L23 and 23SL Owners Manual - Strib Nano-Bryg
Contents
1. Reefing Points How Many Roller Reefing the Main Slab Reefing Setting Up Storm Jib 19 Issue 5 April 2012 Section 8 Windows amp Hatches Original Arrangements Windows 23SL The windows on this model are different from those on the L23 The material is 10mm Perspex and the bevelled edged windows are affixed to the cabin sides by countersunk Stainless steel screws The screws do not penetrate into the cabin because the sides are double skinned as shown in the second picture with the window trim removed Between en the window and the cabin side there is a strip of self adhesive neoprene which provides the primary seal between window and cabin side Leaks are the usual problem and as can be seen in the photo sealant has been applied round the edge of the window Another slight weakness is that the countersunk screws tend to act as wedges and over tightening these in an attempt to stop leaks can cause the Perspex to split Over time the windows suffer from UV crazing and there is little that can be done about this except to replace them There is information later in this Section about replacing windows Windows L23 The two pictures right well illustrate the different window arrangements in the L23 The inner skin has moulded in recesses around the window apertures which bring the two skins into contact though not a bonded contact This enables the windows to be through bolted On the exterior the2. rope and standing rigging wire must be correctly positioned Make sure that the heel of the mast is over the bow that the sail track groove is facing downwards and that the furling genoa foil is lying on top of the mast and spreaders The backstay Should be lying underneath the mast Drape the backstay bridle over the stern The two cap upper shrouds should each run through the alloy fitments on the end of the spreaders with split pins or screws ensuring that the shrouds cannot escape the spreaders themselves should be secured to the mast by split pins or nuts and bolts The bottle screw on each upper shroud can now be connected to the middle deck eye The forward and aft lower shrouds can now be connected to their deck eyes Next and a most important step oosely tie the top of each bottle screw to the guard wire with a piece of shock cord Failure to make the bottle screws stand up like this can result in bent or broken bottle screws should they become snagged on the deck eyes as the mast is raised Before going on to raise the mast check that all the running rigging is in its proper place There should be at least three ropes the topping lift main halyard and genoa halyard plus a thin Signal halyard from the starboard spreader from which you proudly fly your Leisure Owners pennant There may also be a cruising chute or spinnaker halyard The e topping lift runs over the rearmost sheave on the mast head crane and runs up and
3. 2 SL23 Window Replacement L27 same principles as for 23SL Forum Items Forehatch Leak SL23 Window Replacement 2 SL23 Window Replacement 3 SL23 21 Issue 1 April 2012 Section 9 Cabin Interior General Both the earlier model and the SL version are in principle very similar in construction below decks The differences essentially reflect the different design of the windows and coach roof the latter giving an an additional 40mm headroom In both models the cabin wall and roof have an air Spaced inner grp skin which merges with the outer grp skin into a single wall at the join of the superstructure and hull they also have a thin teak ply lining screwed to the ceiling inner skin All the berth mouldings are single skin GRP and the cabin sole is a moulded sheet of grp screwed to the berth and galley mouldings It is worth lifting this occasionally because water from any substantial leak tends to accumulate here Galley Facilities The water supply to the sink unit was originally provided in the L23 by a 55 litre built in grp tank which utilised the hull and locker side in the fore peak The 23SL had a separate steel tank in the fore peak Both tanks fed a hand operated pump mounted on the sink unit Some boats now have either a foot pump or an electric unit operated by a micro switch within the tap unit and perhaps an in line filter such as a Jabsco unit Whether a stop valve was originally fitted on the sink outlet is not
4. EXA alli 15 Poresalla nodo 8 16 A tice tees 13 14 15 AA A Maatasewassh 17 El a RP O E er knee tenants te Marr reer res ret 24 S TaN Pe O O 15 24 25 SA 11 Hala ala ciid 7 8 9 19 20 21 ES A sect EO 21272223 Hea an east aes se ona Dea tcae 25 HISO Yene A AE 6 PN seo E ETETE AE AEN EATS 2 10 12 EASAN Ao E Or ries Zi 20 21 A AN 11 12 Es a e 21 A E A TAE 27 28 AAA e 27 28 Lowenns Mist 12 17 Mantas dia eee ts 14 28 AET EE EEE EE E PE 2 0 TZ 1617 Mastand iii 7 Mast HCE AA E tates 17 NASA LOS idos 28 DIN Usan died 15 CU DOA A A A 14 27 28 Overa T eein 13 14 15 PHS UMO eana e ad anlar 1721 FODE IE ei E ER 14 Propeller Boan suenen 15 IR CCIM GO oanien EE 16 17 19 20 21 Rigging Diari iii 1519 Rudd nn ase cd 2 10 18 Running RIBgIM8 ooooonnnnnncccnnnoconcnnnnnononos 2 16 19 Ln E E ue dedi tt lm naetonanhs 25 Sadr A A sue neaaieelss 11 14 15 alain 11 12 14 15 18 22 23 E 2 10 18 a A o EE cease 28 SPINS GaSe ina e EAT ES 25 A A nE 11 12 Standing RIB8INB ooooonnnnncccncccnonnnnnnnnnnoo 2 6 7 16 A aaeetraterlestregsuenctetee erence 27 28 AAA A O 14 18 Upho ler asias tilda 25 A A 9 27 28 Waterloo 14 15 Water PUN ee e tosemiate todas 15 Water Tink Coe eR none OMe otto 25 AN OCE A A Pe a 12 Wind Generato eocenie iaoi e 28 WAM O E 222 WY ADIN sorain aniani 26 27 28 acond 2 Issue 5 April 2012 LEISURE OWNERS ASSOCIATION L23 and 23SL Owners Manual Section 1 Introduction Purpose
5. Hinges Table Modification 2 Eberspacher Heater Table Resurface Gas Testers Toilet Interior Woodwork Upholstery for 27 but same principles Jabsco Toilet Water and Gas Storage Quarter Berth Storage Water Leak Reupholstering Water Tank Cleaning Seacock Servicing Water Tank Cleaning 2 Separate Heads Water Tank Replacement 23 Issue 1 April 2012 Section 10 Electrics and Instruments Original Arrangements When these boats were built very little was fitted as standard All interior and navigation lights the battery and log and echo sounder were all standard extras A cable loom and switch panel were fitted but it is now unclear about what facilities these provided The wiring diagram in the Reference Library Wiring Diagram gives a good indication of how the various electrical items could have been wired Advances in technology members ingenuity and the depth of their pockets have resulted in boats now equipped in vastly different ways Batteries Most boats now carry two batteries with a change over switch such that either can be used for engine starting or to feed domestic needs If only one battery is fitted it must have an isolating switch The primary engine battery should be located close to the engine to minimize voltage drop when starting an in board engine Charging is usually done by the engine alternator and often via a split arrangement whereby the charge is fed only to the low unit an article in the Re
6. end of each line A good way of joining the two is by sewing a couple of loops onto the end of each line with a medium whipping twine The messenger can then be tied on to the loops with a bowline and the join covered with plastic insulating tape to taper the joint Putting the lines in a low temperature cycle in the washing machine will remove ingrained dirt and salt It is best to constrain the lines in a bag eg an old pillowslip to reduce the amount of tangling The usual problem with lines is either breakage and or losing a halyard in the mast Providing there is still one halyard or messenger in the mast the situation can be retrieved although access to the mast head is necessary either by dropping the mast or by going up it In principle the existing in mast line is used to pull TWO messengers of different colours through As soon as the pair have entered the mast heel with a bit of bent wire fish the lost messenger out through its correct sheave it may be helpful to remove the sheaves to do this Then keeping 17 Slight tension on to try to stop the messengers twisting haul away until both messengers appear at the mast crane Repeat the bent wire trick and you should then have two messengers in their correct positions Reefing the Main Some of the original main roller reefing systems survive the two difficulties that do arise are loss of the reefing handle and the turning mechanism within the boom fitting becoming jam
7. known Suffice it to say that if you haven t got one you should fit one Cooking facilities were provided by a two burner alcohol cooker a gas fired cooker was an optional extra There is some discussion below about the best fuel to use in an alcohol cooker Whilst there are articles below concerning gas it has to be stressed that any work done on a gas installation should ideally be carried out or certified by a Gas Safe technician Three of the key Safety points about gas installations are e gas bottles both in use and any spare must be stored such that any escaping gas drains overboard picture is of an installation in the lazarette 4 e when not in use the gas supply must be turned off at the gas bottle e a working gas alarm should be fitted and used such as one of the Pilot models Heads A chemical toilet was the standard fitment with the option of a sea toilet Many boats now have the latter the picture shows a standard bowl Jabsco neatly fitted into the toilet area The usual problem with such arrangements is that the outlet sea cock if it is of the traditional type is either too stiff to turn or that it leaks There is detailed advice on the Blakes website paragraph 3 about correct adjustment of their valves Because they are not environmentally friendly a prohibition on the use of sea toilets in inland waterways would not be unexpected Berths Although expensive a complete reupholster is a very effecti
8. the clew of the genoa and then test the unfurling furling action keeping slight tension on the genoa sheets If the genoa won t furl completely you will need to remove the sheets and put a few more turns on the drum Engine Your engine could be an outboard or an inboard diesel or petrol sail drive or shaft drive the latter is not common It is difficult to offer any advice with such a wide range of possible motors The following pointers are largely obvious Before going afloat or leaving the mooring or pontoon ensure that e for inboard engines the cooling water inlet valve is open and that water is emerging from the exhaust when the engine is run e for outboard engines the vent screw on the top of the tank is open and that water is emerging from the tell tale tube when the engine is run e you have plenty of fuel e the propeller turns when a gear is selected Miscellaneous Before going afloat or leaving the mooring or pontoon ensure that e you have a list of all the things you should do check and do or check them e all seacocks except the engine cooling water intake are shut and that the log impeller or the log blanking cap or plug is in place any gas supply is turned off at the cylinder you have a serviceable boathook preferably two you and your crew are wearing buoyancy aids the VHF radio works you are flying your ensign and of course your LOA pennant from the starboard spreader Issue 3 Mar 2012 Section
9. 3 Hull amp Deck General Both versions have identical hulls but the superstructure differs markedly The SL is readily identified by its sharpie form with its sloping coach roof whereas the original design had a stepped coach roof This and other differences in design can be seen in the brochures for the two models Brochures Both fin and twin keel versions were built though the latter predominates Nine colours were available at extra cost but the most popular colour was white Most boats have a tendency to list to port a feature which some owners have compensated for by eg carrying an inflatable in the cockpit starboard locker or shifting a battery to the starboard Side Hull The hull itself is a very substantial one piece GRP construction with the thickness of the material approaching 25mm in the bows The join between the hull and superstructure is covered externally by a teak rubbing strake through bolted and in most cases with the screw heads recessed and plugged some have bolts whose heads are simply countersunk Internally the bond is covered by a broad teak ply strip There are very few known cases of osmosis with these hulls The skeg and the keels are both bolted on additions Rudders and Skegs are covered in Section 6 The keels are rough steel castings and are inevitably subject to rusting and pitting where the protective coating has been damaged The effects are more cosmetic than serious and treatment of
10. 4 owners have since converted to roller reefing More about this in Section 7 Repair Modifications etc Reference Library Items Colnebrook Furling Gear Damaged Mast Foot Painting the Mast Plastimo Furling Raising the Mast 1 Forum Items Anti snag Cleats Boom Droop 2 Cruising chute Block Kicking Strap Slide Mainsail Roller Reefing Handle Lowering the Mast Lowering the Mast 2 Main Sheet Traveller Main Sheet Traveller Bearings Mast Corrosion Mast Foot Sheaves Mast Heel Repair Mast Heel Repair Mast Raising 2 Mast Raising Lowering Mast Rake Mast Sheaves Raising the Mast Reefing Boom Single Line Rigging Replacement Rigging Tension Rigging Tension 2 Sagging Boom Seized Mast Step Bolt Shroud Tension What Genoa Furling System 15 Issue 3 April 2012 Section 6 Rudder amp Skeg Rudder and Tiller The basic construction of the rudder is a stainless steel frame though some frames of mild steel are known to exist encased in a GRP moulding and filled with foam Welded tangs secure the frame to the rudder stock The foot of the rudder stock sits in a pintle bolted to the skeg The geometry at the foot of the rudder is not Bt aS good The stock runs through a plain bearing on the underside of the Wi hull and through a stainless steel plate holding a replaceable nylon Pem 4 bearing at the top of the housing in the cockpit The stock also runs Bag of this is open it is above the wate
11. Green e single line systems where one line pulls down both leech and luff These systems enable reefing to be done from the cockpit The large number of blocks used in such systems necessitates the use of a winch to overcome the friction The article in the Reference Library list below Single Line Reefing describes such a system fitted to an L27 but the principles are the same e two line systems where one line is used for the leech and one for the luff Less effort is required but there are more lines in the cockpit All these systems can be installed using the existing boom by fixing blocks tracks etc Booms are available designed for slab reefing which make a much tidier and more expensive method of routing the lines along the boom Before choosing this approach be sure that the gooseneck arrangements are compatible with the existing mast and if you have a spray hood that the main Sheet will not foul the aft edge of the sprayhood One supplier is Z Spars Reefing the Genoa Most boats now sport a roller reefing genoa of some sort whether a continuous line system or single line Providing the maker s service instructions are followed these systems should give little trouble Most of the reported difficulties relate either to drums that are stiff to turn or the genoa halyard wrapping itself around the reefing foil as the reefing line is wound in or out There is much discussion about these topic in the items below Three of the b
12. L23 and 23SL Owners Manual Leisure Owners Association Issue 1 May 2012 Disclaimer All the information and advice contained in this Manual is offered in good faith but it essentially reflects the experience and views of individual members The Association cannot and does not warrant the accuracy safety or practicability of any of the material Safety Readers are urged to read and to adhere to the advice particularly in a Health and Safety context given by manufacturers concerning use of their products Copyright ALL this material is the copyright of the Leisure Owners Association and or the Authors and may not be reproduced without express written consent from the Association Table of Contents Section Page Introduction 4 Starting Out 5 Hull and Deck 8 Engines and Propulsion Systems 11 Mast and Standing Rigging 14 Rudder and Skeg 16 Sails and Running Rigging 17 Windows and Hatches 20 Cabin Interior 22 Electrics and Instruments 24 Alphabetical Index NA a ttiohdy acres 25 AMET dalla 26 27 ANTOU S E 11 AOD O eea a T TAT 28 Batteries eosto a aE O NA 26 A 27 28 Bleeding Fuel Linie erusin 13 14 BOM cdo 8 16 17 19 20 DE dette or netia ele uudetins 26 27 28 CNG shes eee EOR 11 17 Cockpit Dias 11 Deck FINN ie 11 12 Derustino Keci zerre e ocridod 11 A eee aula aia ZE 20229 Engine MalntenanCe cccccccnnncncncnnnnnnnnnnos 14 21 27 eine Mandala credits 14 28 FNC IGS cece a a NN 2 13 14
13. PLITPIN HO MAST STEP BOLT KICKING STRAP BOOM DOWNHAUL GATE FIG 1 Mainsail Insert the aft corner clew of the sail into the groove on the boom and ease the sail along the boom Shackle or lash the forward end tack to the lug on the roller reefing plate and lash the other end to the cast eye on the end of the boom Shackle the main halyard to the head of the sail Insert the head of the sail into the gate and haul the sail up feeding the sliders or boltrope into the gate as you go Make off the halyard on a cleat on the mast Insert the second split pin into the hole in the track just above the upper gate There should be a boom downhaul which is fitted between the lug on the under side of the gooseneck and the mast step bolt so that the mainsail once raised and with the lower split pin removed can be tensioned by pulling the boom down with the downhaul Fig 2 Originally the main sail was furled by inserting a cranked handle into the gooseneck fitting and turning to wind the sail around the boom The kicking strap function was provided via a large horseshoe claw which allowed the boom and sail to rotate within it If you have a claw it should be lashed to the aft end of the boom so that it lies about 3ft from the mast A downhaul should be fitted between the claw and the mast step bolt However many owners have changed to slab reefing where the sail is pulled down onto the boom and not wound round it In this case there sh
14. and Structure The purpose of this Manual is to provide a comprehensive reference for these boats including descriptions of repairs modifications etc that owners have carried out Although the two boats are considerably different in appearance this is largely because of the design of the topsides The hull rudder skeg mast rig etc are identical although the internal fit out differs slightly The Manual is structured in a series of Sections each dealing with a different aspect of the boat eg Mast amp Standing Rigging Inevitably there is a degree of overlap between sections eg in which should go methods of turning lines back to the cockpit Each Section opens with a description and pictures of the original arrangements where possible then continues with information about repair modification etc The latter material has been culled from a variety of sources and much editing particularly of the material extracted from the two old Forums has been necessary No material from the Forum opened in March 2012 is included It has been produced only in an electronic form partly because of the sheer volume of material but mostly because this approach allows for updated versions readily to be produced Individual pages can be printed as hard copies eg to take to the boat for a particular project History of the Boats Production of the original design OD Leisure 23 was started by Cobramold in about 1972 at their factory in Stansted This
15. asic guidelines in both cases above are to ensure that the e forestay is really tight Remove any sagging by tightening the back stay s e upper swivel is fairly close to the mast head sheave e genoa halyard is really tight When hoisting it initially make sure that it is surged hard 18 If none of these remedies is successful then you may need to fit a halyard diverter to improve the angle between the halyard and the mast One supplier of these devices is Plastimo whose 608 kit can be found on many 23s Plastimo page 21 There are less common causes which are the subject of forum items below Techniques Advice on tuning your rigging flying a cruising chute etc can be found below particularly in the Reference Library items One general piece of advice that can be confidently given is that it is far better to reef early than when you are being over pressed by the wind This gives you a more comfortable and safe ride and the boat will probably be faster Repair Modifications etc Reference Library Colnebrook Reefing Gear Jib Sheets Without a Shackle Overhaul Plastimo Gear Sail Maintenance Single Line Reefing Trim the Headsail Trim the Mainsail Tuning the Rigging Using a Cruising Chute Forum Items All About Lazyjacks Colnebrook Gear Problems Cruising Chute Choice Furling the Genoa Genoa Pole Length Genoa Reefing Jamming Halyard Dimensions Halyard Wrap New Mainsail New Mainsail Plastimo Gear Jamming
16. cessible through the lazarette The nuts are flo coated for protection The usual problem with the skeg is identical to that of the rudder ie the ingress of water The deterioration of the structure is sometimes sufficient to allow the skeg to move laterally Replacement skegs are available via Hurst Marine Repair Modifications etc Reference Library All About Rudders Loose Tiller Rudder Schematic Skeg Redesign this refers to the L27 but the principles are applicable to the L23 Skeg Removal Forum Rudder and Skeg Repair Skeg Bolt Weeping Rudder Rumble Skeg Drainhole Rudder Split Tiller Extension Rudder Stock Play Tiller Rot 16 Issue 4 April 2012 Section 7 Sails Running Rigging and Reefing Original Arrangements Both models were originally offered with hanked on foresails and a Barton roller reefing main Other sails slab reefing for the main and Colnebrook roller reefing for the genoa were offered as extras The main was fitted with sliders rather than a bolt rope A question frequently asked is whether the sail number indicates the age of the boat The answer is that it doesn t do so precisely because the sails made by Rockall appear to have been issued more or less at random Lazy Jacks When the main is lowered it usually flops all over the deck obscuring your view before being flaked down and tied onto the boom not convenient if you are single handed With lazy jacks fitted the sail is constrained i
17. d cranking the engine should enable the blocked section to be identified and removed for cleaning out And then bleeding the system Starting Difficulties There is a host of reasons why an engine my be sluggish to start including a faulty injector poor compression due eg to stuck piston rings and air in the system A low battery can also be the culprit because it turns the engine over too slowly If the engine hasn t fired up within about 20 secs of total cranking time then the cooling water inlet valve should be closed until the engine is running Failure to do this results in a build up of cooling water in the exhaust system which could find its way into a cylinder with expensive results Sometimes a reluctant engine can be persuaded to start with a shot of a quick start spray into the air intake but the use of this should be avoided if possible because there is apparently a real risk of serious damage to the engine An alternative not always practicable is to warm the air intake eg with a hair drier Fuel All fuel particularly diesel should be filtered as it is poured into the tank A funnel with an 11 integral filter is the usual method of doing this Fuel tanks particularly if holding diesel should be kept full This avoids the inevitable sludge at the bottom of the tank being stirred up as it would be if the fuel level was low and the sea conditions were rough And for steel tanks it also helps to avoid water conden
18. down entirely external to the mast and should be lying underneath the spreaders e main halyard emerges from the mast crane in front of the topping lift but runs down inside the mast and exits via a sheave at the foot of the mast e genoa halyard routes over the sheave on the front of the mast and exits down inside the mast and out via a sheave on the foot e thin signal halyard runs through an eye or small block on the underside of the starboard Spreader At this stage check that the radio aerial is mounted and that the masthead navigation lights work Before going on to raise the mast it is worth spraying the sail tracks on the boom mast and furling genoa foil with a dry silicone spray This considerably eases the mounting of the sails With the mast erected insert the boom gooseneck long bit downwards into the slot or gate in the mast Fig 1 with the sail track of the boom uppermost Insert the split pin which should be dangling on a piece of cord from the mast into the hole in the mast sail track below the gate and let the boom rest on it Connect the topping lift to the end of the boom to support it in a horizontal position and shackle the main sheet to the tang on the end of the boom and to the horse the slider on the rail across the companion way on the 23SL or on some 23s across the transom You are now ready for the mainsail GOOSENECK amp DOWNHAULS FIG 2 SPLITPIN HO MAST ST REEFING HOLE GOOSENECK S
19. e Oil Filler Saildrive Ratios et al Saildrive Water Contamination Saildrive110S Seal Seawater Filter Sound Insulation Water in Engine Oil Water Inlet Alternative Water Pump Leak 2 13 Issue 5 April2012 Section 5 Mast amp Standing Rigging Original Both versions were originally provided with black or gold anodised masts and booms made by SSSpars now a long time out of business A lake rig 30ft high mast was offered in place of the standard 26ft item The mast heel was originally an alloy block fitted into the bottom of the mast and which carried the sheaves over which the internal running rigging was routed The slot in the base fits over a matching upstand on the alloy deck plate All the rigging is normally in 5mm Stainless steel with three shrouds each side and a single backstay connected to two chainplates on 7 the transom by a wire bridle The upper shrouds were routed to the masthead via two alloy Spreaders The compression load of the mast and rigging is transferred to the hull via the bulkhead door frame which in turn is bedded on the hull via a large dollop of fibreglass i E E The original round boom had provision for roller reefing the main by use of a cranked handle the picture is of a DIY handle that was inserted into the gooseneck The latter fitting had an eye in a lug on the underside with a downhaul attached to it and to the bolt in the mast step so that the luff of the main
20. ed with time and now show severe cracking The LOA has sourced replacement items which are available from Hurst Marine together with 20 comprehensive instructions for the simple replacement job The pictures show the before and after situation ALIS gi APL AS A PO OIM CS gpg ge po ARRANI att ut AR RR WS 5 7 Gi RARR E NON hh Da gt PEP y PO A GEU RI yi P Fg AN NES AN ANA Hatches L23 The principal differences from the 23SL are that the main hatch does not incorporate a translucent panel and it does not slide back when open under a protective garage roof as the the hatch on the 23SL does One member built his own garage as can be seen in this picture The forehatch is a single skin grp moulding with a clear gelcoat panel in the middle to admit light There is a rubber sealing profile on the edge of the hatch which overlaps the upstandion the deck which seals it quite effectively However this is not glued in place so it can be easily torn loose Glueing it in place is the remedy The grp of the forehatch is a also bit thin which causes the hatch to deform when stepped on One member laminated an extra layer of 600 grams glass fabric to the back pictured which eliminated the problem and allowed the hatch to be walked on Repair Modifications etc Reference Library Items Forehatch Hinge Replacement 23SL Forehatch Seal L23 Hatches in Cockpit Window Replacement SL23 Window Replacement
21. el to meet their electrical control requirements and the physical space constraints Shore Power Bringing mains power aboard is a real boon It makes the installation of a cool box or fridge viable as well as enabling batteries to be brought to full charge via a battery charger Mains power and water make a dangerous potentially lethal combination and the provision of shore power MUST be done properly There is more than one article below about how to do this safely Instruments It is difficult to say much about instruments because of the vast choice now available and the differing needs of individual owners Perhaps the four units needed as a minimum for navigation are echo sounder compass and either log GPS or chart plotter and radio The question most usually asked in this context is where is the best place to site the echo sounder and or log Manufacturers instructions are clear in principle but the application of them is a different matter A convenient site for the log impeller is in the small locker under the hanging locker Any flooding when the log is removed for cleaning is neatly constrained The forward starboard locker under the seat is a frequent choice for the echo sounder Log impellers often need removal to clean accumulated weed and barnacles off the paddle wheel the need is reduced if the impeller is withdrawn after each trip There is more than one item below on log impeller problems Repair Modificatio
22. es of stanchion bases will be found the only known difficulties concern corrosion between the stanchions and bases making the former very difficult to remove The other problem relates to helpful folk grabbing the top of the stanchion as one comes alongside the considerable leverage exerted causing hairline cracks in the deck Fixings for the cleats and winches on the coaming can be accessed via the cockpit lockers or quarter berth All the deck hardware cleats tracks Samson post bow roller etc are through bolted pieces of kit and with the exception of the stanchions there have been few reported problems The picture showing a badly elongated fixing hole in the stemhead illustrates the need occasionally to inspect such items Cockpit Drains am As supplied the boats were fitted with crossed over drains without seacocks Whether the skin fittings exited the hull above or below the water line seems to have been a random decision by the fitter Much has been queried and written about these drains sometimes referred to as self bailers as will be seen in the Forum items below Repair Modifications etc Reference Library Items Cockpit Drains Modification Forehatch Sealing Grab Rail Refurbishment 1 Grab Rail Refurbishment 2 Marking the Waterline Midship Cleats Osmosis Saildrive Aperture Closing Water Leak Through Deck Forum Items Anchor Chain Contrast Stripe Antifouling Preparation Copper Antifo
23. ference Library below describes one method Batteries require maintenance particularly in terms of cleaning corrosion from the terminals and greasing them though few now need the electrolyte to be topped up Securing arrangements for these heavy items need to be robust to withstand the abrupt motion of the boat in rough water Given the propensity for all 23s to list to port placing one battery on the starboard side of the boat is a useful ploy Leisure type batteries are the most suitable for marine use since they can stand being discharged to a lower level than standard car batteries But no unit should be discharged to less than 50 of its capacity otherwise its life will be shortened A condition meter is useful in this context such as available from RS Wiring All wire used on boats both for 12 volt and mains wiring should be multi strand and not solid the latter can fracture with vibration Ideally this should be tinned copper wire and it MUST be heavy enough to carry the current of the items s it is serving otherwise it can overheat and cause a fire The table below gives an indication of different sized wires and their current carrying Capacities Sample data re current carrying capacity etc Dia of strands No strands Approx area Approx max mm mm capacity Amps 5 22203 4 1 9 0 3 44 3 5 3 7 03 ey Each piece of equipment served should be protected by an individual fuse the item below Fuse
24. lly relates to these inboard diesels The picture shows a newly installed Volvo D1 13 The vast majority of boats now have inboard diesel engines a few of Overheating This is probably one of the most frequent problems that arises frequently signalled by the overheat alarm sounding or steam issuing from the exhaust The causes are many and varied but two of the more obvious and easy ones to check are a blocked water inlet eg by a plastic bag or an impeller failure Yanmar engines suffered particularly from the latter A quick look at the exhaust outlet will tell if cooling water is being ejected or not Other causes are more difficult to diagnose and cure as will be seen in the items below Mismatch between engine and propeller is one of the less obvious reasons some indication of this is given if the exhaust smoke is black when the engine is more or less flat out Engine Failure One of the more worrying problems The most usual reason for this is either a blocked fuel line or air in the fuel line Guidance on bleeding air from the system can be found in the Reference Library items below A suspected blockage in the system or rarely a failed pump can be checked by loosening the fuel feed at the injector s and cranking the engine with the throttle wide open If there is no seepage of fuel a piece of kitchen towel is an excellent tell tale then there is a blockage Working back through the pipework loosening one joint at a time an
25. med Replacement handles are available from many chandlers eg Marinestore but at around 40 But when one considers that the handle receptacle is simply a square hole in the turning mechanism other solutions come to mind such as getting a local metal workshop to make simple one The picture shows a DIY handle There is no easy solution to the jammed mechanism problem except WD40 New replacements are not available and members have reported considerable difficulties when trying to dismantle the fitting If your mechanism has jammed perhaps this is an opportune time to convert to slab reefing which enables a better set to the sail when reefed and can provide for the reefing to be done from the cockpit All slab reefing systems require the main to have reefing cringles in the leech and luff Four cringles would provide two stages of reefing which should be ample Although these appear to be simple eyelets do not be tempted to do it yourself there are considerable stresses on the sail when reefed and the sail has to be heavily reinforced around the cringles There are many forms of slab reefing both commercial and DIY Broadly they can be classified into three types e single line systems where one line is used to pull down the leech the luff cringle being clipped over a hook affixed to the gooseneck you have to go the mast with this method Barton makes such a system at a cost of about 90 excluding the lines One supplier is Jimmy
26. model was replaced by the 23SL with its characteristic sharpie look in about 1978 still being manufactured by Cobramold But by the early 1980s production had passed into the hands of Brinecraft at their Brightlingsea facility and they changed the colour of the below decks mouldings from brown to white thus providing a ready means of identifying the builder of any one boat Production continued until around 1986 7 when a major fire brought things to a halt A few boats were subsequently produced in Germany but effectively Leisure yachts were no longer being made The moulds are believed now to be in Poland Specifications The original brochure for both boats can be found on our main website L23 and SL23 Most boats were built as twin keel versions but some were fin keeled Acknowledgements This manual has not been produced by the Association It is a compendium of some factual information but it primarily reflects the advice and experience of individual members who have taken the time over the years to commit these to paper We are extremely grateful to these folk Most of the material has been extracted from the Forum on the old website and from the Forum and the Library on the new site If YOU have something which YOU could contribute then please send this to the me for inclusion in the Reference Library Barri Hopkins Editor Issue 3 April 2012 Section 2 Starting Out Introduction So you have bought you
27. ns etc Reference Library 12 Volt Socket Installation Shore Power Basic Electrics Split Charging System Battery and Alternator Management Split Charging System 2 Battery Maintenance Twin Battery Installation Charging From Outboard VHF Basics Fuses Wiring Diagram Private Mobile Radio 25 Manuals Stingray Echosounder Stowe Dataline Forum Autohelm Repair Autopilot Wiring Ammeter for Outboard Battery Charging from Outboard Battery Location Battery Type Car Radio Installation Deck Glands Deck Glands 2 DSC VHF Echosounder Problems Echosounder Problems 1 Echosounder Problems 2 External Speaker GPS Power Supply Handheld VHFs Instrument Locations LED Lighting LED Switches Other Shore Power 2 Log Problems Log Problems NASA Echosounder Problems NASA Log Problems NASA Log Problems 2 NASA Log Problems 3 Portable Generators Shore Power Shore Power 2 Solar Panels Solar Panels 2 Solar Panels Cheap Switch Panel Switch Panel 2 Transducer and Log Locations Transducers and AIS VHF Aerial Problems Wind Generators and Solar Panels Wind Instrument END 26
28. nto a heap on top of the boom and can be tidied away at leisure Many owners also go the next step and fit some form of stackaway pack where the sail cover is permanently fitted to the boom The only downside to fitting lazy jacks is that when raising the sail the boat has to be dead to wind otherwise there is a risk of the battens getting caught outside the lines Running Rigging As supplied the halyards were 3 8 diameter braid on braid and the topping lift 1 4 Many owners opt for 6mm for the topping lift and genoa furling line 8mm for halyards and kicking strap and 10 or 12mm for the main and genoa sheets There are no standard lengths of the various lines this depends on how the lines are routed and cleated off on the individual boat The rigging diagram is at Rigging Diagram For safety and convenience reasons many MN boats have their control lines led back to the AA cockpit via various turning arrangements of blocks and via clutches or jammers on the coach roof The picture shows one such arrangement Note also in the other picture that there is no downhaul on this gooseneck it is fixed rigidly to the upper mast step bolt by a metal strap 15mm stainless tubing flattened at the ends the luff of the main being hauled tight by the main halyard i All lines should be removed from the boat during the winter and inspected for wear This can be done easily if a lightweight say 2 or 3mm messenger is pulled through on the
29. ould be a fitting underneath the boom so that a kicking strap with its own jamming block can be connected between it and the mast step Fig 2 Foresail As originally supplied both models had a forestay onto which the genoa was simply clipped by piston hanks Many owners have since converted to furling genoas where the sail is wound onto a foil which rotates around the forestay There are many different models in existence but the principles are the same Before hoisting the genoa on a calm day check that the forestay is tight if it is slack problems will occur Shackle the halyard to the top mounting of the top swivel of the furling kit feed the head of the genoa into the sail track and shackle it to the lower mounting of the top swivel Haul on the genoa halyard whilst a second pair of hand feeds the sail When fully hoisted Shackle the foot of the sail to the mounting on the lower drum Apply as much tension as possible to the halyard and make it off on a cleat on the mast The next task is to get the reefing line assuming it is a single line wound onto the drum Roll the genoa around the foil by twisting the foil so that the sail is wound as tightly as possible with the UV strip on the outside of the bundle Put a tie around it Connect the reefing line to the drum and twist the bundle to put lots of turns on the drum Some careful thinking is required to determine the correct direction of twist Connect the genoa sheets to
30. r Leisure 23 and are now looking at the boat with its sails off its mast down bits of rope and wire all over the place desperately trying to remember what the previous owner told you Hopefully the information below will be helpful It must be said however that many owners have modified their boats and the following guidance relates to a standard 23 if one exists Also there are slight differences in the mast and rigging between the 23 and 23SL y Safety The first and essential step is to ensure that the boat is safe to work on If she is standing on the ground then chock up the skeg so that she cannot tip backwards Similarly another piece of wood jammed between the forward end of the hull and the ground will stop her rocking forward If the boat is on a trailer ensure that she is firmly lashed to the trailer both fore and aft Either couple the trailer to the car or chock up the rear of the trailer so that it cannot tip backwards Mast and Rigging Diagrams for the 23SL and 23 can be found at Rigging Diagram 23SL and Rigging Diagram L23_ The mast can be raised by two people although a third pair of hands is always useful to clear the inevitable snagging of a wire or rope it is much safer to let the yard or sailing club staff raise the mast with a crane Guidance on raising and lowering the mast is contained in Section 5 Mast and Standing Rigging First the mast must be properly orientated and the running rigging
31. rators Manual Bleeding MD5A 2000 Workshop Manual Bleeding MD7A 2010 Operators Manual Fuel Sight Gauge 2010 Workshop Manual Installing 110S Saildrive MB2 50S Installation Manual Installing 110S Saildrive MB2 50S Operators Manual Lubricants MB2A 50S Workshop Manual MB2 Notes MD5A Saildrive110s Brochure MB2 Tips MD6A 7A Workshop Manual MD5 Seawater Pump MD7A Operators Manual MD7A Rebuild Petter 6 AB1W Operators Manual MDA B C Parts List Petter AC1WM Operators Manual Propeller Calculation Propking xls Propeller Calculation xls Propellers Choosing _ Seal Replacement 110S Seal Replacement 1205 Volvo Folding Prop Maintenance Water Inlet Modification 12 Forum Items Alarm Buzzer Failure Anode for Saildrive Barnacles on Prop Decoke or Not Exhaust Hose Replacement Exhaust Muffler Exhaust Problems Fuel Line Pressurization Head Gasket Leak Inboard What Size MB2 50S Fuel Pump MB2 Spares MB2A 50S Seacock MB5 50S Removal MB5A Removal MD5A Water Pump problem MD5A 2001 Overheating MD72010 Control Panel Problems MD7A Oil Leak MD7A Oil Leak 2 MD7A Overheating Overheating Overheating Alarm Amplifying Painting the Engine Petter 6 Mountings Prop Bearing Housing Corrosion Prop Blade Loss Prop Cone Removal Prop Corrosion Prop Damage Prop Size Prop Sizing Prop Suppliers Replacement Engine Replacement Engine 2 Replacement Engine 3 Rope Cutters Saildrive Anode Saildrive Leaking Oil Saildriv
32. re is an alloy trim with a thin silicone sealing to the cabin side Internally a wood trim surrounds the window with the nut of the nut and bolt This fixing is an inter screw with unlike the picture a countersunk screw where the nut is a blind screw with the shank threaded on the inside When refitting the screws into the aluminium frame the hole should be covered with a thin layer of silicone to avoid contact corrosion and leaks The main problems with this form of construction are leaks which can cause the interior wooden surrounds to rot The only solution is to fabricate new trims The old trims should be removed carefully to serve as templates for the new ones Hatches 23SL There are two hatches excluding the anchor locker lid the main and the forehatch The main hatch is a double sided moulding which slides on two troughs in the garage roof and is retained in place by two teak mouldings It is easily removed for cleaning or repair e Remove the few pan headed screws securing the garage top to the deck and lift it away e Remove the countersunk screws securing the two teak mouldings each side of the hatch and carefully prise away there should be sealant at least around the screw holes e Lift the hatch away Replacement hatches are available from LOA suppliers Hurst Marine The fore hatch is also a double sided moulding which is secured to the deck by two rubber hinges Many of these hinges have deteriorat
33. re to soften and then be crushed as attempts are made to tighten the loose fittings There have also been one or two cases where delamination has occurred on the side decks ingress of water through cracks causing the upper deck skin to bubble up The cockpit floor is 20mm solid grp Cockpit The two models have slightly differently shaped cockpits but the basic construction is the same Both the starboard side and lazarette locker lids are of a relatively light construction and are prone to show signs of wear particularly in the fixing of the hinges to the hull Replacement locker lids are not currently available but should you need one Hurst Marine Hurst Marine are usually ready to consider the case for new mouldings Deck Fittings The standard boat was supplied fitted with only two jib sheet winches but most owners have Since fitted additional winches turning blocks clutches etc on the coach roof Stanchions were an optional extra Any new fittings should be provided with a substantial marine ply backing plate and penny washers There should be no need to dig out the balsa core unless this has collapsed All the fixings for the coach roof fittings can be accessed from within the cabin but the teak ply ceiling has to be removed see Section 8 Cabin Interior Those on the side decks and bridge deck mainly sheet tracks and stanchion bases can be accessed from within the cabin by removing the teak ply cover panels Different typ
34. rline thus effectively sealing the lazarette from water ingress The tiller pivots vertically in an alloy tiller head casting which is internally tapered to fit the taper on the rudder stock The head casting is held either by a screw into the rudder stock or by a nut on the threaded end of the stock There is also a grub screw through the side of the casting which locates in an indentation in the rudder stock If the GRP moulding becomes damaged by accident or repeated heavy grounding it can lose its integrity allowing water to ingress If the internal structure is of mild steel then this rusts and the fault in the GRP becomes more pronounced Repair of this critical item is sometimes possible if this is not practicable replacement units are available through the Association s approved Supplier Hurst Marine Hurst Marine though not from stock The original tiller was shaped from a solid piece of hardwood Replacements which are available from Hurst Marine are now made from laminated strip wood The head casting was originally a cast alloy fitting which is easily fractured either when trying to remove it or by over tightening the bolt through the jaws in an attempt to eliminate slackness when the tiller pivots The modern equivalent also available from Hurst Marine is machined from solid stainless steel Skeg The construction is similar to that of the rudder The whole unit is bolted to the hull via studs the nuts of which are ac
35. rusty keels is the subject of a few items below They are affixed to the hull by stainless studs whose stainless nut are accessible below the cabin sole but are covered with a thick coating of flo coat No problems are known to have arisen from this method of securing the keels The issue of antifouling would fill a manual in its own right particularly the question of which product to use Its largely a question of you pays your money and takes your choice There are however a few basic guidelines e make good any significant damage with an epoxy filler e lightly abrade the existing coating with WET abrasive paper Doing it with dry paper produces toxic dust e do not use hand or power wire brushes to remove rust This action polishes the metal e check that your intended antifouling is compatible with the existing coating If you are unsure put a tie coat on first e apply the antifoul generously Deck and Coach Roof The two GRP skins of the roof enclose a balsa core these skins merge at the edges of the roof to form solid GRP walls of irregular thickness in which the windows are fitted The side decks also incorporate a balsa core All the cockpit benches walls bulkheads etc are single skin GRP There are moulded in non slip areas in the gelcoat and winch pads on the coach roof and coaming Few problems are known to have arisen with this form of construction except where water leaks around fittings have caused the balsa co
36. s covers this topic in depth The weakest points of any electrical circuit are usually the connections and particularly so in a marine environment Deck connectors are very susceptible to corrosion and difficult to clean On one 23SL all the mast cables are routed through deck glands and are connected inside the boat in the ceiling recess in the forepeak as pictured below 24 The best form of connection is undoubtedly a soldered joint but this is not always practicable Switches and fuse holders often are constructed with spade type A terminals The double skinned construction of the superstructure does provide scope to run wires between the two skins any holes cut in the inner grp ceiling skin to facilitate threading being covered by the teak ply panel Lighting The original saloon filament lighting provided warm if somewhat dim illumination in the cabin but could draw several amps Many owners have now opted for LED lighting which draws miniscule amounts of current at the price of much brighter and harsher illumination There is also movement towards LED navigation lights expensive Replacement LED bulbs and fittings for both interior and navigation lights are available from firms such as E C Smith Switch Panels The original panel only provided for four circuits far fewer than needed amp today Many owners have fitted commercial panels but many others have gone down the diy route tailoring the design of the pan
37. sail could be hauled tight once the main had been raised Two split pins inserted into the sail track provided resting stops for the boom and for the sail when lowered Many owners have dispensed with this roller reefing in favour of slab reefing which provides a better set to the sail when reefed It is also possible to reef without the need to leave the cockpit as is described in the Section 7 Sails Running Rigging and Reefing On some boats the kicking strap function to prevent the boom rising was provided by a roller reefing claw a horseshoe with internal rollers which allowed the boom and rolled sail to rotate within it This was lashed to the aft end of the boom so that it lay a roughly 1 3 of the boom length from the mast A downhaul was fitted between the claw and the bolt in the mast step Many boats now sport different masts and booms because of mast breakage or damage Some have suffered damage to the alloy mast heel and deck plate both of which are quite brittle and are easily damaged if for example the mast slews sideways when being raised or lowered Ways of making good such damage are included in this Section The mainsheet runs on a RWO track through bolted through the companionway The car is locked in place by two spring loaded plungers Replacement parts are still available for this kit from some chandlers Foresail roller reefing was not supplied originally sails were simply hanked on but many 1
38. sation within the tank and the consequent risk of breeding the dreaded diesel bug though less seems to be heard of it these days Some members are advocates of adding a cleaning additive to the fuel such as Diesel Redex This product is claimed to help free sticky piston rings and at least one member reports positive results Some members also prefer to use white road diesel Maintenance All engines require regular and proper maintenance as specified in the relevant owners handbook Before the engine is finally put to bed for the winter the cooling system should be flushed first with fresh water and then with a strong solution of anti freeze The oil and the oil filter also should be changed before the boat is laid up and the oil should be changed again mid season if the engine has had considerable use The primary fuel filter sometimes called the water separator should be changed at the beginning of each season Repair Modifications etc Outboard Engines Reference Library Items Outboard Tiller Outboard Emergency Engine Outboard Steering Device Outboard Overheating Impeller Change 4HP Mariner Outboard Remote Control Outboard Replacement Forum Items Outboard What Size 2 Emergency Outboard Bracket Replacement Outboard Outboard Air In Fuel Line Reversing With Outboard Yamaha Outboard Problems Inboard Engines Saildrives and Propellers Manuals 110S Saildrive Workshop Manual Other Reference Library Items 2000 Ope
39. uling Cockpit Drains Displacement Cockpit Drains Derusting Keels Cockpit Drains and Cowls Dodgers Cockpit Locker Hinges Extra Keel 9 Extra Stanchion Forehatch Seal Guardwire Replacement Hatches in Cockpit Jackstays Keel Hull Joint Keel Preparation Keel Spacing Lazarette Locker Lid Deformed Lazarette Rainwater Leaking Deck Fittings Lines Back to Cockpit List to Port List to Port Main Hatch Removal Mast Lowering Osmosis Paint Removal Polishing the Hull Rust Spots Rust Spots on Gelcoat Rusty Keels Seacock Servicing Self bailing Cockpit Sprayhood Stemhead Removal Surveys Surveys and Keel Bolts Washboard Dimensions Winch Replacement 2 Winches 1 Winches Coachroof Mounting 10 Issue 4 April2012 Section 4 Engines and Propulsion Systems Original Arrangements Both boats were originally offered with a fitted outboard bracket as standard with a choice of petrol or diesel saildrive engines as optional extras Engines from Vire Petter and Volvo were offered mostly about 7 5hp Many of these of these original engines have survived despite their age but many have been replaced by more powerful units If a purchaser opted for an inboard engine a small fuel tank of about 20 litres capacity was fitted in the lazarette with the filler A situated in the top of the transom coaming gt Volvo D1 13 gt Es gt these being shaft driven and the information below essentia
40. ve way of enhancing the appearance of the boat below decks as well as providing an increased level of comfort Costs vary considerably depending heavily upon the choice of covering material circa 2 000 should not be unexpected for new covers and foam It is generally true to say that it is false economy to re cover the old foam this will undoubtedly will have lost its elasticity and its shape and it will not meet current fire prevention standards 22 Storage One of this model s particular strengths in that it has a large volume of storage below decks The one drawback is that the deep lockers do not make for convenient use Adding shelving such as shown in the pictures makes life that bit easier Table Area Some owners do not like the table arrangement in that it obtrudes into the gangway and does not provide a comfortable lounging facility particularly because of the relatively low clearance under the side deck There are one or two modification items below as well as a method of better utilising the shallow and deep void under the table top Repair Modifications etc Reference Library Berth Extension Chart Storage Cleaning Teak Woodwork Cleaning Teak Woodwork 2 Forecabin Storage 1 Forecabin Storage 2 Seacock Replacement Table Area Upholstery for a 27 but the principles apply to a 23 Other Pumped Water Forum Items Alcohol v Gas Cookers Spirit vs Gas Charcoal Heater Table Modification Cupboard
Download Pdf Manuals
Related Search