T-90 Rebuild Guide The T-90 Rebuild Video can now be purchased
Contents
1. shaft 4e5 Lifting the gear while holding the cardboard over the end lay the cluster Gear on its side 4e6 While holding Tool A in place push the needle bearings into the shaft using Tool C eee and remove Tool B 4e7 Again using the cardboard to hold the bearings and spacers in place stand the Cluster gear onto its small end 4e8 Install the 24 bearing washer and 22 needle bearings j 4e9 Lifting the gear while holding the cardboard over the end lay the cluster Gear on its side 4e10 While holding Tool A in place push the needle bearings into the shaft using Tool D and remove Tool C 4e11 Stand the Cluster gear back onto its large end 4e12 Install the 34 bearing washer and 22 needle bearings followed by the 4 washer 4e13 Using the cardboard to hold the bearings in place stand the Cluster gear one last time back onto its small end and remove Tool D It may be necessary to insert tool B part of the way into the shaft to remove Tool D 4e14 Install 5th bearing washer and 22 needle bearings followed by 6 washer This completes the assembly of the Countershaft Cluster Gear assembly Note The last tranny I built had 4 washers of clearance left after installing the cluster gear bearings and washers If allowed to ride like this the bearings can migrate and twist in the cluster gear I added these washers into the count for the bearings I never put more than two washers together in the buildup T2. 012 and 018 of clearance This should be obtained using thrust washer shims I ve never seen one that had that much clearance They usually have less than 005 clearance and I haven t had any trouble with them Dr Vern The rear countershaft thrust washer gave me fits when it was time to lift the gear into place to install the countershaft It kept staying down not lining up Then I looked at how the keyed tabs were oriented I had them aligned vertically at first When I turned the gear 90 degrees so the key tabs were horizontal the thrust washer did not slip down as I lifted the gear into place Rick Some cluster gears do not have the slots cut into the small end for the tabs to fit into If yours does not you will need to either flatten the tabs or break them off 4m Place the reverse idler gear in position with the larger center hub boss pointing forward Install Reverse Idler Gear Shaft from the rear of the case Watch the position of the locking plate slot Do not install the shaft all the way or you will not be able to install the locking plate An If you have the shim identified by Merl and you wish to use it install it on the mainshaft now I feel these were only used to compensate for worn parts so with all new bearings and blocking rings you should not need them Ao Install the second speed gear onto the mainshaft with the blocking ring mating surface pointing forward Ap Place the rear blocking ring on the se
3. only to still have the same problem with gears grinding during the 2nd and 3rd up shift After going back and replacing the crankshaft pilot bushing the problem went away Mike Harris wrote Joe Van Slyke amp I got together Sunday to rebuild his T90 it seemed to go well but had a few if not problems at least some questions Joe also got my thumb a good one w the ball peen proof that it s better to have an assistant so s you have someone else s thumb to hit First the tranny was apart when I got there and I think Joe said he d gotten the tranny and transfer case from separate sources and already in pieces I could be wrong though Not being there for most of the disassembly was a major hindrance to reassembly as we had to figure what went where from a poor quality exploded drawing Joe also got a big box of extra duplicated parts which really came in handy It allowed us to evaluate each piece side by side and pick the one in best shape creating a franken tranny No oil collector was in the tranny but we had one in the spares may have been damaged because we had to grind off a little bit of the lip at the top to accommodate the mainshaft General comment Rick practiced several times before the real deal We didn t practice and I think that if you skip this step you should plan for and expect that you will be forced to practice or redo at least a couple of times before it all comes together perfectly To avoid confusion I
4. 5 minutes I was using a cheap C Clamp of very poor quality so here s what I suggest If you are going to use Danny s procedure use the largest highest quality clamp you can fit into the case and take your time Danny s clamp looks a lot better than the one I was using and he s already proven it can be done So have fun and if you use this method please let me know how it goes 2z Remove the main bearing snap ring using flat edged snap ring pliers 2aa Hold the main drive gear by the bearing and gently tap the small end of the shaft onto a board Sluntil the bearing slides down and off the gear shaft Rick Grover An alternative is several taps with the brass hammer Worked for me 2bb Remove the front bearing washer noting the direction the lip fits on the bearing 2cc Slide the cuica synchronizer plates inspection 2ee Remove the clutch hub from the mainshaft You may find that the clutch hub will not want to slide off the main shaft after you have removed the snap ring Holding onto the clutch hub while gently tapping the mainshaft with a brass hammer will usually coax it off Warning years of the clutch sleeve sliding on the clutch hub can cause very sharp edges to develop Use caution when handling the sleeve and hub 2ff Remove the synchronizer springs from the hub 2gg Remove the rear blocking ring from the mainshaft 2hh Remove the second speed gear from the mainshaft 211 Merl has descr
5. An easier way to check this is to install new bearings in the race and insert the mainshaft into the bearing There should be virtually no wobble of the shafts If this fit is loose it will cause the pilot bushing in the engine crankshaft to wear out quickly Check the gear teeth and blocking ring teeth for signs of wear and breakage The beveled surface the blocking ring rides on should be smooth and free of cracks or pits of these items is damaged you should replace the Main Drive Gear If any Long Shaft and Short Shaft Main Drive Gears have been identified as being different in more ways than just length The long shaft has an oil hole drilled from the inside of the pilot bearing race to the other side of the front main bearing race It is the dark spot in the bottom as shown in the picture It is easier to see in this photo taken from the other side If you install a sealed bearing during installation you must seal this hole or the transmission will leak 4 Countershaft gear Oil Collector should be examined for cracks and dents If damaged replace it Many people recommend leaving this assembly out of the transmission but I recommend against this The Oil Collector retains oil around the front end of the Countershaft Cluster Gear This feeds oil into the needle bearings In the event that you ran low on oil the collector would continue to feed oil onto the bearings The Oil Collector will also help to prevent the oil from foaming at hig
6. Merl My T90 rebuild is finally done and I must say that it went along much easier than I had expected I used Rick s rebuild guide and a blowup picture for part name reference never even looked at the shop manual for instructions on the rebuild Overall I ll give Rick s manual a hearty recommendation I m doing this from memory so I hope I m not leaving anything out but here are the more notable points and observations that I encountered As for my original problem T 90 shifts easily into R amp Ist never grinds at all even while rolling However after getting warmed up 2nd and 3rd would grind unless I shifted really slowly The main problem was the worn 3rd gear synchro riding up too high on the surface of the input shaft bevel The rear face of the synchro was scored where it had been hitting the small teeth of the input gear But the cause of this looked to be the two shims between the rear shoulder of the mainshaft and the bearing spacer I don t see these type shims in the shop manual early Universal Jeep and Rick said he hadn t come across them either They sit between the shoulder of the mainshaft and the bearing spacer They are cupped a little so that the outside circumference points in toward the large sliding gear 1st R My transmission had two of these My local parts guy Leo said that while not typically used they are used to adjust the mainshaft play He said that the idea was to align the rear face of the bearing spac
7. Use as little force as you can to prevent damage Whatever you do don t drive the shaft into the case Here is a helpful tip When driving out the reverse idler shaft stand the case on its tail end To do this place a 3 4 deep well socket over the end of the shaft and place 3 more deep well sockets around the bottom to provide good balance Have a second person hold the case in place and drive out the shaft This was much easier than trying to hold the case in place laying flat Mike Harris wrote Reverse idler was a bear We pounded it out using all thread since it was long amp flexible enough to get around the slight bend from the front of the case to the shaft Danny M has provided us with an alternative method of removing the reverse idler shaft Use a 4 inch C REZ a 3 8 drive Liz socket and a SME 3 4 deep well socket Install the C Clamp as shown ith the 1 2 socket against the inside end of the idler shaft 2 with the ET E slid over the outside end of the shaft It took a good bit of pressure and a couple of taps on the threaded end of the C Clamp Then you tighten it again and tap it again until the inside end of the C clamp bottoms out Once it breaks free it can easily be driven out the rest of the way with your drift I think Danny has a great deal more patience than I have I had a really stubborn shaft that I tried to remove this way and I ended up breaking my C Clamp Now mind you from start to breakage only took me
8. my lap Start at the top of the spring and using a large screw driver gently pry the spring over each spring retaining dog one at a time My first idea was to use a pair of vise grips and rotate the spring from the case This can be done but it is very hard on the spring and chews up where the vise grips bite It only takes about 2 minutes to do it with the screwdriver and it s much easier on the spring Once the spring is removed slide the shift lever out the bottom of the tower INSPECTION Now clean and inspect the shift tower case for cracks stripped threads For M 38 or damage of any kind Any cracked or otherwise damaged units should be replaced or repaired Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or bent M 38 Replace the gearshift shift tower cap if it is bent or has stripped threads Other T 90s Replace shift lever retaining ring if it is bent or broken Replace the second and high speed gears shifter rail and second and high speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn or if they are bent or distorted Any burs should be removed Replace the low and reverse speed gear shifter rail and low and reverse speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn or if they are bent or distorted On one of the ones I inspected there was a groove cut in the shift rail where the poppet ball rode Any burs should be removed M 38 Replace the 3 8 inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are stripped Replace the gearshift le
9. recommend 1 Make sketches notes of difficult assys especially 2 3 gear hub amp synchros amp rear bearing Every piece in the gearbox goes in 1 way and memory just wasn t good enough for me at least even just a few hours later 2 Keep old new parts separate 3 Lay out all parts in assembly order A separate section at the end of this instruction covers the Shift Tower You can get there quickly by clicking Here Special Tool Manufacture la Tool A is manufactured using a 3 4 wooden dowel rod Cut it to 6 7 8 long If the dowel rod has a rough finish it should be sanded smooth and the ends lightly rounded I did this using a 2 long drywall screw mounted in my drill I turned on the drill and screwed the screw into the end of the rod as soon as it snugged up the rod was spinning nicely It made sanding very easy Merl Make sure you test fit the dowel through the front and rear holes of the case prior to assembling the cluster gear sanding was required in my case Also check to insure that the shaft is not too long to fit into the case from the inside 2b Tool B is manufactured using a length of 1 diameter metal electrical conduit Cut it to 2 3 4 long with a hacksaw It must be cut straight and any burs removed Note Do not use plastic conduit because it is the wrong size Merl Look for conduit labeled 3 4 You might have to buy a long piece but it s dirt cheap Exact measurement of the electrical conduit
10. shaft as required the sealer had partially set and came apart in globs I had to scrape it clean and reseal it So if you plan to seal it like I did wait until just before installing the bearing retainer to add the sealer I also cut a piece from the snap ring of the old bearing and used it to fill the gap in the new bearing s snap ring Hopefully this will help me get a better seal without that big gap If you are not replacing the bearing a piece of thin metal the appropriate size would work just fine If you are using the stock front seal and open bearing this will not be needed Al Install the countershaft through the cluster gear from the rear of the case miimzabns It may be necessary to stand the case on its end to get the thrust washers to align with the soumienhall Take your time and don t use too much force to insert the countershaft If it isn t going in then washers aren t aligned properly It s ok to gently tap the end of the shaft with a brass hammer but any more force than that is too much As the countershaft slides in Tool A will slide out Let Tool A fall out on its own if possible This will help keep the thrust washers aligned Make sure the locking plate slot that is cut into the shaft is at a 90 degree angle to the case hole for the Reverse Idler Gear Shaft Do not install the shaft all the way or you will not be able to install the locking plate As per the manual once installed the cluster gear should have between
11. 90 bearing retainers that are machined to accept a metal neoprene seal When our tech rebuilds our T 90 s he said that he polishes the input shaft to give a better sealing surface Rick If you are not installing a sealed bearing I highly recommend buying these parts from Jason at Mile High Jeeps Rick Before ordering your new parts you should evaluate the expense involved with doing your rebuild When I first wrote this guide 1998 a complete rebuild of a T 90 with new bearings and seal ran about 125 and it still does A new T 90 came in between 500 and 700 so adding in another 200 worth of parts to your list still made sense In the last year the price of new T 90s has dropped dramatically You can buy a new T 90 without the shifter today Dec 2000 for 400 If your rebuild is going to cost you 300 in parts then you might want consider buying one of these trannys instead Therefore you should do a careful inspection of your parts prior to ordering new parts to determine what you will need Assembly Merl I have to highly recommend Rick s technique using the electrical conduit After I cut the tool A B C and D and finally understood the way Rick s method works I put newspaper on our kitchen table got my 6 amp 8 year old boys to count out 4 piles of 22 needle bearings each gave them a cup of grease and let THEM put the thing together Of course I supervised to make sure everything was going in the right order but the fact th
12. Last Updated November 12 2005 You can find the rest of my web pages here T 90 Rebuild Guide The T 90 Rebuild Video can now be purchased here Sorry if you wanted the Model 18 Transfercase Rebuild Guide you will need to go to Here In my search for detailed instructions for rebuilding a T 90 I found there was little in the way of helpful information available I did find a local transmission guru to answer some of my hardest questions Since I considered the service manual to be inadequate for a beginning rebuilder I bought a T 90 and practiced taking it apart and putting it back together again I have practiced it so many times now that I ve lost count so I feel somewhat qualified to pass on what I have learned I have successfully rebuilt over ten T 90s since I first posted this guide If you wish to follow these instructions you will need to manufacture the tools listed below If you prefer to use the heavy grease method of assembling the cluster gear please feel free to do so Just skip the instructions that require special tools and figure it out for yourself using an illustrated parts breakdown IPB I found that my hands are far too big to do that type of work so I made the special tools I describe below to assist me These procedures should work for every top shifted T 90 I know there are some step variations with the side shifted models but I haven t incorporated those into this guide Use these instructions at you own risk Even though over
13. a squealing noise I recommend changing it anyway This bearing may be changed with a sealed bearing but some things need to be changed if you do this Whatever bearing you choose make sure that it has the groove as shown in the picture This is where the front bearing snap ring sits and it is used to hold the bearing in place Richard Needham Well I made it out to the shop and found the bearing number for the front of the T 90 with the seal It s a SKF bearing but any good auto parts store should be able to cross reference to another brand SKF 6208 2RSNRJ EM Note You must remove the seal from the inside of the bearing to allow the 90W oil to lubricate the bearing Also there is a drain back hole in the front of the transmission that must be plugged if you use this bearing When you remove the 3 Allen bolts to take the cover off the front of the transmission you will see there are 4 holes in the transmission the one with no treads is the drain hole Plug it with silicone or tap it and use a small pipe plug Otherwise the sealed bearing will do no good because the oil will run out the drain hole I tried to locate the bearing that Richard used but was unable to find it I did some local research and found this sealed bearing MRC brand Part 208 SZZG I found them at Purvis Bearing in San Antonio 210 299 1010 They cost 31 25 At the time I authored this July 2000 and they had them in stock They said they would mail order them to cred
14. and tighten screws Aff Install the 15 reverse gear onto the mainshaft with the shift fork groove forward 4gg Install the rear bearing spacer on the mainshaft If you forget this part the mainshaft will have too much free play Abh Install the rear bearing adapter with the bearing onto the mainshaft This is also a press fit I used a 2 piece of the PVC pipe to drive the bearing down onto the shaft Merl The only other problem I had during assembly was getting the rear bearing pressed onto the mainshaft prior to inserting the mainshaft into the case I tried Rick s 2 PVC pipe technique but it tends to shoot small shards of plastic off into the bearing I wound up using a blunt nose chisel on the inner race a tap on the chisel with a hammer at 90 degree increments around the bearing race did the trick It should be noted at this point that even though Merl had success using a steel punch to drive the bearing on this is not a recommended practice On occasion I have been known to hammer steel on steel Sometimes this has met with success but on occasion I have had less than positive results Rick s recommendation below should be followed Rick Grover Brass hammer taps worked for when I did my T 90 I never hit anything with steel Get a brass hammer and or a brass punch They are about 10 each They get all dinged up and even shed little brass flakes sometimes but they do not scratch or mark the machined steel surfaces 4i1 The
15. at my 6 year old did most of the work should tell you how easy these tools make it plus my boys had a good time with the grease Mike Harris The dowel electrical conduit for the countershaft needle bearing assy made a fussy job easy This tool A tool B Tool C cha cha cha is the way to go Don t do it the conventional way unless you want to make yourself nuts trying to hold four rows of needle bearings in with grease with both 6 7 8 long index fingers using the other hand to hold the countershaft your other hand to hold the plastic hammer leaving your other hand free to hold the shop light to watch yourself catch a needle bearing with the countershaft amp drive it sideways into the case 4a Install the Front bearing washer onto the main drive gear This washer is a form fit washer and should be put on the shaft so that it will match the contour of the bearing Ab Install the main drive gear bearing onto the shaft with the snap ring slot forward Grease the shaft before installing the bearing This bearing is a press fit to the shaft but it can be installed using the following method Mike Harris We heated the front amp rear bearings by putting in a Ziploc and putting the bottom end of the Ziploc into boiling water boil in bag bearing yum This got the bearings hot enough that I don t think freezing was needed You must install the bearing onto the shaft in one quick motion or the bearing will contract around the shaft If the
16. bearing fails to seat all the way onto the shaft you can persuade it using a brass drift Make sure to only tap on the inside edge of the bearing cage If you use the outer edge of the bearing you could damage it Make sure the snap ring groove is forward or you will have to do it again bearing had to be removed and installed the right way If you think I did it just for the photo you don t know me very well Ac Install the snap ring onto the main drive gear using flat bladed snap ring pliers This snap ring holds the bearing on the main gear Ad Install the front bearing snap ring on the outside of the front bearing using flat bladed snap ring pliers This snap ring holds the front bearing in the case You are done with the Main Drive Gear for now 4e Assemble the Countershaft Cluster Gear assembly At each step that says install during the assembly of the Countershaft Cluster Gear use a liberal amount of grease 4el Stand the cluster gear on its large end on top of piece of cardboard and insert Tool A into the hole 4e2 Install Tool B and Countershaft Spacer over Tool A 3 7 E in that order Merl Make sure you grease the middle spacer I forgot But I was able to put a little light oil in the lube hole in the middle of the gear so I didn t take it all back apart 4e3 Install one bearing washer over Tool A 4e4 Install 22 needle bearings into the space left between Tool A and the Cluster Gear
17. cking plate In some cases this will be impossible and you will have drive the locking plate out of the reverse idler shaft 2q Remove the locking plate 2r Using tool A drive the countershaft out of the cluster gear Rick Grover When you say to drive the counter shaft out it should be driven out to the rear The front hole is a few thousandths smaller that the back hole Driving it out the front would be much harder and could stretch the front hole 2s Drop the cluster gear into the bottom of the case 2t Tap the main drive gear forward and out of the case E 2u Remove the oil collector 2v Remove the countershaft cluster gear 2w Remove the thrust washers from the case 2x Collect the pilot bearings and put them aside There is a set of needle bearings known as pilot bearings that fit inside the main gear These bearings are much larger than the bearings used in the cluster gear The nipple on the front end of the mainshaft rides on these bearings and they usually fall into the bottom of the case when the mainshaft 1s removed 2y Using tool E drive the reverse idler gear shaft out the back of the case This must be done from inside the case Caution do not attempt to drive the shaft into the case from the rear as this can damage the shaft and the case Remove the reverse idler gear from the case Some people have found it necessary to use a bent piece of rebar to drive the reverse idler gear out of the case
18. cond speed gear 4q Install the synchronizer springs into the clutch hub hey should be installed in opposite positions with one in the front and one in the rear One end of each spring should fit into the same synchronizer slot I have no idea why they are installed like this but every old transmission manual I have been able to find shows the springs installed this way If you installed them the other way I don t think it would hurt but why fight 50 years of experience Ar Slide the clutch hub onto the mainshaft with the longer narrow center boss pointed forward his photo shows the rear of the clutch hub with the shorter but wider boss Some folks have confused the direction of this hub during installation and this prevented the transmission from going together Clarification for this step provided by Doug Karr As Install the clutch hub snap ring 4t Heavily grease the synchronizer plates and hold them in place while installing the clutch sleeve over the hub There are three slots in the blocking ring that the synchronizer plates must fit into to install Make sure the shift fork groove is to the rear of the mainshaft It can go on the other way but it will prevent you from installing the shift tower later Au Stand the T 90 onto its front end with the main drive gear shaft hanging over the edge of the workbench 4ul Insert Tool A into the pilot bearing hole of main drive gear 4u2 Grease needle bearings and insert th
19. em into the main drive gear 4u3 Remove Tool A while rotating it Av If you have the large hole bearing adapter you will now install rear bearing in rear bearing adapter and install snap ring This bearing is also a press fit and can be tapped in using a brass drift If you have the small hole adapter the bearing will just sit in an shallow relief in the adapter 4w Place the T 90 back down flat 4x Slide the main drive gear as far forward in the case as possible Ay Slide the clutch sleeve as far forward as possible without releasing the synchronizer plates 4z Install the front blocking ring on the main gear with grease to hold it in place 4aa Install the mainshaft from the rear of the case and insert it into the pilot bearings You will need to lift the front of the mainshaft up over the second gear ring on the cluster gear and then allow it to drop into place in the pilot bearings If you can t get it to go over the second gear ring you don t have the clutch sleeve far enough forward on the mainshaft The three synchronizer plates will need to fit into the notches in the front blocking ring Abb Slide the main drive gear back into case until outside snap ring is firmly against the case Acc Install the screws in the Countershaft Cluster Gear Oil Collector Add Install the front bearing retainer gasket and bearing retainer oil seal if used Mine used a rubber seal installed in the bearing retainer 4ee Install the bearing retainer
20. er with the rear face of the bearing adapter When installed you want the rear faces of these two pieces to be flush Any misalignment should be on the side of not enough shims rather than too many It seems that the inside ring of the rear bearing rests on that spacer Too many shims between the shaft s shoulder and the spacer would cause the 3rd gear synchro to ride too close to the beveled input shaft all the time causing premature wear That s my theory anyway When I put it back together I did a test fit before I put the rear bearing on and decided to not put a shim back in there Another theory I have about this is that the tighter than normal mainshaft was allowing the smooth Ist R shift Maybe a sort of automatic double clutch thing happening in there SBart79631 wrote I would suggest that every time the tranny is removed or rebuilt that the bronze bushing in the center of the flywheel be replaced This is an inexpensive item and not too much more work to do The worst thing in the world is to rebuild the trans and have it go bad again in a couple hundred miles cause the input shaft is wobbling all over take it from me I learned the hard way Also in the excitement of completing the job a friend forgot to fill her up with gear lube and drove it around the block and right back up on the jack stands Steve 46cj2a restoration in 1972 currently working on 48 cj2a I agree with Steve on this I ve had several folks that have rebuilt their T 90s
21. evenly in the middle of the shift tower Depress the poppet ball and poppet ball spring using a blunt shaft Do not use a Sharp tipped instrument like a screwdriver or a nail and slide the rail in over the poppet ball to the second groove This is the neutral position Make sure the shift lever is to the inside of this rail also before installation Insert poppet ball spring and poppet balls into gearshift control housing on the second and high speed gears side Insert the second and high speed gears shifter rail into the gearshift control housing from the rear If you have difficulty getting the shaft to go in more than about 3 inches inspect the interlock pin to make sure it is out of the way By now the interlock pin must fit into the detent notch in the low side rail Note This interlock pin is not like the one on the model 18 transfer case If you remove this pin it will allow the transmission to shift into two gears at the same time This would effectively destroy a T 90 DO NOT REMOVE THE PIN Slide the second and high speed gears shifter fork onto the rail Note it is easy to put this fork on backwards if you aren t careful When it is properly installed the fork should fall evenly in the middle of the shift tower Depress the poppet ball and poppet ball spring using a blunt shaft and slide the rail in over the poppet ball to the second groove This is the neutral position Situate the shift lever so that it falls in between both the Low shif
22. ew knob for the shifter it would not fit the current thread I bought a grade 5 bolt with the right threads and cut the head off of it Then I ground down a releaf on the bolt and shifter and MIG welded the bolt on I al quenched the finished product and ground it down smooth I now have a beautiful shifter that the know screws right onto M 38 Install shift lever back into the shift tower and secure with gearshift shift tower cap Other T 90s Turn shift tower upside down and install shift lever into the tower make sure the positioning pin seats in the notch on the shift lever ball Slide spring down over the shift lever and pop the spring over the retaining dogs one notch at a time with a large screw diver This took me about 20 minutes the first time I did it but now I can do it in about 2 minutes Just don t loose patience with it Make sure the shift lever is to the inside of the rail before installation Insert poppet ball spring and poppet balls into gearshift control housing on the low and reverse speed gears side Insert the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing from the rear If you have difficulty getting the shaft to go in more than about 3 inches inspect the interlock pin to make sure it is out of the way Slide the low and reverse speed gears shifter fork onto the rail Note it is easy to put this fork on backwards if you aren t careful When it is properly installed the fork should fall
23. fifty T 90s have been rebuild using them there are still probably a few glitches left to fix It will be very beneficial for you to learn the names of all of the parts from an IPB I also recommend that you keep your old parts and practice assembling the transmission before you do the final rebuild Good luck I hope you have as much fun as I did As other people use these instructions and provide me with feedback I will post their comments Merl was my first guinea pig and he Rick Grover http www public asu edu grover willys Frank Woods Dr Vern Mike Paul and numerous others have provided some great feedback Matt Clark was nice enough to provide me with a typo corrected copy of this page I have also taken the liberty of taking a quote from one of Richard Needham s WillysTech postings about sealed bearings Below are a couple of web links to the CJ 3B web site that show the T 90 illustrated parts break down http www film queensu ca CJ3B Photos Parts Transmission gif http www film queensu ca CJ3B Photos Parts TransmissionCutaway gif I can be reached for comments at rick48cj2a satx rr com Dr Vern First I d highly suggest pre ordering the usual replacement parts After disassembling mine I had some trouble getting the parts in a timely manner In the several weeks that passed I forgot much about how it all went together Just by pulling the top cover you could inspect most of the major parts without much disassembly
24. ft pilot bushing 12 The Countershaft Gear Set Known by most as the Cluster Gear should be examined for cracks and broken teeth Because the 15 Reverse gear rides well up onto the 1 gear ring on the Countershaft Cluster Gear _ you can have as much as 3 8 of wear to the 1 gear ring without affecting the gear s operation Small chips and sharp edges should be dressed with a file With new Countershaft Washers and bearings installed the cluster gear should have no wobble on the countershaft The easiest way to detect inside wear on the cluster gear is to run your finger inside and feel the surface If you can feel ridges inside the gear it is worn and should be replaced 13 The Countershaft should fit very tightly into the case It should also have no perceptible grooves or ridges worn into the bearing surface These shafts are cheap so do yourself a favor and replace it 14 The Reverse Idler Gear ill have worn teeth These should be dressed with a file to eliminate small chips or sharp edges that could be broken off and left inside the transmission Check the fit on the Idler Shaft for wobble The gear has a bronze bushing that should look like this J If it doesn t fit well or is missing large sections of teeth it should be replaced 15 The Reverse Idler Gear Shaft should be inspected for chips or wear grooves Since these shafts are cheap if you suspect the shaft is worn then replace it 16 The case must be t
25. h speeds Note the difference between the old oil collector and the new one Li A The new one at the bottom is not as good as the old one and will require trimming the edge to get it to fit without dragging on main gear If you choose to buy a new oil collector make sure you are ready to trim it 1f necessary 5 The synchronizer blocking rings should be inspected for broken teeth and worn mating surfaces The mating surfaces that fit against the Main Drive Gear and Second Speed Gear should have small grooves machined into them with raised surfaces that come to points between the grooves and should be free of cracks and chips gear there should be a gap where the arrow is I believe the gap should be at least 0 010 wide I don t have any documentation to back that up just my minor experience with these things The blocking ring should not fit all the way down over the mating surface If the rings are damaged or if the grooved surface is contaminated with chunks of metal they should be replaced I ve tried to dig those particles out of there and it isn t worth the effort Merl Inspection was also easy just so long as you know what these things are supposed to look like For example I stated that my synchros looked good wrong I made this assumption without actually making a side by side comparison to new synchros Turns out that while my 2nd gear synchro was ok the 3rd gear was badly worn Take your mainshaft assembly completel
26. he rear must be correctly positioned to fit into a recess on the front of the T case Rick s guide mentions this and how one guy had the plate keep the T90 and T case from pulling together correctly I used the gasket as a template and traced the outline of the recess with a magic marker When the two shafts were still protruding about an inch that is when I fit the locking plate into the shafts grooves That allowed me to keep everything in correct alignment as I drove the shafts all the way in Rick Even with a correctly aligned locking plate it is possible for the plate to interfere with the T case installation This will cause one of two things to happen Either the tranny and T case will leak terribly through an unsealed gasket or the tranny will bind up and not turn The binding is caused by the T case cocking the Rear Main Bearing The solution to this problem is to trim the locking plate with a file or grinder to make it fit inside the hole in the T case Dr Vern I felt like I had discovered the cure for cancer or something when I finished the rebuild It was not hard at all It is just a matter of following the steps in the correct sequence Being familiar with all the names of the parts helped too as you read the instructions Dr Vern Since you must have the shift tower off when removing or installing the T90 I d suggest taping a piece of cardboard across the open case I think I d cry if some crud from under the body fell in dur
27. his meant that once I found out how many washers were needed I had to take it all back apart again to group the washers into pairs The only thing I can think of that would have caused this is a difference in manufacturing lengths for the bearings I don t have a micrometer so I wasn t able to check this out The key here is to get the bearings to fit firmly but not tight on the ends Frank I didn t use any of slick Rick s tool tricks I m wondering if someone else can verify if this works 1 pack the bearings in the cluster gear or let your kids do it 2 grease up the countershaft washers and place them and the cluster gear in the bottom of the case gently 3 insert the main drive gear with its bearing washer snap rings and packed with the roller bearings into the front of the case 4 gently lift the cluster gear and mesh its forward most gear with the main drive gear 5 gently insert the countershaft through the back of the case and into the cluster gear 6 insert the mainshaft assembly through the back of the case and gently wiggle insert into the main drive gear 4f Place the large thrust washer coated with assembly grease into position in the case It goes to the front of the case with the brass side toward the cluster gear 4g Place the small steel thrust washer heavily coated with grease in the case The steel thrust washer has a steel tab that will sit on a shoulder in the case This tab prevents the washer from spi
28. horoughly cleaned and inspected for cracks giving extra care to the bottom and around each case opening Ensure the countershaft and reverse idler shaft fit very snugly into the case Do not leave any old gasket material on the mating surfaces You will notice that as the years have passed people have tried to seal their leaking cases by tightening the screws tighter This leads to the edges around the threaded areas being pulled out from the case This is no big deal except that it will keep you from getting a good seal Use a file to level the edges of the threaded holes Make sure to keep the file flat and don t dig into the metal Remember the intent is to level the surface again Frank Buy your small parts kit from Four Wheel Drive Hardware USA Canada 1 800 333 5535 Int l 1 330 482 4924 or 1 330 482 5560 Fax 1 330 482 5035 www 4wd com Columbiana OH It s the best Rick I agree with Frank on this one I ve seen small parts kits from a lot of different places but the one from Four Wheel Drive Hardware is the most complete By the time you add the parts that the other kits don t have the price is higher to buy from anybody else If this situation changes or somebody has a different experience please let me know Dr Vern Did any of the later model T90 s use a neoprene lip seal at the front On mine the front seal was a flat cork washer sandwiched against the face of the bearing by the bearing retainer The bearing that I removed o
29. ht tool to install the snap rings The small stiff one on the front the main drive gear snap ring is a pain in the ers Jabbed my finger with it trying to pry it out the first time Wooden board I used a 2 X 12 X 24 but size really didn t matter much here Work bench I tried to rebuild it on the floor of the basement but found the work bench easier Ziploc bag and Stove top These are replacing my old freezer technique for those of you with early copies of this guide Small brass hammer A small plastic mallet would probably work just as well 5 C Clamp Optional If still attached to the transfer case you could possibly need two long thin wooden wedges 5 long tapering down from 1 should do Disassembly 2a If the transfer case has already been removed proceed to step 2h Remove screws from transfer case rear cover Or 1f equipped with a PTO or Warn OD remove screws and remove the PTO or OD from transfer case 2b Remove transfer case bottom cover ey 2c Remove the cotter pin nut and washer AES fa You may notice in the picture that the two gears do not mesh That s because they are not a Died set The intermediate gear is for a 26 tooth output and the output gear shown is a 29 tooth They don t even fit together enough to install the intermediate shaft in the transfer case I just set it in place so the view would look close to what you would see if you were just opening up the case If you have difficulty
30. ibed a shim installed behind the second speed gear on his mainshaft My transmission did not have this shim and the parts listing does not show it It seems these were installed to bring worn out parts into proper tolerance If you have this shim remove it now 2jj Remove the rear bearing from the mainshaft If necessary stand mainshaft on its tail end an use the 1 Reverse gear like a slide hammer to drive the rear bearing off the shaft I You can not use snap ring pliers to remove this snap ring A flat bladed screwdriver works just fine Hook it under the notch in the ring and pry the ring out Place the bearing on the front end of the mainshaft again use a slide hammer action to drive the bearing from the adapter 21l Slide Tool A bearings washers and spacer from inside the countershaft cluster gear Disassembly is complete Cleaning and Inspection 3a Thoroughly clean all parts with solvent A good small parts kit will contain needle bearings snap rings synchronizer plates and springs bearing spacer and thrust washers Do not waste too much time cleaning these parts unless you want to use them to practice the assembly and disassembly procedures They should be examined to determine common failure items 3b The following inspection procedures can be used to determine which parts should be replaced 1 The main Drive Gear bearing should be replaced if the center wobbles in the cage grinds when spun or makes
31. ing the installation Rick Here s new bit of information for you Tom Jacoby s tranny went together beautifully and worked fine until it was bolted to the T case Once it was bolted up everything bound up tight and was very hard to turn This sounds a lot like the binding locking plate mentioned above and therefore that was inspected and ruled out In the end the cause of his problems stemmed from the bearing spacer being too thick 0 031 for his tranny This forced the Mainshaft forward too far when the T case was installed against the tranny On most T 90s this thick a spacer would not have been a problem but on his the other parts had larger tolerances too and they combined together to create an assembly that was too long to fit the case If you encounter this problem you may need to find a thinner spacer A new spacer that was 0 021 thick worked just fine for Tom OPERATIONAL CHECK Sa Shift the tranny into reverse and rotate the main gear On T 90s with the felt seal in the front bearing retainer you will have to use some force to rotate it The mainshaft should rotate in the opposite direction with no grinding or scraping sounds Sb Shift the tranny into first gear and rotate the main gear The mainshaft should rotate in the same direction only much slower Sc Shift the tranny into second gear and rotate the main gear When you do this you will need to hold the rear bearing retainer in place or it will allow the mainshaft to slide out
32. it card customers They also said to leave the seals installed on both sides because the bearings were designed to run for over 100 000 miles without servicing Update Nov 2005 Mike Harris has reported paying 48 86 plus tax for his bearing at the Purvis Bearing in Austin and I recently paid about 51 out the door here in SA These beings have gone up a lot in 5 years I m going to repeat at this time If you are using this sealed bearing and you have the long shaft main gear shaft you must plug the hole in the pilot bearing race to the outside of the transmission or it will leak badly If you determine that you need a new Main Drive Gear Shaft make sure that you order the right one I don t have the different lengths on hand but it you measure the length they should be able to tell you which one you have 2 The front Bearing Washer should be replaced if bent or scored Lo Most of them I have removed have looked like the one on the right A new one should look like the one on the left 3 On the Main Drive Gear Referred to by some as the Input Shaft inspect the pilot bearing race for scoring and pitting Inspect all oil passages to insure they are clear The inside diameter can be checked by measuring the diameter of the pilot shaft on the Mainshaft adding this size to the twice the diameter of a new pilot needle bearing The sum of these diameters should be within 001 of the inside diameter of the Main Drive Gear pilot bearing race
33. mainshaft washer and nut may be placed on the mainshaft for safekeeping 4jj Install the countershaft and reverse idler gear shaft lock plate I ve found a lot of these are not made to specifications and need to be filed or ground down to fit properly 4kk Tap shafts into case until the locking plate is held firmly in place See note at bottom of assembly guide Dr Vern The front bore of the countershaft is known for leaking The end of the shaft is about 1 16 inside the case when fully assembled I plan to put some sealer in there when I bolt the transmission to the bellhousing The flat surface of the bellhousing will sandwich the sealer in place Naturally you don t want to use too much but just enough to fill that cavity I ll let you know how it works after I get the jeep back on the road All Position the clutch sleeve and 1 Reverse gear into the neutral position 4mm Place the shift tower gasket in position and install the shift tower housing with the shift forks in the shift grooves Ann Install the six screws and tighten The shift tower is usually removed and installed in the vehicle If you are just putting the shift tower on for safe keeping do not tighten the screws This could damage the gasket Merl Oh and one last thing While you ve got your transmission output gear off you ve got to have it off to separate your TC and transmission count the number of teeth on that sucker You never know when you re going
34. nning when the cluster gear rotates 4h Place the small brass rear thrust washer onto the cluster gear Most cluster gears have two notches cut into the small end for the thrust washer to fit into The smaller thrust washer goes to the rear with the brass side toward the steel washer aewith the large end to the front 4j Place the Oil Collector in position in the case as Do not install the screws at this time You will note on the left side of the photo some extra pane that your T 90 doesn t have This is the shift mechanism for the side shift tranny You can build a side shift T 90 to be a top shifted T 90 Frank Don t forget to install the oil collector in the right order because it won t go in last like I thought it would Unless you want to practice disassembly assembly one more time Ak Install the Main Drive Gear into case from the front The bearing snap ring will rest against the front of the case Dr Vern found it easier to install the pilot bearing rollers before installing the main drive gear I have a magnet on a stick that worked great for handling those teeny little rollers too Things got pretty slick using assembly lube Dr Vern Keep in mind when you put the main drive gear and its bearing in the front of the case you will have to back it out partway later Since I did the sealed front bearing mod I decided to seal between the big snap ring and the case too When I had to back out the bearing and
35. ome information from Jason at Mile High Jeep Rebuilders Note the chevrons on the left gear as compared to the chevrons on the new right gear These chevrons are what the clutch hub slide over to lock the tranny in second gear If these chevrons wear down too far they do not allow the clutch hub a proper gripping area and this can lead to the tranny pooping out of second Second gears are expensive but 1f yours is wearing down and been popping out of second I recommend you replace it The detent spring in the shift tower and the front and read main bearings will also cause this problem 9 1 Y Reverse sliding gear will take severe abuse due to its not having a 15 Reverse synchronizer Examine for broken or excessively worn teeth Rounded and shaved teeth can still be used but gears with broken teeth should be replaced Note the severely chipped tooth in the photo Check for snug fit on mainshaft If not replace the gear 10 The Rear Main Bearing should be replaced if the center hub fits loosely in the cage Note that this bearing does not have a snap ring groove like the front bearing does I also recommend changing this one regardless for cracks chips and excess wear of the splines Measure the mainshaft pilot shaf to determine if with new roller bearings installed it will be within OO1 of the inside diameter of the Main Drive Gear If not replace it If this fit is loose it will cause excessive wear on the engine cranksha
36. removing the nut you can wedge a hardwood block or brass drift between these two gears to lock them into position Once the nut and washer are removed the main gear can be removed from the main shaft If it sticks two thin wooden wedges can be tapped in between the rear bearing and main gear to pop it loose 2d If the shift tower has been removed while removing the transmission proceed to step 2e Shift the transmission into neutral remove the six screws from the shift tower and remove it 2e To hold the mainshaft in place until removal is desired install the front two shift tower screws back into their holes Loop a heavy piece of wire under and behind the second speed gear and tightly wrap it around each of the two screws 2f Remove the transmission to transfer case bolts There is one bolt that is somewhat hidden on the opposite side from the first bolts It is on the front side of the transfer case Make sure to remove this bolt or you could crack the T 90 case trying to force them apart 2g Separate the transfer case from the transmission 2h Remove the three screws from the main drive gear bearing retainer 21 Remove the retainer seal and gasket 2j Remove the two twelve point socket head screws that hold the oil collector to the case The oil collector can not be removed at this time so move it out of the way of the main drive gear as needed 2k Tap the main drive gear forward about 3 8 Do not tr
37. riginal was shielded but not sealed on both sides The shields were probably enough to slow the flow of oil to the point that the cork washer could handle it I had been pondering installing some sort of neoprene lip seal at the forward bearing retainer These are those common type of seals used on the transfer case timing chain cover and other applications I decided against it because the bearing retainer wasn t thick enough There was not enough material to cut away to press in a seal Nor was that part of the input shaft smooth enough for a seal I suppose I could have rigged up a toolpost grinder on the lathe but the sealed bearing idea was looking a whole lot simpler When I got my small parts kit home I sorted through this wonderful mixture of needle bearings thrust washers gaskets and so on I kept picturing Merl s boys playing in the grease The kit didn t have the cork washer which I wasn t going to use anyway Instead there was a small neoprene seal sized to fit over the input shaft So one very long not necessarily relevant story later Did some later model T90 s use a neoprene lip seal for the input shaft It looks like the bearing retainer would have to be different to hold it in place and the finish on the shaft would have to be smoother I don t plan to add one because it would soon fail anyway if there was no oil on the shaft due to the sealed bearing I m just wondering that s all Jason MileHiJeep We have new T
38. still in the neutral position Drive the second and high speed gears shifter rail to the front until the rail hole expansion plug can be removed Carefully slide the shifter rod forward while rotating the shift lever notch in the rod toward the bottom of the tower Do not allow the notch to pass the poppet ball while it is pointed toward the top or the poppet ball and spring will become trapped in the notch If this happens you can force the poppet ball back into the hole by rotating the shaft with a pair of vise grips Caution as the rod slides past the poppet ball the natural tendency is for the ball to shoot out Cover the hole with a rag Remove the rail and the second and high speed gears shift fork Drive the low and reverse speed gears shifter rail to the front until the rail hole expansion plug can be removed This rail does not have the notch to worry about so it should be a little easier to deal with Caution as the rod slides past the poppet ball the natural tendency is for the ball to shoot out Cover the hole with a rag Remove the rail and the low and reverse speed gears shifter fork This leaves the removal of the shift lever This procedure is totally different between the M 38 and other T 90 transmissions M 38 Unscrew the shift tower cap from the shift tower and remove Slide shift lever out of the shift tower Other T 90s Turn the shift tower upside down and lock into a vise if possible It worked pretty well for me sitting in
39. t fork and the High shift notch Secure both shifter forks onto the shifter shafts with shifter fork pins For those with staked pins flange the ends of the gearshift fork pins with a center punch M 38 Install 3 8 inch countersunk head pipe plugs in ends of gearshift control housing Place a small amount of sealant around the new gearshift rail hole expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in the front end of gearshift control housing If there is enough room in the ends of the rear shaft holes of your shifter I recommend installing these plugs there too There has also been some interest in installing a reverse light switch in the shift tower A write up for this can be seen here
40. the back of the tranny and the pilot bearings will drop to the bottom The tranny should shift smoothly into second gear and the mainshaft should rotate smoothly in the same direction Sd Shift the tranny into third gear The tranny should shift smoothly into second gear and the mainshaft should rotate smoothly in the same direction Bob Stewart Caution In a November 1958 Jeep Service and Parts News They note that there are 2 different size bolts to hold the T case to the transmission 1 amp 1 1 8 They warn that improper assembly can lead to gear damage and leaks They want the two 1 bolts in the lower left and lower right Rick I looked this warning over very carefully and I agree that installing the 1 8 bolt in the lower left corner position would damage the reverse idler gear I was unable to find a reason for the shorter bolt in the lower right hole unless they were concerned about confusion as to which side was which ASSEMBLY CHECKLIST OF THINGS OFTEN FORGOTTEN 1 Main gear snap ring 2 Main shaft Snap ring 3 Clutch hub installed with larger hub forward 4 Clutch hub sleeve installed with the shift fork groove to the rear 5 Ist Reverse gear installed with the shift fork groove forward 6 Clearance for the countershaft locking plate between the cases 7 Non hardening sealant on every bolt that penetrates to the inside of the case I ve decided to agree with Dr Vern on something that he said long ago RTV gasket sealers sho
41. to run across a used Warn OD at a decent price and wouldn t you just HATE to miss out because you didn t know or guessed wrong Rick On the last T 90 Model 18 rebuild I encountered a new problem I installed the locking plate from the bottom instead of the top When I bolted the T case to the T 90 the locking plate interfered with the mating and I had to pull it all back apart to swap the plate Make sure you check this fit before applying gaskets and sealer Another guy was rebuilding his IH Scout T 90 and had the same problem His info is printed below Gary Major lesson learned last night There s already some added comments in your text regarding the locking plate that secures the reverse idler shift shaft and the cluster gear shaft On IH Scout using ig TS TEMA a F g pae a k pm _ the T90 T18 combo the locking plate MUST be installed from the top fal so that itis a right side up T I put mine in from the bottom put gasket shellac on all the gaskets and cranked everything down tight When I filled both with the requisite 6 pints of gear oil and started the engine I had a puddle on the floor pretty quickly Tried quick fixes like shellac on the threads of the bolts that join the T18 and T90 but still had good flow Took the two units apart last night and found that the locking plate is interference with the fit Kinda like slipping a dime between the mounting surfaces Dr Vern During assembly the shaft locking plate on t
42. tools is not critical Within 1 4 inch of Rick s measure is OK but do make sure there are no burs on the end of the tool Ok folks here s the skinny on this electrical conduit The correct size is as Merl described 3 4 however you will find that when you measure 3 4 conduit it is 13 16 inside diameter and 15 16 outside diameter I hope this clears up the confusion In addition Merl is also correct about the length of tools A B and C They are going to be used as spacers to hold the needle bearings in place during assembly so length is not critical 2c Tool C is manufactured using a length of 1 diameter electrical conduit Cut it to 1 7 8 long with a hacksaw It must be cut straight and any burs removed 2d Tool D is manufactured using a length of 1 diameter electrical conduit Cut it to 1 long with a hacksaw It must be cut straight and any burs removed 2e Tool E is manufactured using a 3 4 wooden dowel rod Cut it to 2 long The dowel rod must be sanded to slightly less than 3 4 and will most likely be destroyed in this use You could also make it from a piece of brass rod but I used the wooden dowel since I already had some left over Other Tools I Used Brass Drift any size will do but the bigger the better up to 1 2 Set of 12 point 1 4 drive sockets I ve been told that some of the bolts are Allen headed instead Pair of flat bladed snap ring pliers Round tipped pliers will not work Frank Get the rig
43. uld be outlawed I found that stuff in every possible orifice in the last case I rebuilt It was causing oil starvation to the bearings 8 Running the Tranny through the shifts prior to installing it in the vehicle ON REBUILDING THE SHIFT TOWER Thanks to Ron Cox and Reed Cary I have been able to add the Shift Tower rebuild instructions to this guide Without their help this would not have been possible Thanks guys In the research that we have done it has come to light that there are two different shift towers available for the T 90 transmission One is in the M 38 and looks like this It was designed to be waterproof and seems to have a more rugged design The second one I call the other T 90 shift tower and it looks like this It s is possible that the M 38 shifter was used in other military jeeps as well 1f so please let me know and I will add them to the list DISASSEMBLY Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high speed shifter fork and the low and reverse speed shifter fork In some shifters this is a split pin and in others it will be a hollow pin that is staked in the end The split pins can simply be driven out with a pin drift but the staked pins must have the staked end drilled off first Place both shift rails into the neutral position The M 38 shift tower will have two 3 8 inch countersunk head pipe plugs at the rear of the shift rod rail holes Remove these For other models this is N A Verify that the rods are both
44. ver support spring if it is cracked or distorted Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are worn broken or distorted I recommend replacing them anyway ASSEMBLY I have found that the staked pin that prevents the shift lever from rotating in the tower and the pin that allows for the installation of the interlock pin will leak if left alone Prior to assembly you should clean around these pins until all grease and oil are removed and then seal with a good gasket sealer and allow to cure Make sure to force the gasket sealer in around the pins but make sure it doesn t go all the way through to the inside I can attest to the fact that if you fail to do this these pins can leak a large amount of oil The last time I had my shift tower off I made a few other mods to it One mod was to drill a hole in the rear between the shift rails I tapped threads into the hole to accept a bolt Then I made a plate that fit over the end of the shift tower The tail end of the shift tower had to be filed smooth This was easy to do by keeping the pressure applied to the center of the file instead of the ends I then sealed the end of the sift rails with this cap plate I did have to remove about 1 4 off the end of the first reverse shift rod to omen it from hitting the plate It hasn t leaked any oil since In addition to this modification my old shift lever had been ground down a time or two to fit various shifter knobs When I bought my n
45. y apart and take a good close look at everything With everything apart take your synchros and put them on the beveled edge of the 2nd speed gear and the input gear If either the beveled edge of the gear is worn or the rear or inside of your synchro is worn replacement is needed As Rick suggests you might as well just go for new synchros they re cheap 6 The Clutch Sleeve S should be inspected for cracks and pits Inspect the inside splines for sharp edges and ae These can be removed with a file or crocus cloth After cleanup it should still fit snugly on the clutch hub If not replace it and the clutch hub Rick Grover The burrs on the inside of the clutch slider were pretty bad on mine I worried about them and whether or not to replace it but finally did as you recommended filed them off with a fine file and emery cloth 7 The Clutch Hub should be inspected for sharp edges and burs on the splines Caution should be used when handling a used hub as it could have very sharp edges Using a file or crocus cloth remove any burs Check fit on the Mainshaft and inside the Clutch Sleeve for snug fit If it does not fit both pieces snugly replace it 8 The Second Speed Gear should be inspected for broken or worn teeth Examine the blocking ring surface area for scoring Check for snug fit on main shaft If it does not fit properly or if teeth are damaged replace the gear i Frankie Ladwig provided us with this fine picture and s
46. y to drive the main gear out at this time or it will damage both it and the cluster gear 21 Remove the wire and screws from the case and mainshaft that you installed in step 2e 2m Slide the clutch sleeve forward on the mainshaft 2n Slide the mainshaft complete with the front synchronizer blocking ring backwards then tilt the J and slide it out of the case through the rear opening Some T 90s have the counter shaft locking plate installed over the top of the ren benini adapter This will prevent the rear bearing adapter from being removed lf this is the case on your T 90 you will need to remove the locking plate as described in step 2o 2q prior to removing the mainshaft This may prove to be difficult due to the limited space for accessing the reverse idler gear shaft with the mainshaft installed In this case brute force applied to the locking plate may be required Merl Disassembly was easy the hardest part was getting that locking plate out of the slots on the rear of the two shafts As Rick mentioned mine was inserted from the top down and I couldn t get the rear bearing adapter plate off without first removing this plate I bunged up the plate really well and wound up getting a replacement for it 20 Using Tool A or a brass drift gently tap the countershaft toward the rear of the transmission about U7 2p Then using a brass hammer also tap the idler gear shaft toward the rear of the case enough to free the lo
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