I hope with this page to compile all the available information on the
Contents
1. Cruise control Room light cord Ignition relay Horn relay Fuel pump relay Automatic shoulder belt limit Sunroof cord switch RH Clutch switch MT cruise control Mode actuator Diagnosis terminal Ground Diagnosis connector Diagnosis connector Airbag model Front door cord LH Starter interlock relay MT Instrumont panel wiring harness Power window main harness Diode Daytime running light F B Diode AT cruise contro Diode AT cruise control AT contro unit Canada mode Daytime running light rela dae moda e E i ht high be Daytime running light control unit Diode Seat Ger Canada mo ida Shield joint connector ABS Shield joint connector AT Read memory connector Turubo and ait suspension model Airbag harness Shield joint connector AT Fig 98 1 0704 INESS o gt OU 8 e A am bd AE M 1 09 17 457 E a VR Eg B6 712 There s a pretty good overview of the interior side of things And the engine side is pretty simple since it s more obvious where the wires go Label as many of the wires as you can before removing the harness Here s a pinout of the SMJ referred to in the Chilton s E but not explained Bulkhead Wi ring lt lt gt gt Front Wiring Harness Harness 827 66 Poles AG AS AS Az B6 B5 B4 C6 C5 GI D6 DS D4 p E6JE5 ES Here are the pages from the 1992 factory service manual about the legacy und2. completely computer controlled Not like an old carbureted V8 that s all mechanically driven Even the EA cars had a distributor An EJ22 has many sensors that tell a computer ECU or Engine Control Unit what s happening with the engine and it in turn tells the 1gnition coil and injectors what to do to keep the engine running smoothly All of the wiring needed to do this will need to be transplanted into your EA car This is by far the most complicated part of the swap Mechanically speaking it s a very simple swap but the electrical system 1s a huge job A Chilton s manual will have pretty good wiring diagrams of both the EA car and the EJ The Haynes manuals are also handy But the factory service manuals are best I ll include many of those pages so you can get by without one So for starters you ll need to remove all of the necessary wiring from the donor car the following is all based directly off a 90 94 legacy although newer models will be somewhat similar even though they re OBDII It s a VERY good idea to figure out and label what where things go to as you remove them because most of the wires under the dash will be removed and discarded So here are a few pictures of a Legacy with the dash removed you ll need to strip it all the way down to the firewall to get everything out but this gives you a good idea of where everything goes When it comes time to thin out the harness remember an unplugged wire is the same as a cut
3. for the dash Check Engine Light Oil light Tachometer Vehicle Speed Sensor and Temp gauge As I mentioned earlier if the connector isn t going to be plugged in there s no use leaving the whole wire in the harness and if you run out of things that you know won t be used in the interior just move to something from the engine bay that you know you won t be using turn signals headlights A C wipers etc Once you ve reduced it just down to the crucial Engine control harness You can begin preparing it for install Reduce the power wires to one Use a thicker gauge wire to hook up right to the battery with an inline fuse holder Then split it off one wire that goes straight to the ECU for the memory wire and another that goes to the main relay Then get the grounds together and tie them all together with many different places were it can bolt to the car insufficient grounding 1s a common problem in this swap Then make sure you have all the gauge wires marked and ready to tap into the EA cars harness Now 1s also a good time to find those same wires in that EA harness Here s a simple diagram of how to power the harness The three ECU pins shown are al5 ECU memory should always have power d23 fuel pump activation the ECU connects this wire to ground when the fuel pump should come on c10 Starter switch should get 10 14 volts while cranking This changes the fuel mixtures for easier cold starts The wire marked To the re
4. is a tab on the heat shielding right behind the flanges on either side of the Y pipe that I had to pound flat to keep from rubbing on the crossmember EJ22 Y pipe may rub on the crossmembers shim it down by stacking an extra flange onto the y pipe s flanges 1cm drop There are variations here just make sure you test fit everything before committing to it And in the long run and full custom made system may be preferable 11 The wiring on the EA81 goes thru the grommet behind the strut tower without any problem The EA82 you have to pull the LF fender and run the wiring thru that grommet and its a lot harder to get all the wires thru the 2nd hole that the old intake manifold wiring went thru but it does fit The 2 2 fits in the EA82 body frame rails better but the clearance between the radiator and the front pullies 1s tighter on the ea82 The EA81 was a lot easier to put the air filter into but both can be done this way Take the legacy air box cut the bottom of it off so the bottom of the filter is exposed and then take the legacy airbox mount on the frame rail and make new holes to bolt it in I simply zip tied the stock legacy airbox into the stock location It s worked great Or the EJ MAF can be adapted to the EA82 turbo airbox I drilled new holes in the airbox to accept the MAF and then cut the plenum at a certain angle I ll admit I went through three of them before finding the proper angle at which to cut because e
5. may need to be creative with the routing The single row radiator ea82 seems to be a better fit than the twin row Of course cooling is sacrificed The ea81 radiator is alot easier for the radiator shop to modify to work with ej hoses My guy here modified the lower ea81 radiator pipe with a bigger outlet that pointed in a way that the lift kit would appreciate 90 degree elbow but for the ea82 radiator hes taking the inlet and outlet pipes and swapping them This way the top one will have a 90 degree bend and point right into the ej water pipe and the lower one will be a straight out outlet Ill still have to use flex radiator hoses from Napa that have different inlet and outlet diameters but thats doable For my lower radiator hose my radiator has the outlets modified to match the size of the EJ22 with the lower outlet given a right angle bend down I will use Napa 9521 A right angle bend is not optimal as it reduces the clearance between the outlet and the radiator support corner brace 45deg would have been better or building the outlet to come an extra 1 2 1 from the radiator before bending down would have been better I m also going to mention here that you ll need to replace the lines that run to the firewall and then into the Heater Core They re the same ID but longer Pre formed hose is not necessary simply take a piece of your old line 5 8 ID 1f I m not mistaken in to Napa and tell them you need about 3 feet of it and 4 hose c
6. wire except one makes for a much lighter simpler harness So if you know where the connector goes and therefore know 1f you ll need use it you ll know if you can cut out that wire or not So pay close attention as you pull things out of the donor car it Il make things simpler in the long run First off the relays You ll only need 2 The Main Ignition Relay Brown and the Fuel pump relay Green Connector You will use the EA starter relay as it s already wired in where it s needed These 2 relays are located in the far upper left hand corner of the dash all the way back near the firewall essai Up E s E Es 4 i pm o E P sf ri LI i d em i Et 4 X ZS 1 E M d 1 E E A al 1 La m As i UN F Circled here in red 1s the SMJ or Super Multiple Junction more on this later and in blue are the 2 green Test mode connectors The black read mode connectors and the yellow select monitor will be near this You ll want to save these for future troubleshooting A f 228 There s the Main relay again from below In the foreground you can see one of the headlight relays with the white connector You ll use the EA headlight relays so these can be removed Also of note you won t need to use any of the stock legacy fuse panels The engine control system only needs a little power You can string one wire Next cruise control If your car was equippe
7. wire it to a switch inside so you can manually turn it off when going through water if it s on while underwater the blades will probably bend and take out your radiator EAS skinny fan fits fine in front of A C condenser with the radiator support and hood latch removed Replace the center radiator support with two 1 3 supports and use hood pins May not flow enough air though haven t driven it yet Tube bumper instead of stock will help with airflow 3 8 The EJ cars only have an idiot Oil pressure light not a gauge There are a few ways to approach this Solution 1 wire a light into the harness and mount it on the dash And ignore the gauge Solution 2 plumb in your EA82 sender this is doable with about 50 worth of adapters and lines available from Paragon Performance in CA contact M Rose 88hatchmonster on USMB for more details on this approach Solution 3 Buy an aftermarket gauge kit Many of the companies that make these offer a metric sender kit that theoretically should be a direct replacement for the stock sender under the alt 9 The resistance on the temperature sending units is calibrated differently So if you wire it straight into the EA dash the gauge will read about half As usual there are a couple solutions Solution 1 Live with 1t 1t s not that bad but if the gauge reads normal or what would be with the stock motor you re motor is overheating Mine barely moves past the C mark for operatin
8. 55MM the rear axles you may have to buy adapters to mount the EJ inners to the EA axles cost 6 each from rockford CV 2 The bolt pattern for the flywheel on the EA cars is a bit smaller than the EJ and is also asymmetrical so that the timing marks are aligned correctly The EJ series cam timing marks are on the crank pulley and since the ignition timing is computer controlled there s no need for the ignition timing marks so the bolt pattern 1s symmetrical The ideal way to do this is have a local machine shop weld the holes shut and then redrill them But another way to do it I did it this way with great results 1s to use the flexplate or flywheel from the EJ as a pattern and grind the holes out on the EA flywheel with a Dremel The pilot bearing hole fits perfectly on the crank so you can t get it off center And you re modifying almost the exact same amount on all sides of the flywheel and very close to the center so balancing it isn t much of a problem although a shop could balance it for about 30 Either an XT6 or a 4 cyl EA82 flywheel can be used however the XT6 flywheel is a bit lighter than the 4 cyl version So for faster revs street use the XT6 one is preferable And for better low rpm torque offroad the 4 cyl one would be more helpful 3 An XT6 Pressure Plate should be used to hold the extra torque hp only if keeping the EA transmission If using an EAS transmission the important part is the pressure pla
9. I hope with this write up to compile all the available information on the EJ swap into an EA series car specifically a Phase I OBD I N A EJ22 into an EA81 or EA82 The lightweight EA series chassis is the perfect candidate for the efficient powerful 16 valve MPFI EJ22 With the information included here you should be able to do this swap with just a Chilton s manual But a Haynes and a Factory Service Manual would help The First thing to remember when doing something like this is that every situation is different And you ll have to figure some stuff out on your own to make it all work Not everything will be covered exactly in this write up But it should get you off to a huge start If you re having problems don t hesitate to post a question on the Ultimate Subaru Forums at www ultimatesubaru org Links M Rose Great source for the Adapter plates http www mroseusa com Checklist Table of Contents Transmission Flywheel Clutch Pressure Plate Motor Mounts Fuel delivery Radiator Radiator Fan s Oil Pressure Gauge Temp Gauge 10 Exhaust 11 Misc Engine Bay adaptations 12 Wiring O 0 JC UU E WN Hm la The input shaft on the EA series transmissions are about a 1 2 longer than those on the EJ series ones And the upper 2 bolts in the bellhousings are also in slightly different places An adapter plate will correct both of these issues These adapter plates are available through M Ros
10. ach stretched differently in the section with the accordion joint fortunately they charge 3 each per plenum where I get my parts my plenum is a legacy plenum I redrilled the holes in the airbox and I planed 2 3mm off of the edges of the MAF where it would bump the airbox This 1s a run of the mill hardware store clamp of some sort used to mate the intake plenum to the MAF It has a rubber liner inside of the steel clamp I cut the rubber liner lengthwise and narrowed the diameter by a few cm and glued it back to itself with black RTV silicone to great effect I then glued it onto the intake boot with more RTV and slightly beveled the lip inside the sleeve one end of the tube is a little narrower than the other IIRC I could get more of these from wherever I got them if anybody would like Both sets of power steering lines have the same fittings on either end So either set can be used However the Legacy ones are shaped for the location of the legacy power steering pump so they will fit better I used the ones from the Loyale the routing was a little odd but it works fine The fittings between the hard lines leading to the Power steering rack EA82 match the EJ ones you will have to bend the lines a bit but they will thread into the flex lines leading up to the pump This connection is down on the crossmember right by the passenger side axle 12 And last but certainly not least Wiring Now keep in mind that the EJ22 is
11. d with it you ll have the control box and relay If not the wiring and connectors will still be there This 1s a good place to start thinning out the harness when it comes time to do so So make a note where these wires are and label them so when the time comes you ll know what it 1s The cruise control unit is the large grey box here and the smaller black thing above it 1s the relay that controls it Also you can see the large blue and white connectors that disappear underneath the carpet These go back to the brake lights turn signals trunk light rear door locks etc etc You will not need any of this The fuel pump wire is in there but you can splice that in from closer to the relay And another legacy interior minus dash shot wee j wu Tw Fi a amu P ad P La This car 1s receiving an aftermarket ECU so the stock ECU connectors will be cut off and new ones spliced on This 1s why all the wires coming from those connectors are marked But this wouldn t be a bad idea in an EJ swap either as it will help you identify wires later In the background you can see the 2 connectors circled in Red These go up into the dash for the gauges You ll only need a handful of wires from there oil pressure light temp gauge tach and Vehicle Speed Sensor Do not start cutting these wires out until you ve identified the ones you ll need to save OMA T ER 14 a 4 a You ll also need to safely resc
12. e O AT N Range O Other 8 min Other 8 min Neutral switch MT N Position 8 IMT N Position 8 min CE Parking ween iar ow o AES oS O a A TERT JW m Mi Cao NT a CUN UM kene 7 m e ot s CNM L eme m 9 EM OE Ng S 3 amp 1 1 LEE M A RT SE Bag 73 1 ana ARR aii ep ee Ee wae we oe MAM mr lgnition TURBO 43 ea ra e Momo Dom wo e i i ae a EAS PR eee E 1 w UE al bo EM i wA Je 26 10 13 10 1 ww 7 1 min after ignition owe re a w ll mme comes ro 1 B OPEN ond no ae ee mom TI sic ON ON 0 Fuel pump relay control F47 OFF 10 13 ON 0 ON 0 Air conditioner cut relay control OFF 33 14 A d 3 i S OFF 10 13 OFF 13 14 Self shutoff control 47 wm 313 14 Wastegate control TURBO only 10 12 13 14 Press solenold valv TURBO ony ees m re au ff I Engine tachometer cut e 18 pogo coractecerowine m o ont oi Atmospheric pressure sensor Non EEN 500 E im I HW CC DEIA E OA Ee ND t LJ p o E I E E W l 1 OND ignition system Fa w o 9 GND ipower supp M 4 s di LIEN m To Ll mm ete
13. e or can be made yourself Homemade adapter plates may not center the bellhousings relative to each other via the 4 pins on the sides paying for a precision laser CNC cut plate may be worth it If the bellhousings are not centered perfectly 1t will pressurize the transmission input shaft in the direction of the misalignment risking failure of the transmission input shaft front bearing Here s a picture of the adapter plate that 91Lovale made The offset Studs were made using a jig to hold them while we welded You thread them into the engine slap the plate on and it locks them in position then slide the transmission on a put the 4 nuts on gt Also a pitch stopper bracket and stopper from an XT will bolt onto the transmission and up to the firewall without modification on an EA82 EA81s have the mount on the firewall off center So you ll have to be a little creative Ib If you re swapping in the EJ transmission a custom driveshaft will need to be used and you ll need to make sure you have front axles that match the inner spline count all EJ cars use 25 spline except FWD Imprezas which use 23 spline turbo EA82s use 25 spline all other EA cars use 23 Or you can do a 5 lug swap using EJ front knuckles and use EJ axles And you ll also need to shorten the linkage An EJ transmission will bolt right up if you use the front and rear X member peaces from an XT 6 and the center piece from a WRX The drive shaft has to be shortened
14. er hood wiring Tara No Nim B 1 Air flow meter Dropping resistor AT A C pressure switch FWD switch AT A S front solanoid RH A S front sensor RH Wiper motor lanitor Brake fluid level sensor A S compressor relay A S front solenoid LH A S front sensor LH ABS front sensor LH Starter Magnet Transmission AT Transmission cord MT Transmission AT Cam angle sensor Crank angle sensor Knock sensor Os sensor Cruise control pump ABS front sensor RH ABS G sensor MT Pressure exchange solenoid valva Turbo model Pressure sensor Turbo modal Wastegate control solenoid valve Turbo model Daytime running light resistor CANADA model 111 2 BULKHEAD WIRINC 1 0702 RNESS AND GROUND POINT 2 3 4 A T Beie AA it a Ee um ES 25 sE B C D A B model Fig 96 2 WIRING DIAGRAM AND TROUBLESHOOTING 4 SENSOR VALVE SOLENOID ETC ABS G sensor Non TURBO ABS G sensor TURBO A S charge amp olenoid A S compressor Blower motar resistor By pass air control valve Cam angle sensor CPC solenoid Crank angle sensor Cruise control pump Non TUREO Cruise contro pump TURBO Daytime running light resistor Non TURBO Dropping resistor Non TURBO Dropping resistor TURBO Fuel gauge unit Igniter Non TURBO 1 Engine Room Non TURBO ESAS A Fig 83 5 Fig 84 5 Fig 83 6 Fig 83 6 Fig 86 3 Fi
15. f O E c emma L t Control Unit Pin Identification Information thanks to USMB members S8HatchMonster ShawnW Baccaruda Bratsrus gt 91Loyale Ballitch Suberdave 5 yegoshin Also I can be contacted by email or MSN messenger at Numbchux Gmail com On Aol or Yahoo instant messenger at NumbchuxSOAD Feel free to contact me with questions comments or updates Matt Chux Alexander
16. g 85 2 Fig 85 5 Fig 85 1 Fig 85 6 Fig 83 5 Fig 84 5 Fig 83 4 Fig 84 4 Fig 84 4 Fig 86 1 Fig 83 1 Igniter TURBO Key lock solenoid Knock sensor Mode actuator Pressure exchange solenoid valve Pressure sensor P W circuit breaker Os sensor Non TURBO Oz sensor TURBO Shift lock solenoid Thermometer Throttle sensor Water temperature sensor Waste gate control solenoid pec See rea af K A ESAS 0604 6 3 Fig 84 1 Fig 86 5 Fig 85 4 Fig 864 Fig 84 3 Fig 84 3 Fig 86 6 Fig 83 2 Fig 84 2 Fig 86 2 Fig 85 2 Fig 85 3 Fig B5 2 Fig 84 3 TES EST Seck D SE ES E A VA am WES n c e EA AA AA TS GE IRA E LE n NI i B6 315 B6 680E 99 i WIRING DIAGRAM AND TROUBLESHOOTING 0604 6 3 3 Engine Intake manifold Oil pressure switch hr NB e SE Crank sor rank angle sens q JO f IR Fig 85 6 B6 334 Fig 85 5 B6 335 101 Ok now that you ve got stuff figured out and labeled start taking it out Unplug everything and start removing the harness You ll need to remove the driver s side fender and disassemble the fuse relay box under the hood to get it out You ll also need to strip the dash out all the way down to the firewall which means disconnecting the heater core lines com
17. g temp Solution 2 Weld a bung for an EA82 temp sensor into a sleeve and put it inline with your upper radiator hose Solution 3 Aftermarket gauge sender Same deal as the oil pressure gauge Solution 4 In theory you could wire a 275 Ohm resistor from the wire between the sender and the gauge to ground like this resistor gauge temp sender gauge power lead from the cluster ground I do not know of anyone doing this successfully but it should work If you have done it please contact me with a confirmation 10 Exhaust If you want a complete exhaust system you ll have to have most of it custom made As the stock EA system won t be compatible with the motor nor with any other part of the EJ exhaust And the EJ exhaust 1s routed differently so it won t fit right on an EA car SUCK BECAUSE THAT SMALL DIA PIPE WILL CHOKE YOUR CAR TO NO END JUST LIKE MINE P Or you can do what I did and use the stock legacy y pipe and mid pipe with no axle back muffler In my case the legacy donor car had 240k miles on it so there wasn t really anything left of the cats This setup makes for a pretty throaty sound and it s the right price but will be replaced with a full custom setup soon When doing the swap into an EA81 car the cat will need to be shifted a bit to keep from hitting the crossmember 88HatchMonster I made a small cut in the right side pipe so I could shift the cat away from the There
18. i MIST W 1 AR Lm 4 el a a i n LEM e 1 m B To 1 LEM ji Wem LL be 4 6 enoroupu waveform Ba s 0 o0 eae s 1 n L 88 1 o Sensor output waveform M 2 pil u6 n 3 BT y Bes 0 13 GA su 9 9e ais L pa wm O 8 MMA Fully closed 4 7 Fully closed 4 7 Sol em a Throttle sensor Powersuppy 858 3 NM AM E Shield Be 7 o Rem 5 A i AT 0 8 Rich mixtura 9 7 AT 1 0 MT Bon oci se e MT O Lean mixture O ATL 02 MT Rich mixture 1 0 wo e me e o Shield Ba v A o A Se 5 3 4 aa ees Shield Bsa a lv _ o Water temperature sensor Be 7 a w 27 10 A erwemup Vehicle speed sensor B58 11 deckt han velis K driven Signal Be 4 w 3 24e27 TURBO ao Pwespw Be 3 E s f lide switch n gs e ON 0 OFF 48 ong oras 49 state and Canada California ess ln Ml 49 state and Canada 12 identification l California Q Starter switch e w o 9 Cening oon Air conditioner switch B56 9 ON 10 13 OFF 0 ON 13 14 OFF 0 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon 4WD F4 2 2L SOHC Copyright 2006 ALLDATA 8 81 Page Ignition switch AT N Rang
19. lamps to match don t try to reuse those crappy factory clamps Then cut 2 pieces the right length and clamp them in place You may want to put a 90 coupler to angle them down around the starter if you re running with a lift like this The part number for the heater hoses I used is Napa 10868 x2 Each is a long hose with a right angle bend at each end I trimmed a few inches out of the middle of each making 4 shorter hoses with right angle bends Then I put right angle heater hose elbow from the HELP aisle at the auto parts store to push them up over the starter wiring etc 7 Typically after this conversion there isn t enough room between the radiator and the engine for the Radiator Fans You ll need to replace them with 1 or 2 aftermarket ones and put them on the grill side of the radiator if you re keeping the A C you ll have to get a little creative since the A C condenser will limit that space hint ditch the A C I went to Advanced Auto and they have a 12 aftermarket radiator fan made by Imperial that can be mounted on either side of the radiator and has little clips that pull through the radiator itself No need for any fancy mounting hardware The same company makes an automatic fan relay with a remote heat sensor that attaches to the radiator in the same way this simplifies the wiring and makes the operation of the fan automatic if this is in an offroad rig and there s any chance that the fan will become submerged
20. oses The EJ Radiator hoses are a 1 1 2 ID inner diameter whereas the EA ones are 1 1 4 Solution I the one I used use bushings to change the ID of the hose Napa sells these They re little pieces of hose with a 1 1 2 OD outer diameter and a 1 1 4 ID with a lip on one end These can be slipped into the larger hose lip keeps if from sliding in too far and the clamped onto the smaller end I used the legacy hoses I simply trimmed about 1 2 off the ends of the upper hose and the bottom one worked pretty well since I m using a loyale radiator since the lower port comes out almost straight out instead of at a steep upward angle Solution 2 have a radiator shop braze larger inlets onto your radiator Solution 3 use a muffler pipe reducer and 2 pieces of hose this 1s a pretty small muffler pipe so it may be hard to come by it was for me Solution 4 Use the smaller size hose and force it around the larger inlet on the engine WD40 and or soapy water will help it slip on Solution 5 Napa sells 2 kinds of flex hose One has coiled wire inside the center of the hose and regular rubber hose on the ends The other kind they sell is an RV boat type hose that I think is suited for submersion or something special but its an absolute 1 to work with Avoid the second kind The ones that are PERFECT are the ones that are flex in the middle only and are all different lengths and they have some with different size ends You
21. pletely as well as the A C lines Try not to cut any wires until it s all out just to be safe Now once it s all out of the car you can start reducing it to just the necessary engine control harness Start by cutting stripping all the electrical tape and plastic loom from the harness Then find a connector somewhere that you know you won t be using Cruise 1s a good place to start and start cutting out wires Go one wire at a time and trace it as far back into the harness as possible and cut it off If it splits cut it before the split Then proceed to identify the wires from there cutting them off if you know they re unnecessary the cruise needs some signals from the ECU and such things needed for other parts of the engine management so don t just cut everything out As you re going through take note of all the necessary power and ground wires Grounds are usually black obviously and powers are yellow or occasionally red There ll only be a few power wires but you ll be tying them together into 2 different ones one switched and one straight from the battery Just keep working through the harness eliminating stuff you won t need Don t cut anything out unless you know it won t be used This can most easily be done from the interior side out since there are far more connectors that won t be used Under the dash you ll only need the 4 ECU plugs all yellow power and ground for that the 2 relays and wiring for those and wiring
22. rrugated plastic wiring loom Then string it through the holes in the inner fender and into the engine bay The actual ECU mounting bracket 1s different on the EJ22 than an EA cars so you ll have to be pretty creative I just used lots of zip ties to keep everything from moving around and stuffed the ECU and harness up under the steering column You ll need to tap in a wire from the ignition switch to the ECU so it can essentially choke the engine while cranking ECU wire needs 12v when cranking see attached ECU pinout The EA82 system as this same circuit but the switch grounds the wire to the ECU to engage it on the EA82 so you ll need to string your own wire You ll also need to hook up the rest of the wires under the dash There s one wire pin 11 on B56 in the pinout below that designates a California model Be sure this wire 1s not erounded unless the donor car really was a California model this distinction is not made in the diagrams Once again make sure the car starts and runs before putting the dash panel and fender back on If it does reassemble the car double check all fluids etc and enjoy your new motor 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon 4WD F4 2 2L SOHC Copyright 2006 ALLDATA 8 81 Page 1 Engine Control Module Diagrams Signal M gt Content Terminal la SW et Note L OFF TON Engine Ger Nino ON lina Les 1 o0 Sermsoroutputwavetam LM 2 m ww wl oc
23. st of the EJ harness supplies power to everything in the EJ harness requiring power 1 e ignition coil injectors ECU etc The wire on the ignition switch simply marked with a gets 12v power from within the EA harness already You just have to tap into the switched side of it If you d like you can wire a manual rocker switch instead of the on setting of the ignition switch This would do 3 things 1 Kill switch hide the switch if someone gets into your car it still will not start without flipping that switch 2 The key will still be necessary to actually start 1t leave the starter relay wired to the ignition switch 3 You ll be able to leave the car running to warm up without the ignition on 1 e no headlights radio etc AND the steering column remains locked Be sure to wire your radiator fan into this circuit as well hate to have it overheat while it s warming up To the Rest ofthe EJ Harness To Starter Now before taping anything together or installing the harness completely plug it into the engine and ECU Then solder up your powers and grounds and the fuel pump wire And see if it starts 1f you d like contact me and I ll send you a video of my wagon when it first started You can see the ECU and wiring harness draped over the driver s door I would highly recommend making sure it runs before fully installing the harness Once you know it runs you can wrap it with electrical tape and put it in co
24. te Get one for an XT6 You ll also need to get a throw out bearing for an 85 Nissan 720 pickup to run that PP with an EAS 4spd The stock EA81 clutch plate is more than adequate when paired with an XT6 pressure plate i For money sake specifically I was virtually broke and happen to have a normal EA82 clutch kit already I used the 4 cyl disc and pressure plate and so far it s held Knock on wood 4 Use the EJ motor mounts and widen the mounting holes in the crossmember slightly somewhere between 1 4 to 1 2 on either side A Dremel or similar rotary tool with a grinding stone works great for this EA82 crossmember accepts the motor mount holes without widening round EJ mounts EJ mounts may have a centering nipple that needs to be ground off as there 1s no receiving hole in the EA crossmember as there is in the EJ crossmember 5 You ll need a fuel pump from a Fuel Injected EA car if yours isn t already to supply the necessary fuel pressure The pressure regulator is built into the fuel rails on the EJ motor so the inline ones can be removed little things on the lines right near the Throttle Body Some say that if you ve got a carbureted car you ll need to upgrade your fuel lines to fuel injection grade If upgrading from an EA81 a surge tank may be necessary to prevent fuel starve when cornering with under 1 4 tank of fuel 6 The EA radiator is plenty to cool a non turbo EJ motor The challenge lies in hooking up the h
25. ue the group of wires that passes through the firewall behind the ductwork in the middle This is a big job but there are dozens of wires in the cluster that you ll need You can also disconnect the SMJ see pic above to simplify removal of the harness It s very easy to identify later and will drastically simplify the removal process Factory Service manual pages 4 BULKHEAD Wil 1 No mes GIS shoulder belt limit switch Pole color ares mo 5 5 mm gt No B81 B82 Cruise control unit Front wiring harness Power window main harness SM J Front wiring harness SMJ Blower relay AT control unit Instrument panel wiring harness Clutch switch MT AT control unit Check connector MPFI control unit Select monitor connector MPFI control unit MPFI contro unit Shield joint connector Stop and Brake switch with cruise control Stop light switch Key warning Switch Key tock solenold ignition switch Combination switch Crulse contro sub switch Combination switch Combination switch Lighting switch AT shift lock control unit Diode Lighting Evaporator thermoswitch AJC cut relay FRESH RECIRC actuator Blower motor resistor Blower motor Rear wiring harness Front door cord RH 115 Inhibitor relay AT cruise control Main relay
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