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        Camshaft Installation & Degreeing
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1.   When checking true  double springs on a tester  be sure to use a retainer or other spacer to simulate the step on the head and or retainer  for the inner spring to duplicate the as installed configuration  If you are using a double spring assembly  we require  you break in the camshaft with the outer springs only   In this case assemble the heads with the outer springs only and  follow the regular break in instructions  After break in add the inner spring assembly and go racing  Be sure and check  the retainer to seal clearance  There should be a minimum of  060  of clearance at maximum valve lift    e See oil section for further details on spring pressures and break in     Page 1     gt  Piston to valve clearance     Chryslers do not have the piston to valve clearance problems that many other engines experience  However   after the valve lifts exceeds  500  and above you must check to be sure  The critical area is not at TDC  top dead  center   The critical areas are approximately 10   to 15   before TDC on the exhaust lobe and 10   to 15   after TDC on  the intake lobe  We suggest a minimum piston to valve clearance of  060  intake and  110  exhaust  In the event you  need additional clearance  we have a piston notching fixture that we rent to our customers  It can be used ona short  block ina car  Call for details  Part number s Hug 8340  small block   amp  8342  big block       gt  Check lifter bores    The lifters must slide up and down and turn freely in the bore when
2.   angle  In this case  if the lobe separation angle is 111    a 4      advance would be 107   centerline  111   4      Rotation    X    is the difference of the center line at the top of the  lobe vs  at 0 050  off the base circle            Base Circle    Tools required or that make the job a lot easier  1  Dial indicator with at least  500  travel  2  Degree wheel  Larger diameter is more accurate   The best ones are marked 0   to 90   and then go  backward from 90   to 0     3  Pointer for the degree wheel  Note  All of the above are included in kit  8346  4  Crankshaft turning tool p n 4799 or 67493  5  Height mike p n 8338 for setting valve spring heights  6  Burnishing Ball p n 8319       Page 4    Locating Top Dead Center     Note  Finding true top dead center is the area where many mistakes are made  Follow these instructions  carefully   In this example we will work with the intake lobe on cylinder  1     Install your    real Chrysler  camshaft     Pro Gear  timing chain and gears  For checking purposes only  set the  sprockets    dot to dot   Do not re use the old chain and sprockets    Start by rotating the crankshaft 360   to position the piston in cylinder  1 back at the top of the cylinder  Then  mount the degree wheel to the front of the crankshaft with the O  zero  or TDC mark at the 12 o clock position   Mount the pointer to the block and position it to point to the TDC  zero  mark on the degree wheel     Next  mount the dial indicator on the top of the block
3.  lubricated only with WD 40 or similar light  oil as a lubricant  You must be able to lift the lifter off of the cam  release it and hear it    thunk    against the cam  If it  doesn t do this  using only its own weight  it is too tight  If the old lifters had to be forced through the bore to remove  them  it is quite likely that the lifter bore is damaged and will not allow the lifter to rotate properly  It doesn t take  much  Fix it or expect problems  Use our Lifter Broaching Tool  P N 8319  to correct tight or damaged lifter bores    gt  Lifters  Tappets      All flat tappet camshafts  both hydraulic and solid  must be installed with new lifters  NO EXCEPTIONS    Only roller  camshafts can be installed with good used roller lifters     Flat tappet hydraulic  amp  solid lifter clearance  amp  rotation check    It is mandatory that all flat tappet lifters be free in their bores and spin as the cam rotates in the block  We suggest  the following procedure to test for both of these conditions  before final installation of the cam     1  Install the camshaft clean and dry in the block  with oil only on the bearing journals     2  Install your new lifters with dry bottoms and only a light coat of WD  40   or similar light oil on the sides  only  Never use used lifters     3  Mark all the lifters and block with witness marks with a felt tip pen so you can see how far the lifters  rotate     4  Install the camshaft sprocket  only     5  Using a speed handle and the proper socket 
4.  rotate the cam while applying a small pressure on the socket   to keep it properly located against the block     6  Observe the lifters  they must rise and fall by their own weight  If not  they are too tight  We have a  special tool to properly size and clearance the lifter bores  P N 8319     7  Rotate the camshaft at the speed of approximately 2 turns per second  for a total of 16 revolutions     Page 2    8  Check the mark on top of the lifter  It must indicate that the lifters were trying to rotate  You would like  to see about 90   rotation indicated  though some may turn as much as 1 full turn  All lifters will not rotate  the same amount or the same direction  If a lifter does not rotate at all   try again   the cam and lifter    must be dry where they contact for this test to work properly  It may be necessary to move lifter s  to  other bores in order to see rotation     9  If you encounter a lifter that absolutely will not rotate after following these steps contact us     10  Make sure to install the lifters in the same bore during final assembly     DO NOT fill  pump up  or soak any hydraulic lifters before installation  Mechanical camshafts should be given  slightly less valve lash for break in only  with iron heads approximately  004   005  less  This causes the lifter to spin  more easily  When using aluminum heads the cold lash setting for mechanical cams should be about  006  004  tighter  than called for Hot  during initial start up and break in  Be sure an
5.  with the plunger contacting the center of the piston and  about  100  preload     Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and counter clockwise past TDC  Then zero the dial indicator at the highest point  of the piston travel  This is not true TDC  yet  Again  rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the piston has  descended exactly  060  below TDC as shown on the dial indicator  Mark this position on the degree wheel  masking  tape and a pen works well   Precision is important at this point  Your mark should be approximately 3   to 10   from  TDC  We will call this point    A        Back up the crankshaft   turning it counter clockwise  moving the piston up to the top position and then down in the  bore  Allow the piston to go about  100  down and then stop  Now rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the dial  indicator shows exactly  060  before the piston has reached TDC  At this position  mark the point on the degree  wheel    B   Exactly   way between points  A  and    B    is true TDC     Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the pointer is at the exact   way point between  A  and    B   This point may  or may not be on the zero mark of the degree wheel  but very close if you have followed these instructions  properly  Now the crank and piston position are at true Top Dead Center  Reposition your pointer to the zero mark  on the degree wheel  and you are ready to proceed     Checking the Open and Closing Points of the Intake Lobe    l     Install a lifter on the intake lobe corre
6. 500 to 2500 RPM max  After  the break in period  reset the idle and timing  Check for air leaks  vacuum   fuel leaks  oil leaks  and coolant leaks  Correct as  needed  Install the inner valve springs if they were removed and check the valve lash     During the break in period the combustion chambers are very hot and the headers may appear to glow  This is normal and  should go away after break in when the engine returns to normal idle speeds  Gently revving the engine during break in will  eliminate or greatly reduce these conditions     If you do not follow these instructions  you may be very sad   The most important time in the life of your new camshaft and  lifters are the first few minutes of start up     If you have any questions  CALL US BEFORE YOU DO IT  There are no dumb questions  After you make the mistake  they are  dumb questions because you already know the answer  The odds are in your favor  only about 1 in 400 people screw up and flatten  their cam  If you have any questions about the components recommended for your camshaft refer to the supplied cam spec card or  call us      gt  Diagnosis     Hydraulic lifters that lose their prime  collapse  quickly after start up  have dirt in them  The lifters with dirt in them can be  disassembled and cleaned or replaced  Many problems are created during disassembly of an engine prior to a rebuild by pulling  damaged lifters up through the lifter bore causing grooves and burrs in the bore  These burrs will make lifter spi
7. Camshaft Installation Instructions   Updated Sept 2015     We appreciate your choosing one of our real Chrysler   camshafts and installation kits for your engine  We have  developed the following instructions to help everyone  from the first timer to the experts  install our camshafts  correctly  For many engine builders this may be the most difficult job to do correctly  However for the best tech  help in the industry we are only a phone call  309 745 9558  or email www information hughesengines com   away   When the phone rings a human will answer  Shop hours 8 5 M F C S T       Note  We supply coordinated parts such as lifters  springs  Break In lubes  oils  etc  and we strongly recommend you  use them to make sure you have successful results  Beware  there are many sub standard parts available that have  high rates of failure  we do not sell them     The actual cam  lifter  valve spring  and timing chain replacement is fairly straight forward and a standard automotive  service manual procedure can be used    but as you know    the devil is in the details  and that is what we are going to  explain     Intermediate shaft note  All Hughes Engines big block roller cams and the small block mechanical roller cams only  will  require a coated steel distributor gear  Use SB  69970 1  BB  66970 1    HERE ARE THE DETAILS   gt Preparation   There are certain tools you must have to do this job properly and some that make it easier and more accurate   We will call out the tools and pa
8. bottle of a ZDDP additive is a cheap way around the problem   it   s not   All flat tappet cams now require specialty oil  We use and suggest these fine oils     For Break In After Break In   Joe Gibbs Driven BR 10W30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod 10W30 Conventional   Joe Gibbs Driven BR 5W30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod 10W30 Synthetic   Joe Gibbs XP3 10W30 Synthetic    The above break In oils are  We recommend synthetic oil only  non synthetic and suitable after cam and ring break in   for breaking in fresh rings        Page 9    Note  Our soluble moly Extreme Pressure Lubricant part number 3690 is still a suitable additive  for hydraulic flat tappet cams with 320  lbs open pressure or less and API oils with an API rating  of SJ or SL      As an example of detergent to ZDDP ratios  API rated oils may have 4 parts detergents to 1 part  ZDDP ratio where Joe Gibbs Driven Break In is about 1 part detergent to 6 parts ZDDP  over 20  times better     For further information on oil please refer to our Tech Articles on our website  Engine Oils     Article  203           ZS  aes    L  rA    Fa    HughesEngines com     309 745 9558 or email information hughesengines com       Page 10    
9. d check pre load lash when the lifter is on the  heel of the camshaft  If you do not have adjustable rocker arms or pushrods and you find the preload is incorrect   you may need either rocker shaft shims  longer or adjustable pushrods  Hughes Engines Inc  can supply all these parts  if needed  call us     Installing and Adjusting Hughes Hydraulic Lifters    1  Do not wash in any solvent  Wipe the parts off with a lint free towel    2  Use 10W30 oil and lube the O D  of the body as well as wheel on roller lifters    3  The desired lifter to bore clearance on cast iron blocks is   0015     0017    On aluminum blocks that oil the lifter  the clearance is   0012     0014    Both of these measurements are at 70 Deg F     Aluminum blocks will have a higher rate of expansion and that is why the clearance is tighter     Adjusting the pre load setting of the Lifter   Select the pre load needed from the list below   Lifter part numbers 5001  5003  5006  amp  5007   Cast iron block  amp  cast iron heads   080  085    Cast iron block  amp  aluminum heads   090  095   Lifter part numbers 5319  amp  5321   Cast iron block  amp  cast iron heads   020  025    Cast iron block  amp  aluminum heads   030   035    Aluminum block  amp  aluminum heads   045   050     1  Use the firing order to set the valves  Mopar V8 firing order  1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2  2  Put  1 cylinder on top dead center     3  This puts the int  and exh  to be adjusted on the base circle of the camshaft   4  Place a feeler gage bla
10. de  chosen from the list above  between the valve tip and the rocker arm     5  Tighten the adjusting screw  or nut  until you can no longer spin the pushrod by rubbing your finger across it   This is zero   0   lash     6  Withdraw the feeler gage and note how far you must continue to turn the adjuster    screw to reach zero   0   lash  Now continue to tighten the adjuster screw that same amount to preload the  lifter   7  Repeat these adjustments for each cylinder running through the firing order   Note  High performance hydraulic cams lifters are not as quiet as stock cam     Page 3     gt  Magnum  Roller Hydraulic Cams    Before removing the distributor  mark the base and the intake with    witness    marks so that the distributor can be  reinstalled correctly  Keep in mind that the distributors in Magnum truck applications DO NOT control the spark timing and cannot  be    timed    with timing light  All Magnum hydraulic roller lifters need 2 turns   080   of pre load  Roller cams do not require a break   in or spring changes like flat tappet cams     Degreeing the camshaft    Why you should degree the camshaft  We want this cam to run the best it can  you should tool     You ve spent a lot of money and are going to spend a lot of time   might as well do it right  Degreeing the  camshaft correctly with a dial indicator and degree wheel tells you that all the components that control the position of  the camshaft are accurate  Just because many of the parts are new  does no
11. enterline and should correspond to the centerline printed  on the camshaft card     Example 1  When using a small cam where the intake opens after TDC with a 112   lobe separation angle  If for  example the intake should open at 2   ATC  After Top Center  and close at 36   ABC  After Bottom  Center   Add up the total number of degrees from 2   ATC to BDC  178    and the number of degrees  from BDC to 36   ABC  36     178   36     214    Divide 214   by 2  this is 107    The 107   is added to the  opening point of the 2   ATC equaling 109    which is the proper intake centerline and 3   advanced for the  sample cam     Example 2  Using a larger camshaft where the intake opens before TDC with a 107   lobe separation angle  If for  example the intake should open at 21   BTC  Before Top Center  and close at 49   ABC  Add the 21   BTC  and the 180    from TDC to BDC  and the 49   ABC  which totals 250    Divide the 250   by 2  this is 125     Starting at 21   BTC  the intake opening point  the centerline of the lobe is 125   after the intake opens  which puts the intake centerline at 104   ATC  just as the camshaft card reads        6  The following are general guidelines for comparing your measured points vs  the numbers on your cam card  If the  centerline is within     a  1   of the camshaft spec card  then put then engine together  b  2   of the camshaft spec card  correct it as necessary   c  If you have to choose between 1   advanced or 1   retarded  pick 1   advance     Cor
12. for 30 minutes        It is very important that the engine does not turn over more than 3 or 4 times to fire up  While you are  cranking over the engine  the break in lube is being wiped off   BAD NEWS    Do not crank the engine with a  new cam to     1  Bring up the oil pressure      Use an oil pump primer shaft  2  Fill the carburetor with fuel       Use your electric pump or take the line off and fill it by hand  3  Check the spark       Take the distributor out and spin it by hand with the ignition key on  non   Magnum     Don t listen to anyone who says to do this differently  you don t want a flat cam and we don t want to hear about a flat cam   People who tell you differently are not your friends  Triple check the ignition timing see the diagram on page_7_  approximately 10    to 12   BTDC is good  and spark plug wire order before touching the key  Most start up problems occur here  Pump the carburetor   4 or 5 times  to squirt fuel into the manifold  Make sure your battery is up to full charge and that you have sufficient fuel to run  30 minutes  The carburetor idle screw should be turned approximately   to 4 turn to make sure the engine idles properly  DO NOT  Let the Engine Idle under 2000 RPM the engine for the first 30 minutes  If you have an oil or water leak that is not dangerous  continue to run the engine 10 minutes before you shut it off      gt  Now you are ready     Fire it up  The engine should not idle in the first 30 minutes  Rev the engine gently from 1
13. n difficult  if not  impossible  If you flatten a lobe  checking the sides of the lifter with a 10X magnifying glass will show the grooves about 1 8  to 3   off the bottom of the lifter on the sides  Sometimes they will be deep enough to feel with your fingernail  These grooves act asa    keyway and prevent lifter rotation causing cam and lifter damage     A dry or improperly lubricated camshaft will suffer damage as soon as the engine is fired up  The lobe and lifter can be  totally destroyed in a few seconds  The engine should run for 16 20 hours before the lobe wear pattern is completely across the tip  and the swirl grind marks on the bottom of the lifter are gone  Quicker developing wear patterns indicate problems such as spring  stack up  wrong oil  or too much break in pressure  Flooding the crankcase with fuel is a leading cause of cam lifter failure   Excessive fuel pressure sticking float  etc  causes the oil to list its    lubrication ability  Say    goodbye camshaft   With Holley type  carbs  we suggest a 3 5 power valve for break in  Coolant leaks can also destroy the oil s ability to do its job     Page 8    Camshaft Lubrication Facts    DO NOT USE ANY OIL THAT HAS API RATINGS LABELS  ON THEM WITH ANY FLAT TAPPET CAMS        These oils have either too little zinc phosphate additive and or too much detergent to properly  lubricate any flat tappet cam and lifters  They are designed this way due to government regulations  to prevent damage to Algore   s precious ca
14. rections and Final assembly    1  Correct the timing as necessary and Recheck  Crankshaft sprockets with 3 keyways  offset keys and offset  bushings are notoriously inaccurate  We have found the Pro Gear   timing chain assembly to be very accurate  and long lived  which is why we use and sell them     2  When it s correct  Loc Tite   the bolts  torque to spec and put it together     This method is for Hughes Engines       real Chrysler Cams  and may not work with other brands of cams   Tips   If the engine is on an engine stand  rotate it so the lifter is vertical which helps it follow the lobe more accurately  In our  shop we use an    extra long    lifter  7   to add weight to help the lifter follow the cam lobe and to allow us to position the dial  indicator in a more readable position  The extra long lifter is 3 old lifters tack welded together     The process of degreeing a camshaft can require removing and reinstalling the degree wheel several times  re setting the  degree wheel each time is VERY time consuming  This time can be greatly reduced by using our tool p n 4799 crankshaft turning  tool  You need to find T D C  once on each job  Using cam break in lube or oil between the cam and lifter during the degree in  procedure can cause errors  due to hydroplaning     A common problem encountered when installing a timing chain and sprockets is to install the ignition distributor 180   out of  time  This happens because the piston is on the overlap stroke  not the compres
15. rts numbers where appropriate      gt  Cleaning and lubrication     Double check that the number stamped into the end of the cam matches what you ordered  Lightly wash the  camshaft in clean solvent and blow it dry with compressed air  DO NOT BRUSH OR SCRUB A FLAT TAPPET CAM  WITH ANYTHING   With flat tappet camshafts  apply the supplied camshaft break in lube to the cam lobes including  fuel pump lobe  and the lifter bottoms only  NOTE  Roller cams do not require break in lube on the cam  Use light  engine oil on the sides of the lifters  Use engine oil or assembly lube on the bearing journals  distributor gear  and  pushrod ends  With roller tappet camshafts use a good quality heavy duty engine oil to lubricate the camshaft and  lifters  OIL  Oils have changed and not for the better  please use oil specifically designed for your cam type to  protect cam  lifters  and pocket books  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT       gt  Valve springs     Our camshafts are designed differently and have more lift than other cams of the same size  therefore it is  mandatory that you use a spring with the correct amount of open  over the nose  and closed  seat  pressure and also  check the valve spring installed height  The enclosed camshaft card will tell you our part number for the springs and  the pressures installed height to use  A minimum of  060  spring travel beyond the maximum lift is required  If you  have a problem  we have many different retainers to adjust the installed height     CALL US
16. sion stroke  This is why  When the sprockets are in  the classic installation position  with the cam sprocket s dot down at 6 00 position and the crank sprocket s dot up at the 12 00 and  the number 1 piston at top dead center  it is not on the compression stroke  Rotate the crank 1 more turn  putting both sprockets     dots at 12 00 and the  1 piston at top dead center  Now you are on the compression stroke  and you can install the distributor   No   I don t know why it is this way  It has been this way forever  on all American engines since timing chains have been used   It s  probably Al Gores idea  he has lots of good ones    We suggest that you spray the timing chain libercy with gel lube before installing the timing cover     Page 6    How to Make the Engine Easier to Start    small Block Big Block              Rotation Rotation  Rotor    Postion  Rotor    Postion     1 Cap    Terminal  1 Cap    Terminal    Edges Line Up Edges Line Up    1970  amp  Later  BI BI k  S Mm d     4   ock Earlier models have Ig OC    marks on opposite side           Rotation    fo Rg    ay lt pi   p a   i  a  fa   ry      4    Front of Engine Front of Engine     gt     With the engine on the compression stroke on  1 cylinder  set the crankshaft  to 10   or 12   before TDC as shown above  Install the distributor so the rotor  has just passed the  1 cylinder terminal on the cap as shown above  Make    sure you have fuel in the carb  lines and tank  Fire it up   Rev softly between 1500 3000 RPM 
17. sponding to the piston you just checked TDC   1   Lubricate the bottom of  the lifter with very light oil  such as WD 40  do not use cam lube or oil at this time  and check to make sure it  moves freely in its bore  The weight of the lifter and the dial indicator spring are the only things pushing the lifter  down against the camshaft  If the lifter hangs or binds in the lifter bore even slightly during checking  you will get  very confusing results and the job will be difficult     Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the lifter is on the heel  base circle  of the camshaft  See Figure 1   At this  point zero the dial indicator with about  100  preload on the push rod cup in the lifter  The indicator plunger must    be inline with the lifter s line of travel     Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the lifter has lifted  050  according to the dial indicator  this will be Point A  in Figure 1  Note the position of pointer on the degree wheel  Masking tape and pen  accuracy important here     Continue to rotate the crankshaft and the lifter will rise to over  300  lift and then begin to descend  When the  lifter descends  equal to what it rose  which will be a point  050  before reaching point    B    the base circle  stop   Make a note of the location of the pointer on your degree wheel  this is the intake closing point  Always turn the  crankshaft clockwise while checking the camshaft timing  NEVER back up    Page 5    5  Half way between Point A and Point B is the camshaft c
18. t guarantee they will degree in accurately  with the other parts  such as the crankshaft  The only way to know is to check  Checking the center line position of the  camshaft can be confusing due to the similarity of the terms lobe separation angle and center line  We will try to make  it as easy as possible to center line the camshaft the correct way     Note  All Hughes Engines camshafts are ground with some advance in them  This means if the camshaft is center   lined or degreed in to the specs on the cam card it will be advanced to match whatever the cam card says is  ground into it  However  this does not mean if you install the sprockets    dot to dot  it will be advanced  properly  It should be  but you don t know for sure unless you check it   You do not need to enter the degrees  of advance into any of your calculations  It is already figured in      The lobes on Hughes Engines Inc  are non symmetrical  A non symmetrical lobe will have a different center line when  checked at 0 050  above the base circle than it does when checked at the top of the lobe  Hughes Engines Inc   camshafts must be checked at the bottom of the lobe  which is 0 050  tappet lift off the base circle     Figure 1    Point  A  is 0 050  off the base circle and is the opening  point     Point B Point A Point    B    is 0 050  off the base circle and is the closing  point     For example  let s say our camshaft is advanced 4   and will  have a center line that is 4   less than the lobe separation 
19. talytic converter  We couldn   t care less about Algore  but we do care about you and your camshaft     Zinc phosphate  ZDDP  additive is our best friend in oil  especially in break in oil  ZDDP clings to  hot high friction areas of an engine  specifically cam lobes and lifters  They prevent metal to metal  contact with a sacrificial coating on those areas  You need a minimum of 1200 parts per million   PPM  of ZDDP after the cam is broken in  During break in you should use oil with 2200 2400  PPM  This amount is no longer available in A P I  rated oils  These are the generally available oils   and the ZDDP was reduced  by law  to less than 1000 PPM in 1996 and less than 850 PPM in  2001  so you can see how bad it is  Now to make things even worse  detergent  which is also in all  oil in varying amounts  competes with the ZDDP for position on the cam and lifters  The more  detergent  the less effective the ZDDP is  Some oils have sufficient ZDDP but they also have so  much detergent in them as well  that the ZDDP can   t do the job that you think it should  based on  the amount of ZDDP they list  That is why modern oils aren   t suitable for street rod or performance  engines with flat tappet cams   These facts apply to all diesel and synthetic oils too    Additives  ZDDP is a family of additives and can react to other oils and additives in non beneficial  ways when poured in separately  You must be a petroleum chemist to know what will work  You  may think that pouring in a 
    
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