Ornamental Mouldings 1612SAMPLE Installation Guide
Contents
1. fill the holes using wood filler Touch up where necessary with paint or stain2. 709 1713 OML34 OML35 OML36 Bevel angle Miter angle Type of Cut tilt of blade swing of table 90 corner 30 353 45 corner 16 17 55 Crown Moulding Profiles 784 834 Bevel angle Miter angle Type of Cut tilt of blade swing of table 90 corner 23 39 5 Mouldings Made Easy Miterless Installation Ornamental Mouldings takes the miters out of moulding installation with the Easitrim Miterless System You can trim out virtually an entire room without ever cutting a mitered joint Simply use our pre fit inside and outside corner units with any standard cornice and baseboard moulding and use corner blocks and plinth blocks to complete window and door casings It s that easy Here s how Pre finish all mouldings and corner pieces Install the Easitrim corners with finishing nails and glue Pre drill all corners before nailing Measure the inside length between two corner pieces Mark this distance on the moulding and using a square draw a line from top to bottom Cut the moulding at 90 degrees Sand ends lightly Fit the moulding between the corners securing with finishing nails Countersink the nail heads using a nail set and
3. Moulding and Accessories Installation Guide General Installation Tips and Tricks Always acclimate your wood to your surroundings The structure should be fully enclosed with doors and windows in place and interior climate controls operating for at least 48 hours to stabilize the moisture conditions of the interior The wood should then be set indoors and allowed to sit for at least 24 hours prior to installation This will allow the moisture content of the wood to adjust to your normal living conditions and help prevent movement after installation Double check your measurements prior to cutting Measure twice cut once Oak should be pre drilled before nailing This prevents splitting and cracking Corner blocks plinth blocks and base corners should be installed before casings and baseboards Crown mouldings should be cut using a power miter saw When measuring for a miter cut always mark the top of the moulding at the back Place the crown upside down against the back fence of the saw Position the saw at 45 degrees to make the cut Please see the Mitering and Coping section below for more help with compound miter cuts Helpful Tools amp Suggested Materials e e ooo oo Hammer e Putty Pencil e Carpenter s glue Carpenter s square e Tape measure Nail set e 1 1 2 finishing nails Miter saw Sanding block Coping saw Stud sensor Wood files e Safety glasses Ornament amp Corbel Installation Ornaments shoul
4. d be applied using finishing nails and glue Select an adhesive appropriate to your particular application and substrate When applying ornaments to a previously finished surface lightly rough up the area of application with sand paper first to promote adhesion Apply a light coat of glue to the back of the ornament and secure in place with finishing nails Counter sink the nails with a nail punch apply putty sparingly and touch up the paint or stain Mounting hardware is provided with all corbels Please take care to secure large corbels or shelf brackets to a wall stud or a sufficiently sturdy structure to bear the necessary weight Negotiating the Corners Mitering amp Coping A miter cut is a cut made straight across the grain of the wood at any angle other than 90 degrees Mitering is the basic installation method for mouldings A miter joint is recommended for outside moulding corners as well as window and door casings The most common miter cut is at 45 degrees where two pieces join together to form a 90 degree angle These cuts should typically be made with a miter saw or a miter box A compound miter joint is required for outside cornice corners A compound miter is a cut that angles in two different directions at the same time See our angle guide below for help with compound cuts Coping is an alternative to mitered corners in which the moulding profile or shape is duplicated to fit tightly against the face of the adjoining
5. moulding This technique is recommended when mouldings are installed to an inside corner because cope cuts are more flexible and will help prevent joint separation as the building or structure settles Coping involves cutting one piece of moulding flat on one end to butt tight against the wall Figure 1 Then make a miter cut on the intersecting piece of moulding Figure 2 The exposed profile serves as a guideline for the coping saw Follow the profile with the coping saw at a right angle to the moulding face Figure 3 This cut results in a duplication of the moulding pattern that will then fit tightly against the face of the first moulding Figure 4 The adjoining piece of moulding is coped cut out to fit the profile of the original piece at a right angle Due to the precision and tools required to cope moulding we recommend that this type of installation be done by a professional or highly skilled do it yourselfer Figure 1 Figure 2 5 7 ee AET a gt Figure 4 Figure 3 Angle Guide for Compound Miter Cuts 38 Crown Moulding Profiles 687 688 707 712 809 1687 1688 1707 Bevel angle Miter angle Type of Cut tilt of blade swing of table 90 corner 33 9 31 6 45 angle 17 14 5 45 Crown Profiles 685 686 706 709 713 830 1068 1069 1704 1
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