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Bernina Record 930 Electronic User's Manual

1. Teu un Ai nn Seams with Practical Stitches The choice of type of seam depends entirely on the article The choice of practical stitch on the material used We distinguish between three types of seam Open seams are seams which are pressed open they lie flat and do not roll they allow the garment to be let out Range of application dresses pants skirts jackets coats etc Overlock seams are seams which are sewn and overcast in one operation they are quickly made they are narrow but do not allow the garment to be let out Range of application particularly knitted fabrics for sweaters jackets jer sey blouses linen hand and machine knitted gar ments Flat joining seams are seams where the cut edges are lapped and then sewn over 20 they lie flat they are narrow and cannot be let out they do not roll up edges are neat Range of application beachwear leisure wear foundation garments home dressmaking ar ticles Triple straightstitch seam open seam Presser foot 560 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 90 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever 0 Stitch width 0 Stitch length _ 2 3 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark mE Zig zag Seam open seam Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever
2. For difficult work par ticularly with thin ma terials it is preferable to stop and guide it a little at a time rather than let work slide beneath the hand When removing the sew ing raise the presser foot remove the material to the rear left and pull both threads through the thread cutter The threads are released automatically when sew ing begins again Sewing of edges over casting top stitching edge finishing sewing on lace etc are more suc cessful if guided on the edge Fig 3 11 Straight Stitch Green stitch O Presser foot 000 Thread to suit material Needle to suit the thread see Needle and thread table page 10 Stitch selector lever 0 selection changeover lever O Stitch width 0 Needle position centre Buttonhole 0 Stitch length 1 4 as required normal stitch length is 1 Feed dog sewing Colour mark e Q 12 Forwards sewing With the settings speci fied the machine sews forwards with the stitch length selected The stitch length is selected according to the sewing work and material to be sewn Reverse sewing Move and hold stitch length knob upwards above O until reverse sewing is completed When the knob is releas ed the machine sews forwards again with the previously selected stitch length Five needle positions The position of the stitch can be set at five pos itions right or left with the knob for settin
3. Seam error Machine only runs slowly or not at all 47 Stowing in carrying case Correct position in case Important Subject to BEAB and OSHA safety regu lations official testing centres in Great Britain and the U S A The following safety regulations must be observed without fail The moving needle is a source of danger risk of injury to fingers The sewing position must therefore be kept under constant observation Manipulations within the area of movement of the needle such as changing the needle the presser foot or stitch plate must only be perform ed with the machine switched off main switch set to position The same applies when removing and re placing the lower thread bobbin or hook During maintenance work cleaning or lubricating or changing the light bulb and interruptions in sewing or after completion of work the machine must be disconnected from the power supply by pulling out the mains plug Repairs to the electronic section only be carried out by one of our service agencies Page Page Page Page Accessories box 8 Forwards sewing 12 Parallel sewing of patterns 42 Long automatic 23 Applications Green stitches 17 Gathering 36 Pattern indication 40 Running 29 Red stitches 16 Gathering stitch 17 Patching with honeycomb stitch 29 Satin 13 Appliqu 38 39 Gimp cord buttonholes 26 27 with jersey stitch 28 Selecting red 14 Automatic long sti
4. fied if both hands can be used for guiding the work The presser foot lifter is used for raising and low ering the presser foot with the right knee leaving the hands free Attaching the presser foot lifter The presser foot lifter is contained in the carrying case The opening for the presser foot lifter is locat ed at the right on the front in the base plate below the lower knob e Insert presser foot lifter so that it hangs to the left Fig 1 If the presser foot lifter is moved to the right the presser foot is raised It should be possible to op erate the presser foot lif ter comfortably with the right knee without alter ing your customary sit ting position If the angle of the presser foot lifter provided is in convenient it can be ad justed Your Bernina dealer will gladly make this adjust ment for you 8 When the presser foot lifter is pressed to the right the foot is raised at the same time the feed dog will be lowered The next stitch will return the feed dog to sewing posi tion The sewing table is used to enlarge the working surface It should be used for all sewing for which the free arm is not required Attaching the sewing table Slide the table in over the free arm until the center pins slip into the corre sponding openings By pushing hard in the di rection of the arrow the table can be fixed to the pins with its holding de vice Removing sewing table The
5. Fig 5 thread is cut through several times on the back How to tack the corners Fig 6 and the darts Fig 7 Gathering Gathering with cord Normal gathering Gathering with elastic thread Long pieces of material ee A SD Presser foot 452 Use presser foot 000 Presser foot _45 _______ Thread sewing thread Small pieces or very thin Thread _sevving thread Needle 80 fabrics can be gathered 68 Stitch selection selector lever 6 as follows Stitch selection selector lever e ENN GICOVE NEVE PEN dE changeover lever 1 20 SR width Sm wid 1 ever Stitch length 4 Stitch length 1 2 Needle position centre Needle position E Feed dog sewin Doorn EE Colum 9 gy two parallel lines of lu ew two parallel lines o e pr ial pi Both gathering rows can Lower presser foot Lift Straight or Then bids is ia a ew a trial piece be sewn in one operation thread loop from presser hold the two lower sameas with cord ex Procedure foot Fig 1 and pull threads and gather the cept that the elastic Check whether needle thread forwards until the material to the desired thread is pulled tight comes to the centre of ends of the thread only width during sewin Yn 8 g The presser foot Place ma project about 10 cm at amount it is pulled de terial wrong side up un rear Then sew The pends on the desired der th
6. 2 2 3 fs Oo i O NO u 1 NJ N Sewing the buttonhole Place the material under the foot so that the edge of the material lies in front of the presser foot Fig 4 Move needle down with the hand x ust N wheel and check whether it is at the centre of the presser foot If not oper ate needle stop once Position work beneath foot and place needle exactly at start of the buttonhole Lower presser foot and sew buttonhole to e C NO pues ROMINA ise DEL im AUN AINT baw Reset knob to 1 for further buttonholes Con tinue sewing as described Knob to 1 above Machine sews first bead Set knob to 0 for all other forwards sewing work Knob to 2 Machine sews bar tack Cutting open button hole It is best to cut from both ends of the buttonhole to the centre Fig 5 This avoids cutting through a bar tack Knob to 3 Machine sews second bead backwards Knob to 4 Machine sews bar tack Knob to 5 Machine does securing stitches Corded buttonholes The gimp cord strengthens the button hole The gimp cord is particu larly important in all knit ted materials both hand and machine knitted to ensure that the button hole does not pull out of shape The thickness of the cord depends on the material to be sewn The following are suitable beading thread No 8 buttonhole
7. Embroidering terry cloth VAM blind stitch foot blind hemming edge stitching Embroidery foot decorative stitches straight stitch sewing satin stitches in thick hard materials appliqu oversewing and over thick seams beading cord couching on woollen thread Overlock foot red stitches Overcasting seams Needle and Thread Special Needles Please note Your Bernina is provided with Needle System 130 705H Make sure when purchasing new needles that you receive needles of the 130 705H sys tem The needle size to be used depends on the thread selected the needle must match the thread The adjoining table indi cates which needle is suitable for which thread Needle 70 80 110 120 parring ead EM D Embroidery thread No 30 ELER Sewing thread Mercerised cotton 10 Sewing thread synthetic Sewing thread coarse Mercerised cotton synthetic Buttonhole thread for decorative seams cordonnet Needle sizes no 70 to no 120 are usual in the trade The finer the needle the lower the number It is the opposite for the thread The finer the thread the higher the number The thread lies in the long groove of the needle during sewing If the needle is too fine there is no room for the thread in the groove The result is faulty stitches Special needles make it easier to sew difficult materials Ball point needles help to prevent damage to knitted
8. Stitch length V5 approx Sew straight stitch on the piece The straight stitch a inside edge along the makes it easier to cut out mS b a honeycomb stitch then cut out the damaged Darning Principle of side of the hole work up Darning technique and down gradually darning across the hole towards There are various meth The feed dog must be lowered for darning to ensure that the material will not be moved by the feed dog The material is run at right angle to the Presser foot 285 moved to and fro by first rows Still working up Thread garni thread hand It is important to and down fill in any gaps Sah D 5 guide evenly when darn ing and this requires a the right Finish with needle in work on the right and pivot the work 90 degrees Sew second Suitable method of in the hand Fig 1 This ods of darning The following is one which can be learnt easily changeover lever O Bete i Tt rta me a gt o UE gt pro UE us Py y keene g e 4 pex gt Ses oir bes aed holding ring the 4 outer i APR little practice fingens held ib fairy Stitch wah CRDI i i titen length DUIS Seale Vari E at Recommendation tightly to keep it securely i NS 1 i du y m eS Use a darning ring if possi
9. Try using the presser foot with sliding rollers or Teflon base Automatic Long Stitch Basting Device pockets it is first basted with darning thread Use The switch for automatic long stitch has 3 positions Basting device Presser foot 000 D Automatic long stitch and basting device are vem niei Thread sewing thr basting thr disconnected Machine sews normally the sewing line on the ceu DN back and is easily remov c RUD MG ST gt 8S Automatic long stitch is switched on ed at the end peee M GE E angeover lever Stitch length 15 4 S Basting device is switched on Needle position all positions Feed dog sewin Colour mark Automatic long stitch Penetrate needle switch on automatic long stitch device With the auto every alternate stitch Longest stitch 8 mm The long stitches can be With the basting device matic long stitch switched sewn at all 5 needle po switched on the machine on the machine sews sitions sews every Othitch Presser foot 000 This produces long bast Thread sennae ing stitches longest stitch Needle 80 2 4 cm Select desired basting stitch length with the normal stitch length control The basting Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 0 s Stitch length 2 4 stitches can be sewn in Needle position all positions all needle positions To secure beginning of seam sew several stitches then
10. be more easily Sa SS eee Sea i s basting device stitch exactly to the edge of removed than the much length approx 1 trim Cut off surplus thicker and shorter fibre basting thread 4 Press seams immedi ately after sewing This simplifies subsequent work considerably 5 Sew a sample to test the stretchiness of the stitch The chosen stitch should be as elastic as the material since the material on back Rib trim with overlock seam For all kinds of jersey elasticity of modern tex Presser foot 1 470 tiles varies considerably Thread sewing thread the basic settings of the Needle 80 practical stitches can be Stitch selection selector lever 7 altered if necessary changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 approx For highly elastic ma Needle position right terials try making the Feed dog sewin stitch length slightly Colour mark amp shorter and stitch width E slightly wider This pro Press cut strip in half edge of neckline Guide vides the seam with more lengthwise Pin to neck cut edge along pin of thread and it is made line on right side cut overlock foot when more elastic edges of trim level with sewing 18 Hems with Practical Stitches Visible hem with jersey stitch Elastic visible hem for cotton jersey fine wool synthetics and blended fibres Pyjamas T shirts lin gerie sports underwear In general baste hem mark de sired
11. e Replace front cover Prevention of Faults a If the sewing machine does not sew satisfac torily it is usually due to incorrect operation Check whether upper and lower threads are correctly threaded the needle is correctly fitted flat side of shank at rear the needle size is cor rect see Needle and Thread table page 10 the machine is clean remove free arm cover brush out remnants of thread the hook race is clean and oiled remnants of thread are trapped between the thread tension discs and beneath the bob bin case spring the buttonhole knob is set to O 46 Upper thread breaks upper thread tension too tight poor quality needles preferably buy needles from a Bernina dealer needle fitted incorrect ly flat side of shank must be at rear needle blunt or bent poor quality thread knotted thread thread dried out due to pro longed storage Needle plate or hook tip damaged take to Bernina dealer Lower thread breaks lower thread tension too tight bobbin jams in bobbin case replace bobbin hole in stitch plate damaged by needle must be polished by expert needle blunt or bent Faulty stitches wrong needles use only needle system 130 705 wrong size needle for thread being used needle blunt or bent not fitted correctly push right up when inserting poor quality roughly p
12. fabric System 130 705 H SES fine round tip for fine knitted fabrics particularly synthet ics System 130 705 H SUK medium round tip for medi um to coarse knitted fabric particularly synthetics System 130 705 H S stretch only Nm901 specially for elastic synth knitted fabrics Jeans needles penetract easier through hard fabrics System 130 705 H J slender tipped form for jeans fabrics and other compact hard fabrics Leather needles penetrate leather more easily System 130 705 H LR cutting tip for hard leather particularly Some Sewing Tips Sewing is made much easier if the correct sitting position is adopted and the work is guided prop erly Some advice Place your Bernina far enough in from the edge of the table so that the attached presser foot lifter hangs just in front of the table edge Sit right in front of the needle i e in front of the work area and not at the centre of the machine This will enable you to watch the working area more closely without strain Ensure that the height of your seat permits comfortable working Sitting too low or too high makes the work more tiring Guiding from the front is not satisfactory since the material can be involun tarily held back Fig 1 Nor should the material be pulled from behind the presser foot It is best to guide the material from the side with the fingers of the left hand close to the presser foot Fig 2
13. lever 9 20 hardly be noticeable changeover lever 1 20 spread over the 6 pat Stitch width 4 terns Fig 3 Stitch length almost 0 4 approx Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark e When sewing towards a pre determined corner you do not know before hand whether the pattern will end exactly in the corner To ensure that the pattern ends at the corner the following calculation can be made 1 Sew a test piece on a remnamt of the same material at least 6 pat terns place paper under neath Fig 1 2 Lay this test on the previously determined corner and mark on to the material the end stitch of at least 6 pat terns Fig 2 3 When sewing towards the corner stop at least 6 patterns away You can now tell whether the pat terns will fit exactly or whether you will have to adjust the length of each slightly by pushing or 5 Sewing and calculating curves Presser foot 030 Thread embroidery thread No 30 Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 9 20 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length almost O Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark 1 Sewing curves 2 Calculation of circles A curved line can be di and closed figures vided into short straight If a closed circle up to sections It is therefore 2V cm dia or closed possible to sew along the shape must be sewn the curve of a decorative pattern has
14. right hand until the needle and take up lever are again in their highest position In this case the upper thread must be held in the left h nd For certain types of sew ing e g darning the material should not be moved by the feed For this purpose the feed dog must be lowered by turning the outside bot tom circular knob to the right until the mark is below the jj symbol Fig 2 For all normal sewing work the mark must be on the left below the 51 symbol One of the most important Bernina advantages is that the thread tension does not have to be alter ed for normal sewing The normal tension is set when the red line on the scale is at the middle of the window Fig 3 MU Ua X B For special sewing e g for sewing tailor tacks the thread tension can be ad justed with the adjusting wheel Turning this wheel backwards towards the sign produces a tighter upper thread ten sion The figures 7 5 and 10 appear in the window Turning the adjusting wheel forwards towards the sign produces a looser upper thread ten sion The figures 2 5 and O appear in the window Fig 4 Do not forget reset thread tension to normal red line in the middle when a special piece of sewing requiring tension alteration has been com pleted Presser Foot Lifter Sewing Table Accessories Box Many sewing operations are considerably simpli
15. sew a suf ficient number of parallel rows to cover Overlap ping each row slightly a dti M Patching with honeycomb stitch For outer wear and children s jeans Presser foot 560 Thread darning thread Needle 80 Needle position centre 80 9085 5 1st operation Switch on basting device Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever 0 Stitch width 0 Stitch length 1 approx Do not cut out damaged baste along edge with n y a HIROA WE Yn vele tic nan s my PX 4 BN ENE 3 de rita HER 1 wk n NES NI 5 y doma oss M au yo un rf Dd DORR BD OR ab EN FEEDS PA ONIES tom D eset et es d ERUNT N 1 334p L places Pin replacement small stitches in darning i mp E uen i piece on right side and thread uv qos 2nd operation RON A Switch off basting device X pants Stitch selection selector lever 1 ur e LOIRE _ changeover lever 1 20 NS Um iv Stitch width 4 T e a RIERS Stitch length 2 VQ Oversew edges with replacement piece and um CER j ue uen s honeycomb stitch Ensure that the needle pierces us vce a mn t E that the honeycomb exactly beside the edge of pane 200 P ih le stitch seam lies the replacement piece Qm PUR j nt i completely on the n on EN 3rd operation d CM Stitch selection selector lever 0 ul s mh AS changeover lever O DE US Stitch width 0 S Wi
16. silk jerseys helanca and cotton and woollen jerseys O Gathering stitch For most types of material Edgings for table cloths serviettes collars cuffs etc P Darning with run ning stitch mending material reinforcing edges Gathering with cord joining seam cut edges pressed over and pushed together Highly elastic overlock seam and highly elastic hem particularly for sports underwear pyjamas T shirts sweaters track suits etc etc Sewing Knitted Fabrics e g jersey Rib trim with decorative seam Particularly for cotton jersey Pyjamas T shirts The following generally sports underwear lingerie applies when sewing knitted materials Presser 1006880 amp 1 Use a perfect needle Thread sewing thread Even a slightly blunt Needle 80 needle damages the knit Stitch selection selector lever 1 and holes appear after a changeover lever 1 20 short time Stitch width 4 2 Use fine sewing Stitch length 2 thread particularly for Needle position centre the fine jerseys Coarse Feed dog sewin thread can also damage Colour mark the knit 3 Use darning thread Press cut strip in half Then sew on with honey for basting Darning 3 d om lengthways Pin or baste comb stitch Guide work thread when sewn over 3s ponet ccu AEE E d 3 S ee on right side of neckline so that needle stitches can
17. table can be released from its holding device by pulling it hard to the left away from the machine The accessories are clear ly accommodated in the flat accessories box A summary of the most im portant basic settings of your sewing machine can be found inside the cover Presser Foot j Presser feet are an important aid to sewing They are provided with grooves and guides The success or failure of a piece of sewing therefore also depends on the correct choice of presser foot The presser feet are not therefore only suitable for a specific operation They are also used for simplifying any other work For example the buttonhole foot j Buttonhole main application Gathering further application Several presser feet look very similar at first glance They are provided with numbers to avoid confusion The presser feet illustrated on this page are the standard accessories supplied to most countries In other countries with varying Sewing practices the range of presser feet may be different Additional presser feet can be obtained for more specialised sewing work Ask your Bernina dealer for advice presser foot for green stitches straight stitch zig zag green practical stitches Darning foot Darning Monograms by free hand Free hand embroidery sewing in zips sewing piping close along stitching line Tailor tacking foot Tailor tacking Fringes
18. to be stitch pattern in the same calculated so that they fit way by sewing the in exactly individual patterns Method Figs 2 and 3 Sew a sufficiently long trial piece with paper underlay Cut off edge of material fairly closely against straight edge of pattern Snip material into curved side of pattern Fig 2 Place trial piece on circle or figure and check whether the patterns co incide Fig 2 With a little practice it If not alter stitch length will be simple to estimate VY Slightly and sew the distance between the another trial piece When dots i e the length of the calculation is right the pattern so that the transfer dots to the de dots need no longer be marked 44 Practice procedure Divide the marked curve into straight sections cor responding to the length of the pattern with the aid of dots Sew first pattern lower needle raise presser foot turn material sufficiently for next dot to be directly in front of needle Lower foot sew second pattern etc Fig 1 Changing Maintenance the Bulb Cleaning and Lubricating P z Use 15W bulb with If the machine is kept in e Lift off free arm cover Lubricating the hook P 2 bayonnet socket cold room it should be Fig 5 1 2 drops of oil after j taken to a warm room e Clean feed dog under 3 4 hours sewing EM e Disconnect the sewing about 1 hour before use side of stitch plate and l m
19. will take the needle elec tronically down into the work A second tap will bring it up again and so on Windin Removing Lower Bobbin Case hread Inserting BONDIN e Place thread on a reel holder pin and take it clockwise around the pre tension stud to the empty bobbin Fig 6 Wind e Set power switch to O e Check whether needle is up If not raise needle with handwheel A round empty bobbin e Open hinged cover on free arm Fig 1 e Open cover of bobbin P Te winding device Fig 4 Several times also in a This disengages the clockwise direction machine e Set power switch to e Start bobbin winding device by operating foot control unit When the bobbin is fully wound the winding device switches off automati cally e Lift the latch of the bobbin case with the index finger of the left hand Fig 2 and remove bobbin case Fig 3 3 e Place empty bobbin on spindle Fig 5 This switches on the winding device ye Mc N eCut thread when removing bobbin by pulling against the small blade Fig 7 e Do not yet close cover of winding device eHold bobbin case in one hand insert bobbin so that the thread is wound in the clockwise direction see arrow Fig 8 e Pull thread through the slot and below the spring until it lies in the T shap ed slot at the end of the spring do not hold bobbin for this purpose Figs 94 10 e The
20. 0 660 0 amp 930 Electronic Contents Page 2 View of machine 4 Electrical section Connecting mains cable and foot control unit Power switch Sewing light Motor Electronic needle stop 5 Winding Removing bobbin case Winding bobbin thread Inserting bobbin Inserting bobbin case into hook 6 Threading Changing presser foot Inserting needie Changing presser foot Threading upper thread 7 Feed dog Thread tension Bringing up lower thread Lowering feed dog Thread tension B Presser foot lifter Sewing table Accessories box 9 Presser feet 10 Needle and thread special needle 11 Some sewing tips 12 Straight stitch Forward sewing Reverse sewing Securing the ends Five needle positions Pa Honeycomb stitch 16 Towelling stitch Double overlock stitch Jersey stitch Edge stitch Combi zig zag stitch 17 Applications of green stitches _ Sewnoutzigzag 1 Blind stitch Universal stitch Lycra stitch Stretch stitch Gathering stitch Vari overlock stitch Running stitch Scallop stitch 18 Sewing knitted fabrics Sewing rib trims Rib trim with decorative seam Rib trim with overlock seam 19 Hems with practical stitches Visible hem with jersey stitch Visible hem with vari overlock Visible hem with triple zig zag 20 Seams with practical stitches Triple straight stitch seam Zig zag seam Stretch seam Vari overlock seam Double overlock seam Flat joining seam towelling Flat joining
21. 1 cm to wrong side Sew zig zag over this pressed edge Guide pressed edge to centre of foot as for oversewing Then cut off remaining material on back against zig zag stitches Fig 1 32 Lace and insertions on woven material Scallop edging Presser foot Needle Stitch selection 1st operation Stitch width O Stitch length approx 1 Pin on lace baste and sew on with straight stitch 2nd operation Stitch width 1 depending on lace Stitch length 4 2 depending on lace Press raw edge under Oversew edge of lace with zig zag on right side Cut off remaining ma terial on back against zig zag stitches Fig 2 Thread darning thread selector lever changeover lever O Needle position centre Feed dog For collars cuffs neckerchiefs frills tablecloths serviettes lining hems etc Presser foot 030 Thread embroidery thread No 30 Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever 9 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitchlength 008500 _ Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Mark desired line and place paper underneath Sew scallop remove paper and cut round scallop Fig 3 Edgings on Jersey Lace on Jersey Presser foot 000 Thread darning thread Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever 0 Stitch width 1 Stitch length 1 2 approx Needle position centre Feed dog se
22. O Stitch width 1 Stitch length 1 1 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark Stretch seam open seam Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 5 changeover lever 1 0 Stitch width 1 1 Stitch length Y2 1 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark Triple straightstitch seam Hard wearing seam for firm fabrics Zig zag seam Seam for normal elastic jersey in wool synthetics or blended fibres as well as for silk cotton and woollen jersey perm a TETA ao E E vorne rhon re om rer p 5 pU 7 7 gt Sores ab 4440 pag ATT gt y y lt io dura urb I aiio 5 e gt 2 nd Ken eite t pr in eee aaa T y C Cur at Ju M T lt gt Oy Ps por Pee p CEA Ot Geha dm dram Aia por a oa rr 3 Sr rae a ut gute adhe cine Semen a khan ee F ee quiim met e t om 4 gt A gt y TFAL 2 FF F Y 4 Loo gt es yero rtr a i eap mm amt Stretch seam Highly elastic seam for stretch materials par ticularly for all kinds of sports wear A EOD t USAT LS MULTI ah ahh T 1 INS enar De ey NIS Tm se Seams with Practical Stitches Vari overlock seam Joining seam Flat Flat join
23. O0 3427 Stitch length 2 Double overlock 3 Feed dog i 9 ai Stitch selection selector lever 3 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Colour mark 3 Q O Stitch length 2 15 Applications of Red Stitches Triple straightstitch For il corduroy mat erials jeans mat 6 5 T materials deck chair covers car pet borders ruck sacks sleeping III bags etc amp Honeycomb stitch iui types of jer sey and generally smooth fabrics jeans materials corduroy leather decorative fabrics light curtains etc Visible seams and hems on T shirts sweaters under wear serviettes tablecloths craft work etc decorative seams and hems sewing on tape repairs etc for sports wear woollen blankets sleeping bags rucksacks deckchair covers etc hard wearing seams for joining fabric pieces or stitching 5 Ili Double overlock For knitted materials of all kinds and hand and mach ine knitted items o Edge stitch o Jersey stitch For Cotton Jersey blended and syn thetic fibres material Visible hems sewing on lace lt and tapes of all Decorative seams and hems par ticularly in under wear and cotton sweaters mending jersey sewing on elastics etc Overlock seam sewing and over casting in one operation hand and machine knit ted goods ki
24. Universal stitch 3 Stitch selection selector lever 3 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 2 Stitch width 1 4 Needle position centre Scallop stitch 9 Stitch selection selector lever 9 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 4 Buttonhole 0 Running stitch 8 Stitch selection selector lever 8 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 4 Stitch length 1 Vari overlock 7 Stitch selection selector lever 7 Feed dog Sewing changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 2 Colour mark e Needle position right 14 Selecting the Red Stitches stitches 1 6 Stitches O Presser foot 560 Stitches 0 Thread to suit the material Stitch width 0 produces p uw ig es fc Stitch width 1 4 prod Ue A T Tab ANDE uces the triple zig zag ENE i E E stitch PE e BI A VEL AE D See page 16 for appli posui Nel uu cation examples qut pu Eus Da o D Triple straight stitch 0 Stitch selector lever selection changeover lever Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O itch width 4 01234 Stitch width Q Stitc dt gt Stitch length 2 4 Needle position centre Triple zig zag 0 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 4 3X Buttonhole 0 Stitch length 2 4 Jersey stitch 4 Stitch selection selector lever 4 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch length 2 3 Stitch width 4 O0
25. a t9 nn nare Wr i m o dom om o 99 48 9 Mom OR RO PUR Rom aum m mo d ap d m M Poo memrmrem ss me mom VITTIMA m n m Hn EET E TEES SESE HRT ERNE o momo omo mom omo om SS o omo or A RN MR M T WOW m NOR RON mmm momo mom om mom mom eon c ooo momo oom M NE 4 AA AAA ee oe RR i eR MOTTA EA e qmm mm qmm o HO IA HH ARA UR ORO CHUA OR HO rm RARO doe RO Le qaa om A oem oan ennne 4 Needle selector lever Stitch selection 1 20 changeover lever lt ICN E 3 35 A Quo A e Ww Needle position centre E 5 E 2 Q O E o ti LL TO e i ols eiii Bla o a E 8 OI N o 9 9 IEEE Lu 2 TEPEN es SAY SSSR Fr yea hg ee gt tor lever changeover lever sel Stitch selection M 120 gt AAA Q lle 8 c EE S3 a Ses SS EEE HDZ r a a GU I mE Qa edd dd divi d d d d sce coe te ene SSSR SSR SSS ERECT eS Sees Y sewin Feed dog Colour mark Zip Fastener Zip fastener inserted flat Presser foot 007 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 Stitch width Stitch lenath 2 approx Needle position left right Feed dog sewing Colou
26. achine from the power to allow the oil in the free arm cover supply by pulling out the bearings to become more plug from the socket fluid Cleaning During sewing pieces of e Remove front cover thread and fluff collect 9 forwards under the stitch plate and steadily around the hook These remnants must be Cleaning the hook e Removing old bulb removed from time to e Set main switch to C Fig 2 time The free arm cover e Remove bobbin case Press bulb upwards has to be removed for see page 5 twist to left and with this purpose e Press lower releasing draw lever to left with the left e Set main switch to O thumb Fig 6 e Remove presser foot The half round locking and needle strap with the black hook e Open hinged cover on race cover can now be free arm swung down e Remove hook Fig 7 e Clean hook race top and bottom with brush and cotton cloth Never use a screwdriver or scis sors etc to remove pie ces of thread e Oil hook race slightly Fig 8 e Turn hand wheel if necessary until hook driver is on left and replace hook e Close black hook race cover and locking strap The latch must engage e Check by turning hand wheel e Insert bobbin case e Press with right index finger on the upper releasing lever Fig 4 e Inserting new bulb Fig 3 Press safety strap to right with the right hand insert new bulb with the left hand press upwards and twist to right to the stop
27. ad Needle 80 70 90 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 2 Stitch length 4 Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Colour mark 3 Preparation The first few stitches 1 First set stitch width should be sewn slowly Check that the needle is at its highest position only then attach presser foot 2 Loosen upper thread tension Fig 1 so that loose loops can form Reset thread tension to normal after tailor tack ing 3 Take the top thread through to the back of the foot Fig 2 Before starting to sew place both ends under the foot to the left Fig 3 Tailor tacking with darning thread in thin materials Needle 70 Tailor tacking with sewing thread Needle 80 Tailor tacking with basting thread particularly in woollen fabrics Needle possibly 90 Basting thread only top normal thread below First chalk mark the lines on to one side of fabric Remove pattern pin the two layers of fabric firmly and tailor tack along chalk line Fig 4 are then pulled apart and After cutting the lower Long seams need not be tacked for the whole length Sew a few tacking stitches raise tacking foot draw material about 5 cm along sew a few more stitches etc Fig 8 left Cut through the long intermediate stitches on both sides before cutting open Fig 8 right 5 The two layers of material the threads cut through
28. and thumb Fig 3 e Securing the presser foot same procedure but press clamping lever downwards with index finger Fig 4 BERNINA e Set power switch to O e Check whether needle is up e Raise presser foot e Place reel of thread on one of the two reel holder pins Hold ree of thread firmly while threading Fig 5 e First clip the thread into the thread guide at the rear of the machine then bring it through the slot in the thread tension Fig 5 e At the front of the machine take thread downwards under the thread regulator up again to the take up lever and then downwards to the needle holder thread guide Fig 6 e Always thread needle from front The small white plate on the front of the presser foot shaft makes it easier to thread the eye of the needle e Pull thread approx 10 cm through eye of needle Bringing up Lower Thread Lowering Feed dog Thread Tension e Hold end of upper thread with the right hand e Sew 1 stitch by tapping the foot control unit The electronic needle stop ensures that the needle will be in the raised posi tion e Pull upper thread so that the lower thread is brought up through the hole in the needle plate Fig 1 e Take both threads through the slot of the presser foot and clip into thread cutter Instead of using the elec tronic needle stop the lower thread can be brought up by turning the hand wheel forward with the
29. ble to keep the darning area taut Move ring to and fro without pressure other wise jerky movements and torn threads occur Starting from the left also helps to guide the work regularly Use sewing table sup port elbows if possible Set up machine a suf ficient distance from edge of table 7 Thread breaks frequently work guided irregular ly or too quickly Feed dog lowered 2 eT ra wm t SS Sse The Three Steps 1 Stretch work in darn ing ring Bring up bottom thread at top left corner of hole Moving ring up and down cover hole with first rows of stitches not too many stitches or the darn will be hard Finish at top right 2 Turn work and repeat from left to right so that 2nd rows of stitches are at right angle to first Important do not darn too sharply but in cur ves otherwise there is a danger of tearing The l or m motion is particular ly popular with begin ners Ensure that these do not result in a circular motion rows 3 Fill in any gaps stitching in the same di 1 rection as 2nd rows sO that the stitches sink in Always follow the grain and if the material sur rounding the hole is worn thin vary the length of the 3 a rows to avoid strain EHH a HE NUN qu i T i Small knots form on the underside work moved too slowly or machine running to fast The small darning rin
30. bobbin must turn in the clockwise direction of the arrow when pulling the thread Inserting bobbin case into hook e Hold bobbin case by the latch with the index fin ger and thumb of the left hand Insert so that the finger of the bobbin case points upwards and fits in the notch of the hook race cover e Check pull end of thread e Close hinged cover e Close cover of winding device 5 Inserting Needle Changin Presser Foot Threading Upper Thread See page 10 for suitable needle sizes e Set power switch to O e Check whether needle is up e The accessories box contains a small black screwdriver for loosening or tightening the needle clamp e Loosening the needle clamp half a turn to left anticlockwise Fig 1 e Inserting needle flat shank side of needle always at rear e Insert needle fully until it reaches the top If the needle does not contact the top i e is set too low faulty stitches are produced e Tighten needle clamp firmly Refer to page 9 concern ing presser feet and their range of application The success or otherwise of a piece of sewing largely depends on the correct choice of presser foot It must therefore be simple and quick to change the presser foot e Set power switch to O e Check whether needle is up e Raise presser foot Fig 2 e Raise clamping lever with the index finger of the right hand and re move the presser foot using the middle finger
31. broidery thread No 30 80 Presser foot Needle Stitch selection selector lever 15 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length approx Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark e 1 Sew pattern just over centre During this time watch the sewing in the presser foot slot Sew slowly after the centre of the pattern so that sewing does not go past the end of the pat tern Towards the end of the pattern look to see whether the pattern in dicator is at the broken black line If so then watch the pattern in dicator 2 Place needle into work by turning hand wheel 3 Turn material and sew next half of leaf in same way Fig 1 4 Set needle on centre line between the leaves already sewn for inter mediate leaves 2 Flowers Fig 2 1 Always start in the middle 2 When sewing the second half towards the centre of the flower do not cross the end of the pattern the red line otherwise the next leaf For this pattern the 2nd leaf is sewn directly over the 1st leaf Fig 3 will be shorter longer or out of line 3 When the needle re aches the centre check each time whether it is actually at the centre of the design If it is not then reposition material so that it does come to the centre Embroidery with Decorative Stitches 3 Parallel sewing of satin stitch pat terns Presser foot 030 Thread embroider
32. e foot lower the thread runs in the two amount of gather Fig 3 needle but do not lower grooves of the buttonhole g 9 7 foot yet foot and is oversewn Take cord 2 X length of Finally hold both threads fabric piece 20 cm in and gather the material the middle place over Fig 2 middle stem of button hole foot and hold to the back as for buttonhole 36 Monograms The following data apply to freehand monograms Presser foot possibly 285 Thread darning embroidery 30 Needle 80 Stitch selection 1 Stitch width 4 2 Stitch length 0 Needle position centre Feed dog lowered Colour mark e Monograms can be em broidered in various ways Full details can be found in Bernina Sewing Manual No 16 which also contains patterns for alphabets of various sizes and scripts Work without presser foot But still lower lever for lowering presser foot otherwise loose stitches will be produced Always stretch material in the loop Lay paper under thin ma terials Those who are afraid at first to embroider without a presser foot can use the darning foot 285 In most cases darning thread 30 is used Em broidery thread is also suitable for large mono grams e g on towels Practice makes perfect Monograms are easier worked freely rather than trying to follow a marked line Select stitch width 4 and do not sew letters larger than 2 3 cm Large monograms are mo
33. e material can be stretched a little and turned easily Fig 2 This method of guiding is unsatisfactory slight pressure is exerted on the material and guiding is difficult Fig 3 Single colour appliqu Presser foot 030 Thread darning embroidery 30 Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark Procedure Trace the design onto the wrong side of the back ground material with tracing paper N B This will be reversed on the right side The design can also be traced on thin Vilene and ironed onto the back of the material This is recommended for coarse and irregular fabrics on which it is difficult to trace Stiffen appliqu material with Vilene and baste onto the right side of background material If vilene is not used paper must be used underneath all satin stitches This is torn away afterwards Vilene fine iron on non woven interfacing changeover lever O 1st operation Stitch width Y2 1 Stitch length 4 approx a Sew along the trac ed lines on the wrong side of background b Trim away the sur plus material of the ap pliqued piece against the zig zag stitches Take work out of the frame for this purpose 2nd operation Stitch width 1 Stitch length almost 0 Cover the cut edge and the zig zag stitches work ing on the right side with a satin stitch Sew cor ners and small curves stitch by sti
34. g The small darning ring is particularly useful for darning small holes in work that will not easily fit into a large ring such as socks sleeves trouser legs etc or where you wish to use the free arm Stretching the work Place darning ring without spring clip on free arm Fig 1 Pull material evenly over free arm and darning ring Stretch darning ring fully to left Place index finger and thumb of right hand around the small darning ring Fig 2 With the left hand stretch darning material to extreme point of free arm The tension prod uced in this way is held with the thumb of the right hand nsert the spring clip as follows with the left hand close spring clip insert under the index finger of the right hand and hold firmly Fig 3 Only then press spring clip fully into darning ring Darning technique When the work is stretched in the small darning ring over the free arm sew the 1st run lengthwise and the 2nd run widthwise since the work cannot be turned 31 Edgings on Woven Material Fine edge finishing For frills scarves neckerchiefs serviettes etc Presser foot 000 Thread darning thread Needle 80 70 selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch selection Stitch width 1 2 Stitch length 1 2 approx Needle position centre Feed doa sewin Colour mark Press turnings of approx
35. g the needle position The needle is at the centre for normal sewing Application examples Blind hem page 24 Edge stitching page 25 Sewing in zips page 22 Securing the ends Sew approx 1 cm re verse and then forwards again at beginning and end of seam Securing thick seams Stop machine when changing over from for wards to reverse sewing and vice versa The needle stop device ensures that the D D needle is always raised d J when stopped It cannot therefore be bent by thick D 0 materials Zig zag Green stitch O Setting zig zag Presser foot 000 Thread to suit material Needle to suit thread Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 1 4 Stitch length 1 4 Needle position centre Feed doa sewin Colour mark Zig zag Stitch width Setting the width 4 The width of the zig zag stitch is set with the stitch width knob It can be set fully variably up to 4mm 3 The stitch width can be altered while sewing or Stitch length 4 with the machine 2 stationary But the needle must not 1 be in the material when the machine is station ary Overcasting edges Presser foot 000 Thread darning thread possibly sewing thread Needle 80 70 Stitch width 2 4 Stitch length 1 4 In general zig zag should stitch length not too long not be too wide and cut edge neatly first Use If sewn on the edge als
36. hed edges Fig 3 likewise for edges of all kinds Presser foot OOO Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 0 Stitch length 12 4 c Marking line2 Needle position all positions 15mm 1 5 cm Fig 4 Feed dog sewin Colour mark Guide material edge along the presser foot or along the markings in the stitch plate Other widths can be sewn using the needle positions left half left right and half right Buttonholes Presser foot 452 Thread sewing thr darning thr Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width connected automaticall Stitch length practically O Needle position connected automatically Feed dog sewing Colour mark 3 0 Colour mark To sew buttonholes 2 Setstitch length as thread lower thread in the follows Turn knob to finger of the bobbin case right until it locks The Fig 1 Mark is now on top Fig 3 and the stitch length is O Now make half a turn to the left marking line to the bottom and this will give the basic setting for the stitch length Adjust stitch density to suit material turn a little Buttonhole setting 1 Switch buttonhole knob to position 1 Fig 2 to left for thick fabrics to right for fine fabrics Q Always sew a trial but 5 1 tonhole The stitch length varies slightly depending on the type of material 4
37. ic principles of embroidery with decorative stitches Your BERNINA has of course many more possibilities to offer you partic ularly in the field of embroidery and design for example Broderie anglaise e Circular embroidery Cording 2 and 3 needle work Free hand embroidery Hem stitches e Embroidery with pearl yarn wool e Embroidery with metal thread e Buttonhole stitch embroidery Cavelier foot Imitation smocking Practical application of the decorative stitches Sewing on buttons Hemmer shell hemmer lap hemmer etc For this type of sewing a special foot or special accessory is avail able Your BERNINA dealer will be glad to give you information and advice on the additional possibilities your machine has to offer Notes Notes by the Bernina agent concerning instructions customer service visits and ny warranty provisions Date Notes fitz Gegaut Ltd Bernina Sewing Machine Manufacturers CH 8266 Steckborn Switzerland SSS Z 054 62 11 11 Telegram Bernina Telex BNIN CH 896 443 ay m o er 2 6 92 U 9 060 6981 OBE HD 8 mu
38. ing seam tch Double overlock st Vari overlock seam w O Ez i o a e SS 0 9 v a ua qu wt O OOA GO S UD 7 SS amp ul i D 0 9 c 0 exo 6 2s 1 O E85 o2 GD Q x gt of m gg GPSS gt 5 gt 2 SERA E 9 5 ET A ms gt x o o olte Yeto Secs gt ox gt O 9 0 oa Es oct 6 5 Qu cts LL gt SOS OE L a itr o Re gt on na ocog ees nz 9 IS Dm 5 Og 3 mU ce Be 98258 T 2 A Oo O Q N AR 5 3 je 2 G o a D o gt a ES c 8 gt j 52 ajo 5 2 e E c S o A c e eas lt Gio sese it lt eo o q o t ACO wl 0 60 21 o o WOO wl o st o o WI o rw o M Q 2 z z D c g Q Jas 2 9 Jats Cic x 9 ci e B 5 o Os 2 E v 2 D 3 c aE 02 9 9 D feel MRSS o sea Pass Blas Zee A SS ae 2 4 3go HHS ZZ lt zz9 alrTizio ninZwiu aj zlo maz Avay n Pee 9 toute SS sewin See Feed doa 1 Colour mark A Flat joining seam Presser foot DIDI TATATATA TATATATA 560 ch Wis 2 E y nee yoo X ai WS A 7 yas A DE 1 AMAA ee eee Q
39. ion 1 Connecting mains cable and foot control unit The terminals on the machine for mains cable and foot control unit can be seen in Fig 1 Foot control unit Fig 2 For controlling the sew ing speed 4 3 Power switch The power switch on the right below the hand wheel Fig 3 has 3 posi tions O Off the machine is switched off On the machine is switched on for maximum sewing speed The sewing speed can be regulated up to maximum speed by pressing the foot plate of __ the foot control unit 4 amp On the machine is switched on for reduced sewing speed At this switch position the maximum speed is reduced to approximately half When switched to reduced sewing speed sew ing is made much easier for more difficult work as well as for those less used to electric sewing machines Sewing light The sewing light is switched on and off with the switch fitted in the front cover Fig 4 The sewing light is also switched off when the main switch is at O off Motor The d c motor and elec tronic speed control en sure exceptional pen etrating power even when sewing slowly The high penetrating power considerably sim plifies the sewing of very heavy materials very dense fabrics and thick seams Electronic needle stop Every time you stop sew ing an electronic system takes the needle to its highest position A light tap with the hee on the back of the foot control
40. me pro ficient Appliqu Appliqu is a method of embroidery for sewing on shapes and figures It al lows free reign to the im agination There is a wide range of methods for sewing on the shapes The basic technique is explained below Guiding the material You can work with or without a frame but stretched material can be guided more easily The most important basic principles Guide the work by watching the needle in the slot of the presser foot Stop machine when al tering position of hands To obtain a smooth curve guide material whilst sewing stopping and turning will give a ragged effect Exception very small curves and corners Guiding with frame The frame is mainly guided by the left hand It must be held firmly and be able to turn easily The right hand must be able to operate the hand wheel at all times 38 Hand position initially as when darning Then draw index finger straight back Fig 1 to the inner edge of the frame Middle and ring fingers remain stretched Important note Do not place index finger parallel to the thumb otherwise movement of the hand is restricted Guiding without frame Some textiles e g velvet cannot be stretched in the frame Nevertheless they should be guided in as stretched a condition as possible Place thumbs under the material Make a fold if the workpiece is large Guide near presser foot In this way th
41. nds decorative edging craft work e Towelling stitch Primarily for towelling mat zl erials jeans fabrics leather and other heavier A materials Flat joining seam visible hem for zl beachwear craft work O Combi zig zag For knitted materials and textiles Visible hems covering seams etc Applications of Decorative Green Stitches stitches Sewn out 1 e Blind stitch Universal stitch O Lycra stitch For most types of For most types of For firmer knitted w Specially for lycra gt material material materials and material fabrics felt leather etc For highly elastic materials Highly elastic open seam for ski riding climbing hiking and activity wear Flat joining seams and hems Finishing of seams in foundation gar ments Blind hemstitch shell edging on soft jerseys and fine materials Decorative seams lt Overcasting lt loosely woven lt fabrics lt Reinforcing and lt repairing edges Decorative seams Flat joining seam visible hems patchwork mend ing jersey sewing on elastics Decorative seams D O stiches Scallop stitch Particularly for woven fabrics o Running stitch For most types of material 7 Vari overlock Particularly for fine synthetic and
42. o guide on the edge Fig 2 darning thread if pos sible particularly for fine material Guide edge of material in centre of presser foot so that the needle penetrates alternately in the material and then outside Fig 1 Satin stitch close zig zag Presser foot 030 embroidery foot Thread embroidery thread 30 Needle 80 Stitch width 1 4 Stitch length almost O Set stitch length for very close zig zag Turn stitch length knob to the right until it locks Mark on knob is on top Stitch length is then O By turning half a revolu tion to the left mark is underneath the basic setting of stitch length is obtained Adjust stitch density from basic setting to suit ma terial Turn a little to the left for thicker material a little to the right for finer material Sew a sample Selecting the Green Stitches stitches 1 20 Presser foot OOO e Press selector lever to Thread to suit the material right to disengage and set Needle to suit the thread AC stitch SS s e Set changeover lever to lt lt 1 20 AC B e Set knob for colour mark MZ NA to green Cue o 0 eee D nm C aeo See page 1 7 for application nu 4 examples of green stitches LAAAAA 2 NN 6 S 6 4 4 4 i ANNM lt lt lt WW O T Stitch selector lever 1 20 selection changeover lever 1 20
43. olished needle needle tip shape does not suit material to be sewn if necessary use ball tip for knitted ma terials and cutting tip for hard leather lower thread is still threaded in finger of bobbin case Needle breaks threaded with foot lowered needle clamping screw wrongly threaded not sufficiently tightened the material was with drawn from the front instead of the real un der presser foot while sewing over thick parts material was pushed while needle was still in the material use jeans foot poor quality thread irregularly twisted or knotted Tension errors thread remnants be tween the thread ten sion discs thread remnants under bobbin case spring thread threaded in finger of bobbin case as for buttonhole sew ing check upper and lower threads Machine runs slowly or not at all plug not fully inserted main switch at O winder cover not closed main switch at reduced sewing speed machine movement blocked by unsuitable oil machine must be cleaned by an expert machine has been standing in a cold room If you take your machine to an expert please al ways take foot control and accessories Stowing in Carrying Case The specious carrying case protects the machine from damage and pro vides room for foot con trol unit cable sewing table presser foot lifter instruction book and box of accesso
44. on indicator 13 Adjusting wheel for thread tension 14 Pattern indicator 15 Lamp indications 16 Red stitches 17 Green stitches 18 Selector lever 19 Chengeoverlever 5 8 amp 20 Reel holder pins 21 Cover of bobbin winding device 22 Bobbin spindle 23 Thread cutter 24 Hand wheel 25 Stitch width knob 26 Needle position knob 27 0 996 28 Buttonhole knob 29 Stitch length knob 30 Symbol for sewing darning 31 Connection for foot control unit 32 Sewing darning knob 33 Red green stitch knob 34 Lamp indications 35 Opening for knee lifter Dear Bernina Customer We would like to congratulate you on the purchase of your new Bernina sewing machine and thank you for the confidence shown in our products You have acquired a top quality Swiss product manufactured with the utmost skill and care at our Bernina factory in Steckborn Switzerland My Bernina Guide provides you with all the necessary information about your Bernina and its countless applications for sewing work If you should require further details or advice about your sewing machine or sewing problems please contact your Bernina stockist We hope you are successful and happy with your sewing and dressmaking work With kind regards Odette Ueltschi Gegauf Chairman of the Board FRITZ GEGAUF LTD Manufacturer of Bernina Sewing Machines CH 8266 Steckborn TG Switzerland Electrical Sect
45. penetrate needle into the material and switch on automatic long stitch device To secure end of seam switch off automatic long stitch device and sew several stitches Feed dog sewin Colour mark 3 Decorative seams with buttonhole thread cordonnet a Buttonhole thread as b Buttonhole thread as upper thread lower thread If the thick needle is un Needle No 110 or 120 suitable for the material the buttonhole thread must be sewn as lower that a needle No 100 thread In this case sew will be satisfactory for ing must be on the back certain types of material of the material If the Do a test piece of sewing sewing line is not visible e g when sewing on s T f I Uma UE General rule It is perfectly possible Blind Hemming e a _ Presser foot 016 Guiding the work Thread sewing thr darning thr Guide the hem into the Needle 80 70 foot as shown in Fig 2 Stitch selection selector lever 2 Tip Hold the work lightly changeover lever 1 20 ensuring the fold is Stitch width 22 approx always kept against the Stitch length 2 2 guide Needle position right Feed dog sewin Colour mark Important terial may require a small ly making it narrower if As for sewing by hand adjustment needle is too far over fold a fine material requires a Trial and wider if it is missing fine needle and fine Sew slowly until the the fold thread needle
46. r mark IPTE ERICH pits o ENS changeover lever O Preparation Baste entire seam with basting device Mark length of zip and sew seam as far as zip open ing Unpick basting thread except along zip section Press entire seam trim evenly and overcoast Remove re maining basting thread Baste in zip so that the teeth are covered by the material Sew in zip both sides from bottom to top once with the needle position right and once with needle position left Jeans Foot blue point Jeans foot Unusually thick or hard seams can be sewn with out difficulty with the jeans foot Select stitch length as required between 2 and 3 5 mm Please ensure that needle position centre and stitch width O are set Use needle No 100 Plastic Leather Plastic Like synthetic fibres plastic must be treated differently according to surface and graining when securing the edges If the work does not slide properly it is often suf ficient to lubricate the sewing area slightly with sewing machine oil us ing a small cotton wad wrapped in absorbent material Alternatively use presser foot with sliding rollers or Teflon base Always sew plastic with long stitch length to pre vent cutting Leather and imitation leather It is of course also possible to sew leather It may be necessary to use leather needles for hard leather Sew a test piece first Stitch length not too short
47. re difficult as you must hold the hoop steady for longer The letters R and B are particularly suitable for practising Practice some pre trac ed monograms later The line traced should lie in the middle of the zig zag stitch Run machine at about three quarters speed but guide the frame slowly regularly and smoothly Procedure Fig 1 a Bring up the lower thread through the ma terial Secure with a few straight stitches Cut both thread ends b Set zig zag sew 1 2 rest stitches with the aid of the hand wheel ensuring that straight stitches are covered by the zig zag stitches c Move frame outwards as though writing with it But do not twist it un der any circumstances the narrow and wide sec tions are produced auto matically When the curved section begins guide the frame along the curve without twisting it d Finally secure with a few straight stitches Guiding the embroidery frame The stitching of an even monogram largely de pends on the correct holding of the frame Hold frame as when darning Fig 2 Too much pressure by the fingers on the material produces irregular jerky movements and therefore uneven monograms Important Work as closely to the centre of the frame as possible otherwise reg ular guiding is very diffi cult Note Small thin letters are more difficult to embroider Practice with larger letters at first until you have beco
48. reading 6 Edge stitch 16 Lycra stitch 17 Red stitches 15 Presser foot 6 Edges Elastic thread 28 Lycra flat joining seam 21 Setting the zig zag 13 Tension 7 Je 33 Machine faults 46 Sewing Calculating corners 43 Winding bobbin 5 Material 32 Main switch 4 Calculating curves 44 Tips sewing 11 Narrow stitched 25 Maintenance 45 Forward 12 Triple lockstitch 16 Overcasting 13 Mending Fabrics 29 Light 4 Triple lockstitch seam 20 Securin 12 Jersey 28 Knitted fabrics 18 Triple zig zag Seam 16 Wide stitched 25 Tears with running stitch 29 Reverse 12 Visible hem 19 Elastics 33 Monograms 37 Rib trims 18 Universal stitch 17 Elastic thread gatherin 36 Motor 4 Table 8 Vari overlock Applications 21 Electrical section 4 Needle Breaks 46 Tips 11 visible hem 19 Electronic needle stop 4 Five positions 12 Sewn out zig zag 17 View of machine 2 Embroidery 40 44 Inserting 6 Shell edgin 33 Winding _ Faults prevention 46 Special 10 Stitches Decorative 40 44 Zigzag Seam 20 Feed dog thread tension 7 Stop 4 Faulty 46 Setting 13 Fine edge finish 32 Thread 10 Honeycomb 28 Zips 22 Flat joining seam 21 Overcasting edges 13 Jersey 28 Contents 1 View of Machine 1 Hinged cover on free arm 2 Free arm cover 3 Needle plate Presser foot 5 Needle holder clamp 6 Thread regulator 7 Automatic long stitch amp basting device switch 8 Thread take up lever 9 Thread tension slot 10 Thread tension disc 11 Top frame cover 12 Thread tensi
49. ries Stowing Ensure that the machine is properly inserted in the case The correct position is shown on the bottom of the case Important Subject to BEAB and OSHA safety regulations official testing centers in Great Britain and the U S A The following safety regulations must be observed without fail The moving needle is a source of danger risk of injury to fingers The sewing position must there fore be kept under constant ob servation Manipulations within the area of movement of the needle such as changing the needle the presser foot or stitch plate must only be performed with the machine switched off main switch set to position The same applies when removing and replacing the lower thread bobbin or hook During maintenance work cleaning or lubricating or changing the light bulb and in terruptions in sewing or after completion of work the machine must be disconnected from the power supply by pull ing out the mains plug Repairs to the electronic sec tion especially the changing of the lead wire to the foot control unit may only be carried out by one of our service agencies 48 The right to make constructional changes differing from text and illustrations is reserved Special accessories The contents of the present My Ber nina Guide only cover basic sewing work especially practical routine sewing and the bas
50. s best to darn minor fit a replacement piece tears See page 30 For since this retains the larger thin or damaged elasticity areas it is preferable to Cut out a replacement piece from the good part of a no longer worn similar garment rounding off the corners to pre serve the elasticity in all directions Pin on the replacement piece and baste with small basting device stitches along the edge if possible Then sew on with jersey stitch 1 2 rows Finally cut out damaged portion Edging with elastic thread Elastic thread is used to restore distorted edges to their original shape Presser foot 000 Thread darning thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 3 Stitch length 1 2 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Guide two elastic threads along the edge and sew on with zig zag stitches pulling threads slightly Fig 1 Mending Fabrics Mending tears with running stitch modern darning For tears and thin places in practi cally all materials Presser foot 000 Thread darning thread Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever 8 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length almost O 4 Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Colour mark Always place a fine backing fabric under neath Sew 3 5 rows of running stitch for tears depending on the type of fabric and damage Fig 1 On thin areas
51. seam lycra 21 13 Zig zag 22 Zips Jeans foot Setting the zig zag Plastic Leather Overcasting edges 23 Autom long stitch Basting device Satin stitch Decorative seams 14 Selecting the green stitches 24 Blind hemming 15 Selecting the red stitches 16 Applications of red stitches 25 Stitching edges Narrow stitched edges Triple straight stitch Wide stitched edges Triple zig zag seam 26 Buttonhole Page RERO 27 Buttonhole with gimp cord 28 Mending jersey Patching with jersey stitch Edging with elastic thread 29 Mending fabrics Patching with honeycomb stitch Mending tears with running stitch 3O Darning Principle of darning 31 The small darning ring 32 Edgings on material Fine edge finish Lace and insertions on woven material ___Scallopedging 1 33 Edgings on jersey _ 5 Lace on jersey Elastic 34 Tailor tacking 36 Gatherin Gathering with cord Normal gatherin Gathering with elastic thread 37 Monograms 38 Appliqu Single colour appliqu 39 Multi colour appliqu 40 Embroidery with decorative stitches Pattern indicator 41 Leaves Flowers 42 Parallel sewing of patterns 43 Sewing and calculating corners 44 Sewing and calculating curves 45 Changing the bulb Maintenance cleaning and lubricating Cleanin Lubricating the hook Cleaning the hook Page 45 Prevention of faults Upper thread breaks Lower thread breaks Faulty stitches Needle breaks
52. swings to the left Check the next left This work is best sewn at side Using the hand swinging stitch in the a slow speed wheel guide the needle same way Then sew ap until it just touches the prox 10 cm and check Preparation fold and check that it just again The hem should be pre catches it If necessary pared as for sewing by adjust stitch width slight hand oversew raw edge baste and press Placing the hem Eee Re How the work is placed a eee Mu lt beneath the foot Eu e see Fig 1 PEE E aaa E Trial sewing on a ma terial remnant or directly on hem It is recom mended to sew a trial piece owing to the vary ing material thicknesses the needle should only prick the edge of the material as when sewing by hand Basic setting is always stitch width 22 The dif ferent thicknesses of ma 24 Stitching Edges using the Needle Positions Narrow stitched edges on collars cuffs lapels hems etc Presser foot 016 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 0 Stitch length 15 4 Needle position left half left Feed dog sewin Stitching widths Colour mark e a Presser foot deep 7 mm Fig 2 Place fabric edge to left side of guide on blind stitch foot Fig 1 Set needle position left or half left Switch on auto matic long stitch for long stitches b Marking line 1 10mm 1 cm Wide stitc
53. tch Finish by tracing the lines through that were not appliqued and sew over from right side Corners and small curves Fig 4 a Rectangular corners Stop with the needle at outer edge turn the work and continue sewing The corner will then be over b Pointed corners sew to V cm before corner Then turn zig zag back to 0 while sewing Raise presser foot turn work set zig zag again to 2 and continue sewing carefully c Blunt corners sew until the needle is exactly at the middle of the angle Then sew out from centre replacing the needle in the middle after every stitch Raise presser foot and turn material slightly d Sew small curves in the same way ue 7 B T Multi colour appliqu The appliqu pieces must overlap Lower appliqu piece 1 Baste on appliqu material Sew first oper ation where colours intersect sew only with straight stitch the remaining lines with zig zag Fig 5 2 Cut off surplus ma terial Warning leave 2 mm where straight stitch is sewn cut off all material where zig zag is sewn Fig 6 3 Omit the straight stitch lines when covering the edges These are covered by the next appliqu Fig 7 Upper appliqu piece work as for normal 4 appliqu Embroidery with Decorative Stitches Like all other needlework whether free hand em broidery knitting or weaving embroidery with decorative stitches on the machine req
54. tch 23 Green stitches applications 17 Plastic 22 Selecting green 15 Basting device 23 Selecting 14 Presser feet 9 Straight 12 Blind hemming 24 Hems With practical stitches 19 Presserfoot Changing 6 Stretch 16 Blind stitch 17 Visible 19 Lifter 8 Towellin 16 Bobbin inserting removing 5 Hon b stitch 16 Prevention of faults 46 Stitched edges Narrow stitched 25 Bulb changing 45 Honeycomb stitch mending 29 Red stitches lications 16 Wide stitched 25 Buttonholes 26 27 Hook cleaning lubricating 45 Selecting 15 Stowing in carrying case 47 Carrying case 47 Jeans foot 22 Reverse sewing 12 Straight stitch 12 Changing Bulb 45 Jersey Mending 28 Rib trim Decorative seam 18 Stretch seam 20 Presser foot 6 Stitch 16 Overlock seam 18 Stretch stitch 17 Cleaning 45 Stitch visible hem 19 Running stitch Applications 17 Switch Combi zig za 16 Stitch placing patch 28 Mending 29 Tailor tacking 34 35 Connecting mains cable and Joining seam 21 Satin stitch 13 Towelling stitch 16 foot control unit 4 Lace and insertions on Scallop edging 32 Thread Cord gathering 36 Daming 30 31 woven material 32 Scallop seam 17 Elastic gathering 36 Decorative Seams 23 Lace on jerse 33 Seams Decorative 23 Lower breaks 46 Stitches embroidery 40 41 Leather 22 With plain stitches 20 21 Lower bringing up 7 Double overlock 16 Light 4 Securing the 12 Upper breaks 46 Double overlock seam 21 Lubricating the hook 45 Selecting Green stitches 14 Upper th
55. thread thick hand sewing thread of fine crochet cord Sew a trial button hole Place material under the foot so that the edge of the material lies in front of the presser foot The loop of the cord then comes at the end of the buttonhole which is pull ed by the button Fig 6 Sewing with gimp cord It is much easier to po sition the cord if the needle is already in the material 1 Move needle down using hand wheel and check whether it is at the centre of the presser foot If not operate needle stop once Position ma terial beneath foot and place needle exactly at start of buttonhole Do not lower foot yet 2 Place cord over the centre stem of the but tonhole foot Fig 7 and take both ends under the foot to the rear Fig 8 Lower foot and check whether cord can slide i e is not stuck 3 Sew buttonhole do not hold cord as it must be able to move Finally pull the loop of the cord into buttonhole In knitted fabrics thread ends of cord to rear with large hand sewing needle Fig 9 and tie or sew in securely The cord end can be cut off in woven material Mending Jersey Patching with jersey stitch Mainly for mending jersey underwear Presser foot 560 Thread darning thread Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever m changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 2 Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Colour mark e It i
56. uires some basic knowledge and a little practice for success Practice makes perfect With a little skill y you too can produce works of art to your own design Practice in the sequence specified Each step is based on the preceding one Even practice can be fun parallel sewing of ing comers sewing and calculat ing curves 2 3 patterns 4 sewing and calculat 5 A bright regular and rather firm cotton fabric is most suitable for practice purposes Strengthen material a little if neces sary 40 Guiding the material Ensure that the material runs regularly under the presser foot Pulling pushing or holding back the material produces ir regular patterns Fig 1 Use sewing table Do not place machine at edge of table Paper underlay Always use paper under neath to ensure that the material does not pull together owing to the width of the stitch Fig 2 Pattern paper type writer dies Pim newspaper are suitable but not tissue paper Pattern repeat indicator Fig 3 The pattern indicator shows how far a decora tive pattern has been sewn a The red line indicates beginning and end of a pattern b The black line indi cates the centre of the pattern c The broken stroke vertical black line is a preliminary indication that the pattern will soon be complete 1 Leaves Exercise for observing the pattern indicator 030 Thread em
57. width sew trim off surplus material The Hints for working with knitted materials page 18 apply to all types of jersey Visible hem with jersey stitch Pin or baste hem with Presser foot 960 basting device Cut edge eae E thread can also be sewn directly over the edge Stitch selection selector lever 4 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 2 Needle position centre Feed dog sewing Colour mark D Visible hem with vari overlock Presser foot 470 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 70 Stitch selection selector lever 7 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 approx Needle position right Feed dog sewing Colour mark 9 Visible hem with triple zig zag Presser foot 560 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 0 changeover lever O Stitch width 4 Stitch length 2 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Visible hem with vari overlock Highly elastic visible hem for all highly elastic jer seys terry cloth stretch helanca very soft cotton and woollen jerseys Pin or baste hem with basting device Sew hem approx 1 cm from raw edge Cut off surplus material Visible hem with triple zig zag Hard wearing visible hem for firm fabrics jeans etc Pin or baste hem with basting device Sew hem approx 1 cm from raw edge Cut off surplus material Nh 1
58. wing Colour mark Pin on lace baste with short basting device stitches sew on with zig zag over edge of lace Cut off remaining jersey on back against zig zag stitches Fig 1 bol Lu uH i uvis LX od m un w LI Ott iH n e Shell edging Specially for fine materials and jerseys Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 2 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length 1 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark Place material under presser foot so that the edge for the shell edging is on the left The needle on its left swing should just go over the edge Fig 2 Elastic Specially for sports and other underwear Presser foot 000 Thread sewing thread Needle 80 Stitch selection selector lever 3 changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 3 3 Stitch length 1 Needle position centre Feed dog Sewing Colour mark It is easier to gather Pin on elastic and sew in jersey first sew long place Cut off surplus on straight stitches then back Fig 3 Remove pull lower thread and gathering thread gather jersey to the Elastic must not be necessary width stretched during sewing Tailor Tacking Patterns can be transfer red in a simple way onto the fabric with the aid of the tailor tacking foot Presser foot 419 Thread sewing thre
59. y thread No 30 80 selector lever PF changeover lever 1 20 Stitch width 4 Stitch length almost 0 Needle position centre Feed dog sewin Colour mark 2 9 2 For the 2nd row guide the material with fingers very close to the foot All fingers should be on the fabric but the middle fingers are the ones that do most of the work These should al ways be against the marked line This means that at the end of each pattern your middle fingers must move down to the next marked line Fig 2 Needle Stitch selection Sewing two perfectly matching parallel lines of embroidery patterns can be a problem This is be cause when working the 2nd row of sewing the 1st row will also run partly under the foot This acts as a thick ma terial would do and shor tens the stitch slightly and you must therefore compensate for this As you sew each individ ual pattern push the ma terial slightly so that they match Under no circum stances raise the presser foot and move the work This procedure takes practice and you cannot expect perfectly matching patterns at your first at tempt Always sew slowly 1 Mark a line out from the end of each pattern Fig 1 42 77 22_27 Sewing and calculating corners 4 Presser foot 030 pulling the material In Thread embroidery thread No 30 this way should adjust Needle 80 ment be necessary it will Stitch selection selector

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