the front edges and 1 cm for all other edges of the pieces Draw center front lines and fold lines for the pieces as in the picture Draw Line CtrlF3 7 Draw a cutting line on the back piece starting from the dart apex CtrIF3 and going vertically CtrlF5 from there to and across the hem line Draw Line 8 Cut the back piece with the cutting line Edit Cut Choose the command select the object to be cut the back piece M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with the line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase and move back pieces apart from each other Edit Move 9 Add seam allowances to the back pieces Draw Seam Allowance Give as the seam width 4 cm for the hems 0 cm for the center back seam and cm for all other edges of the pieces Exercise 8 Making a wider collar visible part ofthe collar In order to make the collar wider you also have to lengthen the pe outer edge of the collar Otherwise it does not have enough space to lie flat on the ba
84. dinNat s ronnan on nanana MEUS NE EEEEEEM NR NNNEEREEEPEE MURS NS E eEEE PARE RA RES ER ERE EER S 15 Save VOHEXIEAVIBS aoi EHIEEEInHBnOEm reins 16 TUTORIAL 4 THE EDIT FUNCTIONS sees re eee nennen nnn nnn nnn nnn 18 INVOWAM OOD NCCES xo eN UN NOU Ue TINI UDPI ELI PEEEDEES ORDER E EEEEEERE SEEN E sued od OSEE ERE GEEESR PRAET E IEEE EGO SERRE GR EDU 18 sclectine ODIGCIS mendi endi nh eH Cr EP E EAE EUER nna ania oo 18 LB OE change ssis M N 20 Repeat command a0 EDGE ODER ERU TRU EE TI DILE DE 20 riis M 20 UngeronDine 0C CIS ocnsiooccrer opus ere nesenas ESEE SUDUR CE CREE oO UDU PEE EESE e ERA REEF ERE ERE PEEL ERES EGRE TEE Ea 21 More editin9 commands isi ERE EI EE Panic nS 21 vjnibuintdsiiiiaviiriici e E 22 Cancel command sse ESET 22 Kestorme a Drawine MOm DISK eere eret eU Huevo ade eu eie eure uten INI EDEN II RI 22 TUTORIAL 5 CUT JOIN AND SNAP POINTS eee ree ree 24 Diaw Ili tr At 24 STAD FO Pe 24 C uttine An ODI CCE aisinas ann aE EEEN 25 SDAP TO GLO aaa nnn A ee 26 Torres IWO OMCs lecctedeieceecer tec tetetedetecccatetstetetadeccdedededadetetecccedadetetetetceccetatecateteteecdedeletatetcccaceceaats 27 Placing a point ON a curve OPtlOMal sccccccccscsssscsscccccccssssssccccccscccsssscssccccsssssssssssscccssesesees 28 TUTORIAL 6 POINT EDIT F
85. ditO WS aie i e E IS im p oi IDE vites dd 12 ug NM p E E E A EE 11 15 laye S aio Pectore Eoi d dc rU EM 48 POMS VeftICes cohesion oneal ees 11 30 36 TOE IR CVS soesicersteccceantee corsst Nghi td sou dto Ru A aeq eS Edd 10 ICONS iat antes seed ded tasto toten i abs ose qd De M cM caer 7 inputs entenng DY LY PIN E iniii EEA EA 13 entere with MOUSE isseire ii i ea 8 insertion point Symbols ssseeeeeeeeeee 53 Installing PatternMaker uides ok Pla evadat oun 3 J JOIN COMAN rici dee RR Ab Rem e e ee it e deeds 24 L labels text addins EO CLA WAN ss cm c pr E LU eb EHE EIS EROoOS de 38 LAYER COMMANG 3c 22 ati Faith dte detta hito Piensa 46 layers changing default colors eeeeeeeeesssssss 47 changing the current layer cccceccccccceeeeesseeeeeeeeeees 47 dese O ud ocio mitotic ituri eer ene er 46 TIATHIEIO onion ocio ost dice te meis o ovS ose tod 47 teseltifie deraulis animest tat Pd Qut du dd dup 48 SMO WAN O C eoi I atri bU is 48 the LAYERS dialog DOX oi titio d noi ooi td 46 LINE command ote bri EE Sa bb eax 16 24 line style Ghana Mo oresar 57 LOAD GROUP command sese 55 LOAD OBJECT command essere 55 LOAD SYMBOL command eeeeeeeeeeneee 51 M marker Modere abgeben teer nt atate tele teet tru dod 63 MARKER REPORT command eeeeeeeesss 68 markers ata P THE
86. e In this kind of a jacket design the pocket is positioned on this cutting line After you have sewn the front waist dart close the cutting line temporarily with zigzag stitches Iron a strip of interfacing on its wrong Web Page Tutorials side When fastening the pocket you will cut the pocket mouth along this line If you are sewing a patch pocket position it so that the cutting line is hidden under the pocket Exercise 15 Drafting facings Red number 1 3 CtrlF3 arc round point 4 and 6 CtriFe 2 0 Black number 2 4 5 ctFa 272 line corner point 1 6 CtrlF 3 1 7 CtrlF3 7T and 11 ctriFe 20 8 14 CtrlF8 272 8 10 CtrlFS 272 1 5 CtriF a 4 B and 10 ctriFe 270 7 9 CtriF 2 2 5 Ei 1 3 CtriF 3 4and 6 ctrFa 2 0 5 CtFS 2 2 Facings are drafted using two Snap modes Snap to End Point CtrlF3 and Snap to Offset CtrlF8 Snap to End Point is used to draw along the existing points of the original pattern piece e g points 1 6 of the CF facing in the picture to create the outside edge s of the facing and Snap to Offset is used to draw the points that form the inside edge s e g points 7 11 of the CF facing in the picture Lets assume that you want to draft facings which are 2 wide Select the command Draw Polygon from the main menu Start by clicking with the left mouse button M1 on the vertices that are shared with the original pattern piece and the facing e g points 1 6 of the CF facing in the picture Use sn
87. e Look at it frequently when you are using PatternMaker It will give you messages or prompts telling you what you are doing and what you need to do next Remember that the prompts scroll this means that the bottom message is the most recent Right now the prompt should be Command You will see this prompt every time you finish a command and PatternMaker is waiting for a new command Anything you type into the computer will also appear in the prompt line RUN A COMMAND Put the cursor on the icon that looks like a rectangle Click the left mouse button You will see a prompt Command RECT Enter a pOint ESC to cancel You are now running the rectangle command Notice that the word RECE appears in green letters at the right end of the status bar This area always tells you what command you are running Now move the cursor into the drawing area and click the left button again Important don t hold the button down PatternMaker does not use the click and drag system that many other computer programs use Select a point with mouse You have just entered a point into your drawing There are other ways to do this which you will learn in future tutorials but clicking the mouse on the drawing area is the most basic way to give PatternMaker data Move the mouse around the drawing area A rectangle will follow it around Click the left button again Select a point with mouse You have just drawn a rectangle You know
88. e SEAM ALLOWANCE command lets you add a seam allowance to a single segment or edge of an object We will use it here to create a yoke type bodice piece Do you remember the CUT command from Tutorial 5 Draw a line more or less horizontal across the sloper object It doesn t matter exactly where it goes but it should cut through at the armhole Make sure it is long enough to cut the sloper cleanly in half Then use the CUT command to cut the sloper in two Select Line function Draw line across sloper object Select Cut function Select sloper object lt ESC gt Select the line you just drew lt ESC gt Select Erase function Select the line you just drew Tutorial 11 Offsets Seam Allowances and Facings lt ESC gt Now move the two pieces of the sloper an inch or two apart Select Move function Move top half of sloper up 1 2 inches We need to add seam allowances to the two pieces so we can sew them back together The SEAM ALLOWANCE function is in the Draw menu Select Draw Seam Allowance Select the bottom edge of the top piece of the sloper the edge created by the cut you just made The SEAM ALLOWANCE function doesn t select objects or points it selects a segment connecting two points Click the mouse on the bottom edge and it will highlight If the wrong segment highlights click on the right one Then press lt ESC gt Select bottom segment of top sloper piece lt ESC gt A seam allowance
89. e center front points of the center front piece 2 cm to the left choose the command Point Move Vertex select all points on the CF line M1 M1 M1 M1 M1 Accept the selection M2 Type from keyboard the base point of the move as 0 0 Enter and the destination of the move as 2 0 Enter 9 Move corresponding points on the CF line of the facing 2 cm to the right The command Point Move Vertex will repeat so you don t need to choose it again Select the CF points of the facing M1 M1 M1 M1 MI and accept the selection M2 choose as the base point of the move the CF hem point of the facing M1 and as the destination point of the move the CF hem point of the CF piece MI 10 Join the CF piece and the facing choose the command Edit Join select the CF piece with M1 accept with M2 select the facing with M1 and accept with M2 Aligning points Exercise 17 Next you will learn to align points horizontally and vertically Do the following exercise according to the picture below 103 Web Page Tutorials In this exercise you straighten the CB seam of a ladies jacket and shorten the jacket to extend to the top of the hip abdomen Align these points horzentalhy Point Align Align all hem points of all pieces werticalhy Paint Align i according to any hip point Align these points vertically PointrAlignY3 according to th point 1 Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro with the default measurement
90. e seam DrawwLinej em point touches the hem point af the center and cutthe frontside front piece Edit Rotate seam with the line Edit C ut Continue from where you left off in the previous exercise 2 Move the front pieces to that they touch at hem Choose the command Edit Move Select the piece to be moved M1 accept M2 Choose the base and destination points marked in the picture below M1 M1 Use snap to end point to be exact lt Ctrl F3 gt 3 Rotate the front shoulder bust dart until closed After choosing the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 choose the center base and destination points of the rotation as marked in the picture below M1 M1 MI 4 Draw a line from the bust point apex across the front side seam After choosing the command Draw Line Use M1 to enter the end points of the line The line must begin exactly at the bust point and therefore you should use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt 5 Cut the front side piece with the line you drew Edit Cut After choosing the command select the side piece M1 and accept M2 Then select the cutting line M1 M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen to see that the cut was made successfully You should see the words Calculating Done 6 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase Choose the command then select the line M1 and accept the selection M2 7 Rotate the bottom part of the side piece so that the shoulder bust dar
91. e second Instructions that you should do but that aren t meant to be typed verbatim into the computer are set aside in square brackets Select point with mouse Messages that you will read on the screen are printed in Courier type a font that looks like a typewriter Message from PatternMaker Sometimes a tutorial will tell you to do something that can be done in more than one way For instance many commands can be selected either from a menu or by selecting an icon If you know a different way to do something you don t have to do it exactly the way the tutorial says When in doubt however follow the directions exactly Note on the Escape key In PatternMaker the right mouse button has the same effect as the Escape key lt ESC gt and it s usually more convenient to use For brevity the tutorials will often tell you to use the Escape key but you can use the right mouse button instead What to do if you get stuck e Make sure you are using the correct button of the mouse If you have a three button mouse PatternMaker will ignore the middle button Preface to Tutorials e Read the prompt line See what question the computer is asking The computer may not understand what you are trying to do or it may be doing a different command than you think it is If you want to do a new command you may need to end the current command Try pressing the lt ESC gt key a couple of times e Holding the mouse down and dragging
92. e vertices of the center back piece 1 cm to the left use command Point Move vertex for each of these two moves Select all the vertices to be moved M1 M1 MI before accepting the selection M2 Show the points if needed by typing F5 Use snap to end point CtrlF3 if it helps Type the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 Enter Type as the destination point of the move from keyboard 1 0 Enter front and 1 0 Enter back 117 Web Page Tutorials 118 bj 21 Base of rotation 1 per Plas 2 7 fe a End af ae rotation 2h Point to rotate about 2 8 Destination of move 2 8 Base of 3c A Haze OT MOVE Base point cm Base point of rotate 3 of rotate R Round vertex Points to rotate about a a m 5a X gon 3a The jacket has round points at the back shoulder dart apex Before going on it 1s best to change these points to corner points Point Corner vertex 2 a Move the two front pieces and the two back pieces together so that they touch at the hem Edit Move choose the command select the front side piece M1 and accept the selection M2 Choose as the base point of the move the leftmost hem point of the front side piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the rightmost hem point of the center front piece shown in the picture Use snap to end point CtrlF3 to be exact Move the back pieces the same way so that they touch each other at hem Draw a cutti
93. e was able when writing the macros to test all the options of the macros by sewing the garments for herself You can visit her web site at http home icon fi leena english htm You will find important information about the macros and also sewing instructions and such A macro is a small computer program A macro is a small computer program which you run with your PatternMaker program After you choose the macro command from the main menu or by clicking on the macro icon the program asks you to choose the garment Then you are asked to give some information choose options and give measurements Usually you also choose one of three ease options minimum normal or maximum Please refer to the sewing instructions for the macros to learn about the ease amount of each ease category After you have answered all the questions the program runs the macro and you get all the pattern pieces you need for a fashion garment and everything has been drafted according to the given measurements 73 Web Page Tutorials 74 Tailored garments according to given measurements With the macros you draft patterns for tailored garments according to given measurements If the measurements have been taken correctly you usually get faultless patterns for the garment you have chosen Difficulties may rise with some unusual body shapes like strongly asymmetrical bodies as they would with any pattern drafting method To make sure that you have taken the measurem
94. e white box in the status bar with M1 you get a selection box with which you can choose another drawing color Changing the drawing color does not affect the objects that already have been drawn It only affects the objects which are drawn after the change If you want to change the color of the objects that you already have drawn use the command Edit Change Pattern style The second area in the status bar is the pattern style of the objects Click this with M1 to open a box where you can select another pattern or fill style Just like the change of the drawing color this change only affects the items which are drawn after the change Line type The third area in the status bar is for the line type You can choose from many line types Change this the same way you change drawing color or fill style Layer To the right of the line type there 1s a box for the layers It tells the name of the current layer If you have not changed it you can read Layer 0 here By clicking this box with M1 you can change things concerning the layers We will return to layers later on in this tutorial Mouse coordinates and units The next area in the status bar tells the location of the mouse cursor on the screen in X Y coordinates and the measuring units cm inch The units can be changed using the command Misc Units Commands In the rightmost area of the status bar you see the latest command you have chosen or used If the command is in green the
95. eam meets the armhole When drafting a sleeve we would put a similar mark on the sleeve cap 3 inches from the corresponding corner These distances need to be measured along the curve not in a straight line Snap to Measured Distance measures along an object following curves and corners instead of using the straight line distance Select Settings Snap Mode Select MEASURED DISTANCFE Click the OK button Now a dialog box appears asking for Snap Distance Enter 3 ENTER Now select the Dot command Select Draw Dot Notice that the prompt to enter a point is different now Select reference point Move the mouse around the sloper object Notice that a snap point appears when the mouse is close to any vertex of the object This is not the point you will enter it is the start point that the three inch distance will be measured from Remember In Snap to Measured Distance mode you click the mouse twice to enter one point Tutorial 5 CUT JOIN and Snap Points The point we want to measure from 1s the vertex where the arm hole meets the side seam Select vertex at arm hole side seam Now you see the usual prompt Enter a pornty lt ESC gt Bo cancel When you move the mouse there will be two snap points one along the arm hole and another along the side seam from the reference point In Snap to Measured Distance mode the snap points always lie on the same object that the reference point is
96. ece with a shoulder dart Draw the side panel in one piece You can see the shape of the side panel in picture 3 2 3 4 Destination Move points gt 3 The shapes of the pieces are not quite satisfactory The back piece does not curve enough at the waist compared with the front piece The side panel is somewhat distorted Therefore move the waist vertices of the pieces as shown in the picture the waist vertices of the front side and the back pieces simultaneously to the right and the waist vertices of the side panel simultaneously to the left Point Move vertex You can do this by eye First use the snap to end point CtrIF3 to select the vertices to be moved and then snap to ortho CtrIF5 to move the vertices horizontally When moving the points in this way in pairs the move of the points does not change the waist circumference of the garment 4 Draw a cutting line on the front side piece at the top hip abdomen level Draw Line CtrlF3 CtrlF5 The line must extend over both edges of the piece Cut the side piece with the line Edit Cut Choose the command first choose the object to be cut the side panel M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with the cutting line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase Rotate the topmost piece of the front side pieces so that the shoulder dart is closed Edit Rotate CtrIF3 The center base and destination points have been marked in the pictur
97. ect inches no fractions click OK button Notice how the grid adjusted so that the dots are now one inch apart instead of one centimeter apart You will have noticed that there are several other measurement format options in the list We won t discuss all of these now but you can experiment with them later if you wish The differences are explained in detail in the User s Manual Now you know how to zoom in on a detail or zoom out to see your whole pattern You can use the grid to see how big something is and you can see the vertices if you need to change some of them You are now done with this tutorial You can Exit the program use OPEN to open a different drawing file or use the NEW command to prepare for the next tutorial TUTORIAL 3 ENTERING INPUTS In Tutorial 1 you input the corners of a rectangle by clicking the mouse on the screen This is the easiest way to give PatternMaker inputs In this tutorial we will see how to use typed inputs to enter your points more precisely We will draw a sloper a basic size 12 back body block Note this tutorial is to teach you how to enter inputs to PatternMaker we won t be learning standard pattern drafting techniques The numbers you will be given were precalculated so don t be concerned if they seem mysterious First we will draw a rectangle to form a frame for our drawing Start PatternMaker and select the RECT rectangle command Select RECT icon ABSOLUTE COORDIN
98. ectangular area on the screen appears when you start PatternMaker At the very top of the new window is a title bar with the words PatternMaker Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started On the far right end of this title bar are three small squares The title bar and squares or buttons are also standard for all Windows programs The functions of these buttons from left to right are as follows minimize window maximize window exit the program EXPAND THE PATTERNMAKER WINDOW TO FULL SIZE The program should have opened with the PatternMaker window filling the entire screen If it did not move the mouse to put the cursor on the center button on the title bar the one with a small square Click the left mouse button Click Maximize button The PatternMaker window expands to fill the entire screen Windows gives all programs the ability to run in either a partial or full screen but you will always want to use the full screen for PatternMaker Remember to do this every time you start PatternMaker When the word Command appears at the bottom of the screen PatternMaker is ready to go Move the mouse around on the table The cursor a little arrow will move around on the screen WHAT YOU WILL SEE Most of the screen will be black This is the drawing area It won t always show the whole drawing because with PatternMaker you can zoom in and out and pan like a movie camera On the left side of the screen are the icons Th
99. ents correctly it is strongly recommended that you sew a test garment muslin with the patterns for the basic bodice sloper It should fit very tightly on you like a second skin If the test garment is all right you can be sure that all PatternMaker macro garments fit well when the tested measurements are used Ladies basic macros The Ladies basic macros are included in the program With these macros you can draft patterns for an entire wardrobe to given measurements You do not need to know anything about pattern drafting to do this The basic macros contain simple basic garments which are good for most figure types The names of Ladies basic macros are as follows Fitted blouse Lblouse mac Basic bodice sloper Lbodice mac Web Page Tutorials Dress Ldress mac Jacket Ljacket mac Pants Lpants mac 75 Web Page Tutorials 76 Pullover Lpullov mac Shirt Lshirt mac Skirt Lskirt mac Web Page Tutorials Collars oS ge This is how to run a macro Try the macros first with the default measurements given Scandinavian size 42 to get familiar with the kinds of garments you can sew with the PatternMaker macros Ul Choose the command File Macro from the main menu You can do this in three ways either you simultaneously press the Alt key and the underlined letter of the command lt Alt gt F then M or you pull down the File menu and then choose the command by clicking
100. erns Decrease the ease by moving points Point Move vertex Choose all the vertices that are to be moved in the same direction at one time Ml M1 M1 accept M2 Give as the base point of the move 0 0 from keyboard and as the destination point of the move 2 0 moving to the right or 2 0 moving to the left Enter Move the back piece and its waist dart to touch the front piece at the armpit vertex Edit Move Use snap to end point CtrlF3 to be exact Draw a circle with 8 cm radius and center point at the bust apex and a circle with 2 cm radius and center point at the joint armpit vertex of the front and the back pieces Draw Circle CtrlF3 Choose the center Web Page Tutorials point of the circles and type the radius from keyboard 8 or 2 lt Enter gt 2 Draw the corset patterns according to the picture along the existing vertices Draw Poly CtrlF3 Round points corner points of an arc have been marked with R in the picture Draw the shoulder straps Draw Line or Draw Poly Erase the guide circles Exercise 14 A jacket with a side panel 1 Run the jacket macro File Macro Ljacket mac Move the pieces so that they touch each other at hem Edit Move CtrlF3 a Draw vertical lines starting at the vertices on the armscye lines as in the picture and ending outside down from hem Draw Line Use snap to end point CtrlF3 to grab the armscye vertices and then snap to ortho CtrlF5 to draw ver
101. es e g 2 cm Use command Point Move vertex Select all the vertices of the collar to be moved simultaneously M1 M1 M1 accept the selection M2 click anywhere on the screen with M1 for the base point of the move move the mouse and when you are satisfied with the new width of the collar click again with M1 Do the same with the lapel Note when you broaden the collar you have to lengthen its outer edge otherwise it does not lie flat on the back How to do this is explained in Exercise 8 4 Draw cutting lines for the sleeve Draw Line Be sure to position the ends of the lines outside the sleeve Cut the sleeve with the cutting line Edit Cut 5 To alter the sleeve to match the altered armscyes rotate the sleeve pieces which you cut by the amount that you measured in 3b x and y Use command Edit Rotate Select the leftmost piece of the sleeve M1 accept with M2 and rotate it counter clockwise x cm Select the point to be rotated about shown in the picture and the base point of the rotation shown in the picture and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard x and type lt Enter gt Rotate the rightmost piece of the sleeve the same way Note that the distance to be rotated is now a negative number y as the rotation is to be done clockwise 6 Finally draw the new shape of the sleeve along the existing points Draw Poly CtrlF3 If you need to check how the sleeve cap is made of arcs and lines refer to exercise
102. ese look like little pictures Each one represents a command If you put the cursor on an icon and click the left mouse button the command will run If you move the cursor over an icon but don t click the mouse you ll see a pop up hint that tells you the name of the command the icon represents If you click the right button PatternMaker will show you a help file that tells you about the command At the top of the screen is a white bar with words on it This is the menu bar Each word represents a menu a list of commands To see a menu put the cursor on one of the words and click the left mouse button To hide the menu again click the left button again somewhere away from the menu Below the menu bar is a black bar with words Draw Mode Layer0 some colored boxes and some numbers Draw Mode won t be here if you have PatternMaker Home or Expert version This is the status bar The words and colored areas work just like icons but you can ignore them for now The numbers indicate the position of the mouse They are the x and y coordinates of the cursor position Notice that they change as you move the mouse Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started You can do your work in PatternMaker in either inches or centimeters The mouse coordinates will appear in whichever units you have selected In Tutorial 2 we ll talk about how to change the units At the bottom of the screen is a blue bar with white printing in it This is the prompt lin
103. ex 5 Select the top point of the left side of the rectangle M1 Accept the selection M2 Choose the center point of the rotation on the bottom point of the left side of the rectangle M1 use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact Choose with mouse the base point of the rotation on the top point of the left edge of the rectangle and Type from keyboard 5 lt Enter gt Rotate the right side of the rectangle 3 cm to the right clockwise Select the top point of the right side of the rectangle M1 Accept the selection M2 Choose the center point of the rotation on the bottom point of the right side of the rectangle M1 use snap to end point lt Ctrl F3 gt to be exact Choose the base point of the rotation on the top point of the right edge of the rectangle and Type from keyboard 3 lt Enter gt Memorize this rule for rotating objects and points Click the mouse as follows MI selection of the objects points to be rotated M2 accepting the selection M1 center point MI base point M1 destination point i e M1 M2 M1 MI MI or M1 M2 M1 M1 distance Enter or M1 M2 M1 angle lt Enter gt EXERCISE 12 In this exercise you will rotate an object in a real designing situation closing the bust dart of the front piece and moving it to the hem 99 Web Page Tutorials Rotating objects 1 Select front side piece to be rotated M1 accept the selection hie 4 paint base of rotation
104. f the rectangle M1 M1 Draw a line that cuts across the rectangle use the command Draw line and choose the end points of the line with the mouse M1 and MI Continue the exercise according to the picture cut the rectangle with the line and move the pieces apart from each other EXERCISE 15 Now an exercise to join pieces Continue from where you left off in the previous exercise Join the pieces of the rectangle which you moved apart First move the pieces so that they are again side by side Choose the command Edit Move Select the right hand piece M1 and accept the selection M2 Activate snap to end point Ctrl F3 Choose as the base point of the move the bottom left corner of the right hand piece which you just selected for the move M1 and choose as the destination point of the move the bottom right corner of the other piece M1 Then join the pieces Choose the command Edit Join Select one of the pieces M1 and accept the selection M2 Choose the other piece M1 and accept the selection M2 the pieces are joined Hint Look at the blue command bar at the bottom of the screen You should see the words calculating done Sometimes it may happen that the program cannot join pieces that just barely meet at the edges In such a situation delete one or more segments that overlap either from one of the pieces or both Point Delete Segment Select the segment you want to delete M1 accept M2 Then run the Join comm
105. for the lapel M1 and at the top edge of the turning line for the lapel M1 Open the drop down menu for the polygon with M2 and choose from it Tangent Line a line which continues in the same direction as the previous segment of the polygon M1 Finally place the last point of the cutting line outside the collar M1 Pan the view using the arrow keys in keyboard if you need to Cut the collar and the CF piece with the line you just drew Use the command Edit Cut Select the collar M1 and accept it M2 Select the cutting line M1 accept M2 It is easiest to select a line near its end point Select the CF piece M1 accept M2 Select the cutting line M1 accept M2 Look at the blue command line at the bottom of the screen to see that the cut really has taken place you should see Calculating done Remove the cutting line Use the command Edit Erase Select the line M1 and accept the selection M2 Mirror the small pieces of the collar and the lapel you just cut on top of the front piece Use the command Edit Mirror Select the collar M1 and the lapel piece Ml Accept the selection M2 Point the bottom end of the line across which the mirroring is to be done bottom end of the turning line of the lapel M1 look at the picture Point the top end of the mirroring line the point where the cutting line crossed the collar M1 look at the picture Remove the original cut pieces of the collar and the lapel Edit Erase
106. g goes 1 inch from the neckline on the shoulder line Therefore the offsets are 1 and 0 Use lt CTRL gt lt F8 gt to select Snap to Offset mode and enter these values It doesn t matter which order you enter them lt CTRL gt lt F8 gt 1 TAB 0 ENTER Move the mouse around You will see the yellow snap cursor light up occasionally When it does it s at a point that is displaced from a vertex by 1 inch measured from the line connecting the point with the next point and 0 inches measured from the other line going into the vertex Each vertex can generate up to four snap points so you have to use your judgement to find the right one The point you want lies on the shoulder line because its offset is O inches and is one inch from the vertex where the shoulder line meets the neckline Use the grid F4 to see how much is one inch Select snap point on shoulder line This point is the start of an arc that parallels the neckline one inch away from it Use the Point Type Options box to select the Arc option lt ESC gt Select Arc X Tutorial 11 Offsets Seam Allowances and Facings The next point the corner point needs to be offset from the corner point of the neckline curve With one of your offset values being 0 the snap points would lie on the imaginary lines connecting the corner point with the ends of the arc This isn t what you want Change the offset distances to 1 inch and 1 inch lt CTRL g
107. grid point 3 11 You should now have five buttonholes along the left edge of your rectangle If they are too small to see use F3 to zoom in on them Then use END to view the whole drawing again F3 F3 END Display the vertices F5 Note that each insertion has only one vertex The X s for these are slightly larger than the X s for ordinary objects They are located at the insertion points CREATING OR REDEFINING A SYMBOL Expert or Marker Versions only You can create your own symbols from objects already in your drawing You can redefine an existing symbol by creating a new symbol with the same name The following procedure will redefine BTNHOLE as a small square and the words Buttonhole goes here In a real pattern layout you might use this feature to change the style or size of a buttonhole First zoom in on the origin point 0 0 just below and left of the rectangle so you can see what you are doing Zoom until 8 10 grid dots cover the width of the screen lt Leftarrow gt lt Downarrow gt lt F3 gt lt F3 gt Draw a 1 2 inch square centered on the point 0 0 Draw a text label too Select Rect function Select point 25 25 Select point 25 25 Tutorial 10 Symbols and Library Files Select Text function Select point 0 5 0 Buttonhole goes here lt TAB gt 0 5 lt ENTER gt Now you are going to use these two objects to define a symbol From the Symbols me
108. he back waist dart e Add the sleeve grading arrows to the e Armpit vertices and to e the shoulder vertex of the sleeve cap Add a grading tack to the left cuff point Add grading arrows to both ends of the sleeve center line 148 Web Page Tutorials Please note that you have to add grading tacks to the vertices which are one on top of each other in both sizes Because a grading tack 1s valid to the following grading tack it is enough to add grading tacks to the utmost of these vertices Read more about adding grading arrows and tacks from the PatternMaker user s manual After having added all the grading arrows and tacks run command Grade Grade on layer 0 When choosing the pieces to be graded choose the pieces of the smaller size You can choose all the pieces one by one for simultaneous grading After having chosen all the pieces clicking on them with the left button of the mouse confirm the choice with the right button of the mouse Type as the amount of sizes to be graded e g and leave the increment to This way you would get pattern pieces to Scandinavian sizes 42 44 46 and 48 On layer 1 there will be the patterns for size 42 two times the ones you drafted at the beginning of this exercise running the macro with the default measurements and the graded ones If you have added the grading arrows and tacks correctly the pattern pieces are exactly the same If not you have made a mistake Check the grading arrows and tacks Plea
109. he drawing you will see how to restore your drawing later in this tutorial ROTATE rotates a group of objects RESIZE makes objects larger or smaller It can also change their shapes by resizing differently in the X and Y directions 21 Tutorial 4 The Edit Functions 22 EXPAND makes objects larger or smaller Unlike RESIZE it doesn t change the shape of an object ERASE erases objects from the picture COPY copies one or more objects It s just like MOVE except that you end up with an object at the destination and an identical one in the original position MIRROR makes mirror image copies of objects The line that follows the mouse after you select the object s represents the mirror across which the originals are reflected STILL MORE EDITING COMMANDS Try the following commands too There won t be anything to watch as you move the mouse but they are even simpler than MOVE CHANGE changes the color fill pattern for closed objects only layer we will learn about layers later or line type dotted line etc of the selected objects Try changing the color of some objects for starters CLOSE OBJ converts an open object to a closed object by connecting the two ends of the object with a line Use the POLY command to draw an open object before you can try this The opposite of this command is DELETE SEG found in the Points menu CANCEL A COMMAND Remember that pressing lt ESC gt or clicking the right mouse
110. he lower left corner of the marker area PatternMaker prompts you to keep selecting Pack functions until you click the right button or press lt ESC gt lt ESC gt Note Place your marker pieces in the two step process given above one move to put the piece into the marker area and another to slide it into place Experience shows that this method usually works best Another note Sometimes with lots of pieces in the marker the Arrange and Pack functions go slowly because the computer has a lot of calculations to do Using the MOVE command to place the pieces in approximately the right place may speed things up At this point you would normally place the other 23 pieces in the marker area But don t do it yet because there are some other things we want to show you first 67 Tutorial 12 Markers 68 MARKER REPORT The marker report lists various statistics and information about the marker you are assembling If you are doing a quick sample marker to estimate the cost of a garment the marker report will tell you how much material it requires If you are making a production marker the marker report counts the pieces and tells you how efficient your arrangement is If you need a printout for your records the marker report gives you a quick description of the marker and relevant information Select Marker Marker Settings Marker Settings is the function that lets you make inputs to the marker report A dialog box appears w
111. he vertices F75 will hide or show the grading arrows in your drawing as well as their names There probably aren t any grading arrows in your drawing Don t worry about it for now 11 Tutorial 3 Opening A Drawing And Viewing It I7 Other F keys have functions that don t change the way your drawing looks on the screen You will learn about these later You can also perform most of the same zoom functions by clicking the mouse on the zoom icons that appear when you are running other commands The next tutorial lets you practice this CHANGE YOUR WORKING UNITS When you first start PatternMaker the program is set to work in inches However if you prefer to work in centimeters it s easy to change Click on the box that shows the mouse coordinates you learned where this is in Tutorial 1 click on mouse coordinates A dialog box will open showing a list of measurement units you can choose from Select centimeters and then click the OK button select centimeters click OK button Now as you move the mouse around the position of the cursor is indicated in centimeters rather than inches Turn on the grid if it isn t on already F4 The dots you see are one centimeter apart Use F1 or F2 to zoom in or out if you can t see any dots Since the rest of these tutorials use inches go ahead and change back As you do pay attention to what happens to the grid click on mouse coordinates sel
112. her box with an edit field will appear titled Description of Grading Table Give your table the title Simple grading rule Simple grading rule lt ENTER gt You have created a grading rule that can now be applied to any pattern Normally or course you would create your grading information on a real pattern instead of a rectangle To apply this grading rule to your sloper first open the sloper drawing you have been working on in the other tutorials Select File Open Select file BACKSLOPER PAT Then select the READ TABLE command from the Grading menu Select Grade Read table From the list of grading table files select the one you just created Select file SIMPLE GRD The prompt line will remind you of the description you gave when you saved the grading table and then start asking you where each arrow should go Notice that it uses the names you gave the arrows earlier Grading using Simple grading rule 43 Tutorial 8 Introduction to Grading 44 Select point for Lower Right or lt ESC gt to ignore IMPORTANT Pay attention to the names of the arrows The sloper object is a very different shape than the rectangle was and the arrows may not be listed in the order in which you created them This is why it is important to give your arrows good descriptive names If the arrows are listed in a different order than in the following description be sure to put them in the right places To place an arrow simp
113. if there is not another arc after the first one change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line If you find this difficult you can draft the patterns with all straight lines 2 without changing to arc mode and change the arc corner points afterwards to Round points with Point Round vertex After you have drafted the front and the back pieces of the overall erase all the original pieces Edit Erase Draw grain lines on the pieces Draw Line GtrlF5 Draw a collar for the overall if you want one You can use the collars macro Before drafting the collar make the neck opening of the overall 1 cm bigger in all directions Point Move vertex This exercise is based on the patterns of the basic sloper and it does not have enough ease at neck for a real garment pattern After making the neck opening bigger measure its length at front and at back Point Set Meas dist and multiply the result by 2 to get the whole neck circumference You will use this measurement in the collars macro In a real designing situation you would not have removed the sleeves at the beginning Please notice that if you want the overall to have sleeves you have to make the armscyes bigger too You have to lower the armscye of the bodice and broaden the sleeve at the armpit by the same amount This makes the sleeve larger at the armscye Alternatively you can use another macro for the top of the overall e g the blouse macro or the jacket macro These macros
114. ime to close this polygon object Open the menu for the polygon tool by clicking with the right mouse button M2 Close the polygon by choosing Done closed from the menu Note that the facings in the drawings above are formed of arcs and lines In the facing you drew in the preceding steps however there are only lines not arcs You must now change some of the corners to arcs In the pictures the arcs have been drawn with red There are two arcs in the CF facing 1 2 3 and 9 10 11 In the front armscye facing there are two arcs one after another 1 2 3 and 3 4 5 The numbers written in red indicate which points should be round points Use the Round Vertex command on the Point menu to change the appropriate points from corner points to round points Alternate method Rather than going back and converting points after they are drawn you can also create arcs and round points as you draw the polygon After you click on the point preceding the round point change the polygon tool to arc mode by clicking with M2 Choose Arc x from the menu and click on the screen where the round point is to be Then change the polygon tool back to the line mode after clicking on the arc point open the menu with M2 and choose Line Draft other facings correspondingly HINT Why do you want to use a facing for the sleeve cap In jackets and coats you get nicely formed sleeve heads if you use this kind of a facing at the sleeve cap Use fleece or thick soft wool fa
115. ing or modified pieces Use the MARKER REPORT function below for a quick check Here s how to clean up a marker if you do have a problem Erase all the pieces except the original set one copy of each piece in the base size Make sure the grading arrows and cut ratios are the way you want them Then use the Grade and Cut Ratio commands again Now you know exactly what you have ARRANGING A MARKER Now comes the part you ve been waiting for actually putting the marker together PatternMaker does not arrange the pieces automatically in the marker This is because you can do the job much better than the computer can Select the ARRANGE function from the Marker menu Since the view is in marker mode you can also use the Arrange icon It looks like three heavy arrows joined together Select Marker Arrange Marker 65 Tutorial 12 Markers 66 The arrange function is much like MOVE you pick a piece then give PatternMaker a base point and end point You will soon see what the differences are Select a piece and move it into the marker area Make sure it is completely inside the rectangular marker area not touching the edges of the marker area or any other pieces If it does touch it will bounce back where it came from Select a marker piece with mouse lt ESC gt Select base point Select destination point inside marker area After you select the destination point the ARRANGE command is not done yet After the pro
116. ion and type the distance to be rotated from keyboard 2 the distance is a negative number because the rotation is to be done clockwise lt Enter gt The points are marked in the picture6c CB Bd B a Rotate Dase about 4 z z 7 a Now move the front top piece so that it touches the front pant at waist the CF vertexes lie on top of each other Edit Move CtrIF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved the front top MI accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the CF waist vertex of the top M1 and as the destination of the move the CF waist vertex of the front pant M1 b Add 2 cm vertical ease at the waist Move the front piece up by this amount You do not need to select the command as it already 1s active Select the front top MI accept M2 Type as the base point of the move from the keyboard 0 0 Enter and as the destination point of the move 0 2 Enter R Round point 134 Web Page Tutorials 8 Finally draw the overall following the existing points Draw Poly CtrlF3 Show vertices by typing F5 Do not go through the waist vertices Go directly from the hip point to the armpit point back and from the hip point to the bust dart point front Please notice that there are arcs and lines in the patterns When you arrive at a point where an arc begins open the polygon menu with M2 and choose from the options Arc x After having given the points for the arc start corner end and
117. ion ingo 2 a Start designing the front pieces Draw a cutting line on the front side piece as in the picture Draw Line starting from the bust apex CtrlF3 and ending outside the side seam Cut the front side piece with the line Edit Cut Choose the command select the piece to be cut the front side piece M1 accept M2 and then the piece to cut with cutting line M1 accept M2 Erase the cutting line Edit Erase b Rotate the top part of the front side piece to close the bust shoulder dart and to open it to the side seam Edit Rotate Choose the command select the piece to be rotated top piece of the front side piece MI accept M2 Select the point to rotate about it is marked in the picture bust apex M1 then select the base point of the rotation also marked in the picture M1 and finally the destination point of the rotation M1 c Join the front pieces together into one piece Edit Join Choose the command select the CF piece MI accept M2 then select the top side piece MI accept M2 Finally select the piece you joined M1 accept M2 and the remaining bottom part of the side piece M1 accept M2 Add ease to the front piece by moving the vertices as in the picture i e 2 cm to the right Choose command Point Move vertex Select the points to be moved with a selection window it is shown in the picture The selection window is activated by the selection window icon or typing W from the keyboard after yo
118. is moved when you move the mouse 4 When you want to make the move click with M1 at the end point of the move We shall practice the move command more systematically later in this tutorial Giving a location for a point When an object or point is moved or copied the program asks for the base point and the destination point of this action These can be specified in two ways e either by clicking with M1 on the screen or e typing the X and Y coordinates of the point from keyboard Separate X and Y values with a comma Start by typing the horizontal value 2 X value of the point then type a comma and then type the vertical value of the point ZY value If the X value is negative it means to the left of the origin and if it is positive it means to the right If the Y value is negative it means down and if it is positive it means up i Y coordinate i You can give the coordinates in four ways of which we will discuss two here Absolute address e e g coordinate 1 2 means 1 cm to the right from the origin 0 0 and 2 cm to up from origin 0 0 e and coordinate 1 2 means cm to the left from origin and 2 cm down Web Page Tutorials Relative address e 2 2 means 1 cm to the right from given point and 2 cm up from given point Exercise 3 Draw a freeform line after choosing the command Draw Line point the starting base point of the line anywhere on the screen M1 Move the mouse and point the endpoint des
119. it as a polygon lapeliEdit cut and lapel to the collar and lapel and or lapel and lapel ta touches the Draws F alygon right on center front Edit Eraza points to their original position piece Edit Mirrar give a neu to the left Edi Mirrar center front piece shape ta them Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro 2 Remove all other pattern pieces except for the collar and the CF piece of the jacket Edit Erase Do not remove the turning line for the lapel 3 Move collar so that it touches the CF piece choose the command Edit Move Select the collar MI accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the point of the collar which is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 and as the destination point of the move the point of the CF piece marked with an arrow in the picture M1 Use snap to end point to be exact Ctrl F3 10 11 12 Web Page Tutorials Draw a cutting line which starts from outside of the CF piece goes along the turning line of the lapel and continues from there as a tangent line across the collar Because this line has more than two points you cannot use the Line drawing tool Use the Draw Polygon tool Choose the first point of the polygon somewhere outside the CF piece look at the picture M1 Choose the following points of the line polygon at the bottom edge of the turning line
120. ith five areas to enter text Style Children s T shirt lt TAB gt Material Self TAB Note Marker for Tutorial 12 ENTER Nove Note To see the marker report use the MARKER REPORT command Select Marker Marker Report In the box that appears you see the information you just typed in Most of the other information is self explanatory The line Pieces placed 1 24 means that of 24 marker pieces in the drawing 1 is in the marker area The yds bundle listing tells you how much fabric is used per garment A bundle is a set of pieces to make one garment There are 6 bundles in this drawing one small 3 medium and 2 large You see some asterisks instead of a number here because the bundles haven t all been placed in the marker yet The Print button in this message box lets you print out the marker report Normally you will print the marker on a large format plotter and the marker report on letter size paper The Setup option in the printing dialog box lets you switch printers When you are done looking at the report Select OK button Use the ARRANGE command to place the other pieces in the marker We leave it up to you to get them all into the marker area and to keep the yield of material used as high as possible Arrange other marker pieces Tutorial 12 Markers PRINTING A MARKER The Print Marker function prints whatever is visible Since you want to print the notch marks as well as the pieces y
121. layers off see Tutorial 9 If any of the four pieces disappear this means you made a mistake while defining marker pieces If so click on the words Marker Mode to return to Draw Mode and correct your mistakes When you are ready continue 63 Tutorial 12 Markers SET MARKER AREA Select Marker Set Marker Area When you select the Set Marker Area function the first thing you see is a dialog box asking Width of Marker For this demo we assume your printer paper is 36 inches wide Type 34 ENTER 36 inch printers usually have a 34 inch wide printing area and leave an inch margin on each side If you choose to make your marker wider than your paper your marker will be printed in more than one piece which you can tape together The marker area is a gray and red outline that represents the roll of material on the cutting table Notice that the marker area always extends off the screen to the right no matter how far you zoom out This is because the marker can be any length depending on how many pieces you put into it Place it anywhere in the drawing The prompt says Select location for marker area Enter any point Now it s time to grade the T shirt Since this isn t a grading tutorial we have already put in the grading information for you see Tutorial 8 for grading Two things to remember when you grade this pattern first the collar piece won t be graded because its layer is hidden Second the notch m
122. lculating done Sometimes it may happen that the program cannot join pieces whose edges just touch In such a situation delete one or more of the overlapping segments from one of the pieces or both Point Delete Segment Select the segment you want to delete M1 accept M2 Note that there should be two segments together one from each object 5 Delete the points of the hem dart which appeared when you joined the pieces Point Delete Web Page Tutorials Vertex Select the points to be deleted one by one M1 M1 M1 accept the selection M2 6 After you have deleted the points if the piece has an open section at the hem close it using the command Edit Close Obj Select the piece to be closed M1 and accept the selection M2 Exercise 20 This exercise teaches you to add ease to patterns Select the points with a selection wind om P aint Mowe werte WM Select the points with a selection window Paint Mawe vertei Wi and move them 2 cm to the leftbase of moving e 0 0 zEnter and destination 2 0 lt Enter gt and move them 2 cm to the right base af moving E OO zEnter and destination 2 0 zEnter The result amp the same as if you had cut the pieces wertically and mowed the pieces Z cm apart from each other How however you have kept the outlines of the pieces unbroken Note PatternMaker macros produce patterns which are ready to sew You don t have to add ease to them
123. le 20 cm wide and 9 cm high Draw Rectangle Choose the command click somewhere on the screen with M1 this will be the left corner of the rectangle E and type the coordinates of the right top corner of the rectangle A from the keyboard 20 9 Enter The sign means that the coordinates of the latter point are given relative to the given location of the first point E Then draw another rectangle starting from the bottom left corner of the first rectangle using snap to end point lt CtrIF3 gt M1 Type as the relative coordinates of its top right corner C 5 9 Enter Draw two additional rectangles of size 5x9 cm The first one starts at the right bottom corner of the second rectangle F and the other at the right bottom corner of rectangle F For the collar tip D draw a rectangle of size 5x6 cm starting from point E and going to the left select the starting point of the rectangle at point D M1 and type the coordinates of the opposite corner of the rectangle D from keyboard 5 6 Enter Now you can draw the collar following the points of the frame Draw Poly CtrlF3 Please note that the points C F and H are corner points of an arc When you come to a corner point draw the point before the corner point in the usual way and then change the polygon tool to the X arc mode M2 Arc x When you have finished the arc remember to change the polygon tool back to the line mode M2 Line If you make a mistake
124. ly use the mouse to select the point it should be attached to If you press lt ESC gt PatternMaker will ignore an arrow and move on to the next one but for this tutorial use all three of the arrows 1n the table Lower Right select lower right corner of sloper object Upper Left select point where neck hole meets center back line Lower Left select lower left corner of sloper object The Upper Left arrow the one that points up should be near the upper left of the sloper object at the bottom left point of the curve that represents the neck hole GRADING A PATTERN First erase the rectangle that surrounds your sloper because the larger sizes you create will be drawn Over it Select Edit Erase Select large rectangle lt ESC gt Now select the GRADE command You will only be grading one object the sloper object Select Grade Grade Select sloper object lt ESC gt A dialog box will appear asking you for several pieces of information Grading info Number of sizes to generate 1 0000 Size interval negative for smaller sizes 1 0000 For the number of sizes enter 3 Leave the size interval at 1 Don t press ENTER yet Tutorial 8 Introduction to Grading The 3 means you will be creating 3 new sloper objects The size interval of means that since the original sloper is a size 12 the new ones will be sizes 13 14 and 15 If you had entered 2 for the size interval the new objects would be sizes
125. matter where the base point for your Move is as long as the destination is 2 inches above it Select any grid point Tutorial 5 CUT JOIN and Snap Points Select grid point 2 inches above previous point Now the bottom piece of the sloper is moved up so it overlaps the top piece by 2 inches We d like to recombine them JOINING TWO OBJECTS Select the JOIN command from the Edit menu Select Edit Join This works very much like the CUT command Select the top part of the sloper then lt ESC gt then select the bottom part of the sloper then lt ESC gt Be careful not to select the waist line Select top sloper object lt ESC gt Select bottom sloper object lt ESC gt You have shortened your sloper by two inches You have done it essentially the same way you would have done with scissors paper and tape but PatternMaker has made the process quicker and more precise Once you get used to the commands and snap modes you will be able to move and rearrange things very quickly You can experiment with the other snap modes They will give you many ways to arrange and align things perfectly Remember that you can change from one snap mode to another in the middle of a function so you could for instance use the MOVE command to take a vertex of an object and put it on a grid point by using both Snap to End Pt and Snap to Grid Here is the list of snap modes which is also on the plastic overlay Snap Off No snap poi
126. measurements the program drafts all pattern pieces for the selected garment on the screen Wait until the hourglass cursor changes back to an arrow If you cannot see the patterns at all or you see only part of them type the lt END gt key on your keyboard Then the screen is zoomed so that you can see the entire pattern 79 Web Page Tutorials 80 Note When you want to try another macro clear the screen by choosing the command File New from the main menu Click the word File in the menu bar at the top of the screen with M1 and then the word New with M1 Usually you will answer No when the program sakes whether you want to save the file or not Adding seam allowances If you want to add seam allowances to the patterns use the command Draw Offset from the Draw menu After choosing the command select all the pieces one by one with M1 and accept the selection with M2 You can define the width of the seam allowance using the command Misc Seam Width Default width for the seam allowance is 0 635 cm i e the width of the presser foot of the sewing machines Using the command Draw Seam Allowance you can add a seam allowance of varying width to different edges of the pattern Please refer to the User s manual to learn more about this Changing the pattern of the facings Maybe you want that the facings can be distinguished from other pattern parts using different pattern style in them Use the command Edit Change Object Af
127. mmand is a quick and easy way to temporarily hide things that you will want to show again soon RESETTING THE LAYERS Select the LAYER command again Select Layer box from status bar Select the button on the right titled Reset When a box with a question appears to confirm your choice answer yes Select the OK button in the Layer box Tutorial 9 Layers Select Reset button Select Yes button Select OK button You have changed the names and colors of all the layers back to their original values and turned them all back on Your drawing should now appear just like it did when you started this tutorial You don t need to save your work for the next tutorial 49 50 TUTORIAL 10 SYMBOLS AND LIBRARY FILES A library is a file containing commonly used drawing items that you can read into other drawing files You can read objects symbols and groups from a library file A symbol is a detail of a drawing such as a buttonhole pleat or drawing label that is repeated in many places By using symbol libraries you can transfer commonly used symbols from drawing to drawing and ensure that every copy of a given symbol is identical In this tutorial you will see how to use one of the symbols that are supplied in PatternMaker s symbol library You will also see how to create your own symbols change an existing symbol and make your own symbol libraries The difference between a symbol and a group is that every instan
128. mo macros onto your hard drive Skip now to the section below called Install PatternMaker 2 IF YOU ARE USING A PURCHASED VERSION Click the button to the right of the words Program Only No Macros Click button labled Install Now This will launch the PatternMaker Setup program Setup installs the PatternMaker program only onto your hard drive We will be installing the macros garment collections in a later step Continue now to the section below called Install PatternMaker INSTALL PATTERNMAKER The first screen you see is a Welcome message Read it then click the Next button Click the Next button The next screen asks where you want PatternMaker to be installed By default PatternMaker expects to find all necessary files in the folder called C Program Files Patternmaker Software PatternMaker If this is okay click the Next button We recommend that you do this If you prefer to install PatternMaker in a different folder or on a different drive click the Browse button and specify the proper folder Click the Next button The next screen is asking about creating a folder on your Start menu The default is to create a folder called PatternMaker Again we recommend that you accept this default and click the Next button Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started Click the Next button The final screen confirms the information you have entered
129. mpts 12 5 of material is used OK Select Pack function appear the percentage may be different use the right mouse button to end the command lt ESC gt A green and gray bar appears on the right side of the piece This bar represents the end of the marker and it is updated whenever you arrange pieces in the marker area Arranging this piece was like a Move command with an extra mouse click at the end Now we will repeat the ARRANGE command and see its other features Repeat the command by clicking the mouse on the piece you just moved Select piece you just moved lt ESC gt Select base point Before you select a destination type the R key R The selected piece rotates 45 degrees to the right L rotates it the other way L The rotate features let you rotate a piece to make it fit better when you are arranging a marker You can also use the rotation icons that appear in the icon area during the Arrange command but the keys are often more convenient Be sure not to rotate a piece in a way that leaves it going against the grain of the material Tutorial 12 Markers To place the piece move the mouse until the piece overlaps the left edge of the marker area and enter the destination point You don t really want a piece going off the end of the marker but PatternMaker will take care of this Move piece partly off left edge of marker area Click left mouse button The piece jumps back in bounds Don
130. n object one a size larger than the other Then draw arrows to connect points on the smaller object with the corresponding points on the larger object Use Snap to End Point lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt to make the arrows exact Save your work for the next tutorial Select File Save In the next tutorial you will learn about Layers and you will find out why the slopers that the GRADE command created are different colors 45 46 TUTORIAL 9 LAYERS Layers are a very useful feature of PatternMaker that let you hide some parts of your drawing when you don t want to see them and show them when you do You will normally put each different size in your pattern on a different layer and turn off the layers for all sizes except the one you are working with Start PatternMaker and open the drawing file you just graded in the last tutorial Select File Open Select BACKSLOPER PAT Every object in PatternMaker has a layer number The first sloper you drew the white one is on layer 0 because this is the default layer when you start PatternMaker The GRADE command puts the new objects it creates on new layers so the colored slopers are on layers 1 2 and 3 respectively Every object in PatternMaker also has a color number The white sloper is drawn in color 0 because this is the default drawing color Color 0 is not white but Uselayercolor This means that the object is drawn in whatever color is the default color for that o
131. ne except that a line is drawn connecting the first and last points This sloper is a closed object Click on the words Done closed Select Done closed to finish the command If you make a mistake and you get a sloper that doesn t look very good it s okay to keep it and use it for the rest of the tutorials If you make a more serious mistake such as accidentally cancelling the POLY command you will probably need to start the tutorial over There are ways to fix a mistake with PatternMaker but you haven t learned them yet LINE Mark the waistline of this sloper Select the Line icon a diagonal line Type in two points Select Line icon 1 7 75 ENTER 10 50 7 75 ENTER The endpoints of this line will fall exactly on the sides of the sloper SAVE YOUR DRAWING Select the SAVE command from the File menu Select File Save The prompt will read 16 Tutorial 3 Entering Inputs SAVE and a dialog box will appear with the names of all the existing drawing files Don t select any of these Instead type BACKSLOPER lt ENTER gt and PatternMaker will save your drawing in a new file called BACKSLOPER PAT You can give a file any name you want You don t need to type the pat extension PatternMaker adds that automatically Don t save a drawing with a name that already exists unless you want your new file to replace the old one with the same name If you do this the previous file will be save
132. ng line from the front shoulder bust apex to and across the front armscye Draw Line and from the back shoulder dart apex to and across the back armscye Be sure to use snap to endpoint to be exact CtrlF3 Cut the front and back side pieces with the lines you drew Use command Edit Cut Select the piece to be cut M1 accept M2 then select the piece to cut with the cutting line M1 accept M2 2 b Rotate the top pieces which you cut so that the shoulder darts are closed Edit Rotate CtrIF3 having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated M1 accept M2 Then select the point to be rotated about the dart apex point and the base and the destination point of the rotation MI MI MI refer to the picture 3 a Draw the front and back pieces of the overcoat along the existing points Draw Poly CtrlF3 Type F5 to see the points If you need to correct the shape of the armscyes do it by moving one or more vertices Point Move vertex 3 b Measure the length added to the front and the back armscyes x and y Use the Dimension tool Web Page Tutorials Draw Dim and snap to end point CtrIF3 Choose the command select the base point and the destination point of distance to be measured M1 M1 move the mouse and click the place where you want the dimension line to be displayed M1 Write down the measurements then erase the dimension lines Edit Erase 3 c Broaden the collar and the lapel according to your wish
133. ng thin plastic coated strip out of your PatternMaker package and put it across the top of your computer Tutorial 2 Opening A Drawing And Viewing It keyboard It shows you what each special key does Find F1 on the overlay just above it it says Zoom Out Press F1 and the whole drawing will get smaller The drawing itself hasn t changed but your view has zoomed out like a movie camera Press F2 to zoom back in Now put the mouse cursor on a part of the drawing you would like a closer look at Press F3 Position mouse cursor F3 and the view will zoom in on that spot PANNING Arrow key The arrow keys will move your view left right up or down without changing the size of the picture Use any or all of the following keys a few times to get a feel for them F1 F2 F3 F9 PG UP PG DOWN HOME END lt T gt lt J gt lt e gt 5 When you are done press END This is the ZOOM ALL command and it centers the entire drawing in the drawing area OTHER FUNCTION KEYS lt F4 gt will display the grid The dots you see are one inch or one centimeter apart until you set them to something different If no dots appear you need to zoom either in or out until the dots appear Pressing the F4 key again will hide the grid F5 will display the vertices that the objects in your drawing are made up of An X appears at each vertex Pressing F5 again will hide t
134. nges Then when you reopen your drawing as you just did it will return to the way it was the last time you ran the SAVE command You have now finished Tutorial 4 You now know how to copy move and rearrange the objects in your pattern You also know how to save your work and how to retrieve your saved work if necessary In Tutorial 5 you will use the CUT and JOIN commands to modify your sloper You will also learn how to use snap points to make your inputs precise 23 24 TUTORIAL 5 CUT JOIN AND SNAP POINTS In Tutorial 3 you drew a sample pattern piece consisting of two objects In this tutorial we will modify your sloper We will see how using snap points makes precise adjustments easy Start PatternMaker and open the file BACKSLOPER PAT that you created in Tutorial 3 You should see the sloper object the horizontal waist line you drew and the box around them If you don t press lt END gt to put them in view We are going to use the CUT and JOIN functions to make this sloper 2 inches shorter First we will draw a horizontal cut line then we will cut the sloper in two We will move the bottom piece up 2 inches then we will join the two pieces back together DRAW A LINE Select the Line icon It has a diagonal line on it Select Line function Select the first point of the line with the mouse It should be a bit to the left of the sloper object and slightly above the line that marks the waistline Enter a poi
135. nning a command that needs you to select one or more objects SELECTING OBJECTS Important Knowing how to select an object or objects is very important in PatternMaker In future tutorials you will often be told to select objects Practice the following procedure until you are comfortable with it Read the manual paragraphs on selecting objects Chapter 4 They give more details than are included here Put the mouse cursor on or near the sloper object and click the left button Select sloper object Make sure to click on one of the white lines not in the center of the object The object will highlight a highlighted object is drawn in thicker lines and the prompt will now say Tutorial 4 The Edit Functions Select object for help lt esc gt done Polygon selected If nothing happens you didn t click the mouse close enough to the edge of the object If the wrong object highlights click on it again and it will be un selected Then select the sloper object Note that the line inside the sloper is not highlighted This is because it is a different object and you haven t selected it yet We want the waistline to stay with the sloper when we move it so select the line too Select horizontal line The computer will keep asking you to select more objects until you tell it you re done selecting You should now have both the sloper and the line highlighted Tell the computer you re finished selecting objects by pressing the Esc
136. nt Now as you move the mouse the line will follow it around We want to draw a perfectly horizontal line but you may notice that it s hard to keep it from being not quite level This is where snap points come in SNAP TO ORTHO Hold the Ctrl key down while pressing the F5 key lt CTRL gt lt F5 gt This is the Snap to Ortho command Note that you can interrupt other commands with the Snap functions just like the zoom and pan commands you learned earlier You use Snap to Ortho to select a point that is aligned vertically or horizontally with the last point you selected Move the mouse until the line following the mouse cursor is almost horizontal A yellow X will appear If you look closely the line following the mouse actually goes to the yellow X not to the mouse cursor This is the snap point Tutorial 5 CUT JOIN and Snap Points Now move the mouse up until the line following the mouse is a diagonal at approximately a 45 degree angle The yellow X disappears This is because there is no ortho snap point close to the mouse Therefore the line follows the mouse again Move the mouse until the line following the cursor is vertical Once again you will see a snap point Snap to Ortho gives you both vertical and horizontal snaps Select a point to the right of the sloper object Make sure the yellow X is showing when you click the mouse so the line you draw is a perfect horizontal Make sure the line you draw is long enough to cut
137. nts Snap to Grid Nearest grid point Snap to End Pt Nearest vertex of an object use F5 to view these Snap to Nearest Nearest point on an object whether or not it s a vertex Snap to Ortho Nearest point vertical or horizontal to previous point Snap to Mid Point Nearest midpoint of a line segment Snap to Intersect Nearest intersection of two line segments Snap to Offset Point offset from nearest point Used for seam allowances and facings This is a little more complicated so it s covered in a different tutorial Snap to Measured Point on an object but a given distance from an existing point of the object Used to place Distance points at measured distances along curves such as armholes This mode is also more complicated 27 Tutorial 5 CUT JOIN and Snap Points 28 Save the changes to your drawing Select File Save PLACING A POINT ON A CURVE OPTIONAL The Snap to Measured Distance mode is a more specialized snap mode that is useful for placing points at measured distances along curves We will use it here to place an alignment mark on our piece s armhole to be matched up against a similar mark on a sleeve piece Note The Snap to Measured Distance mode is somewhat complicated and it is an exception to the usual way points are input in PatternMaker Avoid confusion by exiting snap mode lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt as soon as you are done using the snap mode We want the mark 3 inches from the point where the side s
138. nu select Create Select Symbols Create A box appears On the left the name BTNHOLE is the only existing symbol On the right SYM1 is the default name the name that will be assigned to your symbol if you just press lt ENTER gt Since you want to redefine BTNHOLE select that name Select BTNHOLE from list ENTER Another box will ask you if you want to redefine symbol BTNHOLE Answer yes Y Now you need to slect a group of objects that will be included in the symbol definition Select the square and the text you just drew Remember that to select a text object you need to click at its lower left corner Select small square Select text lt ESC gt The next prompt is Insertion point The insertion point is the handle that you use to place a symbol It s important to keep the same insertion point when redefining a symbol otherwise all the symbol insertions will be moved off kilter This is why you centered the square around 0 0 the existing BINHOLE has its insertion point at its center Select the origin Select point 0 0 53 Tutorial 10 Symbols and Library Files All the insertions of BTNHOLE are now changed to reflect the redefined symbol A symbol can also be redefined by loading a symbol of the same name from a library file Select Erase function Select small square at origin Select text near origin lt ESC gt Changing or erasing the original objects doesn t affect
139. o previous Zoom setting SYMBOL Insert Symbol Create an insertion object Library Designate a file as the library Load From Library Symbol Load a symbol definition from the library file Object Load an object from the library Group Load a group of objects from the library Purge Delete all unused symbol definitions from memory Explode Break up an insertion or polygon object into its component parts Group Create a group Ungroup Break a group up SETTINGS Snap Mode Sets the snap mode Units Set working units inches or centimeters and display for dimension lines Grid Set grid spacing Set Defaults Layer View and change Layer settings Color Set current drawing color Pattern Set current drawing fill pattern Line Set current drawing line style Font Set current text font Dim Settings Set display settings for dimension lines Printing Arrange the pattern pieces for printing The page size of your printer can be shown on the screen with the command File Set Print Area Using it you can arrange the pattern pieces so that they print economically If you use a printer with A4 or letter size paper place the patterns near to each other in an rectangular area of the screen If you have a printer which uses a bigger paper e g a matrix printer with wide paper you can check what is the needed paper length Maybe you can arrange pattern pieces so that they fit on one page in which case you do not need to join the papers Prin
140. obe esed 16 SAVE TAB LE eee pras pE Sue Po e REED teda tis 42 SEAM ALLOWANCE eee 56 60 SELECI LIBRARY 54 3 ettet ev een a ERR Eye seeks 50 SET MARKER AREA eem 64 SET MEASURE DIST teret istoc dex nura eee ee 34 EEE i M 38 UNDO M n 20 ZOON Londen teles obe ftoi Pa RR 10 14 ZOOM ALL 2 ctm tre cox Ee ot e eds 11 13 33 coordinates BIOS OCG takes ont ieri tre api Td E uuo tdi i erg arbo Po Er IL iE 13 POLAR do censa ete do ee tbe enteras 15 relave us oi e cH EU itae EISE Pes co ddr 14 COPY cOd is nete te he hr o E betae he 22 CORNER VERTEX command eee 33 CREATE SYMBOL command eee 53 curve chaneine SDapecusascsene ete eii e te t HE e d 3 curves CEA WING aoo dicte boe eb cobro Beto tO ete feiern 14 CUT COMM ANC 5 ins nce oit ete E Ee EE RS 25 60 Index 152 CUT RATIO Comin sessed er erba E CERDO NES e n 62 65 D DEFINE PIECE command eeeceeceeeee 63 detimme Marker plec6s 6o ede dieere a abro ee Ero ORE 63 DELETE SEGMENT command eeess 33 DELETE VERTEX command sss 32 33 desimiatlols sepes eset eae AE AEA OAE AiE 19 DIM command tabat iae pei da E 36 DIM SETTINGS commnand e ccceeeeeeeses 37 Dimension OD CCS hss iu d amete dii e Ubri deeds 36 CHAN SINS Settimo S dos me ecran ie ene agotado o eer e EA Mens 37 HOTCOM ANd eao etri tee
141. of the move or the rotation Validity of acommand Web Page Tutorials The command which you have chosen is active until you choose another command In the box at the right top corner of the screen you see which command you have chosen or used If it is written in green the execution of the command is unfinished and you cannot choose a new command yet If the command is written in purple and you click with the mouse on the screen the command is repeated At this point you also can choose a new command Please note this especially in situations where you have used the erase command If you don t choose another command and click on the screen you might erase something which you didn t want to erase Luckily there is the Edit Undo command to undo the latest command If you want to choose a new command when the previous is still active and written in green press lt ESC gt key once or several times to cancel the current command Icons Draw polygon Draw rectangle Draw distance Change color Move Erase Cut caBlect a vertex Align File open amp Snap to endpoint Ctrl F3 Snap to midpoint Ctrl F6 Snap to intersection Ctrl F7 anaptomeas dist Ctrl F3 FB Pan down FB Pan right Zoom out All Select all C f SON d a Jj D a osi Hu FH 3E nie oe Draw line Uraw circle Draw text select pattern Copy Expand Join Align x Explode File open Mac
142. ommand from the Edit menu You learned how to use the Edit commands in Tutorial 4 so go ahead and erase the cut line Select Edit Erase Erase horizontal cut line Now to shorten the sloper we want to move the lower piece up exactly two inches It s hard to be that precise with the mouse We could do it by typing the coordinates we need but using snap points is faster First select the MOVE command and select the bottom part of the sloper Select Move command Select lower sloper object Notice that only the rectangular piece highlights instead of the whole sloper Since the line marking the waistline should stay the same distance above the hipline we need to move it too Select this line then press lt ESC gt to indicate that you are finished selecting Select horizontal waist line lt ESC gt SNAP TO GRID Press lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt to select Snap to Grid After you interrupt the MOVE command with the Snap to Grid command the prompt window will confirm the change then repeat the last message Base point Snap ON Mode GRID Base point The grid also appears Remember that the grid points are exactly 1 inch apart A yellow X will appear anytime the mouse cursor is near a grid point These snap points work much like the Snap to Ortho points except that a snap point appears at the nearest grid point This will make it easy to select a base and destination exactly 2 inches apart Remember that it doesn t
143. ons a line is a polygon with only two points and so on After you finish drawing it PatternMaker treats a line or rectangle just the same as any other polygon There are other object types that don t follow all of the same rules as polygons For instance you can t add or delete vertices from them These are text dimensions and symbol insertions To complete your introduction to polygons you need to try setting a color and fillstyle and to draw a dot and a circle Start PatternMaker but don t load the drawing you have been working on Instead select the Color icon It s the one with swatches of various colors on it SETTING THE DRAWING COLOR Select Color icon A box appears with swatches of 16 colors The swatch in the upper left can be any color it represents Uselayercolor which will be explained later Use the mouse to select one of the shades of blue Select Blue square with mouse The word Blue or some variation appears on the left side of the status bar at the top of the screen This is the current draw color Everything you draw will be blue until you change this again SETTING THE FILL PATTERN Now select the Pattern icon It s next to the Color icon and has several diagonal bars on it Select Pattern icon Another box appears with samples of various styles of fill patterns The all black box represents no fill at all which is what you will use most of the time For now select one of the other fill patterns
144. ou must make them visible Put the view back in Draw Mode by clicking on the words Marker mode Select Draw Mode The notch marks reappear They were copied and moved along with the marker pieces because each pattern piece was grouped with its notch marks in the file you started with This tutorial will not cover the printing of the marker because the details vary depending on the printer you have If you have any trouble refer to your Windows manual and your printer manual If the marker is the wrong width for your printer you may want to reset the marker area to the proper width and rearrange the pieces Print marker If you chose to label the pieces each piece will have a label something like Medium 2 These are the size and bundle number If you put together all the pieces that have the same size and bundle number you will have a complete set of pieces for one T shirt At this point if you are in need of a T shirt you may cut out the marker pieces and sew them together Don t forget that you also need a collar Otherwise you are now done with the PatternMaker tutorials Start using PatternMaker to make your own patterns and markers and keep reading the manual to learn more ways to use PatternMaker 69 70 Web Page Tutorials WEB PAGE TUTORIALS by Leena Lahteenmaki The following tutorials were written by Finnish designer Leena L hteenm ki who also designed the garment collection that came with your Patte
145. oup a name just click the OK button Click OK button Tutorial 4 The Edit Functions You have just made a group of the sloper and the line Now select the MOVE function and then select the sloper object Select Move function Select sloper object When you do this the line is selected and highlighted as well We don t really want to move these objects so cancel the MOVE function lt ESC gt lt ESC gt UNGROUPING OBJECTS To break the group up again use the UNGROUP command in the Symbol menu Select Symbol Ungroup function Select sloper group lt ESC gt Now the sloper and the line are independent objects again MORE EDITING COMMANDS Try the following commands from the Edit menu All of them work in a way similar to MOVE The steps you follow are 1 Select a command 2 Select objects by clicking the left mouse button on them 3 Press lt ESC gt or click the right mouse button to finish selecting objects 4 Give PatternMaker more information either by entering points with the mouse making choices when asked or typing inputs 5 You can repeat a command by clicking the mouse in the drawing area again Read the manual sections on these commands for an explanation of each one Like MOVE some of these commands move objects around as you move the mouse You can get a general idea of their effects by just watching what happens as you move the mouse Don t worry about making a mess of t
146. ove Move one or more objects Copy Copy one or more objects Mirror Make mirror image copy of one or more objects Rotate Rotate one or more objects Expand Resize one or more objects X and Y scales are the same Resize Resize one or more objects X and Y scales are different HINT Use this to resize the patterns to reduce patterns for garments to be sewn of elastic fabrics Change Change color fill pattern line style text font text or layer for one or more objects Erase Delete one or more objects Close Object Convert an open object to a closed object Cut Use one object to cut another Join Join two objects into one POINT Add Vertex Add a vertex to an object Delete Vertex Remove one or more vertices from their object s Move Vertex Move one or more vertices Rotate Vertex Rotate one or more vertices Delete Segment Remove a segment or arc from object Corner Vertex Change one or more arc corner points to regular type Line vertices Round Vertex Change one or more vertices to arc corner points Align X Align points on a vertical line same X value Align Y Align points on a horizontal line same Y value Set Measure Dist Measure or adjust the length of a curve or section of an object VIEW Grid Show hide grid Points Show hide vertices of objects Zoom Pan Move view of the drawing area Zoom Zoom in or out 113 Web Page Tutorials 114 Zoom All Zoom to show all objects Zoom Previous Go back t
147. points at which the measurement is taken The numbers should read 9m or 2 d OF ONO If the numbers are too small to read use the DIM SETTINGS command to change their size Select Settings Set Defaults Dim A dialog box opens with three fields Text Size Line Offset and Arrow Size Click in the field labeled Text Size and type 1 5 lt ENTER gt The numbers will be redrawn in the new size If you ever run a command such as MOVE VERTEX that changes the length of a dimension line the numbers will automatically update to show the new measurement If you wish experiement with different numbers in the other fields to see what effect they have on the dimension line Arrow Size and Line Offset are not covered in this tutorial 37 Tutorial 7 Polygons Text and Dimension Objects 38 CREATING TEXT Select the text icon It looks like a large letter A in fancy script Select Text icon A text object has only one vertex it shows where the lower left corner of the text goes Your first text object will be a label for the sloper object so select a point about 1 1 2 inches below the lower left corner of the sloper Select any point below lower left of sloper A box will come up titled Enter text info Leave the size and angle alone For Text enter Back Sloper ENTER The text will be added to the drawing To add another text object select a point about halfway up the center back line the lef
148. r gt with your other hand 5 Resize the pattern according to the elasticity of the fabric you are going to use Edit Resize Let us assume that your fabric stretches 20 horizontally and 10 vertically then the scaling factors which the program asks would be x 0 8 and y 0 9 Choose the command select the object to be resized M1 and accept M2 Then type from keyboard F for scaling factor Type in the dialog box 0 8 as the x scaling factor and 0 9 as the y scaling factor and click OK 6 If you want to sew bike shorts shorten the legs according to your wishes Draw two circles to use as Web Page Tutorials guides in drawing the cutting lines If you want the shorts to be 20 cm long from the crotch use circles with a radius of 20 cm Position the center points of the circles at the front and back crotch points Draw Circle CtrlF3 M1 Type in 20 lt Enter gt Repeat for the second circle Then draw a line which starts and ends at the intersection of the circle and the leg Draw Line CtrlF7 Deactivate snap to intersection when you don t need it any more It makes your program very slow CtrlF1 7 Then cut the pattern with the line you drew Edit Cut Choose the command choose the object to be cut M1 accept M2 and then the object to cut with M1 accept M2 Erase the circles and the cutting line as well as the lower leg piece Edit Erase Exercise 4 drafting a collar In this exercise you learn to draft a coll
149. r object lt ESC gt Select point where side seam meets arm scye lt ESC gt You have selected the two ends of the side seam PatternMaker doesn t know whether you want to connect these points the long way or the short way so it highlights the section in red and asks Is this the right segment Answer Yes or No until PatternMaker has selected the correct section A box will appear asking you for offset distance the width of the seam allowance The default is 1 4 inch 25 Change this to 1 2 inch Tutorial 11 Offsets Seam Allowances and Facings Select OK button Now the program asks you to select another point on the object Select point where arm scye meets shoulder lt ESC gt Another box appears asking you for offset distance The seam width for this curved section along the armscye is 1 4 inch 25 Before you select OK look at all four of the buttons in this dialog box The Cancel button cancels the whole operation The Done Open button ends the seam allowance right where it is and makes the new seam allowance object an open object The Done Closed button continues the seam allowance all the way around to where it started making a closed object This is the usual way to finish a seam allowance Select OK button Finish the seam allowance on your own Select more sections and enter seam widths Select Done Closed when finished NOTE FIXED WIDTH SEAM ALLOWANCE The
150. rmined by the program y du program 2 give a paint 3 give the end paint on the are Arc points in a right angle Rule Mo 1 Starting point Arc points on a straight line i a e Rule No 2 Straight X Corner point of second are line Starting point af End paint first arc a Ji End point of Second arc ale i Comer point of End point of first arc and first are starting point of second are HINT Examine the points of the basic bodice to see what the above rules mean in practice Make the points visible with lt F5 gt Exercise 2 Draw a freeform arc choose the polygon tool Draw Poly from the menu or from the icons M1 the left button of the mouse Give the base point of the arc with M1 anywhere in the drawing area open the sub menu for polygons with M2 and choose option Arc x from the given choices Place the corner point of the arc anywhere in the drawing area M1 Place the end point of the arc anywhere in the drawing area Open the sub menu for polygon again with M2 and choose option Open done from the given list Display points with F5 Move the corner point of the arc to see how the shape of the arc changes after having used the command Point Move Vertex 89 Web Page Tutorials 90 1 Select the corner point with MI it turns red 2 And accept the selection with M2 3 Give the base point of the move near the selected point M1 and move the mouse Notice how the point
151. rnMaker program You can find additions and updates to these tutorials as well as sewing instructions and other information on Leena s web site at http www leenas com 71 Web Page Tutorials 12 Web Page Tutorials ELEMENTARY TUTORIAL 1 Lesson 1 Note In this tutorial an abbreviation of M1 is used for the left button of the mouse and an abbreviation of M2 for the right button of the mouse Other abbreviations CF center front CB center back What are the macros Each macro is a little computer program that draws a particular pattern based on measurements you give it These patterns are made up of polygon objects which can be modified like any other objects in your drawing PatternMaker macros were programmed in Finland and they are based on the Scandinavian Pattern drafting method They have been thoroughly tested in commercial and school use There is a very important benefit of the Scandinavian pattern drafting system All the measurements you have to take are unambiguous and easy to take There is no need to take cross measurements from shoulder tip to CF or CB which are quite difficult to take Front and back circumferences are measured as one and bust waist abdomen or hip circumference are not measured separately at front and at back The length of the side seam is not measured The PatternMaker macros have been programmed by a pattern drafting professional i e an end user of the program like you So sh
152. rne 63 DELETE SEGMENT sioan E E 33 DELETE VERTEX uite E EE 32 99 DIM Pr P 36 DEM SETTINGS oie ptos nocte a vx on tue de Ur seers 37 ib Sg P 28 36 EDIT ARROW o cnesiteetese ute nee aeos IM ETERNA TS 4 Eden ees RU UU TIT 21 ERASE cesonia n eb itae telle 22 EX rc es 9 EXPAND S osa Gt ene tbe RD a Rete T RD REA 22 EX PTE 0 b pt 54 GRADE edito ete e EE S Eae totes 44 Ue H 2 Tr ABL Sesion ceat bent t aaron eet tust Coran LI S 46 LINE Mc T tose 16 24 LOAD GROUP steer bete ete 55 LOAD OBJECT cuta ty P e inea Tena 55 LOAD SYMBOL h teet ed tee t n PD 5 MARKER REPORT ente Cen eee v adven n ua 68 MIRROR usiessa obedece 22 MOVE menneisiin a ea A ST 18 MOVE VERTEX didici teh N ien 30 31 33 OFFSE I p 57 OPEN ec Hr qo 10 PACK LBED UP DONWJNceietivesevese ume even ede e ea 67 PAN uncommon titan as i Ipae tr E 11 14 PATTERN usus e E Ve EE VE E e Re EE Eo E ea 35 Pointe Tell os Gore pee ee b n erbe bae to Sela o uud 33 POLY d 14 PRINT MARRER i tee be tee n teet 69 PURGE p 55 READ TABLE rye nea teli 43 REC T 31e Poe TET EA E 8 13 40 epea cose teo tu dc Foot dike capture ced obeunt 9 20 PRE SIZE c 21 ROTATE d sctetefickdt ie Brus ES 21 ROTATE VERTEX cceuascresineise aS 33 ROUND VERTEX 225 mite dene e tob s 33 LUTTE sess costes dendo i erat teca o coo viae aptid 8 SUA N Ease aerae tta Ead Toll vas ke ha dictata Ee a
153. ro Help Snap to grid Ctrl F2 gt snap ta end paint Ctrl Fa gt Snap to nearest Ctrl F4 Snap to offset Ctrl F8 Pan up Pan left oom in Selection window Learn to use the icons They speed up your work a lot Please note that the choice of icons available 85 Web Page Tutorials changes according to the situation For instance the Move icon is not available if there aren t any objects in the drawing to be moved Other icons are described in the User s manual Drawing With the drawing tools of the program you can draw anything that you could draw with a pen and paper compasses or ruler Draw line 1 Point base point M1 ie as Draw distance 2 Point end point M1 1 point base paint M1 ai 3 paint location M 1 23 paint end point M i Draw circle 9 27 1 point center point M 1 E txt 7 i 4 paint a paint an perimeter or type radius fram keyboard Draw rectangle Draw polygon 2 point next 11 paint base paint M1 13 point base point M1 point M1 F EN 3 point next A wpoint M1 A paint destination M1 d 4 point next 5 paint last paint M 1 point M1 open drop down menu MZ 5 paint next select Danerclased M1 paint M1 Exercise 1 Try to draw one of each of the objects described in the above picture Use the Draw menu in the menu bar or one of the drawing icons Objects and points Objects pieces The pieces on the drawing area are called objects There are
154. rom Browser now If not Click the Start button on the taskbar then click Run and type Click Start button Click Run d demo32 exe If your CD drive is not drive D substitute the appropriate letter Click the OK button Click OK button A file dialog box opens Select the file pat32 ver4 dbd and click Open This runs the PatternMaker CD browser Select file PAT32 VER4 DBD Click Open button The main menu of the CD browser will be displayed INSTALL COMPONENTS FROM BROWSER Click the button labeled Install Products Click Install Products button Now you see the Installation menu Move the mouse over the buttons and notice that you get a Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started description of what each button does There are several things here you can install but for now we re only concerned with the PatternMaker program and perhaps a garment collection Move your mouse over the button to the right of the words PatternMaker Version 4 After you ve read the description go ahead and click the button Click button labeled View Options There are two options for installing the PatternMaker program Choose one now 1 IF YOU ARE USING THE DEMO Click the button to the right of the words Program With Demo Macros Click button labled Install Now This will launch the PatternMaker Setup program Setup installs PatternMaker and a set of de
155. rtex b Draw guide circles with a radius of 8 1 cm with the center points at the armpit vertices as in the picture Draw Circle CtrIF3 Choose the command point at the center point of the circle and then type 129 Web Page Tutorials 130 the radius from the keyboard 8 1 lt Enter gt Add new vertices at the intersection of the circles and the armscye lines Point Add vertex Having chosen the command select the arc where the new vertex is to be added at the armscye M1 accept M2 Choose the position of the new vertex using snap to intersection CtrlF7 We mark these vertices with letters G and H 4 Move the front left half of the sleeve to a place where vertex F of the front piece and vertex G of the front sleeve are one on top of the other Use command Edit Move and snap to endpoint CtrlF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved the left half of the sleeve M1 and accept M2 Point with M1 vertex G as the starting base point of the move and vertex F as the destination point of the move Move the back half of the sleeve accordingly Ab h 5 Rotate the front sleeve so that it touches the shoulder tip vertex Edit Rotate CtrlF3 After having chosen the command select the object to be rotated front sleeve M1 and accept M2 Choose as the point to rotate about vertex F M1 Click with M1 for the starting point of the rotation anywhere on the screen M1 Move the mouse and when the the sleeve head touche
156. rting point of the move 0 0 Enter and as the destination point of the move 0 3 Enter 3 Using the vertices of the waist and the guide lines draw the pattern pieces for the raised waist Draw Poly Ctrl F3 4 To draw waist facings copy the pattern pieces for the raised waist above the skirt pieces Edit Copy Move the pieces of the facings adjacent to each other Edit Move CtrIF3 Choose the command then select the piece to be moved M1 accept M2 Give as the starting point of the move one of the edge points of the piece M1 and as the destination point of the move the edge point of the other piece where you want the pieces to meet M1 Join the facing pieces Edit Join After choosing the command select one of the pieces to be joined M1 accept M2 Then select the piece next to it MI M2 Continue joining pieces one at a time selecting the piece which you just joined M1 M2 and then the piece the be joined with it M1 M2 5 Join skirt pieces and the pieces for the raised waist To round the corner of the center front pieces at the hem add vertices on the CF line at a distance of 10 cm from the hem and at the hem line at a distance of 10 cm from CF use snap to measured distance CtrIF9 or draw guide circles with a radius of 10 cm Finally change the center front point of the hem to round point Point Round vertex 123 Web Page Tutorials 124 Radius 10 cm Fi Round vertex Exercise 6 Wraparound skirt
157. ry moving the mouse around You will see that the point you selected moves while the rest of the object stays still Now to put this point on the grid point 1 24 select Snap to Grid lt CTRL gt lt F2 gt and select the point with the mouse refer to the mouse coordinates in the status bar to be sure it s the right one Select point 1 24 You could also have done this by typing 1 24 lt ENTER gt Get out of snap mode by pressing lt CTRL gt lt F1 gt CHANGING THE SHAPE OF AN ARC You will notice that you have just spoiled the curve of the neckline You will also notice that there is an X just to the right of the point you just moved which doesn t seem to be connected to the drawing This is the corner point of the arc it controls the shape of the arc You can fix the neckline by moving this point You can repeat the MOVE VERTEX command by clicking the left mouse button Click on the arc corner point to select it then stop selecting points Select arc corner point lt ESC gt You now need to select a base point for your move Adjusting the shape of arcs is best done by eye so don t worry about using snap points Select any point 3l Tutorial 6 Point Edit Functions 32 Now when you move the mouse the shape of the neckline changes Move it until the neckline takes on a reasonable shape When the neckline is right the corner point should be level horizontal with the point you moved previously
158. s Remove all sleeve pocket and facing pieces using the command Edit Erase Select all the pieces you are going to erase one by one M1 MI M1 accept M2 Display points by pressing F5 3 Align the CB points with the back neck CB point Choose the command Point Align X Select the CB point of the back neck M1 accept M2 4 Select the CB points on waist abdomen hip and hem MI M1 M1 M1 accept M2 Then align all the hem points according to any top hip abdomen point Choose the command Point Align Y 2 Choose any point at the top of the hip e g at the CB seam M1 accept M2 3 Select all hem points of all pieces MI MI MI accept the selection M2 HINT Aligning points is a handy way to remove seam allowances from CF or CB seam First draw seam allowance pieces around all pieces Draw Offset Align the CB points of the seam allowance pieces with any CB points of the CB piece and CF points of the front seam allowance piece with any CF point of the CF piece Note The same result is better received by removing all hip and hem points Point Delete vertex The feature Align Y is here used for pedagogic reasons Using Align Y in the way described above causes two points to be one on the other at the hem points which may cause problems when creating seam allowances More designing exercises Exercise 18 In the following exercise you learn the easiest way to alter a jacket with a tailored collar into a jacket with a
159. s the shoulder tip click with M1 for the destination of the rotation Rotate the back sleeve accordingly 6 Draw the raglan sleeves along the existing vertices Please refer to the picture to see vertices of the sleeve to be drawn Use command Draw Poly Choose the vertices of the polygon one by one M1 M1 MI When you have pointed all the vertices and come to the last but one vertex open the polygon menu with M2 and choose the option Done closed When drawing use the snap which you find best in the situation in question CtrIF3 or CtrlF4 or no snap You can draw the arcs angular and change the vertices in question later to round vertices Point Round vertex 7 Draw the new front and back pieces accordingly Draw Poly CtrlF3 Go along the existing vertices Draw the front pieces in three separate pieces 1 e upper part of the center front piece the lower part of the center front piece and the front side piece Draw the back piece also in three separate pieces 1 e the upper part of the center back piece and the lower part of the center back piece and the back side piece Web Page Tutorials A 8 Rotate the upper part of the center front piece to close the temporary dart at the CF Edit Rotate CtrlF3 Choose the command select the object to be rotated the upper part of the center front piece MI accept M2 Choose the dart apex as the point to rotate about M1 the upper vertex of the dart at the CF line as the starting
160. se note that in real life the grading rules from size 40 to 48 are not consistent So the patterns graded in this exercise are not correct To make a correct grading table for all the sizes run the basic bodice macro with the measurements of all the sizes by turns The lengths of the grading arrows can then be measured from the basic bodices in different sizes The simplest way to make a grading table to be used with the PatternMaker patterns is to make a grading table with sizes 40 and 42 and open it in a text editor giving the grading rules for other sizes typing them in the table This grading table can be read to any patterns drafted with the PatternMaker macros for top garments jackets dresses blouses vests Create a similar grading table for the skirts and for the pants Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki The following measurements are given in centimeters Bust 880 920 960 1000 1040 Abdomen 890 920 950 990 1030 Hip 960 990 1020 1060 110 0 ArmLengh 60 0 602 604 606 608 149 Web Page Tutorials 150 151 INDEX Please note this Index does not reference the Web Tutorials A absolyte coordinates Aserist aneaceadayseetencecoanens 13 ADD ARROW command ccccccceeeceeeeeeeeeseeeeseeees 40 ADD TACK Command jess eie irte eta ete ex ees 4 ADD VERTEX command eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees 33 ALIGN X COMMIAN aieo waves E t ape a iod 34 ALIGN
161. seevivevesacsveveesvivasesevevevevssivevesereveseusvevevsaceeusweveets 47 Burn layc rs omn ani O ae A ess cedi ea EE re 48 R setinge the NAY CLS i o ERN EEEN HH ediecccecscsdesccesscccececececcecsccacacasesececacccesteesseusecnsauessuseseustescecesasess 48 TUTORIAL 10 SYMBOLS AND LIBRARY FILES eere 50 Selec n ASV IMDOLMDE ALY 4 Er Re ev vuoto eve ee ee 50 TOAGING ASV ON siccccecacecscececccececacececececccesecacevecedccecesciscececenccaceceuesexgeeccccucsecssecacecsecesascsscassecececccets 51 Creating or redefining a symbol Expert or Marker Versions only 32 CYEAUNS A SVIMDOI MD FAT y e 54 The Explode command acidic M 54 TUTORIAL 11 OFFSETS SEAM ALLOWANCES AND FACINGS 56 varrableseam allowale iiit ESI E EE EV E U u VEC V u VET UU DE srest 56 Change uice 357 SPP O O o dee 58 Smoke seam ANOW ANCE sis aaa aiea aE a EEE EE 60 TUTORIAL 12 MARKERS saiccessaiececeseccdsdeseediceicdedainieddadetcl tainted deta eee se ce ce baee eese 62 Setting the Cut Raw m VENNS 62 Denne Marker PICCOS E x EE TA 63 hd Erg tod i cR ETE 63 wis MILI DIS qo eu duo alia a iia eO mme eS 64 NIul pivy Dy C ut RaUOinndmiiio eee eeseeees eee seeeeeseeeeeee eo ee ee use cece vere E E SESSE SEES 65 AFPANGING A Marker ERIT 65 VE
162. sfer the dart by rotating the topmost of the cut pieces so that the shoulder dart is closed and a dart opens up at the armscye Edit Rotate CtrlF3 Join all front pieces except the original front side piece into one piece Edit Join 137 Web Page Tutorials Mirror 2 Base point Destination 1 of rotation of rotation h Center point The reflecting Brera line 5 5a Base point Clos e cm 54 3 Destination _ r E me 5a Center open A 5 5 Sb base point 5b Center Rotate 4 Draw cutting lines across the joined front pieces as in the picture Draw Line All the lines have to extend beyond the edges of the piece Notice that one cutting line has to go through the bust apex Use snap to end point CtrlF3 to be exact Cut the piece with the lines that you drew Edit Cut 5 a Rotate the pieces so that the dart which was moved to the armscye is closed and so that b each intersection of the cutting lines is opened to 5 cm The center and base points of the rotation have been marked in the picture The distance of the rotation is given by typing from the keyboard 5 lt Enter gt Exercise 13 A corset from a basic bodice 1 Run the basic bodice macro File Macro Lbodice mac Decrease 2 cm of ease on the front and the back pieces The whole circumference is thus decreased by 8 cm i e the ease that has originally been added to the body measurements in the basic bodice patt
163. shawl collar Look at the picture below 104 Web Page Tutorials Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ljacket mac File Macro 2 Erase all other pieces except the CF piece and the collar Choose the command Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one MI MI MI accept M2 3 Erase all other pieces except the CF piece and the collar Choose the command Edit Erase Select all the pieces to be erased one by one M1 MI MI accept M2 4 Move the collar so that it touches the CF piece as in picture Choose the command Edit Move Select the collar Ml accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the collar point which is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 and as the destination point of the move the point of CF piece which is marked with an arrow in the picture M1 Use snap to end point to be exact Ctrl F3 5 Join the collar to the CF piece after choosing the command Edit Join select the collar M1 accept M2 and select the CF piece M1 accept M2 6 If you want to you can remove the angle in the shawl collar by deleting the points in it Choose the command Point Delete vertex Select the points to be removed M1 accept M2 HINT Even if the outer edge of the shawl collar can be seen without joining the pieces it is usually wise to join the pieces This way it is much easier to draw seam allow
164. ssiet en Rete eles cena 33 VIC WING a drawilig siio drei tea e eoo De edet 10 PAIN CODIDadsu ete etti e ote odes 11 ZOOM commands scx serere te rete vedere 10 Z ZOOM ALL command eene nne 11 13 33 ZOOM COPI 5 Ete Pr ed Gee bo M SEA ovs 160 14 153
165. ssociated measuring illustration Pay special attention when taking the measurements because the patterns the program drafts will not fit well unless the measurements have been taken correctly Write the measurements and the measuring date down Note Be careful when typing the measurements in the dialog boxes Afterwards PatternMaker does not let you recheck what measurements you have typed HINT If you want to you can save the dialog boxes through the Windows clipboard by using key combination Alt lt PrintScreen gt From the Windows clipboard you can paste the dialog boxes into any Windows program like Notebook Notepad or Write In most of the macros there are two dialog boxes for measurements You have to transfer the first one to the other program before you can move the other to the clipboard Look for more information about the Windows clipboard in your Windows user s manual HINT If you want to you can make your own versions of the macros by opening the macro file in a text editing program and replacing the default measurements with your own measurements 81 Web Page Tutorials Default measurements are called Test measurements in the macro file The variables for the measurements are as follows ry bust circ ky neck circ vy waist circ yly abdomen circ aly hip circ rkkv bust span sl back width ylk abdomen height alk hip height sp back length op shoulder length hp sleeve length kay biceps circ ray wri
166. st circ rk bust height vk waist height Be sure to save the corrected macro in text form txt and with a different name Although the program can read the macro files with another extension than mac it is recommended that you save them with this extension so that the program always prompts for them automatically PatternMaker screen Pattern aker File Draw Edit Point View Symbol Grade Settings Help Laver Status bar Location of Cursor File name Menu bar Mame ofthe COMMAND EER if green performing ofthe command is unfinished ICON a if purple execution af the command has finished The calce changes but can be repeated according ta the situation BLACK AR working area Command line User carnce Done Command File name In the topmost bar of the screen in brackets is the name of the current file The name is noname pat until you save it with a name or open a saved file Menu bar The bar under the filename bar is the menu bar You choose the commands from this menu or by clicking on an icon Click with M1 on a word in the menu bar and you get a drop down menu where you can choose the command with Ml You can choose a command also by typing a key combination ALT the underlined letter of the command name Status bar Drawing color The first area in the status bar shows the drawing color of the objects default color is white 82 Web Page Tutorials When you click th
167. t lt F8 gt 1 lt TAB gt 1 ENTER Now find the snap point approximately an inch below and to the right of the corner point of the neckline Use lt F5 gt to show the corner point if you need to Select snap point The point you entered is the corner point of the new arc The end of the arc is 1 inch below the point where the neckline meets the center back line You need to reset the offset distances again lt CTRL gt lt F8 gt 0 TAB 1 ENTER Select snap point below center back neck point You now have an arc that parallels the neckline one inch below it For the rest of the facing use Snap to end point to trace the neckline itself Don t forget to switch to Line in the Point Type Options and back to Arc lt CTRL gt lt F3 gt lt ESC gt Select Line L Select center back neck point lt ESC gt Select Arc X Select corner point of neckline arc Select shoulder neck point lt ESC gt lt ESC gt When you have finished drawing the facing object it will look like this 59 Tutorial 11 Offsets Seam Allowances and Facings 60 The facing object is shown slightly misaligned here so you can see it better A reminder on Snap to Offset set both the offset distances the same if you want a constant offset distance Set two different values if you want to draw a point where two different offsets or two different widths of seam allowance come together SINGLE SEAM ALLOWANCE Th
168. t Round vertex or you can when you come to this point change the polygon tool to the arc mode by opening the polygon menu with M2 and choosing from the menu Arc x When you have finished the arc change the polygon tool back to line mode M2 Line When drawing the wrap pieces be sure to draw one vertex at the waist CF to be able to draw the center line later using this vertex Erase all the guide circles Edit Erase Radius Wer 4 Draw 7 cm wide facings at the edges of the wrap pieces a Draw a vertical guide line from the top of the front edge of the right side wrap piece as in the picture Draw Line CtrIF3 CtrlF5 b Copy this line 7 cm to the right and to the left use command Edit Copy select the line to be copied M1 and accept M2 Type as the base point of the move 0 0 Enter and as the destination point of the move 7 0 Enter Then select the same line and type as the base point of the move 0 0 Enter and as the destination point of the move 7 0 Enter c Draw a help line starting at the intersection of the left line and the hem and from there horizontally CtrIF5 to and across the edge of the piece as in the picture Use command Draw Line choose as the starting base point of the line the intersection of the left line CtrIF7 and the hem change to snap to ortho CtrlF5 move the mouse and click when you have moved across the right side guide line Web Page Tutorials Draw similar gui
169. t about which the rotation is to be done the center point of the rotation M1 The amount of rotation can be given in three different ways l Select two points on the screen with M1 base point and destination point and the rotation amount is the distance between these two points Select one point on the screen with M1 base point with M1 and type the rotation distance from the keyboard The program calculates how many degrees of rotation will move the point this distance If you want to rotate clockwise give a negative distance and if you want the rotation to be counterclockwise give a positive 4 distance Type the rotation angle in degrees from keyboard If you want to rotate clockwise give a negative angle and if you want the rotation to be counterclockwise give a positive angle If you type 180 as the rotation angle the object is rotated upside down If you type 90 the object is rotated 90 counterclockwise If you type 90 the object is rotated 90 clockwise Exercise 10 Practice these three ways of rotating an object m ve dr oe Clear the window with the command File New Draw a line Choose the command Draw Line then select the end points of the line in the drawing area M1 and MI Choose the command Edit Rotate Rotate the line by selecting the center point base point and destination point of the rotation with mouse use snap to end point Ctrl F3 to be exact Select the line
170. t is closed Choose the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 point the center base and destination points M1 M1 M1 8 Rotate the bottom part of the side piece so that the shoulder bust dart is closed Choose the command Edit Rotate and the piece to be rotated M1 M2 point the center base and destination points M1 M1 M1 NOTE When using the cutting the command Edit Cut you always have to select the piece to be cut Web Page Tutorials first and the piece to cut with second Exercise 22 Learn to rotate points by drawing patterns for an A line dress Rotate points of other pieces corresponding h Be sure ta give the rotation distance negative when the the rotation amp clockwise hese points have been rotated about the point Base of rotation i o o lt Enter gt After the rotation you can delete and d tance 2 lt Enter top hip and hip points of all seare Clear the screen using the command File New Answer No when the program asks whether you want to save the file or not Run the macro Ldress mac File Macro Erase the sleeve and its centerline as well as all facings After choosing the command Edit Erase select the objects to be erased one by one M1 MI MI accept selection M2 2 Choose the command Point Rotate Vertex Select the points of the CF piece to be rotated M1 MI MI look at the caption These points have been rotated in the picture below Then select
171. t line will now read Command DELVERTEX Select point s First point of selection window The selection window is a rectangle that 1s entered the same way you drew a rectangle in Tutorial 1 Click with the mouse to enter one corner move the mouse then click again to enter the opposite corner The rectangle should contain all four of the extra points near the waist line Tutorial 6 Point Edit Functions Select corner of selection window Select opposite corner of selection window The selection window will disappear and all of the points inside it will be highlighted Be careful You may have selected some points you don t want to delete Are the ends of the waist line highlighted If it s hard to tell use F3 to zoom in for a closer look If the ends of the line are highlighted click the mouse on them to un select them When an X changes back to white that point is un selected Un select any other points you didn t want to select too Un select points with mouse If you make a mistake too big to correct in this way you can continue with the DELETE VERTEX command then use the UNDO command to put things back the way they were When you have selected the correct points press lt ESC gt to delete them Save your work now You are about to make some changes that you won t want to save Before saving zoom to put the entire drawing in view lt END gt Select File Save Experiment with the other commands
172. t one page or all You can print either one page at a time using the command File Print or all using the command File Print All How much fits on one page is determined by the printer you use and its paper size To view the paper size on the screen use the command File Set Printer Area Hide the print area using the command Misc On Off Print Area Printing miniature patters If you want to you can print the patterns in a smaller scale Try using a scale of 1 10 Do as follows choose the command Edit Expand Type from keyboard letter A All to select all the objects and accept the selection with M2 or Esc Then type from keyboard the letter F Scale Factor and give the scale of 0 1 asked when in the dialog box Then click with M1 on lt OK gt To zoom the result press the lt End gt key on the keyboard Using the command File Set Print Area move the print area on the drawing and print it using the command File Print All Web Page Tutorials HINT Print the miniature patterns somewhere on the same paper as the full size patterns This way you can see at a glance what patterns there are Assembling the pages Each page will have small marks in the corners for alignment Put these together so they form little squares where four pages come together Glue or tape the pages together using these marks Nobody is a born master If you have not used CAD programs before you may feel at the beginning that drafting patterns with s
173. t side of the sloper object and about 1 inch to the right of the center back line The TEXT command will repeat automatically when you do this Select a point to right of center back line The text for this object don t press ENTER yet is Center Back Press TAB to move to the second text field which is for setting the size of the text The setting now is for 1 inch tall letters To make them a bit smaller enter 0 5 TAB The last entry in this box is for the text angle In PatternMaker text can be drawn at any angle O degrees means horizontal text The angles are measured up counterclockwise from horizontal so 90 degrees means the text is vertical reading upwards Type this in and then press ENTER to create the text object 90 ENTER Tutorial 7 Polygons Text and Dimension Objects The words Center Back appear along the center back line If the placement is bad you can use the MOVE command to move the text object Note When selecting text and dimension line objects for MOVE and other commands you have to click the mouse near a vertex not just anywhere on the object Show the vertices lt F5 gt if you aren t sure where the vertices are You have now been introduced to closed and open polygons dimension lines and text PatternMaker has one other type of object the symbol insertion These will be covered in Tutorial 10 Save your work Select File Exit Select Yes button
174. ter choosing the command select one or more objects pattern pieces whose pattern you want to change with M1 then accept the selection with M2 or lt ESC gt Choose Pattern from the options given and after that the pattern style you want to use Note Pattern styles other than empty use a lot of the printer ink so it is worth while carefully considering when to use other pattern styles Your results will depend on the printer you use This is also the way to change the color of the patterns or the line styles Web Page Tutorials Using the mouse The left button of the mouse in this tutorial M1 e when you draw you indicate the points with the left button of the mouse e when you edit the objects you select them with the left button of the mouse e otherwise you use the left button of the mouse to select a command or to answer questions e ENTER key can often be used in place of the left button of the mouse With the right button of the mouse in this tutorial M2 e you tell PatternMaker that you have made all the selections e often interrupt the command e in place of the right button of the mouse you can always use the lt ESC gt key e Note Never click and drag like you do in some other CAD programs Just press the mouse button down and release it before moving the mouse Taking the measurements When you want to run a macro with your own measurements do as follows Get acquainted with e measuring instructions e a
175. that their CB waist points lie on top of each other Edit Move CtrlF3 Choose the command select the piece to be moved back top piece MI accept M2 Choose as the base point of the move the CB waist vertex of the top M1 and as the destination of the move the CB waist point of the back pant M1 b Rotate the top piece so that its waist is on the back pants waist Edit Rotate CtrlF3 After having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated the top piece M1 accept M2 Choose the CB waist vertex of the top piece as the center point of the rotation the point to be rotated about M1 the waist side vertex of the top as the base point of the rotation M1 and the waist side vertex of the pant as the destination of the rotation M1 These points are marked in the picture 6a c To add vertical ease at the waist of the overall move the back top piece 2 cm up Edit Move Choose the command select the piece to be moved back top M1 and accept M2 Give as the base point of the move from keyboard 0 0 lt Enter gt and as the destination of the move 0 2 lt Enter gt d Rotate the back top so that you get an additional vertical ease at the CB waist Edit Rotate After having chosen the command select the piece to be rotated back top M1 and accept M2 Give the side 133 Web Page Tutorials vertex of the top waist as the center point of the rotation M1 and the CB vertex of the top waist as the base point of the rotat
176. this tutorial We have not covered the LOAD OBJECT and LOAD GROUP commands They work much like the LOAD SYMBOL command except that you place the object or group directly in the drawing instead of making insertions Any PatternMaker file can be an object or group library but you can only load objects and groups that you have given a name to see NAME OBJECT and NAME GROUP in the User s Manual You are now done with this tutorial Don t save your work Select File Exit N 55 56 TUTORIAL 11 OFFSETS SEAM ALLOWANCES AND FACINGS To make seam allowances and facings you will want to follow the outlines of existing objects but offset them by some distance You can do this with the OFFSET command the SEAM ALLOWANCE command or the Snap to Offset feature Start PatternMaker and open the drawing file you have been working on If the new sizes you graded are visible turn them off Select File Open Select BACKSLOPER PAT Select Layers command Turn Layers 1 2 3 OFF Select OK button VARIABLE SEAM ALLOWANCE Use SEAM ALLOWANCE to add a seam allowance to a pattern piece You can change the width of the seam allowance at different points For instance collars usually have less seam allowance than side seams Select Draw Seam Allowance Now select two points on the object These points are the ends of a section that will have a seam allowance added to it Select point where side seam meets waist on slope
177. tical lines b Draw a polygon around the area between the side seams of the front and the back piece Draw Poly CtrlF3 Go along the existing vertices and use snap to end point CtrIF3 At the waist of the side seam there are three vertices the center one is a round vertex You need not draw all these vertices just draw one line point at the center vertex as in the picture c In the same way draw a polygon around the back waist dart Draw Poly CtrlF3 2 Move the polygons horizontally so that their new positions are on the lines that you drew down from the armscyes Edit Move CtrlF3 Choose the Move command select the polygon drawn between the side seams M1 accept M2 Give as the base point of the move the joint hem point of the front and the back piece CtrIF3 M1 and as the destination point of the move the intersection CtrlF7 of the vertical line and hem CtrlF7 M1 Move the other help polygon similarly now to the line drawn down from the back armscye The base point of the move is now the intersection CtrlF7 of the line down from the back 139 Web Page Tutorials 140 waist dart with the hem line and the destination of the move is the intersection of the line drawn down from the back armscye with the hem line Draw the new shapes of the front back and side pieces following the existing points Draw Poly CtrlF3 Draw the front center and the front side pieces as two separate pieces Draw the back piece as one pi
178. tination anywhere on the screen M1 Draw a horizontal line The command Draw line is active and you do not need to choose it again Place the starting base point of the line anywhere on the screen MI Activate snap to ortho horizontal vertical snap lt Ctrl F5 gt Move the mouse and put the endpoint of the line anywhere in the drawing area Note that you can move the cursor only horizontally or vertically We ll get back to the snaps later on in this tutorial Deactivate snap to ortho Ctrl F1 Draw a horizontal line 10 cm long a Choose the starting point of the line anywhere in the drawing area M1 Type from the keyboard 10 0 and press Enter The end point of the line is now 10 cm to the right and 0 cm up down from the given starting point of the line b Or type coordinates of both the starting and the end point from keyboard After choosing the command Draw Line type from keyboard 0 0 and press Enter Then type 10 0 and press Enter The starting point of the line is now at the origin 0 0 of the drawing area and the end point 10 cm to the right from there Draw a 5 cm long vertical line which starts from the end point of the previous line typing its end point from keyboard Click M1 at the end point of the previous line Use snap to endpoint Ctrl F3 to be exact Type from keyboard 90 5 and press Enter Look carefully at the differences between the above exercises If and when you make your own p
179. u have chosen the move vertex command Choose the left top corner of the selection window with M1 move the mouse and point the right bottom corner of the selection window with M1 refer to the picture Accept the selection with M2 Then type as the base point of the move 0 0 Enter and as the destination point of the move 2 0 Enter 132 Web Page Tutorials 3 a Make a mirror copy of the back piece so it faces in the same direction as the pants back piece Edit Mirror Choose the command select the piece to be mirrored back piece M1 accept M2 Then give as the top point of the line to be reflected across the CB neck point M1 and as the bottom point of the line to be reflected against M1 Erase the original back piece Edit Erase b In order to add ease to the back piece move the points marked in the picture 2 cm to the right the same way you moved the points in the front piece Point Move vertex Use a selection window as illustrated in the picture 5 2 cm Selection vinga selection window 4 Now start designing the pants part of the overall Run the pants macro File Macro Lpants mac Erase center lines pocket mouth line waist band and the zipper extension Edit Erase 5 Add to the front and the back pants 2 cm ease in the same way you did in the top parts Point Move vertex Use a selection window illustrated in the picture 6 a Move the top back piece to touch the pants back piece so
180. uch a program is clumsy Sometimes you may think This could be done quicker with a pencil and paper That might be true at that time After you have learned to use the program you will notice that PatternMaker is superior to any method of drafting the patterns manually You can alter the patterns on the screen and print the patterns only when you are satisfied with them You can easily compare different versions of patterns print them as miniature patterns and save them for future use If you want to alter the patterns drafted by the macros and you have not yet learned how to do it quickly with the editing tools of the program you can print the patterns out and then make the alterations manually with a pencil or scissors before you cut the patterns Now you have learned the program and will be able draft any kind of patterns for yourself or for your friends or if you are in a line for business for your customers Only your own imagination and creativity set limits for you There is no sense nowadays to draft the basic patterns manually It is pure mathematics and can well be done by a machine You should concentrate on things that the machine cannot do creating fashion patterns and your own designs If you feel you want to learn more try the advanced design exercises With these lessons you ll not only learn to use PatternMaker even more effectively but also a lot of design techniques 115 Web Page Tutorials 116 ADVANCED T
181. ut the end point and PatternMaker places the corner point It does this such that the arc is tangent to the previous segment of the object Tangent This draws a line but it forces this line to continue in the direction established by the previous segment After you draw this segment the option reverts to Line Undo last point This removes the last point you drew then lets you continue from there Done Closed This finishes drawing the object and makes it a closed polygon Open done This finishes drawing the object and makes it an open polygon Cancel This cancels the command and gets rid of the partially drawn object Text When you run this command you will first input the point where the text goes Then a dialog box will appear for you to enter the actual text the angle and the size To set the font refer to the Change Font and Set Font functions Dot A dot is a polygon with one vertex It is displayed as a tiny circle Caution Not all printers print dots the same way they appear on the screen Make sure your printer can print dots before you use very many of them in your patterns Circle A circle is really a polygon with four curved sections and eight points You draw a circle by entering the center point and the radius Once it s drawn a circle is just like any other polygon Dim A dimension line is a measured distance between two points The program will prompt you for First Point and Second Point These are the start
182. utorial ZOOM and the related commands can be run by pressing some of the special keys on your keyboard You can do this at any time even if you re in the middle of running a different command Therefore these keys are known as hot keys You will find this is very important when you are adding to or changing a drawing If you don t have PatternMaker running already start it as you did in Tutorial 1 OPEN A DRAWING Use the mouse to select the File menu and select the OPEN command from this menu Press the RETURN or ENTER key Select File Open A dialog box will appear In the largest white area will be a list of all the PatternMaker for Windows drawing files in this directory This list will look something like this G0641 PAT LIBRARY PAI SUBDIR but it will probably be longer depending on how many drawing files you have Each name ending in PAT is the name of a drawing file Use the mouse to highlight the name of a drawing file you would like to look at Press the RETURN or ENTER key Select file G0641 PAT RETURN You will see a pattern appear in the drawing area You can read more about using the file selection box in Chapter 3 of the manual If you don t understand the organization of files on the disk you may want to refer to a book which explains Windows concepts in detail ZOOMING Try using some of the function keys to change your view of the drawing Take the overlay the lo
183. utton on Medium cut ratio Tutorial 12 Markers Click left button again Similarly set the Large cut ratio to 2 Set Large cut ratio to 2 Click Done button Now you have hidden the collar piece and prepared the cut ratios for sizes Medium and Large which you will soon make Before you grade the pattern you need to define the marker pieces DEFINE MARKER PIECES To define a drawing object as a marker piece use the DEFINE PIECE function in the Marker menu Select Marker Define Piece Each of the four pieces needs to be made into a marker piece The DEFINE PIECE function defines one object at a time as a marker piece so repeat the command for each piece Select front piece lt ESC gt Select back piece lt ESC gt Select sleeve lt ESC gt Select other sleeve lt ESC gt MARKER MODE The objects still look the same but they are now defined as marker pieces In fact they are the same you can do everything with them that you could before To check for mistakes switch the view mode to Marker Mode Do this by clicking the mouse on the words Draw Mode at the left of the status bar These words don t appear in the PatternMaker Home and Expert versions Select Marker Mode All the objects in the drawing disappear except for the ones you just defined as marker pieces You can go back to Draw Mode any time by selecting the Marker Mode function again Switching to Marker Mode is much like turning
184. you are done with the command because you see the prompt Command and the word RECT changes from green to purple in the status bar Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started REPEAT A COMMAND Click on a different point in the drawing area PatternMaker will start the Rectangle command and use this point as the first input Click on a different point in the drawing area to finish the rectangle Select a point with mouse Select another point with mouse Look for the prompt Command on the command line again RUN A COMMAND FROM THE MENU BAR You will now leave PatternMaker by running the EXIT command Put the cursor on the word File in the menu bar and click the left button Select File menu A menu will appear Look for the word Exit Note that the letter x is underlined Type X and PatternMaker will run the Exit command Before the program ends a box will appear asking the question Save file NONAME PAT Put the cursor on the word No and click the left button Select NO button You have finished running PatternMaker Now that you know how to run PatternMaker and give commands the other tutorials will teach you how to use those commands 10 TUTORIAL 2 OPENING A DRAWING AND VIEWING IT This tutorial shows you how to look at an existing PatternMaker drawing either one that came with the PatternMaker package or one that you have created yourself You will not draw or change anything in this t
185. you can undo it and try again M2 Undo last point If you find this difficult you can draw the collar first with all straight lines and change the arc corner points later to round points Point Round vertex Please note that there is not a point already drawn in the place where you have to draw point G To place this point use snap to intersection CtrIF7 Change your snap mode back to snap to end point CtrlF3 after you draw this point because snap to intersection will slow your computer down Method 2 Drafting the collar by typing points in from the keyboard Here you are entering exactly the same points as with Method 1 but without the frame to guide you Select the starting point of the collar A anywhere on the screen M1 and type other points from the keyboard as follows point B 2 5 0 Enter change the polygon tool to arc mode M2 Arc x point C 2 10 0 Enter point D 10 3 Enter change the polygon tool back to line mode M2 Line point E 5 6 Enter change to arc mode M2 Arc x point F 95 0 Enter point G 5 1 5 Enter point H 5 1 5 Enter point J 5 0 Enter finish M2 Done closed Method 3 Drafting the collar along the grid points of the screen Set the grid spacing to 1 cm using the command Misc Grid Activate snap to grid typing CtrlF2 You show and hide the grid by typing F4 Select the starting point of the collar A anywhere on the screen M1
186. you have purchased Click button labled Install Now Tutorial 1 Getting PatternMaker Started Confirm the folder where the macros will be installed The default for the macros is the same as the default for the PatternMaker program We recommend that you accept the default Confirm installation path Click the Unzip button Each macro collection is protected by a password Your PatternMaker package includes a piece of paper with the password printed on it Use this to install the macros Note the macro passwords are case sensitive and must be entered exactly as shown Enter macro password Click the OK button The macros will unzip and you will see a message box with a confirmation Click OK then close the Unzip dialog box if it 1s still open Click OK button Click Close button You will now return once again to the CD browser Exit the CD browser Click the button labled Main Menu Click the button labled Exit Click the button labled Exit Continue with the next section called Running PatternMaker PART 2 RUNNING PATTERNMAKER After you have installed PatternMaker you start it like any other Windows program by selecting its icon from the Start Programs menu Select Windows Start button on the taskbar Select Programs Select PatternMaker Select PatternMaker icon labled Pat32 As with any Windows program a new window or r

Version 6 Tutorials

Contents

Download Pdf Manuals

Related Search

Related Contents