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White Sewing Machine 1599 User's Manual

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1. SEWING MACHINE WHITE 1 2 3 COON 10 SEWING ON BUTTONS OVERLOCKING STRETCH SEAM ZIPPER SEWING SHELL STITCHING c cceceeeerteees PIN TUCKING QUILTING MENDING APPLIQUE WORK MAINTENANCE CONTENTS NAMES OF PARTS uuu cccccccccccccccceccescceee cee ee cere reer eee eeenEEED DELLS DEDEDE EE SS SERES OEE eDter EAHA Hoa GaaG EES sees eeteneanaoea 2 ACCESSORIES BEFORE SEWING OEE PEED DOES EOSSSOEESESOSSOSOSOEIONSSOOCIOSOSSOSSOIICOEOOOOCOSICIION 4 Detaching Extension Table Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord seereserrisererirsrisreerrnsernrererterartnsrstnsnternntreettnt 5 Changing Needle cece ceceteeeeeeers Changing Foot Bobbin Winding 00 cc cease ceeseeeeceeeeenenneeeeeeeeeeeeeeseneceneeseseneeenenaeere Inserting Bobbin ees Adjusting Lower Tension Drop Feed Lever rre Threading Upper Thread tee Twin Needle Threading Decorative Tucks or DesignsS e sesersrererrsrsrrerseeneree Drawing Up Lower Thread Foot Pressure ierre Fabric Thread and Needle Table Pattern Setting ccc cece cece cease eee a teen ane eeneseenmaneneseaaeeneeees STRAIGHT SEWING 00 eer ir rteninnnrininenereneres Pattern Selection Dial Stitch Length Dial ee ccereeteereeeeeeeeeere Starting to
2. SOW cece etcetera cs eeteeeeneee eee cnnee seen nencaaanenesennnennegenenenees Double Presser Foot Lifter c ccc ceccceeeeeecnree eee seeeeseneeeeceneeerenesesetees Cloth Guide oo ccc cc cceecccneeeeseeeeneeenaeeeeeenegeneseecneeestareserssssesegeeeasoees Adjusting Thread Tension Applications of Straight Stitch ZIGZAG SEWING n on Zigzag Width Control ereeereees Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch ce MAKING BUTTONHOLES eect terete esereaee Determine Length eeeeeeeeeeee Determine Width reece Buttonhole Density Adjustment Cutting Buttonhole csr eenereerteee rte terearneasrneeesteeeeneeernyees OVERCASTING Application of Rick Rack e Application of Decorative Fun Patterns STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH onere Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance cece tener eee rn cereeaeeenneeereneeenee BLIND HEM STITCH eee eee eee eee eee Elastic Blind Hem Stitch Cleaning ccs Oiling TROUBLE CHAAT Changing Light Bulb ce eceeencneerenceereeertraneeeernreeeeneecteseensesaeneseeesaereeaeeneeeseanenye 1 NAMES OF PARTS OOMONA MAHON Thread guide for bobbin winding Foot pressure regulator Upper thread tension dial Face cover Thread guide for upper threading Presser foot thumb screw Presser foot Shuttle cover Top cover Bobbin win
3. edge of the patch on the right side Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching Sew the edges of tear together first Then sew two more seams on either side A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip Darning Set machine as shown Stretch fabric over the hoop or sew with free arm according to the part you are going to darn Sew over the worn out part with closely spaced stitches guiding material back and forth by hand By making turning points blunt the darned part becomes softer and more flexible 19 APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out Place cut out on base material and baste it Sew around outline with zigzag Stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut out and type of base material To change direction at corners or to sew very small circles stop machine positioning needle just away from edge of cut out lift press er foot and turn material Lower presser foot and continue sewing Sew a few stitches at end with zig zag width at 0 This is to prevent unstitching 42 BOS PRED IENE He as A IEEE STEER CLIT TOTES UTE BITTER TREES EMOTE SECC NEOVO PEREU RE ETETE ELE OIRELE EPA CL LE LIES PLES TELLS DLE DESL ERC LII ERERKE
4. separately to right and left of tension disc At guide pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide At point thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye and from left guide to left needle eye Allow about 15cm 6 of thread extra Decorative Tucks or Designs Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects Most attractive are the multiple stitch zig zag and blind hem stitch for fancy tucks The satin stitch or tapered zigzag designs in two colors are ef fective for creative trims CAUTION Remember to use no more than 2 5 zigzag width Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold the end of upper thread with left hand Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop Pull out both threads about 15cm 6 and place them together under presser foot to left NOTE Always place thread to the back or left when starting to sew a seam Failure to do this may cause thread jamming Foot Pressure To increase the pressure turn the regulator clockwise and to reduce the pressure turn the regulator counter clockwise Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric reduce the pressure When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric reduce th
5. shown To prevent seam ends unravelling set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number Larger the number wider the stitch Set it at O for straight sewing Make sure needle is in upper posi tion when you set control and extra thread is placed to the left or rear Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch es none Better looking zigzag stitching requires less upper tension than straight stitching Loosen upper tension slightly 6 MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown Determine Length Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0 3cm 1 8 for bar tacks Mark buttonhole size on material Determine Width Determine width according to di ameter of button its thickness and kind of material Attach buttonhole foot Completely push back sliding part of buttonhole foot Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot Arrow ib of foot indicates beginning line of marking Extra thread is placed under foot and then to left or back marking i Ss S 0 30m 1 8 i length of a buttonhole diameter thickness marking SON J aE poe l n i E Bar tacking Set pattern selection dial to 1 8 and
6. the rick rack stitch Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair B Tapering Rick Rack The rick rack stitch may be tapered to form creative stems and petals of flowers embroidered pictures and wall hangings As in tapering the zigzag slowly turn the stitch width dial from 0 to 5 and back to 0 A group of these tapered rick rack stitch will form a bouquet like effect C Procedure e The elastic rick rack stitch is a zigzag line of stitching that is desired so that seams may be pressed open e Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both wovens and knits e Use narrow width of zigzag as a heavy duty triple stitch for seams s Use medium and wide widths of zigzag for overcasting edges of seams facings and hems of heav ier weight fabrics such as terry cloth and for attaching elastic e Use also for decorative stitching e Guide your fabric from the front Do not pull or push as it will cause poor stitching 31 Regular Zigzag Stitch Application of Decorative Fun Patterns A Fun stitches Briar The reverse stitch patterns produce briar designs for use on household linens and children clothes These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems The reverse stitch patterns can also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect This is done
7. N AIA TUBER TAR SESE I ITER TTS ERII TORIES ES IDLE EEE EE Ds z ET TERURE PR SRR Set machine as shown Remove foot and holder screw To avoid lower thread being pulled up reduce upper thread tension For good embroidery it is important to use correct needles and thread Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop Made sure material is taut Pull up lower thread by turning handwheel towards you while hold ing upper thread lightly Lower presser foot lifter Grasp lower thread then make two or three stitches snip off excess threads Start sewing along outline of design with satin stitch Continue sewing with guiding hoop by hand To finish filling sew several stitches with zigzag width at 0 Lay typewriting paper underneath when embroidering sheer fabric Thread No 9 120 100 No 11 100 80 60 50 243 cece tO RAS ROLES EAE 20 MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month Cleaning Remove foot and needle Remove needle plate Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush Turn latches outwards Remove hook race cover Remove hook Clean hook race with a cl
8. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown H you need to move needle position to left side set zigzag width control 5 Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern Dial can be turned either to right or to left Always make sure needle is in the highest position when oper ating dial Stitch Length Dial Set dial at indicating point amp ac cording to stitch size required For a longer stitch turn dial to right For a shorter stitch turn it to left For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3 Place fabric under foot about 1cm 0 4 inside the edge Lower presser foot lifter Double Presser Foot Lifter in order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go To reinforce seam sew backwards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever Hold lever down for longer reverse sewing Release lever and commence for ward sewing guiding fabric by hand as it is fed Never pull material Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material Set guide in hole on arm at right of needle plate and adjust distance Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam Sew reverse stitches for reinforce ment at end of seam Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished Cut threads with thread cutter beh
9. at all 0 Elastic Blind Hem Stitch For elastic materials set machine as shown and sew in the same way as for normal blind hem stitch 34 5 12 STRETCH SEAM A ball point needle is essential Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding a Medium weight fabrics Double knit jersey Apply elastic triple straight stitch b Light weight fabrics Apply small zigzag Reduce upper and lower thread tension c For Very elastic fabrics Spandex power net Use lapped or abutted seam Apply multiple zigzag 13 ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown Used for dresses blouses skirts trousers bags etc By using the special zipper foot zip per sewing can be easily done 1 With right sides together tack along seam line of the opening 2 Open the tacked seam and pull out the lower material 0 3cm Place the folded edge over the right side of the zipper and tack over it 3 Replace the presser foot with the zipper foot on the left of the needle The zipper foot can be shifted either to the right or the left of the zipper so the zipper can be sewn without difficulty Stitch from the bottom to the top Remove the tacking 4 Turn the material to the right side Ease the material and the zip per Tack a measured 1 3cm 2 from the tacked seam as a stiching guide Shift the zipper f
10. at right side stitches drop out side the edge of material Then press flat in some cases overlocking stitches can be used for overcasting 10 STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown are all used with stretch and knit fabrics These are special utility stitches built in the machine for your quick selection oa oO 10 Straight stretch 11 Rickrack briar stretch 12 Overlock stretch 13 Double overlock stretch 14 Briar stitch IINNINVINNIN Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance In stretch stitch sewing the stretch stitch adjuster shouid usually be in an a neutral position between and When sewing some fabrics you may need to adjust this control to balance the stitches for appearance sake if design seems open like the illus trations to the left adjust the con trol slightly toward until design looks like the center design If the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations turn the contro toward until stitch ing is as you desire This dial can simultaneously adjust left and right side balance of buttonhole Therefore please refer to page 25 when you move this dial Always return to center position after making adjustments for stretch stitches ence A A EROS SEABIRDS EDD DELLE LEE LISD ESE MBC LMI ISLA RA LGU RPO Application of Rick Rack A Topstitching Rick Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with
11. correctly P17 fed correctly Incorrect feed dog height P12 Lint stuck on the feed dog P44 4 Noisy machine Check for thread in race the P45 slightest amount of thread in race may cause noise or binding use material like tooth pick or cotton swab to ciean 46
12. ding spindle Screw hole for extra spool pin Zigzag width control Special buttonhole adjustment Stitch length dial Reverse sewing lever Pattern selection dial Free arm Drop feed lever Handwheel Stop motion knob Socket Handle Presser foot lifter Feed dog Needle plate Switch Specifications vary from country to country 2 ACCESSORIES Felts 2 pcs Bobbins 3 pcs BOS Buttonhole foot e Needles aan aaa a Ordinary needles 3 pcs n enno Button sewing foot Ball point needle 1 pc gole Twin needle 1 pc Extra spool pin For twin needle RD AM sewing Zipper foot gid Spool cover Quilting guide Oiler 1l Cloth guide Screw drivers a a i small Buttonhole cutter lt Be large T yag 3 BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat bed style which makes your work easier for ordinary sewing Detaching Extension Table Slide off and the machine is used as a free arm model To open top cover of accessory box push open as illustrated Do vice versa of above steps to at tach extension table Free arm is convenient to sew or embroider trousers sleeves cuffs T shirts blouses etc Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot controller and power cord Before piugging in your machine be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine writte
13. e pressure Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics Fabric Thread and Needle Table THREAD NEEDLE T m Cotton FABRIC European Mercerized Covered European U S Size Point REMARKS Polyester Cotton Cotton Silk Nylon 705 15x1 Style then Arne 4 VERY SHEER LACE Silk 65 70 Regular Loosen up Voile Chiffon Net 70 60 Nylon per tension one or two SHEER Blouse Crepe Silk E Lawn Organdy Taffera 60 Nylon 65 70 Regular LIGHT WEIGHT Crepe Wool Brocade Velvet MEDIUM Wool Silk Linen Velvetten Pique Regular Faille Terrycloth HEAVY Denim Duck Saiicloth EXTRA HEAVY Upholstery Canvas Regular Awning 50 Silk 75 80 Regular Regular KNITS LIGHT WEIGHT Tricot Light Power net Ball MEDIUM WEIGHT Light to Jersey Double Knit Medium Power Net Ball Medium HEAVY WEIGHT Double to Heavy knit Power Net Ball Ball or FAKE FURS VELOURS Sharp LEATHER VINYLS FILMS LIGHTTO MEDIUM WEIGHT HEAVY LEATHER DECORATIVE TOUCHES TOP STITCHING Silk twist Regular MACHINE EMBROIDERY Size 50 70 Regular Pattern Setting e p TWIN NEEDLE PATTERN NAME BUTTONHOLE STRAIGHT BLIND HEM STRETCH BLIND HEM MULTIPLE ZIG ZAG MINUS AHINVIINSIINS ONO awe STRAIGHT STRETCH RICK RACK OVERLOOK OVERLOCK 18 4
14. eaning brush and a soft cloth 44 Oiling Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machine use Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam Apply one drop of oil to hook where friction occurs Replace hook and race cover care fully turn handwheel manually to insure correct assembly Open face cover and apply oil to points indicated with arrow Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty After oiling run machine for 1 2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part Remove top cover by loosening screws and with large screwdriver Be a R REOS EEEO OSISED COROREETEELLESOPREL IRINEI EEEE 21 TROUBLE CHART PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Breaking lower thread not wound evenly on the bobbin P10 P15 thread or not drawn up correctly Lower thread tension too tight P12 Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside Remove lint the tension spring and fluff with a cleaning brush Skipping stitches Needle not fully inserted P 6 Needle bent P6 Size or type of needle and thread not P16 suitable for the material Incorrect upper threading P13 Too much oil on the hook P45 a Irregular stitches Incorrect size of needle for the material P16 Upper thread tension too loose P20 Incorrect lower tension P12 _ The material not Pattern selection dial not set
15. in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch The straight stitched edge of the reverse stitch patterns on the left should be sewn on the left edge of the binding or ribbon This decorative effect can be used on towels and placemats for a pleasant appearance The reverse stitch pat terns can also be corded for stronger decorative edges on place mats and tablecloths Simply place four strands of pearl cotton embroidery floss or yarn under the presser foot A transparent foot will help guide the cord evenly while sewing the reverse stitch patterns The reverse stitch patterns can be sewn with two threads through one needie for a more effective decora tive stitch Simply thread two sewing threads through the upper threading system A larger needle should be used to accommodate the two threads Use this decorative technique for enhancing tablecloths placemats napkins and curtains NOTE Narrow patterns may be made by setting zigzag width to 4 3 2 11 BLIND HEM STITCH Set machine as shown i Fold material as shown and place under foot For a neater finish it is preferable to baste or iron the hem beforehand 3 5mm 0 2 av Sew carefully so that straight stitches are made on hem edge and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold Correct seam right side wrong side b Needle is catching edge of fold too much Needle is not catching edge of fold
16. ind presser bar Adjusting Thread Tension Test stitch performance on a scrap of material you are going to use With correct tension upper and lower threads tension is equal and strong enough to lock both threads in center If upper tension is too tight loose upper lower thread lies straight along upper lower surface of fabric Correct by turning ten sion dial Applications of Straight Stitch A Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3 but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage Usually heavier fabrics require longer stitches and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam B Basting Topstitching Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness Topstitching can be done very effec tively with the long straight stitch For a bolder stitch two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle size 14 or 16 A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist may be used for topstitching but be sure to use a larger needle size 16 or 18 The triple stretch straight stitch may be uses but caution must be used as this stitch is difficult to remove ande 5 ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as
17. n on a plate at back of machine Specifications vary from country to country a Put power switch on the machine and turn on the sewing light b Push button to turn sewing light on and off Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use Specifications vary from country to country The more you press foot controller the faster the machine runs CAUTION When machine is not in use always detach plug from wall outlet Proper needle Straight shaft sharp point a lt lt o x K SS Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle With flat face away from you insert a new needie into groove of needle bar Push needie until it reaches stopper and tighten needle clamp screw firmly Always use a straight needle with a sharp point Using defective or worn needies not only causes stitch skipping break age of needles or snapping of thread it also can damage hook and needle plate Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you 1 Push button of holder towards you and foot will come off 2 Position a new foot by aligning holding groove of shank with pin of foot 3 Lower presser foot lifter so that holder catches presser foot Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest
18. oot to the right of the needle Doublestitch across the lower end then up along the zipper Remove the tacking 14 SHELL STITCHING Silk nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable Set machine as shown Fold edge of material With folded edge to left place it under presser foot Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the shell effects Always return the tension setting to normal when finishing the shell effect Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways 15 PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown For better appearance use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little For twin needle threading see p 14 insert the quilting guide under the spring plate on the holder Mark first line with pencil or tailor s chalk and sew From second line just sew follow ing seam of first line using guide Interval between seams can be adjusted by moving guide in direction of arrow 16 QUILTING Set machine as shown Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking 17 MENDING Patching Set machine as shown Place the patch over the worn part Pull thread ends toward back or left when starting sewing Sew along the
19. or pin through bar tacks to prevent over cutting Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter 7 SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown Position a button and material un der foot When needle comes to left side of stitch lower foot Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button Make one stitch be certain that nee dle is aligned with botton s holes Run machine at medium speed and sew 5 6 zigzag stitches Stop machine when needle is in upper position Set zigzag width control to 0 align needle with button s hole and sew 3 4 stitches to prevent stitches from unlocking OR Remove work and cut off threads Draw thread ends through to wrong side and tie a knot 8 OVERCASTING For light weight material Set machine as shown Overcasting prevents edge of fabric from fraying and produces neat finish Sew carefully so that all stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric For thick and elastic material Set machine as shown Sew in the same way above CLAD G LLL LOMA LELLE LLL LALLA LILLD ENED LDESTIIID LITA INTIS SILLS ATONE e rst 9 OVERLOCKING Overlocking stitches make it possi ble to sew and overcast seams at the same time Set machine as shown Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew To prevent edges from fraying sew so th
20. position by turning handwheel towards you Open shuttle cover Open latch of bobbin case and remove case Release latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily Push back to fold handle Open top cover Put a spool on spool pin Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pretension device following numbers and Caution Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool Wind thread clockwise around bob bin several times Push bobbin onto spindie Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob a correction Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller Machine stops automatically when bobbin is full Push bobbin to left to disengage from wheel Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread Retighten stop motion knob If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown open top cover and use screw driver to adjust the guide for bobbin winding Inserting Bobbin Place bobbinin case with thread running in direction of arrow Guide thread into slot of bobbin case Pulling thread to left bring it under tension spring then to delivery groove loosen Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension hang and shake bobbin case as shown At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amo
21. sew 5 6 stitches Left side Change pattern to 2 Sew left side from front to back un til it reaches end line Remember the point of arrow so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes Bar tacking Change pattern to 3 and sew 5 6 stitches Right side Change pattern to 4 E and sew right side until it reaches first bar tack Quick finish To prevent unstitching set zigzag width at 0 and proceed for a few stitches Buttonhole Density Adjustment Adjustment is located to right of stitch length dial With some materials it is possible that the sides or density of a button hole will vary it is possible to adjust or balance these sides by turning the special buttonhole adjustment to 4 or to attain a correct balance It is advised to always turn this ad justment to center as this may vary some of the other stitches slightly if the stitches on the right side of the buttonhole are too open turn the dial counter clockwise Turning dial counter clockwise closes right side and opens left side if the stitches on the right side of the buttonhole are too close together turn the dial clockwise Turning dial clockwise opens right side and closes left side This dial can simultaneously adjust stretch stitch balance Therefore please refer to page 30 when you move this dial 25 26 Cutting Buttonholes Stick a needle
22. unt To adjust tension turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver Raise needle to highest position Leave end of thread of about 10 cm 4 from bobbin case Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted Drop Feed Lever The lever is in the right side of shuttle cover For normal sewing move the lever to AAA position To lower feed dog move the lever to AAA position This position is used for button sewing darning and embroidery Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot Set take up lever to the highest po sition by turning handwheel towards you Open top cover and put spool into spool pin Caution Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool Thread following numbers Pass thread through guide then to Lead thread thru either side of ten sion disc Hook it to lower guide from right to left upwards i Thread take up lever Pass thread to guide from right to left and needle guide use left one then to needle eye Allow about 15cm 6 of thread extra 14 Twin Needle Threading Extra spool pin is packed in accessory tray Screw thread extra spool pin in screw hole place a felt and put another spool Thread in the same way as normal threading except at points and At point pass threads

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