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Valkyrie Maintenance Guide

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1. ONO gt O Raise bike slightly using Cycle Lift Remove speedometer cable phillips screw on left side of wheel tuck it out of the way into engine guard Remove left and right brake calipers by removing 2 mounting bolts each 12mm Do NOT depress front brake lever while calipers are removed Unclip left brake hose from fender and hang caliper by the speedo cable clip out of the way Let right caliper hang from fender or support it with a piece of wire With a small screwdriver carefully pry the 4 chrome caps off the axle pinch bolts Loosen right axle pinch bolts 6mm hex do NOT loosen the left side yet Remove the axle bolt 22mm from the right side use bike tool kit if you do not have 22mm Loosen left axle pinch bolts 6mm hex Remove the axle from the left side by reinserting the axle bolt partway into the axle on the right side and gently tapping the axle bolt with a soft mallet e g plastic or rubber to drive the axle out to the left Note the location of the spacer on the right and the orientation of the speedo gear box and its rotation stop in relation to the fork leg stop Now remove the axle bolt and finish driving the axle most of the way out using a 14mm socket on a short extension while sitting in front of the bike and supporting the tire with your feet Insert an awl or phillips screwdriver into the crosshole in the left end of the axle and twist and pull it all the way out while supporting and alig
2. Lube second bead and push down with hands knees feet 3 4 on 11 Using three tire irons pry tire on the real secret is to be sure the opposite side of the tire is squeezed into the center of the wheel use bead breaker if necessary 12 Double check alignment of tire balance dots with valve stem 13 Double check direction of rotation 14 Insert valve core inflate to seat tire inflate to 40 psi NOORWN Front Tire Balance 1 Insert axle into wheel and place on balancing stand 2 Determine balance by taping assorted weights to wheel 3 Remove old weights with razor knife and alcohol if necessary 4 Precurve whole weight ribbon to same curvature as the wheel 5 Clean wheel with alcohol before sticking weight on Front Wheel Installation 1 Lightly grease axle to prevent corrosion and make for easier removal 2 Roll wheel under the front fender 3 Insert right side spacer 4 Grease inside of speedo gear box and insert on the left side being certain that the rotation stop on the speedo gear box is just behind toward the radiator or rear the stop on the left fork leg 5 Lift the wheel with your feet and align 6 Insert the axle from the left of the bike and push it in until it is flush with the outside of the fork leg top to bottom 7 Insert and torque the left only not the right axle pinch bolts 6mm hex to 16 ft lb 22Nm 8 Insert and torque the axle bolt on the right side 22mm to 67 ft lb 90Nm 9 Do
3. NOT tighten the right axle pinch bolts yet The correct sequence is critical to maintain correct fork alignment 10 Gently spread the pads in the calipers with a tire iron or large screwdriver 18 11 Install both calipers 12mm and torque the mounting bolts to 22 ft lb 30Nm 12 Align the slots in the speedo cable and insert it into the speedo gear box if the cable won t go in all the way gently push on the cable while turning the wheel insert and gently tighten the phillips screw careful it can break easily 13 Insert the brake lines into the holders on the fender 14 Insert the speedo cable into the wire holder on the left caliper 15 Check the front wheel for relatively free rotation some brake pad drag 17 Lower and remove the Cycle Lift 18 Straddle the bike apply the front brakes and pump the front forks up and down several times to seat the axle or you can compress the forks with straps and then tighten the right axle pinch bolts 19 Only now do you tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 16 ft lb 22Nm 20 Insert the chrome caps into the 4 axle pinch bolt heads 21 Pump the front brakes to be sure they are working Rear Wheel Removal Note The following instructions are for a Tourer If you have a Standard it may be easier to remove the shocks and raise and lower the rear wheel with a scissors jack to gain access to the axle while the bike is up on the Cycle Lift In which case you would not remo
4. little higher and see the two hoses that are attached to the actual fuel valve Lower the tank into place and go to the right side of the bike about 2 3 inches behind and level with the ignition switch you will find these two hoses which are somewhat hidden Pry off the small hose attached to the right side of the fuel valve it comes off easily without removing the clamp Still working from the right side of the bike rotate the clamp on the large fuel line so that you can get slip joint pliers on it Slide the clamp down the fuel line Pry off the fuel line It will drip about a teaspoon of gas so you may want to have a rag under it as you pry it off Slowly lift the tank being careful not to catch the fuel valve on the clutch line Set the tank aside Installation Reverse of the above with the following notes 1 2 3 4 Slide the two small clamps into place on the hose before pushing the hoses on Wet the ends of the hoses slightly to make sliding them on easier used needle nose pliers to slide the two fuel valve hoses on from the right side behind the ignition switch Don t forget the large fuel line clamp Be sure the chrome knob assembly is pointed to the OFF position when connecting it to the fuel valve CHECK VAC LINE FOR KINKS Be sure that there are no kinks in any of the fuel and vacuum lines Air Filter Change Parts Tools air filter screwdriver DN Q IS phillips screwdriver tank removal tools R
5. side very center of the final drive hub using 8mm hex to break loose any corrosion and ease removal of the axle 19 9 Install the axle nut partway onto the axle and using a 19mm socket and long extension drive the axle out to the right 10 Remove the axle nut and using just the long extension drive the axle out the rest of the way 11 Remove the rear break caliper and lay it on the left saddle bag mount or wire tie it out of the way 12 Remove collar spacer from the left side center off the wheel 13 Pull the wheel to the left until it comes free of the final drive 14 Raise the bike 12 inches or so until the tire wheel can be removed from under the rear fender 15 Check the rear pads for wear 16 Check the rear wheel bearings on each side for smooth and guiet rotation Rear Tire Change Use the wooden frame to protect the rotor To get the last part of the first bead on had to use a large 12 tire iron and pry against fulcrum the outer bead to force the inner first bead on I ve never had to do this before and could be because the tire was not sun warmed or it could be that Valkyrie rear tires are a bit harder to install Otherwise same as the front Rear Wheel Installation and Rear Spline Lube 1 Using a small 6 pry bar gently pry the final drive flange out of the right side of the wheel The flange is the black star shaped piece with what looks like 5 bolts holding it to the wheel These bolts are actually smoot
6. supplies 11 Thread the tygon tubing behind the right side saddle bag and into the filler opening 12 Insert the funnel into the other end of the tygon tubing 13 Measure 150cc 5 10z of synthetic gear oil 75W 90 Mobil Spectro Amsoil etc 14 Pour the gear oil into the funnel and let it drain down the tubing into the final drive Hint With the bike held vertical 150cc comes to just below the inside lower edge of the filler hole not flowing out the filler opening with the bike on its sidestand 15 Install the oil filler cap with the o ring in place 9 ft lb 12 Nm 16 Wipe any spilled gear oil off the tire and wheel 17 Check for any oil leaks after your next ride 14 Brake and Clutch Fluid Note Brake fluid can ruin the bike s paint so cover the tank and any painted or plastic parts with a towel if you are adding or changing fluid Front Brake Fluid Reservoir 1 Turn the handlebar to the left so the reservoir on the right handlebar is level 2 Check the fluid level in the sight glass of the reservoir 3 Add only DOT 4 brake fluid if the level is at or below the LOWER level mark Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir 1 Have a friend hold the bike upright 2 Check the fluid level through the sight hole right side of the bike just in front of the sidecover It is easier to see if you remove the plastic chrome reservoir cover 3 Add only DOT 4 brake fluid if the level is at or below the LOWER level mark Note If eithe
7. threaded bolts and could easily break or strip Keep your palm or fingers close to the head of the ratchet when tightening these bolts 23 Insert the six valve cover bolts and washers 6mm hex 24 Insert the wire cables back into the holder 25 Install the left valve cover 6 bolts and washers 6mm hex 26 Install both cam end covers 2 bolts each 5mm hex 27 Insert the black rubber plugs into the valve cover bolts 28 Run the engine check for oil leaks Engine Oil and Filter Change Parts Tools oil filter oil filter tool 4 qts oil 10W 40 or Mobil 1 15W 50 ratchet drain plug washer torgue wrench AN gt 17mm socket funnel or oil spout rubber gloves rag oil drain pan Be sure engine is hot go for a short ride Place oil drain pan under drain plug bottom right side of engine Wear rubber gloves oil is carcinogenic plus when you accidentally touch the hot headers or get hot oil on your hands it won t hurt as much Remove the oil drain plug 17mm socket do not lose the washer located under the drain plug Replace this crush washer every other time Remove the oil filter front right of engine oil filter tool and ratchet Remove the oil filler cap 6 inches above the right foot peg to help draining Let drain for 10 min Straddle bike and hold upright or tip very slightly to the right to drain last of the oil Install the drain plug with its washer and torque to 25 ft lb 34 Nm Apply a thi
8. 4 After tightening double check the clearance 15 Turn the crankshaft 120 degrees to align the T3 4 at the index mark Check for wiggle at No 4 valves Adjust if necessary 16 Turn the crankshaft 120 degrees to align the T5 6 at the index mark Check for wiggle at No 5 valves Adjust if necessary 17 Turn the crankshaft 120 degrees to align the T1 2 at the index mark Check for wiggle at No 2 valves Adjust if necessary 18 Turn the crankshaft 120 degrees to align the T3 4 at the index mark Check for wiggle at No 3 valves Adjust if necessary 19 Turn the crankshaft 120 degrees to align the T5 6 at the index mark Check for wiggle at No 6 valves Adjust if necessary 20 Install the timing cover 3 bolts 5mm hex 21 Wipe any oil off the valve cover gaskets Hint You may need to apply a small amount of TRV or similar sealer to each outside end of the cam housing There are two spots at each end top and bottom of the round cam housing where the factory applied some sealant In any case be sure that none of the factory applied sealant is balled up and potentially keeping the valve cover gasket from sealing tightly 22 Below and to the front of the right valve cover remove the two sets of wire cables from the wire holder and gently pull out any extra slack to make it easier to reinstall the right valve cover Hint Do not over tighten any of the bolts to the 5 different covers when reinstalling These are relatively small and fine
9. Uaa aadA eaaa aSa aa T ous LOETLES ANSES a LEESE Esa E BEENY 16 FORK OIL T A AT T T AAT 16 CHECK BATTERY E TETA T A A E TE AT 16 CHECK TIRES AND TIRE PRESSURE I u uuu uuu u u u 16 CHECK ALL NUTS AND BOLTS L LU A AS A ASS NASA aa Raana i neea da Sa huq s 16 CHECK ALL AIR AND FLUID HOSE CLAMPS u uuu uuu u 16 CHECK ALL LIGHTS amitie aa aa Aae A ea S 16 TIRE CHANGE AND REAR SPLINE LUBE uu u u uuu uuu wusylskssssssaiayssutakagassakasassuakagsayqasswasiyahaspasaassakawiacauyauaa kus 17 SHOCK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS U UI U UU UTU dansana indianerna naai niania kankaani trenda 22 Valkyrie Maintenance Checklist Fuel Tank Removal Air Filter Change Crankcase Breather Spark Plugs Timing Belts Valve Adjustment Engine Oil and Filter Change Carburetor Synchronization Idle Speed Adjustment Coolant Change Final Drive Gear Oil Change Brake and Clutch Fluid Brake Pads Fork Oil Check Battery Check Tires and Tire Pressure Check All Nuts and Bolts Check All Air and Fluid Hose Clamps Check All Lights Tire Change and Rear Spline Lube Shock Installation Instructions PARTS TOOLS Tools Parts sockets spark plugs wrenches oil filter torque wrench air filter hex sockets brake pads hex wrenches oil feeler gauges gear oil oil filter tool timing belts flashlight antifreeze measuring cylinder compression washers Mityvac 2 oil drain rear drive digital volt mete
10. Valkyrie Maintenance Guide Carl Kulow by Carl Kulow Send comments corrections to kulowc indiana edu ISBN F6 1520CC First Edition Copyright 1997 2001 All Valkyrie Riders The author has done his best to produce accurate information However neither he nor the editor nor the web publisher can assume liability for any damage or injury caused by any errors or omissions in this manual Use good sense and at your own risk TABLE OF CONTENTS FUEE TFANK REMOVAE ALS S E assia u ia a kiasa saa pass 9 5 AIR FILTER CHAN GE A 6 CRANKASE BREATHER cccccsccssseseuseessseesseeeeseeseaeesseessesaseessaeeseesesesaseesaseessaeeeseessaeesseeseeesseessanesseusaesusenseeessaueenenaas 6 SPARK PLUGS22J A 7 TIMING BELTS a EOE ET TETEE AETI ETTET TETTETETT 7 VAEVE ADJUSTMENTI uuu pu nu unu ai u GN alana bn a sai huuu a 8 ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE L u uu aaa a Aaaa a a aa aa aa aaa aus uiw a au ua w 10 CARBURETOR SYNCHIRONIZATION uu I u qaa awa hua wisa saus aqa vas 11 IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT isarnnaaennnenananannnnnaanennananannnnansenenananaannnaansunananannnnannnaaasennnanannaaanannnanansnannnaansanannnane 13 COOLANT CHANGE NS RI upi Spain a deidad aaaea aaae aaite e a aara aaar iaaa 13 FINAL DRIVE GEAR OIL CHANGE o a a aara m anae a a aaa aa wata a ta ap hai q ey spa s 14 BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID u u uu arava au a a aa aaa waaka ua qa aaraa aaa Na rea PA araa aAa 15 BRAKE PADS 252 arasan aE Aaaa eaea eE e RE A ASEELLA
11. apped air bubbles Shut engine off Add coolant to the radiator and to the reservoir to bring up to the proper level Install the reservoir cap and side cover Install the radiator cap and its setscrew 13 Final Drive Gear Oil Change Parts Tools synthetic gear oil 75W 90 funnel narrow neck drain plug washer clear tygon tubing measuring cylinder 17mm box wrench rag oil drain pan 1 Set the bike on its sidestand on a level surface 2 Place oil drain pan under drain plug right side of rear tire 3 Place a rag on the tire to catch any dripping gear oil 4 Remove the drain plug 17mm box wrench do not lose the washer located under the drain plug Replace this crush washer every other time 6 Remove the filler cap to help draining do not lose the o ring 7 Let drain for 10 min 8 Straddle the bike and hold it upright or tip very slightly to the right to drain the last of the oil 9 Clean the sludge and metal filings off the drain plug with the tip of a rag and perhaps a blast of carb or brake cleaner 10 Install the drain plug with its washer 14 ft lb 20 Nm Hint Clear tygon tubing is available at most hardware stores and makes filling the final drive very easy with the right saddle bag in place You need approximately 2 feet of tubing OD 9 16 ID 3 8 that will fit over the neck of your funnel and also into the filler opening Measuring cylinders are available at camera stores that sell darkroom
12. ar wheel by hand to check for free rotation Lift and pull outward on the muffler to install it into the rear hanger Torque the muffler hanger nuts 12mm to 25 ft lb 34Nm Install the 5 exhaust nuts front most nut is already partway on using 10mm socket on long extension and a 10mm open end box wrench for the hard to reach nuts and torque to 7 ft lb 10Nm if you can otherwise tighten by hand being careful not to over tighten Install the saddle bags and 4 bolts each 8mm Check for exhaust leaks where you loosened the headers replace exhaust gaskets if necessary 21 Progressive 416 Shock Installation Instructions Shock Removal If you have a Tourer you do NOT have to remove the hardbags Raise the bike slightly off the ground with Cycle Lift or eguivalent Set both shocks to 1 spring pre load Remove bottom shock bolt using 12mm socket right shock or 14mm socket left shock swivel and long extension on your ratchet Remove top shock bolt with 14mm socket on your ratchet Gently pry the top of the shock off the mount with a screwdriver Remove shocks Right Shock Installation Both Progressive 416 s are identical use either one You want to install the shock with air outlet facing forward Insert the thinnest black sleeve into the lower red end shock eye and press into place with a bench vise Pre test the sleeve on the bolt for proper size before inserting into the shock Line up the lower shock
13. brake and clutch fluid replacement procedures 15 Brake Pads Note Check front and rear pads for wear and replace them if they are worn to the bottom of the wear indicator groove Note If either the front or rear brake fluid reservoir is low on fluid be sure to check the brake pads for wear As the pads wear more fluid is taken into the system Note See the shop manual for brake pad replacement Note Be sure to check the brake fluid reservoir after replacing the pads as fluid is forced back into the reservoir by the new thicker pads the reservoir may be too full Fork Oil Honda does not mention fork oil changes in the maintenance schedule An educated guess would put a fork oil change at perhaps 24K 36K miles or every 2 years Since there is no drain plug for the forks and you need to remove the forks to dump the oil this procedure does not fall into the category of routine maintenance Check with the shop manual if you wish to do this procedure yourself Check Battery Note If you have a sealed no maintenance battery just check for any corrosion at the battery terminals If you have a regular battery you will have to check the battery acid level and bring it up to the upper level line with distilled water Check Tires and Tire Pressure Note Visually check the tires for any problems wear nails tread separation cupping etc Note Check the tire pressure on cold tires Most Valkyrie riders and tire
14. e also numbered as given below Right side front to rear 1 3 5 Left side front to rear 2 4 6 Note Thin gloves and angled needle nose pliers make getting the hoses and caps back on much easier around the hot engine Note It is a good idea to check your vacuum gauge to be sure that all four columns read identically when connected to the same vacuum source The line restrictors have been known to cause incorrect readings You can get 3 T s or Y s from a pet aquarium supply store and connect all four vacuum gauge columns at one time to the No 3 intake manifold they should all read the same 3 Start the engine and clamp the vacuum hose that runs from the No 6 intake manifold to the fuel petcock You need to keep a vacuum on the fuel petcock for fuel to flow the vacuum would be lost when you removed this hose to sync carb No 6 After clamping the hose shut the engine off Hint If you do not have a hose clamp you could use a hemostat or visegrips 4 Use a flatblade screwdriver to push pry the No 3 and No 4 vacuum hoses off the intake manifold you can leave the little hose clamp in place 5 As instep 4 remove the small caps from No 1 and No 5 there are no vacuum hoses on these two 11 6 Connect the four column vacuum gauge to No 1 3 and 5 intake manifolds on the right side and No 4 onthe left side where you removed the vacuum hose or cap Note Be sure that the gauge and its hoses do not touch the hot exha
15. emove the fuel tank See Tank Removal instructions Remove the 2 rear screws on the air filter housing and set them aside Loosen the remaining 7 screws all the way leaving them in place in the cover Lift off the air filter cover taking note of the rubber gasket top Replace the air filter Be sure the lower rubber gasket is in place Install the air filter cover being sure that the top rubber gasket is in place To insert the top gasket you can turn the cover upside down without the 7 screws falling out Use a screwdriver to push the gasket into its groove so that it is well seated and won t drop out when you turn the cover over to install it Tighten all 9 screws Install the fuel tank Hint With a helper you can change the filter while he holds up the empty tank Loosen petcock lever amp mounts first and lift front of tank use a stubby screwdriver Crankcase Breather Parts Tools none slip joint pliers ONS ons Locate the 3 drain hoses below the right foot peg Note that one of the hoses has a plug and clamp on the end of it Squeeze the clamp with the pliers to open it slightly and slide the clamp up the hose 1 inch Pull the plug from the hose and let it drain into an old can Install the plug Slide the clamp back down over the plug using the pliers Parts Spark Plugs Tools spark plugs spark plug socket 1 2 short extension ratchet compressed air spark plug gauge anti seize torque wrench Remo
16. eye with its mount insert and finger tighten the bolt 12mm Tom Mitchell found it necessary to drill out one of the large thin brass washers to get the 020 min space did not do this because there was not enough space on my bike Check your own bike for the 020 min space and act accordingly The top shock eye does not get a sleeve Very carefully raise or lower the Cycle Lift to align the top shock eye with its mount N B swing the shock forward out of the way when lowering the lift so you do not smash the top of the shock if the lift lowers too quickly Insert and finger tighten the top bolt 14mm Left Shock Installation Same as the right shock EXCEPT Insert the thickest black sleeve into the lower shock eye pre test on the bolt first The left lower shock bolt is 14mm The left lower shock bracket may be a tight fit for the shock with its sleeve Torque Values With all 4 shock bolts installed and finger tightened use a torque wrench to set the following values Both top bolts 14mm 20 ft lbs Right lower bolt 12mm 17 ft lbs Left lower bolt 14mm 25 ft lbs 22 Air Line Installation The air fill T valve can be plastic cable tied zip tie to the frame in a suitable location or it can be permanently installed on the front plastic battery seat release lock cover as suggested by Rob Weber To do so remove both sidecovers pull loose at rear grommet first then bottom grommet then swing co
17. h pins Be careful not to loose the plastic washer on the inside of the flange plate 2 Carefully remove the large o ring from the outside of the flange just inside of the gear teeth Carefully remove the large o ring from the right side wheel hub under where the flange was Clean both o rings and their grooves with a rag Clean the 5 pins on the flange with a rag Clean all the old grease off the flange especially the gear teeth with a rag Clean the old grease off the final drive teeth as best you can Fill the hub o ring groove with moly disulfide paste mdp Honda Belray coat the o ring with mdp and install 9 Coat the mating surface of the wheel hub around the outside of the wheel bearing on the flange side with mdp 10 Coat the large plastic washer with mdp 11 Coat the inside of the flange with mdp 12 Lightly coat the 5 flange pins with mdp 13 Push the flange onto the wheel hub being sure the inside o ring and plastic washer are in place 14 Fill the outer flange o ring groove with mdp coat the o ring with mdp and install amp ONO Note Replace the hub and flange o rings perhaps every other tire change 15 Generously apply mdp to the flange teeth and the final drive teeth 16 Wipe clean the left rotor side bearing dust seal and its spacer collar 17 Apply regular grease to the lips of the bearing dust seal 18 Insert the spacer collar into the bearing dust seal 20 19 Clean any corrosion off the a
18. ion it should deflect 0 2 0 3 inches 5 7mm in the center of the long straight side of the belt the side opposite the tensioner See shop manual for tensioner adjustment and belt replacement Valve Adjustment Tools Parts Allen sockets 5mm 6mm none ratchet short extension oil drain pan newspaper sockets 17mm box wrench 10mm feeler gauges screwdriver 1 Engine cold 2 Bike on sidestand or on cycle lift less oil drips 3 Transmission in neutral 4 Remove both cam end covers 3 inch square covers with one rounded side 2 bolts each 5mm hex at the rear end of each valve cover 5 Place an oil drain pan under the left valve cover 1 8 cup will drain newspaper under the right valve cover a few drops will drain 6 Remove the rubber plugs from the center of the valve cover bolts 7 Remove both valve covers 6mm hex be sure the washer sealing ring comes off with each bolt 8 Remove the timing cover 3 inch round cover directly below the radiator 3 bolts 5mm hex Hint Any of the covers removed above may stick slightly and you will need to tap them gently with a wooden or plastic screwdriver handle or the palm of your hand 9 With the transmission in neutral turn the crankshaft 17mm where you removed the timing cover counterclockwise there is an arrow on the timing plate and align the T1 2 mark on the timing plate to the index mark on the outside at 3 o clock 10 Be ce
19. manufacturers find that 38 psi front and 40 psi rear for one up riding is better than Honda s recommended pressure For two up riding or if you are carrying a lot of camping gear try 40 psi front and 42 psi rear Check All Nuts and Bolts Note Get your open end box wrenches sockets allen hex wrenches etc and go over your bike front to back top to bottom and check every nut and bolt for tightness You are not retorqueing everything just making sure that nothing is loose Note If you have the time and motivation you may want to actually check the torque on critical fasteners Check All Air and Fluid Hose Clamps Check All Lights 16 Tire Change and Rear Spline Lube Tools Front Tools Rear Allen hex socket set 6mm Allen hex socket set 8mm ratchet ratchet short extension 3 ratchet extension 1 1 2 3 10 metric sockets 12 14 22mm sockets 8 10 12 14 19 27mm torgue wrench torgue wrench phillips screwdriver soft mallet rubber plastic small screwdriver molybdenum disulfide paste mdp soft mallet plastic rubber grease regular awl small pry bar 6 bead breaker JC Whitney open end box wrench 10mm balancing stand homemade wood frame of 2x2 16 sq OD Parts 3 tire irons exhaust gaskets valve core tool hub o ring wheel weights ribbon flange o ring tire lube dish soap alcohol paint brush for applying lube grease Front Wheel Removal
20. n coat of oil to the new oil filter rubber gasket Install the new oil filter and torque to 7 ft Ib 10 Nm or give it 1 turn after first contact Remove the oil filler cap be careful not to lose the o ring Add 3 75 3 9 qts of oil NOT 4 gts using funnel or oil spout Install the oil filler cap Run engine at idle for 2 3 min Wait 5 min straddle bike to hold it upright and check to be sure the oil level is at the upper mark on the dipstick dipstick NOT screwed in Check for any oil leaks at filter and drain plug 10 Carburetor Synchronization Parts Tools none vacuum gauge 4 column hose clamp phillips screwdriver flatblade screwdriver thin gloves needle nose pliers 1 Be sure engine is hot go for a short ride 2 Remove the long chrome carburetor linkage covers 3 phillips screws each side Note If the radiator fan comes on while you are syncing the carbs it will change your reference point Some people disconnect the fan and point a house box fan at the front of the engine radiator to keep things cool during synchronization Others leave the radiator fan connected and either use a new reference point when it comes on or they wait for it to shut off and settle back to the original reference point Note The No 3 carb is the reference carb and cannot be adjusted all 5 of the other carbs are adjusted to read the same as No 3 carb Note Carb Location the spark plug wires ar
21. ning the tire with your feet Remove the spacer from the right hub Remove the speedo gear box from the left hub Roll tire out from the fender by tipping it slightly raise jack if necessary Check wheel bearings on both sides for smoothness and quietness Inspect break pads in both sets of calipers that they are not worn past the indicator grooves 17 Front Tire Change Hints Warm the tires in the sun A warm tire goes on much more easily When levering the last of the tire bead onto the wheel be absolutely certain the opposite bead is not seated but rather sgueezed into the middle of the wheel Put just the wheel no tire on it on the balancing stand and check for the heavy spot and use that rather than the tire stem for the heaviest spot Use automotive door protector trim on your wheel rims to prevent tire iron damage Place wheel on wooden support frame to prevent rotor damage Mark direction of rotation on wheel with a pencil Remove valve core Break bead all around on both sides Lube bead both sides tire lube or dish soap Pry off first side with two tire irons tape to avoid scratching the wheel Pry second side part way off from inside the wheel with tire iron s and then pound the rest off by hand using a rubber mallet tire and rim vertical 8 Align tire balance dots with tire stem and correct direction of rotation 9 Lube first bead of the new tire and push on with hands and knees 10
22. r 1 coolant drain heat gun tire change tools Misc compressed air anti seize carb cleaner rag clear tubing tygon cycle jack Fuel Tank Removal Parts Tools none screwdriver phillips screwdriver 8mm socket 12mm socket ratchet long extension slip joint pliers needle nose pliers rag Warning Gasoline is very combustible avoid all sparks or flames It is also a carcinogen 1 2 3 4 10 11 Ride bike until you go onto reserve getting excess gasoline weight out of the tank makes this job much easier Unlock front seat with key and remove the front seat Turn the fuel valve to OFF Insert a phillips screwdriver down the center off the fuel valve knob 3 inches and unscrew the hidden screw until the whole chrome knob assembly comes loose from the actual fuel valve You do not need to remove the chrome knob assembly just pivot it down out of the way Remove the front tank bolt using an 8mm socket and long extension Remove the rear tank bolt using a 12mm socket Pry up the rubber block under this bolt it may be sticking to the frame plate Lift the back of the tank a couple of inches being careful not to catch the actual fuel valve on the brake line clutch line With the back of the tank raised pry off the small fuel vent hose at the very back center of the tank You may or may not need to slide the clamp down the hose first with slip joint pliers You can now lift the tank a
23. r the front or rear is low on fluid be sure to check the brake pads for wear As the pads wear more fluid is taken into the system Clutch Fluid Reservoir 1 Same as Front Brake Fluid Reservoir above but on the left handlebar Brake and Clutch Fluid Replacement Bleeding the Brakes Note Honda calls for a fluid change every 12K miles or every 2 years Good brakes are too important to skip this relatively straight forward procedure Note There are some devices that aid in bleeding the brakes as you replace the fluid 1 Mityvac is a small hand held vacuum pump that sucks the brake fluid down and out through the bleeder nipple at each brake caliper It is available at most auto parts stores 2 Speed Bleeder is a one way valve bleeder nipple that replaces your stock bleeder nipples It is available A creer meee peedbleeder com 3 One Man Brake Bleeder is a one way valve that attaches to your stock bleeder nipple via a hose It is available at some auto parts stores 4 A turkey baster is handy for removing the old fluid from the reservoir before you add the fresh fluid Once you use it for brake fluid do not return it to the kitchen let your SO get a new one Note If bleeding by the standard method of pumping the lever do not pull the lever all the way to the handlebar or you will force the caliper piston to far out and possible ruin the seal This applies to the clutch and rear brake as well Note Check the shop manual for
24. rtain the No 1 piston is at TDC Top Dead Center the intake and exhaust valves for No 1 should wiggle slightly in and out If not turn the crankshaft a full 360 degrees counterclockwise to the same T1 2 mark and check the valves again for wiggle Cylinder Location the spark plug wires are also numbered as given below Right side front to rear 1 3 5 Left side front to rear 2 4 6 Valve Clearance Intake 006in 15mm Exhaust 009in 22mm Valve Location Intake Valves are on the top take air gas in from the carbs Exhaust Valves are on the bottom exhaust to the exhaust pipes 11 Insert the correct feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjuster screw There should be slight drag on the feeler gauge be sure that you do not have the gauge canted or curved as you are measuring You can use the go no go method a 008in gauge should not go into the 006 intake a 011 should not go into a 009 exhaust if adjusted properly A 007 gauge will go into the intake and a 010 gauge will go into the exhaust but will give a too tight drag 12 If any valve needs adjusting loosen the adjuster lock nut with a 10mm box wrench and turn the adjuster screw with a screwdriver to get the correct clearance slight drag on the feeler gauge 13 Slide the box wrench over the shaft of the screwdriver and hold the adjuster screw with the screwdriver while tightening the lock nut with the 10mm box wrench 1
25. ust pipes 7 Start the engine and be sure that it is idling at 900 rpm The idle adjust is a black knob located between the No 1 and 3 intake manifolds on the right side of the bike it is 2 inches farther in from the backside of the intakes It is easy to turn with one finger Note After starting the engine be sure not to blip the throttle rapidly when using mercury gauges as you can suck the mercury into the engine Let the throttle speed down slowly Note When using the screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw be sure to use light pressure on the screw Heavy pressure may affect the actual setting 8 Adjust carbs No 1 and 5 to read the same as No 3 The adjustment screw is the blue painted phillips screw next to each carb The No 3 carb has no adjustment screw No 4 is connected to the vacuum gauge but will be adjusted in a later step Note Honda specification calls for the carbs to be within 40mm 1 6 inches of mercury but you can do better probably within 5 10mm 9 Slowly rev the engine a couple of times and recheck the balance Note Some people prefer to balance the carbs at 3000 rpm cruising speed 10 Shut the engine off and remove the vacuum gauge hoses from No 1 and 5 intake manifolds 11 Reinstall the caps on No 1 and No 5 intake manifolds 12 Remove the clamped vacuum hose from No 6 leave the clamp on and the cap from No 2 13 Move the vacuum gauge to the left side of the bike and connect the t
26. utomotive antifreeze Be certain to use Honda motorcycle coolant or automotive coolant that is silicate free 1 2 3 4 5 Be sure to do this procedure with a cold engine Loosen the setscrew in the radiator cap with phillips screwdriver Follow the lower radiator hose down to the water pump housing on the front of the engine and remove the very bottom center drain bolt 10mm Remove the radiator cap Drain the coolant into the drain pan Note Dispose of the coolant in a safe manner Ethylene glycol tastes sweet but is very deadly to animals which may come along and drink it if you drain it onto the ground It is equally toxic to children which are attracted to its lovely color Reinstall the drain bolt with a new drain seal washer careful this bolt can break easily 7 ft lb Remove the left side cover to gain access to the coolant reservoir Remove the reservoir mounting bolt and the breather hose by the cap Dump the coolant into your drain pan Reinstall the reservoir being careful that all the hoses are in place Dilute the antifreeze 50 50 with distilled water not tap water Fillthe radiator with 4 guarts of this 50 50 mix Fill the coolant reservoir to the upper line with 1 quart of this 50 50 mix You next want to bleed the air out by putting the transmission into neutral and starting the engine Run the engine at idle for 2 3 minutes and then blip the throttle 3 4 times to dislodge any tr
27. ve the exhaust mufflers 1 Raise the bike up on Cycle Lift rear tire just off the ground transmission in first gear 2 Remove the left and right saddle bags four bolts each 8mm Note For an easy bag removal kit see http www rattlebars com 3 Remove the two nuts 12mm at each rear muffler hanger Note It may be possible to skip Step 4 by forcing the mufflers out of the way by putting a wedge such as a small piece of wood between the muffler and the hanger Note Sears has a inch drive 10mm flex socket that can make the next step easier 4 Remove the six nuts at the front exhaust headers 10mm long extension 10mm open end box wrench for the 3 hard to reach nuts on the right inside exhaust remove these 3 first Leave the front most exhaust nut screwed on a little bit to hold the exhaust up as you pivot the muffler down in the next step 5 Pull the muffler out from the rear hanger and let it swing down as far as it will go Note know that many owners are very reluctant to remove the bags and especially the exhaust system The bags literally come off in seconds and make the job much easier The exhaust comes off in a couple of minutes and greatly eases access to the axle and axle nut 6 Remove the axle nut on the left side 27mm or 1 1 16 or tool kit 7 Remove the rear brake caliper stop bolt 14mm located in the swing arm 2 inches below and to the front of the left bottom shock bolt 8 Spin the axle from the right
28. ve the spark plug caps Blow compressed air around the plug well there is often dirt here that can fall into the cylinder when you remove the spark plug Note If you do not have an air compressor you can get a compressed air tank at any Xmart automotive department or you can get a small can of compressed air at any photo or computer supply store 3 4 Remove the spark plugs and check each for abnormalities carbon or oil deposits burned electrodes etc Check and set the gap on the new spark plugs to 031 035 inch gap 8 9mm using a wire spark plug gauge Apply a tiny amount of anti seize to the spark plug threads Install the plugs by hand using only the spark plug socket and the short extension to avoid any possibility of crossthreading them Torque the plugs to 12 ft lb 16 Nm Push the spark plug wire caps firmly onto the spark plugs Timing Cam Belts Note Honda only calls for an inspection at 100K miles Most automotive timing belts are replaced at 60K miles would suggest that you check the tension at each 12K service and change the belts at 50K miles if you mostly ride hard or replace the belts at 75K miles if you mostly do highway riding 1 Remove the timing belt cover Warning Use caution when removing the top left bolt near the round crank pulley cover It has sealant on it and may break off 2 3 4 Inspect the belts for cracks worn teeth contamination etc Check the belt tens
29. ver forward to unhinge front tab Remove the 10mm bolts on each side holding the front cover in place do not lose the spacer sleeves Put masking tape below the seat lock and put a mark 1 1 2 directly below the CENTER of the seat lock Working on the left side of the bike swing the front cover toward you slightly and drill a small pilot hole at the mark and then a 5 16 final hole Do not mount the fill valve yet Run the air lines from the shocks to the fill valve Connect all air fittings as given in the Progessive instructions finger tighten only Inflate to 50 psi at the fill valve it only takes a very small amount of air be careful Use soap suds to check all fittings both shocks and fill valve for leaks Install the fill valve into the front cover using the nuts and washers supplied Use plastic zip ties to hold the air lines in place Reinstall front cover and side covers Adjust experiment the air shocks for solo 10 25 psi two up 40 70 psi Web publishing courtesy Rattlebars Mfg Visit us at rattlebars com 23
30. wo free gauge hoses to No 2 and 6 intake manifolds No 4 was connected in step 6 Note If mercury got stuck in the vacuum gauge columns when you shut the engine off you can blow into the end of the vacuum gauge hose to force the mercury back into the reservoir 14 Repeat steps 7 8 and 9 to balance carbs No 2 4 and 6 on the left side 15 Shut the engine off and remove all four vacuum gauge hoses 16 Install the vacuum hoses and caps to all intake manifolds Hose No 3 6 4 Cap No 1 5 2 17 Remove the clamp from No 6 18 Install the chrome linkage covers 3 phillips screws each Be sure to get the cable hooked on the front inside of the left linkage cover when installing 19 Take bike out for a test drive 12 Idle Speed Adjustment Start the engine and be sure that it is idling at 900 rpm The idle adjust is a black or gray knob located between the No 1 and 3 intake manifolds on the right side of the bike it is 2 inches farther in from the backside of the intakes It is easy to turn with one finger Coolant Change Parts Tools antifreeze silicate free 10mm socket distilled water ONLY drain pan drain seal washer phillips screwdriver Note This procedure is often overlooked be sure to change your coolant every two years to prevent cooling system corrosion Note Motorcycle Consumer News investigated a rash of water pump seal failures in Gold Wings and concluded the cause was from silicates found in regular a
31. xle with fine sandpaper and grease lightly to help prevent corrosion and ease installation Note Take a good look at the axle sleeve that runs through the final drive and note that it can easily pivot off center in any direction and thus prevent the wheel flange from sliding in Be sure this axle sleeve stays centered 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Loosen the 4 final drive mounting nuts 14mm socket 1 1 2 extension a couple of turns until they are finger loose This step is critical to achieve proper alignment of the final drive and prevent premature failure of the splines Start the axle in from the right side a short ways Lift the wheel into place on the final drive Push the axle into place by hand and then gently tap it through just flush with the spacer collar on the left side using a rubber mallet Carefully spread the brake pads with a large screwdriver While sliding the brake pads caliper over the rotor position the caliper bracket into place Gently tap the axle the rest of the way through being sure that the axle is lined up with its hole in the swing arm Note The following tightening seguence is critical to achieve proper spline alignment 39 36 Install the rear brake stopper bolt 14mm and torque to 51 ft lb 69Nm Install the axle nut 27mm or 1 1 16 and torque to 81 ft lb 110Nm Torque the 4 final drive nuts to 47 ft lb 64Nm Shift the transmission into neutral and turn the re

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