Sears 385.17724 Sewing Machine User Manual
Contents
1. Here s How 1 2 Lower the presser foot Keep the edge of the fabric next to the right edge of the presser foot Evenly guide the fabric along this edge to produce an even row of topstitching 5 8 from the edge 29 30 Top thread tension control 2108 No presser foot Darning plate control 0 d 2 2 9 5 Stitch length controi any number inot necessary to adiust di 0 4 Stretch Stitch Set the Machine E Stitch width Here s How 1 Put the darn ng plate on the needle plate isee page 29 2 Remove presser foot and toot holder see page 10 stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered 3 Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning 4 Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow speed 5 Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area 6 Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother layer of stitching over the first layer NOTE If your tabric is thin or badly damaged do use a separate piece of tabric under the hole to reinforce it When you finish darning remove the darning plate and replace foot holder and foot Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 H Straight foot M Stitch width control G 123 o MS Stitch fength control veliow stretch stitch2. Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach STRETCH PATCHING TWO POINT SHELL STITCHING Needie Stitch Length Orange Zone Yellow Streteh Stitch Position 0 5 2 Stitch Width Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Zone Use for overlapping seams Use for applying elastic Join two folded edges tor decorative open work appearance Use for patchwork quilting Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie This stitch can also be used as a single overiock stitch as well Refer to Page 53 53 52 51 50 25 HERRING BONE STRETCH TWO POINT BOX STITCH OVEREDGE STITCH DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS SATIN STITCH Needie Thread Tension 2 6 Stitch Length Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Use as hemming stitch tor blankets table cloth and draperies Use tor overlapping seams Refer to Page Use for Overedging Decorate garments with one row or several one stitch or a combination Use for applique work also as decorative finish for placemats blankets collars cuffs and pockets r Stritch Thread Stitch Stitch dai Soa pae ii EE Si 2 6 3 5 Stiding Check Blue Zone Buttonholes also corded buttonholes 42 43 1 buttonhole Chart Blue Zone on p 14 BUTTONHOLE l 2 Buttonhole Check 2 6 4
3. t oO mn e Ww Draw thread into thread guide using both hands While holding thread near spool draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder Firmly draw thread up and through take up lever from right to left Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide Thread needle from front to back NOTE You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needie threading 17 Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear i Raise presser foot lever Hold 2 Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3 needle thread loosely in left hand top thread and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn 18 Bobbin thread For Straight Stitch Setting mark Loosen Tighten The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric as shown above magnified to show detail if you look at the stitch tront and back you will notice that there are no gaps that each stitch is smooth and even When adjusting top thread tension the higher the number the tighter the top thread Choose the Correct Tension The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thickness of the fabric the number of tabric layers the type of stitch The top thread ss too loose Top side of tebric The top thr
4. For 90 days from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary tor proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE CENTER DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary trom state to state SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO D 817 WA Hoffman Estates IL 60179 hi T T AT ctis ET EA ET DE EE TE TE RE RE AE AA OT AI AA AT aee d aee cit TT VET AT NT AE AT AE AE AT AT lh AE AT AE MT TT coe ar EE EP EA AT AT AT AE AE AE i Mee cnn ATR cs AI AA n d ibo Eks e HE e co cae EE ge os veer cus le HER ae Eis onl HE ondier ER SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine should a need ever exist for repair parts or service simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine See page 3 for location WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM PART DESCRIPTION lf the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO
5. 48 49 Use on knits and other stretch tabrics good tor topstitching 30 Fintsh edges buttons satin stitch applique monagram embroidery sewing bar tacks Decorate garments with one row or several 31 35 36 Use for finishing seams 39 23 Foot and Other Attach Selection OVERCAST Zigzag Check STRETCH Chart d on p 14 THREE STEP Zigzag Check ZIGZAG Chart mom Ma on p 14 23 lt Er gt lt SMOCKING Zigzag Check STITCH Chart on p 14 SUM FM MAS ENE NM PATI SNAM SEX SHELL Satin Check STITCH Chart onp id SERGING Zigzag Blue 11 onp 14 24 Thread Tension Stitch Length Yeliow 3 5 Stretch Stitch Position DE 1 5 Use tor swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch Use for finishing seams Refer to Page 37 Yellow 3 8 Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch T s 2 6 4 9 Stretch Stitch Position Orange 375 Finish hems sleeve and neck openings 50 Zone Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie L Yelow 3 5 Finish hems sleeve and neck openings 38 Stretch Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to Stitch overcast and seam Position Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie BOX STITCHING ELASTIC STRETCH FAGOTING
6. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine ts designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use Read all instruction before using this sewing machine DAN G E R To reduce the risk of electric shock 1 An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning Always unplug before relamping Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water immediately Unpiug Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid VVAR NI N G To reduce the risk ot burns fire electric shock or injury to persons Do not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual Use oniy attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug if it is not working properiy if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical adjustment 10 11 12 13 14 15 Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked Keep ventilation openings of the sewi
7. Stretch the fabric between embror dery hoops and place under the needle Lower the presser foot lever to engage the top thread tension Holding the top thread in your left hand rotate the hand wheel toward you one complete turn Pull the top thread to draw the bobbin thread through to the surface of the fabric Using a medium speed stitch along the marked outline guiding the fabric carefully by hand e Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch width control Must be adjusted H a Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch Jength control Any number inot necessary to adjust br ti iif o 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot Darning plate 1 2 Use the darning plate for button sewing see page 29 Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser foot Adiust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole Lower the foot to hold the button in place Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the button Stitch several times To strengthen the shank cut the threads leaving a 8 tail Bring the needie thread down through the hole in the button and wind it around the shank Draw the thread to the bottom side and knot 35 e Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to n 12 3 Top thread tension control 3 t0 8 Stitch length zone 2 ER
8. Turn under the right seam allow ance to form a 1 8 fold Place the zipper teeth next to the 1 8 fold and pin in place na Attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot Lower the zipper foot on the top side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces the fold and the zipper tape Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the slider begins Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot 8 Open the zipper 10 Close the zipper and turn the 11 Remove the zipper foot and 14 Stop about 2 from the top of the 9 Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side up attach the presser bar to the left zipper he rest of the seam pins on the zipper foot 15 Lower the needle into the fabric 12 Stitch across and below the bot and raise the presser foot tom of the zipper 16 Remove the basting stitches and 13 Turn the corner and continue to open the zipper guide the toot along the zipper teeth as shown Stitch through the tabric and zipper tape 17 Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam Make sure the fold is even 48 Set the Machine Stitch width contro 3 to 5 2_3 E A Top thread tension control 4 to 8 Stitch length control orange zone ZS UN o 4 Stretch Stitch FE Satin stitch toot The Stitch and Its Uses The Sheli Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded
9. 3 21 T Take up lever kk qx Era Ze 11 Thread guide figa 473 12 Three step zigzag lt Lee 24 37 Topstitching lt sonoros ooo oe 23 28 Top thread oaaao ac aa 17720 Top thread tension 19 20 Top thread tension control 2 19 20 Turning a square corner 28 Two point box stitching 26 54 Two point shell stitching 25 50 Z Zigzag foot Met siasi rrr S DE TE 22s ss 11 23728 31 35 40 50 53 60 61 Zigzag stitching 23 31936 Zigzag overcasting 36 Zipper application 23 48 49 Zipper foot 4 12 23 48 49 60 61 63 je sr Mn Dr He ee i in ite e ER ie Er Hb ED ins Er cc ER HE Ge i cae di ie di ces HE AE Tis Er Ihe Qe Din EP Er Qe EE vy ns or De Mr Hoe ae ri pe bs dr ve Li E WARRANTY FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years trom the date of purchase Sears will free of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date ot purchase Sears will free of charge repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine including electronic components motor wiring switch and speed control FULL 90 DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
10. Change the Presser Foot si EE ye 10 e Presser Foot Types Mace at V 11713 Choose Your Needle and Thread 22 13014 e Check YourNeesdle 2 2 2 ciliis 13 s Fabric Needle Thread and Stitch Length Chart 14 e To Change Your Needle PPP MESO BAAN C Prepare the Bobbin L00040 15 16 s To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine 15 e Wind the Bobbin i ciii 18 e insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder 16 Prepare Your Top Thread ss ses sag 17 20 o Thread Your Needle EE Es 17 Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread 18 e Adjust the Top Thread Tension del user Stitch Selector m so ta Al e ede 20 Stitch Width Control I uut Gongs ul Stitch Length Control RE MR Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance 5 21 Reverse Stitch Control es ky ss ss 22 Starting TA SEWE LR Rg gl LE een 22 LEARN THE STITCHES Practical Stitch Chart aaua aaao aaa eroa 2321 Straight Stitches MEE RE ET Cae ed Straight Stitch sesse 28 e Use the Seam Guides 22 2 0 ee 28 e Turn a Square Corner iss ss 28 e Use the Darning Plate 23 a dirla lee he Qr amp LODSUtchili cues eon lee et 29 SECTION 4 SECTION 5 Darning ois ELE eda Nerf t 30 Straight Stretch uuu Ee base cu REAL xr E NU 30 Zigzag Stitches ee ra 31 38 e Basic Zigzag 2 2 ee ee le sus peras 1 e Satin Stitch SE 32 e Appli
11. Chicago 1 60684 U S A p AAA Printed in Taiwan Part No 652800443 Cd
12. fabric Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks Shell stitching can be used to finish hems sleeve and neck openings Shell tucking can be used to create scalloped tucks on blouses and lingerie 50 Here s How 1 For best effect set the stitch length as you desire you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric when it zigzags 2 f you sew rows of shell stitches space the rows 5 8 apart You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or soft silky wovens in any direction Set the Machine Stitch width L control 3 to 5 gt 2 3 C 9 SS gt r Top thread tension control 3 to B Stitch length control orange zone Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well smocking Set the Machine Stitch width i control 3 to 5 ALT Top thread tension control 2 ta 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position ET Ni dj 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot With the stitch length at 4 sew straight stitching lines 3 8 across the area to be smocked Knot the threads along one edge Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly Secure the threads at the other end Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches Pull out the ga
13. finishing seams Seam Finishing Overcasting Mending Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides the right hand side of the presser foot Guide the work so the right hand stitches tall at the edge of the fabric 37 s Overcast Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 4 23 oz 5 Top thread tension contro 2 to 6 Stitch iength contro yellow stretch stitch position e_N if N 0 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot The Stitch and its Uses This stitch can be used tor sewing a seam with an overcast finish The seam is formed and finished in one operation it can be used when you are making swimwear ski pants and other garments that require stretch 38 Here s How Piace the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle as shown Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge Or place your fabric to allow a 5 8 seam then trim seam allowance atter Raw or worn edges ot older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling NOTE Use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitehing Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 MS Top thread tension contro 3 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch p
14. position 2 ag df o 4 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch is the stretch variation of the straight stitch especialiy develop ed for knits and stretch fabrics This stitch can topstitching on all also be used for tabrics Stretch stitching was developed to be used on stretch fabrics and knits it can be used on other fabrics as well lt works well on curved seams and on any garments that will receive a great deal of strain lie children s clothes The stretch stitch does not actually stretch as it is being sewn but is stitched in a forward and back motion sometimes called a reverse action stitch so that it will give when the fabric stretches instead of breaking Zigzag Stitches s Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 ta 5 4 2 3 3 Tap thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange p N dl N 2 Streteh Stitch A Zigzag toot j The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine lt can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons buttonholes hem ming overcasting mending and darn ing It can also be used to decorate with trims appliques and cut out work or as a decorative stitch Here s How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch Consult the specific variations for detailed directi
15. your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog Another option buy a Carrying Case then your Kenmore goes anywhere can be stored any where Upper Thread Guide Take up Lever Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Needle Piate Thread Spool Pins Bobbin Winding Spindie Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Control Base Extension Table Accessory storage box Arm Cover Piate Hand Wheel Push Puil Clutch Stitch Sefector Stretch Stitch Adiuster Light and Power Switch Carrying Handie Needle Clamp Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Foot Snap on Button Presser Foot Lever Foot Control Plug Connector Nomenclature Piate Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needie set Darning plate Large screw driver Small screw driver Zipper toot Straight sutch foot Siiding buttonhole toot Buttonhole guide piate Base plate Buttonhole templates Lint brush Spooi pin felt Satin stitch toot Buttonhole toot e Power supply plug Power Power A supply switch Plug connector Machine plug _ n NOTE Before inserting the plug into your machine be sure the power switch is OFF Check your outiet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet Insert the machine plug into the thr
16. 13005 823803006 822804118 784805004 000009906 820832005 847803004 802424004 647808009 131402005 652802009 213502003 213501002 213504005 213505006 213506007 213503004 200002008 200003009 200005001 200013105 214872000 941620000 Part No Description 10 bobbins Spoo pin felt No 11 Stretch tabric needles BLU No 11 Single needies ORG No 14 Single needies RED No 16 Single needles PUR No 18 Single needles GRN Straight toot Zigzag toot Sliding buttonhole foot Zipper foot Satin stitch foot Needle threader Light bulb Large screw dnver Small screw driver Lint brush Buttonhole opener Oil Darning plate Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Template Hound end small Template Round end large Template Keyhole Buttonhole foot Piping toot Gathering toot Pin tucking foot Hernmer toot Walking toot Ruffler These items are not turnished with the machine but may be ordered per instructions above 61 A Accessory storage box 2 8 Appliguenng 0 0 sede eed Oo B Bar tacking EET 23 33 Base ato co LA ok a e 2 Base plate 2 4 48 60 61 Basic zigzag bad TERE EER Re Blindhemming _ 23 39 40 Bobbin 4 15 16 58 60 61 Bobbin holder eee 16 58 59 Bobbin thread sesse 18 19 Bobbin winding 2 2 15 Bobbin winding spindle sU oud
17. 2 Raund end buttonholes and keyhole 44 47 Chart buttonholes on p 14 Md 27 e Straight Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 ola ut Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control orange zone V dy Stretch Stitch B H Straight foot NOTE Best sewing results are obtained with the straight stitch foot but the zigzag foot will also provide acceptable results 28 Before sewing with the straight stitch foot always set the stitch width control to D to avoid breaking the needie 1 Raise the presser foot 2 Raise the needle to its highest position Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needie plate 5 8 is most common Qo 4 Draw the threads toward the back and lower the presser toot 5 Press the foot control 6 Hold the fabric loosely and gently guide it along the guide line so that it feeds naturally Do not force the fabric or try to pull it tight At the beginning and end of seam you may want to reverse to jock the stitch Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric Cut the threads Cornering guide The seam guides on the needle plate are engraved to help you measure seam width The lines are 1 8 apart with the 5 8 and 7 8 lines marked e Turn a Square Corner Cornering To turn a square corner 5 8 trom the
18. 8 NOTE illustrations of buttonhole on template show actual length of buttonhole to be sewn You will find the most suitable buttonhole length easily by matching the button with the proper illustration on the template Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 i 234 Pd Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 4 2 LEE uua e uw XN A eo A 2 Stratch Stitch Buttonhole toot Vas Helptul Hints You can obtain best results to use 60 80 light weight threads as bobbin thread NOTE It is advisable to use a blue stretch fabric needle when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics You can obtain buttonholes with a wider cutting space by setting the stitch width contro at 1 5 instead of 2 Top thread Round holes B Bobbin thread Base plate Rectangular hole Remove the extension table Raise the needie to its highest position Remove the foot holder Pull bobbin thread out about 3 straight back toward rear of machine insert hook of base plate into rectangular hole of needle plate Pull lever back to align the hook with the rectangular hole Snap base plate down to fit two pins A at the back of base plate into two round holes B on needie plate Release lever 45 46 Guide stot Guide block Base plate Top thread Gear Slot Starting point Bobbin thread When you have sele
19. The stitch selector contro determines the stitch you select Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator on the stitch indicator panel The bottom row of stitches is selected when the stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position NOTE To avoid needle or fabric damage be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when selecting a stitch Stitch patterns are color coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length control ZONES e Orange Straight Zigzag and Utility Stitches e Green Geometric Decorative Stitches e Blue Built in Buttonhole Making e Yellow Stretch Stitches The stitch width control regulates the width of the stitch you select The higher the number the wider the stitch Length 2 Iu 4 N 4 2 Stretch Stitch The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch and also has a stretch stitches setting The higher the number the longer the stitch O means no feed To select Stretch Stitches set this control at Stretch Stitch NOTE When you select decorative stitches green or built in buttonhole blue make sure that you do not set the stitch lengh control at Stretch Stitch Study the orange green yellow and blue sections around this control These are recommended zones of stitch length and color coded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel H
20. and fabric chart ee 14 Needle threading ane Ua ue tu MR 17 18 GO me Ee a VERA ae Overcastingstitch 36 Overcast stretch ss rs ie Es se 24 38 Overedging stitch 22 26 54 P Parts list is s 000000 80761 Performance problems 56757 Plug connector oso 8 8 Portable cass ji ceci Pos EX 2 Powerswitch si oes 3 5 Practical stitch chart EE T Pressure control dial seoor 6 Presser foot IE AA 3 10713 Presser foot ever oos 3 7 Push pullclutch ese ss esse ss 3 15 R Reverse stitch control 2 22 28 Rick rack stretch stitching 23 36 S Satin stitch foot 4 12 24 26 32 34 50 55 60 61 Sating stitching MEME di 26 32 Al re Vara Ed 28 Serging EE eee Serging or pine 2 leaf stretch spedita 24 38 Sewing light ante fit db Shell stitching te UN cu ue comes es DO Sliding buttonhole foot iw ode oia ME er 4 12 27 42 43 60 61 Small screw driver E Mn rr 4 607 61 Smocking propia Ee Snap on button 00 3 10 Spool pin felt 4 7 60 61 Spool pins 0 06600 cc ec ee 2 7 Stitch length control 2 21 Stitch selector ci s d 20 Stitch width control Seg tele aute 2 21 Straight stitching lt gt lt s 23 28 29 Straight stitch foot 2 6 2 ea MT Senge iso 4 11 23 28730 60 61 Straight stretch stitching 23 30 Stretch patching 25 51 Stretch stitch adjuster e BEER
21. at the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 12 3 D Stitch length controt 1 e_N UR N 0 4 H Top thread tension control 2 to 6 a Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot 40 Lace adds a fanciful feminine touch to blouses and lingerie Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 5 8 Place lace underneath and top stitch using stretch blind hem stitch Trim excess fabric close to stitching Buttonhole Making e Learning to Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes You may use the builtin system or you may use the snap in automatic buttonhole attachment system Choose the buttonhole style i Builtin bottonholes rectangular Choose this style for waistband cuffs belt slots or where you will need only one or two buttons 2 Round end buttonholes Template No 213504005 213505006 Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses blouses vests jackets or coats 3 Keyhole buttonholes Template No 213506007 Choose this style for tailored vests jackets coats or any time you need more room for button shank ME se Tips on buttonholing Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use Try the buttonhole with the button you will use Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed Tissue paper or regu
22. ccurately Uses Buttonhole making see page 42 12 Zipper Foot Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight Uses Zipper application see page 48 Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and Satin Stitch Foot F Satin stitch foot outlining applique Uses Satin stitch see page 32 Applique see page 33 Monogramming see page 34 Shell stitching see page 50 Geometric decorative stitching isee page 55 s Presser Foot Types fContinued Buttonhole Foot Buttonhole toot Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing Use this foot when making buttonholes with in your needle case you will find the following color coded needles buttonhole attachment system Blue 11 for stretch fabrics Uses Buttonhole making see page 44 Orange 11 for lightweight fabrics Red 114 tor medium or medium heavy weight fabrics Purple 16 tor medium heavy weight and decorative topstitching on these tabrics This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread Green 18 for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top stitching on these fabrics e Check Your Needle 1 Look tor barbed or blunt point 2 A damaged needie can cause permanent snags or runs in kni
23. cted the template with the size and style button 3 hole you need slide the template into the guide plate b Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button hole size you have chosen is at the setting mark Insert gear of base plate into slot of template and fit guide block into the center of the guide siot Attach the buttonhole toot Adjust position of gear so it is aligned with the starting point of template The lever can be used to change gear position Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel toward you while holding top thread Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of guide plate Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread NOTE Marked buttonhole Measurement markings Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment Placing your garment behind the machine insert it between the guide plate and the buttonhole foot as shown Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonhole foot Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the guide plate just in front of the buttonhole foot as shown Pierce the fabric with the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole If you want your buttonhole to be 1 2 inch from the garment edge line up the fabric with the 1 2 inch markings each time you start to sew a buttonhole d Lower the buttonhole foot Start sewing slowly Allow the machine to do the work by itself Do not t
24. dex NEEDLE Cire Tricot 14 Polyester Core Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per inch To Change Your Needle NOTE Raise the needle bar to its highest posi tion by turning the hand wheel toward YOU Loosen the needie clamp screw by turning it toward you Remove the needle by pulling it downward insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away trom you Push the needle up as far as it will go Tighten the needie clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from your accessory storage box 1 Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide it towards you 2 Set aside 3 Lift out the bobbin as shown NOTE The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted for the amount of thread needed on the bobbin example 1 2 full or full etc To make the adjustment use your large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less This will allow you to adiust the position of bobbin winder stopper Do not take screw all the wayout 8 9 10 11 e Wind the Bobbin es Clutch Put your spool of thread onto spool pin with the thread winding in the direction shown Bobbin winding spindle Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you winding the bobbin Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension dise as shown Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread co
25. df Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses 9 5 control orange 5 Helpful Hints 4 Start overcasting about 1 8 inside the raw corner of your seam If you start right at the edge the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in fini raw edges of any sewing project 36 shing e Rick Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 X 23i n Top thread tension control 2 to Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well e Three Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width controi 5 t Top thread tension 2 control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 2 Ea lif 0 4 Stretch Stitch HE C A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch You may use the three step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch It has more strength elasticity and is flatter than a regular zigzag The three step zigzag stitch is especial ly useful tor mending sewing patches smoothly and securely repairing straight tears
26. e correct size needle tor thread and fabric Reset needie Reset presser foot Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam incorrect thread tension Using two different sizes or kinds of thread Bent or blunt needie Loose presser foot Fabric too sheer or too soft When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4 and hold until a few stitches are formed Reset thread tension Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind Insert new needie Reset presser foot Use underlay of tissue paper PROBLEM Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread Breaking Bobbin Thread Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle Bent or blunt needle incorrect setting of needle Tight upper thread tension Starting to stitch too fast improper threading Tight upper thread tension Incorrect size needie Sharp eye in needie Nicks or burrs at hole of needie plate CORRECTION Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabric insert new needie Reset needie Loosen upper thread tension Start to stitch at a medium speed Rethread machine Loosen upper thread tension Choose correct size needle tor thread and tabric Insert new needle Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Improper bobbin threading Lint in bobbin holde
27. e tabric to the right Or left e Bar Tacking Top thread tension control 2 t0 6 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 23 4 Stitch length contro 0 5 to 1 GEES dj Y This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reintorce points of strain such as corners or pockets and straps on lingerie 4 Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot 33 e Monogramming Sat the Machine Stitch width control 5 i 23 4 B i Top thread tension controi 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 2 SS 3 U N 9 4 Li Stretch Stitch E F Satin stitch foot 34 Here s How Set the same as satin stitch Back the fabric with paper or interfacing Draw the letters on the fabric with tailors chaik Satin stitch adjusting the stitch width as necessary to form each pattern if using paper carefully remove it when you have finished sewing e Embroidery Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 to 5 123 G s Top thread tension Stitch length control control 2 to 8 9 Any number inot necessary to adjust No presser foot Stretch Stitch Darning plate Here s How T Put the darning plate on the needie plate see page 29 Remove foot holder see page 10 Adjust the stitch width as desired see page 21 Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor s chalk
28. ead appears on the underside of the Fabric Tension is too loose The top thread shows through the bottom ot the fabric The bottom side ot the stitch will feel bumpy The top thread is TOO Ughi Top side of tabric The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the fabric Tension is too tight The bobbin thread will come through the top of the fabric The top side of the stitch will teei bumpy 19 For Zigzag Stitch in the correct zigzag stitch the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side See below for the correct appearance To match this appearance adjust your top tension Top tension Top tension Todo Tight Too Loose Just Right Top side ot Fabric Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Just Right Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side ol Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight Corner of each The top thread zigzag will pull wii loop through together on the bottom side of top side of fabrics tabric and will be fabric without causing pulled almost excessive puckering or together causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side Results vary with fabric thread and sewing conditions 20 WON 33 52 29 311 DPE SEP DOOOOOOLOOOGOOODOBRODOODOSD BARBARA i Red indicator Stitch Selector
29. ee prong outlet as shown Ht will only fit one way Insert the power supply plug into the outlet Sewing light Power switch 4 Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light SAFETY FEATURE Your machine will not operate unless the light power switch is turned on If you are interrupted or stop sewing turn off the light power switch to prevent injury to children s Foot Control Use Foot control The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew To increase speed gently press down with the ball of your foot To decrease speed release your foot pres sure slightly NOTE The toot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs o Set the Pressure Dial Pressure control diat Setting mark UM The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate Set the dial alianing the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows doa avs most sewing 2 applique and Cut Out work 1 basting sewing chiffon lace organdy and other lightweight fabrics Also for velours and knits with more stretch NOTE The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure so the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use it Spool pin felt RR Spool pin The spool pins are
30. ets and waistlines on ready made or home made garments to avoid fabric bunching around the needie Stitching sleeves waistbands pant legs Darning socks or mending knees elbows Sewing buttons on sleeves waistbands or any circular garment area or areas of wear in children s clothes etc e Check Your Presser Foot The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively Your presser foot is heid in place by a Foot Holder Each presser foot merely snaps on the foot holder which is seldom removed if you need to remove or attach the foot holder here is what you do To Attach To Remove Presser bar To Attach Turn the screw toward the back of 1 Match the hole in the foot the machine Use the large screw holder with the threaded hole in driver the presser bar To Remove 2 Fit the foot holder screw into the hole 3 Tighten the screw by turning it toward you 10 e Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser toot for the stitch you wish to sew Consult the Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions tor sewing with the various presser feet To Snap Off Snap on button QU To Snap Off the Presser Foot 1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you 2 Raise the presser foot 3 Press the snap on button on the back of the foo
31. fabric edge 1 Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning hand wheel toward you when the tabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guide as shown 2 Raise the presser foot and turn the tabric to line the edge with the 5 8 seam guide 3 Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction e Use the Darning Plate S Sometimes when you sew you want to control the fabric yourself The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric To Put on the Darning Plate NOTE The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the needie plate in the darning plate these holes are slightly to the right of center 1 Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom 2 Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes at the 5 8 mark The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes Use the darning plate in the following ways Darning see page 30 Button Sewing see page 35 sa Topstitching Set the Machine Stiteh width control 0 12 3j Top thread tension Stitch length controf 2 to 6 control orange zone i Stretch Stitch o g Y pon Hi Straight toot The Stitch and lts Uses Topstitchina emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams and edges flat and crisp Accent suits or blouses with one or two rows ot topstitching around the outer edges ot cuffs lapels or collars
32. i j Smocking stretch N AR Rickrack stretch in stretch stitch sewing the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a neutral position between and or position When sewing some fabrics you may need to adjust this contro to balance the stitches for appearance sake lf design seems open like the illustrations to the left adjust the control slightly toward until design looks like the center design H the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations turn the control toward until stitching is as you desire 21 Reverse To reverse stitch hoid down this con trol during sewing Release to sew forward again 22 Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided tor the machine you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to tollow each time you sit down to sew 1 m inspect the needle it should be straight properly set and sharp on the point H should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently Many of the new tabrics made ot synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers Before placing the material on the machine see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine Hold on to threads during the sewing of the fir
33. ib Box stitching i 25 53 Buttonhole DESERTE RS ai T Buttonhole attachment 27 41 44 Buttonhole foot 4 13 27 44 45 Buttonhole guide plate 4 27 44 60 61 Buttonhole making 41747 Buttonhole opener 4 43 60 61 Buttonhole template 4 27 44 60 61 Button sewing xd dg C Cabinet albo OER Ed Changing needle lug Sailing EE Beemer hoe Ohad 14 Changing presser foot 170 71 Cleaning hook race and feed dogs 59 Cornering guide 28 D Darning seer 23 29 31 Darning plate 4 29 31 34735 60 61 Decorative geometric patterns 26 55 E Elastic stretch 25 53 Embroidery 0 0 00 ioo sss 23 34 Extension table 5 2 8 62 INDEX F Fabric needle thread and stitch length Chart e oe og Toe E ER ES ES 14 Facecoverplate 2 6 58 59 ig ti AE AE ne 25 52 Feed dogs 88 Foot control ss ses er ee 3 8 Free arm SeWing o 8 9 H Hand wheel 3 18 Herring bone stretch 26 52 Hook race cc ee eee es B8 L Lace worn c t lu nu Bod Lo ee 40 Large screw driver 4 60761 Light and power switch 3 5 Lightbulb B7 60 61 Lint brush eee 4 BB 61 M Monogramming 23 34 N Needle _ 13714 60 61 Needle clamp lt 4 14 Needle plate 000 2 16 Needie thread
34. ic Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 7 23 o Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control green zone e_N Here s How Mt N 1 Adiust the stitch width and length as 0 4 you desire J Practice the stitch on a scrap ot fabric F Satin stitch 5 toot Stretch Stitch 3 Mark the lines for decoration on the fabrie using a washable fabric marker The Stitches and Their Uses 4 Lower the needie at the starting point These stitches are purely decorative 5 Lower the presser foot You can sew one row or several or vary the stitch width and length for special effects 6 Gently guide the fabric along the maked line Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see what special effects are possible 55 PROBLEM Irregular Stitches Breaking Needie 56 Bunching of Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needie Improper threading Loose upper thread tension Pulling fabric Loose presser foot Unevenly wound bobbin Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate CORRECTION Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabric Rethread machine Tighten upper thread tension Do not pull fabric guide it gently Reset presser foot Rewind bobbin Replace needle plate or polish off burrs completely Pulling fabric incorrect size needle Incorrect setting of needie Loose presser foot Puckering Do not pull fabric guide it gently Choos
35. ing oiling etc This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store Please remember if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance The model number and serial number are located on the nomenciature plate as identified on Page 4 of this booklet Model No 385 Serial No Retain these numbers for future reference LI THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE SECTION 1 SECTION 2 SECTION 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable case or Cabinet is Available 2 Locate and Identify the parts Pa Identify the Accessories EE PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine aa i bre e Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power 5 a Foot Control Use oloo sire 5 e Setthe Pressure Dial AE SERP a e Setting Spool Pins 2 2 222 ee 7 e Adjust the Presser Foot Lever MEE e Accessory Storage Box 2 0 2 02 eee B a Free Arm Sewing the Removal Extension Table 8 8 Know What the Presser Feet Will Do 10713 e Check Your Presser Foot 18 e
36. lar interfacing can be used Tear paper away after stitching if it is used For heavier weight fabrics loosen your top thread tension slightly 41 e Built in System Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Blue zonel 12 3 aq Stitch length control Blue zone eo ER di ul gg PER ai MEE ag NI Te a Pa Top thread tension control 2 io 6 Stretch Stitch Sliding buttonhole foot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitth length dial 1 For less density turn the dial toward 1 2 For more density turn the dial toward O NOTE Always make a practice but tonhole on a scrap fabric you plan to use to find the more suitable stitch length 42 t a Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment b Change to the sliding buttonhole foot c insert the garment under the toot with the buttonhole mark ing running toward you Coarse sutches tor heavy fabrics Fine fi 2 stitches lor light il Uff N fabrics Stretch Stitch 2 a Move the slider A toward you so that the top mark C on the slider meets the start mark B b Line up the markings on the foot with the top mark on your garment c Lower the presser toot NOTE The markings on the slider are engra
37. mes out on top Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks Holding onto end of thread depress the foot control When the bobbin is slightly filled stop the machine and clip the thread coming from the bobbin Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and clip the thread Remove the bobbin Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation 15 1 Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2 Pull about 4 inches of thread 3 Then pull the thread clockwise 4 holder so that the thread feeds toward you through the tension toward the back ot the machine counter clockwise left slot 3 through the slot 3 Threading chart is located behind the face cover plate Threading chart 16 Slide the bobbin cover plate while pushing it down slightly over the bobbin Allow about 4 inches of thread to shaw above the needle plate e Thread Your Needle aw L em SA ti HEIR ge ft a EV ah e nn ya O e Se aa dp st n rum r3 8 The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then ts pulled tight Raise take up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you Raise presser foot lever Place spool on spool pin as shown with thread coming from the back of the spool 1 2
38. move 5 Take out the bobbin Lift up the the presser foot and needle Remove the bobbin cover plate Remove the screw on the lett side ot the needle with the large screw driver Remove the needle plate Use the lint brush to clean the feed dogs hook race and bobbin holder Also use a soft dry cloth Open face cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year One or two drops of oil is sufficient Remove excess oil otherwise it may stain fabrics bobbin holder and remove it In case machine is not used for an extended time oil it before sewing Lise good quality sewing machine oil No other oiling is required Above points are only area which require oiling on this machine Red marks 7 Line up the red marks and place the bobbin holder so the knob fits next to the stopper in the hook race as shown above 59 PARTS LIST AE All paris listed herein may be ordered irom any Sears Roebuck and Co store or service center WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM amp COR e if the parts you need are not stocked locally your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center tor expedited handling 102869107 102403202 813404013 647814020 647814031 647814042 647814053 652806014 685502019 8258
39. ng machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth Never drop or insert any object into any opening Do not use outdoors Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered To disconnect turn all controls to the off 1 O position then remove piug from outlet Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle Always use the proper needle piate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break Do not use bent needles Do not pull or push fabric while stitching it may deflect the needle causing it to break Switch the sewing machine off O when making any adjustment in the needle area such as threading needle changing needle threading bobbin or changing presser foot and the like Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS SEARS ROEBUCK AND CO Dear Customer You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine Before using your new Kenmore machine please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine Specific instructions are given on threading tension adjustments clean
40. ons Satin Stitch page 32 Applique Work page 33 Bar Tacking page 33 Monogramming page 34 Embroidery page 34 Button Sewing page 35 Overcasting page 36 31 e Satin Stitch Sat the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 12 3 H 92 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 EER dj 4 Stretch Stitch F Satin stitch foot A Pressure dial 7 or 2 The Stitch and Hs Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge for ex ample blankets linens tablecloths and napkins The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique 32 Zigzag width Snitch length 1 2 3 s i e Close to 0 Here s How Once your machine is set up to stitch you may want to experiment on a fragment ot the fabric you are pianning to use Too tight satin stitch may pucker some fight weight tabrics e Applique Set the Machina Stitch width contra 2 to 5 eO d oy Top thread tension control 2 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to a a N cA Stretch Stitch F Sarp stitch toot Pressure dial 2 Baste for tuse with tron on fabric joiner applique pieces on the fabric Stitch around the applique making sure the needle talis along the outer edge of the applique When sewing corners lower the needie down into the fabric Raise the presser foot and pivot th
41. osition Stretch Stiteh A Zigzag toot el The Stitch and its Uses Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat it is ideal tor 1 4 seams on knits or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam it ts also great tor making elastic swim wear Here s How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made over the edge NOTE When using stretch knit fabric use a blue stretch tabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches Blind Hemming Set the Machine Stitch width i 23 control 2 to 3 3 SR 6 5 SAT Light Weight Fabric Top thread tension control 2 10 6 Stitch length contral orange zone GEES UT 4 1 Finish the raw edge ot your hem any way you desire See overcrasting page 36 Stretch Stitch 2 Measure turn up your hem and pin NOTE Forlight weight fabrics you may need a double fold A Zigzag foot 3 Fold the material bottom side out on the edge to be stitched as shown leaving 1 4 of the finished hem edge showing 4 Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment 5 After hemming press both sides of the finished hem The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches 39 S
42. que 000000 33 Bar Taking o 050 pie ee e pi 33 e Monogramming Li GITE DEL ga ud Li gelo Se ON 34 e Embroidery Lane QUEE er i 34 e SewaButton EE RP PERENNE 35 e Overcasting Stitch 38 Rick Rack Stretch 0 36 e Three Step Zigzag o ooa oasen anran 37 e Overcast Stretch Stitching ARE ee 98 e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching 38 Blind Hemming LO A EDE N E ET 39 Lace Work EIE tei deu deutet s AO Buttonhole Making 00 000 44 47 e Learning to Sew Buttonholes 0 41 e Buitan System o iii 2 42743 e Using Buttonhole Attachment ani 447 47 Sew ina Zipper ee ee se ABMS Shell Stitching 0 ice BO Two Point Shell Stitching 0 2 BO SMOCKING svi ocu un Tea 51 Stretch Patching ss ee cece ee ees B2 Fagoting Stitch dal Cda ak S ME ae ale ob 52 Herring Bone Stretch 2 2 2 ee 52 Elastic Stretch Stitch 0 ee ee BI Box Stiiching lt so oo ee DES EED lea a BB Two point Box Stitch Pr 54 Overedging Stitch 0 B4 Decorate with Geometric Patterns i B5 PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART When to Do When see ke ee 56757 CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replace the Light Bulb tai BB Clean the Babbin Holder EER Ae ctus 58 Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs WIDE AE ASG Oiling the Machine o ss os se ole meee D bain ee tee ey MATO EE EE N 60 61 A tull line of sewing cabinets is available at
43. r or hook race Darning piste in place Stitch Length set at 0 Thread knotted under tabric Push pull clutch is disengaged Thread caught in hook race Lint in bobbin holder or hook race Check bobbin threading Clean bobbin holder and hook race Remove darning plate Adiust Stitch Length Control Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch Push in the clutch Disassemble and clean hook race Clean bobbin holder and hook race 57 N 1 Unplug the machine and open the face cover CAUTION The light bulb will be HOT Protect your fingers when you handle it 2 Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter clockwise to remove it 3 Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise 58 To insure that your machine operates at its best you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times The bobbin area can attract dust and lint Your machine can become siuggish or knock loudiy if a thread is caught S D z N Q Bobbin cover plate Follow these directions 4 Brush or vacuum the dust and lint 6 Slide on the bobbin cover plate by Turn off the power or unplug the out of the bobbin holder pushing it into the grooves machine 5 Replace the bobbin 2 Remove the bobbin cover plate by firmly pulling it toward you Remove the bobbin lean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Unplug the machine and re
44. ry to guide the fabric Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins To release the buttonhole base plate pull the lever toward you and lift the base plate off the machine Adiusting the stitch density You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length control from 4 to 3 Fine stitches tor light tabrics Stitch length control 4 1 WV x Coarse stitches for heavy fabrics Stratch Stitch 47 Fabric Preparation Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening Use the reverse to lock the stitches Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at 4 and top thread tension at ed End of opening Top side ot fabric Set the Machine Stitch width control O 12 Kk 0 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length B control 2 BH Z 4 rs EE lf NI EI 6 4 Stretch Stitch EAT JE ali E Zipper toot The pin on the _ lett hand side To attach the zipper foot e To sewon the left side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper foot To sew on the right side of the zipper attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot Zipper teeth Zipper tape To Sew 1 Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6 Fold back the left seam allowance as shown
45. st 3 or 4 stitches of the seam Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use The fabric should be double thickness Adjust the machine for the length ot stitch and tension suitable to your fabric Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge ot the material placed on the 5 8 seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam Run the machine at a slow even speed The more pressure you put on the foot control the faster the machine wiH sew Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered When turning the hand wheel manually always turn it toward you Practical Stitch Chart STRAIGHT i t i t i f i i i STRAIGHT STRETCH Straight Darning plate ZIGZAG RICK RACK STRETCH 3 BLIND HEM STITCH 1 Check Stitch Thread Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach Needle Length 2 6 Orange Zone Stitch Width Uses Regular searms zippers topstitching darning etc Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Orange Zone 28 30
46. t holder The presser foot will drop off To Snap On To Snap On the Presser Foot 1 Place the presser foot so the hori zontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder Lower the presser foot holder to lock the presser foot in place NOTE If you do not hear the presser foot snap in place press down on the presser foot holder firmly until you hear the snap e Presser Foot Types Zigzag Foot Use this foot for both straight and zigzag A Zigzag foot stitching Uses Zigzag stitching see page 31 Bar tacking see page 33 Button sewing see page 35 Rick rack stretch see page 36 Three step zigzag see page 37 Overcast stretch see page 38 Lace work see page 40 Two point shell stitching see page 50 Smocking see page 51 Stretch patching see page 51 Fagoting see page 52 Herring bone stretch see page 52 Elastic stretch see page 53 Box stitching isee page 53 Two point box stitch see page 54 Overedging stitch tsee page 54 H Straight foot m J Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only Uses Straight stitching isee page 28 Topstitching see page 29 Straight stretch see page 30 11 Presser Foot Types Continued Slidina Buttonhole Foot Sliding buttonhoie foot Z Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system lt is marked to measure your buttonholes a
47. thering stitches NOTE Loosen the top thread tension to make gathering easier apart Stretch Patching Top thread tension control 2 to 6 IE Cerir 3 A Zigzag foot Set the Machine Stitch es contro Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position AE Nf SN 4 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and its Uses For patching wom out sibows or knees 51 Set the Machine Stitch width controi 5 123 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 0 5 to 2 EE 3 l EP a x 2 Stretch Stitch 3 A Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest 52 Here s How Fold under each fabric edge 5 8 and press Pin the two edges to paper or tear away backing 1 8 apart Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needle catches the folded edge on each side Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 12 3 o 5 Top thread tension contro 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position ZR l G 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot The Stitch and Its Uses Use as hemming stitch for blankets tablecloth and draperies Here s How Place the fabric top side up and sew 3 8 from the edge Trim close to stitching The stitch will prevent raveling Top
48. thread tension control 3 to 6 A Zigzag toot S Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 7 NG Stitch length contrat yellow stretch stitch position GEE li 7X a Stretch Stitch Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments 1 Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front center back and side seams 2 Place the middle ot the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place making sure the elastic is evenly distri buted Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Vs i A Zigzag foot Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 i 2 3 g Stitch length control orange zone ZR M e a Stretch Stitch Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them 53 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 123 0 Li Tap thread tension control 3 ta 8 Stitch length contro orange zone 2 ID ZEE This stitch is useful for elastic fabrics Lf to join them together 0 4 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot 54 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 z 2 4 5 Top thread tension control 3 t08 Stitch length controi orange zone M 6 Stretch Stitch A Zigzag toot m This stitch can be used for a over edging stitch Decorate with Geometr
49. ts fine silks and silk like fabrics Always buy a good quality thread It should resist tangling and be strong smooth and consistent in thickness 13 o Fabric Needle Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR FABRIC Lightweight Batiste Dimity Chiffon Silks Fine Lace Organza Crepe Taffeta Voile Organdy 11 ORANGE Medium Weight Cotton Cotton Blends Percale Gingham Shantung Pique Seersucker Satin Knits Vinyl Suitings Linen Woo Crepe Leather THREAD SIZE Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A 50 Mercerized Cotton Poiyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A i Medium Heavy Weight Corduroy Denim Wool Sailcloth Wool Fiannel IEEE Gabardine Velvets Leather or 16 PUHPLE 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy Duty Potyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A Heavy Weight Coatings Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Twills Canvas 18 GREEN Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core Cotton Wrap Silk A 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN Decorative top stitching on all types ot fabric Buttonhole Twist Use as top thread only RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGIH SETTING 2 12 stitches per inch 2 2 5 10 12 stitches per inch 2 3 B 10 stitches per inch 3 8 stitches per inch 3 4 6 8 stitches per inch Stretch Fabric Polyester Double Knits EE Nylon Tricot Jersey FABRIC Stretch Terry Span
50. used for holding the spools of thread in order to feed thread to the machine To use pull up the spool pins Place the spool felt on the pins Push down for storage Normai up position High position Normat up position Presser toot lever The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot You can raise it about 1 4 higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot s Thread Cutter You don t need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing Just use the handy thread cutter The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam e Accessory Storage Box The lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward you Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box o Free Arm Sewing the Removable Extension Table To remove To Remove the Extension Table for tree arm sewing 1 Grip the table with your index finger and thumb as shown 2 Pull gently toward you The extension table will snap out To Attach Extension table To Attach the Extension Tabie for fiat bed sewing i Fitthe tabs into the slot as shown 2 With your thumb and index finger gently snap in Y our sewing machine can do free arm sewing This feature makes sewing easy for Xx Bar tacking to reintorce pockets plack
51. ved in centimeters 3 a Set the stitch selector at b Sew forward until you reach the tront marking of your button hole c Stop sewing at the lett stitch 4 a Set the stitch selector at b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the right stitch NOTE When sewing at the edge of fabric set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated 4 and sew in reverse EEE L 5 a b Set the stitch selector at Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole Stop sewing at the right stitch 6 a Set the stitch selector at i b Sew 4 to 6 stitches c Stop sewing at the lett stitch Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener in your accessory storage box 43 e Using Buttonhole Attachment Buttonhole Attachment System For more varied and accurate buttonholes you will enjoy using the button hole attachment and templates Know the parts read carefully how to set up your machine properly You will need these items for the buttonhole attachment system Guide siot 7 Measurement marking Catch Buttonhole guide plate Guide block Buttonhole templates Base plate Buttonhole foot 44 Buttonhole Style and Size Round End sy Keyhole Buttonhole i Buttonhole UN Template 213504005 213505006 213506007 3 8 1 2 15 16 1 1 16 7 8 1 1 16 Sizes 5 8 13 16 1 1 4 1 1 2 1 1 4 1 3
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